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Originally Processed With FOIA(s): FOIA Number: S; 2004-0731-F S FOIA MARKER This is not a textual record. This is used as an administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential Library Staff. Record Group/Collection: George H.W. Bush Presidential Records Collection/Office of Origin: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File Backup Files Subseries: Chron File, 1989-1993 OA/ID Number: 13742 Folder ID Number: 13742-008 Folder Title: Chile/Toast 12/6/90 [OA 8320] [2] Stack: Row: Section: Shelf: Position: G 26 21 2 2 To Peggy Date 11-20.90 Time 3:50 WHILE YOU WERE OUT M Her burger I of Phone I Area Code Number Extension TELEPHONED EASE CALL CALLED TO SEE YOU WILL CALL AGAIN WANTS TO SEE YOU URGENT RETURNED YOUR CALL Message NASA verfied with Johnson Spacr Cent. that Copyer is used in the wiring in the Shuttle SS tis SOM Operator St to AMPAD EFFICIENCY EXV any 23-023 23 CARBONLESS 2.9921 Osborne Day 466 - 6789 Executive Exch. SUC, Peace Corps for retired exec's — to 3rd W countries SENT BY:Xerox Telecopier 7020 11-20-90 ; 4:58PM ; OPIC WASH DC-> 2024566218;# 1 OPIC Overseas Private Investment Corporation 1615 M Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20527 (202) 457-7200 FAX (202) 331-4234 FAX 456-6218 November 20, 1990 TO: Ms. Peggy Dooley The White House FROM: DAVID ROBB CRALLÉ', CORPORATE AFFAIRS OVERSEAS PRIVATE INVESTMENT CORPORATION Return Tel: 202/457-8212 Return Fax: 202/223-3514 PAGES: FOUR TOTAL MESSAGE: ATTACHED ARE TALKING POINTS FOR THE PRESIDENT'S SPEECHES IN CHILE. RETURN FAX: 202/223-3514 SENT BY:Xerox Telecopier 7020 11-20-90 ; 4:58PM ; OPIC WASH DC-> 2024566218;# 2 OPIC talking points for the President's speeches in Chile. --OPIC has recently resumed offering political risk investment insurance, loans and loan guaranties in Chile after a hiatus of several years. OPIC has begun issuing coverage for private American investment in Chile and anticipates a high level of activity. --The President has asked OPIC to mobilize its resources to design a financial product for private investment throughout Latin America. Such a product could be similar to other OPIC capital funds, such as the Africa Growth Fund, East European Growth Fund and the Environmental Fund. --Consistent with President Bush's Enterprise for the Americas Initiative, emphasizing hemispheric integration through commerce, debt reduction and private investment, OPIC will bring an mission of private American investors to Chile in May 1991. --The investment mission is designed to introduce private American investors to specific investment opportunities in Chile. It is also an active show of U.S. support for the contribution that private investment has made to the Chilean economy. --In preparation for the investment mission, OPIC will send an Investment Missions Officer for a reconnaissance visit to Chile for a ten-day visit December 10-20. --OPIC will also take an investment mission to Argentina, March 3-9, 1991. SENT BY:Xerox Telecopier 7020 11-20-90 ; 4:59PM ; OPIC WASH DC-> 2024566218;# 3 OVERSEAS PRIVATE INVESTMENT CORPORATION INVESTMENT MISSIONS For most U.S. companies, the ability to observe first- hand the investment potential in a targeted country is prerequisite to investing overseas. Profitable business investment, whether in the United States or in the de- veloping world, depends upon obtaining complete and accurate information from knowledgeable sources and meeting the right people who can identify the most promising opportunities. As a means of encouraging and facilitating private American investment in developing countries, OPIC has designed its Investment Missions program to introduce U.S. business executives to key private sector leaders, government officials and, most importantly, potential joint venture partners in the host country. Since the program's inception in 1975, OPIC has or- ganized investment missions to more than 45 develop- ing countries. OPIC generally leads five to seven mis- sions a year. Countries are selected based on the availability of viable, commercial opportunities and the host government's commitment to private, foreign in- vestment. Prior to scheduling a mission, an OPIC mis- sions officer visits the targeted country to evaluate the overall Investment climate and to confirm the potential for profitable U.S. investment. A typical OPIC investment mission runs five to ten days and includes senior executives from ten to twenty U.S. companies. Participants are selected on the basis of their financial and management capabilities to un- dertake an overseas venture as well as their experience SENT BY:Xerox Telecopier 7020 11-20-90 ; 4:59PM ; OPIC WASH DC-> 2024566218:# 4 in industries of priority interest to the host country. Ex- The sample schedule shown below illustrates the pro- perienced OPIC finance and insurance officers usually gram's emphasis on providing U.S. business execu- accompany missions to provide assistance and advice. tives with the types of briefings, personal meetings and The focus of each investment mission is on prear- business opportunities needed to open doors, stream- ranged individual meetings between mission partici- line the information gathering process, and cut through pants and potential joint venture business partners. red tape in order to move rapidly toward reaching an These private sessions frequently enable mission par- investment decision. ticipants to make significant progress in evaluating an investment in the host country. In addition to viewing project sites for potential new investment, mission par- ticipants actually visit existing operating facilities to ob- serve industrial standards and have an opportunity to inquire about operating practices. In a week's time, SAMPLE MISSION SCHEDULE mission participants gain an invaluable, comprehensive on-site crientation to the country and its investment op- Sunday portunities. Arrive in capital city and transfer to All OPIC investment missions are organized by the hotel agency's own missions staff in close cooperation with Registration with OPIC mission the U.S. Department of State, the Department of Com- control staff merce, the U.S. Embassy, and key government officials Monday and agencies of the host country. The OPIC Investment Missions program is self-sus- 9:00 a.m. Briefing by OPIC staff taining, and participants must pay their own travel and 9:30 a.m. Briefing by U.S. Embassy staff accommodation expenses as well as a pro-rata share 10:30 a.m. Briefings by key host country of the administrative costs. Not only does this allow government and industrial OPIC to continue to operate independently, but it also development officials ensures that all participants are serious potential inves- 2:00 p.m Panel discussion with local business tors. executives U.S. business executives participating in an OPIC 3:00 p.m. Panel discussion with U.S. business investment mission can anticipate the following: executives residing in host country 6:30 p.m. Reception hosted by U.S. Comprehensive background material, provided in Ambassador advance, on the host country, its economic and po- litical environment, key officials and organizations. Tuesday-Thursday Detailed information on specific investment oppor- Project site visits tunities proposed by local companies and entrepre- Luncheon hosted by American neurs. Chamber of Commerce in host country Prearranged schedules for private appointments with Individual appointments with: potential joint venture partners who have been -Prospective joint venture partners screened in advance. -Executives from leading local Briefings by the U.S. Ambassador and staff on local businesses economic and political trends. -Representatives of local financial institutions, accounting and law Access to the highest levels of the host government, firms including cabinet members and, frequently, the head of state. Friday Briefings by key host government and industrial de- Final meeting with host country velopment officials on the investment approval pro- government and U.S. Embassy cess, local regulations and available incentives. officials Advice from successful U.S. and local executives Saturday with experience in doing business in the host country. Depart for United States Visits to specific project sites. Meetings with representatives of local law and ac- counting firms and financial institutions. Opportunities to discuss similar interests and over- seas experiences with fellow mission participants. The WHITE WASHINGTON WASE Sorry it's all in spenish ! " " 11 Maybe you recipher enough to get a lead =i then finda a translator. My work attempts are in red ink. CURRENT BIOGRAPHY 1946 397 girl with a terrific imagination and demonic energy"-was in progress. Her first editor and most acute critic, her husband, writes: "Mar- garet doesn't know whether she has abandoned murder for good; the chances are she hasn't. But she writes out of mood, as she plays the piano, and her mood at present is too gay to permit her mind to dwell on murder. .She takes her writing seriously, sometimes spending a morning on a sentence, and she is an ardent student of good prose." The Millars expect to stay in California. The only thing Mrs. Millar misses is figure skating, but she can still swim and sail, her two other sports enthusiasms. Of medium height and build, the author has green eyes and brown hair. Her favorite authors are Evelyn Waugh, Katherine Mansfield, Rosamond Leh- mann, and William Faulkner (with Raymond Chandler, Agatha Christie, and John Dickson Carr among mystery writers) her all-time fa- vorite book, Tender Is the Night, by F. Scott Fitzgerald. The author claims her life is remarkable only for its omissions: "I have Cotton Studio never broken a limb, been divorced or arrested, never had anything stolen, and the only thing MARGARET MILLAR I ever lost was a phonograph needle." is the time," said Will Cuppy reviewing The Weak-Eyed Bat, "for all good fans to realize MISTRAL, GABRIELA (mēs-träl' gäb"rē- that Margaret Millar is a humdinger right up ä'lä) Apr. 7, 1889- Poet; educator in the top rank of bafflers, including the Brit- ish." Wall of Eyes, a serious mystery novel Address: b. c/o Ciudado del Ministerio de dealing with psychiatric problems, followed Relaciones Exteriores, Santiago, Chile next, in 1943. This book was hailed by the Latin America's leading contemporary poet, New Republic as one of the mystery classics Gabriela Mistral, long internationally recog- of the decade. nized, received the world's highest honor in After Fire Will Freeze (1944), a return to literature when she was awarded the Nobel farce, came The Iron Gates (1945), in the same Prize for 1945. A native of Chile, the prize genre as Wall of Eyes. Though to one re- winner is also widely known for her work in viewer it seemed that the author had "stayed education, having begun her career as a teacher too long in the clinic with her victims," an- and devoted her talents, both pedagogic and other found the book a masterpiece of horror, poetic, to children. Much of her poetry is re- with some of the brooding terror of Mabel See- ligious in tone, personal and lyrically passion- ley, some of the psychological insight of "Fran- ate. Following the Hispanic-American custom cis Iles." It has been filmed by Warner of appointing leading writers to foreign posts, in the course of the past decade Chile has ap- Brothers, who hired Mrs. Millar to write the pointed Gabriela Mistral to consulates in sev- script. She had a good time in Hollywood, eral capitals. she says, and was offered contracts by two other studios, but turned them down-"I hate to Gabriela Mistral was born Lucila Godoy write with someone breathing Basic English Alcayaga on April 7, 1889, in Vicuña, a small into my ear." town in the valley of Elqui in northern Chile. Of humble parentage, she is the daughter of Meanwhile Millar, who is a United States Jerónimo Godoy Villanueva and Petronila Al- citizen because he was born in California dur- cayaga, both Chileans of Spanish and Basque ing the temporary sojourn of his Canadian blood, with probably "more than a touch of parents, had been commissioned in the Navy, Indian." Her father was a village school teach- and was sent to Princeton and then to Harvard er, well known in the neighborhood as a "palla- for training. Mrs. Millar and Linda Jane fol- dor," or minstrel who composed verse for fes- lowed him to both colleges, and later to San tivals and joined in singing competitions with Diego. When he was ordered to duty in the other village troubadours. Lucila grew up in Pacific, Mrs. Millar bought a house in Santa the country among simple farm folk, and was Barbara, California, to which he returned after educated by her father and an older sister, his discharge. also a teacher. She attended the town's Liceo or high school, and later the Pedagogical Col- Mrs. Millar's new novel, "Experiment in lege in Santiago, Chile's capital. At the age Springtime" (not a mystery, but "a tragicomic of fifteen she became a primary school teacher study of an unsuccessful marriage") will ap- and for several years taught poor children in pear early in 1947. Another, tentatively called rural areas. She then turned from primary to "Priscilla"-"a comedy about a twelve-year-old secondary education, becoming Professor of 398 CURRENT BIOGRAPHY 1946 out to hear a favorite read a new composition. Spain, consisted of But Gabriela Mistral continued her educational poet's verse has 1 work. In 1918-22 she was director and Pro- cion and in Tala ( fessor of Spanish in three schools successively. poems have been tr On the invitation of the Mexican Government, man, Swedish, Italia she was commissioned by Chile to assist in the works are a serie reorganization and development of Mexican li- ("Questionings"), braries and rural schools, in which she was Clouds"), and The associated with the Minister of Education, Dr. tress, both first publ José Vasconcelos. She delivered a series of she has also written lectures on Hispanic-American literature and Assisi. In the Un other subjects, dedicated a school named for appeared in various her, had several of her children's songs set to monweal and Poetry music by a noted composer for use in children's in two anthologies education, and published a selection of reading Poets and Anthology for use in girls' secondary schools. The prob- Other selections of lems of the Indian masses also impressed her Women and Destru deeply. tral's Anthology" is Miss Mistral's two busy years in Mexico has also served or were followed by European travel. On her Bogotá newspaper, return to Chile she was welcomed with official Considered the fo honors and has since served her country in movement in Chile, consular and other posts. The poet was named versal favor" amo Chile's delegate to the League of Nations In- style is direct and stitute of Intellectual Cooperation, with head- and earthy, and he GABRIELA MISTRAL quarters in Paris, of which she later became ous, "a valuable con secretary. In 1927 she was the Chilean Teach- of the Spanish lang ers' Association delegate to the Congress of influences have bee Hygiene in the Traiguen secondary school in Educators at Locarno, and the following year Mexican Amado N 1911. Shortly thereafter she was given the she represented both her own country and Rubén Darío. Finla post of inspector general and Professor of His- Ecuador at the Conference of the International weal) finds in her tory in the Antofagasta school, where she re- University Federation at Madrid. In 1931 she gentle resignation, mained for a year. In 1912 she was appointed returned to teaching for a brief period when spontaneously ethic inspector and Professor of Castilian in the she came to the United States as professor of power" and "apostol Liceo de los Andes, a post she held for six Spanish history and civilization at Barnard and noted in her work years. Middlebury colleges. The next year she was lation, "the best-lov During this period, before 1920, the young visiting professor of Spanish studies at the poets." While mos teacher first gained recognition as a poet when University of Puerto Rico. Her consular serv- religious quality of she entered and won a poetry contest conducted ice began in 1933 with her appoinment to Ma- points out that alt by a writers' society in Santiago. Under the drid, where she remained for two years. Since Miss Mistral is "an name Gabriela Mistral-a composite pseudonym then she has been stationed in many important cording to another taken from two eminent European poets whom cities, including Lisbon, Genoa, and Nice. In "a universal matern she admired, Gabriele D'Annunzio, the Italian, December 1945 the poet was serving in Petrop- poor and the unfo and Frédéric Mistral, the Frenchman (also a olis, Brazil's summer capital. The writer Olive her political conscio Nobel prize winner)-she submitted three Holmes has said that on occasion, during the the proceeds from Soñetos de la Muerte ("Sonnets on Death"), last twenty years, the poet has "preferred to (1938) to the Basq for which she won the highest prize, a laurel absent herself" from her country when un- Civil War. The ge crown and a gold medal (1914). These poems sympathetic to the political administration. ure of dictator Fr were subsequently published in Chile, and However, Miss Mistral's position has generally pleasure which, how later appeared in translation in other countries. been undisturbed by political changes within poet's sympathy for Gabriela Mistral, as she was henceforth known, Chile. In the words of her compatriot Clarence glorified the missi had written her first poetry in 1907, stirred by Finlayson, "so great is her reputation that each work, revealing at a tragic love affair which found expression in successive government feels honored to have understanding of sorrowful lyrics. A year later she utilized the Gabriela as its representative abroad." proach to teaching. material of her own experience in the com- The first volume of Gabriela Mistral's poetry themes, creating bea position La Voz de Elqui ("The Voice of had been published, not in Chile, but in New she has generally Elqui"). She also dealt poetically with what York where Dr. Federico de Onís, professor Wrote one Chilear has been the great interest of her life-children. of Spanish literature at Columbia University, to enduring fame li Her poems about and for children, such as had stimulated interest in the work of the and moving the tr: Canciones de Cuna (lullabies) and Rondas de Chilean poet. According to the professor, his man." Her writings Niños (Children's songs), were published in students "wanted to know where they could short inspirational : newspapers and magazines. After winning the get her poems, and all I could give them was 1914 poetry award she rapidly took her place The poetry of Ga a handful of clippings. I told them that if they moods and a wide among South America's foremost poets. Some wanted a volume, enough of them would have of her poems and prose pieces were included minor key are these to subscribe to copies to pay for the printing." in a five-volume set of school readers and also nets of Death (tran Thus the first edition of Desolación ("Desola- in a volume of the translated work of the great well) : tion") was published under the auspices of the Hindu poet Rabindranath Tagore. Spanish Institute in New York in 1922, and a From that cold Her fame as a poet spread, and brought her year later was reprinted in the poet's native laid you by, the public adulation bestowed on leading poets land. Her next volume, Ternura ("Tender- I shall take do in Latin America, where huge crowds will turn ness"), published during her first sojourn in ground, CURRENT BIOGRAPHY 1946 399 Spain, consisted of poems for children. The Where humble and alone myself shall poet's verse has been collected in Desola- lie, cion and in Tala (Buenos Aires, 1938). Her Where we shall share dream-pillowings poems have been translated into French, Ger- profound. man, Swedish, Italian, and English. Among her Beside you stretching I shall show you works are a series of sonnets, Preguntas all ("Questionings"), Nubes blancas ("White Clouds"), and The Prayer of the Schoolmis- A mother's yearning for her child tress, both first published in Barcelona in 1930; asleep, she has also written a life of St. Francis of So earth shall cradle your pale body's Assisi. In the United States her poetry has pall, appeared in various magazines, including Com- And sweetness smother half the sobs monweal and Poetry, and in 1938 was reprinted you weep. in two anthologies, Some Spanish-American Poets and Anthology of Latin-American Poetry. Pitched to a lighter key is the opening stanzas Other selections of her work are Lectures for of the inspirational lyric, "Hymn to the Tree": Women and Destruction, and "Gabriela Mis- tral's Anthology" is being translated. The poet 0 Brother tree, fast fixed in earth has also served on the editorial staff of a By brown hooks 'neath the soil that lie, Bogotá newspaper, Time. Yet raising thy clean brow aloft With fervent yearning for the sky! Considered the founder of the modern poetry movement in Chile, Miss Mistral enjoys "uni- The prose poem "To the Children" is typical versal favor" among her countrymen. Her both of her use of this form and of her feeling style is direct and personal, her imagery rich for children. It begins: and earthy, and her words simple and vigor- Many years hence, when I am a little ous, "a valuable contribution to the enrichment heap of silent dust, play with me, with of the Spanish language." Her chief literary the earth of my heart and of my bones! influences have been the Bible, Tagore, the Mexican Amado Nervo, and the Nicaraguan Rubén Darío. Finlayson (writing in Common- A frequent contributor to periodicals in weal) finds in her work "a unique delicacy, Spanish America, Europe, and the United gentle resignation, and an inclination that is States, Miss Mistral has written articles on spontaneously ethical." "Gripping dramatic sociological and cultural subjects. Living Age power" and "apostolic intensity" have also been (August 28, 1926) carried her study "Mex- noted in her work and she has won the appel- ico's Educational Effort," the Bulletin of the lation, "the best-loved of living Spanish mystic Pan American Union (October 1938) published poets." While most critics stress the strong her tender "Farewell to the Children of Brazil," religious quality of her poetry, Mildred Adams and in April 1931 the Pan American Magazine points out that although an ardent Catholic, published her "Message to American Youth." Miss Mistral is "an avowed anti-clerical." Ac- Long an enthusiastic worker for harmony and cording to another critic, her poetry reveals understanding between the Americas, the poet- "a universal maternal instinct for children, the teacher in this last article declared: "We of poor and the unfortunate." This feeling and North and South America have accepted with her political consciousness impelled her to give our heritage of geographic unity a certain com- the proceeds from the sale of her book Tala mon destiny which should find a threefold ful- (1938) to the Basque orphans of the Spanish fillment on our continent in an adequate stand- Civil War. The gesture incurred the displeas- ard of living, perfect democracy, and ample ure of dictator Franco's supporters, a dis- liberty." Writing in Free World in February pleasure which, however, failed to dampen the 1943, she "sharply, yet eloquently" analyzed the differences which hinder inter-American unity poet's sympathy for the child victims. She has glorified the mission of the teacher in her in her article "The Gulf and The Bridge." work, revealing at the same time her profound Primary among these isolating factors she understanding of children and idealistic ap- found race prejudice-"that great paganistic proach to teaching. While she has treated many and collective evil, racial superstition, the idol- themes, creating beautiful love and nature lyrics, atry of the skin, exists both within and between she has generally written "out of sorrow." the Americas." Egocentric cultural attitudes, Wrote one Chilean critic: "Her best claim Miss Mistral says, also contribute largely to to enduring fame lies in her making articulate disunity, for the average North American, con- and moving the tragedy of the childless wo- fusing culture with civilization, "does not be- man." Her writings include many prose poems, lieve the average man in Latin America has short inspirational stories of a Biblical quality. a cultural rank equal to his own." She con- cludes: "I write as a prophet when I say that The poetry of Gabriela Mistral reflects many the [century of the common man will be built in moods and a wide range of sensitivity. In the Americas only on common ground in edu- minor key are these lines from the early Son- cation, regardless of race, creed, or language. nets of Death (translated by Alice Stone Black- The Chilean poet has been widely honored well) for her literary and poetic work. Her first visit From that cold ledge where they have to the United States, in 1924, was marked by laid you by, an impressive official reception and an inter- I shall take down and lay you in the view with President Coolidge at the White ground, House. She holds an honorary diploma from 400 CURRENT BIOGRAPHY 1946 MISTRAL, GABRIELA-Continued Commonweal 35:160-3 D 5 '41 receive the Republicar the University of Chile, and membership in the Free World 5:191 F '43 supreme court justice Committee of Arts and Letters of the League Liv Age 323:495-6 N 29 '24 tions had been his alo of Nations. Her most recent honor, the 1945 Columbia Encyclopedia (1935) and Populist endorsem Nobel Prize, placed her in the ranks of Kip- Who's Who in America, 1946-47 feated by the Repub ling, Tagore, Yeats, Mann, and Galsworthy. strongly Republican sta (Five years earlier she had been proposed for his term in December the Nobel award by the Peruvian newspaper, MITCHELL, WILLIAM D(E WITT) and son set up their La Cronica.) When she accepted the award in Sept. 9, 1874- Lawyer St. Paul. Then, afte Stockholm in December, she said, "The New Address: b. 20 Exchange P1., New York; August 1900, the youn World has been honored through me. The h. Syosset, N.Y. firm of Palmer, Beek, victory is not mine, but America's." On her partner. He was then Swedish visit the poet found that country's As its first official act the Joint Congres- Within a short time social democracy "a century ahead of every- sional Committee Investigating the Pearl Har- and Beek left the firm thing else" and was reported by Time Maga- bor Attack on September 26, 1945, selected Wil- self (wrote Theodore zine to have been the "lioness of social Stock- liam D. Mitchell as committee counsel. A for- litical observer, in Wo1 holm." mer United States Solicitor General and At- a large law practice W torney General, with a large private practice in After her European visit, in March 1946 Miss built up. Believing a New York City, the septuagenarian lawyer, firm to be desirable, M Mistral was received by President Truman and many of whose colleagues include him among ior partner of How, feted in Washington and in other cities. The the half-dozen best practitioners at the national When Pierce Butler I United States, the poet had remarked on her bar, was chosen by unanimous vote. He pre- tice in 1905, after rt arrival, possesses the "strongest pulse of life sided at the hearings until shortly after the St. Paul, Minneapolis and creation" in the world today. She has, too, Christmas recess of the committee. attorney for six years praised the qualities of American men and ex- William De Witt Mitchell was born on Sep- ized as Butler, Mitcl pressed the "highest kind of admiration" for tember 9, 1874, in Winona, Minnesota, the son practice of Mitchell a American women. Formerly a member of the of William and Frances (Merritt) Mitchell. ing entirely of privat United Nations Subcommission on the Status His paternal grandparents had emigrated from became one of the 1 of Women, Gabriela Mistral, after attending Scotland to Ontario, Canada, but his father, a During these years ( meetings once, resigned from it in May 1946. native of Ontario, received his education in the held no public office. One of the reasons she gave for her action United States and eventually settled as a law- casions when he aspi was her disagreement with the aim of the sub- yer in Winona in 1857. For twenty years the poration counsel and commission. She did not believe, she said elder Mitchell was a distinguished justice of bench," reported Jos in an interview, that the way for women to ob- the Minnesota Supreme Court, and today many came after the time tain equality with men was through special pro- of the opinions he rendered are used in the that they would be tective legislation. "It [special protective legis- case books of the country's principal law When the United St: lation] does not equalize. It lowers women. schools. Young Mitchell left Winona at the I, Mitchell again inte: Common legislation raises womanhood's stand- age of fourteen to attend the Lawrenceville to help organize and ards, gives it equality." Miss Mistral explained (preparatory) School in New Jersey and then, Sixth (later the 206th that she was neither a fighter nor an "official not yet attracted to law as a profession, en- signed to home guard feminist." Later in the year Gabriela Mistral rolled in the Sheffield Scientific School of Yale tered the Field Art was named as one of the Latin American University to study electrical engineering. Va- School at Camp Tay women sponsoring the Inter-American Con- cations he spent with his father, absorbing the remained until the A gress of Women to be held in May of 1947. legal discussions and arguments of the attor- Rejoining his law Earlier, in January 1946, press reports revealed neys, judges, and justices who were his father's entered upon a varie that her countrymen planned to make her birth- companions. And after two years at Yale he tice. And in 1922, W place a cultural center. Many South American transferred to the University of Minnesota and Harding appointed Pi whereiz schools and libraries have been named in her a pre-law course. He received his B.A. from States Supreme Cour honor. As for her poetry, Miss Mistral has Minnesota in 1895 and, after a post-graduate partner of the reorg revealed that "for years she has had material night law course, his LL.B. in 1896. In that Doherty, Rumble, Bur for two or three new books of verse." year he was admitted to the Minnesota bar Three years later F and began his career as a law clerk with the appointed him, a Der Gabriela Mistral is a tall, handsome woman firm of Stringer and Seymour in St. Paul, to Solicitor General of with strong features, straight hair, a dark com- the most highly prize plexion, and a "captivating smile." She dresses which city the family had moved while he was in school. appointment had com simply. One interviewer has remarked, "Only her clear eyes contrast with the pointedly At the outbreak of the Spanish-American ner, notes Joslin. Sh Araucanian [Indian] characteristics, and betray War in 1898, Mitchell interrupted his career Mitchell was appreh to serve as a second lieutenant in the Fifteenth occupation in private a remote Spanish ancestry," while another says, "She is of the Basque type that predominates Minnesota volunteer infantry. Subsequently, tion, an influential fr in Chile." She has impressed reporters with he became acting judge advocate for the Sec- him if he wished to her sincerity and simplicity. The poet revealed ond United States Army Corps (1898), engi- for a vacancy as cir neer officer of the third brigade, First Divi- Joslin, truthfully and the key to her philosophy and lifework when sion, Second Army Corps (1899), and captain replied that only the she said, "I am a Christian, a total democrat. I believe that Christianity, in its profoundest and adjutant of the Fourth Regiment of the eral would interest social sense, can save the peoples of the world." Minnesota National Guard (1899-1901). Upon occurred some time To this she added, "I have written as one who being mustered out of the Army after the end friend presented the speaks in solitariness." of the Spanish-American War in February and the President p: 1899, the young man returned to the firm of aspirants in his choic References Stringer and Seymour, with whom he now re- "Under the directi Bul Pan Am Union 58:647-61 J1 24 por mained for approximately a year. But in the eral," states the U Chilean Gaz p10+ D '45 por 1898 elections the elder Mitchell had failed to Manual, "the Solic McGroarty/Dooley November 20, 1990 5:00 pm [CHILE] PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: THE CHILEAN LEGISLATURE VALPARAISO, CHILE DECEMBER 6, 1990 XX:00 A.M. President Aylwin. Members of the Chilean Congress -- and all the people of Chile: It is a great privilege to address you today, and to bring you -- on behalf of the American people -- our heart-felt congratulations on Chile's return to democratic rule. // Here atop the hills of Valparaiso -- here in the halls of this assembly -- stands proof that Chile has returned to the democratic path. Proof that -- in Chile -- once more, the people shall govern. // It is my hope that this visit will renew and strengthen the ties between our two nations that trace back to the first days of Chilean independence: To your first Congress, convened on the 4th of July, 1811. To the guiding principles we share -- "the community of ideas" that linked your new nation to our own nearly 180 years ago. // At the center of that community of ideas stands the shining principle that unites us today: democracy. // In the past year, the world has focussed on the dramatic events that brought democracy to Eastern Europe -- and an end to an era of Cold War and conflict. But the principles at the root 2 of those revolutions across the Atlantic are the very same that give life to our own democratic destiny. And in spite of the events unfolding in Europe, it is here -- here in the Americas - - that democracy stands on the threshold of a new era. // It is here that the triumph of the democratic ideal promises to make the Americas the first fully free hemisphere in all of history. // Chileans can take great pride in the role they have played in Latin America's democratic renaissance. Since the plebiscite of October 1988, Chile has undergone a political transformation every bit as far-reaching as the revolutions that changed the face of Eastern Europe. // When others, frustrated by the long years under autocratic rule, might have engaged in recrimination -- Chile chose reconciliation. // When others might have consumed themselves with settling scores, reopening old wounds, Chile chose to draw from its painful past a positive lesson. // Every year under autocratic rule served only to deepen your devotion to freedom, tolerance and respect for human rights -- to strengthen Chile's collective resolve to make this return to democracy permanent -- and irreversible. // Chile's peaceful return to the way of democracy owes much to the leadership of a man of vision and great moral courage: President Patricio Aylwin. // But as President Aylwin understands -- as everyone in this chamber knows -- democracy's ultimate success rests not on the shoulders of one man alone -- but on the collective commitment of 3 every Chilean -- every citizen in every region, from every station in society -- to put allegiance to democracy above any differences that divide you. // As a friend of Chile -- as the representative of a fellow democracy -- I have deep respect for all that this nation has done to move forward, in peace, to this new day of freedom. // What is happening here in Chile is part of a larger movement sweeping this continent. Centuries ago, the Americas represented to the explorers of Europe the new world -- an uncharted territory of promise and possibility. // Today, too, the Americas hold out hope of a new world -- a world in which all men and women live in liberty -- free to work and worship as they wish. // My travels these past few days have made me more certain than ever that the Americas share a common democratic destiny -- and that Latin America's future lies with free government and free markets. // Chile -- now returned to the democratic path -- has long recognized the merits of a free market economy. // From the day Diego de Almagro first stepped foot on what is now Chilean soil, your life-blood and link to the world has been trade. // What has been true for Chile throughout its long history is today increasingly true for all nations. // Chile has moved farther, faster than any other Latin nation toward real free market reform. // The payoff is evident to 4 all: seven straight years of economic growth. In exports alone, a 15 to 20 percent increase in each of the past five years. This explosive growth has secured for Chile a growing impact on the world economy. // Today, the farmer in Valdivia labors not just to feed his family or even his village -- but to deliver products to the dinner tables of Japan, Europe and the U.S. From the miner in Lota, the world obtains the raw materials it puts to use in everything from new homes to skyscrapers to space shuttles. // Chile's success is the product of wise policy -- a comprehensive plan to transform this nation's economy into an engine for growth. // Chile has worked to create an open and inviting investment climate for foreign capital. Since 1985, about $2.5 billion dollars in new investment has flowed into Chile. Capital flight -- which has sapped the economic strength of so many Latin nations -- is now reversing itself, with returning funds spurring new investment here at home. // And Chile has pioneered some of the world's most creative debt reduction programs. Debt for equity swaps -- exchanges that have transformed debt from a dead- weight on development into new opportunities for growth. /// Chile is a land of tremendous natural riches -- near limitless potential. The mineral wealth of the arid Atacama; the black earth of the Central Valley; the broad bay here at Valparaiso, for centuries Chile's port of entry and access point to the world beyond. 11 5 But all of these abundant resources pale in comparison to this nation's most significant asset: the vast human potential of the people of Chile. Give to the people of Chile the opportunity to better themselves -- to provide for their families, their children -- and Chile will build its future. Let the people reap the rewards of their own hard work -- and incentive will spur enterprise. // The future of Chile is the sum total of every individual's hopes and dreams. // Unleash these energies -- and uncover a reservoir of riches. Tap this source -- and transform a nation. // What has worked here in Chile can work across this continent. // Last June, I introduced an initiative I call Enterprise for the Americas -- a comprehensive plan to reduce the crippling burden of debt, and increase trade and investment, across the Americas -- North, Central and South. // Enterprise for the Americas has generated great hope in the future of free markets across the continent. For its part, Chile has become the first nation to sign with the U.S. a framework free trade agreement. // I look to Chile to continue to lead the way -- to remain at the forefront of the free market movement now taking hold across Latin America. // I want to see our two nations work together to bring down barriers to free and fair trade -- not just here in the Americas, but around the world. // The great economic lesson of the past 6 half-century is that protectionism stifles progress -- and that free markets breed prosperity. // In the Uruquay Round, we have sought a deep reduction -- and ultimately -- the complete elimination of counter-productive agricultural subsidies. // [[UPDATE ON OBJECTIVES IN URUGUAY ROUND. ]] We can and must continue to work in common cause toward a successful conclusion to the Uruguay Round. // Together with Chile and its Latin neighbors, we here in the Americas constitute a potent force for free trade. Let me say to all of you today: the United States stands ready to forge a new partnership in prosperity. /// I've been told, according to some scholars, that the word Chile means "the ends of the earth.' Today, what Chile means to the world is far different: your nation is at the very center of the democratic revival transforming this continent -- bringing us closer each passing day to the new world we seek. Because what matters in this new world is not the vast distances that separate us -- but the vital ideals that bring us together. // Let today mark the beginning of a new partnership between our peoples. Let us all -- across the Americas -- work together toward a new world in which every nation is the home of liberty, democracy and progress. // Once again, thank you for this warm welcome -- and may God bless. the people of Chile. # # # VOLUME 7 Civilization to Coronium THE ENCYCLOPEDIA AMERICANA INTERNATIONAL EDITION COMPLETE IN THIRTY VOLUMES FIRST PUBLISHED IN 1829 GROLIER INCORPORATED International Headquarters: Danbury, Connecticut 06816 a S n 0 S KENNECOTT COPPER CORPORATION COPPER ORE is usually obtained by strip mining from open-pit mines. The open- pit mine in Bingham Canyon, in north-central Utah, is the largest in the world. COPPER, kop'ar, is a metallic element of great Chemical Properties. A free atom of copper has technological and historical importance. It is an arrangement of electrons which can lead to valued for its strength, malleability, ductility, the formation of a Cu+1 ion or a Cu ion. A corrosion resistance, and its ability to conduct copper ion with a single electron removed is electricity and heat. The metal is fairly abundant called a cuprous ion, while a copper ion with and has been used by man since prehistoric times 2 electrons removed is called a cupric ion. The for a wide variety of purposes, both by itself and singly ionized cuprous ion occurs when an as an alloy with other metals. In the ancient electron is removed from the outer electron shell world copper was used for making tools and of a copper atom, and the doubly ionized cupric weapons, and the metal and its alloys have served ion results from the additional removal of an as building and ornamental materials. Today electron from an inner electron shell. (An un- copper is of importance in such diverse areas as stable, triply ionized form of copper also occurs.) electroplating. plumbing, and the manufacture of This difference in the way in which copper can electric motors, television sets, airplanes, and be ionized accounts for the relatively different satellites. Its compounds are important in agri- properties of chemical compounds of copper culture and the chemical industry. where different valences are involved. Removal of an electron from a free atom is often referred CONTENTS to as an oxidation reaction. For example, copper Section Page Section Page with 1 electron removed is said to be in a plus 1. Properties 759 Other Alloys 762 1 oxidation state, while copper with 2 electrons 2. Mining and Metal- Chemical Com- removed is said to be in a plus 2 oxidation state. lurgy 760 pounds 762 (The plus, in this case, refers to the sign of the Mining 760 4. History of Copper 762 charge on the ion involved.) Concentration 761 5. Modern Copper Smelting 761 Industry 764 The chemical reactivity of copper in forming Refining 761 Industry Development compounds involves both the plus ] and the 3. Alloys and from 1900 764 plus 2 oxidation states; chemical compounds of Compounds 761 Industry Structure 765 Brass and Bronze 761 Copper Products 766 the plus 2 state are somewhat more stable than those of the plus 1 state. The chemical reaction 1. Properties of copper with basic solutions is minimal, ex- cept in the case of solutions containing ammonia. Copper is the 29th element in the periodic Copper is not replaced by hydrogen in acidic table; it, has an atomic weight of 63.54 and is solutions, on the other hand, but it is easily the first in the series of metallic elements that dissolved in oxidizing acids such as nitric acid. also contains silver and gold. Copper is a rela- Within a copper crystal, the copper atoms tively heavy metal, with a specific gravity of are arranged in a face-centered cubic structure. 