Ask the Scholar

In the 18th century, the allure of diamonds crossed cultures, and when worn, they were an immediately recognizable statement of personal worth. The cut of diamond that became most popular over the course of the 18th century was the brilliant-cut, which particularly enhanced the sparkle of stones that were often worn in greatest abundance at night, under flickering candlelight. From the 1720s, more diamonds than ever came to Europe. The international network of traders and skilled diamond cutters that had long linked Lisbon, Amsterdam, and London with India and Persia expanded to include Brazil, where new mines were opened. This ring has an openwork cluster bezel with foliate scrolls set with diamonds centered on a tourmaline.