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Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.
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- 1
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- Type
- photo
- Media ID
- 916faf753c977b29
- Size
- unknown
Document data
- ID
- 95709
- Core
- obj
- Type
- object
DTO data
{
"id": "95709",
"contentType": "object",
"title": "Man's surcoat (khalat)",
"description": "Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.",
"date": "late 1800s",
"citation": "https://clevelandart.org/art/1916.1412",
"rights": "CC0",
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"largeImageUrl": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1916.1412/1916.1412_web.jpg",
"imageCount": 1,
"source": "import",
"dimensionsRaw": "Overall: 150 x 218.4 cm (59 1/16 x 86 in.)",
"cul": [
"Uzbekistan, Shahr-i Sabz"
],
"accession": "1916.1412"
}
Context sent to Scholar
Document identity
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"localId": "95709",
"label": "Man's surcoat (khalat)",
"core": "obj",
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Document source metadata
{
"id": "95709",
"contentType": "object",
"title": "Man's surcoat (khalat)",
"description": "Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.",
"date": "late 1800s",
"citation": "https://clevelandart.org/art/1916.1412",
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"largeImageUrl": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1916.1412/1916.1412_web.jpg",
"imageCount": 1,
"source": "import",
"dimensionsRaw": "Overall: 150 x 218.4 cm (59 1/16 x 86 in.)",
"cul": [
"Uzbekistan, Shahr-i Sabz"
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}
Document source extras
{
"tec": "Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch",
"tombstone": "Man's surcoat (khalat), late 1800s. Uzbekistan, Shahr-i Sabz. Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch; overall: 150 x 218.4 cm (59 1/16 x 86 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Wade, 1916.1412",
"collection": "T - Islamic",
"citations": [
{
"citation": "Thomson, Nancy. <em>The Heritage of Islam: Notes</em>. London: PCET, 1982.",
"page_number": "no. 224, p. 55"
},
{
"citation": "Mackie, Louise. \"Embroidered Surcoat.\" <em>Cleveland Museum of Art Members Magazine,</em> 54 no. 1 (January/February 2014): 27.",
"page_number": "Mentioned and Reproduced: p. 27",
"url": "https://archive.org/details/CMAMM2014-01/page/n25/mode/2up"
},
{
"citation": "Mackie, Louise W. Symbols of Power: <em>Luxury Textiles from Islamic Lands, 7th-21st Century</em>. Cleveland, OH; New Haven, CT: The Cleveland Museum of Art; Yale University Press, 2015.",
"page_number": "Mentioned: p. 400; Reproduced: fig. 9.61, p. 401"
},
{
"citation": "Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Museum Masters: 2016-17 Companion Guide.</em> [Cleveland, Ohio]: Cleveland Museum of Art, 2016.",
"page_number": "Mentioned and Reproduced: P. 29"
}
],
"url": "https://clevelandart.org/art/1916.1412",
"creditline": "Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Wade",
"updatedAt": "2026-05-29 05:08:37.541000",
"imageUrl": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1916.1412/1916.1412_print.jpg",
"sourceId": 95709,
"dept": "Textiles",
"coll": "T - Islamic",
"med": "Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch",
"thumbnail_url": null,
"image_url": null
}
Page context
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