8.96. The pure element is salmon pink and As a result, each copper atom has 12 equidistant has a bright metallic luster when polished. The neighbors which are symmetrically distributed metal is nonmagnetic, tough, and moderately around the atom. This arrangement has the hard, and it resists wear very well. highest symmetry of any crystal structure in 759 760 COPPER: 2. Mining and Metallurgy nature. The actual diameter of a single copper tubing, when used for carrying water, does not atom is about 2.5 angstrom units or 2.5 X 18⁻⁸ stantial change in the pick up a mineral deposit (as does iron pipe in the process since cm. under similar circumstances). This accounts for Electrical Conductivity. One of the single most used in mining opera the extensive use of copper for making water tions of automatic tec important properties of bulk copper is its very pipes and water valves and other fittings used high electrical conductivity. This property ac- phase of the mining in superior plumbing installations. On the other counts for the extensive use of copper in the however, in significa hand. the familiar corrosion product that appears electrical industry. The high electrical con- efficiency. Indeed, i) on copper statuary is considered a highly desira- mining plant now in ductivity of copper is intimately associated with ble protective coating. This coating, or patina, United States, there the fact that when free copper atoms are brought is a mixture of the basic copper sulfates the costs of obtaining together to form bulk copper, the valence elec- CuSO₄ Cu( OH)₂ and CuSO4 3Cu( Concentration. Sin trons of the copper are not restricted to their JAMES M. GALLIGAN, Columbia University most mines is quite lo parent atoms but are free to migrate throughout the solid. On the basis of a unit volume, the 2. Mining and Metallurgy 1% by weight), the substantial part of th electrical conductivity of copper (at room tem- The primary sources of copper for the mining fore any smelting ope perature) is exceeded only by the electrical industry are the mineral copper sulfides (chal- operation, called conc conductivity of silver. Indeed. the electrical cocite, chalcopyrite, bornite), oxides (such as ing, grinding, classific properties of copper are the basis of an inter- cuprite), and to a lesser extent carbonates drying of the ore. 1 national standard; the conductivity of a bar of malachite, azurite) that are found in igneous copper in the resultir copper 1 meter long and weighing 1 gram, at rock. These deposits of copper minerals are of steps is about 30% 20°C (68°F), is established as 100% conductiv- distributed throughout the world; very few, if grinding procedures ity. Even so, modern purification techniques any, known extensive deposits of native ele- eral particles in whi easily produce a grade of copper which is 4% to mental copper remain today, although ancient copper mineral occurs 5% higher in conductivity than this standard. man probably made direct use of such deposits. passed through a ser Thermal Conductivity. Another important con- Sources. About 90% of the world's known re- to which a frothing sequence of the presence of free electrons in serve of copper is contained in four general added. Air is the the solid is the very high thermal conductivity areas. Two of the areas are in North America: through the flotation of copper, again only exceeded by the thermal the Rocky Mountain and Great Basin area, and froth. An additional conductivity of silver. Many of the extensive the central area of Canada (which is associated lector, is added to the commercial applications of copper rely upon this with a Precambrian shield). One of the areas is adherence of the CO high thermal conductivity. Some of these are in South America, along the western slope of the air bubbles occur refrigerators, evaporators, heating coils, and dis- the Andes Mountains in Peru and Chile, while called gangue, falls tilling apparatus in the chemical industry, in the last is in the upper Katanga region of the A simple consider which high thermal conductivity is required. Congo Kinshasa and the adjacent Copperbelt output concentration Mechanical Properties. Many of the industrial region of Zambia The copper deposit at Chu- large as 100 to 1-sh operations involved in the formation of copper quicamata, Chile represents today's greatest of placing concentrat into usable shapes involve extensive plastic (per- known reserve of copper ore, but the world mining operation as F manent) deformation of the metal. Copper, in center of copper production is the United States cessing of the gang contrast to iron, can be deformed in this manner -primarily in the Colorado Plateau and the upper which exposes more C -even at temperatures approaching absolute Michigan peninsula. Other rich deposits exist is then used in some zero-without any serious loss of ductility. This is in the United States, but they are relatively Smelting. Smelting quite important, since the final forming operation small. Very little is known of the distribution stantial removal of un of many products does not require heating the of copper reserves in the USSR, except that they impurities from the copper during the operation. Heating, if re- are thought to exist in the Soviet Asian republic moval of the sulfur i quired, would seriously discolor the product. of Kazakhstan. the ore in the presen Also, copper would tend to oxidize when heated, Another important source of copper is sec- dizing the sulfur, w and would be seriously embrittled. ondary copper, or copper obtained from scrap dioxide. This particu The mechanical properties of copper vary material. This refers not only to material ob- often referred to as TO over a wide range, depending strongly on the tained from reclaimed articles but also to such quite suitable for add past history of the material. For example, ex- by-products of copper production as "trimmings," then be carried out tensive plastic deformation of single copper "sweepings," and "drosses." About one third of The smelting operati crystals starts at stresses as low as 15 psi (1 kg the copper consumed in the United States today silicate flux, which r per sq cm) in polycrystalline copper, plastic comes from scrap; and, because of the high price (present as an oxide deformation is initiated at 500 psi (35 kg per paid for such materials, many measures are bining with it to form sq cm). Extensive cold-working of copper can taken to reuse scrap copper. Mining. About 94% of the copper produced dense than the conce introduce a further increase in the yield stress removed from the sm to a value of 10,000 psi (more than 700 kg throughout the world is obtained through the following series of operations. First the material The material that per sq cm). However, in contrast to iron, copper shows extensive plastic deformation after is strip mined. Concentration of the ore follows, copper, some iron, an fur-is referred to as extreme reductions in cross-sectional area. In and then the ore is smelted (heated to remove sulfur and oxygen). There is a final refining into another special f fact, in wire drawing of copper, the material is and there it is reduce often reduced to less than 1% of its original operation that involves fire or electrolytic in a two-step process. diameter. refining. The two major methods of obtaining copper eliminating any remain Cold-worked copper can be annealed at ores from the ground are open-pit mining and through an oxidation temperatures as low as 392°F (200°C); extensive underground mining. Of these two methods, remaining copper sulf softening of the material occurs. Annealing at progressively higher temperatures leads to addi- open-pit mining is the more extensively used of the sulfide with ai tional softening of the deformed material. Com- today, since its costs are substantially less than operation is completed plete softening is reached at temperatures of those of underground mining. In open-pit min- are used to stir the about 1200°F (650°C). ing, large blast holes are drilled at appropriate reduce any remaining Another important property of copper which places in the ore vein, the material is blasted of the carbon in the 1 loose, and it is then removed to the concentrating a relatively pure cop] lends itself to commercial use is its corrosion plant. While the efficiency of each operation has Refining. After the resistance, and especially its resistance to oxida- increased greatly throughout history, no sub- pleted, the resulting tion while carrying water. Furthermore, copper suitable for commerc 766 COPPER: 5. Modern Copper Industry COPPER CLIFF, a foi Ontario, Canada, in The largest copper firm in the world is Ken- found in Europe are in the Soviet Union, 35 km) southwest of Suc necott Copper Corporation, which operates the million tons, and Poland, 11.4 million tons. In smelting and refining largest open-pit mine in the world at Bingham, Asia, mainland China's reserves are thought to tant quantities of nic Utah. This is the second-largest producing mine be 3 million tons. In Africa, Zambia is estimated ium, osmium, and Vi in the world. Kennecott alone supplies from 35% to have 25 million tons of reserves and the merged with Sudbury to 40% of all the ore mined in the United States. Congo (Kinshasa) 20 million tons. The second-largest producer in the world is COPPER PYRITE. Se Anaconda Company, which obtains about three COPPER PRODUCTS fourths of its ore outside the United States, pri- It is convenient to classify copper uses by COPPER RIVER, a marily from Chile. Phelps Dodge Corporation is both end use (the product) and by the different It rises in the Wrar the second-largest domestic producer (that is, industries that buy the metal. south into the Gulf of in the U.S. mines), and Anaconda is third in End Uses. About 35% of copper consumption km) east of Cordova. this field. These three companies-Kennecot, in the United States is for electrical equipment. than 300 miles (500 k Anaconda, and Phelps Dodge-mine about 75% This is followed by fabricated metal products, rich copper deposits ( of the total U.S. output. 32%; machinery other than electrical, 13%; and of these-in the area In the smelting segment of the industry, four transportation equipment, 12%. Miscellaneous hausted in 1938. companies-Phelps Dodge, Kennecott, American uses account for less than 8% of the sales. About The chief tributa Smelting and Refining, and Anaconda-control half of all the copper consumed is for electrical Chistochina, Gakona, about 86% of all operations. The same four com- purposes because the listed end uses cut across Copper is not navigal panies control about 80% of refining capacity. many lines that involve electrical use. The use because of its rapids Concentration is not so evident in fabricating. of copper for defense-rated orders increases rap- other glacial discharge Anaconda is the largest fabricator, accounting for idly during wars or military emergencies. 10% of the total. In all, there are about 200 In the electrical equipment industry the four COPPER SULFATE is firms in the United States engaged in the pro- largest end uses consume about 20% of all copper. cial importance. It is duction and selling of copper. The pattern, In descending order these are motors and gen- fate. The most comm especially in the biggest firms, is toward vertical erators, transformers, switchgears and switch- sulfate is the pentahy integration-a single firm may mine, smelt, re- boards, and current-carrying devices. known as bluestone, fine, fabricate, and market. In fabricated metal products the largest uses peras. In addition. CO In the United States about 360 mines pro- of copper are in valves and pipe fittings (the anhydrous salt CuSO, duce copper, but the largest 25 account for about leader at more than 9% of all copper use), and, CuSO, H.O. Other h 96% of all production. Arizona supplies roughly in descending order, plumbing fixtures and trim, pound are also known 50% of the U.S. total. Utah, from one mine, metal stampings, screw machine products, and The pentahydrate produces 18%. The remaining U.S. production, hardware. solutions to form lar in descending order of importance, comes from In other types of machinery, refrigeration clinic crystals. When } Montana, New Mexico, Nevada, and Michigan. equipment is the biggest consumer item, account- they lose water (effl Only 2% of the copper is supplied from Eastern ing for about 3.6% of all copper consumed. This white crystals of the Il states. Most of the smelting of copper is also is followed by pumps and compressors and use ued heating to 250° done in the West. in machine shops. drate is converted to The grade of copper ore mined in the United In transportation equipment motor vehicles drous salt. Above 600 States has declined constantly since about 1880, and parts account for almost 10% of all copper decomposition occurs when the ore mined contained an average of 3% consumed. About 40 pounds of copper is re- (CuO) remains. Alth copper. By World War I, the ore mined was quired per vehicle. A large airplane uses about only moderately solubl down to 2% copper, and in the 1950's it was only 3,000 pounds (1,360 kg) of copper, and a Pull- soluble in hot water. 0.8%. Improved mining techniques, however, man car uses about 2,000 pounds (907 kg). Almost half the cop served to keep costs down in spite of the in- Industry Users. The largest industry users of is used for agricultural ferior grade of copper mined. copper in the United States include the construc- pesticide to destroy fun Worldwide, 45 countries produce copper, but tion industry, where the metal is bought for organisms and to conti five areas contain 93% of the world's measured building wire, roofing products, plumbing goods, added to fertilizers an and indicated reserves of copper. They are: (1) builder's hardware, gutters, flashing, and fittings. vide the trace of copp Chile and Peru, where there are large American- In transportation copper is used by many manu- nutrition of plants and owned mines, (2) the western United States, facturers: by automobile makers, in radiators, used to control the g (3) Zambia and the Democratic Republic of heaters, defrosters, and oil lines; by railroad- treatment ponds. Congo (Kinshasa), (4) Kazakhstan in the USSR, equipment makers, in locomotives, passenger cars, Other uses of copp and (5) eastern Canada, where three mines and signal devices; and by aircraft makers, in mercial preparation 0 supply 75% of the country's copper. wiring systems. The appliance industry is a textile dyeing, in the p The United States led in the tonnage of cop- large consumer of copper, particularly for leather tanning, and in per mined in the late 1960's, followed by the washing machines, air-conditioners, refrigerators, It is also used in elec USSR (whose totals are not announced), Zam- and radio and television sets (particularly those battery electrolyte, in n bia, Chile, Canada, and the Congo (Kinshasa). with printed circuits). Copper is used extensively leum refining. In medi (In some years production in Chile exceeds that for telephone wire and cable. cally as a fungicide ano in Zambia.) Zambia's mines, which sell most of Copper is also widely used as an alloy. Brass Basic cupric sulfate, their copper to Britain, are controlled by Anglo and bronze are used for builder's hardware (locks is used to control per: American Corporation and Rhodesian Selection and knockers), and copper alloys abound in vegetables and fruits. Trust Company. jewelry, furnishings, and cookware. forms on copper that Estimates vary widely, but the total world PAUL WEINER, University of Connecticut atmosphere consists foi reserve of copper is generally considered to be cupric sulfate. 212 million metric tons. That is enough copper Friedrich, G., and others, Bibliography eds., Geology and Metallogeny of to last 50 years at the usual production rate Mazger, Dorothea, Copper in the World Economy (Monthly Copper Deposits (Springer-Verlag 1986). The Coop of slightly more than 4 million tons annually. In North America, the United States is estimated Mikesell, Raymond, The World Copper Industry (Johns Review Press 1980). COPPERHEAD, kop'ar- to have a reserve of 32.5 million tons and Canada Wagenhals, G., The World Copper Market (Springer-Verlag Owen, A., Biochemical Aspects of Copper 1982); Hopkins Univ. Press 1979). poisonous snake of the 8.4 million tons. In South America, Chile is es- teristically, the top of timated to have a reserve of 46 million tons and Peru 12.5 million tons. The leading reserves West, 1984). E. G., Copper and Its Alloys (Halsted Press 1982). Peggy -- I will need some specific regional examples of Chile's natural riches/potential, to mention by name in the speech: Agricultural area? Desert region -- minerals/mines? ports -- (Valparaiso?) which is Chile's largest? Would also like examples to provide good geographic coverage: e.g., deserts in north, agric. from central or south, etc. Thanks, Dan copper- uses? space shuttle, rocketry? next wk. - McDonalds Grand Opening McDonalds = America Micasa, su Lasa LBJ-Lady Bird Status of Enterprise for the Americas Legislation We gained authority in the Farm Bill to reduce PL-480 debt and to establish a mechanism to channel local currency interest payments to fund environmental projects in Latin American and Caribbean countries. Similar legislation to authorize reduction of AID debt passed the House but was not acted on in the Senate. Action on a stand-alone bill was impeded by concerns of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee -- particularly Senator Helms. An effort to insert the authorization in the House bill into the Foreign Operations appropriations bill during conference was unsuccessful due to concerns of staff and an intervention by House Foreign Affairs Committee Chairman Fascell. The EAI provisions in the Farm Bill: establish a Facility in the Treasury Department to administer debt reduction; set out economic conditions for qualification for debt reduction; provide for debt reduction through an exchange of old obligations for new, reduced obligations; allow for payment of interest in local currency if a country has entered into an environmental framework agreement with the United States and established an Environmental Fund to receive local currency payments; call for the establishment of a local body in each country to administer the resources in the Environmental Fund; and establish an Environment for the Americas Board in Washington, chaired by Treasury and including 4 other USG representatives and 4 NGO representatives. We are working with OMB to draft an Executive Order spelling out implementation of this provision of the Farm Bill consistent with earlier Administration discussions. We will be pushing hard in January to gain the authority to reduce AID debt, as well as to sell Eximbank and CCC paper and to make contributions to the multilateral investment fund in the Inter-American Development Bank. Status of Enterprise for the Americas Legislation We gained authority in the Farm Bill to reduce PL-480 debt and to establish a mechanism to channel local currency interest payments to fund environmental projects in Latin American and Caribbean countries. Similar legislation to authorize reduction of AID debt passed the House but was not acted on in the Senate. Action on a stand-alone bill was impeded by concerns of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee -- particularly Senator Helms. An effort to insert the authorization in the House bill into the Foreign Operations appropriations bill during conference was unsuccessful due to concerns of staff and an intervention by House Foreign Affairs Committee Chairman Fascell. The EAI provisions in the Farm Bill: establish a Facility in the Treasury Department to administer debt reduction; set out economic conditions for qualification for debt reduction; provide for debt reduction through an exchange of old obligations for new, reduced obligations; allow for payment of interest in local currency if a country has entered into an environmental framework agreement with the United States and established an Environmental Fund to receive local currency payments; call for the establishment of a local body in each country to administer the resources in the Environmental Fund; and establish an Environment for the Americas Board in Washington, chaired by Treasury and including 4 other USG representatives and 4 NGO representatives. We are working with OMB to draft an Executive Order spelling out implementation of this provision of the Farm Bill consistent with earlier Administration discussions. We will be pushing hard in January to gain the authority to reduce AID debt, as well as to sell Eximbank and CCC paper and to make contributions to the multilateral investment fund in the Inter-American Development Bank. HE E5 1982 WH The New - Encyclopædia Britannica in 30 Volumes MICROPÆDIA Volume X Ready Reference and Index FOUNDED 1768 15 TH EDITION Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc. William Benton, Publisher, 1943-1973 Helen Hemingway Benton, Publisher, 1973-1974 Chicago/Geneva/London/Manila/Paris/Rome Seoul/Sydney/Tokyo/Toronto Valois, Dame Ninette de: see de Valois, The Juan Fernández Islands (q.v.) in the Pa- 343 valuation Dame Ninette. cific are administered from Valparaíso. Pop. Valois dynasty, royal house of France from (1979 est.) 712,110. 1328 to 1589, ruling from the end of the feu- area and population table 4:251 east of Gary. Settled in 1834, it was a point on dal period into the early modern age. The Valparaíso, capital of Valparaíso province, the old Sauk Trail, used by Sauk Indians trav- Valois kings continued the work of unifying Chile, on the south side of a broad, open bay elling to Detroit to collect annuities from the France and centralizing royal power that was of the Pacific, on the slopes of a spur of the British for services in the War of 1812. Val- begun under their predecessors, the Cape- coastal mountain range that ends in the rocky paraiso lies in an area that produces dairy tians. The early kings of the dynasty were OC- peninsula of Punta Angeles. products and popcorn seed. Manufactures in- cupied primarily with fighting the Hundred clude magnets, steel products, automobile ac- Years' War (1337-1453), which broke out un- cessories, food-processing machinery, and der the first Valois, Philip VI (reigned 1328- electrical specialties. It is the site of Val- 50). During this period the monarchy was paraiso University (1859; Lutheran Church— threatened both by the English, who at times Missouri Synod) and Sloan Galleries of controlled much of France, and by the revived American Paintings. Pines Ski Area, Indiana strength of feudal lords, such as the Arma- Dunes State Park, Indiana Dunes National gnac and Burgundian factions. Charles VII Lakeshore, and Flint Lake are nearby. Inc. (reigned 1422-61) met these threats and began 1865. Pop. (1980) 22,247. the task of restoring royal power. 41°28' N, 87°03' W The Valois kings gradually increased their Val-Saint-Lambert, town, Liège province, authority at the expense of the feudal lords. The crown's exclusive right to levy taxes and Belgium, a centre of the glassmaking industry. 50°35' N, 5°29' E to wage war was established. So successful ware characteristics 8:195c were the Valois in consolidating their position The harbour, Valparaíso, Chile that they (especially Louis XI, reigned 1461- Walter Valsalva manoeuvre, forcing the breath 83) are regarded as the originators of royal against a closed glottis valve, and so raising absolutism in France. Many of the basic ad- Valparaíso was founded in 1536 by a con- the pressure in the lungs. ministrative institutions of the French mon- quistador, Juan de Saavedra, who named it ear pressure relief techniques 5:1121e archy that had begun to develop under the for his birthplace in Spain. Few colonial intrapulmonic pressure limit 15:748g Capetians continued to evolve under the buildings have survived a succession of pirate Valois; for example, the parlements (courts) raids, severe storms, fires, and earthquakes. Valtellina, German VELTLIN, in northern It- were extended throughout France to dispense After Chilean independence was gained in aly, upper valley of the Adda River from its royal justice. 1818 and the Spanish mercantile monopoly sources in the Ortles mountain group west- Their strong position in France enabled three was broken, the port developed with the Chil- ward to its entry into Lake Como, largely in of the Valois kings (Charles VIII, reigned ean navy and the links created by steamship Sondrio province, Lombardy region. It is en- 1483-98; Louis XII, reigned 1498-1515; and services to Europe. Much of the city was re- closed by the Bernina Alps (north), the Ortles Francis I, reigned 1515-47) to undertake the built after a devastating earthquake in 1906; (northeast), and the Orobie Alps (south) and ultimately unsuccessful Italian wars. These many buildings were again severely damaged traversed by good roads over four well- wars marked the start of Valois rivalry with in the great earthquake of 1971. The commer- marked Alpine passes; the Stelvio (9,048 ft the imperial Habsburgs, a rivalry which lasted cial quarter, with its harbour works, ware- [2,757 m]), the Bernina (7,621 ft [2,322 m]), until the end of the French dynasty. houses, banks, and shopping centre, occupies the Aprica (3,858 ft [1,176 m]), and the Um- The French Renaissance occurred during the reclaimed land adjacent to the bay, as do the brail (9,944 ft [3,031 m]). Historically the reigns of Francis I and Henry II (reigned administrative buildings grouped around the southern part of ancient Raetia (q.v.; 1547-59). The Wars of Religion (1562-98) Plaza Sotomayor. The cathedral, parks, Rhaetia), the valley was disputed between Mi- weakened the power of the last Valois kings, boulevards, theatres, cafes, and a few colonial lan and the bishops of Como from the 6th to for militant Roman Catholic and Protestant buildings, notably the church of La Matriz, the 13th century and between Milan and the factions dominated politics. After the death of are also concentrated in this lower part of the Swiss canton of Graubünden in the 16th and Henry III in 1589, the House of Bourbon, in city. The buildings of the Chilean naval acade- 17th centuries. It belonged to Graubünden the person of Henry IV, succeeded the Valois my and residential quarters are located on the from 1639 until 1797 and, after being domi- as the ruling house of France. steep slopes and valleys of encircling hills, nated by the French during the Napoleonic Charles V's European power struggle 4:49a with an agglomeration of poorer dwellings Wars, passed to Austrian Lombardy; it was Francis I's reign and accomplishments 7:683h and shacks occupying the highest parts. joined to the Kingdom of Italy in 1859. The French international and domestic Funicular railways, elevators, steps, and zig- population is Italian-speaking and Catholic policies 7:622g zag roads connect the lower city with the up- French religious and dynastic struggle 15:553f within the diocese of Como. The fertile valley per. Although Valparaíso is Chile's second genealogical comparison with Bourbons supports varied agriculture, forestry, and live- largest city, its population is growing relative- 3:79e; table ly slowly, for the adjacent tourist resort of stock raising. Famous for its wines, the Valtel- Hundred Years' War involvement 9:16b; Viña del Mar increasingly functions as a resi- lina has also become important for its hydro- table 17 dential suburb. electric plants. Tourism is an increasingly sig- Joan of Arc's role in sustaining reign 10:226c John the Fearless of Burgundy's role 10:243c Valparaíso is pre-eminently commercial and nificant economic factor. The chief towns are medieval hegemony 12:141g industrial; there are foundries as well as facto- Sondrio, Tirano, Chiavenna, Morbegno, and Richemont's support of Charles VII 15:834f ries that produce chemicals, textiles, sugar, Bormio. Pop. (1970 est.) 127,824. Valona (Albania): see Vlora. paints, clothing, leather goods, and vegetable 46°11' N, 9°55' E oils. Most Chilean imports enter through the Richelieu's foreign policy 15:832b Valparaíso, province, Aconcagua region, port of Valparaíso; though its exports repre- strategic areas in Thirty Years' War 18:338c sent only a small fraction of the value of the Switzerland's Reformation effects 17:882d central Chile, on the Pacific Ocean (west). Created in 1842 with boundaries established Chilean total, its significance in internal mari- Valuable Hints on Playwriting, Japanese in 1927, it was reorganized again in 1974. Its time communications is paramount. It is also KEZAIROKU (1801), work by Namiki Shozo II. area is 1,058 sq mi (2,739 sq km), and it is a cultural centre and the site of the "Federico texts on Kabuki theatre 10:368b bounded by the provinces of Quillota in the Santa María" Technical University (estab- north and San Antonio in the lished 1926), the Catholic University of Val- valuation, in economics, process of setting a paraíso (1928), and the Natural History and monetary value on property or goods for such and Santiago Metropolitan Area The province embraces the Fine Arts museums. purposes as taxation, corporate reorganiza- other west- State railways connect Valparaíso by elec- tion, public utility rate regulation, litigation, www.draing lowlands whend www.draining loadands.win dairy cattle trified line with the national capital, Santiago, or national income accounting. vineyard, orchard, truck (market), and 115 mi (185 km) southeast, and by steam lines accounting problem of measuring asset grain crops are raised. The province is second with all the important cities and ports of Chile value 1:38c onlying Santiago in industrial development; from Pisagua to Puerto Montt. The city is the defense-spending measurement western terminus of the Transandine Railway problems 19:552a ment, The clothing, processed foods, and tobacco. products are textiles, chemicals, ce- and thus has direct overland connection with GNP and inventory measurement Concón petroleum refinery and Quintero Buenos Aires, Arg. Good highways run to the problems 3:800f farms are Chile's most resort towns north and south and to Santiago. income tax problem of taxing capital also has several popu- Internal airlines link the city with other parts gains 9:274g of Chile. Pop. (1979 est.) commune, 270,111. inheritance tax problem of estate Highways tres and an electrified railway link the resorts, notably Viña del Mar (q.v.). 33°02' S, 71°38' W valuation 5:531a passim to 532b national income accounting methods 12:850c to the provincial capital, Val- map, Chile 4:248 the Highway and port establishment and trade increase 4:256a price indexes measuring foreign THE by earthquake in 1971. THE It was investment 14:1003c railroad through Santiago as outlet to Pacific Ocean 16:233a property tax assessment technique 15:57g Valparaiso, city, seat of Porter County, public utility revenue requirement northwestern Indiana, U.S., just east-south- formula 15:219e CHILE: WISH LIST Concrete examples of how freer trade, lower tariffs, and liberalized investment will benefit the Chilean economy. (E.g., examples of goods or economic sectors that would benefit). Examples of Chilean goods/products that suffer most in the current trade climate. Chile is already well ahead of the other LatAm nations POTUS will be visiting in terms of a functioning free market economy. (Could use additional statistics on economic performance, beyond current 10% growth rate.) What next step could/should Chile take to expand trade? (E.g., are we looking for strong Chilean support at the Uruguay Round? Do we envision a framework trade agreement, as outlined in Enterprise for the Americas initiative?) For color: Chilean proverbs -- on guests, travel; on future, friendship, etc. Info on geography of Chile, regional characteristics. Well- known natural wonders, historic sites. Quotes from and/or general background info on well-known Chilean poets, patriots (O'Higgins, etc.) IF SPEECH IS DELIVERED AT VALPARAISO -- Historical background and significance of Valparaiso, reason for situating new legislature there, etc. CHILE: WISH LIST Concrete examples of how freer trade, lower tariffs, and liberalized investment will benefit the Chilean economy. (E.g., examples of goods or economic sectors that would benefit). Examples of Chilean goods/products that suffer most in the current trade climate. Chile is already well ahead of the other LatAm nations POTUS will be visiting in terms of a functioning free market economy. (Could use additional statistics on economic performance, beyond current 10% growth rate.) What next step could/should Chile take to expand trade? (E.g., are we looking for strong Chilean support at the Uruguay Round? Do we envision a framework trade agreement, as outlined in Enterprise for the Americas initiative?) For color: Chilean proverbs -- on guests, travel; on future, friendship, etc. Info on geography of Chile, regional characteristics. Well- known natural wonders, historic sites. Quotes from and/or general background info on well-known Chilean poets, patriots (O'Higgins, etc.) IF SPEECH IS DELIVERED AT VALPARAISO -- Historical background and significance of Valparaiso, reason for situating new legislature there, etc. Lake Peqg. am ussumng we're around to yet very busy about her - we get our friends The? at State can working Thad Dar on some of nak Roberta Jacobson 647-9393 America The of Gi idebooks' No South America b Our are honest, accurate best pos ible travel companions. Gow Featured in this guide What to see and do in 13 countries South America Top hotels, resorts, and country inns The best restaurants and cafés for sam Including Adventures off the beaten track Antarctica and Where to buy traditional crafts Everything you need to know befo the Galápagos Islands Lively essays on culture and histor 39 pages of maps 51595 Ref. 9 780679019657 F2211 ISBN 0-679-01965-0 F63 US $15.95 UK £12.99 CAN $21.50 1991 WH O 6 SOUTH AMERICA SOUTH AMERICA AT A GLANCE 7 Rio de Janeiro also says Brazil to many people, with its spectacular bay- lunch at an outdoor cafe, or an afternoon of shopping for nandutí, the side setting, fabulous beaches, skimpy string bikinis, and riotous Carnival country's uniquely beautiful and intricate spiderweb lace. The real Para- celebration. But Brazil goes much beyond its beaches and proffered exotic guay, however, is found in the countryside, where motorcycles and transis- pleasures. It is a world of skyscrapers, stock markets, and agro-business tor radios are just now starting to compete with ox carts and traditional carried out in megalopolises like São Paulo and Belo Horizonte by the sons polca music in the hearts and minds of the rural people. The country's and daughters of industrious Lebanese, Eastern European, German, Ital- original inhabitants were the Guaraní Indians, and nowhere else did the ian, and Japanese immigrants. Like the United States, Brazil has wel- Spaniards actually marry comely Indian maidens the way they did in Para- comed emigrés from all over the world. In return, they have applied their guay. The result was a blending of European and Indian traits to a degree knowledge and skills toward making their adopted homeland a major in- dustrial nation. unknown elsewhere in the hemisphere. But when it came to language, the people's preference for Guaraní prevailed, and the government actually Brazil's greatest treasure, however, is perhaps one of its least well known. Far away from crowded condominiums and rush hour traffic jams, recognized it as an official language along with Spanish. camouflaged until the very last minute by a canopy of forest green, lies Mission ruins near Encarnación are another impressive reminder of the Iguaçu Falls. These awesome cataracts-some 300 separate falls in all- Guaraní legacy. It was there that Jesuit priests converted the Indians and thunder over a two-and-a-half-mile-wide precipice on the border between organized a unique communal society. Several of the lovely missions, Brazil and Argentina. Though Iguaçu is off the beaten path, over a million abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, are being restored tourists visit each year. None goes away disappointed. Beginning at the today under the auspices of international organizations. top of a hill crowned by the luxurious rose-colored Hotel das Cataratas, Leaving Paraguay at Encarnación and crossing the river into Argentina a walkway twists down the side of the gorge, affording views of the rushing brings one suddenly back into the twentieth century, if not the twenty- cascades that become more magnificent at every turn. Myriad rainbows first. This is the continent's second-largest country, and the scenery- large and small dance in clouds of mist, and thousands of butterflies in ranging from the snowy heights of the Andes in the west to the flat grassy glittering jewel tones chase each other about like playful puppies, alighting pampas along the Atlantic coast-is spectacular. Such stunning visual ef- affectionately on passersby. Mimicking giant dragonflies, helicopters fects, combined with romantic notions of handsome gauchos dancing the hover in the air as well, offering passengers a breathtaking bird's-eye view seductive tango, create a mystique that has been lost on few foreigners. of the watery wonderland. These stereotypes fade immediately, however, when visitors take their first walk along Buenos Aires's classy Calle Florida, sit down to tea in an ele- The Land of Gauchos and Guarani gant confitería, or attend an opera at the world famous Teatro Colón. The Porteños, as residents of Buenos Aires are called, are as educated, sophisti- Ultimately, the fertile farmlands of southern Brazil become the gently cated, and urbane as anyone on earth. Their cosmopolitan city never rolling hills and grasslands of Uruguay, the second smallest country in sleeps-or so it seems. Dinner is often eaten at midnight, and the streets South America. Ninety percent of the land is used for grazing, and Uru- are still full of people when one leaves the restaurant at 2 A.M. Some 42 guayans are justifiably proud of their fine beef cattle. The country's beach- theaters, 200 movie houses, 150 parks, and an untold number of museums es, too, are among the best in the southern part of South America. Without and galleries provide pastimes for a population in perpetual motion. even leaving Montevideo, Uruguay's gracious capital, visitors can sample Although most residents of Buenos Aires are curiously out of touch more than a half a dozen that fringe the city's sparkling waterfront. But with life in the country's provinces, no tourist should leave Argentina surely the most fashionable beach is located 85 miles to the east at Punta without visiting the wine country of Mendoza, the ski resort of Bariloche, del Este, a haven for well-heeled vacationers from many foreign countries, or the Valdez Peninsula where thousands of enormous seals bask on peb- especially nearby Argentina. Often called the Riviera of South America, bled beaches. The pace is slower, the people more open, and the culture this famous resort is also a popular site for international conferences and easier to appreciate away from the capital city's constant commotion. movie festivals. Visitors should be sure to include an excursion to Colonia Suiza, origi- Charming Chile nally a Swiss settlement. The most remarkable aspect of Uruguay for most travelers, however, is surely its people. Well educated yet unpretentious, Leapfrogging the colossal Andes, a capsule tour of South America's industrious yet relaxed, the Uruguayans differ sharply in manner from the west coast begins in Chile, which-like Argentina-immediately strikes more worldly Argentines living just on the other side of the River Plate. the visitor as very cosmopolitan. Due to an influx of European immigrants But before rushing on to explore the vast reaches of Argentina, the in the nineteenth century, names like O'Higgins and Martin are quite com- world's eighth-largest country, a look at landlocked Paraguay is certainly mon for blue-eyed, blond Chileans who converse easily in German, En- in order. Visitors to this largely undiscovered and unspoiled land enter glish, or Spanish. They are a handsome, stylish people known for their a world where time and tradition have stood still for generations. Only openness and hospitality. recently, with the construction of Itaipú Dam (a joint venture with Brazil This 2,650-mile-long ribbon of a country averages only 110 miles in that produced the world's largest hydroelectric plant) has the nation begun width. From north to south it cuts across five distinct ranges of soil and to emerge from the nineteenth century. While this means that it may be climate, producing a variety of exceptional scenic attractions. In the arid short on extravagant facilities for tourists, it is long on charm and authen- north is the Atacama Desert, so dry that in some areas no rain has ever ticity missing today in many other parts of South America. been recorded. Next come the copper mines and rich nitrate deposits, fol- Some would say Asunción is a provincial capital, and its pleasures are lowed by the fertile central valley where Santiago, the capital city, is locat- indeed simple ones-a stroll through the Botanical Gardens, a leisurely ed. The beautiful lake and forest region is below that, with outstanding 8 SOUTH AMERICA SOUTH AMERICA AT A GLANCE 9 fishing and skiing. Finally, in the extreme south lies cold, forbidding, wind- never discovered by the Spaniards. The maze of temples, houses, terraces, swept Tierra del Fuego. and stairways lay abandoned in lofty solitude until Hiram Bingham, later Known for its award-winning wines and excellent seafood, Chile is also a U.S. senator, stumbled upon the forgotten city in 1911. Today, along justly famous for the resort city of Viña del Mar, with its wide, white sandy with Iguaçu Falls, Machu Picchu is considered by many to be South beaches and year-round casino overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Jet-set ski- America's greatest wonder. ers from the United States and Europe often prefer the championship If the gems of Peru's Inca past are locked away on the altiplano, then slopes at Portillo, outside Santiago, where they can schuss during summer its capital, Lima, is the safekeeper of its colonial treasures. Perhaps no months when snows melt in the Northern Hemisphere. Huge, mysterious other city in the Americas enjoyed such power and prestige during the moai statues await tourists looking for a different type of adventure on height of the colonial era. For an entirely different side of Peru, travelers Chile's Easter Island, the world's most remote inhabited isle. should also try Iquitos, where the sounds of the Amazon jungle are ever present. Once a difficult journey, efficient air service has now made this The Barren, Beautiful Altiplano region as accessible as the highlands. Bolivia may share the Andes with its neighbor Chile, but otherwise the two adjoining countries seem worlds apart. Maybe it is because Chile has Heavenly Highlands thousands of miles of Pacific coastline, while Bolivia is completely land- Like Bolivia and Peru, Ecuador also has highlands that can be com- locked. Whereas Chile has been accessible to many different groups of im- pared only to Shangri-La. Though a tiny country, it nonetheless claims migrants, Bolivia's isolated population has remained predominantly indig- many of the Hemisphere's most impressive volcanoes. A patchwork quilt enous. Whereas Chile seems cosmopolitan, Bolivia feels very foreign. And of terraced plots in a thousand shades of green covers the lower slopes this quite tangible otherworldliness adds to its great appeal. of these cloud-capped peaks, where corn grows twice as tall as the sturdy Visitors are often giddy upon arrival in La Paz, perhaps with relief at peasant farmers who till the fertile soil. having landed safely at the world's highest commercial airport, which is Quito, the nation's capital, lies at the foot of mighty Mt. Pichincha. It perched just above the world's highest capital city. More likely it is soro- is one of the best examples of Spanish colonial architecture anywhere in che, a dizziness caused by the lack of oxygen in the air at 13,000 feet. A South America, with winding cobblestone streets, red-tile roofs, and or- pleasant coca-leaf tea (or a tiny pill purchased at any pharmacy) usually nately decorated churches typical of many towns in Spain. Just 15 miles solves the problem soon enough and one is ready to explore this land of outside the city, visitors enjoy having their picture taken as they straddle the Quechua-speaking Indians, descendants of the Inca civilization that the Equator at a monument indicating the dividing line between the disappeared over 1,000 years ago. Not to be missed are the ruins of Tiahua- Northern and Southern Hemisphere. naco (Tiwanacu), a 50-mile ride from La Paz across the barren yet amaz- Ecuador's exquisite handicrafts rival its natural beauty, and they are ingly beautiful altiplano, the high plateau more than 600 miles long and found in wondrous profusion in market towns throughout the highlands. 