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Source Description

These medallions, which have loops on the backs, must have originally been sewn onto a garment or, more likely, a woman’s headpiece. In spite of the modern chain to which they are now attached, the medallions are unique items of feminine apparel from around 1400. Such items would have been well known at the courts of the Valois in Paris, Bourges, and Dijon. The central medallion with a “white lady” is enameled “in the round”––a new Parisian technique for enameling irregular or three-dimensional surfaces. Such white lady medallions are described in inventories of the period

Scholar Source Context

Document identity
localId
125586
label
Twelve Medallions Mounted as a Necklace
core
obj
dtoType
object
pageCount
1
Source metadata
id
125586
contentType
object
title
Twelve Medallions Mounted as a Necklace
description
These medallions, which have loops on the backs, must have originally been sewn onto a garment or, more likely, a woman’s headpiece. In spite of the modern chain to which they are now attached, the medallions are unique items of feminine apparel from around 1400. Such items would have been well known at the courts of the Valois in Paris, Bourges, and Dijon. The central medallion with a “white lady” is enameled “in the round”––a new Parisian technique for enameling irregular or three-dimensional surfaces. Such white lady medallions are described in inventories of the period
date
c. 1400
rights
CC0
rightsUri
CC0
language
en
wikidata
Q60749590
genreSpecific
Jewelry
imageCount
1
source
import
dimensionsRaw
Diameter: 4.5 x 1.6 cm (1 3/4 x 5/8 in.); Part 1: 70.9 cm (27 15/16 in.)
cul
France, Paris
accession
1947.507
Source extras
tec
enameled gold, precious stones, and pearls; some later additions with modern chain
tombstone
Twelve Medallions Mounted as a Necklace, c. 1400. France, Paris. Enameled gold, precious stones, and pearls; some later additions with modern chain; diameter: 4.5 x 1.6 cm (1 3/4 x 5/8 in.); part 1: 70.9 cm (27 15/16 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund, 1947.507
collection
MED - Gothic
formerAccessionNumbers
2313.1947
citations
citation
Taburet-Delahaye, Élisabeth. "Parures et bijoux de la reine Isabeau de Bavière." Bulletin de la Société Nationale des Antiquaires de France (Année 2008, 2002): 242–269.
citation
Detroit Institute of Arts.<em> The Seventh Loan Exhibition; French Gothic Art of the 13th to 15th Century. Nov. 16 to Dec. 5, 1928. </em>[Detroit]: Institute of Arts, 1928.
page_number
no. 75
citation
<em>La Perle </em>(September 10, 1928).
citation
<em>Art News </em>(December 1, 1928).
page_number
p. 18
citation
The Brummer Gallery Records. Cloisters (Museum), n.d.
page_number
P13127
citation
Milliken, William M. "Exhibition of Gold." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 34, no. 9 (1947).
page_number
p. 228
citation
Milliken, William M. "The Art of the Goldsmith." <em>The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism</em> 6, no. 4 (1948).
page_number
p. 321, fig. 6
citation
Steingräber, Erich and Theodor Müller. "Die Französische Goldemailplastik um 1400" <em>Münchner Jahrbuch der bildenen Kunst</em> V (1954).
page_number
p. 76, no. 26, fig. 66
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>The Cleveland Museum of Art Handbook.</em> Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1958.
page_number
Mentioned and Reproduced: cat. no. 177
citation
Milliken, William M. "Early Byzantine Silver." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 45, no. 3 (1958)
page_number
p. 57
citation
Detroit Institute of Arts, and Stedelijk Museum van Schoone Kunsten (Bruges). <em>Le siecle des primitifs flamands: exposition organisee par L'Administration communale de Bruges et The Detroit Institute of arts, Detroit, Michigan, USA, au Musee communal des beaux-arts (Musee Groeninge) 26 Juin-11 septembre 1960.</em> Bruges: Presses Saint-Augustin, 1960.
page_number
no. 113
citation
Detroit Institute of Arts.<em> Flanders in the Fifteenth Century: Art and Civilization. Catalogue of the Exhibition Masterpieces of Flemish Art: Van Eyck to Bosch. </em>1960.
page_number
no. 9
citation
Century 21 Exposition, and William Mathewson Milliken. <em>Masterpieces of Art: Fine Arts Pavilion, April 21 to September 4, 1962</em> : Catalogue : Seattle World's Fair, April 21 to October 21, 1962. [Seattle, Wash.]: Century 21 Expositions, 1962.
page_number
pp. 32-3, no. 9
citation