60 miles wide between two ranges of the Andes. Although the ruins are The coastal region and its bustling port city of Guayaquil also have much shrouded in mystery, some researchers believe Tiahuanaco may have been to offer, and the most memorable way to get there from Quito is by rail. the cradle of American man dating back some 7,000 years. The Bolivian When in operation, the train maneuvers its way up and down mountain people today still practice ancient customs and traditions, including the passes by a series of switchbacks on narrow-gauge tracks to reach its desti- use of endearing doe-eyed llamas as beasts of burden. nation in the steamy lowlands. Guayaquil is a great commercial center, Making up for having no access to the Pacific Ocean, Bolivia boasts and also serves as the departure point for planes and ships to the enchant- Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. Upon this huge ing Galápagos Islands. inland sea-100 miles long and up to 50 miles wide-sail-sleek modern In bordering Colombia, this tour comes full circle around the continent. yachts alongside Indians in their traditional gondola-shaped boats made Sometimes called "the corner of South America," it is the only country of totora reeds. Crossing the deep-blue lake on a whirring hydrofoil is cer- to have beaches on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. As in Ecuador, tainly an unforgettable way to reach the shores of neighboring Peru. Colombia's major cities lie in different altitudes, creating very different At Puno, on the northwest coast of Titicaca, begins the experience of customs and ways of life. In Bogotá, the capital, at 8,700 feet, there is a a lifetime. From there one takes the train to Cuzco, and beyond that to formality reminiscent of Spain-not just in the conduct of business and the ruins of magnificent Machu Picchu. Knowledgeable world travelers social amenities but also in the Spanish that is spoken, said to be the purest have said that the scenery on this 11-hour ride surpasses that of the Hima- in all of Latin America. However, as one descends 2,000 feet to Medellín, layas. Cuzco itself, once the capital of the Inca empire, is Peru's leading known as "the orchid capital of the world," and another 1,500 feet to Cali, tourist attraction and one of the most interesting cities in the Hemisphere. the heart of the coffee country, and then finally to Cartagena at sea level, Although the Spaniards tried to superimpose their culture on the con- where there is a strong Afro-Caribbean influence shared with neighboring quered Inca, one gets the impression that they succeeded at best only sur- Venezuela, the atmosphere grows progressively more relaxed and infor- face deep. Symbolically, when the 1950 earthquake struck it felled much mal. The music, cuisine, costumes, dialects, and attitudes reflect each re- of the Monastery of Santo Domingo, which had been built over the ruins gion, creating a true "potpourri" that is much of the charm of Colombia. of the sacred Temple of the Sun. However, the inner Inca walls that were revealed withstood the devastating quake. The three-hour trip by rail from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, while exhila- From Pizarro to Pinochet rating, does little to prepare visitors for the marvels of this fantastic hide- If the land and peoples of South America are interesting, its history is away. Thought by many to have been the last refuge of the Inca, it was certainly no less intriguing. Christopher Columbus did not actually dis- CHILE 281 Spanish and Indian are not the only Chilean races. In the battles for independence, the Chileans' leader was named O'Higgins; their Navy was formed by Cochrane. The last three presidents were Alessandri (Italian origin) and Frei (Swiss), and Allende's mother was named Gossens. The former military junta included members named Pinochet and Matthei. Thinking casually of Santiago shops and factories, the names of Küpfer, Haddad, Bercovich, Luchetti, and Mackenzie come easily to mind. They are all Chileans. A Brief History In northern Chile, not far from the great Chuquicamata copper mine, villages of some pre-Inca civilization have been unearthed in their entirety. But no record of who these people were survives. The Incas came later, extending down as far as central Chile and bringing their civilization with them. The native Chilean Indians, the Chango coastal race, the Araucani- ans, the Onas (the last living Ona died early in 1975), and the Alacalufes and Yaghans of the south were all of inferior civilization. It was the cook- ing fires of the Alacalufes that caused sailors to name the southern tip of Chile "Tierra del Fuego" (Land of Fire). The first European to see Tierra del Fuego was Hernando de Magallanes (Magellan in English), who sailed in 1520 through the straits that bear his name today. Around 1535, an expedition under Don Diego de Almagro started down from Cuzco in Peru on the inevitable search for gold and silver. He CHILE reached Santiago-after tramping heedlessly over the copper deposits, which are Chile's mainstay today, and returned empty handed. A further optimist, Don Pedro de Valdivia, a captain under Pizarro, also led an expe- The Atacama, Andes, Antarctica dition. He reached the central zone and in 1541 founded the city known as Santiago del Nuevo Extremo at the foot of a small hill called Huelen (pain) by the Indians. Today this hill is a park in the center of modern By Santiago and is called the Santa Lucia Hill. There for all to read is a stone JIM WOODMAN facsimile of Pedro de Valdivia's letter to his king, praising this new territo- ry, and urging the king to send settlers. His second expedition in 1549, was aimed principally at suppressing the Jim Woodman is editor and publisher of Latin Travel Review, the newspa- Araucanian Indians; but he was captured and, under the orders of per of Latin America's travel industry. For the past 26 years he has been Caupolican, their chief, put to death. An avenging mission under Garcia a frequent visitor and traveler throughout Chile and has been twice decorat- Hurtado de Mendoza fought its way much further south and in turn cap- ed by the Chilean government for his work in tourism. tured and executed Caupolican. A story of the Spaniards' war against the Indians is told in a famous poem "La Araucana" by Alonso de Ercilla y Zuñiga. Visitors will receive a warm welcome from Chileans, who are intensely patriotic and unceasing in their efforts to insure visitors share their opinion Life under the rule of the Viceroyalty in Lima progressed slowly, devel- that Chile is the best country in the world. Foreign tourists who visit Chile oping a farming colony whose coast was forever at the mercy of raiding come mainly from Argentina and Brazil. English and French pirates. Restive under this regime, the criollos (Span- iards born in Chile) began to long for independence, and their first Junta Modern air travel has broken down the barriers that once isolated Chile de Gobierno was formed on September 18, 1810, a date still celebrated from the rest of the world: the snow-capped Andes mountains on one side, in Chile as Independence Day. and 5,000 miles of Pacific coast on the other. The first European invaders When in the following year Jose Miguel Carrera was nominated presi- were the Spanish "Conquistadores," by whom the purely Indian popula- dent, the Viceroy sent an army to crush the upstart "Chileans." Fighting tion was forced farther and farther south, fighting fiercely as they went. continued until 1818 when an army under the Argentine general San Mar- This fighting spirit of the Araucanian Indians most probably accounts tin and Bernardo O'Higgins won the final victory. for the fact that the majority of Chileans are of Spanish descent; in the O'Higgins became Director Supreme, but he got into difficulties as ruler early days few of the Chilean Indians intermarried with the Spanish, un- and finished his life in voluntary exile. He was succeeded by Ramón Freire. like the softer-natured Indians of Peru. Even today, although a quite nota- Still the country remained divided and chaotic until around 1830, when ble Indian strain runs through some sectors of the working classes, mixed Diego Portales won the battle that ended what was virtually civil war. Por- Spanish and Indian blood is rare in the middle and upper classes. tales was shot in a military uprising in 1837, but his victory left Chile tran- 280 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 283 282 quil until 1879, a quiet broken only by Chile's brief alliance with Peru after Wine is both a consumer product and an export item. Certainly the against the Spaniards, which led to the bombardment of Valparaiso, Chileans consume plenty, but France is one of Chile's chief wine custom- due warning, by the Spanish Navy. ers. It is a product worthy of the attention of the most critical and experi- enced wine fancier. All this suggests that Chile definitely falls into the category of a "devel- The Pacific War oping country" and, indeed, it has not been unscathed by the debt crises For some time there had been wrangling with Bolivia over the rich which beleaguer most Latin American nations. Yet, the country continues deposits and later over the nitrate fields in the Atacama desert. Chil- developing, and so does its middle class, including politicians, industrial- guano eans began to work these deposits under the most grievous conditions and ists, artists, professional men and women, engineers, scientists and doc- the burden of a ruinous tax. Threatened by Bolivia with embargo of the tors. Women have equal opportunity in Chile and rise to high posts in factories, the Chilean government took a hand, and in February 1879 the the central administration, education, and business. Chilean army landed at Antofagasta and captured the town. The War of the Pacific had begun. Peru allied herself with Bolivia, and the fighting Arts and Artists continued for four angry years, until Chile finally emerged victorious in 1883. Chile acquired the Bolivian provinces of Antofagasta and Tarapaca Thus, it comes as no surprise that one of the two most important poets and the Peruvian provinces of Tacna and Arica. Chile later (1929) re- was a woman: Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral, the pen name of a turned Tacna to Peru, but retained Arica. The 1883 treaty cost Bolivia former provincial school teacher, Lucila Godoy. The other Chilean Nobel her sea coast; an outlet corridor is sporadically being negotiated by Chile, Prize was awarded to Pablo Neruda (whose real name was Neftali Reyes), who came home to die in 1973 from his ambassadorial post in Paris. Bolivia, and Peru. The nitrates brought great wealth to Chile but not political stability. Chilean artists have exhibited in several of the world's capitals: Juan Communicate In 1891, there was another civil war, this time between pro-Congress and Francisco Gonzalez, Alfredo Valenzuela, Camilo Mori, Roberto Matta, pro-presidential factions. The former won, and the president (Balmaceda) and sculptors Nicanor Plaza and Rebeca Matta. Among internationally known musicians are violinist Alfonso Montecinos and pianists Rosita Re- committed suicide. The elections of 1970 ushered in sweeping reforms in Chilean politics nard and Claudio Arrau, the latter recognized as one of the best living and life. The Marxist Unidad Popular party, headed by Salvador Allende interpreters of Beethoven. Gossens, embarked on an ambitious program to restructure the entire Chilean economy. Policies included tax reform, land redistribution, an The Way of Life overhaul of the banking system, and nationalization of major industrial concerns, including the American copper giants Kennecott and Anacon- Chile is European in character, population, and culture. Chileans are by nature friendly and traditionally give a hearty welcome to foreign visi- da. tors. Mismanagement of social programs and violence by pro-Allende ex- tremists alienated many Chileans, and opposition to the regime was stri- Chileans are family oriented. Most entertaining is done in homes with family and friends. The best place to see Chileans on holiday is during dent, particularly among the country's elites and armed forces. In Septem- ber 1973, the heads of the Army, Navy, and Air Force, aided by Chilean the summer months of January and February when everyone who possibly carabineros and backed secretly by the CIA, staged a gory coup. In the can goes to one of the immensely popular Pacific coast resorts. In winter the ski resorts are the destination and from June through Oc- course of widespread torture and execution of Unidad Popular supporters, tober one will find the affluent Chilean on the slopes. Allende was killed; the insurgents claimed, not very plausibly, that he had committed suicide. A four-man military junta-los Generales, as they are called in Chile— ruled the country until 1989, when a new president and a new Congress were elected by popular vote. Chile today enjoys a stable political climate under their traditional democratic system. With the healthiest and most dynamic economy in Latin America, the country has succeeded at attract- ing a good amount of foreign investment. The Economy Today Chile is still the world's greatest producer of natural nitrates and their by-product, iodine. The nitrates are coming into their own once again as petroleum-based synthetic fertilizers experience heavy cost increases. In all, Chile heads the list of mineral producers in Latin America with two- thirds of the total, including copper, coal, iron, gold, silver, oil, manganese, lithium, and sulphur. Forestry products-pulp, logs, sawn wood, and manufactured goods— constitute the second largest export item. 284 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 285 PERU FACTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS BOLIVIA Arica Pisagua WHAT IT WILL COST. A first-class hotel room in Santiago will run between CHILE Tirana Iquique Chuquicamata Tocopilla Chiu-Chia, PARAGUAY $70 and $80 for a double room, and a moderately-priced meal for two around $30. ATACAMA DE SERT, PANAMERICAN Single rooms outside Santiago cost from $20 to $30 for respectable, clean accommo- dations. Single meals run from $3 to $6. There are good car rental companies San Pedro de Atacama throughout Chile. A couple driving within Chile today would average $30 for meals Calama Toconao and $35 for lodging per day. In a car averaging 20 miles to the gallon, the cost Antofagasta to travel 100 miles would be about $11 (with insurance). Taltal ANDES MTNS SOURCE OF INFORMATION. For information on all aspects of Chile the Chil- Chañaral ean National Tourist Office SERNATUR is invaluable. They offer excellent, factual travel planning free for the asking. Write: SERNATUR, Providencia 1550, Santia- Caldera Copiapó go, Chile. In the U.S., the airlines LAN-Chile and LADECO can provide informa- Huasco tion and brochures on travel in Chile. Vallemar La Serena Coquimba ARGENTINA WHEN TO GO. Because of Chile's unique geography, almost every climate can Tongay be found within its boundaries. Santiago's pleasant climate is similar to Southern Andacollo Los Vilos Portillo California's, except that it has more rain. When to go depends on whether you want Pichidangui Viña del Mar to ski or to fish for trout and swim. The cold season is from May to Oct.; warm Valparaiso weather is from Oct. to Apr. The high tourist season along the coast and at beach El Quisco Puente resorts runs from about Dec. to Mar. Cartagena Maipo Alto San Antonio Pomaire Melipilla Constitución, WHAT TO TAKE. The visitor must remember that Chile is south of the equator, Rancagua Talchuana Talca that the ski season is during the Northern Hemisphere summer, and that swimming Chillán and fishing season is when the northern countries are freezing. Concepción aja Lake Unless visiting the Antarctic, expect temperate weather. From Santiago to the Los Angeles Lake Colico Temuco Lake Villarica south, however, waterproof clothing is needed due to year-round unpredictable Lake Calafquen rains. Santiago and Viña del Mar have rainy spells in winter; with the exception Lake Panguipulli Valdivia of coastal areas, the former has no rain in summer. Lake Rinihue Osorno Lake Pirehueico Briefly, city wear is much the same as for any temperate country. For women, Puerto Varas Lake Ranco suits and dresses, slacks and pants suits; for men, suits and ties. PACIFIC OCEAN Puerto Montt Lake Puyehue In resort areas, sports clothes are acceptable during the day, and a suit is usual Castro Lake Rupanco GULF Lake Todos los Santos for men at night. Women shouldn't wear shorts in the cities, although they are com- Lake Llanquihue mon in resort areas. SPECIAL EVENTS. The Santiago, Valparaiso, and Viña del Mar opera, theater, ANDES MTNS ATLANTIC OCEAN and ballet season runs from April to November. The International Song Festival (February) in Viña del Mar is truly international. Held in a magnificent natural amphitheater. Mainly for the young. An industrial and agricultural exhibition held in Santiago in October also fea- tures some very fancy riding by Chilean "huasos" (cowboys) and the Carabineros "Green Team," a cossack-type exhibition riding group. CHILEAN SEA MAGALLANES The two main horse races of the year are the Derby (Viña del Mar, January) Puerto STRAIT and "El Ensayo" (Santiago, October). Natales OF MAGELLAN The national golf championship is held in Viña del Mar in January, and interna- Punta Arenas TIERRA tional golf events continue through March. DEL FUEGO July brings the Feast of the Virgen del Carmen, patron saint of Chile's armed forces. After the decisive battle for Chile's independence, Bernardo O'Higgins ("the MAP NOT TO SCALE father of the country") promised to build a temple on the site in Maipú. The impos- Cape Horn ing building was completed only in 1975. The same Virgen del Carmen is celebrated in La Tirana in the north near Iquique, and that of the Virgen del Rosario in Andacollo near La Serena in the middle north. Both these feasts have in common oriental-style costumes and dancing by teams, which practice all year to oriental-sounding music played on strange traditional instruments. The origin of this touch of the East is unknown. These very pictur- esque ceremonies, which last a week starting on July 16, command audiences of over a hundred thousand visitors from all over the world, who camp on the hillsides. 286 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 287 September 18th is Independence Day, and on September 19th the armed forces larly evident in the provinces, where it is not uncommon to see the owner or the stage their big parade in the Parque O'Higgins, attended by the President and minis- manager sit down to dinner with the guests. ters and diplomatic corps. For the country in general, "El Dieciocho" (the 18th) The real problem with hotels is not in their quality but in their quantity. Many is mainly a drinking holiday, with much red wine and Chicha (a fermented grape truly marvelous places in Chile are almost unknown because the facilities for people drink which tastes innocent but isn't) accompanied by "empanadas." to visit them simply do not exist. Progress has been slow in this sense. World speed-skiing championships are held occasionally in Portillo. The world Chile's Tourist Department has bestowed its luxury classification on a few hotels speed skiing record was broken on the Portillo slopes. in the country. As these are scattered, almost any region will have at least one. Some Association football season is from early spring right through summer, with a of them, as much because of their natural setting as their architectural beauty, are break in January and February. The twice yearly contests between the two major fabulous. The Hotel Portillo, for instance, is located at the famous ski resort and universities, called "Clasicos," feature an elaborately produced show on the field between June and September offers some of the world's most beautiful snowscapes, before the games. plus a beautiful frozen-over lagoon. In January is the International Horsemanship Championship in Viña del Mar, Throughout this chapter hotels have been classified according to price for double where some first-class riding can be seen. Chileans usually carry off the honors, occupancy accommodations as follows: Deluxe, $75 and up; Expensive, $50-$75; although the show is international. Moderate, $25-$50; Inexpensive, below $25. Hotels in the provinces are generally moderate to inexpensive. Hotels are all EP and with 16 percent tax over quoted TRAVEL DOCUMENTS AND CUSTOMS. Passports are required of all visitors rates. Resort areas have reduced tariffs during the off-season (mid-Mar. to mid- except nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay, who need only their Nov.). Advance bookings are essential in the resort areas. national identity cards. Visitors under 18 may be included on their parents' pass- ports, but if traveling alone they need both individual passports and authorization RESTAURANTS. Traditionally, the Chilean is a homebody. Entertaining is from their legal guardians. Visas are not required except for citizens of African done in the home. For this reason, Santiago was, until a few years ago, a very diffi- countries, stateless persons, and citizens of countries with which Chile has no diplo- cult town to paint red. The normal hour to begin dinner, either at home or in a matic relations. Carriers will supply the obligatory Tourist Card, valid for 90 days restaurant, still remains 9-9:30 P.M., or later. and renewable up to 180 days. This must be handed in upon leaving the country. The tourist can find plenty of amusements, no matter how long his stay. Of Onward or return passages should be confirmed as soon as possible after arrival. course, most of this activity is centered in Santiago, but Viña del Mar and Valparai- A smallpox vaccination certificate is no longer required for new arrivals to Chile. so have their own fine offerings, especially in the busy summer season. In all three Tourists may bring in personal belongings, 400 cigarettes, 400 grammes of tobac- cities there is a noticeable lack of nightclubs; most places offer fine meals as well co, 50 cigars, two open bottles of perfume, two liters of alcoholic beverages, and as opportunities to dance, and many have their own floorshows. The price ranges, gifts. On leaving the country, they may take souvenirs and handicrafts not exceed- given for a complete meal for one person, are: Expensive, $20 and up; Moderate, ing $500 in value. $15-$20; Inexpensive, below $15. A meal at dining/dancing restaurants, nightclubs, Health Certificates are not required for entry into Chile. and discotheques runs anywhere from $5-$35. A service charge is no longer added There is a $12.50 airport tax payable upon departure. to the bill in restaurants, but a tip is expected for good service (10 percent is custom- ary). GETTING TO CHILE. By air. Eastern, Pan Am, LAN-Chile and Ladeco offer direct service from Miami to Santiago. Ladeco offers direct service from Miami to Chilean Food and Drink. Chile is a cosmopolitan country, and this is strongly Arica. Also Avianca, Ecuatoriana, LAB, LAP, and AeroPeru serve Santiago from reflected in her food and drink. Santiago, for instance, is filled with French, Chinese, the USA. Canadian Pacific offers service from Canada via Mexico. Italian, and Spanish restaurants, among those offering other international cuisines. From Europe, there is Air France from Paris; Alitalia from Rome; Iberia from But the real charm of wining and dining in the capital-or in any of Chile's cities— Madrid; KLM from Amsterdam; Lufthansa from Frankfurt; Swissair from Geneva lies in the great quantity of foods and beverages that are typically Chilean. and Zurich; and Varig from London, Frankfurt, Paris, and Madrid. LAN-Chile also There are a number of typical dishes that generally go over well with visitors. flies to Madrid and to Easter Island and Tahiti for connections to Australia and The highly flavorful dishes are for the most part rather simple to prepare and can the Far East. be made back home fairly easily. By sea. Chile can be reached by boat through any of its major seaports. Principal At the head of the list comes the Empanada. A very unsuitable translation would point of arrival is Valparaíso, one of the busiest ports on the Pacific Coast. The be meat pie, but at least that gives some sort of idea. Inside a flour pastry shaped steamship companies reaching Chile are many and their services varied, but some like a small turnover goes a combination of meat and onions cut into small pieces, of the most important ones are Compañia Sud Americana de Vapores from New hard-boiled egg, raisins, and olives. The "pie" is baked in a hot oven until the crust York and the main ports of Europe; Delta Line, from the United States via the Pana- is somewhat hardened and is generally served with red wine as the first course of ma Canal; and Royal Netherlands S.S. Co. from Rotterdam and Le Havre. a meal. It can also be made using chicken or fish as the staple ingredient. By train. From La Paz, Bolivia, there are railways to Arica. Humitas are made from corn-the first of the season, since it must be tender. By road. The Pan American Highway enters Chile through Arica. The Chilean The corn is ground into a paste, seasoned, then wrapped in corn husks. These small portion is entirely paved, but a few poor stretches remain. TEPSA buses come to bundles are then placed in a pot of boiling water for almost an hour. Separate the Chile from as far north as Ecuador. husks, and you have a Chilean dish, rather like the Mexican tamales but seldom so highly seasoned. CURRENCY. Local currency is the peso. Banking hours are from 9 A.M. to 2 Pastel de Choclo (freely translated as "corn pie") is something of a cross between P.M., Mon. through Fri. All banks have a foreign exchange section, but some work an Empanada and a Humita. The same pino (small pieces of meat, onions, raisins, only in dollars. There is no obligation to exchange foreign currency for pesos upon and boiled egg) used in the Empanada are placed in an earthenware oven dish and arrival. At press time the exchange rate was approximately 300 pesos to the dollar. topped with pieces of chicken and ground corn. The mixture is baked until the corn Prices, unless noted otherwise, are in U.S. dollars. is brownish in color, then served hot. The Cazuela de Ave is a kind of souped-up soup. It contains rice, corn, green HOTELS. Chile offers excellent accommodations that meet high international beans, chicken, carrots, pumpkin, salt, and a number of herbs. After the mixture standards. Several hotels in Santiago and throughout the country rate a luxury clas- is boiled, it is served piping hot, often as the second course of a Chilean luncheon sification. In all regions of Chile, whatever hotels may lack in facilities is more than after the Empanada. Known as a common man's dish, it is often served in the best made up by comfortable, homey atmosphere. Chile's famous hospitality is particu- households as well. 288 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 289 Bife a lo Pobre is the name for a steak poor Chileans used to eat, but these days for it never is. Commonest probably is the cocktail Pisco Sour, made with pisco, it would be difficult for a poor man to afford one. (Some have suggested the name lemon juice, and sugar shaken together in ice and then made frothy by the addition be changed to Bife a lo Rico.) It is a big steak with fried potatoes and onions, and of beaten egg white. A mixture of pisco and vermouth is called a Pichuncho. Also, a pair of fried eggs is placed on the top of the steak when served. dry ginger ale is used to make a long pisco drink. The Parrillada contains a selection of meat grilled over hot coals. In most restau- rants, the Parrillada is served on its own small grill, so that the heat is conserved Right after the grapes are in-around May-and during the September Indepen- as the diner makes his selection. Ordinarily accompanied by fried potatoes and some dence Day celebrations, a favorite drink is chicha, a fermented grape-juice drink. kind of salad, the Parrillada is a very popular and tasty dish. But a word to the Like pisco, this innocent looking, slightly sweet beverage has a kick of a mule. squeamish eater: if you are not prepared to eat parts of a cow you had no idea were Aguardiente is the most alcoholic of the four national drinks. Distilled from edible, you had better pass up the Parrillada and stick to a conventional Filet or grapes and ordinarily clear in color, it also comes as a kind of brandy, Armañac. Entrecot (T-bone). Aguardiente is the drink responsible for the fact that Chilean teatime goes under Curanto is not so much a dish as a complete dinner. In Santiago, it is made in the name las once. Among the many legends told about the origin of this custom, pots and served in some restaurants, but this is hardly authentic. In the southern this is one of the most interesting. In colonial days the men and women used to region of Chile around Puerto Montt and especially on Tenglo Island, which faces gather to have tea in the afternoon. The men would soon get bored with such a Puerto Montt, the Curanto is prepared in a very different way. A hole is dug in "lifeless" drink and slip off one by one to the kitchen pantry to uncork the bottle the ground and stones placed in the bottom. Fires are lit on top of the stones. When of Aguardiente. When someone noticed the absence and asked about it, the tolerant they are red hot, the wood and ashes are swept away and the food, in sacks, is placed wife would explain, "Oh, he's having his once. "Once" in Spanish means eleven, and Aguardiente has eleven letters. on top of the stones. Wet sacks go atop the food sacks, and on the wet sacks go several layers of earth and grass to conserve the heat inside. After several hours Aguardiente is also the base for one of the most popular drinks in the country, the "oven" is opened and the feast begins. The food inside the sacks is a rather Cola de Mono (monkey's tail). Made with Aguardiente, coffee, milk, sugar, cinna- mad combination of peas, pork, seafood, potatoes, and any number of other ingredi- mon, and egg yolk, it is served in most Chilean homes during the Christmas season ents. But the result is incredibly tasty-and unforgettable. but can also be found in some downtown bars throughout the year. Also common, especially in the countryside, is Pan de Horno, a country bread Beer is one of the drinks consumed in largest quantities in the country, perhaps baked in an earthen oven. Sopaipillas (fried pumpkin patties) are very popular, espe- because of the large German element in the population. Very popular because of cially on rainy days. And Pan de Pascua (fruitcake) is in almost every household its low price, beer can be found in many types throughout the country. Generally at Christmastime. considered superior are the Condor Royal Guard, and Escudo brands in bottled Chile's seacoast (the longest in the world) naturally offers an immense variety where. beer and the draft beer (schop). Imported canned beer is available almost every- of seafoods. And the list would be much longer if the Chileans so wanted, as there are many kinds of fish that are simply ignored by the population. Also locally manufactured are a number of other liquors. The Chilean version Best known of the mariscos (shellfish) are the huge lobsters from Juan Fernández of London Gin is quite good; locally made vodka is acceptable. Whisky sold under Islands, among the best in the world. But equally enjoyable are the centollas (king local trademarks is imported and bottled in Chile and is not unpalatable. However, crabs with spotted scales). These are found in the south and are especially famous almost all import restrictions have been lifted, and customs duties lowered, so that around Punta Arenas. practically all brands of Scotch whisky are available at around $7 a bottle. In Chile, Abalone are common-and good-throughout the country; so are sea urchins, it is possible to find most of the soft drinks well known throughout the world, such clams, prawns, and giant mussels (choros). In the north, freshwater prawns grow as Coca-Cola, Pepsi Cola, Orange Crush, Ginger Ale, Orange Fanta, plus a number to the size of small lobsters. that are strictly Chilean: Bilz, fruit juices in bottles (Nectar de Fruta), and several Chile's world-famous grapes are the base of its four most popular drinks. First, brands of mineral and soda waters. of course, is wine itself. Then comes Pisco, a powerful liquor distilled from grapes and most often seen in the Pisco Sour Cocktail. Grapes are also used to make Chicha, TIPPING. Restaurants and bars no longer add service charges to the bill, but a medium-brown sweet beverage somewhat reminiscent of apple cider with added waiters expect a 10 percent cash tip when service is good. City taxi drivers do not punch. The last, and most powerful, is Aguardiente, which translates literally into expect a tip, but for long distance or hire for long periods in the city, a tip may "fire water." be given according to the service received. Taxis in the city are metered. Chilean wines are world famous, and the fame is well deserved. As was already mentioned, countries like France, Canada, and the United States import Chilean BUSINESS HOURS AND HOLIDAYS. Shops are open from 10 A.M. to 7 P.M., wines of the better qualities. A bottle of good quality costs about $3. Sat. from 10 A.M. to 2 P.M. Post office, 9 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.; closed Sat. Banking hours The variety of Chilean wine is extremely wide. At the bottom of the scale are are from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. Mon. through Fri. the common wines (which are of a remarkably good quality), normally consumed National Holidays. The following legal holidays are observed in Chile: January at home and in bars. 1; Holy Week; May 1; May 21; August 15; September 11, 18, and 19; October 12; At the other end of the scale are the excellent high-quality table wines used on November 1; December 8; December 25. special occasions. Such well-known types as Cabernet, Borgoña (Burgundy), Rhin, and Pinot are a common sight on Chilean tables or in bars and restaurants. Due TELEPHONES AND MAIL. Internal telephone service in Chile is automatic and to the confusion from having some 20 well-known brands of wine, each of these fairly efficient. International service via satellite is excellent. Santiago is directly with its individual classifications, the tourist would perhaps be best advised to de- south of Boston, Massachusetts, so that the time of day in Chile is the same as in cide on tinto (red) or blanco (white) and let the waiter supply the details. Or, if one the Eastern zone of the U.S. There are public phones which cost 30 pesos. Telex wants to go a la chilena, he can just ask for vino de la casa (house wine). and telefax are available. There are several international cable services. Chileans boast of their wines, and they drink them in quantity. You would do Mail services to all parts of the world are good, but incoming deliveries are often well not to try to drink glass for glass with a Chilean, for the odds are that he has slow. Don't use sea mail, since delays are enormous. Hotels will mail your letters. been drinking since childhood. From the time they are very young, children are given a little wine and water with their meals; the water is gradually eliminated NEWSPAPERS. There is no daily English-language newspaper published in as they grow older. Thus by the time they reach maturity, they are not only connois- seurs but have also acquired a considerable immunity to the alcoholic content. available. Chile. However, Miami and New York airmail editions of current papers are widely Pisco is made only in Chile and Peru. It is colorless and has a slightly sweet smell The leading Chilean daily newspapers are: El Mercurio, La Tercera de la Hora, and a very distinctive taste. In all its forms it looks and tastes innocent-but beware, La Segunda, and La Nacion. 290 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 291 ELECTRIC CURRENT. Chile runs on 220 volt current and uses European-style Many of the lakes are in the province of Valdivia, and most excursions start from connection plugs. Major hotels in Santiago, however, have dual outlets and 110 there. A road connects Valdivia with San Martín de los Andes, Argentina, and the volt converters are available at leading hotels throughout the country. Pan American Highway links it with Santiago. Las Marías and Pichoy are the air- ports, and a branch of the Santiago-Puerto Montt railroad goes there. For the most USEFUL ADDRESSES. Embassy of United States, Agustinas 1343, 5th Floor part, it's a bit difficult to make such arrangements on your own. To get to Lake (71-01-33); U.S. Consulate, Merced 230 (71-01-33); British Embassy and Consul- Ranco, for example, several train combinations are necessary. This, combined with ate, Avenida Concepcion 177, 4th Floor (223-9166); Embassy of Canada, Av. Ahu- the difficulty of getting reservations in season, makes it almost imperative for the mada 11, 10th Floor (696-2256). tourist to let a travel agency help him to see the south. There is good bus service Sernatur (government tourist office), Providencia 1550. from Santiago but, again, only to the principal cities. Automobile Club, Vitacura 8620 (212-5702). As is the case of Valdivia, there is excellent transportation to Osorno and to Puer- LAN-Chile Airlines, Agustinas 1197 (699-0505); Eastern Airlines, Huérfanos to Montt by train or bus. But to get from these centers to the lakes themselves is 1199 (71-30-04); Pan American, Av. Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins 949, 23rd more complicated. Some taxis take passengers where there are no local buses, but floor (71-09-19); Ladeco, Huérfanos 1157 (698-2233). this varies from city to city and lake to lake. For this reason, it is always best to consult a travel agent before heading south. They know the ins and outs to unravel SECURITY. At press time the political unrest reported in the news in past years what might otherwise become too complicated. Many times private planes are used has virtually disappeared since the free elections held in December 1989. In any to simplify the trips. case, incidents of tourists being bothered are infrequent in Chile. Chile is essentially Boat service to Easter Island and Robinson Crusoe Island is infrequent and unre- a safe country to visit. The national police force, the Carabineros, are well organized liable. TAXPA private airline (Nueva York 53, Room 102) operates nonscheduled and effective crime fighters. Visitors, however, should stay in central areas and avoid outlying poorer sections service to Robinson Crusoe and Transportes Aereos Robinson Crusoe operates reg- ular flights twice a week from October to March (Agustinas 1173, Santiago). For of town. The rule here as everywhere is, use your common sense. Easter Island, LAN-Chile makes twice-weekly stops outward bound to Tahiti, and the same on its return flights to Chile. Transportation is also available to tour the GETTING AROUND CHILE. With its long coastline, obviously the best way island. to see Chile should be by boat, but unfortunately the coastal lines are not basically Punta Arenas has boat and air contact with the rest, of Chile. The boats leave passenger ships and don't offer much in the way of amenities. A trip south through from Valparaíso or Puerto Montt, and LAN-Chile and LADECO fly daily from the canals is really worth the trouble, though. Contact Naviera Magallanes, Mira- Santiago to Pres. Ibañez del Campo airport, run by the Chilean Air Force. For ex- flores 178, piso 12, Santiago. cursions within and outside the city, contact the efficient Turismo Comapa, Maga- Transportation between Santiago and the Valparaíso area, including Viña del llanes 970 (225-505). Mar, is excellent and there is a good road. Buses run frequently, and collective taxis Two excellent 79- and 150-passenger cruise ships, the M/N Skorpios I and II, are available all day. There is also frequent bus service to the coast villages and offer weekly six-day cruises south from Puerto Montt to the impressive glacier at towns to the south and north of Valparaíso. Lake San Rafael. The trip through southern Chile's canals and islands is a sightsee- Looking northward, La Serena is a town likely to attract the visitor. There are ing spectacular. Cruises start at $650, everything included. This is one of Chile's frequent buses along the Pan American Highway. There are bus services-frequent best kept travel secrets and one of South America's best travel experiences. in summer, less so in winter-to the local places of interest, and there is a delightful There are almost 150 tourist agencies in Chile, 78 of them in Santiago. Many little railway up the valley to Rivadavia, via Vicuña, Gabriela Mistral's birthplace. specialize in different parts of the country. Hotels will put the visitor in touch with If you think you may be late for the down service after your visit, tell the driver, the appropriate agency and make recommendations. and he'll probably wait for you. All major rental car franchises are in Chile, roads are well-maintained and well- There are buses to Copiapo, the mining district and attractive town. policed, and there are regular security checks. Antofagasta, the largest town in the north, can be reached by road, air or sea. For the northern towns, use LADECO (this is an abbreviation for "Linea Aerea SPORTS. Chileans participate in almost every sport common to countries in del Cobre," or Copper Airline, which was formed primarily to serve the copper the Western Hemisphere. Without spectacular success, but with plenty of enthusi- mines of the north). asm, Chile has been represented at the Olympic Games (summer and winter), the To Iquique, travel by bus or plane. World Championship of Football (soccer), riding championships, international ath- Finally, sitting right on the Peruvian border is Arica, served by LADECO and letic meets, and a host of other competitive events, especially tennis. LAN-Chile and frequent buses (which provide a fascinating ride-although rather All of Chile is crazy for football (soccer). Chileans have happily seen their soccer tiring after 1,500 miles-over the desert). The valleys behind Arica have very little teams grow from adolescence to maturity in a short time. transport, and almost the only way to see them is by rented car. While Football is King, there are other sports in which Chile has an outstanding Going south from Santiago, Talca is on the main rail route and on the Pan Amer- record. Recently its participants won the South American Riding Championship, ican Highway bus routes. It is also united with Argentina by way of a road through and Captain Larraguibel still holds the world record in high jumping. Chile was the Vicente Perez Rosales Pass. The Lagoon is reached by paved roads, and there a finalist in the 1976 Davis Cup championships. are bus and car services. Skiing. With the abundance of mountain ranges come an abundance of places Bus service connects Constitución with the capital, and rail service links it with to ski (June to September), such as the ski resorts of Farellones, Lagunillas, and Talca. It is possible to arrive in private plane by landing at Quivolgo. Portillo and the new Ski Center with a ski lift in the south of the slopes of the Villar- Chillán is connected to Santiago by bus and train and airplane service. Side trips rica Volcano. Portillo, located five hours by train from Santiago, is the country's to the ski slopes and thermal baths can be made by train part way and then by ski capital and boasts fine accommodations, several chairlifts and tows, and a six- car (50 miles east of Chillán; the beautiful and scenic road is 70 percent paved). mile run. Other smaller runs are located as close as 32-miles from Santiago, Swiss Concepción can be reached by land, sea, and air with well-established services and Austrian ski pros operate Chile's ski schools. in all three systems. The airport is Carriel Sur. The State Railway has a Santiago- The biggest skiing news in Chile is Valle Nevado, the most ambitious ski resort Concepcion run, and the bus service is quite good. The road is paved all the way. ever planned in South America. Located 40 miles from Santiago, Valle Nevado Steamships on their way to Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas stop at Talcahuano. opened the first eight of its planned 50 ski lifts in June 1988 amid 22,000 Andean The State Railways Information Bureau on Avenida Arturo Prat in Temuco can acres of slopes. Here virgin runs stretch as long as 10 miles and climb as high as give the current complete information on the many excursions possible from this 17,908 feet. Information from: Valle Nevado, Gertrudis Echeñique 441 (480-839) city. As a general rule, the starting point for all of them is Temuco. or Gray Line Ski Tours: Box 1001, Santiago (698-2164). 292 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 293 New ski facilities are now well organized throughout Chile. Outside the Santiago area the most popular resort is Chillán, located 50 miles from the city of Chillán, featuring an 102-room hotel, thermal baths, four large open-air swimming pools fed by volcanic springs, and five ski runs, the largest served by a 8,202-foot double- chair lift. Also popular is the ski center at Villarrica Volcano. Here a new 1800-foot chairlift offers wide-open descents set against the spectacular backdrop of the Chil- ean lakes below with a massive smoking volcanic cone above. A 36-room Refugio- Hosteria is located at the base of the lift. Scores of excellent hotels are available Exploring Chile to skiiers in nearby Pucon and Villarrica. A new ski center is also under development on the slopes of Osorno Volcano, 37 miles from Puerto Varas. Two lodges can now accommodate 150 persons. A 1,968 foot T-bar lift is in operation. Fifty miles from Temuco, on the slopes of the Llaima Volcano, is the Llaima SANTIAGO ski resort in the Los Paraguas National Park, so named because of the lovely snow- covered trees that resemble umbrellas. Two lodges can accommodate about 170 guests, and there is a mile-long ski lift. Here you can ski year round. "Santiago," as Chileans are often heard to say a bit critically, "is Chile." Water Sports. Beaches and lakes all through the country give ample opportuni- And they are very right. Santiago is not only the capital politically, but ties for every water sport from skin diving to water skiing. Boating is another favor- economically, and culturally as well. ite pastime with Chileans and visitors, and there are facilities for deepsea fishing Not that there is no activity outside the big city. Such cities as Valparaí- in the north, at Tocopilla and Antofagasta (Mar./Sept.) Skin diving is good along so (principal port on the Pacific coast), Viña del Mar (the Pacific coast's the whole coast. most fashionable vacation spot), and Concepción (home of a fine universi- Chile is a fisherman's paradise. A license is required, which may be obtained from ty and center of the steel and coal mining industry) cannot be bypassed the "Club de Pesca y Caza" (Rod and Gun Club) in any city. so easily. Nor can Arica in the far north, Punta Arenas in the far south, In the north there's deepsea fishing all year round for tuna, bonito, swordfish, and many other cities in between. black marlin, striped marlin, and shark. In the central valley are found brown trout But Santiago is the center of it all. The government reduced former ex- and pejerrey. The really good rainbow trout fishing is in the south, where a 10- treme centralism by establishing 12 "Regions" with considerable local pound fish is a little fellow. For fishing tours down south, trout fishing enthusiasts can now arrange angling power, and Congress was moved to new quarters in Valparaíso. Still, most expeditions on a comfortable six-birth motorboat to remote northern Patagonia government agencies and principal offices are in the capital; thus, head- (south of Puerto Montt). For information contact Puma Fishing, Pedro de Valdivia quarters of the biggest industries and companies are too. By sheer weight 0169, Santiago. Also the Rod and Gun Club secretary can be helpful if you're inter- of the population, now over 4 million, Santiago is also the center of cultur- ested. The same club will arrange for licenses to hunt quail, partridge, snipe, doves, al life and boasts three of South America's top educational institutions: rabbits, ducks, and others. the University of Chile (state-run and the largest), the Catholic University Spectator Sports. A number of country clubs and stadiums allow visitors to par- (private), and the University of Santiago. ticipate in or watch such sports as basketball, tennis, volleyball, golf, horseback rid- The tourist's interest in Santiago is centered around the many activities ing, track events, hockey, polo, rugby, and bowling. Many of the resident foreigners and natural beauty. The Andes form an inspiring backdrop and there are belong to country clubs where all sports are practiced. many hills within the city itself. The downtown area is one of Latin Ameri- In sports spectacles, football again occupies the top spot. The Football Associa- tion organizes many international games in which the most famous teams of the ca's busiest, its streets overflowing with people rushing about shopping world have come to play, though they have never found it easy to beat the Chilenos. or tending to their businesses. However, this city seems to suffer more than These matches, as well as most other sporting events, are held in the state-owned a normal amount of demolitions, street excavations, and general untidi- National Stadium, with a seating capacity of 80,000. The World Basketball Cham- ness, which prompted a well-known Chilean cartoonist to quip: "Santiago pionship took place there, as did part of the World Football Championship of 1962. is going to be a nice town-if they ever finish it." Much of the national competition in football takes place in the stadium each year, The main downtown street is called Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins, or, and important swimming, tennis and track events are usually held there. more simply, the Alameda. Once a branch of the Mapocho River, it was Horse Racing. Horse racing fans have plenty of opportunities to enjoy the sport. later dried up and converted into a modern, wide thoroughfare. Right In Santiago there are two race tracks, the Hipódromo Chile, open Saturdays and downtown on this main street stands Santa Lucia Hill, an amazing exam- every other Wednesday, and the Club Hípico, open Sundays and the other Wednes- ple of what can be done with an unappealing area. The hill is regarded day. Races normally start at 2 P.M. In Viña del Mar, races are held at the Sporting as the birthplace and bulwark of Santiago, as it was here Don Pedro de Club, open all day on holidays. Valdivia founded the city and from here Don Casimiro Marcó del Pont, the last Spanish governor, defended the city from attacks by Indepen- dence-seeking Chilenos. Mapuche Indians had earlier dedicated it to the God of Pain (Huelén) and Christians erected on its summit the very first hermitage and the first Cross of the Conquest. National hero Bernardo O'Higgins first had the idea of using the hill as a cultural attraction when he tried to build an observatory and a parthe- non atop it. But decades were to pass before historian, politician, writer, and great patriot Don Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna made the dreams of O'Higgins come true. From 1872 to 1874, he directed the work by convicts which transformed the hill from an eyesore to the lovely, unique park it is today. CHILE 295 SOUTH AMERICA 294 is a kind of living museum, since two fortresses overlooks constructed the thedral, the sprawling Central Post Office, and the Municipality of Santia- The Marcó hill del Pont still remain: one, the Castillo González, its main ter- go. Delightful cobblestoned promenades closed to motor traffic cross the heart of Santiago and its popular plaza. On two sides of the plaza-east by "Alameda" and provides a wonderful view of the city from Arts Muse- and south-is a commercial and residential center with large apartment and the other, Castillo Hidalgo, now houses the Popular is of houses. race; um in what were once the dungeons. Many claim Santa Lucia one Behind the Cathedral, on Bandera Street, is the old National Congress the loveliest parks in the Americas. Building. Since the newly elected parliament has relocated to Valparaíso, this building is being used by one of the ministries. It was designed by San Cristóbal Hill French architect Ambroise Henault, who is also responsible for the Uni- Lucia, at 240 feet above street level, is small in comparison to versity of Chile headquarters on the Alameda and the Municipal Theater San is 1,200 feet high and adorned with a statue of the Virgin and Santa Cristóbal Hill. Usually the first sight to impress a visitor to Santiago, Mary, at Agustinas and San Antonio. The Municipal Theater is the most impor- tant cultural center, and top national groups perform there throughout this hill gift to Chile. At night the big statue is flooded with within lights the year, as do international attractions like the Bolshoi Ballet and the France's from almost any point of the city. San Cristóbal is River. easy Chinese Opera. There are also performances by the Ballet Nacional can be seen distance from downtown, four blocks across the Mapocho new cable Chileno, the Philarmonic Orchestra of Santiago, and the brilliant Opera Nacional. walking to reach San Cristóbal's summit is by the brand small café, The best offers way 6,646-foot ride to a terrace, where there is a in Santi- car that a and walkways. The ride is the best sightseeing there trip is seldom The Churches of Santiago many ago and gardens, the cable car leaves every 14 seconds. This means As a Catholic country, Chile's churches are among its most important a and waiting, even on holidays. line view no is absolutely marvelous. Set aside a couple of hours and twinkle get monuments. Santiago has many, ranging in architectural style from mod- The before sunset; then wait to watch the lights begin to birthday ern to colonial. Santo Domingo, located on the street of the same name, to the until top the just whole city stretched out before you becomes a giant was inaugurated in 1771 and was one of the most beautiful churches in Chile until 1963, when a fire completely destroyed its interior and roof. on cake. Needless to say, this place is a favorite spot for lovers. A funicular, or, for hiking enthusiasts, walking. The animals are of the third of the way up San Cristóbal is the city zoo, which can be reached kept Only the stone walls remain, but its style can still be appreciated from out- side. Reconstruction has begun and the church has been declared a nation- al monument. by car, similar to their natural habitats, taking advantage zoo's collec- in hill's places mountainlike very appearance. Especially interesting is the The Cathedral was finished in 1788. Most of its relics and holy figures are of Jesuit origin, brought to the country or made here by that order. tion of typically Chilean animals and birds. There is also the very attractive Tupahue swimming pool surrounded Notable are the wooden figure of Saint Francis Xavier and the 17th- century silver lamp weighing more than 50 pounds. In the sacristy, full by lawns and gardens. of hills to which the San Cristóbal belongs is the Manuel Pirá- of furniture several centuries old, is a magnificent painting of the Last Sup- In the same called group because of a small monument there honoring Don erected by per. The monstrance is the most striking piece in this collection of religious mide, so of Chile's founding fathers. The monument was colo- objects. Adorned with emeralds and rubies, more than 30 pounds of silver de Salas, merchant one John O'Brien, who sided with the South American He be- went into making the vessels. British and joined General San Martín's forces to fight the Spanish. in Chile, The Church of San Francisco, begun in 1568 and finished in 1618, is nies San Martín's principal collaborator and lived many years Pirámide del of a style inspired by the Italian Renaissance. It was constructed with enor- came second country. Because he used to live in what is now who had mous stones, and practically no mortar was needed to unite them. Inside his del Agua, he decided to dedicate a monument to the man used to it, in the cloister, are paintings by Juan Zapata, a member of the Quito Salto been kind enough to give him the place. San Martín himself go School of the 17th century. Separating the cloister from the sacristy is a there after fighting to rest his nerves and restore his energies. three-leaved door with evident Renaissance inspiration, and in the main dens and place a delightful restaurant that has become one of the The is now one of the most beautiful in Santiago, with favorite lush spots gar- altar is an image of Our Lady of Mercy; carved of wood and standing 11 inches high, it was brought to Chile by Don Pedro de Valdivia. Other nota- ble images are those of Saint Francis of Assisi, founder of the order that for locals. are off the hills and back downtown, a logical place The to lives in the adjoining monastery; Saint Michael, dating from 1594; and But once tour you of the center is La Moneda, the Presidential 1805. Palace. It now the Christ of La Caña, brought from Lima in 1630. start your designed by Joaquín Toesca and completed in well Other churches worth a visit are San Agustín, Agustinas and Estado Palace was the Ministry of Interior and the Foreign Affairs Ministry, as gov- Streets; La Merced, at Compañía and McIver; Santa Ana, Cathedral and houses the presidential offices. On two sides of it are tall buildings Hotel housing Carrera. San Martín; Recoleta Dominica, seven blocks from Mapocho Train Sta- as ernmental offices, the postal and telegraph building, and the of former tion on Recoleta Street; and Recoleta Franciscana, at the beginning of Re- coleta Street. One behind La Moneda (toward the Alameda) has a statue Moneda President Street) is now Constitution Plaza and site of the ceremony of the plaza Arturo Alessandri Palma, and another in front of it (on changing Santiago's Museums of Palace Guards. the blocks from La Moneda, as you walk away from the Alameda, Ca- is Worth a visit is Chile's Museo Historico Nacional, Plaza de Armas 951, the Five main square, the Plaza de Armas. On its fringes are the relic-filled which offers a complete presentation of Chile's history. San Francisco 296 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 297 FERIA Santiago MUNICIPAL (Central Market) REC SANTA FILOMENA CERRO SAN CRISTOBAL 1 0 Miles ½ LORIDA RIO DE JANEIRO] Plaza CALLE ANDRES BELLO PATRONATO LORETO 22 N Coupolicar Canal.deL Carmen AVENIDA BELLAVISTA PRESIDENTE Rio Mapocho MARIA DARDIGNAC BOMBERO NUNEZ PURI SMA BELLO ANDRES GRAL BALMACEDALA JOSE BELLAVISTA SIGLO PIO MACKENNA CARO Plaza PARQUÉ ENIDA XX IX PABLO Rio Ecuador SAN ESMERALDA FORESTAL SE Mapocho MARIA CARO ANTA BELLAVISTA PUENTE RIA ROSAS MAYO IVER 18 SANTO DOMINGO 9 15 21 MONJITAS 2 CATEDRAL MAC 6 Armas- 5 MERCED MIRAFLORES MOSQUETO IS MAE MERCED VALDES 21 VERGARA PARQUE PROVIDENCIA AV. ANDRES BELLO MART TEATINOS MORANDE AV Plaza SAN City COMPANIA ANTONIO ROSA Paulo AHUMADA JOSÉ V. LASTARRIA GRAL. AMUNATEGUI 13 19 16 4 V.MACKENNA BURHLE N Sao 4 ENRIQUE 17 CARNICER HUERFANOS BANDERA BAND ESTADO GGINSFOLET A.SIMPSON LUCIA SEAUX HNOS SAN AGUSTINAS 10 12 PORTUGE opolitano Presidente Kennedy SANTA 31 Club de Golf Plaza\de la 20 Metro Constitución Apoquindo MONEDA LIRA argue Avenida 7 MONEDA 14 28 MANUEL RODRIGUEZ 3 N YORK San Cristobal O'HIGGINS Plaza de la Libertad SAN 24 FRANCISCO SANTA ROS Providencia BERNARDO Francisco Bilbao 30 ITEMS OF INTEREST 11 SAN ISIDRO 23 ALAMEDA S 25 DIEGO 8 SERRA San Diego beyond the ARTURO Parque Yrarrateval Town Center 26 Cousino Plaza Bulnes 27 29 0km 2 3 Points of Interest 8) Universidad de Chile 16) Museo Precolombino 24) Museum of Contemporary Art 1) Recoleta Franciscana Church 9) Post Office 17) Museum of Popular Arts 25) Museum of Natural Science 2) Church of Santa Ana 10) San Augustin Church 18) Museo de Bellas Artes 26) Universidad de Santiago 3) Palacio de La Moneda 11) San Francisco Church 19) Church of Vera Cruz 27) Club Hipico 4) Tribunales de Justicia 12) Municipal Theater 20) Clinica Universidad Catolica 28) Virgen del San Cristobal 5) Congreso Nacional 13) La Merced Church 21) U.S. Embassy 29) Estadio Nacional 6) Cathedral 14) Biblioteca Nacional 22) Zoological Garden 30) Prince of Wales Country Club 23) Quinta Normal 31) Cerro Santa Lucia 7) Church of Augustinas 15) Museo Historico 298 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 299 Church, Londres 4, has a good collection of religious art. The Museo Pre- Manquehue. Esteban dell 'Orto 6615 (220-9269). In exclusive Las Condes colombino, Bandera 305, has an excellent archaeological collection. The Fine Arts Museum at one side of the lovely Parque Forestal offers perma- bar, sauna, restaurant. Beautiful all-wood interior. New 23-room hotel with quiet two-floor setting beside park. Small swimming pool, area. nent exhibitions of the works of Chilean artists and several interesting Río Bidasoa. Vitacura 4873 (242-1525). In elegant Vitacura area with 30 rooms, shows throughout the year. For the mechanically minded, there is an avia- swimming pool, bar, restaurant, telephone, and color TV. Ideal for executives. tion museum and a vintage car museum. Tupahue. San Antonio 477 (383-810). Modern building. Downtown. 207 double and twin rooms, all with private bath, completely carpeted, air-conditioned. Music, PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR SANTIAGO telephone, and TV. Dining rooms and self-service cafeteria, grill. Music bar. Tem- perate swimming pool. GETTING AROUND SANTIAGO. By Metro. Santiago's modern Metro is one Moderate of the world's finest subway systems. Visitors will find the two main lines run to most major sites and areas they want to visit. The subway is well organized, immac- Libertador. Bernardo O'Higgins Ave. 853 (394-213). Good location, on the Ala- ulately clean, and one of the city's showcases. Fares are very inexpensive (less than meda facing old San Francisco church. 115 rooms, each with phone, radio, bath. 20 cents) and service operates from 6:30 A.M. to 10:30 P.M. On Sat. and Sun., they Turkish baths for ladies. Restaurant, laundry, and room service. In the same building: beauty parlor and run from 7:15 A.M. to 11:30 P.M. By car. Hertz, Avis, and National have agencies in Santiago. Hertz has locations throughout Chile. Rates are expensive. Sample rate: a Chevette costs approximately Lucia Hill. 40 suites. Spanish dining room, bar, tea room, conference room. Foresta. Victoria Subercaseaux 353 (396-262). Excellent location facing Santa $200 a week plus 16% tax and insurance. For brief stays in Chile, the visitor's home Gran Palace. Huérfanos 1178, 10th floor (712-551). 72 rooms, some suites, in license is sufficient; for longer stays, bring an international license. All firms require modern new building, all with private bath and telephone. Grill, American bar, a major credit card. roof terrace garden. Room service and valet service at all times. Transportation By bus. Intercity buses are good and comfortable, and some have bar and toilet to and from railway stations, bus stations, airport. Garage for parking. facilities. Chileans travel mostly by bus, because buses are cheaper and run more Panamericano. Huérfanos and Teatinos (723-060). Two blocks from the Moneda frequently than the railroads do. Palace on Teatinos Street, 90 rooms with private baths, all looking toward the street The State Railways offer acceptable service to the South in "automotor saloons," Bus service. Garage. Good bar. facing the magnificent Andes. All rooms with telephone and radio. Room service. with bar service and music. For many out-of-town runs-Viña del Mar, for instance-there are collective Santa Lucia. Huérfanos 779 (398-201). 65 rooms with private baths and tele- taxis which make quick excursions at modest rates. phones occupying three floors of modern downtown building. One- or two-bedroom suites with living room and kitchenette. Monthly rates available. Terrace Restau- HOTELS. Santiago offers a wide range of hotels in every price category. Leading rant and Winter Garden Restaurant serve good meals. Room service, laundry, shoe hotels include the new Crowne Plaza, Sheraton San Cristobal, and the traditional shine, beauty parlor, and parking facilities. downtown Carrera. Ask the National Tourist Board (Providencia 1550) for their 8 singles. Bar. Homey atmosphere. Hotel de Don Tito. Huérfanos 578 (391-987). Small hotel with 6 suites, 8 twins, Practical Guide to Santiago, in English, which includes hotels. For definitions of our price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Deluxe tips." RESTAURANTS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Finger- Carrera. Teatinos 180 (698-2011). Facing Plaza de la Constitución and La Moneda Palace, right downtown. 324 recently decorated rooms-singles, doubles, Deluxe and suites-all with private bath and telephone. Air-conditioned. Crowne Plaza Holiday Inn. Bernardo O'Higgins 136 (381-042). Has 304 rooms "cave," international atmosphere. La Concepción 236. Aquí está Coco. Among the finest in town for seafood specialties. Wine-tasting and features pool, tennis courts, playground, bars, nightclubs, and reception, ban- Coco Loco. An elegant seafood restaurant. Rancagua 0554. quet, and convention facilities. Conveniently located downtown. Martín Carrera. International nouvelle cuisine. A gourmet's delight, this prize- Plaza San Francisco. Av. Bernardo O'Higgins 816 (393-832). Recently opened winning restaurant is worth a visit for an elegant evening. Isidora Goyenechea 3471. with 110 elegant and modern air-conditioned rooms, the hotel features pool, bar, Puerto Marisko. Fine seafood and nice atmosphere. Isidora Goyenechea 2918. snack bar, convention facilities, and large parking garage. Good international res- taurant. Located in front of Colonial San Francisco Church and within walking Expensive distance of important downtown landmarks. Sheraton San Cristobal Hotel and Towers. Av. Santa Maria 1742 (274-5000). 350 rooms with bath, TV, air-conditioning. In elegant residential district, 10 min- family. Av. Las Condes 9889. Traditional Chilean dishes and Latin American music; sing-a-long led by Ramón Alero de los de Ramon. In a typical Chilean colonial house in outskirts of city. utes by taxi from downtown. Good international, local specialties in restaurant. Su- Bali Hai! Polynesian atmosphere, Easter Island show. Av. Colon 5146. perb mountain views. Cocktail lounge. Pools, shops. Caleta Los Leones. Shellfish specialties. Los Leones 195. Expensive Canto del Agua. Seafood and international cuisine. Nueva de Lyon 0129. El Conquistador. Miguel Cruchaga 920, and Estado (696-5599). A first-class downtown. Chez Henry. Chilean and international cuisine. Portal Fernandez Concha 962, hotel in the very heart of the business, shopping, and entertainment center. 133 sin- gle and twin-bedded rooms and suites, all with private bath and telephone. Good corner Isidora Goyenechea. Don Carlos. Argentine steakhouse with tango entertainment. Agusto Leguia N. international cuisine, grill room, coffee shop, and American bar. El Toro Simbolico. Grilled steak, Folklore show. Las Condes 10680. Galerias. San Antonio 65 (384-011). 162-room hotel located downtown at the Enoteca. In San Cristobal. Hilltop. A super view of Santiago, city of glass walls. corner of Moneda. The Gallerias is popular with commercial travelers. Excellent music and fine food. A special place downstairs for learning about vine- Hostal Del Parque. Merced 294 (392-694). New apartment hotel featuring 30 yards and to taste the finest wine, piscos of the North and South zone. apartment suites with kitchenette. It is located beside the U.S. Consulate. A Europe- La Cascade. Excellent French food. Fairly expensive, but worth it. Ave. Francis- an-style exclusive residence. CO Bilbao 1947. 300 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 301 La Estancia. International food, excellent steak, folkloric music. Las Condes There are enormous price differences from shop to shop, so it is as well to look 13810. La Rueda. Steak and folk music. Av. Las Condes 9739. Maistral. French, Chilean, international cuisine. Exclusive and expensive. Air for a lower price, but not in the big department stores. Take a slow wander through around before buying. In some of the smaller shops it is still possible to bargain conditioning. Spanish, English, French, German, Italian spoken. Mosqueto 485. the many arcades (pasajes) in the city center and in Providencia, which has become a big shopping area. Moderate Best shopping bargains for Chilean crafts and art can often be found at the gov- Canta Gallo. 150-year-old beautiful building with the "Comilona a la Chilena" Portugal 351. ernment operated CEMA shops. The main CEMA store is located in Santiago at (eat all you want at a reasonable price) every Mon. and Fri. Show with typical Chil- ean music. Av. Las Condes 12345. Casablanca. International cuisine and U.S.-style luncheon buffet. Nightly show. NIGHTLIFE. Discos are the center of Santiago's nightlife. Most popular spots Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Hotel. are: Gente, Apoquindo 4900; La Scala, Cerro San Cristobal; Casamila, Alvaro Ca- Da Carla. Excellent Italian food downtown. MacIver 577. sanova 298-A; and Disco Brass, Hotel Crown Plaza. El Villorrio. Downtown restaurant with typical Chilean specialties. San Antonio We recommend that those visitors who want entertainment in the Chilean capital 676. choose one of the many popular restaurants offering folklore shows. These include Giratorio. Elegant new restaurant featuring international menu. Located on 16th Los Buenos Muchachos, Alero de los de Ramon, and Los Adobes de Argomedo. floor, the restaurant revolves slowly for panoramic view of Providencia. Nva. Provi- There are no casinos in Santiago. dencia 2250. Los Adobes de Argomedo. Good restaurant to sample Chilean specialties with. nightly folklore show. Downtown. Argomedo 411. Munchen. Excellent service and best German food in Santiago. El Bosque 204. EXCURSIONS FROM SANTIAGO Inexpensive Casa de Cena. Bargain-priced Chilean and international food. Almirante Simp- son 20. in Chile: From Santiago it is easy to reach many other interesting cities and areas El Naturista. Natural foods. Moneda 846. Los Buenos Muchachos. Chilean specialties and folkloric entertainment. Cum- Las Vertientes is 40 minutes away by car in the direction of San José ming 1031. attraction. de Maipo through Puente Alto. The nearby Maipo River offers an extra TOURIST INFORMATION. Chile's energetic National Tourist Office (SERNA- TUR) maintains helpful offices in the city's international airport and at its new Or go to El Arrayán, located on the banks of the Mapocho River on building in Providencia 1550 (251-7469). City brochures and maps are available the road to the Farellones ski resort. It is only 20 minutes from downtown free. Santiago by car, and buses and liebres (small buses) also make the trip. Hosteria El Arrayán has a swimming pool for guests and offers a magnifi- TOURS. Three excellent tour companies offer sightseeing and special interest cent view of the mountains and rivers. The crisp mountain air is wonder- tours (to wine cellars, vineyards, Christ of the Andes, and rural areas). Leading ful."On the road to El Arrayán are several restaurants, some of them rather tour operators are Cocha Turismo, Latour, and Sportstours. rustic. In the Las Condes area is La Rueda, which features Chilean music Cocha Turismo, Agustinas 1173 (698-3341), Santiago. and singing, as well as good food. Latour, Suite 602, Agustinas 1476 (727-918). Sportstours, Teatinos 333, 10th Floor (696-8832). Continuing on the same road you will reach Farellones, 30 miles from Santiago and some 7,400 feet above sea level. It has six ski lifts, one of MUSEUMS. Worth a visit is Chile's Museo Historico Nacional, Plaza de Armas them a chair lift rising all the way to the top of Colorado Hill-10,664 951 (381-411), which offers a complete presentation of Chile's history. San Francis- feet above sea level. The fields of Farellones and Colorado have acquired co Church has a good collection of religious art. The new Museo de Arte PreColom- a well-deserved international fame, and many competitions are held there bino, Bandera 361 (717-284), and Museo de Bellas Artes, Parque Forestal (330- during the skiing season-from the last of May through mid-October. Ac- 655), are also well worth visiting. For the mechanically minded, there is an aviation museum and a vintage car museum. Museums are open Tues. through Sat. from commodations are good, if somewhat scarce. There are 75 refugios (guest houses), 15 belonging to clubs and 60 in private hands. A store rents all 10, A.M. to 6 P.M.; Sun. and holidays 10 A.M. to 1 P.M. the necessary equipment, and there are several snack bars. Transportation SHOPPING. Because Chile is considered a developing country, you can bring is pretty good during the whole season, with a daily service of buses, cars, many of the locally made products that you buy there into the U.S. duty free under and trucks. It's a fine weekend or one-day trip. the GSP plan, as explained in Facts at Your Fingertips, earlier in this volume. Three miles farther up on the road are the La Parva slopes, very popular There are today almost no import restrictions in Chile, and the shops are well with Santiaguinos. La Parva has three poma lifts, one over a mile long, stocked with imported goods of all kinds. Most brands of American cigarettes are available everywhere, and a few English, at an average price of $1 per pack of 20 and several chairlifts to some of the most challenging slopes. There is a small lones. restaurant for the public, but most visitors lodge at nearby Farel- cigarettes. Among Chilean goods, the excellent textiles are worth mentioning. For "typical" items, colorful hand-woven ponchos are a good buy, also vicuña rugs, and-- Lagunillas ski fields are farther along the same road to Las Vertientes. although perhaps a little heavy for air travel-there is excellent artisan copper. There the fields are good and the accommodations adequate. Several clubs work. and private refugios take guests. There is a chair lift about a mile long, Chilean stones have achieved much popularity abroad, and there are many "rock and Lagunillas offers several long ski trips, some of which must be taken shops" in the city and suburbs selling quality work in lapis lazuli, Chilean jade, amethyst, agate, onyx, and others. trip. with a guide. Transportation to Lagunillas is by car and bus in a two-hour SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 302 303 On the road into the Andes is the mountain town of El Volcán, from the Hotel Portillo. During winter it becomes a skating rink, and during which many mountain hikes can be taken, and farther up Lo Valdes, prac- summer it is a sailing and fishing spot. tically the Andes themselves. Nearby are the Morales Thermal Baths, Portillo has first-class facilities. With several ski lifts and two chair lifts, 6,000 feet above sea level (58 miles from Santiago, 8 from El Volcán). The the snazzy six-floor Hotel Portillo (231-3411 in Santiago) is easily the best baths are supposedly good for respiratory ailments, as is the climate. resort of its kind on the continent. Transportation is provided by tourist The Central Valley has its own share of attractions. The town of Maipo, bus or private car. Travel agencies will help make arrangements during where the great Battle of Maipo took place, has a museum, a monolith the season. commemorating the battle, and a temple to the Virgin of Carmen built after O'Higgins' promise. A Parthenon of the Heroes pays homage to the VALPARAISO AND THE COAST men who took part in the famous independence battle. Maipo also has a good swimming pool with a good restaurant; the top rodeo of the year The tourist arriving in Chile by ship may well think that his first view- is held there with competitors from all over the country. the many hills surrounding the port with houses miraculously clinging to About 37 miles southwest from Santiago, near Melipilla, is the town their sides-cannot be surpassed by anything else in the country. And the of Pomaire, well known for its pottery and ceramics. The craftsmanship visitor who has arrived by air or by way of Los Andes will be equally sur- has been handed down for countless generations, and collectors of original prised when he takes the trip to Valparaíso and its nearby sister, Viña del folkloric art will find many pieces worth taking home. The trip is best Mar. made by car. Pomaire pottery can also be found in Santiago's central mar- Valparaíso, also known as Valpo, is divided into two sections: the hills ket and at many art stores. section and the "basin" section, which serves as the commercial center. Two full-day excursions increasingly popular with visitors are the Mo- Each of the hills is like an individual city, and the twisting streets that naco's Country Day Tour, a delightful Chilean-style house and farm only go up and down them will enchant any tourist. The view from these hills one half hour from downtown with a large swimming pool, horseback rid- over the bay and on to Viña is one of the most striking in all of Chile. ing, country lunch, open bar, and a homey atmosphere; and the tour to The taste of the port is found in its twisted streets next to the Mercado, Los Lingues, a historic colonial ranch-hacienda built in 1710 and located with its myriad bars, underground taverns and sailor hangouts. The cul- 78 miles from Santiago. Los Lingues features Chilean equestrian exhibi- tural life of the port is as busy as its maritime one and centers around the tions and excellent food and drink. Arturo Prat Naval School, Beaux Arts Museum, Severín Public Library, Santiago province has many beach resorts: San Antonio is a busy sea- Naval History Museum, Catholic University of Valparaíso, branches of port and seafood center; Cartagena is a very popular vacation spot. Others the University of Chile, and the Technical University Federico Santa are San Sebastián, Las Cruces, Isla Negra, El Tabo-all with beautiful María, one of Latin America's most outstanding. Valpo's poets and writers beaches and agreeable climates. El Tabo has a white sand beach; from have enriched Chilean literature since the beginning of the republic. there to the north they are yellow-white, to the south grey-white. El Quis- Valpo's historical spots are many. Among the most important is the co is one of the best beaches of the region, and in summer it is heavily Mirador O'Higgins, located in Alto del Puerto. This spot offers the best populated with Santiaguinos and tourists. Algarrobo has extremely peace- view, and for this reason it was used by General O'Higgins when he saw ful waters because a big rocky island just off the coast breaks the waves. the Chilean Navy off to aid Peru in its War of Independence with Spain. The sea here is as peaceful as a pond, and for this reason it is a top spot Another spot is Cerro Los Placeres, where Diego Portales may have been for yachting, skin diving, and water skiing. Transportation to and from murdered. this area is excellent, especially during summer. A train services Cartage- Valparaíso's beaches take a back seat to those of Viña. The principal, na, and buses reach every other town in the area, which is crowded in sum- most central one is Las Torpederas, surrounded by plazas and gardens. From there a tour can be taken around the various fishing towns, and an- mer. Special mention is due to Rocas de Santo Domingo beach resort, located other to visit such places as the Paseo Rubén Darío, a beautiful wooded in the same area south of San Antonio. The road to the resort passes area with paths and benches; the park of Playa Ancha, and the Playa through Llo-Lleo, with its wonderful climate, and Tejas Verdes. Before Ancha football stadium. A bit more time is required to visit such spots arriving in Santo Domingo, one must cross a bridge stretching more than as the Quebrada Verde Park. There is also the historical field of Placilla, a mile over the Maipo River. The town has marvelous gardens and houses, where the Revolution of 1891 was decided and the fate of President Bal- and a splendid golf course. A small hotel, the Piedra del Sol, offers five maceda sealed. After defeat, he took his life. seaside cabins. Viña del Mar, 10 minutes further up the coast from Valpo, is a true Other beach resorts are located in the nearby province of Aconcagua. gem-"The Pearl of the Pacific." Its natural beauty is a year-round attrac- Papudo, Zapallar, Maitencillo, and Marbella are all easily reached by bus tion, and in the summer a flurry of activity makes the place even more or car; the trip to Papudo, the most distant, takes about three hours. enjoyable. A series of beaches-some almost downtown-draw thousands The world-famous ski resort of Portillo, site of the 1966 world Ski of sun worshippers daily in the summer. Championships, is also in Aconcagua province. Located at 9,300 feet El Recreo, the first beach after leaving Valparaíso, is wide and comfort- above sea level, Portillo boasts ski slopes more than 2,000 feet long, plus able, with terraces full of vacationers and a seawater swimming pool. It ice-skating rinks. Classes for novices in both ice-skating and skiing are is followed by Caleta Abarca, with a view of the port and surrounded by given by champions from the U.S., France, Austria, and Chile. The winter beautiful gardens and walkways. Other beaches are spotted along the 10- sports season begins in June and lasts through September. The natural mile coastal road connecting Viña with Concón, and whether the vacation- beauty of Portillo is further enhanced by Laguna del Inca, 300 feet from er prefers crowded beaches with many activities or isolated spots inhabited 304 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 305 only by the visitor and nature, he can find either extreme-and anything in-between-in the Viña area. izes in seafood and shellfish. RESTAURANT. Restaurante Bote Salvavidas, Moderate, Muelle Prat. Special- But Viña's charm takes in far more than its beaches. The city is set amidst a forest, and man's hand has been used to complement the marvel- VIÑA DEL MAR ous work done by Nature. Modern buildings that form the city's skyline gracefully combine with the more traditional chalets and even castles. HOTELS. Miramar. Deluxe. Caleta Abarca (664-077). A 122-room remodeled Here the President of Chile has his rustic Summer Palace on Cerro Castillo hotel is now Viña's most outstanding. Located right on the ocean, this modern hotel (Castle Hill). Wide, well-designed avenues, such as the Avenida de la Ma- offers full facilities plus a spectacular view and the city's finest location. rina, lined on one side by palm trees and apartment buildings and on the Oceanic. Deluxe. Recently opened, this beautiful 24-room seaside hotel provides other by the estero, an inlet of the sea with multiple bridges and illuminat- good service and a wonderful view of the Pacific Ocean. On the way to Reñaca. ed fountains decorate the city. O'Higgins. Expensive. Arlegui Street (882-016), facing Plaza Francisco Vergara, The abundance of flowers have given Viña the name, "The Garden beside the sea inlet called the estero. Near Municipal Casino, beach. Elegant and comfortable. 300 rooms and apartments with baths and phones. Charming Winter City." Aside from the thousands of private gardens, tourists may visit the Garden. Reception and convention facilities. Top-quality restaurant specializing in Quinta Vergara, an old mansion converted into a park with huge, beauti- international cuisine, grill room and boite with orchestra, American bar. Room and fully kept gardens and walkways. Here during the summer, many outdoor valet service, laundry at all times, beauty parlor, barber shop, swimming pool, ter- cultural events are held, among them the annual Song Festival. Other love- races and gardens. Garage and service station. ly parks include the Plaza Vergara, in the heart of town, and the Plaza San Martin. Expensive. San Martín and Siete Norte Streets (972-548). 