Walters Art Gallery (Baltimore, Md.). <em>The International Style: The Arts in Europe Around 1400;</em> [Exhibition]: October 23-December 2, 1962, / B. [Baltimore, Md.]: Walters Art Gallery, 1962.
page_number
no. 127
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1966</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1966.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 62
citation
Wixom, William D. <em>Treasures from Medieval France. </em>[Cleveland]: Cleveland Museum of Art, 1967.
page_number
pp. 252-3, 376, cat. no. VI-19
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1969</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1969.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 62
citation
Angéla Héjj-Détári, "Rekonstruktion der gotischen Prunkette einer ungarischen königen" <em>Actes du XXII° Congès international d'Histoire de l'Art</em>, vol. II (Budapest, 1969).
page_number
p. 644, fig. 6
citation
Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.). <em>The Secular Spirit: Life and Art at the End of the Middle Ages. </em>New York: Dutton, 1975.
page_number
p. 88, cat. 95
citation
De Winter, Patrick M. <em>The Patronage of Philippe Le Hardi, Duke of Burgundy, 1364-1404</em>. 1976.
page_number
p. 978, no. 101
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1978</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1978.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 70
citation
Prevenier, Walter, Willem Pieter Blockmans, <em>An Blockmans-Delva, and Richard Vaughan.</em> The Burgundian Netherlands. Antwerp: Fonds Mercator, 1985.
page_number
pp. 90-1, no. 77
citation
De Winter, Patrick M. L<em>a bibliothèque de Philippe le Hardi, duc de Bourgogne (1364-1404): étude sur les manuscrits à peintures d'une collection princière à l'époque du "style gothique international". </em>Paris: Editions du Centre national de la recherche scientifique, 1985.
page_number
p. 97, 107, fig. 191
citation
Giusti, Paola, "Smaltri per le Corti," <em>Casa Vogue Antiques</em>, no. 3 (March 1989).
page_number
p. 66
citation
Evans, Joan. <em>A History of Jewellery</em>, 1100-1870. New York: Dover, 1989.
page_number
p. 79, pl. 33a
citation
Lightbown, R. W.<em> Mediaeval European Jewellery: With a Catalogue of the Collection in the Victoria &amp; Albert Museum. </em>[London]: Published by the Victoria &amp; Albert Museum, 1992.
page_number
p. 169, fig. 82
citation
Stanbury, Sarah. <em>Pearl</em>. Kalamazoo, Mich: Published for TEAMS by Medieval Institute Publications, 2001.
page_number
p. viii
citation
Fliegel, Stephen N., Sophie Jugie, and Virginie Barthélémy. <em>Art from the Court of Burgundy: The Patronage of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless 1364-1419 : </em>Musée Des Beaux-Arts De Dijon, May 28-September 15, 2004, the Cleveland Museum of Art, October 24, 2004-January 9, 2005. [Dijon]: Musée des beaux-arts, 2004.
page_number
p. 48, Cat. no. 13
citation
Musée du Louvre. <em>Paris, 1400: les arts sous Charles VI. </em>[Paris]: Fayard, 2004.
page_number
p. 164, no. 86
citation
"Gothic Art 1360-1440." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 50, no. 7 (1963).
page_number
no. 35, p. 175
citation
Fliegel, Stephen. "Patronage and the Burgundian Court, 1364-1419" <em>The Magazine Antiques</em> (October 2004).
page_number
p. 145, pls. V-Va
citation
Taburet-Delahaye, Elisabeth. "L'eclat nouveau de l'orfevrerie," Dossier de l'Art, 107 (June 2004).
page_number
p. 34-5
citation
Fliegel, Stephen N., "Piety and Power", Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Cleveland Art: The Cleveland Museum of Art Members Magazine</em>. Vol. 44 no. 08, October 2004
page_number
Mentioned & reproduced: 4-5
citation
Stuard, Susan Mosher. <em>Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy</em>. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2006.
page_number
plate 7
citation
Eikelmann, Renate, Holger A. Klein, Stephen N. Fliegel, and Virginia Brilliant.<em> The Cleveland Museum of Art: Meisterwerke von 300 bis 1550.</em> München: Hirmer, 2007.
page_number
pp. 200-01, no. 73
citation
Cleveland Museum of Art, and Holger A. Klein.<em> Sacred Gifts and Worldly Treasures: Medieval Masterworks from the Cleveland Museum of Art.</em> Cleveland, Ohio: Cleveland Museum of Art, 2007.
page_number
p. 210, cat. no. 76
creditline
Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund
updatedAt
2026-06-18 18:32:46.282000
sourceId
125586
dept
Medieval Art
coll
MED - Gothic
med
enameled gold, precious stones, and pearls; some later additions with modern chain
thumbnail_url
image_url
Single page context
seq
1
pageIndex
0
type
photo
mediaId
c08712a0844ae633