120 rooms with private bath and telephone, some with view of the ocean. Large sitting room Mexico, with its lighted fountains. with huge windows overlooking Avenida Peru and the Pacific. Only three short Places to visit include the Municipal Theater, offering top dramatic and streets from the Casino. American bar with highly skilled barman. Room service, ballet presentations; the Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna Municipal Library; laundry, shoe shine, messenger service. Restaurant and snackbar. the Academy and Museum of Fine Arts in the Quinta Vergara; the Valpa- Alcazar. Moderate. Alvárez Street 646 (685-112). Comfortable old hotel with raíso Sporting Club, one of Chile's best racing tracks; Sausalito Stadium, new ultramodern addition of separate cabins, 75 rooms with private bath and tele- set amid the forest on the banks of El Tranque lake; and the Granadilla phone, restaurant and bar. Room service and laundry. Garage and parking lot. Well Country Club, with magnificent golf course. Viña is small and friendly located, only one block from train station and two blocks from downtown Viña. enough that the tourist will have no trouble finding his way from one spot Holiday Motel. Moderate. Angamos 367 (970-623). Comfortable 42 unit motel with swimming pool in nearby Renaca. to the next. But the place to visit in Viña is the Municipal Casino. Gamblers can RESTAURANTS. Anastasia. Expensive. Beautiful beachfront restaurant in while away their money (or make a pile) at roulette or baccarat (punto nearby Reñaca. Excellent food in the top-floor dining room; ground-floor snack bar y banca) in elegant surroundings during the high season, September 15 and sophisticated shops. to March 15, from 5 P.M. to 5 A.M.; from 5 P.M. to 2A.M. in low season. And One block from Hotel San Martin. Armandita. Expensive. Sumptuous Argentine-style steaks on individual grills. for nongamblers, the Casino has a full-scale nightclub and boite with top national and international acts, excellent food and drink, and plenty of Chez Gerald. Expensive. Good French cooking; dancing; two outdoor terraces; good bar; Ave. Peru, corner of 6 Norte. dancing space. Funds from the Casino have contributed much to making San Marcos. Moderate. Good Italian food, next door to Armandito, above. Viña the clean, attractive, progressive city it is. In Viña take advantage of the victorias, horse-drawn carriages that are CASINOS. Municipal Casino, the biggest of the casinos, is open daily, year- found everywhere. They are fun for drives along the shore road and round. Large gambling salons, full-size cabaret and boite with Chile's best dance through the quiet shaded streets, and they are less expensive than cabs. bands. Saturday evening there is also a show in the main dining room. (In Viña, as in many other Chilean cities, taxicabs have no meters. Be care- ful not to get taken; ask cuánto before leaving.) Around Valparaíso and Viña del Mar are a number of towns in Chile's Central Valley. Quillota, as Charles Darwin said, is a bit of the tropics THE NORTH installed in Chile. It is considered to be a place to go for a rest, and its fruits are exported to the rest of Chile. Other towns in the area are Lim- ache, Olmué, Quilpué ("City of the Sun"), and El Granizo. Algarrobo, To the north of Santiago lies the great Atacama, the driest desert in a small town 50 miles south, has become a very popular middle-class vaca- the world. Endowed with a special beauty all its own (sunset on the Ataca- tion spot, boasting small sailing boats, and good seafood restaurants and ma is a wonder, with the sands taking on a thousand different tones), it hotels. Villa Alemana is famous as a rest spot. La Calera is an important is also spotted with oases all the way up to the northern border. railway center. LA SERENA PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE COAST The first major city to the north-and one of the most charming-is La Serena, more than 300 miles from Santiago. The region is famous for VALPARAISO its climate and fruits, and ex-President Gabriel González Videla, a native son, gave the city great impetus by rebuilding many of its public buildings HOTEL. Prat Hotel, Moderate, 1443 Condell St. (253081). 60-room commercial in a picturesque Spanish style. Its plazas contain well-designed gardens, hotel in city center. and flowers can be seen almost everywhere. Big trees along Francisco de 306 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 307 Aguirre Avenue lend their shadows and their ancient beauty, and two hills, the Santa Lucía and the Cerro Grande, provide excellent views of COPIAPÓ the city and the sea. La Serena also has an archeological museum, located in the great mansion of Count Villaseñor, highlighted by a collection of Copiapó, another 150 miles to the north, was one of Chile's most impor- art by the Diaguitas Indians. tant cities during the fat years of the last century. Most of the cultural Near La Serena is the Cerro Tololo Observatory, second in the world life of the country was centered in it, and Santiago, compared to Copiapó, in the size and sophistication of its equipment. This observatory and two was practically a provincial city. The Southern Hemisphere's first railroad others, Las Campanas and La Silla, are located here to take advantage and the country's first public lighting service, technical education system, of the region's extraordinary air conditions: more days of sunshine than and state school were all in Copiapó. All the bills were paid by the mining anywhere else, no cloud cover day or night, and the air is totally smog revenues, especially from the silver mines of Chañarcillo, which were dis- free. Astronomers declare the site unequaled for atmospheric clarity. covered by the famed Juan Godoy. La Serena's well-known beaches are El Faro, which takes on a festive North of Copiapó are the two-mile-apart seaports of Chañaral and Bar- look during holidays; Punta Teatinos; Las Cuatro Esquinas; and Caleta quito, from which the copper production of nearby Potrerillos and El Sal- del Arrayán. Four miles from the city by paved road is the Balneario de vador is shipped. The latter is at an elevation of 7,800 feet. Some 15,000 Peñuelas, with its extraordinary view, cabins, and restaurant service. A people live there. Vallenar, south of Copiapó, is near the iron ore field of El Algarrobo, one of the most important in the country. Huasco is Valle- nearby racetrack and airfield complete the picture. Coquimbo is La Serena's seaport, and near it is La Herradura, with a nar's port, 30 miles away, and is famous for its wines and its pisco, as well hotel, several motels, and caves where Sir Francis Drake is believed to as for its seafood. Caldera is 52 miles northwest of Copiapó; in 1851 the first railway in the hemisphere was built between these two cities. The have hidden treasure. Nearby Vicuña is the birthplace of Chile's Nobel main activity of this port is the loading of minerals. Prize poetess Gabriela Mistral, and she is buried (according to her wishes) in Monte Grande. Andacollo, another of the region's attractions, has col- PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR COPIAPÓ orful religious celebrations that attract about 100,000 believers and tour- ists yearly. Tongoy, a beach resort, is well known for its delicious seafoods. HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Also well known are the beach resort of Los Vilos and the beach at Pichi- Diego de Almeyda Hotel. Expensive. O'Higgins 646 (2575). Facing the plaza of the dangui (both farther south along the coast). important mining center of Copiapó. 30 double rooms with private baths, several sitting, rooms, ample gardens, dining room-restaurant, bar, card room, tea room. PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR LA SERENA AND ENVIRONS Hosteria De Chañaral. Moderate. Miller No. 268. Also at seaside, a modern building with 9 single and 10 double rooms, all with private bath and a view of HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." the Pacific. Terraces, dining room-restaurant, bar. Chañaral is an important embar- Bucanero. Expensive. Av. Costanera (312-231). Located at La Herradura, near La kation port for iron ore, nitrate, and copper. Serena's seaport of Coquimbo. Seascapes in view from the private balconies. Excel- Hosteria Puerta del Sol. Moderate. Wheelwright No. 750, at seaside. Seven dou- ble rooms with private baths, dining room-restaurant, bar, sitting room in new lent restaurant and bar. Cabañas Mistral. Expensive. Located at nearby La Herradura, these 12 new, building. Caldera is 53 miles from Copiapó by paved road running through the tasteful cabins feature 1 or 2 bedrooms, dining room, kitchenette, and bathroom. Pampa Salitrera (nitrates). A picturesque place, considered the beach resort of Co- piapó. The swimming pool and beautiful restaurant overlook the protected bay and its Hosteria Vallenar. Moderate. Alonso de Ercilla 850. Modern two-story building excellent beach. Hotel Francisco De Aguirre. Expensive. Cordovez 210 (212-351). La Serena's surrounded by terraces, gardens, ponds. 19 double rooms with private baths, big sitting room, bar, dining room, restaurant. Vallenar is an important mining city. largest hotel, a modern three-story building with 73 double rooms with private baths. Large sitting room, bar, restaurant, sauna, pool, and boite. Large terraces surrounded by gardens. Ample facilities. ANTOFAGASTA Jardín del Mar. Expensive. Avenida del Mar (312-823). Recently opened beauti- ful motel with excellent accommodations, comfortable 4- 6-bed cabins, and magnifi- The province of Antofagasta, still further north, is renowned because, cent gardens surrounding large pool. Each cabin features TV, bath, bedroom, sitting for 360 days of the year, it has the highest solar intensity in the world. room, kitchenette, and terrace. Its geysers (of Tatio) attract many tourists, and like the rest of the north Cabinas De Peñuelas. Moderate. American-style motel four miles from La Sere- it is chiefly desert and mountain ranges. Famed archeological zones such na by paved road. The motel has several cabins located by the sea, each with sitting as Pucará are in the region. The capital city of the province is also named room, bedroom, bath, and terraced garden. Each cabin accommodates six people. Antofagasta, center of copper and nitrate mining activity. The city is an The Casino provides excellent restaurant service. The view is magnificent. Water important railway center through which pass the international lines to La skiing and skin diving in the temperate sea. Paz, Bolivia, and Salta, Argentina. Much of Bolivia's international com- Hosteria Vicuña. Moderate. 35 miles from La Serena by paved road. 14 recently merce passes through Antofagasta, according to the treaty signed after renovated double rooms with private baths, dining room, bar, sitting room, terrace, the War of the Pacific. swimming pool. Vicuña is a quiet city with a wonderful climate and is near the "Termas de Toro" (Bull Thermal Baths). Antofagasta is a progressive city. Its beautiful plazas and parks are a Turismo Ovalle. Moderate. Located at one corner of the plaza in the city of Ova- tribute to man's conquest of the desert. The Plaza Colón has a big West- lle. Comfortable rooms-13 singles and 19 doubles-with dining room, bar, tea minster Clock donated by the British residents, and the Spanish and Yugo- room, large sitting room. Thirty miles from the excellent beach of Tongoy, well slavian communities have also contributed monuments and adornments known for seafood and temperate waters. for the city's beautification. 308 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 309 For sports enthusiasts, Antofagasta has a fine Sporting Club, tennis Hosteria Calama. Moderate. J.J. La Torre No. 1521. 14 rooms opening onto ter- courts, a golf course, and an Automobile Club. Deepsea fishing is a favorite races, sitting room, dining room-restaurant, and bar. Calama is 140 miles from An- sport, but requires arrangements made by a travel agent. tofagasta and very near Chuquicamata, the largest open pit copper mine in the world. Best-known beaches are the Balneario Municipal, the Isla de la Chimba (also known as Guamán), and La Portada, where just offshore the action Hosteria San Pedro De Atacama. Moderate. A comfortable, recently improved inn in the town where time seems to have stopped at the beginning of the colonial of the waves over the centuries carved a hole in a rock, leaving an arch period. San Pedro de Atacama is full of incredible archeological treasures, and a that looks like a doorway (portada), from which the name is derived. On famous museum has been built for the mummies found there and for the ceramics the city's highest hill is painted an enormous anchor, which greeted the and Indian art of the area. The town is 60 miles from Calama. arrival of the steamship Peru in 1886, one of the first to arrive in Antofa- Hosteria Tal Tal. Moderate. Esmeralda 671. Paved road from Antofagasta to gasta Bay. the south leads to Taltal. At seaside, with 10 double rooms, each with private bath. Calama, 136 miles northeast of Antofagasta, is a desert oasis located Terrace facing the sea, sitting room, dining room-restaurant, bar. Near Taltal is the Chiu-Chiu Lagoon, over 900 feet deep, where legend claims some of the Inca more than 6,000 feet above sea level. Its Calemeño wine has become quite treasures were sunk. Chiu-Chiu is still a colonial town in it's way of life and its archi- famous, as have its melons and sweet corn. Its chinchilla farms provide tecture. luxury furs. Hosteria Tocopilla. Moderate. Decorated with contemporary art, it has 14 rooms A few miles north of Calama is Chuquicamata, the largest open pit cop- with private baths and faces the sea. Beautiful gardens flank the inn, which also per mine in the world, and the nitrate plants of Maria Elena and Pedro has three very comfortable sitting rooms, a dining room-restaurant, and a bar. The de Valdivia. Also near Calama is Dupont explosives factory, which sup- inn is half a mile from Tocopilla by paved road. Tocopilla embarks nitrate from nearby deposits. Deepsea fishing is famous in Tocopilla; swordfish and tuna are plies most of the explosives used in Chilean mines. sought by fishing fans from many parts of the world. The province features the additional seaports of Tocopilla (north of An- tofagasta) and Taltal (south of Antofagasta). Through Tocopilla goes IQUIQUE much of the nitrate from the pampas and the copper from the Chuquica- mata mine. It has some very good beaches (Punta Blanca and Caleta Bay, Patriotic Chileans have a special place in their hearts for the northern the latter with seawater swimming pool) and is famous as a site for deepsea port city of Iquique. It is not because of the battle won, as in the case of fishing. Swordfish and black marlin abound in its waters. Arica or Maipo, but because of the battle lost at sea by Arturo Prat during Throughout the area are many ancient towns lost among the salt and the 1879 War of the Pacific. The war was just beginning on May 21, 1879, the desert sand, some truly prehistoric and others reminders of the golden when the great warship Huáscar of the Peruvian Navy arrived at Iquique days of nitrate. Sixty miles southeast of Calama is San Pedro de Atacama, accompanied by a smaller warship. Two small wooden ships under the where the late Jesuit priest Alfred le Paige of Belgium worked for many command of Captain Arturo Prat were Chile's only defense. But Prat years uncovering secrets of the Atacameño Indians. Father le Paige fought the giant enemy until his own craft was practically broken in half. worked for over a quarter of a century to found the now internationally When the ships collided, Prat and a few of his followers jumped aboard famous archeological museum. Many scholars come to Chile with the sole the enemy ship, only to die under the bullets of Peruvian guns. But his purpose of visiting it; one of its distinguished guests was ex-King Leopold heroic gesture fired up the whole country, and this fervor continued until of Belgium. An old church adds to the touristic and historic value. The the war ended in victory for Chile. town is also the best jump-off point for an excursion to the large and im- Iquique was a great nitrate seaport; now it is the center of the country's pressive Atacama Salt Lake. rapidly growing fishing industry, and oil drilling is also underway in the Only 22 miles from San Pedro is Toconao, rich in archeological trea- region. The city offers the tourist much local color. Many plazas seem to sures, such as the legendary Camino del Inca. It provides a superb view defy the desert with their gardens, the best known being Plaza Arturo of the Láscar Volcano. Prat. Here is a famous clock tower and the Casino Español, an artistic Chiu-Chiu is 23 miles from Calama. The baptismal basin in its parish imitation of the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Iquique also has an archeology dates from 1557, and documents found there go back to 1611. Also nearby and anthropology museum with a collection of mummies unearthed in the is the town of Pukará de Lassana, which means desert fortress-which desert surrounding the city. The mercado, with all kinds of local and im- it was. The geysers of Tatio in the same area shoot astounding hot water ported merchandise, is a favorite tourist spot and is surrounded by many columns in the midst of the scorched plains. popular restaurants with local, Peruvián, and Asiatic dishes. Today, Iqui- que is a free port. Iquique's beaches attract large crowds almost year round. Cavancha has PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR ANTOFAGASTA a beautiful street running beside it and is very close to town. The Balneario Municipal is four miles away, Playa Blanca eight miles and Piedras Buenas HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." twelve miles. It also offers fine opportunities for fishing, and several nation- Topotel Calama. Expensive. Camino Aeropuerto 1392 (212-208). This beautiful al and international records have been set here. new hotel features 60 rooms facing an interior patio with swimming pool, suana, health club, restaurant and piano bar. Iquique's Pica Valley, 85 miles from the city, is famous for its lemons, Turismo Antofagasta. Expensive. Balmaceda 2786 (224-710). A five-story luxury grapes, oranges, "guayabas," and mangos. It was discovered in 1536 by hotel with all the necessary comforts. 108 double rooms with private baths and mag- Captain Ruy Díaz. Don Pedro de Valdivia was also in the valley when nificent view of the Pacific. Large hall, bar (American bar facing sea), terrace with he made his conquering expedition in 1540. The church and bell tower gardens, swimming pool (with outdoor restaurant), big dining room opening onto of Mattias, near Pica, were built about this time. North of Pica Valley is terrace, internal gardens, boite, beauty parlor, barber shop, shops inside the hotel. Mamiña, 72 miles from Iquique and famous for its thermal baths. The Good service. The hotel owns boats and private transportation. Pampa del Tamarugal, 186 miles long and 25 to 30 miles wide, is named SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 310 311 after the "Tamarugo," a small but hardy spiked bush that grows on it. is the small but excellent San Miguel de Azapa archaeological museum A wooded area is developing. La Tirana, a fresh oasis with an annual reli- with displays of well-preserved mummies, now believed to be the world's gious celebration, is situated on the pampa. oldest-8,000 years old, they predate Egyptian mummies by 3,000 years. On the coast 60 miles north of Iquique is the small port of Pisagua, known as the land without winter. The bay, surrounded by high hills, has PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR ARICA very quiet waters, the natural setting forms a kind of overcoat over the whole village. HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Hosteria Arica. Deluxe. Facing sea, Morro de Arica (231-201). 60 double rooms PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR IQUIQUE with private baths. Also offers motel-type cabins. Dining room, sitting room, bar. Terraces and covered gardens overlooking the Pacific. Private beach. HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Motel Azapa. Deluxe. Gmo. Sanchez (242-612). Suites with kitchenette, refriger- Hosteria Cavancha. Expensive. Los Rieles 250 (21158). Three minutes south from ator, private baths, terraces and tropical park. Boite, bar, elegant swimming pool. Iquique City near Cavancha Airport. 32 double rooms with private bath. Beautiful El Paso. Expensive. Modern in design, surrounded by tropical parks and gardens. gardens with terraces facing the Pacific. Private seashore. Modern. Excellent typical Located a mile from the city of Arica by paved road. 40 double rooms with private baths. Sitting room, dining room, bar, large comfortable terraces. and international cuisine. Laundry and garage-service station. Hotel Arturo Prat. Expensive. Anival Pinto 695 (21414). Honsa chain. In down- Motel Saucache. Expensive. Ten cabins, each with own parking space. Two or town Iquique, at one corner of the Plaza de Armas, 25 singles and 26 doubles, each three bedrooms, bath, and complete kitchen. No restaurant or bar. Out in the coun- with private bath. Big sitting room, dining room, bar, and covered and open-air try on the Azapa road four miles from the center of Arica. Pleasant gardens. gardens where meals are served. Boats available for fishing and water skiing. Nearby Hotel Savona. Inexpensive. 28 rooms. Clean, well-run hotel in city center. are the Mamiña Thermal Baths, with a great medical reputation. Hotel Chucumata. Expensive. Balmaceda 850 (236-55). Beautiful resort complex CASINOS. Casino Municipal de Arica is open throughout the year. It offers bac- with 42 rooms looking over gardens and terraces with swimming pool, open-air carat, roulette, and Black Jack. There are also a good restaurant and a late-night restaurant, and bar. Located a few meters from the beach, in one of the best areas cabaret. There is also a casino in Coquimbo (Casino de Juegos de Coquimbo) open all year. of Iquique. ARICA One of the world's highest railroads, the International Railway, oper- SOUTH OF SANTIAGO ates from the far northern city of Arica to La Paz, Bolivia. (Two round trips are offered weekly in summer, and once or twice a month during the The provinces south of Santiago are mostly agricultural and there are rest of the year.) Among the city's attractions are the Vicuña Mackenna Park, the Juan fewer tourist attractions until the lake region is reached. Several thermal Noé Park (named after the doctor who fought malaria in the Azapa Val- baths are spotted along the way, among them the Cauquenes, 12 miles ley), the Church of San Marcos, designed by French architect Gustave from Rancagua by car or bus; Del Flaco, in the province of Colchagua Eiffel and declared a national monument, and the University of Tarapaca and 56 miles from the city of San Fernando, because of the altitude not Anthropological Museum. recommended for weak hearts; and Mondaca, in Talca province, off-limits Sports fans have the Carlos Dittborn Stadium, named after the late or- for heart cases. Another 22 recommended thermal baths stretch from near ganizer of the World Football Championship in Chile in 1962, a race, Iquique in the north all the way to Aysén in the south and are said to track, polo fields, a golf course, and a swimming pool. The beaches are have remarkable healing powers. beautiful, with wonderfully temperate waters, and you can swim at night At Rapel, some 60 miles from Santiago, a 40-mile-long lake has been at La Lisera, a mile from town, and at Chinchorro and Miramar on the formed by the backup from a hydroelectric dam. This lake has become northern- side of the city. very popular for fishing, sailing, swimming, and water skiing. Arica also has a gambling casino and several of the best hotels, bars, restaurants, and boites in the country. TALCA The valleys around Arica are true oases in the desert. Lluta Valley, about 10 miles from Arica, is a center of cotton, corn, wheat, and toma- The first important city on the southern trek is Talca, 150 miles from toes. Some agricultural produce comes out of the Chaca and Camarones Santiago. Situated on the River Claro, Talca is in the middle of grape, valleys. Putre, on the Arica Altiplano, has 500 inhabitants living in 100- wine, wheat, and cattle country. The town has a golf course, polo field, odd houses. Parinacota looks like a ghost town, with its ancient church swimming pools, clubs, and theaters. and closed houses. And the magnificent 18,000-foot Payachatas Volcano, The Laguna del Maule is 90 miles from Talca. It offers good rainbow with the Chungará and Cotacotani lagoons at its foot, makes an impressive trout fishing; however, the fish are small by Chilean-lake standards. Boat- sight. ing, sailing, and other water sports may be enjoyed here, although temper- Nearer Arica is the livelier Azapa Valley, with its olives and other tropi atures tend to be rather low because of the altitude. Near the lake is the cal fruits. Sugar cane is also found in some of these valleys, which now Altos de Vilches summer resort, with a hotel that is open from October and then break up the dry and almost tragic monotony of the forbidding through March. Several thermal baths are in the area, the best of them northern desert. being Panimávida, 35 miles by road. Other impressive sights are La Mina, In the valley there are still vestiges of ancient hamlets, geoglyphs, and with an inn for visitors; the small Maule Lagoon, just before the big one; pre-Spanish cemeteries. About 30 minutes by car up the valley from Arica Las Balustradas, overlooking a 900-foot cliff; the 180-foot Maule Falls and SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 312 313 the Penitentes, an incredibly beautiful sight with mountains, lava forma- fortable bedrooms, with a sitting room on each of the three floors. Two singles and tions, and exuberant vegetation. 58 doubles with private baths. Chillán offers thermal baths and nearby ski slopes, plus the interesting crater of the Chillán Volcano. Located in the center of Chillán. PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR TALCA CONCEPCIÓN HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Plaza Gran. Expensive. 1 Poniente 1141 (31515). Talca's finest, in a three-story Concepción, capital of the province by the same name, is an important building facing the Plaza de Armas. Large sitting room, dining private supper city for industry, culture, and tourism. As an industrial center it boasts room, bar on the first and second floors. 70 rooms with bath. Near Talca is Constitu- the Huachipato steel plant, coal mines, and textile plants in Tomé and ción, a famous beach resort, and 90 miles away by paved road is the Laguna de Chiguayante. Nine miles away is the sister city and port of Talcahuano, Maule, located near the Argentina border. also the principal naval port of the country and the main port for timber Hotel Marcos Gamero. Expensive. 1 Oriente 1070. New 32-room hotel now con- export. Its intellectual life is centered around the University of Concep- sidered best in city. Good restaurant and bar. ción, financed by contributions and by a twice-a-month National Lottery. The tourist attractions are many: in the center, the historical Cerro Ama- CONSTITUCIÓN rillo (Yellow Hill) offers a very good view of the town; the central plaza Constitución, a port some 60 miles from Talca, has fine bathing beaches is lovely; the modern campus of the University is the only real university city in Chile; Cerro Caracol, 300 feet high, offers a grand view of the val- and is known as a summer resort. It is surrounded by pine-covered hills, leys and the great Bío-Bío River, the largest in Chile. Across the river is and the coast is noted for its unusual rock formations and peaceful waters San Pedro, with beautiful forests and lagoons. In the largest lagoons boat- ideal for almost all water sports. There is a yearly Carnival Maulino in ing and other water sports are practiced. The principal beaches are Las February, with a masked ball and a Venetian promenade down the Maule Escaleras, reached by stairs carved in rock; Ramuntcho, named after one River. of the novels by French writer Pierre Loti who visited the place in 1875; and La Desembocadura del Río, one of the most striking places for the PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR CONSTITUCIÓN visitor who goes there for the first time. Near this beach is the Pedro del Río, Zañartu Museum, located on a farm and featuring local and Araucani- HOTELS. Hosteria Constitución. Expensive. Freire 315. The inn is located on an art objects. the banks of the Maule River and is surrounded by gardens. The bar has large win- dows and a terrace overlooking the river; the cozy dining room has a fireplace, ter- La Planchada Fort is maintained by the city as a landmark. For two race, and small tables from which you can see the view. The sitting room also has centuries this fort defended Concepción. a fireplace, plus a glass roof. 19 rooms with private baths, all looking on the magnifi- Only 19 miles from Concepción is the textile center of Tomé, famous cent Maule. Constitución is famed for its large beaches, clean and peaceful waters, for its products of exceptional quality. Tomé also has good beaches and other attractions. and rock formations. Near the port of Talcahuano is the Quiriquina Island, where the Naval CHILLÁN School has an establishment for its students, as well as the giant Huachipa- to steel plant. Seventeen miles from Concepción is Coronel, which with Next stop on the southern tour is Chillán. One section, Chillán Viejo, Lota shares the leadership in the country's coal production. The Lota retains much of its colonial air; the house where Bernardo O'Higgins, lib- mines extend for several miles under the sea. In Lota is the famous Parque erator of Chile, was born still stands. The other has avenues and all the de Lota. In the Gulf of Arauco is the Island of Santa María, and in the comforts of the 20th century. Among its attractions is the Mexico School same area is the beach resort of Laraquete, a seven-mile golden-sand beach decorated by world-famous Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros. The about an hour by car from Concepción. Cathedral is ultramodern and the plazas and parks beautiful. The "merca- do" is also a tourist attraction with its many regional products, among PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR CONCEPCIÓN them ceramics and pottery from Quinchamalí and other nearby towns. The mountains surrounding Chillán are among the most striking the tour- HOTELS. Araucano. Deluxe. Caupolican 521 (229-944). Elegant and comfort- ist will see in Chile. able hotel in the heart of the city. 300 apartments with bath and phone. Furnished Leaving the city, near Recinto, one may visit the Cueva de Los Pin- in Spanish-Araucanian style. Swimming pool. Restaurants with excellent meals. Disco, shops. Room service, laundry, garage, and service station. cheira, huge caves in which the Pincheira brothers used to hide after their Alborada. Expensive. Barros Arana 457 (228-226). 40 rooms, recently renovated; cattle stealing raids. A series of pottery-making towns-Quinchamali, very good service. Centrally located. Colliguay, Huechupin, Cuca, Chonchoral, and Confluencia-offer collec- tors original creations of the famous black pottery. Some 58 miles from Chillán at the altitude of 5,400 feet are the Chillán ski slopes, and near the slopes are the mineral springs that make the area THE CHILEAN LAKE REGION famous, with a complete hotel. PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR CHILLÁN Laja Lake HOTELS. Hotel Isabel Riquelme. Expensive. Constitucion 576' (223-664). Sit- The fabulous Chilean lake region begins in Los Angeles, some 320 miles ting rooms, smoking room, big dining room, private supper rooms, bars. Big com- south of Santiago, where the Laja Lake is located. The most famous sight 314 SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 315 in the Los Angeles region is the Laja Falls, probably the most inspiring on All Saints' Day, the second because of the emerald color of its waters. scenery in the country. The Falls start at the Laja Lake, are 4,500 feet Theodore Roosevelt described this lake as the most beautiful he had ever high, and cover 48 square miles. The Antuco Volcano is reflected in the seen, and most tourists must agree. lake, and every year fishing competitions are held there. Fifteen miles Motorboats operate on the principal lakes of this region-Esmeralda, north of Los Angeles, the Laja River, which flows from the lake, drops Llanquihue and Ranco-and most of the hotels on their banks organize some 200 feet to form the Laja Falls, or Salto del Laja. This region is fa- excellent excursions. mous for its views, and there are four volcanoes: the Antuco, the Copahue, the Tolhuaca, and the Collapén. More Than Lakes Temuco and Lake Villarrica Of course, the lake region offers more to the tourist than spectacularly beautiful views. Many of the cities mentioned have an individual charm Almost 200 miles farther south, after the Araucanian center at Temuco, that makes each of them worth a good, slow visit. is one of Chile's loveliest and most famous lakes, the Villarrica. Its 66 Valdivia, with its Calle-Calle River full of boats, was founded by Don square miles of waters change colors throughout the day. Viewed from Pedro in 1552 and is an important and busy province. The climate is the lake, the nearby Villarrica Volcano is an awesome sight. On the banks humid, and beautiful lakes, woods, beaches, and rivers surround the cities. of the Villarrica are the internationally known vacation spots of Pucón Along the waterways are countless little cool, green islands. One recom- and Villarrica, with luxury hotels and ample opportunities for fishing and mended side trip is to Llifén, on the banks of Lake Ranco, with a marvel- water sports. A legend says that if a small morro (hill) near the lake is ous hotel complete with airstrip. visited by a recently married couple the lake becomes furious. So honey- Frutillar, a charming lake resort to the Lago Llanquihue, is worth a mooners had best watch out. visit, especially during its "semanas musicales" (classical music festival) held every summer from the end of January to the first third of February. Valdivia It is renowned for its Germanic atmosphere. Osorno is one of the many cities inhabited by great numbers of German Next in line, in the province of Valdivia, is the beautiful Lake descendants whose forefathers colonized the region. Here the German lan- Panguipulli, whose name means "puma hill" in English. There is a small guage is used almost as much as Spanish. Even road signs and menus are and very good privately owned hotel ("hosteria"). Excursions can be made printed in German in some places, and its wonderfully organized streets from the Hosteria Cancahuasi (ex-Rainbow Fly Club), a good fisherman's look like a bit of old Europe. Among the many interesting excursions (be- hotel in Chan Chan. Also in Valdivia are the Lake Pirihueico, closer to sides those to the lakes) are the La Picada and Antillanca ski resorts. The the border with Argentina and with a hotel on its bank offering excursion first, 53 miles from Osorno, includes a view of Osorno Volcano, with its services; Lake Calafquén, offering excellent fishing but no hotel; Lake top quality ski slopes, and transportation is provided by car or bus to the Riñihue, with two lovely hotels, connected with Panguipulli by the truly 120-guest hostelry run by the Club Andino de Osorno. Antillanca, 62 miles beautiful Enco River, down which a one-day fishing excursion can be away and 12 miles from Puyehue, is 4,200 feet above sea level. Here the made; Lake Ranco, with 23 islands well known for its excellent fishing Club Andino has a 50-bed inn and provides buses that leave Osorno every (fish up to 18 pounds have been taken from the lake) and a game deer Saturday at 2:30 P.M. and return Sunday evening. hunting private island. Hostería Riñinahue is considered to be one of the The city of Puerto Montt from which the trip through the zone of canals best fishing spots in the lake district and offering the most beautiful scenery begins, is famous for its seafoods and its seaport. It also has Isla de Tenglo imaginable as well. with its famous curantos. Nearby is Maullín, with its lovely river. Osorno PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE LAKE REGION The province of Osorno holds forth even greater wonders. The first lake, HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Puyehue, contains some wonderful islands filled with native birds and has LAJA FALLS. Hosteria Salto del Laja. Expensive. Veritably beside the Laja marvelous waterfalls and a big, good hotel for tourists. Near the lake are Falls, this modern, very comfortable inn is designed to provide its guests with a the Puyehue Thermal Baths, considered by many the finest hot springs beautiful view without ever leaving the motel. A bar, dining room, and swimming establishment in all of South America. The fishing is, again, superb. Fur- pool add to the visitors' comfort. ther south, Lake Rupanco, a bit nearer to the city of Osorno has top fishing LOS ANGELES. Mariscal Alcazar. Expensive. This modern building located and famous hot springs, but unfortunately tourist facilities are limited. in the center of the city features a sitting room with fireplace, dining room opening On to the south in the province of Llanquihue is the biggest of them onto terrace, bar, 25 double rooms with private baths. Near the city are the famous all: Lake Llanquihue. Near Puerto Montt, and with marvelous Puerto Laja Falls (120 feet high), a beautiful natural attraction. Varas on its banks, Llanquihue measures 320 square miles and in some TEMUCO. Nuevo Hotel La Frontera. Deluxe. Bulnes 726 (36190). Luxurious parts is 1,500 feet deep. Its waters are deep blue, and it is the scene for 55-room hotel with swimming pool, solarium, conference room, bar, dining room. many water sports and some very good fishing. The lake is surrounded Located downtown. by some of the world's most beautiful volcanoes, especially the Osorno, LAKE VILLARRICA. Antumalal. Deluxe. 2 km from Pucón (441-011). One of Chile's most fabulous, on the banks of Lake Villarrica. Famous for its views and with its eternally snow-capped peak. The sight is absolutely breathtaking. its service, it has been visited by such personalities as Queen Elizabeth, Prince Phil- Osorno Volcano also lends its majestic presence to Lake Todos Los San- ip, and Barry Goldwater. The hotel organizes fishing and hunting trips for its guests. tos, also known as Esmeralda-the first name because it was discovered 20 rooms with private baths. Located on a small hill surrounded by forests. SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 316 317 Gran Hotel Pucon. Expensive. Holpzafel 190 (441-001). Located on the banks and touches scores of fishing villages. The region is not well developed of Lake Villarrica with an overwhelming view of some of the world's most beautiful to receive tourists, but the trip is unforgettable. The trip takes about 10 Sitting room, bar, dining room, private supper room, game room, tennis courts, scenery. terraces overlooking the lake, large gardens, "pergolas" (summer houses), days and visits a great variety of picturesque towns, passing dozens of and docks on the lake. Offers water skiing, horseback riding, hiking, excellent fish- small islands so covered in vegetation that they seem to be plants sprouting ing, and hunting. Hotel has boats and transportation facilities for guests. 130 rooms, from the water. Sailors and those living in the area call them maceteros (flower pots). The fishermen who populate the area will be seen around all with private bath. Motel Yachting Club Villarrica. Expensive. San Martin 802 (441-191). On the the hundreds of canals-a hardy people living amidst beautiful but cruel banks of the lake, with broad gardens. Swimming pool, sauna. Boats for fishing natural surroundings. and yachts. On the big Island of Chiloé are two towns with tourist accommodations: VALDIVIA. Hotel Villa del Rio. Expensive. Av. Espãna 1025 (216-292). On Ancud and Castro. Ancud, the capital of the province, is four hours from bank of Calle Calle River near city center. 50 rooms, yacht basin, gardens, restau- Puerto Montt by boat, or 1½ hours by car and ferry. The bay of Ancud rant, bar. Pedro de Valdivia. Expensive. Carampangue 180 (212-931). Modern building is famous for its beauty, and the many attractions include the Cerro Cara- surrounded by gardens, with large sitting room, dining room, magnificent bar. The coles, from which the panorama of the city and its surroundings can be hotel is decorated with beautiful murals and has an elegant boite, 85 double rooms seen. Near Ancud is the fort of San Antonio, the last Spanish stronghold with private baths. The city is famous for it's beauty, located on the banks of the in the War of Independence, as well as La Máquina (the machine), so Calle-Calle River. Several picturesque towns along the river can be reached by boats called because there the first mechanized timber mill in South America leaving Valdivia. The region is also famous for its forests. was installed in 1828. Other attractive places are the thermal baths in LAKE CALAFQUEN. Hosteria Calafquen. Expensive. On the banks of the lake bearing the same name, this inn is of rustic design and offers almost every tourist Llanchahué across the bay of Ancud, and such spots as Faro de Aquí, comfort. Three floors and a bar, dining room, sitting room, terraces. Three single Faro de Punta Corona, Mar Brava, and Chacao. rooms and 50 doubles, each with private bath. The region offers unlimited opportu- Castro is located on the banks of the Castro Canal and surrounded by nities for good fishing, hunting, and water sports. From the inn the tourist can reach small islands and towns. As all ships going or coming in the southern re- San Martín de los Andes in Argentina. gion must stop there, its commercial and maritime life is very important. OSORNO. Hotel del Prado. Expensive. Cochrane 1162 (235-020) has become Of special attraction in the area are the towns of Huillinco, Queilén, Quel- Osorno's best. Four blocks from the city center on the corner of Cochrane and Bil- lón and Chonchi, the latter with a small wooden church. bao Sts. 20 rooms, color TV, bar, dining room. Hotel Waeger. Moderate. Cochrane 816 (233-721). 25 rooms, restaurant, good Some of the best kept secrets in South America are the spectacular fjord cruises in Chilean Patagonia, operating from Puerto Montt and Chiloé downtown location. LAKE PUYEHUE. Gran Hotel Termas de Puyehue. Expensive. (231-1004 in to the magnificent San Rafael glacier. The Skorpios cruises, with M/S Santiago). Located on the banks of Lake Puyehue, the hotel has thermal baths. tennis The Skorpios I (79 passengers) and M/S Skorpios II (150 passengers) offer Sat- building is modern with many extras: swimming pool with hot thermal water, double urday departures for weekly cruises from September through April. The courts, riding stables, boats for fishing and water skiing. 100 single and safe, peaceful six-day trip through southern Chile's fiords is an incompara- rooms. Near the hotel is the Salto del Pilmaiquén (Pilmaiquén Falls) and the Antil- ble experience. The scenery includes mountains, icebergs, the channels, lanca Volcano, with famous ski slopes. island valleys, fiords, and small fishing villages. Nilque Motel. Expensive. (234-960 in Osorno). Located on the shores of Lake Puyehue is one of Chile's finest resorts. Forty attractive cabins' line the private beach. Activities include boating, fishing, and horseback riding. Rodeo complex PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR as well as full facilities for children. It is probably Chile's premier family resort PUERTO MONTT, CHILOE, AND THE CANAL REGION Refugio Antillanca. Moderate. (727-812 in Santiago). A short 12 miles from Puyehue, on the Antillanca Volcano ski slopes. Newly constructed accommoda HOTELS. PUERTO MONTT. Perez Rosales. Expensive. Av. Varas 447 (252- tions for more than 100 skiers in twins, triples, and quads. Bar, disco, dining room 571). Of rustic design, its balconies were carved by Chilean artists to represent typi- PUERTO VARAS. Hotel y Cabanas del Lago. Expensive. (232-291). A good. cal scenes of the "Chilote" people who live along the channels of the Reloncavi lake-shore hotel with 40 doubles featuring private bath, TV, charming decoration Gulf. Five floors, large luxurious sitting room, big dining rooms beautifully decorat- with local wood, and a fantastic view over Lake Llanquihue and its breathtaking and with fireplaces, bar, private supper rooms, beauty parlor, barber shop, com- Volcan Osorno. Best hotel in area. Near casino, resort facilities. mercial shops. 52 double rooms with small sitting room, one three-bed room, and Hotel Licarayen. Moderate. San Jose 114 (232-305). A small, 16-room inn coe six-bed room. Puerto Montt is a must for the tourist. A clean city on the sea, the lake shore with à marvelous view. A new wing with 6 beautiful doubles WE 0 has a great panoramic view of the Reloncaví Gulf, Tenglo Island, and several cleanoes. Its seafood is famous all over the country, especially "centollas." recently added. Hotel Bellavista. Moderate. (232-520). Excellent new tourist-class hotel (opened Hotel Colina. Moderate. Talca 81 (253-502). Comfortable 55-room hotel facing 1988). 30 lake-view rooms with private baths. Restaurant, bar, very good location on Good restaurant and bar. RALUN. Hotel Ralun. Deluxe. (252-100). An impressive and beautiful resort front of the Reloncaví fjord. The hotel is located 60 miles from Puerto Montt offers accommodations for over 60 guests in large cabins and twin-room motel- tipe facilities. The resort features tennis, horses, boating, fishing, and conference BEYOND THE LAKES lities for groups up to 25. Surroundings are incomparably beautiful, and reminis- of the Norwegian fiord country. CHILOE. Hosteria Ancud. Expensive. (2340). A rustic, solid building with sit- PUERTO MONTT AND CHILOÉ room, bar, dining room, 12 singles and 12 doubles, each with private bath. region is famous as a tourist attraction because of the many picturesque towns For those with a pioneer spirit, the boat trip from Puerto Montt is hig on the Island of Chiloé. Its forests and mountains are much admired. recommended. The boat leaving Puerto Montt makes the run of the port Hesteria Castro. Expensive. (2301). A modern building with bar, sitting room, SOUTH AMERICA CHILE 319 318 dining room, 12 singles and 12 doubles with private baths, plus an extra 12-bed room. Unicornio In the Azúl. same region Moderate. as the Avda. Hosteria Pedro Ancud. Montt 228 (2359). A new hotel with 18 rooms with private bath, bar and restaurant. EASTER ISLAND MAGALLANES Chile's mysterious Easter Island lies 2,355 miles due west from the Chil- Chile's southern province of Magallanes is centered around industry Lon- ean coast. The island, alone amid over 1,000,000 sq. miles of empty Pacific, and and other European cities. The production from oil fields agriculture. Great herds of sheep are there, which are shipped supplies to is called Rapa Nui, or "Navel of the World," by its 2,000 plus Polynesian residents. don with almost one-third of the petroleum consumed in the country. revenue. Easter Island is a vast outdoor museum where over 600 giant stone stat- Chile and whales in the area are used to provide a large, source of Arenas ues have intrigued visitors for centuries. Almost every part of the triangu- Seals interesting 4-day, 3-night tour can be arranged from Punta of Punta lar shaped 45 square mile island's volcanic landscape is dotted with the strange statues. An Tierra del Fuego, with visits to ranches, oil fields and a tour industrial The island's lone town is Hanga Roa where the airstrip and main hotel to Punta Arenas is an important seaport and cattle and at- are located. Accommodations are limited and reservations may be made Arenas. Oil is found in several nearby fields, and the area offers many went by writing the hotel's U.S. representative: Hotel Hanga Roa, c/o LARC, region. tractions to the enterprising tourist. The first oil-production platform Box 1435, Dundee Fl. For reservations at other hotels or guest houses con- on flow in 1979. tact a Santiago travel agent. A second famous Chilean island is located within the Juan Fernandez archipelago 403 mi. west of Valparaiso. The isle is now officially known Punta Arenas as Robinson Crusoe Island and is now home to 800 Chilean fishermen who The city's attractions include Cerro La Cruz, from which the city at and the offer increasingly frequent visitors rustic lodging and often spectacular Strait can be seen; racing tracks, golf course, and tennis courts ZOO seafood meals featuring the world's largest lobsters. The island may be the an ice skating rink and indoor stadium for sports fans; a Park. reached by charter flights from the Chilean mainland. For scheduled ser- Club the Hípico; Pudeto Artillery Regiment; and the María Behety Municipal culture vice contact Turismo COCHA in Santiago. at Its Salesiano Regional Museum is filled with information on the of the Yagane, Ona, and Alacalufe Indians. miles from Punta Arenas, atop the Patagonian Andes, are More ski Four that feature runs more than a mile long that drop 1,200 feet. Also near- ANTARCTICA slopes information is available from Santiago's Club Andino de Chile. site of fox farms, Seco (Dry) River, Loreto Mine, and the historic can be Chile is fast becoming the major gateway for tourist travel to Antarcti- by Fort are Bulnes where the first settlers managed to survive. Boat trips ca, the Straits of Magellan, Beagle Channel, Cape Horn, South Georgia, made to the islands of Magdalena, Marta, and Contramaestre. and the Falkland and South Orkney islands. Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams are the gateway cities for air and sea departures to the white con- PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR PUNTA ARENAS tinent: Travel is offered during the Austral summer, from November through March. Cabo de Hornos. Expensive. Plaza M. Gamero 1025 (222-134). Seven Leader in cruises to Antarctica is Society Expeditions, 3131 Elliot Ave, HOTELS. building with 150 deluxe rooms, each with private bath and telephone. service, garage. Large Suite 700, Seattle, WA 98121. Society's cruises feature luxury expedition story reception hall, restaurant, bar, Winter Garden, laundry and valet new and ships, each complete with a fleet of outboard Zodiacs that permit landings Los Navegantes Hotel. Moderate. Jose Menéndez 647 (224-677). Fifty on the Antarctic mainland and offshore islands. Fourteen scheduled de- comfortable rooms. partures from Puerto Williams and Punta Arenas for cruises of 10 to 21 days. Air travel tours to Chile's Lt. Marsh Antarctic Base is also offered via CHILEAN PATAGONIA Chilean military aircraft with accommodations in Antarctica's only hos- A road now leads from Punta Arenas through 150 miles the of Pata- new telry-the 35-room Hotel Estrella Polar. Contact Travcoa World Tours, gonian Estancia Rio Penitente offers rustic luxury on a working Puerto paved wilderness to Puerto Natales. At the 140-km marker, sheep 875 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, or one of the listed travel agen- cles in Santiago. Hostal In Puerto Natales, the small, modern Hotel Eberhard, links ranch. 25, is the best. Beyond Puerto Natales an all-weather road both Montt Milodon Cave and Torres del Paine National Park, which are ac- the worth visit. Within the park, the Hosteria Pehoe offers comfortable Pehoe. commodations a and spectacular dining-room views across Lake Chile's Patagonia remains a frontier for adventure travel-fishing white-water rafting, mountain climbing, and wildlife photography PD - Check into a Chillan writer named Gabriela Mistral. She wrote about world friendship & the erotherhood of Latin American nations - I wanted to use her for Brazil ent A think Id better find a Bragilian I believe she may have won a peace prize (1940's?) - shes restainly very well known in So America. I had a Xerox (encycloperia?) ent cant find it. sorry. THE WHITE HOUSE WASHINGTON FACSIMILE TRANSMITTAL SHEET NUMBER OF PAGES INCLUDING COVER 2 DATE 11/13/90 TO Roperta Jacobson FAX NUMBER 647-0791 OFFICE NUMBER 647-9393 COMMENTS We only need the color info - FROM Peggy Dooley OFFICE NUMBER 647-07456-7750 PALACIO DE LA MONEDA 1784 Buliver" It's located Ocupa la manzana comprendida entre las callesC the Moneda, Teatinos, Morandé y Avenida del Li-'f the streas! bertador Bernarndo Higgins Moneda, Tectinos, Morande the Ave of Liberator Bernardo Othigg Es obra del arquitecto italiano Joaquín Toesca Constructed y Ricci, iniciándose su construcción en el año in 1784 by 1784, para albergar la Real Casa de Moneda. the Italian Fue inaugurado aún inconcluso en 1805. Es el architect major example más claro y mejor ejemplo de arquitectura neo- of neoclassical in chile. clásica existente en Chile. 0 6 12 :8 m En 1848 se habilita para residencia de los Presi- used as the residence for chilean Presidents since 1848. dentes de Chile. En 1922 se trasladan los talleres de amoneda- In 1922, offices of the Palace (ministers etc) were added - ción y se destina el total del Palacio a algunos ministerios y oficinas de gobierno, además de Casa Presidencial. Predomina en el conjunto el sentido horizontal, lo que le otorga una imagen de gran estabilidad. Machones estructurales de grandes proporciones se acusan sobriamente en las fachadas que, sin embargo, enriquecidos por bien proporcionados cornisamento generan un interesante juego de luces Y sombras. Hacia el interior los volúmenes están organiza- The interior dos en torno a cuatro patios: tres en la zona organized norte, siendo el del centro el patio de honor patius de acceso y uno posterior que se generó por la demolición en el año 1940 del antiguo cuerpo central de los talleres de fundición, dando lugar al ya tradicional "Patio de los Naranjos" Patio of Oranges (dinuer site J) La estructura está constituida por gruesos muros de albañileria de ladrillo. Fue declarado Monumento Nacional el año de 1951. Declared a nt'l monument in 1951. 108 MOLINA G., JUAN I. MONEDA, PALACIO DE LA agosto de 1871. Profesor de historia de 1743, firmada por Felipe V. La y abogado. Fue profesor del Liceo instalación tuvo un costo de 90 mil de Chillán (1893), rector del Liceo de pesos. Su primer concesionario fue Talca (1905) y del de Concepción Francisco García Huidobro. Se le- (1916). Allí nació la idea de una uni- vantó en la propiedad de calle Huér- versidad penquista de la que fue fun- fanos. esquina de Morandé. Poste- dador y rector por un largo período. riormente se trasladó al edificio Autor de numerosas obras de filoso- contruido por el arquitecto italiano fia. Murió el 8 de marzo de 1964. José Toesca y Richi (noviembre 1784-85) en el sitio "de los MOLINA GONZÁLEZ, Juan Ig- Teatinos" (actual Moneda). El 10 de nacio (abate-Molina). Nació en la septiembre de 1749 se selló la prime- hacienda de Guaraculén, situada ra moneda de cordoncillo, una me- entre los ríos Maule y Loncomilla, el dia onza de oro con el busto de Fer- 23 de junio de 1737 (24 de junio de nando VI, pues Felipe V ya había 1740, según otras fuentes). Investi- fallecido. gador científico y sacerdote jesuita. EN 1846, durante el segundo pe- Tras la expulsión de la Compañía de ríodo de Manuel Bulnes, el edificio Jesús (1767), viajó a Europa, radi- pasó a servir de Casa de Gobierno. cándose en Bolonia. Allí desarrolló El establecimiento de acuñación de una gran labor científica, que plas- monedas se trasladó a un edificio mó en sus obras Compendio de His- ubicado al interior de la Quinta Nor- toria Geográfica, Natural y Civil de mal. Chile (publicada en 1776, y luego en MONEDA, Palacio de la. Fue 1782, con el. título de Ensayo sobre construído según planos del ar- la Historia de Chile), Historia Natu- quitecto italiano Joaquín Toesca, a ral (1810) y Memorias (1821). Falle- fines del siglo XVIII. En un-comien- ció en Bolonia el 12 de septiembre de zo estuvo destinado a la acuñación 1829. de monedas, hasta- que en 1846 el Presidente Bulnes decidió ocuparlo MOLINO DEL CIEGO, Batalla del como residencia presidencial. El cos- Tuvo lugar el 14 de enero de 1657, en to de las reparaciones, dirigidas por el lugar donde actualmente se levanta el arquitecto Vicente Larraín, llegó a el pueblo de San Rafael. Las fuerzas la crecida suma de $ 44.000, lo que del mestizo Alejo rodearon a las es- motivó que se motejara a Bulnes de pañolas, comandadas por Pedro derrochador. El escándalo aumentó Gallegos. Al día siguiente, al llegar cuando se solicitaron $ 20.000 para refuerzos, los españoles sólo en- adquirir en Francia el mobiliario ne- contraron los cadáveres de sus com- cesario. Durante la primera admi- pañeros y unos pocos heridos. nistración de Ibáñez se le hicieron di- versas modificaciones. Arturo Ales- MONEDA, Casa de. La Casa de sandri la llamaba "la casa donde Moneda es el servicio fiscal más anti- tanto se sufre". El 11 de septiembre guo del país. Fue fundada en San- de 1973 fue bombardeado y debió ser tiago por real cédula el 1° de octubre sometido a reparaciones. 109 ZONA SANTIAGO Y ALREDEDORES PRESENTACION SECTORES F DCO más de la mitad de la población de Chile o PUTAENDO vive en Santiago y sus alrededores. Todos los fi- SAN FELIPE nes de semana miles de automovilistas viajan en familia, hacia la costa o la cordillera, dependien- 2 LOS ANDES do de la temporada. Aquí damos a conocer los otros innumerables atractivos que esta zona po- CON CON PORTILLO see y que, por ser casi desconocidos, permiten VIÑA DEL MAR realizar un bello paseo sin el habitual congestio- VALPARAISO namiento automovilístico. 3 CHACABUCO El territorio comprendido en esta zona abarca LA PARVA desde el Valle de Aconcagua por el norte hasta TILTILO Angostura de Pelequén por el sur. Al oriente inclu- FARELLONES ! e el sector cordillerano y hacia el poniente se ex- 1 ende hasta las tierras "costinas" incluyendo ! uangue, lago Rapel y poblados de La Estrella y Litueche. 4 8 SANTIAGO La delimitación de "Santiago y Alrededores" ha SAN ANTONIO sido determinada por el radio de acción de un pa- OPOMAIRE seo familiar por el día, en automóvil. La descrip- MELIPILLA PIRQUE O ción de los recorridos propuestos está presenta- T LO VALDES da en 9 sectores que son LAG 5 ACULEO 1 Cludad de Santiago con sus principales cen- I 8 EL VOLCAN tros de interés. 2 Valle de Aconcagua con Los Andes, San Feli- ALHUE LAGO pe y valles interiores. RAPEL 2 :] Cuenca de Chacabuco Gran Valle al norte de RANCAGUA antiago. -, Sector Cordillera con los caminos a Portillo, a LA ESTRELLA Farellones y Cajón del Maipo. 6-7 5 Llanos del Maipo con Pirque, Calera de Tango y alrededores. PEUMO PELEQUEN 6 Valle de Rancagua hacia el sur de Angostura de Paine. 7 Valle del Cachapoal desconocidos parajes --odjey up your uses que bordean este río. CHILE 8 Valle del Mapocho todos los atractivos camino a la costa. AM 3 Tierras Costinas parajes y pueblos al ponien- :e de Santiago. 8 63 Panamericana Norte 1 2 a Los Andes Santiago Metropolitano CENTRO DE SANTIAGO CENTRO BELLAVISTA CENTRO PROVIDENCIA Paseos 1,2,3 Paseo 7 Paseo 8 Paseo 4 PARQUE METROPOLITANO Pasep5 NUEVOS BARRIOS LO BARNECHEA 6 CONCHALI QUILICURA Rio Comodoro A Merino Benitez VESPUCIO & DISCONAL INDEPENDENCIA JMCARO RECOLETA Mapocho Aeropuerto Internacional SCONDES arettones AV KENNEDY VITACURA DEL ALBA RENCA AL APOSTOL SANTIAGO STA AV STA MARIA R/O Mapocho CAMINO APOQUINDO Rio Mapocho CARRASCAL RIO Mapocho LAS CONDES COLON TOMAS MORO PUDAHUEL MAPOCHO BALMACEDA JOAQUIN PEREZ AV FCO \LBAO LA:REINA YANEZ QUINTA TTE CRUZ MATOCANA AV PRINCIPE DE GALES AV LAS TORRES TO RES NORMA CATEDRAL DE SAN PABLO MONTT LARRAIN 3 AS REJAS AV LIBERTADOR B G D'HIGGINS ENCALADA DIEZ AVMATTA DE JULIO AV IRARRAZAVAL GRECIA NUÑOA AV JOSE ARRIETA a Valparaíso AV 5DE ABRIL ELASQUEZ EXPOSICION SAN DIEGO 03 NUBLE LO HERMIDA 44 RAMON FREIRE CICARELLI RODRIGO DE ARAYA AGUIRRE CERDA CARLOS VALDOVINOS AV VICUÑA MACKENNA JOSE A ESSANDRI AV QUILIN MAIPU AV TOBALABA SAN MIGUEL AV AV DEPARTAMENTAL LA CISTERNA ! CARLOSWALKER M 2 STA ROSA STA ROSA LA FLORIDA LO ESPEJO. AV San Antonio AMERICO DIEGO PORTALES 4 GRANT JOSE LA GRANJA AV CONCHA TORO SAN JOSE PUENTE ALTO SAN BERNARDO EYZAGUIRRE Maipo Rio Rio Maipo 5 Panamericana Sur 62 Sedimento Marino Cordillera de la Costa FISONOMIA Océano Placa Marina E W DESCRIPCION El área que abarca esta zona com- de Santiago y Rancagua con una gran cantidad prende parte del Valle del Aconcagua, la Cuenca de sedimentos. de Santiago y la Cuenca de Rancagua hasta la an- gostura de Regolemu, en Pelequén. Además de las En esta nivelación del valle sobreviven sólo los pi- Cordilleras de los Andes y de la Costa. cachos más altos, llamados cerros islas; entre ellos, el de Chena, Tango, Sta. Lucía y San Cristó- Estado Original Mortológicamente, el Valle del Aconcagua corres- bal. La capa de sedimento se acumuló más grue- ponde al último de los valles transversales y está sa próximo a Los Andes y más baja hacia la costa. formado por sistemas fluviales que atraviesan el Esto explica el por qué La Pirámide del cerro San país CE montaña a mar y enmarcado por estribacio- Cristóbal posee distinta altura a uno y otro lado nes de cerros que, desprendidos de la cordillera, si- del valle; también este mismo espectáculo se ob- E W duen un rumbo generalmente de oriente a poniente. serva entre los valles de Pudahuel y Curacaví, al cruzar por el túnel Lo Prado. Más abajo se extiende el Valle Central O depre- sión intermedia, que corre hacia el sur enmarca- Hace más de 120.000 años se produjo la segunda do por las Cordilleras de Los Andes y de la Costa, glaciación, la cual volvió a triturar la roca madre y que en su trayecto va formando un sistema de de la cordillera y a arrastrar materiales ya trabaja- Elevación de los Andes cuencas. La primera es la Cuenca de Santiago, dos con anterioridad. Nuevos tapones morréni- que se encuentra separada del Valle de Aconca- COS se instalaron en el interior de los cajones an- gua por los cerros del cordón de Chacabuco se dinos, los que actualmente se pueden observar extiende hacia el sur hasta la angostura de Paine. en el río Mapocho en el sector de La Ermita y Co- rral Quemado, a pocos kms del Arrayan; también E Luego viene la Cuenca de Rancagua, que com- W prende la zona desde Paine hasta la angostura de en los Queltehues, en el Maipo, y aguas arriba del Regolemu, en Pelequén. Ambas poseen prolon- río Yeso, donde las morrenas detienen las aguas gaciones del valle hacia el poniente, por donde de la laguna Negra. En el valle del Aconcagua el corren los ríos, y terminan en los suaves lomajes sector de Portillo es una gran acumulación morré- de la liamada zona costina. nica, cuyos materiales retienen a la laguna del Inca. Hundimiento del Valle Central La Cordillera de Los Andes tiene en esta área 4 grandes cajones 0 fisuras, cada una surcada por De 5 a 10 mil años atrás y quizás contemporánea- los ríos Aconcagua, Mapocho, Maipo y Cacha- mente a los primeros habitantes del país se pro- poal, los que han tenido una función primordial en dujo una nueva y gran erupción de cenizas volcá- la formación del Valle Central. Y la cordillera de la nicas, las que cubrieron toda la cordillera y pre- Costa tiene aquí las mayores alturas de todo su cordillera andina. Fue tal la intensidad de dichas recorrido en los cerros de el Roble y de Cantilla- erupciones que las aguas lluvias y los ríos, trans- na, con más de 2.000 mts cayendo directamente portando estos sedimentos, los depositaron lejos sobre el Valle Central. de la Cordillera de Los Andes, a los pies de la Cordillera de la Costa y aún más allá, colmando la FORMACION DEL TERRITORIO Para que se lle- depresión y en algunos casos cortando el paso gara configurar el paisaje que hoy contempla- de los ríos en su trayecto al mar. Actualmente, mos, an sido necesarios varios cientos de millo- gruesos depósitos de cenizas se pueden ver en nes Ge años de interacción de procesos tectóni- Pudahuel y Cerrillos de Maipú, en Santiago, y en COS, glaciales y volcánicos, cuya obra permane- el valle interior del Cachapoal, en Rancagua. ce aún inconclusa. El tectonismo es una actividad Hoy los ríos continúan modelando la topografía, en la corteza terrestre producida por la presión y ya sea erosionando intensamente todos aquellos deslizamiento de la placa marina del fondo del depósitos de restos morrénicos acumulados en Océano Pacífico, bajo la placa del continente su- los cajones cordilleranos, removiendo los escom- damericano; a esto se debe que la isla de Pascua bros en las laderas andinas, depositando y ero- se esté acercando al continente a razón de 1 mt sionando sedimentos en el valle central a la vez aprox al año. La enorme presión generada por el que ahondan su curso en el valle y finalmente, sa- choque de estas dos grandes capas de corteza cando miles de toneladas de arena hacia el mar. terrestre produce los terremotos y erupciones vol- cánicas por todos conocidos, pero también y a PRIMITIVOS HABITANTES A la llegada de los una escala geológica, es la que ha modificado la españoles la población que habitaba esta zona 2 estru tura de la corteza produciendo repliegues era predominantemente mapuche, mezclada con y SC vantamientos, hasta generar las cordilleras tribus traídas desde la zona de Arequipa, Perú, actuales. por los Incas. Las actuales investigaciones consi- Hace 100 millones de años ya existía la Cordillera deran al pueblo Mapuche con una unidad étnica y de la Costa y también, en el lugar que ocupa la de lingüfstica que se extendía desde el río Choapa Los Andes, había una gran depresión cubierta por el norte hasta Chiloé por el sur. 1.400 kms de por el mar que se iba rellenando con los sedimen- longitud, y con marcados distingos de clima, flora tos marinos. Posteriormente, una gran actividad y fauna, por lo cual fue natural la aparición de pe- tectónica comenzó a solevantar la depresión ma- queñas diferencias en el idioma y en las costum- rina, creando la Cordillera de Los Andes, y duran- bres. Ellos se denominaban a sí mismos Picun- te el proceso elevó también la antigua Cordillera ches a los de esta zona, Mapuches a la población de la Costa. Millones de años después y ya en vís- entre ríos Bío Bío y Toltén, y Huilliches desde el peras de los períodos glaciales, un nuevo tecto- sur de este último río. nismo fracturó la unión entre ambas cordilleras, hurdiendo y configurando la depresión interme- A mediados del siglo 15 el imperio Inca se expan- dia Valle Central. de hacia Chile central hasta el río Maule y ejerce dominio militar, económico y cultural en esta As formadas las dos cordilleras y el valle, co- zona. Entre sus obras más destacables están el menzaron a actuar otros procesos de modelación camino del Inca, de 6 mts de ancho, que se ex- del territorio. Un primer período glacial cubrió tiende desde el Perú hasta el río Cachapoal y completamente la cordillera de hielos, los que además levantaron guarniciones militares en Pu- avanzaron hacia los valles, triturando y transpor- kará, cerro Chena y trasladaron tribus Mitimaes, lando las rocas, y formando verdaderos tapones desde Arequipa, para enseñar el idioma y las téc- en los cajones andinos, llamados morrenas. Pero nicas de cultivo. Finalmente, establecen Curacas en medio de estos acontecimientos, se produjo o sedes de gobierno local en cada valle, entre un gran volcanismo de efusión de cenizas, lo que ellos, Vitacura, Talagante, Copequén, etc. Tam- provocó el derretimiento dè los hielos y con ello, bién durante la dominación incásica se organizó el grandes avalanchas de una masa líquida-plásti- territorio agrícola con sistema de canales y ace- ca y caliente llamada corriente de barro. Estas quias, y se introdujo el ají y el maíz a los cultivos. arrasaron con todos los materiales acumulados A la llegada de los españoles la densidad de po- de tro de los cajones andinos, principalmente el blación nativa era baja en esta zona, muy inferior de Maipo y el Cachapoal, y rellenaron la cuenca a la existente al sur del rio Bío Bío. Así lo afirman 65 los primeros cronistas españoles, estimando la las riberas y el poco caudal de verano corre pro. población indígena en no más de 25.000 almas fundo y alejado de los bordes, no permitiendo un hacia 1543 y 15 años más tarde alcanzaba a me- gran desarrollo vegetal en sus orillas. nos de 9.000 nativos, diezmados por el trabajo en las minas O fugados a otros territorios. Todos los Cuatro fueron los factores determinantes en la de esta zona fueron sometidos a régimen de en- transformación del paisaje original durante la Co- comienda de indios, entregándolos, por grupos Ionia. Estos son la introducción y multiplicación tribales, a 32 capitanes conquistadores. El princi- del ganado europeo que pastoreaba semi-salvaje pal encomendero de la época, Rodrigo de Quiro- en el llano central; la necesidad de madera para ga y su esposa Inés de Suárez, alcanzaron a tener la construcción en la ciudad y las haciendas; et el año 1546, 1.500 nativos en 5 encomiendas, los uso como único combustible del carbón y la leña, obtenidos preferentemente de Espino de los lla. C que 33 años después habian disminuido a 800 y en 160 años más sólo quedaban 101 indios enco- nos y, finalmente, el proceso de irrigación artifi. cial de los valles que obligó al necesario desmon. P mendados. La población nativa estaba diseminada, sin cons- te de la vegetación original. c tituir pueblos ni aldeas, en asentamientos que re- cibían la denominación del lugar. Así próximo a PROPIEDAD DE LA TIERRA A la llegada de los C Santiago, existlan los lugares poblados de Vita- españoles, éstos fundan en 1542 su asiento en la cura -sede del Curaca-, Nuñoa, Tobalaba, Ma- ciudad de Santiago, constituyéndose en el único cul y Apoquindo. En los alrededores estaba Lam- centro urbano que existirla por casi 2 siglos en pa, Colina, Aculeo, Tango, Chada, Talagante, toda el área que comprende esta zona. La econo. Chiñigüe, Maltarauco, Melipilla, Puangue, Pomai- mía inicial se funda en una agricultura de susten- re y muchos otros. to yen la minería de oro. Para lo primero, se repar- ten chacras próximas a la ciudad distribuidas en La economía agraria era de sustento y para regar OC las mejores tierras regadas y trabajadas por nati- sus cultivos se asentaban próximo a los rios y es- vos, las que se ubican en Vitacura, Tobalaba, Ma- A teros. Las tierras de los llanos, hoy consideradas cul y Nuñoa, y también río abajo del Mapocho ha- gr las mejores, estaban entonces vírgenes y pobla- cia Talagante. Para las duras faenas mineras se de das, y sólo se incorporaron con el auge de la ga- instituye el sistema de encomienda de indios, que gr nadería en el siglo 18 y las grandes obras de re- consistía en la entrega a un capitán español de un pa gadio del siglo 19. grupo aborigen, quienes con su trabajo pagaban sa tributo a la Corona; estas encomiendas no involu- de El ganado de "llamas" (auquénidos) tampoco so- brepasaba las necesidades domésticas y estaba craban el derecho de propiedad sobre la tierra, su ya que ésta dependía de otra institución llamada la sometido a régimen de pastores y corrales. merced de tierra. Lc PAISAJE ORIGINAL Entre más de 1.000.000 de Desde un principio se repartió a los pobladores fic há planas que comprende la zona de esta guía, de Santiago, además del solar y la chacra, merce- pr es dable presumir que estaban cultivadas y rega- des de tierra en los valles poblados por aborige- CC das sólo el 2% de ellas, y modificadas por ramo- nes, en La Ligua, Aconcagua, Maipo y Cacha- de neo de animales y extracción de leña, no más del poal. Estas eran de límites imprecisos y no tuvie- de 15% restante. Así, más del 80% de las tierras pla- ron mayor demanda, pues la mayoría de los con- las nas y además de la totalidad de las "serranias" quistadores se desplazaron hacia las tierras de cé estaban en estado virgen, entregado a su natural Arauco, al Sur del rio Bío Bío. Sin embargo, hacia pro desarrollo. 1600 las ciudades del sur fueron definitivamente pa abandonadas debido a la gran revuelta mapuche CO El régimen de lluvias de la zona central, si bien y un gran contingente de población emigró hasta ne hace 4 siglos era más intenso en términos de el centro del país, demandando tierras para ga- cic agua caída, ésta se distribuía en forma parecida narse su sustento. Así fue como hacia 1650, toda do a hoy, en que 4 meses de lluvias continuas, 2 me- ses de lluvias ocasionales y 6 meses de sequía. la tierra en esta área estaba entregada en propie- La Este régimen de aguas genera una vegetación dad, tanto a colonos como nativos y a partir de en- das autóctona similar a la que hoy conocemos y que tonces, la propiedad de la tierra se obtuvo por he- cia se caracteriza por tener raíces profundas, muy rencia O compra. ce lento crecimiento y gran résistencia a las sequías. La dimensión original de las propiedades agríco- du, El llano o valle con tierras planas asoleadas y las fue diversa, dependiendo de su proximidad a per sin sombras, las cubría una vegetación raía de ár- Santiago, alcanzando a 300 há las más peque- má ñas, hasta 1.500 há planas en zonas de valles. que boles de pequeño desarrollo, entre ellos, los Espi- llos nos y Algarrobos, cuyo suelo, con pasto en invier- no y polvoriento en verano;- no estaba habitado PRODUCCION AGRARIA La población abori- gen cultivaba principalmente el maíz, la papa y la VIL por aborígenes. Los cronistas de la colonia lo describen como un "llano" donde "tenian los ban- quinoa -cereal aborigen-, y su ganado lo consti- exi: doleros SU más cercana madriguera e impuni- tuía la "llama". El conquistador español introduce era dad". Este paisaje era muy similar al que hoy se el -cereal de mayor rendimiento-) los árbo- ab: observa en los valles no regados del norte de Pol- les frutales europeos, que se adaptaron con facili- cer paico y Chacabuco, y a ambos lados del túnel Lo dad; también el ganado vacuno, caballar, lanar y mer porcino. En términos generales, el potencial del y lo Prado. agro hacia 1600 sobrepasaba con creces las ne- trac Quebradas y faldeo sur de los cerros esta es la cesidades internas de la escasa población de liza zona donde se concentraba la gran vegetación esa fecha. Por otro lado, el crecimiento poblacio- de arbórea de enorme desarrollo y que alcanzaba la nal de Lima en Perú yel desarrollo de la minería 18 s edad límite de las especies. Alli abundan el Peu- mo, Maitén, Boldo, Quillay. Litre y, en los cerros de plata en Potosí, géneraron una gran demanda dad de productos del agro, los que fueron abasteci- Así costinos además, el Avellano, Lingue, el soberbio Belloto y la bella Palmera chilena. Hoy este tipo dos desde Chile, fundamentalmente de trigo, en sebo para velas y jabón, cueros para vestuarios y en de vegetación y paisaje persiste en muchos ce- rros y quebradas, donde el bosque se ha regene- arneses, charqui y ganado equino. los so: rado, pero los grandes bosques y enormes árbo- Hacia 1700 una peste surgida en las sementeras Ch les que conocieron los primeros conquistadores, del trigo del Perú malogró las cosechas de dicha sólo se pueden ver en contados lugares, como en As nación durante décadas y con ello Chile se trans- los faldeos sur de la Cuesta del Melón y en los famo- forma en el principal abastecedor de granos, lie- dio SOS bosques de los cerros de Cantillana, en Aculeo. gando a exportar anualmente hasta 10.000 ton de de También en la quebrada de El Manzano, en el Cajón trigo desde la zona central. re, del Maipo. Mac Ribera de los grandes ríos, el paisaje de ellas LA HACIENDA El tipo de producción intensiva aser debe haber sido muy similar al que hoy conoce- de ganadería y trigo requirió de una unidad pro- sus mos, con una vegetación ribereña poco densa y ductiva de mayor dimensión. Así, el tamaño origi- donde predomina el Maitén y Sauce chileno. Esta nal de los fundos se incrementó por la compra de MAY probable similitud se explica, pues los grandes los minifundos y fundos contiguos. Las Ordenes una ríos Aconcagua, Mapocho, Maipo y Cachapoal Religiosas eran los mayores terratenientes del na e tienen un ancho cauce pedregoso, donde la vio- país, y la Orden Jesuita, la principal productora, des lencia de las aguas en época de deshielo socava hacia 1750 era propietaria, entre otras, de la ha- rian 66 re pro- ndo un cienda de Graneros con 14.000 há planas y fuesen usufructuadas por alguien de su descen- 120.000 de serranías, la de Bucalemu con 54.000 dencia, pero sin derecho a gravarla o enajenarla, ná. la de Calera de Tango con 3.000 há planas y para así traspasarla indivisa de una generación a ; en la la hacienda de Chacabuco de 29.000 há. otra. A estas propiedades se les llamó Vínculo, : la CO- El tamaño de las propiedades agrícolas y la im- por estar vinculadas a una voluntad testamenta- cación portancia económica de su labor produjo la cana- ria, y al usufructuario Mayorazgo, pues general- salvaje lización de la mayor parte de la población del mente era el hijo mayor de cada generación. El a para país hacia ellas. Así nacieron las haciendas, que objetivo de esta institución era preservar el poder :as; el vivieron una existencia y desarrollo semi aisla- económico de una familia o el de un título nobilia- a leña, das. Dentro de sus limites estaba todo lo que el rio adquirido a la Corona. OS lla- hombre rural de los siglos 17 y 18 necesitaba: artifi- En Chile hubo 20 mayorazgos; el primero fue fun- producción de alimento, hilado del vestuario, tra- smon- dado hacia 1703 y el último en 1789 por Mateo de bejo del cuero, fabricación de velas, herrería, bo- Toro y Zambrano, Conde de la Conquista. Más degas de vinos y secadores de charqui y frutas. tarde, los mayorazgos -que eran la base del po- De esta manera se formó la sociedad rural de Chi- de los der social y económico de los siglos 18 y 19- fue- le y la hacienda fue el lugar de refugio de la gran ) en la ron suprimidos por ley de don Bernardo O'Hig- único masa de población mestiza que deambulaba por gins al inicio de la República; sin embargo, sólo los campos, la que se asentó en categoría de OS en dejaron de existir realmente hacia fines del siglo "peón", adquiriendo distintos oficios. Además, :cono- pasado cuando se dividieron los vínculos. Lo pe- surge un tipo especial de trabajador agrario, el in- usten- culiar de esta situación es que, de los 20 mayo- quilino, que era un arrendatario instalado por el repar- razgos, 16 de ellos tenfan las haciendas ubicadas propietario de los linderos de la hacienda, con el :as en en esta zona, y los 4 restantes, estaban en la peri- objetivo de resguardar sus intereses. . nati- feria inmediata, es decir, en Pullally (Papudo), La a, Ma- A fines del siglo 17 y primera mitad del siglo 18, Ligua, Quillota y Cunaco. La zona central del país no ha- gracias a las exportaciones de trigo, la propiedad concentraba, por ende, todo el poder económico ras se de la tierra adquirió un valor preponderante. Los y social de la época. S, que grandes terratenientes, capitaneados porta Com- de un pañía de Jesús y varias familias de esta zona, pa- LOS CANALES DE RIEGO En el siglo pasado se gaban saron a constituir el núcleo social más importante produce un fuerte cambio en el aspecto físico del nvolu- del país, siendo verdaderos señores feudales en agro de la zona central. Este es motivado por la tierra, sus latifundios y dando origen a los mayorazgos y aparición de un nuevo y gran mercado para el tri- mada la obtención de títulos nobiliarios de Castilla. go chileno en California y más tarde en Australia. Los edificios de la hacienda eran extensos, lo su- Como consecuencia, los grandes capitales acu- dores ficiente como para albergar jerárquicamente a los mulados en la minería del cobre, la plata y luego erce- propietarios, trabajadores, industrias, bodegas y el salitre, se vuelcan hacia la agricultura, y me- brige- corralones. Actualmente no existen testimonios diante modernas tecnologías inspiradas en las acha- del siglo 17, pero sí se conservan varios edificios obras ferroviarias de la época se abren los gran- :uvie- de principios del siglo 18; un buen ejempto son des canales que, sacando aguas de los ríos las Casas de Calera de Tango, con una disposición con- Aconcagua, Mapocho, Maipo y Cachapoal, irri- : con- céntrica, cercada enteramente por murallones de gan las tierras planas de esta zona y además se as de protección y organizada interiormente en base a construyen los tranques necesarios para la regu- nacia lación de las aguas. nente atios y precedida por una capilla. Estas casas, uche onstruidas por los jesuitas, son testimonio de la Este proceso comienza en 1828, con la apertura hasta necesidad de organizar el espacio rural en fun- del canal San Carlos que saca aguas del Maipo, y 3 ga- ción del trabajo y en un ámbito protegido del ban- continúa afanosamente durante todo el siglo en toda dolerismo de la época. que se construyeron más de 30 grandes canales opie- La característica arquitectónica de estas hacien- con una colosal inversión y despliegue tecnológi- e en- das cambia a partir de mediados del siglo 18 ha- CO. Los últimos grandes canales como el de Cha- or he- cabuco, de Las Mercedes en el valle de Curacaví cia una organización lineal de los edificios, pre- cedidos por la casa patronal y la capilla, indivi- y el de Peumo a Las Cabras, se concluyen recién hacia 1930. rico- dualizados volumétricamente de las restantes de- ad a pendencias. Esta nueva distribución adquiere su En el lapso de un siglo se irrigó todo el llano de las que- máxima expresión en las casas patronales y par- cuencas de Acohcagua, Santiago, Rancagua y ques del siglo 19, de los cuales hay muchos y be- Cachapoal, y una compleja red de canalizacio- llos testimonios descritos en esta guía. nes cambió radicalmente la productividad del bori- agro y modeló una nueva fisonomia en el paisaje. 2 y la ILLAS Y CIUDADES Hasta inicios del 1700, no Así, em 1851 se inicia la plantación de viñedos in- nsti- existian más que 7 ciudades en Chile y Santiago dustriales, fundándose la industria vitivinícola; :uce era el único centro poblado de toda la zona que aparecen los grandes cultivos de riego, las leche- rbo- abarca esta guía. La comunidad se había con- rías, la industria láctea, y hacia 1900, la plantación acili- centrado en las haciendas, dificultando enorme- masiva de frutales, y el inicio de las exportaciones ar y mente el adoctrinamiento religioso, la educación, frutícolas en 1920. del y lo que es más importante, la incorporación a la ne- tradición hispana de la creciente población mes- EL NUEVO PAISAJE Los viñedos, frutales, hor- de tiza. Por esta razón y por instrucciones expresas talizas y sementeras que cubren hoy los campos cio- de la Corona, los gobernantes de Chile del siglo de esta zona, forman el nuevo paisaje surgido de eria 18 se abocaron a urbanizar el país, fundando ciu- la irrigación artificial. Junto a esto aparecen los nda dades y villas tanto para españoles como nativos. potreros cuadriculados por largas filas de árboles nci- Así nacen en esta zona San Fellpe en 1740, Melipilla plantados junto a las acequias y además, unos al- go, en 1742, Rancagua en 1743, Alhué en 1755, Los Andes tos y apretados grupos arbóreos rodeados de OS y en 1791, y también Peumo y San José de Malpo. Todos muros, que definen los parques y las casas patro- OS otros pueblos y ciudades que hoy conocemos nales. El árbol, elemento tan importante del paisa- son fundados después de la independencia de ras je de la zona central, no es un fenómeno natural Chile. tha sino una manifestación cultural que define el gus- ns- A su vez, para los nativos se fundan "pueblos de in- to de una época. Son todos de origen foráneo - le- dios" con mercedes de tierras circundantes, don- álamos, sauce babilónico, eucaliptus, pino insig- de de se les obligó a concentrarse. Estos son Pomai- ne, ciprés macrocarpa, etc.-, la mayoría introdu- re, Chiñihue, Talagante, Lampa, Tiltil, Carrizal, cida recién en la segunda mitad del siglo pasado Macul, Machali y muchos otros. En general, estos (el eucaliptus en 1870). vava asentamientos tuvieron una corta historia, pues En esta introducción del gusto por el árbol tuvo ro- sus tierras fueron adquiridas por los latifundistas. una gran importancia la creación, en 1846, del Jar- 'gi- din de Aclimatación en Santiago (Quinta Normal), don- de MAYORAZGOS Y VINCULOS El mayorazgo fue de se reprodujeron las principales especies fo- nes una institución jurídica reglamentada por la Coro- restales y ornamentales extranjeras. También es cel na española y que permitía a personas de gran- significativa la fundación de grandes criaderos ra, des recursos económicos, destinar testamenta- de plantas como El Diamante en Buin y Santa Inés en a- riamente algunas de sus propiedades para que Nos, éste último fundado en 1888 y que llegó a te- 67 ner más de 4.000 especies y variedades a la ven- DESARROLLO ACTUAL Esta Zona posee exce. ta. El diseñador de los principales parques rura- lentes condiciones para la habitabilidad humana, les fue el paisajista francés Guillermo Renner, aportadas tanto para un clima templado, con !!u- quien trabajó en Chile durante 20 años a partir de vias de invierno moderadas y gran luminosidad, 1870. Este gusto por los árboles tan en boga en la como por sus buenos suelos aluvionales, hoy irri- segunda mitad del siglo pasado, no sólo invadió gados. Por ello, aquí, a lo largo de 4 siglos, Se el campo y los parques patronales, sino que des- asentó la mayor parte de la población del país y bordó en las áreas urbanas, plantándose la "ala- se gestó y desarrolló la tradición rural chilena. meda" en Santiago hacia 1845 y cubriéndose de Hoy día, con cerca de 6,000.000 de habitantes árboles y jardines a partir de 1870 todas las secas concentra el 53% de la población del país. y terrozas plazas de Armas de Chile. SECTOR CIUDAD DE SANTIAGO CONTENIDO SANTIAGO PARA LOS NIÑOS La descripción de la ciudad de Santiago sólo es Principales lugares equipados posible abandonando múltiples temas de dificil con entretenimientos aproplados conexión entre ellos. Se ha adoptado el criterio de para grandes y chicos. capítulos independientes, cada uno con un espe- cífico contenido. Estos son: SERVICIOS Y PRECIOS PRESENTACION Hospedajes El Entorno Tours de Santlago El Clima Arriendo Automóviles El Gran Santlago Arrlendo Bicicletas La Población Canchas de Tenis Desarrollo Económico Crecimiento Acelerado Actual Desarrollo PRESENTACION EL ENTORNO La ciudad de Santiago está em- HISTORIA URBANA plazada en la planicie del valle y próxima a los fal- La Fundación de Santlago deos de la Cordillera de los Andes. (33°30' latitud La Colonia sur, 70°35' longitud oeste). Es la cabecera del Ideales de la Ilustración Gran Valle Central de Chile que se extiende, port La Independencia casi 1.000 kms, desde Santiago hasta Puerto Consolidación Territorial Montt. Celebración y Ornato Toda la ciudad posee un suave declive de Este a Lenta Expansión Oeste. La Plaza de Armas -el centro de origen de La Cludad Capital la ciudad- está a 543 mts sobre el nivel del mar; Desarrollo Vial Maipú, al poniente, a 474 metros, y El Arrayán, al oriente, a 1.800 mts. Esta realidad topográfica ha: originado los términos de "barrios altos y barrios INFORMACION DE UTILIDAD bajos", según se ubiquen al oriente 0 poniente de la Plaza de Armas. Mayor Información, La Cordillera de los Andes, además de rodear la Cómo llegar a Santiago ciudad, avanza en formande espolón hasta su mis- Horarios Urbanos mo Centro, A pocas cuadras de la Plaza de Armas Centros de Administración Pública se alza el Cerro San Cristóbal de 880 mts sobre el Centros Financieros nivel del mar y también existen pequeños cerros 2 Centros de Camblos y Turismo aislados como el Manquehue, Navia, Blanco, San Centros de Comercio Luis y el cerro Santa Lucia en pleno Centro urba- Centros de Artesanía no. Centros de Repuestos Autos La ciudad es cruzada por el río Mapocho, prove- Centros Venta Automóviles niente de la Cordillera, con-caudal torrentoso en Centros de Arte y Exposiciones los meses de lluvias y deshielos, y casi seco en Centros de Música, Opera y Ballet los meses de verano. Originalmente corría por SU Teatros actual cauce y además por su brazo de descarga Centros de Gastronomía que circulaba por la actual Av Libertador Bernar- Centros de Esparcimiento de Verano do O'Higgins. Este brazo fue rellenado a fines del Centros de Eventos Deportivos siglo XVIII, dando origen a la principal arteria de la ciudad. Santiago es hoy un nudo de convergencia de las CALENDARIO DE EVENTOS principales circulaciones del país. La Carretera Descripción mes a mes de las prin Longitudinal de Chile atraviesa la ciudad y a partir de ella recibe el nombre de Panamericana Norte y cipales actividades periódicas. Panamericana Sur. Desde la costa llegan 2 auto- pistas que vienen de los puertos oceánicos y los balnearios de San Antonio (109 kms) y Valparaiso RECORRIDOS URBANOS (119 kms). Por el lado de la Cordillera entran a la 1 Entorno de la Plaza de Armas ciudad 3 vías: la Carretera Internacional desde 2 Centro de Santiago Argentina por Portillo y las provenientes de Fare- 3 Centro Institucional llones y Cajón del Maipo, ambos centros inverna- 4 Parque Forestal les. 5 Barrio Bellavista Santiago es además Estación Terminal del ferro- 6 Por el Eje Central carril central a la costa y del ferrocarril al sur. Su 7 Santlago desde la Altura Aeropuerto Internacional -Comodoro Arturo Meri- 8 Nuevos Barrlos no Benitez- es el principal del país. EL CLIMA El valle de Santiago posee clima Medi- PASEOS POR LA NATURALEZA terráneo de altura, que se caracteriza por ser tem- plado, con regulares variaciones de temperatura Ocho lugares en la periferia para entre invierno y verano. El régimen de lluvias se un bonito paseo de fin de semana. concentra en los meses de otoño e invierno (mar- 68 ZC septiembre), con un promedio anual de 384 go el centro administrativo, político, industrial, mr e agua caída. comercial y cultural del país, se ha convertido en El "ano es seco (diciembre a marzo), con tem- el núcleo de los intereses económicos naciona- peraturas que a veces sobrepasan los 30°C. La les, generando casi el 40% del Producto Geográ- temperatura media anual es de 14°C, con una me- fico Bruto Nacional. dia de invierno de 9°C y una media de verano de Los tres sectores económicos que más influyen 22,7°C. en la generación de este Producto Geográfico Santiago presenta algunas singularidades climá- Bruto son, en orden de importancia, el comercio, ticas: en invierno los temporales son breves e in- la industria y los servicios financieros. tensos,y pronto sale el sol; la Cordillera aparece Sector Comercio la alta concentración poblacio- majestuosa y enteramente cubierta de nieve, al- nal en torno a Santiago hace de esta área el ma- canzando en ocasiones hasta los "barrios altos". yor centro consumidor. En Santiago están locali- En verano el día es caluroso y seco para refrescar zadas las casas matrices de las principales em- al anochecer, favoreciendo las actividades al aire presas nacionales. libre. En otoño y primavera hay ausencia de vien- Sector Industrial a partir de 1939 comenzó un no- 105 en el valle, lo que permite la estratificación de torio desarrollo industrial en el país, localizándo- IC gases de la ciudad, acumulando el temido se la mayoría de ellas en el núcleo central y espe- "S" "g" sobre Santiago. cialmente en Santiago y sus alrededores. El 54% de las industrias del país están ubicadas en la Re- EL GRAN SANTIAGO La ciudad original, funda- gión Metropolitana, especialmente en las comu- da en 1541, poseía una traza de 35 manzanas en nas de Santiago, Nuñoa, San Miguel, Quinta Nor- torno a la Plaza de Armas y enmarcada por los mal, Maipúy Puente Alto; entre ellas, las principa- dos brazos originales del río Mapocho. Hoy la su- les plantas manufactureras, textiles, de maquina- perficie urbana de Santiago Metropolitano alcan- ria y equipos, productos alimenticios y empresas za aproximadamente a 35 kms de norte a sur y 40 editoriales. kms de este a oeste. Sector Servicios Financieros en la ciudad está Junto a la ciudad fundada por los españoles exis- también la mayor concentración financiera del tian núcleos agrícolas próximos, que eran asen- país, operan 24 bancos nacionales, 22 bancos tamientos de población aborigen: Nuñoa, Maipú, extranjeros y empresas financieras, además de Conchali, Pudahuel, Renca y Quilicura. Más tar- una Bolsa de Comercio. de. aparecen otros núcleos periféricos, algunos de origen agrícola como Peñalolén, La Florida, Puente Alto, La Granja. Otros eran "Quintas de Agrado" como La Reina y San Bernardo. HISTORIA URBANA Todos estos núcleos fueron expandiéndose inde- pendientemente, hasta que finalmente se han to- LA FUNDACION La expedición del adelantado pado unos con otros para formar un tejido urbano Pedro de Valdivia llega al valle del Mapocho en continuo: es la gigantesca urbe llamada hoy el 1540 y acampa junto al cerro Huelén en el día de Gran Santiago. Santa Lucía. dándole ese nombre al cerro. La capital está dividida administrativamente en El 12 de febrero de 1541, Pedro de Valdivia en so- 24 comunas autónomas, que son: Santiago, Nu- lemne ceremonia da a la ciudad el nombre de ñoa, Macul, Maipú, Conchali, Pudahuel, Renca, Santiago del Nuevo Extremo, en homenaje al Quilicura, Providencia, Las Condes, La Pintana, Apóstol Santiago y a su tierra natal, Nueva Extre- San Ramón, San Miguel, La Cisterna, Estación madura, y traza la planta de la ciudad en solares. Central, Quinta Normal, Lo Prado, Cerro Navia, La El 11 de marzo, Valdivia nombra los integrantes Rena, San Bernardo, Peñalolén, La Florida, Puen- del Cabildo, el que a su vez lo nombra Goberna- : Itoy La Granja. dor de Chile. L. conformación urbana del Gran Santiago es va- Seis meses más tarde, la ciudad es arrasada por nada: al oriente están los "barrios altos" como las huestes del Cacique Michimalongo, pero in- Providencia, Vitacura, Las Condes, Lo Curro. La mediatamente reconstruida sobre el mismo traza- Dehesa y La Reina. Hacia el sur, oeste y norte do, el que subsiste hasta hoy. En torno a la Plaza aparecen complejos industriales entremezciados de Armas como centro, se trazaron las actuales con modernas poblaciones. En el Centro está la calles entre la Alameda y el rio Mapocho y las ca- sede de gobierno y los principales organismos lles norte-sur entre el cerro Santa Lucía y la actual administrativos, bancarios y comerciales de la calle Brasil, repartiéndose 4 solares por cuadra. nación. A nueve años de su fundación, el interés de los El crecimiento del Gran Santiago en los últimos conquistadores se volcó hacia el sur del país, años ha sido vertiginoso en sentido horizontal, en donde muchos emigraron y fundaron 8 ciudades. 2 desmedro de las antiguas tierras de cultivo que Santiago perdió su primacía y los gobernadores redean la ciudad. Sólo en el Centro y sus princi- dejaron de ocuparla como residencia perma- pries arterias se ha desarrollado un crecimiento nente. U ano en altura. LA COLONIA Con la gran sublevación Mapuche LA POBLACION La actual población del Gran de 1599, se abandonaron las 7 ciudades al sur Santiago es de 3.899.619 habitantes, según el del Bio-Bio y gran parte de la población emigra a Censo de 1982. El dinamismo de este fenómeno aciudad, la que crece y se consolida como capi- de crecimiento se manifiesta en las siguientes ci- tal. fras: 383.587 habitantes en 1907, 549.292 habi- Hacia 1647 existian en Santiago no menos de 12 tantes en 1920. En 1940 son 1.010.102 habitantes iglesias, que ocupaban con sus muros casi un ter- para pasar en 1950 a 1,425.612 habitantes y en cio del circuito urbano. Las grandes Re- 1960 alcanza a 2.009.118 habitantes. ligiosas, como la de Santo Domingo, Agustinos, Este extraordinario crecimiento de la población Mercedarios, Jesuitas y Franciscanos, tenlan SUS se comprende en toda su magnitud, comparando iglesias en los mismos lugares que están hoy. la relación porcentual de la población de la ciu- Los terremotos fueron los grandes remodelado- cad, con la del paísien su conjunto. En 1920 la ca- res urbanos; el del 13 de mayo de 1647 derrumbó C al tenia- el 16% de la población total del país. la ciudad entera, salvo la Iglesia de San Francisco E 1960 este porcentaje subió a un 28% y en 1982 (1618), que subsiste hasta hoy. Ochenta y tres 5 intiago alcanza a un 32,4% de la población total años más tarde, en 1730, otro terremoto arrasa Ce Chile. Este fenómeno de crecimiento poblacio- Santiago y nuevamente los santiaguinos inician la nal se debe al natural crecimiento demográfico, penosa reconstrucción de la arruinada ciudad, aumentado por una fuerte emigración desde esta vez con nuevas técnicas y estilo. De esta últi- áreas rurales. ma época sobreviven tres ejemplos, que son: Las comunas del Gran Santiago con mayor pobla- casa de Manso de Velasco (1730) Posada del Co- ción son: Santiago con 619.105 habitantes, Nu- rregidor (1750) y casa de Mateo de Toro y Zam- toa con 421.870 habitantes, La Cisterna con brano (1769), actual Museo de Santiago, llamada 360.096 habitantes y San Miguel con 350.030 ha- Casa Colorada por el clásico color colonial. pitantes. LOS IDEALES DE LA ILUSTRACION Los últi- DESARROLLO ACTUAL Por ser el Gran Santia- mos cuarenta años de la Colonia fueron ilumina- 69 A B C D CENTRO DE SANTIAGO 30 COMERAL S 20 57 STO DOMINGO 1 MATU 41 62 PUENTE 10 BARRA U 7 38 44 CATEDRAL MONJITAS R 37 FORM D 26 19 52 COMPANIA MERCED 36 40 26 39 23 33 32 HUERFANOS 51 2 27 N 28 2 5 11 o 12 45 18 AGUSTINAS B 15 56 29 6 24 48 34 Co STA LUCIA 3 13 MORANDE 49 BANDERA ESTADO, C MAC IVER 54 PASEO M TEATINOS E 58 14 50 Phileas Viajes Ltda. 3 Estacion Lucía AVDA LIBERTADOR B O'HIGGINS Estación de Chils 35 STA ROSA TURISMO NACIONAL E INTERNACIONAL Estación DEPARTAMENTO RECEPTIVO Moneda AV. UB. B. O'HIGGINS 142 L: 183 333653 398660 381562 Anexo: 4229 HOTELES N Panamericano F 723060 (A2) 3 Tabac F 724566 (83 A TELEX: 340436 PBVTR CK FOR PHILFOGG Crowne Plaza F 381042 (F2) o Ritz F 393401 (82) 4 Silvestre F 711117 (B2 SANTIAGO-CHILE B Carrera F 6982011 (A2) P Monte Carlo F 392945 (D2) 5 Mermoz F 6961566 (B2' C Galerias F 384011 (C3) Q Riviera F 331176 (C2) 6 EI Carrillón F 392213 (C21 D Tupahue F 383810 (C1) R Miami F 713112 (A1) 7 La hermita F 696645C (B1. E EI Conquistador F 6965599 (B3) S Cervantes F 6965318 (B1) COMIDA FRANCESA F Don Tito F 391987 (D2) T Sao Paulo F 398031 (C2) 8 Maistral F 330870 (Dil "FLOTA YANGUAS" G Foresta F 396262 (D2) U JY España F 6966066 (A1) 9 Jockey Club F 727036 (A2) H Apart Carlton House F 383130 (D2) RESTAURANTES J Santa Lucia COMIDA ITALIANA BUSES DE TURISMO F 398201 (C2) COMIDA INTERNACIONAL 10 K Da Carla City F 333739 (C1) F 724526 (B2) B Hotel Carrera F 6982011 (A2) 11 L Le Due Torre VIAJES NACIONALES E Gran Palace F 333799 (C21 F 712551 (B2) 1 Borsalino F 726894 (B3) 12 M Libertador San Marco INTERNACIONALES F 336880 (C2) F 394211 (C3) 2 EI 27 F 6991555 (83) EXEQUIEL FERNANDEZ 1866 Tel.: 740171 SANTIAGO dos por el ideal de la Ilustración, simbolizado en y fue el primer paso hacia la Independencia. Años los gobiernos de Agustín de Jáuregui, Ambrosio después. el 12 de febrero de 1818, fue jurada de- O'Higgins y Luis Muñoz de Guzmán. En la Capita- finitivamente la Independencia de Chile. 2 nía General se fundaron nuevas ciudades, cons- Los años de lucha y consolidación no fueron pro- DRIVE'IN truyeron nuevos edificios y abrieron caminos y picios para grandes reformas urbanas; sin em- canales de regadio. bargo, don Bernardo O'Higgins, utilizando mano DISCOTHEQUE En Santiago se elevaron edificios y obras civiles de obra de prisioneros realistas, crea la Alameda de de una suntuosidad y solidez desconocidas has- Las Delicias sobre el antiguo cauce del rio y enton- ta entonces. Se emprende la titánica tarea de ces basural, plantando 4 filas de álamos y dise- contener las salidas del río Mapocho con tajama- ñando las platabandas (1820), donde se realiza- res y un sólido puente de albañileria de 8 arcos, ría por más de un siglo el tradicional paseo de la llamado de Cal y Canto, ubicado frente a la calle ciudad. Funda además el Cementerio General, Puente: su trabajo se inicia, en 1767, utilizando abriendo con esto la ciudad hacia el norte. como mano de obra a reos de la cárcel y demo- rando 13 años su construcción. Es la obra colo- LA CONSOLIDACION TERRITORIAL Luego del nial más grandiosa con que contó Santiago. período de organización política de la República. En 1780 llegó a la capital don Joaquín Toesca, el la principal preocupación del Estado fue la con- más ilustre arquitecto que trabajó en América His- solidación del territorio nacional. Esta se inicia en pánica durante fines del siglo XVIII, enviado por 1842 con la ocupación del Estrecho de Magalia- Jáuregui, entonces Virrey del Perú, a construir la nes, continúa en 1852 con la colonización alema- Casa de Moneda. Las más importantes obras de na de Llanquihue y culmina hacia 1880 con la AV.VICUNA MACKENNA 10900 Toesca y sus discípulos, que hermosearon la ciu- conflagración del Pacífico (1879) y la coloniza- dad con una arquitectura cuita, de sobrio y senci- ción y ocupación del territorio de la Araucania TELEFONO 2813582 STGO llo estilo neoclásico, fueron: el Palacio de La Moneda (1882). el mayor edificio neoclásico de la América Colo- Santiago, ciudad capital del país, plasma física- nial- inaugurado en 1805, las fachadas y torres mente este objetivo nacional. En 1872, durante el de la Iglesia Catedral (1785), la Iglesla de La Merced gobierno de don Federico Errázuriz, es nombrado (1795), la Iglesla de Santo Domingo (1808) y el edificio Intendente de Santiago don Benjamin Vicuña Ropa de Algodón de la Real Audiencia (1808), que es el actual Museo Mackenna, quien acomete la primera remodela- PRODUCTOS y Sintética para Histórico Nacional. En este contexto urbano se ción urbana de la ciudad: transforma el cerro Santa VICTORIA Cabalieros gesta la idea de la Independencia Nacional. Lucia en el paseo público y crea el primer servicio de tranvias urbanos de tracción animal. Delimita Slips Camisetas LA INDEPENDENCIA El 18 de Septiembre de el sector urbano por SUS cuatro costados, abrien- Poleras Pijamas 1810 una Junta Nacional de Gobierno, cuyo pri- do las actuales avenidas Vicuña Mackenna por el orien- mer presidente fue don Mateo de Toro y Zambra- AV. LIB. B. O'HIGGINS 1730 P. 2° STGO. te. Matta por el sur, Exposición y Chacabuco por el po- no, asumió el poder en nombre de la Corona de niente y Bellavista por el norte. También inaugura TEL.: 6960804 España. Este hecho aconteció en el edificio de la en la Alameda (actual Av. Libertador Bernardo Real Audiencia, en la Plaza de Armas de Santiago O'Higgins) las estatuas de O'Higgins, Freire, Por- 70 E F MUSEOS 35 Arte Colonial (C3) 36 Arte Precolombino (B2) PIO NONO 37 Arte Sagrado (B1) 38 Historico Nacional (B1) STAMARIA 39 De Santiago (C2) 40 De la Merced (C2) Perque Forestal 41 Nac. de Bellas Artes (D1) JOSE MARIA Mapacho CARO GALERIAS DE ARTE 42 De la Plaza (E2) 43 Arte Actual (E2) VALDES VERGARA Plaza Italia 44 Lawrence Esucomex (C1) 0 45 Enrico Bucci F 395103 (D2) 60 elcomoai 46 Praxis F 392028 (D1) VIAJES & TURISMO Estacion SALAS DE EXPOSICION AGENCIA CLASE "A" O'HIGGINS Baquedano 47 Biblioteca Nacional F 330990 (C3) 48 LIBERTADOR B Teatro Municipal F 331407 (C2) LE OFRECE PLANIFICAR IATA / TEATROS JUNTO A UD. Y FAMILIA SUS AVDA Estación 49 Antonio Varas F 6961200 (B3) VACACIONES PARA UN AUTENTICO U Católica 50 Camilo Henríquez (A3) DESCANSO Y ¡COMO NO! UNA 51 El Angel F 333605 (C2) GRAN DIVERSION ACHET 52 La Comedia F 391523 (D1) 53 Moneda F 715451 (B3) SANTIAGO QUILLOTA 54 Sala América (C3) Mac Iver 283 2° Piso Av. Lib. B. O'Higgins 271 Loc. 8 Tels: 331374-396120 Tel: 310865 INSTITUTOS 55 Chileno Frances (E2) COIHAIQUE 56 Chileno Norteamericano (A2) 21 de Mayo 417 57 Chileno Alemán (C1) Tel: 21271 58 Cultural B del Estado (B3) COMIDA ESPAÑOLA 22 Steak House F 380079 (C2) COMIDA VEGETARIANA 13 Pinpilin Pausha F 6961835 (B3) 23 El Novillo Gordo F 727103 (C2) 32 EI Vegetariano F 394082 (C2) 14 Unión F 6961821 (83) 24 EI Novillero F 6991544 (B2) COMIDA RAPIDA COMIDA CHINA 25 El Cordoves F 331021 (D1) 33 Bar Nacional F 6964879 (B2) 15 Hong Mian (C2) 26 Chez Henry F 6966612 (B2) OSTRAS 16 Pakin F 330435 (C2) 27 El Rincon de los Teatinos (A2) 34 El Abuelo (C2) 17 ing Chau F 332451 (C2) 28 Ciro's F 6966171 (B2) 18 g Fung RECITALES F 391542 (C2) 29 Hereford Grill F 395612 (C2) 19 9 Hwa 59 Antilen F 395193 (C2) F 335196 (D3) 30 Mariu's F 392653 (C1) 20 Kham Thu 60 Casona de S Isidro F 334056 (C2) F 399511 (C1) 31 EI Villorio F 335605 (C1) 61 Cafe del Mapocho F 336253 (D2) CARNES 62 La Casa del Cantor (A1) 21 Steak House F 721196 (B2) tales y Carrera y termina la remodelación del Tea- LA LENTA EXPANSION Pronto fueron sobrepa- tro Municipal. sados los limites urbanos diseñados por Vicuña El Estado designa "Arquitecto Oficial" al francés Mackenna. A fines del siglo XIX, tres conventos Lucien Henault, quien construye el edificio del de Religiosas se instalari en la continuación de la Congreso Nacional y el Museo de Historia Natural, ambos en Alameda hacia la Cordillera. bautizando el sector 1875. Los particulares también constribuyen a y la actual calle Providencia. TALLER ARTISTICO 2 es: esfuerzo: Don Luis Cousiño regala a la ciu- En 1895 se abre la primera calle perpendicular a dr. el actual Parque O'Higgins de 85 hectáreas e Providencia, la Av. Pedro de Valdivia y en 1903 se ARTESANAL insugura su residencia, el Palacio Cousiño, en 1877. abre y urbaniza la Av. Los Leones. formando el Muchos otros grandes empresarios de la minería primer "Barrio Alto". Esto genera un inexorable Joyas. Piedras Semipreciosas y agricultura edifican sus residencias en Santia- movimiento poblacional hacia arriba y antes de go, de las cuales sobreviven La Alhambra (1862) y Lapislázuli-Malaquita 1930 estaba urbanizado e! rectángulo compren- Palacio Errázuriz, actual Embajada de Brasil (1872). dido entre Av. Vicuña Mackenna y Los Leones y Piezas para Arquitectura y delimitado por las avenidas Providencia e Irarrá- Decoración-Exportaciones LA CELEBRACION Y EL ORNATO La riqueza zaval. Todo hecho a mano derivada del salitre y del advenimiento del nuevo A su vez, se desarrolla un gran impulso en el sec- Lapidación propia siglo, predisponen al país a prepararse para la tor norte -Barrio Bellavista- y en especial en el celebración del primer Centenario de la Indepen- Cerro San Cristóbal, donde se inicia la foresta- LOS MISIONEROS 1991 dencia Nacional. ción (1917), se habilita el funicular (1925) e inaugu- (por P. de Valdivia Norte) Santiago inicia el siglo con una población cerca- ra el Jardin Zoológico (1927). na los 300.000 habitantes. Se inaugura la cana- 2326853-2322520 112 on del río Mapocho, sus puentes metálicos y CONSOLIDACION DE LA CIUDAD CAPITAL En e rque Forestal, construido en terrenos ganados al la década del 30 se ejecutan en Santiago grandes AEROPUERTO A. M. BENITEZ I También aparecen el diario El Mercurio de obras de arquitectura y urbanismo, destinadas a SANTIACO Santiago los tranvías eléctricos. Santiago se en- consolidar la función cívica de la ciudad. La más galana con grandes edificios residenciales, de trascendental es la creación del Barrio Cívico (1936) los cuales aún perduran la Casa Subercaseaux (1903), en torno a La Moneda, formado por la Plaza de la Casa Ochagavia (1905) y Casa Irarrázaval (1906). En vís- Constitución, Plaza Bulnes y Avenida Bulnes. peras del Centenario se inaugura la imagen de la En todo su perimetro se levantan edificios diseña- DE TURISMO Virgen del Cerro San Cristobal (1908). dos como un conjunto armónico y destinados a al- La llegada del 18 de septiembre de 1910 fue cele- bergar los principales organismos del Estado. brada con la inauguración del Museo de Bellas Artes Otra obra significativa es la inauguración del Esta- FESTIVAL TOURS en el Parque Forestal, el pórtico escalinata monumental dlo Nacional (1938), que abre la expansión urbana del Cerro Santa Lucía, el hermoseamiento del Co- hacia el sur oriente. PROGRAME SUS VACACIONES freo Central varias plazas, monumentosy fuentes TOURS NACIONALES E INTERNACIONALES de ornato donados por las colonias extranjeras EL CRECIMIENTO ACELERADO En las déca- AV. LIB. BDO. O'HIGGINS 949 OF. 603 SANTIAGO re Jentes. das del 50 y 60, con una población que alcanza a 6964924 - TLX 340986 FESTUR CK los 2.000.000 de habitantes, la gran preocupa- 71 ción es satisfacer la urgente necesidad de vivien- das, comercio y oficinas. Para fomentar su desa- de los vuelos nacionales llegan al aeropuertc Co. rrollo, se promulgan leyes que facilitan la edifica- modoro Arturo Merino Benitez, información fono 719612 ción en vertical (Ley de Venta de Pisos) y que bo- distante 20 kms de Santiago. Se conecta con la nifican la edificación (Ley Pereira y DFL2). capital a través de la ruta 68, y se ingresa por la Santiago se expande en todas direcciones con Av Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins. Existe un ex. celente servicio de movilización pública com. nuevas poblaciones de viviendas de 1 ó 2 pisos, puesta de: El Centro se reedifica en altura en su totalidad y durante una década, la ciudad parece bombar- Taxis fono 719122. Para un máximo de 4 perso- deada por la cantidad de demoliciones y nuevas nas, el pasaje le costará desde el aeropuerto has- edificaciones. ta el centro de la ciudad aproximadamente 1.500. Este proceso acaecido fue tan radical, que hoy sobreviven en el Centro de Santiago no más de Buses con frecuencia de 15 minutos Buses Flota Lacs, con terminal en estación de metro "Los Hè. una veintena de edificios con más de 50 años de roes", información fono 719252. Buses Tour Ex. antigüedad. Un caso tal vez único en el mundo press, con terminal en calle Moneda 1523, infor- ilustra este fenómeno: en el punto más importante mación fono 717380. de la ciudad, en calle Ahumada con Pza. de Ar- Arriendo de Automóviles este servicio lo ofrècen en et mas, esquina sur-poniente, un mismo arquitecto mismo aeropuerto las empresas AVIS, fono -Jorge Arteaga- proyectó y edificó dos veces en 719050; HERTZ, fono 719262; BUDGET, fono el mismo lugar: primero un edificio de 6 pisos y 719421. luego ei actual de 14 pisos. En Autobús éstos llegan a diferentes rodoviarios DESARROLLO ACTUAL El desarrollo urbano al- según su lugar de proveniencia: canzado por Santiago en la última década puede Terminal Norte ubicado en calle Amunátegui 920. sintetizarse en lo siguiente: un nuevo comercio Servicios nacionales provenientes del norte del horizontal en torno a la periferia, la aparición de país y también del sector norte del Litoral Central múltiples centros comerciales en diferentes pun- como desde Calera, Quillota, Limache y desde tos de la ciudad y la creación de la red vial del Gran Horcón, Quintero. Desde Arica y todas las ciuda- Santiago. des intermedias hasta Santiago, o buses prove- Esta última ha implicado un conjunto de obras nientes del noroeste de Santiago desde Viña del como: la Autopista de Circunvalación Américo Mar, Concón y Quintero. A este terminal llegan los Vespucio en torno a todo el perimetro urbano, la servicios internacionales desde Argentina, Perú autopista Norte-Sur que cruza la ciudad, la Auto- Brasil. Este terminal está en el centro de la ciudad pista Oriente-Poniente en la ribera norte del rio y cuenta con excelente servicio de taxis y autobu- Mapocho (inconclusa) y la red del Ferrocarril Me- ses. tropolitano, Metro. Terminal Santiago en Av Libertador Bernardo O'Hig- Esta red vial es la mayor obra urbana jamás reali- gins 3848. Atiende los servicios nacionales pro- zada en Santiago, la que ha simplificado los ac- venientes del sur del país. Además los que vienen cesos a la ciudad y facilitado su interconexión. de ciudades y balnearios del litoral central, como Además, las obras del Metro permitieron una Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, Cartagena. Algarrobo, completa remodelación del gran eje urbano for- etc. Para movilizarse a la ciudad la mejor alterna- wea mado por la Av. Libertador B. O'Higgins, Provi- liva es la estación del metro Pila del Ganso, a 1 dencia y Apoquindo y la creación de la nueva cuadra de distancia. RENT A CHILE Avenida 11 de Septiembre, paralela a Provide Servicio Internacional. movimiento de buses des- STGO.: AEROPUERTO A. MERINO BENITEZ cia. de diferentes países de América del Sur como, Srasil, Argentina, Perú, Ecuador y Venezuela, en VIÑA DEL MAR VALPARAISO CONCEPCION conexión con Santiago de Chile. TEMUCO Terminal Alameda Av Libertador Bernardo OHiggins ABIERTO TODOS LOS DIAS DEL AÑO INFORMACION DE UTILIDAD 3750. Es terminal particular de las flotas de buses El Gran Santiago, como toda gran ciudad, se rige Tur-Bus y Pullman-Bus con servicios al sur del por diferentes horarios según las distintas activi- país e intermedios. Con acceso directo a la esta- dades y hay movimiento comercial aún en dia do- ción del metro U de Santiago. mingo. La ciudad no posee un solo centro, sino En Ferrocarril actualmente sólo llegan a la capi- varios, y éstos son especializados en diferentes tal trenes de la red sur del país, a la actividades. Entregamos aquí un breve panora- Estación Central informaciones fonos 91682 y 2 ma de esta realidad: 92157. Está conectada directamente con la esta- FABRICA:DE VESTUARIO MAYOR INFORMACION ción del metro, que es la mejor manera se comuni- DEPORTIVO La complejidad de la ciudad de Santiago no pue- carse con la ciudad. Venta de pasajes en la mis- TENIS, GIMNASIA ma estación y en Galeria Libertador -Alameda RUGBY, JOGGING ETC. de ser agotada en estas páginas. Para aquellos que necesitan una mayor información de carácter 853 fonos 301818 y 330746- y en estación metro Escuela Militar, fono 2282953. APUMANQUE LOC. 409 turístico, cultural o simplemente ubicarse en esta Estación Mapocho informaciones fono 6960923, mo- TELEFONO: 2115324 gran metrópoli, recomendamos lo siguiente: FABRICA STOS: DUMONT 148 TEL. 377083 STGO Sernatur información turística de Santiago y vimiento ferroviario, por red norte, entre Valparai- todo Chile en Oficina Central, calle Catedral so y Santiago e intermedios. Hoy los trenes llegan 1150, tonos 6482151 y 6960974. También en ae- sólo hasta estación Montenegro -70 kms al no- ropuerto Comodoro Arturo Merino Benitez, en el roeste de Santiago-, pero se supone que a corto plazo, volverán a funcionar hasta Valparaíso. centro de Santiago en Paseo Ahumada esq Paseo BUSES Huérfanos y en Providencia, en Paseo Las Pal- En Automóvil una extensa red vial conduce a mas. TAS CHORPA Santiago desde diferentes puntos del país y el ex- Todocludad Guía de calles del Gran Santiago, tranjero. Para conectarse con la vialidad urbana sectorizada en 33 cuadrantes cada uno con pla- recomendamos, especialmente para quien no CO- nos, nombres de calle y principales hitos de inte- SALIDAS DIARIAS noce la ciudad, tomar porlas principales vías se- rés. Es la mejor guía de calles, portátil y de fácil ñaladas en el plano adjunto. NACIONAL DESDE: consulta. Se encuentra en las oficinas de Publi- Desde el Norte por la Panamericana Norte -ruta 5- La Serena a Pto. Montt guías, en Alameda Bernardo O'Higgins 1460. 9° que cruza Santiago de norte a sur. Piso. Desde Argentina por la Ruta Internacional -ruta 57- INTERNACIONAL Guía de Santiago Guía cultural de bolsillo escri- se accede a Santiago, casi paralela a la ruta Pa- Montevideo - Mendoza ta por Carlos Ossandón y adaptada por Dominga namericana. Ossandón. Describe la historia urbana y arquitec- Desde el Sur por la Panamericana Sur -ruta 5- que San Juan - Bariloche tónica de Santiago, con gran acopio de antece- cruza la ciudad para conectarse con la Panameri- dentes, bellos planos descriptivos y dibujos de cana Norte. Pasajes Encomiendas las más bellas plazas y edificios. Muy recomen- Desde la Costa el tramo de Costa contemplado entre dable. Se encuentra en las principales librerias, Terminal Norte Of. 11 721248 Quintero, Viña, Valparaiso hasta Algarrobo acce- Av. Lib. B. O'Higgins 1653 (Metro Los Héroes). E 723116 como librerla Universitaria, Andrés Bello y José de a Santiago por ruta 68, expedita vía de 4 pis- Terminal Stgo. Ofs. 52-70-14 v 794694-794925 Miguel Carrera. tas. Providencia 1100 (Torres Tajamar) Torre C W 744110 Desde la Costa el tramo del litoral comprendido entre Santiago COMO SE LLEGA A SANTIAGO El Tabo, Cartagena, San Antonio y Santo Domin- En Avión los vuelos internacionales y la mayoria go accede a Santiago por ruta 78 que pasa por 72 A B C D Terrazas Bellaviste 1 POLITION CRISTOBAL 20 Zoológico 18 23 5 A LOPE DE BELLO 2 24.19 10 22 16 Estación 11 Salvador LA BARRA JOSE MARIA CARO Brotana IATA tiempo ACHET Parque 3 Forestal AGENCIA DE VIAJES VALDES VIAJES NACIONALES E INTERNACIONALES VERGARA 74 ATENCION PERSONALIZADA PARA EMPRESAS AVDA ORGANIZACION DE CONGRESOS Y EVENTOS CENTRO-BELLAVISTA USE HUERFANOS 1160 OF.: 1102 STGO. 6964591 6963553 Estación Baquedano RESTAURANTES 10 Venezia F 370900 (82) 17 Cámara Negra (C2) 1 AI Kabila (D2) 16 EI Conventillo F 774164 (A2) 18 La Feria (C2) 2 Callao y Corrientes (83) GALERIAS DE ARTE 19 Café del Cerro Música F 778308 (B2) UGARTE 3 Eladio F 773337 (B2) 11 Carmen Waugh (C2) 11 Galeria Carmen Waugh (C2) 4 La Chimba F 371276 (82) 12 El Cerro (C2) ARTESANIAS '', internacional 5 El Mesón del Arzobispo F 778865 (D2) 13 La Fachada (C2) 20 El Arte (D1) 6 La Pauta (D2) 14 De los Talleres (82) 21 Piedras de Chile (C3) CARGA Y TURISMO 7 EI Parrillon (B2) 15 Eidophon (C2) 22 Taller Carillanca (B2) R La Mesquita F 372449 (A1) TEATROS 23 Las Dos Josefinas HUERFANOS 1178 OF. 501 (C2) La Parrilla del Arzobispo (D2) LES DESEA TELS: 714848 726518 16 El Conventillo F 774164 (A2) 24 LB (82) UN FELIZ VIAJE HUERFANOS 1178 LOC. A las ciudades intermedias de Melipilla y Talagan- TEL: 6966896 y Agustinas entre Morandé (poniente) y Estado te. CASILLA 13316 C. 21 (oriente). Otro centro existe en Av Providencia en- SANTIAGO-CHILE tre Pedro de Valdivia y Av Los Leones. HORARIOS URBANOS Bancarlos Lunes a viernes de 9 a 14 hrs. CENTROS COMERCIALES Oficinas Lunes a viernes de 9 a 13 y 14 a 18:30 La actividad de venta de vestuario, menaje y de- hrs. porte, es el rubro en que hay mayor número de 747621 REGION Casas de Cambio Lunes a viernes de 9 a 14 y 16 centros repartidos en la ciudad, ya sea en torno a METROPOLITANA a 18 hrs. calles, formando núcleos O simplmente en gran- Comercio Céntrico Lunes a viernes de 10 a 19 des edificios comerciales autónomos, como son 396633 SANTIAGO hrs, sábado de 10 a 14 hrs. Apumanque y Parque Arauco, que atienden aún Comercio de Providencia Lunes a viernes de 10 en día domingo. 719050 2 a 13: y 16 a 20 hrs, sábado de 10 a 14 hrs. E. filcios de Comercio Lunes a sábado de 10 a Centro de Santlago En este sector -ya descri- 2 hrs, domingo de 11 a 20 hrs. to- encontrará la mayor actividad comercial de la ciudad para ir de compras O a "vitrinear". Es tam- CENTRO ADMINISTRACION PUBLICA bién un entretenido paseo por calles peatonales, AVIS La mayor concentración de oficinas de organis- galerías comerciales y edificios de comercio. En mos del estado se encuentrant el Barrio Cívico calles Huérfanos y Estado están las mejores tien- RENT A CAR en torno al palacio presidencial, La Moneda. Tam- das de calzado; en Ahumada, la gran tienda Fala- bién en el Centro de la ciudad, delimitado por bella, y en San Antonio con Av Libertador B O'Hig- calles Amunátegui (oeste), Cerro Santa Lucía gins, Almacenes Paris. Los edificios comerciales (este), Santo Domingo (norte) y Av. Libertador Eurocentro, en Ahumada esq Moneda, y Santiago Bernardo O'Higgins (sur). Centro, en Matias Cousiño y Av Libertador B O'Higgins, son los más concurridos. Chilean Travel Services CENTRO OFICINAS Providencia ábarca desde Avenidas Manuel Su ubicación tradicional ha sido en el centro ya Montt (O), El Bosque (E), Costanera (N) y Av 11 de Emscrito. Un nuevo sector de oficinas ha apareci- Septiembre (S). Encontrará la mayor cantidad de en torno a Av Providencia y Av Apoquindo, en- vestimenta joven masculina y femenina. En calles : Avenidas Manuel Montt y El Bosque. Bucarest, General Holley, Suecia y Los Leones EXCURSIONES NACIONALES E están las tiendas más elegantes y exclusivas. Los INTERNACIONALES PIONEROS EN LA CARRETERA CENTRO FINANCIERO más concurridos edificios de comercio son: Plaza AUSTRAL Más del 90% de los bancos y financieras que hay Lyon y Centro Nuevo en Av Lyon esq Av 11 de PASAJES AEREOS - TERRESTRES en Santiago tienen SU casa matriz en el Centro ur- Septiembre, y los Dos Caracoles en Av Lyon esq MARITIMOS NACIONALES E bano enmarcado por calles Teatinos (O), Mac- Av Providencia. INTERNACIONALES Iver (E), Huérfanos (N) y Av Libertador B O'Hig- SOLICITE FOLLETO COMPLETO Lo Castillo edificio comercial ubicado en Can- VACACIONES 1986-1987 gins (S). La mayor concentración está en calle delaria Goyenechea 3820. Es de tipo Caracol Bandera. En los barrios existe una extensa red de donde destacan las finas y exclusivas tiendas de sucursales bancarias. ropa femenina, además de locales de antigüeda- AGUSTINAS 1291 . 5° PISO OFICINA F. des. Hay también 2 cines: Cine Arte Espaciocal, CENTRO DE CAMBIO Y TURISMO con café y sala de exposición (boletería desde 6967820-6967193-6962836 La mayor concentración de esta actividad se en- 15:30 hrs) y Lo Castillo (boletería desde 13:30 TELEX CTS 440084 STGO.-CHILE C, entra en el Centro urbano, en calles Huérfanos hrs). 73 DE LA ESCUELA SANTIAGO SARMIENTO DE GAMBOA, PEDRO GONZÁLEZ, SANTIAGO. Ciudad de la Región SARMIENTO ALBARRACÍN, Santiago el 4 de Metropolitana, capital del país, de la Domingo Faustino. Nació en San rofesor de geogra- región y de la provincia del mismo Juan, Argentina, el 15 de febrero de historia en el Insti- nombre. 4.318.305 habitantes en 1811. Escritor, educador y político. 845). Político. afi- 1985. Fue la primera ciudad del país, Tras su viaje a Chile en 1827, se Liberal. Comenzó fundada por Pedro de Valdivia al pie enroló en las fuerzas unitarias argen- a los 23 años, del cerro Huelén, hoy Santa Lucía, tinas. A causa de la derrota sufrida intendente de el 12 de febrero de 1541 (aunque pu- en Chacón, en 1831, emigró a Chile. eriormente ocupó do ser también el 24). Constó de Durante su permanencia en el país, unidades los cargos nueve calles de este a oeste, y quince ejerció gran influencia en la vida de norte a sur, que formaron 126 y ministro. pública e intelectual, a través de su de la Repúbli- manzanas, de 138 varas de lado y 12 actividad pedagógica. y, periodística. 1881-1886, al varas de ancho las calles: Cada man- Autor de un difundido Silabario, su (287 electores) al zana estaba compuesta por cuatro novela Facundo (1845) motivó que el que no obstante solares. El trazado lo efectuó el ala- gobierno de Chile le encargara el es- de la contienda rife Pedro de Gamboa. El 11 de sep- tudio de los métodos de enseñanza 18 electores. reci- tiembre de 1541 sufrió el asalto de en Europa y Estados Unidos. En tras la guerra los indios, que la quemaron. El 31 de 1951 se unió a Urquiza para luchar que concertar la mayo de 1552 Carlos V le concedió contra la tiranía de Rozas. Una vez (Tratado de el título de "noble y leal ciudad", y triunfante Urquiza, y descontento y un tratado de el 5 de abril de 1552, el privilegio de con la política de éste, Sarmiento armas (escudo). Ha sufrido varios Su gobierno es- retornó a Chile en 1852. De vuelta a la agitación políti- desastres causados por los temblo- su patria en 1855, fue senador, mi- ervención electoral, res, especialmente los del 4 de febre- nistro, gobernador de San Juan, mi- la discusión acerca TO de 1570, 13 de mayo de 1647, 15 nistro plenipotenciario en Santiago, 'cuestiones teológi- de marzo de 1657, 12 de julio de Lima y Washington, y presidente de incluso al rompi- 1688, 8 de julio de 1730, 25 de mayo la República (1868-74). Durante su diplomáticas de 1751, 13 de abril de 1783, 19 de mandato impulsó la educación, la Pese a ello, se lle- noviembre de 1822, 16 de agosto de extensión de la red ferroviaria y rea- nportantes realiza- 1906 y 3 de marzo de 1985. También lizó el primer censo nacional. Falle- sufrió severos daños por las salidas ocupa un lugar- ció en Asunción, Paraguay, el 11 de ificación total de la del río Mapocho, especialmente las septiembre de 1888. en Santiago el de 1609, 1684, 1779 1783. Cuenta con gas desde 1857, agua potable SARMIENTO DE GAMBOA, desde 1866, electricidad desde 1883, Pedro. Nació en Alcalá de Henares, Sucesos de la es- alcantarillado desde 1906. El 14 de España, hacia 1550. Navegante y diciembre de 1907, septiembre de 1863 quedó unida por cronista de las Indias. En 1579 des- de Pedro Montt, ferrocarril a Valparaíso. Centro po- cendió hasta el estrecho de Magalla- gubernamentales lítico, administrativo, financiero, nes. Regresó en 1584 y fundó allí dos obreros del salitre cultural e industrial. Varias universi- poblaciones: Nombre de Jesús y Rey escuela Santa Ma- dades y numerosos organismos de don Felipe, cuyos habitantes pere- Constituyó la peor investigación. Industria textil, ali- cieron de hambre. Viajó nuevamente movimiento obrero mentaria y química, entre otras. En desde España en 1592. Entre sus varios centena- sus alrededores, áreas de cultivos y narraciones destaca una Historia de frutales. los Incas. Murió en Lisboa en 1592. 159 VALDIVIA, PEDRO DE VALPARAÍSO canía (1605). Se convirtió en un in- fuerte de Tucapel. sostuvo con cansable defensor del pueblo ma- Lautaro la batalla que le costó la vi- puche, de cuya lengua llegó a con- da, el 26 de diciembre de 1553. Ha- feccionar una gramática y un voca- bía llegado a Chile con Inés Suárez; bulario. Al igual que el padre Las ante las críticas que esta relación ori Casas, sólo justificó la guerra defen- ginó en la pacata sociedad, debió ca- siva, considerando ilícito sojuzgar sarla con Rodrigo de Quiroga, en políticamente al indígena y obligarlo 1549 a pertenecer a la Iglesia. Se embarcó VALDIVIESO ZANARTU, Ra- hacia España en 1620, para informar fael Valentín. Nació en Santiago el 2 al rey sobre los acontecimientos de de noviembre de 1804. Obtuvo su tí- nuestro país. No regresó nunca. Mu- tulo de abogado el 23 de marzo de rió en Valladolid el 5 de noviembre 1825. Defensor de menores en la de 1642. Corte de Apelaciones de Santiago, administrador del Hospicio de la ca- VALDIVIA, Pedro de. Nació en pital, regidor de la Municipalidad La Serena, Extremadura, España, santiaguina, diputado por el depar- hacia 1500. tamento de Santiago en 1831, y mi- Ingresó al ejército en 1521. Parti- nistro de la Corte de Apelaciones de cipó en las guerras de Flandes e Ita- Santiago en 1832. Como el presiden- lia. En 1536 llegó a Perú, donde apo- te Joaquín Prieto ordenó el en- yó a Francisco Pizarro. Obtuvo de juiciamiento de los magistrados que éste la autorización para emprender habían absuelto a los militares acu- la conquista de Chile, pendiente des- sados por el Gobierno, renunció a la de la muerte de Almagro. Partió magistratura y se consagró al sacer- rumbo al sur en 1540. Llegó al valle docio. Se ordenó en 1837 y empezó del Mapocho en diciembre de ese su ministerio como misionero en año. El día 13 acampó al pie del Chiloé. En 1843, al fundarse la Uni- cerro Huelén, al que denominó San- versidad de Chile, fue elegido deca- ta Lucía. El 12 de febrero de 1541 no de la Facultad de Teología de la fundó la ciudad de Santiago del Universidad de Chile. El 4 de oc- Nuevo Extremo. En marzo estable- tubre de 1847 fue instituido arzobis- ció el Cabildo. La tenaz resistencia po de Santiago por Pío IX. En 1856 mapuche le obligó a solicitar refuer- le tocó participar en la llamada zos en 1554. En vista de que no llega- "cuestión del sacristán", llegando a ban, debió ir él mismo al Perú (enero ser amenazado con el destierro. de 1547). Llegó a Lima y logró ser Falleció en Santiago el 8 de junio de nombrado por el rey gobernador de 1878. Chile. A su regreso, en 1549, emprendió la conquista del sur. En VALPARÁÍSO. Ciudad y puerto medio de innumerables batallas, de la V Región, capital de ésta y de la fundó las ciudades de Concepción provincia homónima. Población es- (1550), Imperial, Valdivia (1552), timada en 1985: 273.006 habitantes. Villarrica, Arauco, entre otras. En el Se considera fundada con la llegada 177 VALPARAÍSO, BOMBARDEO DE VALLENAR VARAS a la bahía del español Juan de Sa- La flota hispana que bloqueba las de Ballenary avedra, de la expedición de Diego de costas chilenas fracasó en su intento, gins. Por ley Almagro, en 1536. Saavedra le puso por lo que el comandante Casto 1834 obtuvo.el el nombre de Valparaíso, en home- Méndez Nuñez recibió la orden de un centro agrico naje a su pueblo natal. Contaba con bombardear Valparaíso. El 27 de cialmente capri una pequeña iglesia, dos bodegas marzo de 1866 comunicó su propósi- Minas de hierrc medianas y poco más de una docena to a las autoridades del puerto. El 31 Desvío Norte), de casas en la época de su toma por del mismo mes, los barcos españoles deno el corsario Drake (1578). Se hizo al- Villa de Madrid, Blanca, Resolución- gún trabajo para su defensa en 1617: y Vencedora dispararon durante tres VARAS DE ] se construyó una batería en el, lado horas sobre la zona comercial del nio. Nació en Ca noroeste, que se artilló en 1674. En puerto. Gracias a las medidas toma- nio de 1817. EI 1682 se erigió la fortaleza de La das por las autoridades, excepto los duado de abog Concepción. Todo esto lo destruyó daños e incencios producidos por las carrera política. el terremoto de 8 de julio de 1730. balas, sólo hubo dos muertos que la- Nacional a los 25 En febrero de 1795 poseía cuatro mentar. Días. después la escuadra de 1845 fue nom castillos: La Concepción, San Anto- zarpó para bombardear El Callao. Justicia, Culto e nio, San José y Barón. Se le confirió de abril de 1850 f el título de "muy noble y leal ciudad VALPARAÍSO, Combate naval cartera del Interio de Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes de. La flota española, compuesta. teriores, cargo qu de Puerto Claro": Fue incendiada por los buques Esmeralda y Pezuela, mente el 1° de ma por los españoles después de la bloqueaba Valparaíso. El 27 de abril dente de la Cámar derrota de Chacabuco en 1817 y re- de 1818 la fragata chilena Lautaro, 1862. Senador pc ducida casi a escombros por el terre- comandada por Jorge O'Brien, se 1867, hasta 1886. ] moto de 19 de noviembre de 1822. acercó a la Esmeralda, enarbolando nado en 1882. Min Sufrió los efectos del gran incendio bandera inglesa. O'Brien y 30 Marina (1879) y de de 15 de marzo de 1843, de otro acae- hombres se lanzaron al abordaje, pe- Creó la Caja de Cre cido el 13 de noviembre de 1858, así Γo los españoles mataron a los asal- (29 de agosto de 18: como el que produjo la escuadra es- tantes. La Lautaro se dirigió hacia la cional de Ahorros pañola 31 de marzo de 1866. La Esmeralda, pero ésta huyó hacia el 1884). Tal fue su in dañaron los terremotos de 16 de sur. Al regresar, la Lautaro capturó: vida política naciona agosto de 1906-y 3 de marzo de 1985. al bergantín español San Miguel, del exagerado atribuirle Forma una sola unidad urbana con cual obtuvo un valioso botín. de las leyes dictadas Viña del. Mar. Primer puerto del 1845 y 1886. Falleció VALLENAR. Ciudad de la III país, tiene una intensa actividad im- 1886. Región de Atacama, capital de la portadora y exportadora. Importan- provincia de Huasco. 39.737 habi- VEGAS DE T te centro comercial e industrial (in- tantes en 1985. Ubicada en la mar- Combate de las. At dustria textil, mecánica, cemento, gen norte del río Huasco. Fue funda- Talcahuano por trop alimentaria). Turismo, cuya princi- da como San Ambrosio de Vällenar, ro realista Vicente pal atracción son los pintorescos 44 el 5 de enero de 1789, por el gober- món Freire decidió ai cerros de la ciudad. nador Ambrosio O'Higgins, en el noviembre de 1820. E VALPARAÍSO, Bombardeo de. valle que se llamaba de Paitanas. El en varias partes, lo qu Episodio de la guerra con España. nombre proviene del título de barón ga de los cercadore 178 nadlila y Parque el Salltre. Cuenta con diversas pla- cinante dinámica, que lo convierte en uno de los 28 kms El hostal yas, todas rodeadas de amplias veredas peato- puertos más pintorescos del mundo. y lomas nales y hermosas plazas y jardines floridos. Sus principales calles interiores también están delimi- La rada de Quintil fue bautizada Valparaíso en 1536 tales y Habitaciones de Lujo Baño Exclusivo por Juan de Saavedra -navegante de la expedición abruptos tadas por árboles; grandes palmeras adornan el Departamentos Independientes Estacionamiento estero Marga-Marga y enormes plátanos orienta- de Diego de Almagro- en recuerdo de su ciudad na- mando les forman un túnel de follaje en Av. Libertad. tal en España. En 1542, Pedro de Vardivia designa la visitante AV. VALPARAISO 299 ESQ. TRASLAVINA 184 rada como Puerto "para el trato de estas tierras y en dos S TEL: 882124 La arquitectura de Viña es singular; posee bellos ciudad de Santiago". En 1599 se levanta una capilla CAS. 73 VINA DEL MAR "chalet" rodeados de jardines en sus barrios resi- en el lugar actualmente ocupado por la iglesia Ma- El balneari TELEX: 330582 HOSTAL CK CHILE denciales y en el borde del mar, una larga avenida triz y a su alrededor se agrupan 9 a 10 modestas vi- rada, CC de altos edificios con sus balcones abiertos al odéa- viendas. Tal como acontece con la mayoria de los mar de no, los que se van alternando con una sucesión de puertos de América, Valparaíso no tiene una fecha lente pa plazas y jardines. Entre ellos se encuentra el im po- de fundación. Durante los siglos 17 y 18, el puerto celente : nente edificio del Casino Municipal que, con su multi- tiene una actividad estacional; los barcos bajaban miento Ristorantes plicidad de salas de juego, espectáculos y restau- en verano desde Callao y el puerto entonces se lle- módicos SAN MARTIN 597 rantes, es sin duda el mayor centro de esparcimien- naba de actividad y luego languidecía durante el mar, ub SAN TEL.: 975304 VINA DEL MAR CHILE to durante todo el año. año; sin embargo, para el servicio portuario se edifi- hay aba can bodegas estables, casas, iglesias y unas fortifi- sirven e. La historia de Viña es corta, recién centenaria. El lu- TODO EL ARTE CULINARIO SERVIDO EN ESTA caciones con guarnición en el llamado Castillo de MESA ES PRODUCTO DE NUESTRA gar fue una hacienda desde la época de la dolonia y San José, ubicado en el cerro Cordillera, encima de La caleta C. INIGUALABLE COCINA su nombre proviene de una viña que existió donde la actual plaza Serrano. ya resg. hoy está la Quinta Rioja. En 1855 quedó unida a Val- leta se ATENCION ESMERADA POR SUS PROPIOS DUEÑOS paraíso por el ferrocarril y desde entonces porte- A partir del inicio del siglo pasado, luego de la in- que vivi E. MELOTTI D. POLLI ños comienzan a visitar el valle de Viña, donde ha- dependencia, los puertos de Chile y América se Es una cian paseos campestres, carreras de caballos y asis- abren al comercio mundial y Valparaíso queda miento tian a los baños de mar instalados en playa Miramar, ubicado en un enclave estratégico de las rutas y de ve. hoy desaparecida. Hacia 1872, unos porteños, prin- navieras que, por el Cabo de Hornos, vienen a las en el hc cipalmente extranjeros, obtuvieron sitids en arrien- costas e islas del Océano Pacífico. Así se inicia el de dich do próximos a la linea del tren, donde edificaron sus auge de Valparaíso, que sirve como puerto de re- de las C HOTEL casas rodeadas de grandes terrenos con jardín, que calada y aprovisionamiento luego de la dura ruta la estrechez de Valparaíso no permitial La propieta- austral; también en sus bodegas se guarda la O'HIGGINS ria de la hacienda de Viña, doña Dolores P. de Alva- mercadería que es reembarcada a los restantes rez, tenía su casa un bellísimo y exolico parque en puertos del Pacífico y la Oceanía. LAS PL PLAZA los terrenos de la actual Quinta Vergara (descrito en Emigrantes ingleses, alemanes y franceses se VERGARA S/N recorridos a pie). Principal instalan en el puerto y manejan el comercio de im- (032) 882016 En 1874 se funda Viña del Mar; el municipio se ins- portación; traen además capitales extranjeros AMARILLA tala 5 años después, la iglesia parroquial y el Spor- para desarrollar la minería de cobre, plata y luego 400 mts TLX 234525 HOH CL ting Club en 1882. En el intertanto/se habia edifica- el salitre en el norte, además de las grandes apta pa do el elegante Gran Hotel -hoy desaparecido- que obras públicas que se construyen a partir de me- con rest HOTEL inició el flujo, hasta hoy ininterrumpido de santia- diados del siglo pasado. Valparaíso se transfor- ya (cam guinos a esta costa. El gran plan Viña y la Av Li- ma en la principal plaza comercial y financiera del sidad p MIRAMAR bertad se lotean en 1892, iniciandose con ello la país, con la fundación de los primeros bancos y la dentes construcción de grandes mansiones de veraneo y bolsa de valores; es además pionero en Chile en Negra CALETA ABARCA las de los nuevos residente venidos de Valparai- todos los adelantos urbanos, como el ferrocarril, peqt S/N so. El crecimiento de la ciudad balneario ha sido electricidad, tranvias, telégrafo, teléfono, gas de requeri desde entonces constante; en la primera década cañería, etc. De aquella época son las bellas grande- (032) 664077 de este siglo se contruyeron, entre otras grandes mansiones edificadas en los barrios residencia- Higuer mansiones, la Quinta Rioja, Quinta Vergara y la les del puerto y en Cerro Alegre y Concepción, TLX 234552 nombre mansión Carrasco en Av Libertad, y en la fructife- muchas de ellas transformadas hoy en pintores- MIMAR CL ribera. ra década del 30, el Teatro Municipal, Hotel COS conventillos. para nir O'Higgins, Palacio Presidencial, Casino Munici- Hoy es una gran y activa ciudad, además de capi- ta vista pal, balneario Las Salinas y camino costero a tal de la 5ª Región y principal puerto del país. Con Concón. Más tarde se termina la habitación del LOS LILE más de 300.000 habitantes, es centro comercial borde costero, con el Hotel Miramar, balneario Concón PATRICIO SILVA MIRANDA administrativo de una vasta región y lugar de tra- Caleta Abarca, Av Marina Av Perú. con ma JOYAS FINAS bajo de un área urbana que comprende Viña, Re- hermos 3 Hoy la ciudad se presenta enteramente remozada y ñaca y Concón y las ciudades interiores de Quil- EXPOSICION PERMANENTE agua, a en todo el borde costero, una segunda generación pué, Villa Alemana y Peñablanca. Una visita a la HOTEL SAN MARTIN tado CC de modernos edificios gcupan el lugar de las prime- ciudad es una experiencia fascinante, en que se VINA DEL MAR ñon. Tit ras casas de veraneo. La actividad de la ciudad es in- entremezclan el presente y el pasado. Recomen- YUNGAY 1731 OF: 208 tensa y continuada: la vida civica se concentra en la damos seguir los recorridos a pie y en automóvil COCHOA P. 219604 CASILLA 1082 calle Valparaiso, centro comercial y lugar de reu- propuestos más adelante, para obtener una vi- da del VALPARAISO CHILE nión a medio día en SUS cafés y confiterías; el espar- sión cabal de los misterios y encantos de Valpa- Cuenta cimiento se concentra en sus playas, y en las no- raíso. tes res' ches, en los miles de intretenimientos que ofrecen bién & los distintos centro del litoral. Laguna Verde se encuentra a 18 kms de Valpa- de auto raiso y su acceso es por buen camino que sale VALPARAISO a 115 kms de Santiago por ruta 68. En desde el barrio Playa Ancha en el puerto y corre RENACA las laderas de los grandes cerros que rodean la por encima de unos enormes acantilados rocosos olas fL bahía y mirando hacia el norte, trepa la ciudad de que miran al océano. El solo viaje es ya un espec- con VI. ¡NORRA! Valparaíso con un impresionante despliegue de ca- tacular paseo. Es un pequeño poblado emplaza- Estaci lles, callejuelas, pasajes y escaleras que suben hasta do junto a una gran playa de blanca arena, en una el may las cumbres; a sus pies, en la ribera y bahia, se desa- cerrada bahía bordeada de altisimos cerros, to- centra rrolla el intenso movimiento portuario del primer dos cubiertos de pinos. Es un lugar muy hermoso de eq puerto del pais. Estos dos polos de ciudad-puerto y aislado, que cuenta con varios camping bajo ya. ac están siempre presentes en el bullente acontecer de frondosos olivos, venta de provisiones y caleta de ri; 3. las calles; éstas corren por la zona plana (valle) de la pescadores. El balneario está junto al villorrio, LAS SAI ciudad, donde está el comercio, el bellísimo centro que vive de la explotación forestal y la agricultura; rrada financiero, las grandes bodegas que ocupan los pi- también junto al mar hay una central termoeléctri- con It sos-sótanos y finalmente, los patios portuarios lle- ca que es planta de emergencia de toda la zona. Desde Laguna Verde sale un camino de tierra que camar nos de mercaderías y grandes containers. en 10 kms, entre bosques de pino y pasando por miento Una visita a Valparaiso es una constante sorpresa, más S un bello hotel con buen restaurante, conduce no sólo por su encantadora vida, sino también por la hasta la playa Las Docas. Esta es bella, misterio- bre y inusitada arquitectura.y trazado de calles, donde se viento hay en combinan en un mismo paisaje urbano, las enor- sa y un excelente lugar para una tarde de sol en- mes dimensiones de los barcos con el reducido ta- tre un hermoso paisaje que antaño fue paraiso de densit los contrabandistas. 15 No: todas partes maño de sus calles. El ingenio del porteño ha hecho de esta naturaleza agreste y escarpada, un suelo se ext Quintay ubicado a 104 kms de Santiago y 45 kms ple propicio para el desarrollo de una imaginativary fas- de Vina del Mar. En Peñuelas se toma desvío de los 146 CONCÓN, BATALLA DE CONGRESO NACIONAL, PRIMER CONS CO refinería de la Empresa Nacional de en™el lugar mencionado. Su acción Petróleo. CA. L dejó. al Perú prácticamente sólo con el Huáscar para proseguir la guerra del paí CONCÓN, Batalla de. Se llevó a zuelos naval contra Chile. Murió en Quil- cabo el 21 de agosto de 1891 y cons- de 184 pué el 24 de octubre de 1887. tituyó la penúltima acción de la tomó guerra civil de ese añó. En el enfren- CONGRESO EUCARÍSTICO. El de jun tamiento, las fuerzas revolucionarias primer Congreso Eucarístico Na- "una e del Congreso, comandadas por el te- cional fue inaugurado el domingo 20 sica cu niente coronel Enrique del Canto de noviembre de 1904, en la Catedral señanz: -asesorado por el teniente coronel de Santiago, por el Arzobispo capi- no, co Emilio Körner-, vencieron a las del talino Mariano Casanova. Presiden- piano, gobierno del Presidente José Manuel te fue el futuro Obispo Miguel Claro etc.". S Balmaceda, comandadas por los ge- Vásquez, y secretario, el canónigo al franc nerales Orozimbo Barbosa y José Ernesto Palacios Varas. pesos di Miguel Alcérreca. sa de CONGRESO NACIONAL, Pri- pulcro. CONCHA JIMENÉZ LOBA- mer. Las primeras elecciones parla- del Cor TON, José de Santiago. Nació en mentarias realizadas en Santiago se dora Ze Chile en 1760. Se graduó de abogado iniciaron a las 7 de la mañana del 6 en Lima en 1784 y regresó al país. El de mayo de 1811, con el objeto de CON 26 de noviembre de 1794 fue desig- elegir diputados al Primer Congreso TRES nado oidor de la Audiencia. Cuando Nacional. Sufragaron más de 800 rante el Joaquín del Pino se retiró del mando electores, en 6 mesas. Se utilizaron Benavid en el país, al ser nombrado virrey del dos cédulas, con doce nombres ca- de cons Perú, Concha asumió el mando en da una (una cédula era para diputa- repúblic forma interina (6 de abril de 1801). dos propietarios y la otra para igualdac El 31 de diciembre de ese mismo año suplentes). la tierra lo entregó a Francisco Tadeo Diez de El Primer Congreso nacional fue tores fu Medina, oidor decano, a quien le inaugurado solemnemente el 4 de ju- Gramus correspondía desempeñarse también lio de 1811, en la sala de delibera- Berney, como gobernador interino. ciones de la Real Audiencia. Su con- Rojas. L vocatoria fue el resultado de una or- Perú. CONDELL DE LA HAZA, den emanada de la Junta de Gobier- CONS Carlos Arnaldo. Nació el 14 de agos- no del 18 de septiembre de 1810, pa- to de 1843. Tuvo una crucial partici- ra elegir un Congreso Nacional. Co- VII Regi cia de Ta pación en el Combate Naval de Pa- mo presidente de la Junta de Gobier- bitantes pudo (26 de noviembre de 1865), en no, Juan Martínez de Rozas presidió unos cas el cual fue apresada la corbeta espa- también el Congreso durante las ce- ñola Esmeralda. Su habilidad quedó remonias de instalación. Posterior- que ocup demostrada en el Combate Naval de mente Juan Antonio Ovalle fue con- dos por lo dura del Punta Gruesa (21 de mayo' de 1879), firmado en el alto cargo. Se designó zos realiz cuando, al mando de la pequeña cor- como vicepresidente a Martín Calvo Encalada. Este primer Congreso fue que al ca beta Covadonga, hizo encallar al de Villa N acorazado peruano Independencia, disuelto el 2 de diciembre de 1811. 44 EL EDIFICIO DEL CONGRESO EN VALPARAISO Sobre una superficie de 25 mil metros cuadrados se proyectó el nuevo edificio Sede del Congreso Nacional. Ubicado en el barrio El Almendral, antes estuvo allí el Hospital Enrique Deformes, demolido a raíz del terremoto de 1985. En el perímetro conformado por las calles Pedro Montt por el norte, Enrique Deformes por el sur, Avda. Argentina por el oriente y calle Rawson por el poniente, se levantarán 60 mil metros cuadrados de construcción. Estos, albergarán a una torre de 16 pisos, junto a tres edificios de cuatro pisos cada uno. Los trabajos se iniciaron en octubre de 1988 y el proyecto arquitectónico fue adjudicado -tras un concurso público- a la Oficina de Arquitectos de Juan Cárdenas, Raúl Farrú y José Covácevic. LA CONSTRUCCION Mil quinientas toneladas de estructura metálica combinada con quince mil metros cúbicos de hormigón armado son parte de las bases que sustentan la nueva Sede del Poder Legislativo. Apoyadas en el subsuelo a una profundidad de casi siete metros a partir del nivel del terreno, se encuentran las losas de la fundación de este proyecto de enormes dimensiones que ha sido cuidadosamente planificado, estructurado y concretado. 4.200 toneladas de acero hormigón 18 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 19 funcionarios del Congreso. A este número, hay se han utilizado en la obra gruesa. Piezas y que sumar el público que asistirá regularmente a materiales traídos del extranjero, tales como los las sesiones del Senado, Cámara de Diputados y mármoles españoles e italianos, se combinan con Biblioteca. la técnica y experiencia de los profesionales chilenos. Casi tres mil personas han trabajado a partir de abril de 1989, avanzando en las obras a la razón de la cifra record de 5.000 m² UN EDIFICIO "INTELIGENTE" mensuales. Dotado de un sofisticado equipamiento Cuenta con un presupuesto cercano a los 50 tecnológico, este edificio cuenta con una millones de dólares, y se espera concluir las completa red de comunicaciones que incluye obras en septiembre de 1990. salas de video-conferencias conectadas con Santiago vía microondas, una moderna central Con respecto al alhajamiento, posee un digital telefónica, una cincuentena de equipos de presupuesto de 800 millones de pesos, que ha fax y un sistema de radiocomunicaciones sido cubierto por decoradores, diseñadores y especiales para emergencias y para controlar las artesanos nacionales. Alfombras, cuadros y actividades del helipuerto que estará ubicado en mobiliario se han elegido cuidadosamente, junto la losa de la torre principal. Un sistema de a piezas traídas del antiguo Congreso de acústica y sonorización controlará la música Santiago. ambiental, informaciones internas y las pantallas que informarán sobre las actividades diarias. Un total de 112 cámaras de televisión conformarán CARACTERISTICAS un complejo sistema de circuito cerrado de televisión, distribuido en los 60 mil metros PRINCIPALES cuadrados construídos. Un sistema de control digital central de vigilancia supervisará las El Edificio consulta un área Legislativa, instalaciones de agua potable, alcantarillado, compuesta por el Senado, Cánfara de Diputados, climatización, iluminación, electricidad, Salón de Plenarios, Salas de Comisiones, ascensores, generadores de emergencias, oficinas correspondientes al escalafón superior dispositivos de seguridad interna y los detectores del personal, etc. El resto del espacio se de incendio. distribuye entre las oficinas de los Parlamentarios, Biblioteca y Oficinas El trabajo legislativo se facilitará con dos redes Administrativas, entre otras. En el primer piso se computacionales de procesamiento de datos que encontrarán los Servicios Generales, cafeterías, incluirá un sistema institucional propio para la comedores, y el espacio destinado a la prensa. tarea parlamentaria, y otro apto para el manejo Bajo el suelo y ocupando casi toda la superficie administrativo, que organizará los procesos del terreno, se planificó un estacionamiento contables, movimiento del personal, las labores subterráneo con capacidad para 500 vehículos. de archivos, documentación y biblioteca, etc. Cerca de mil aparatos telefónicos mantendrán Aproximadamente unas 800 personas cumplirán conectados a los parlamentarios con el resto del con sus funciones habituales en este lugar, país. Junto a la tradicional labor realizada por los incluyendo a los parlamentarios, periodistas y GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 21 20 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL =========== AV. PEDRO MOTT M Sala Comités Diputados Sala Comisiones Diputados M RAWSON SENADO CAMARA CONGRESO DE PLENO DIPUTADOS AV. ARGENTINA Biblioteca Graderias Biblioteca W Biblioteca taquígrafos, las Salas de Sesiones han incorporado sistemas de grabación, micrófonos y I. PERFIL DEL cuatro cámaras de televisión en cada una de ellas, que registrarán la actividad cotidiana. CONGRESO 1990 En resumen, gracias a los elementos integrados, este edificio ha sido catalogado de "inteligente" POR PARTIDO POLITICO pues reune en torno suyo a los más modernos mecanismos de control de condiciones SENADO Senda ambientales y acústicas, junto a avanzadas (47 miembros) tecnologías del campo de las comunicaciones, computación y seguridad. 19,1% RN (9) 27,6 % El edificio contará con los siguientes ingresos: PDC (13) 4,3 % PR (2) Al Senado, por calle Rawson. 4,3 % UDI (2) A la Cámara de Diputados, por Avda. 6,5 % PSA, PS, Argentina. PRSD (3) 19,1 % Desig. (9) 8,5 % PPD (4) Al Congreso Pleno, por Pedro Montt. 10,6% Por Enrique Deformes entrarán los IND. (5) parlamentarios y el público en general que acceda a la Biblioteca y a las oficinas de los House oh Deputis Parlamentarios. También por esta calle se ingresará a los estacionamientos subterráneos. CAMARA DE DIPUTADOS (120 Miembros) 4,2 % PR (5) 3,3 % SD, PH, IC (4) 5,0 % PSA (6) 5,8 % IND. (7) 32,5 % PDC (39) 10,9 % UDI (13) 13,3 % PPD (16) 25,0 % RN (30) 24 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 25 POR SEXO POR ACTIVIDAD SENADORES DIPUTADOS SENADORES Hombres 44 Hombres 113 Mujeres 3 mujeres 7 13% Otros 6,0 % 6,0 % 10% Ex FF.AA. y de Orden 94,0 % 94,0 % 77% Profesionales Profesionales: (36) Abogados (23) POR EDAD Ingenieros, varias especial. (7) Otros (6) SENADORES Ex FF.AA. y de Orden (5) Otros (agricultores, empresarios, etc.) (6) 15% 70 años y más (7) 30% Entre 40 y 49 años (14) DIPUTADOS 23% Entre 60 y 69 años (11) 32 % Entre 50 y 59 años (15) 16% Otros Edad promedio: 56 años Ex parlamentarios: (11) 23% 9% Empresarios DIPUTADOS 10% 60 años y más (12) 33% 75% Profesionales Entre 40 y 49 años (40) 23 % Profesionales (90) Entre 50 y 59 años (28) Empresarios (11) Abogados (39) Otros * (19) Ingenieros, varias -Comerciantes, funcionarios especial. (28) 33 % -agricultores, etc. Profesores (7) Entre 29 y 39 años (40) * Incluye políticos de carrera Médicos (5) Edad promedio: 45 años Ex parlamentarios: (16) 13% Otros ( (11) 26 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 27 ABREVIATURAS MAS USADAS EN ESTA PUBLICACION II. PA DIP. Diputado ORDEI SEN. Senador REG. Región Circ. Circunscripción ALFAB Dist. Distrito Coms. Comisión Demo y P Alianza Democracia y Progreso Concert. Alianza Concertación para la Democracia Unidad Demo. Incluye: Alianza Unidad para la Democracia IND. Independiente Edad, Activi PDC. Partido Demócrata Cristiano (REG). Regi RN. Partido Renovación Nacional (Circ.) Circu PR. Partido Radical (Dist.) Distri PPD. Partido Por la Democracia PRSD. Filiación Po! Partido Radical Social Demócrata SD. Partido Social Demócrata Alianza Elec UDI. Partido Unión Demócrata Independiente (Coms.) Con PSA. Partido Socialista de Almeyda PH. Partido Humanista IC. Partido Izquierda Cristiana CDL. Centro Democrático Libre SENAD Abog. Abogado Ing. Com. Ingeniero Comercial Ing. Civil Ingeniero Civil Ing. Agrónom. Alessandri E Ingenierio Agrónomo Prof. Profesor (II REG.Circ. Asist. Soc. Asistente Social Coms. Minerí: Arquit. Arquitecto Emp. Púb. Empleado Público Calderón Ar Func. Púb. Funcionario Público Desig. Senador Designado (XII REG. Ci. (R) En Retiro Trabajo. Com: Agricul. Agricultor Méd. Médico Cantuarias I Méd. Vet. Médico Veterinario Empres. Empresario Civil) (VIII RI Trabaj. Trabajador Coms. Educac Empl. Empleado Pesca y Acuic: Cont. Contador Comer. Comerciante Téc. Técnico Cooper Vale Indus. Industrial Agronom.) (IV Gob. Interior Gobierno Interior P.Coms. Agric Rég. Interior Régimen Interior OO.PP. Obras Públicas Díaz Sánche: RR.EE. Relaciones Exteriores B. Nacionales Bienes Nacionales REG.Circ.9) P Pesca y Acuicul. Pesca y Acuicultura Ecología. 28 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESC INDICE QUE Es EL Qué es el Congreso Nacional? 3 CONGRESO Funcionamiento del Congreso 4 Atribuciones exclusivas de la Cámara de Diputados 5 NACIONAL? Atribuciones exclusivas del Senado 5 Atribuciones exclusivas del Congreso 6 Diputados y Senadores 6 Es el Poder Legislativo chileno conformado Formación de la Ley 7 por una Cámara de Diputados y por el Senado. Cómo acceder a un Parlamentario Su función consiste en legislar, fiscalizar los en ejercicio? 9 Personal administrativo del Congreso 10 actos del gobierno y otorgar consentimiento 11 cuando éste lo solicita. Glosario El Edificio del Congreso en Valparaíso 19 I Perfil del Congreso 1990 25 Tiene su sede en la ciudad de Valparaíso. Abreviaturas más usadas en esta publicación 28 II Parlamentarios ordenados La Cámara de Diputados cuenta con 120 alfabéticamente 29 representantes elegidos democráticamente. El Senadores 29 Senado posee 47 miembros. De ellos, 38 son Diputados 35 electos en forma directa y el resto son III Parlamentarios ordenados designados. por Partidos Políticos 47 Partido Demócrata Cristiano 47 Partido Renovación Nacional 52 Independientes 56 CAMARA DE DIPUTADOS Partido por la Democracia 57 Partido Radical 59 Se renueva totalmente por votación directa cada Partido Radical Social Demócrata 59 cuatro años. Para estos efectos, el país está - Partido Social Demócrata 60 dividido en 60 distritos, contando cada uno de Unión Demócrata Independiente 60 éstos, con dos representantes. Pueden ser - Partido Socialista Almeyda 61 62 elegidos los ciudadanos mayores de 21 años, con - Partido Humanista Partido Izquierda Cristiana 62 Enseñanza Media completa, y que tengan Senadores Designados 63 residencia en la región a que pertenezca el IV Parlamentarios ordenados distrito electoral correspondiente. por Regiones 64 Excepcionalmente, los diputados del primer V Parlamentarios ordenados Congreso durarán en sus cargos tres años. por Comisiones legislativas 85 Senado 85 Cámara de Diputados 92 SENADO Teléfonos: Sus miembros representan a las 19 Cámara 032-230995 circunscripciones en las cuales se divide el país, Senado 032-230065 a la razón de dos por circunscripción. GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 3 Los senadores elegidos para el primer Las Cámaras no podrán entrar en sesión ni Congreso que representen a las regiones de adoptar acuerdos sin la concurrencia de la tercera número impar durarán tres años en sus cargos. parte de sus miembros en ejercicio. Los senadores de las regiones de número par, Región Metropolitana y los designados, Convocado por el Ejecutivo, el Congreso sólo permanecerán siete años. Cumplidos estos se ocupará de aquellas materias legislativas o de plazos, los senadores elegidos por votación tratados internacionales, que fueron directa durarán ocho años, renovándose explícitamente mencionados en la convocatoria. alternadamente la mitad de ellos cada cuatro años. Por su parte, los designados se mantendrán Convocado por el presidente del Senado podrá ocho años en sus cargos. ocuparse de cualquier materia de su incumbencia. Pueden ser senadores elegidos aquellos ciudadanos con derecho a sufragio, con dos años de residencia en la respectiva región, haber ATRIBUCIONES cursado la Enseñanza Media y tener cumplidos EXCLUSIVAS DE LA los 40 años de edad el día de la elección. Respecto a los senadores designados, podrán CAMARA DE DIPUTADOS tener la calidad de tal: Los ex Presidentes de la República, que hayan ejercido el cargo durante Fiscalizar los actos del gobierno. los últimos seis años en forma continua (éstos lo serán por derecho propio y tendrán el carácter de Declarar si son justificadas las acusaciones en vitalicio); Dos ex Ministros de la Corte Suprema; contra del Presidente de la República, o de los Un ex Contralor General de la República; Un ex Ministros de Estado, o de los Magistrados de los Comandante en Jefe del Ejército, de la Armada, Tribunales Superiores de Justicia, o del de la Fuerza Aerea y un ex General Director de Contralor General de la República, o de los Carabineros; Un ex Rector de una universidad Generales o Almirantes de las FFAA y de Orden, estatal 0 reconocida por el Estado y un o de los Intendentes o Gobernadores. ex Ministro de Estado. ATRIBUCIONES EXCLUSIVAS FUNCIONAMIENTO DEL SENADO DEL CONGRESO Entre las principales se cuentan: Sesiona en Legislatura Ordinaria desde el 21 de mayo hasta el 18 de septiembre de cada año. Prestar o negar consentimiento a los actos del Fuera de este lapso, el Ejecutivo está facultado Ejecutivo. para convocar a Legislatura Extraordinaria. Conocer las acusaciones entabladas por la También el Congreso puede autoconvocarse a Cámara de Diputados. través del presidente del Senado y a solicitud de la mayoría de los parlamentarios. Conocer las contiendas de competencia suscitadas entre las autoridades políticas o 4 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 5 administrativas y los tribunales superiores de contratos con el Estado, si ejercita influencia ante justicia. las autoridades administrativas o judiciales, incita a la alteración del orden público o si Conceder autorización para que el Ejecutivo compromete gravemente el honor de la Nación. pueda ausentarse del país. Los parlamentarios sólo son inviolables en el Dar su dictamen al Presidente en los casos que desempeño de sus cargos, en sesiones de sala o éste lo solicite. de comisión. Declarar la inhabilidad del Presidente de la Los diputados y senadores recibirán como renta República, cuando un impedimento físico o única una dieta equivalente a la de un Ministro mental le impida el ejercicio normal de sus de Estado. funciones. FORMACION DE LA LEY ATRIBUCIONES EXCLUSIVAS La Constitución establece las materias de ley. DEL CONGRESO Pueden ser codificadas y se incluyen materias básicas laborales, sindicales, previsionales, las Aprobar tratados internacionales que le operaciones financieras del Estado, presente el Presidente de la República previo a su administración y división política del país, ratificación. materias de guerra, indultos, amnistías y, en general, toda otra norma de carácter general y Pronunciarse respecto al estado de sitio, en caso obligatoria que estatuya bases esenciales de un de guerra interna o conmoción interior. ordenamiento jurídico. Una ley puede originarse en la Cámara de Diputados, en el Senado, en un mensaje del DIPUTADOS Y SENADORES Presidente de la República 0 por moción de cualquier parlamentario. No pueden ser candidatos a parlamentarios quienes durante el año anterior a las elecciones Las leyes sobre tributos, presupuestos de la se hayan desempeñado como ministros de administración pública y reclutamiento, sólo Estado, intendentes, gobernadores, alcaldes, pueden tener origen en la Cámara de Diputados. miembros de los consejos regionales y comunales, miembros del Consejo del Banco Las leyes sobre amnistía e indultos generales Central, magistrados, miembros del Tribunal sólo se originarán en el Senado. Constitucional y Contralor General de la Corresponderá al Ejecutivo la iniciativa en las República. leyes sobre la división política o administrativa del país, la administración financiera del Estado, Los cargos de diputado y senador son incluyendo la Ley de Presupuestos y las leyes incompatibles entre sí, y con todo empleo sobre las fuerzas de aire, mar y tierra. El retribuido con fondos fiscales. Presidente tendrá iniciativa exclusiva para imponer o suprimir tributos; crear nuevos Cesa en su cargo un parlamentario si celebra servicios públicos o suprimirlos; celebrar 6 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 7 empréstitos; fijar remuneraciones, jubilaciones y COMO ACCEDER A rentas; fijar procedimientos de la negociación colectiva y las normas sobre seguridad social. UN PARLAMENTARIO El Congreso podrá aprobar o rechazar las EN EJERCICIO? iniciativas propuestas por el Presidente de la República. Cada parlamentario debe asistir a las sesiones de la Legislatura Ordinaria y Extraordinaria, Un proyecto desechado en su Cámara de origen cuando éstas son convocadas. Las sesiones se no podrá ser renovado hasta después de un año. llevan a cabo los días martes y miércoles de cada semana. Las reuniones de los distintos Comités y Todo proyecto de ley será objeto de adiciones o comisiones legislativas se efectuan los jueves y correcciones en los trámites que corresponda, viernes. El resto de los días de la semana debe tanto en la Cámara de Diputados como en el permanecer en su respectivo Distrito. Allí, Senado. Aprobado un proyecto en su Cámara de atiende personalmente las consultas y demandas origen, pasará a la otra para su discusión. de sus representados. Para efectuar dichas labores, otorga entrevistas, organiza sesiones de Si el proyecto es desechado totalmente en la trabajo, reuniones grupales, recibe llamados Cámara revisora pasará a ser estudiado por una telefónicos, responde correspondencia, etc. Comisión Mixta formada por senadores y diputados para su consideración. De allí, volverá En la Sede del Congreso, contará con una a su Cámara de origen para su reconsideración. oficina que cumplirá con la misión de recibir las Dependiendo del resultado de este trámite, solicitudes que provengan del público que lo volverá a ser estudiado por una comisión mixta y solicite. Entre éstas, se considerarán entrevistas, por la Cámara revisora, para su aprobación o audiencias especiales, llamados telefónicos, dar rechazo definitivo. respuestas a cartas y, en general a todas aquellas Si un proyecto es aprobado por ambas inquietudes de los electores. Cámaras, se remitirá al Ejecutivo, quien, si Como acceder al Texto de los Debates: también lo aprueba, dispondrá de su El público en general puede asistir a las sesiones promulgación como ley. Si lo rechaza, lo tanto de la Cámara de Diputados, como del devolverá a su Cámara de origen con las Senado. Las reuniones de las Comisiones, en observaciones pertinentes. El proyecto volverá a cambio, son reservadas. En cuanto al texto de la ser considerado, pero sólo en dichas discusión parlamentaria, éste se publica en forma observaciones. Si ambas Cámaras aceptan las de extracto en la prensa nacional. observaciones, el proyecto tendrá fuerza de ley y se devolverá al Presidente para su promulgación. La promulgación de una ley se hará dentro de un plazo de diez días, contados desde que ella sea procedente. La publicación se hará dentro de los cinco días hábiles a la fecha en que quede totalmente tramitado el decreto promulgatorio. 8 GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL GUIA DEL CONGRESO NACIONAL 9 best known in SANTIAGO DE CHILE, Iglesia San Francisco, 1572 see WELCOME TO AMERICAN EMBASSY SANTIAGO 7-19 aaronson 1145 $CM's - 2 - Be prepared THE PRESIDENT'S SEPTEMBER 16-22 TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA: THEMES AND RELATED MATERIAL FOR SPEECHES I. OVERVIEW The President's major address in Brazil and his speeches in Uruguay, Argentina, Chile and Venezuela will provide him an unparalleled opportunity to stress the theme of partnerships based on the principles of free government and free enterprise. The speeches should highlight what we and the Latins have done to sustain the momentum towards stronger democratic institutions and rational economic development, and the challenges that face us in the future. We must be forthright, however, in telling the Latins that even though progress has been made, there is still a great deal to do. Governments and electorates in the five countries the President will visit are showing new determination and realism in pursuing economic opening and reform. If these reforms continue, economic progress in which all can participate becomes an attainable goal. The President's Enterprise for the Americas initiative is intended to give impetus to the economic restructuring which has begun -- to greater and lesser degrees -- in these five countries, and to sustain and deepen this process in tangible ways. Development is not a single event, but a continuous process of fundamental change; not just investment or trade reform, but a reshaping of the whole society and its world view. In the economic sphere, open markets not only generate growth to the benefit of all concerned, but also offer participation, mobility, opportunity and empowerment to all sectors of society. An overburdened state, trying but failing to perform the work of the private sector, is not the agent of social justice but rather an obstacle to its attainment. polevelopment and to Lotin America, they are part of any Just as change, competition and sound currencies are essential to1 and successful economy. they are to Latin American development. This is a lesson we in the U.S. are constantly re-learning. As the pace of technological change grows ever more rapid, only those economies which welcome change and actively seek out new opportunities will prosper. The President's initiative offers a vision of where we should aim to go over the next decade and what forms - 3 - our cooperation should take. It is not a detailed, comprehensive plan for development, nor a set of ready-made, short-term solutions to specific problems. Its aims to establish a long-term partnership, a process in which the details of our new economic relationship will be developed through consultation and accommodation. Attached on Tabs A through E you will find memoranda which describe the individual circumstances affecting each of the five speeches and proposes themes which should be incorporated into the President's remarks. - 4 - TAB A BRAZIL (Sunday, September 16 - Monday, September 17) Suggested Venue: still undetermined, most likely a joint session of congress in Brasilia, but possibly a business group in Sao Paulo. Probably Audience: members of the Brazilian Congress, selected members of the GOB, representatives of the diplomatic corps, business interests. Local Color: (1) Brasilia, a starkly modern planned city, symbolizes Brazil's pioneering vision of the future and its potential as a world economic and political leader. President Eisenhower, whose centenary we celebrate this year, visited Brasilia in 1960, prior to its formal inauguration as the new capital of Brazil; (2) Sao Paulo, Latin America's largest industrial city, embodies the region's potential dynamism and projection toward world markets. Themes for the Major Address: -- As we approach the quincentenary of Columbus' encounter with the new world, it becomes increasing clear that in 1992 -- if not sooner -- the rest of the world will rediscover the Americas. -- After more than a decade of economic stagnation and serious social and political problems the region now appears on the threshold of sustained economic growth, social development and a new level of political maturity firmly rooted in respect for democratic processes and human/political rights. -- Regretably, the only anomaly in this revolution of freedom is Cuba, which still clings to outmoded political and economic models that put it more and more out of step with the rest of the hemisphere. We are confident that eventually Cuba too will realize the depth of the changes that are occurring all around the world and rejoin the inter-American community as a full partner. -- The old idea of a Western Hemisphere that is different, separate and aloof from the corrupting - 5 - influences of the Old World must now give way to a new vision of the Americas as full and equal partners with the industrialized nations in the forging of a more cooperative, more peaceful, more interdependent world for the 21st century. -- With democracy largely achieved, the region now faces the challenge of its consolidation and deepening. This will require both economic growth and social modernization. We are prepared to help in this process. -- In the face of this daunting task we have the advantages of a young, vigorous population and abundant natural resources. -- We in the Western Hemisphere appear to be reaching a new understanding of the proper parameters of state authority over the individual and the economy. -- One of the most difficult steps remaining in setting these parameters is the creation of a sound currency and erasing the memory of inflation. Success in this area is galvanizing Germany's unity. Without it development in Latin America is unlikely. -- The balance between public and private sector power will be different from country to country, but throughout the hemisphere opportunities for the individual to speak, act and work according to his own conscience -- and to seek unlimited economic horizons free from the stifling intervention of the state -- now appear better than they have been anytime in this century. -- The Enterprise for the Americas (Iniciativa para las Américas) announced on June 27 -- proposing new ideas on trade, investment and debt -- is a clear indication that the United States is ready to be a full partner in this new American revolution. Brazil-Specific Themes for the Major Address: : Brazil, known for its economic miracle" in the 1960's and early '70s, is now a regional political leader and major player in the international economic arena. President Collor's bold economic reform program, which we applaud and follow with close interest, can help serve as a catalyst in strengthening Brazil's economy and world role. With regard to the all-critical inflation hurdle, the U.S. is prepared to provide technical assistance and to encourage the multilateral institutions to become involved in this area. The challenge, however, is Brazil's. The United States attaches great significance to the 1992 U.N. -sponsored environmental conference which will be hosted by Brazil and plans to work closely with the GOB to insure maximum effectiveness. The U.S. endorses the establishment of an international fund to assist less developed countries to make the technological changes necessary to reduce chloroflurocarbons emissions. We are working with Brazil through both bilateral and multilateral channels to address the major threats to the world's environment and global climate change. President Collor's personal commitment to combatting drug use will spur our joint narcotics interdiction and education efforts. Brazil and the United States share an intense interest in the successful outcome of the Uruguay Round of GATT. As large nations with global interests, the United States and Brazil have a common interest in international peace and security issues. We need to increase the level and frequency of our discussions on the subject of global arms and nuclear proliferation, particularly with regard to regional instability. Quotable Quotes: (None provided by Embassy Brasilia.) - 7 - TAB B URUGUAY (Tuesday, September 18) Suggested Venue: a joint session of the Uruguayan congress in Montevideo. Probable Audience: members of the Uruguayan Congress, selected members of the GOU, representatives of the diplomatic corps. Local Color: the Uruguay Round of the GATT was begun here, making it particularly appropriate for the President to note its successful implementation. President Bush will be the first U.S. president to visit Uruguay since Johnson participated in the Meeting of American Chiefs of State at Punta del Este in 1967. Themes: Two facets of the Enterprise for the Americas initiative -- trade and investment -- are of particular interest to Uruguay. In addition to the successful completing of the Uruguay Round of GATT, the U.S. is pleased that Uruguay and its neighbors are actively considering the elimination of reduction of barriers to free trade through a regional trade agreement and through strengthening of ALADI, the Latin American Integration Association. We also applaud President Lacalle's proposal for a hemisphere capital market as a stimulus to investment, and are encouraged by progress made here and else where on bilateral investment treaties. President Lacalle's courageous implementation of a wide range of structural reforms will improve the economic environment, while other reforms will reduce the size of the state, bring greater stability to prices and to the currency, reform or eliminate costly state monopolies, and modernize labor relations to make Uruguay more competitive on the international labor market. We are also encouraged by clear signs that Uruguay is willing to cooperate in controlling international narcotics trafficking, particularly money laundering and other types of criminal financial activity. - 8 - Quotable Quotes: "The economic relationship between Latin America and the United States needs to be reconsidered. We do not believe that the solution is more aid but rather more trade, more investment we would also like to point out that our countries are undertaking profound transformations in their respective economies creating in this way, a favorable climate for investment. The restructuring of the state has been undertaken as a necessary goal by almost all of the American nations and it is proof of the will towards change which guides the Latin American governments, because we see and recognize that this is not a one-way street. " (President Lacalle, OASGA, Asuncion, June 1990) - 9 - TAB C ARGENTINA (Wednesday, September 19) Suggested Venue: a joint session of the Argentine Congress in Buenos Aires. Probable Audience: members of the Argentine Congress, selected members of the GOA, representatives of the diplomatic corps. Local Color: President Bush will be the first U.S. President to visit Argentina since Eisenhower in 1960. It comes at a time of a 180 degree shift in Argentine attitudes toward the world at large, including the United States, and the causes of their national problems. Once the eight ranking economy in the world, Argentina now ranks 58th. President Menem speaks openly of his friendship and admiration for President Bush. He seeks to integrate Argentina fully into the international community while abandoning statist, protectionist economic policies. The magnitude of economic reform needed is greater in Argentina than in the other countries the President is visiting and resistance to Menem's efforts is strong. Themes: Argentina is enjoying one of the longest periods of constitutional rule in its recent history and the protection offered to human and civil rights has increased. Argentina led the hemispheric move away from military governments to democracy in the 1980's. -- The United States supports President Menem's courageous economic reform program, including restructuring of the public sector, and other policies leading to a modern, growing, market-oriented economy. -- Economic reform will encourage greater individual initiative, thereby improving the prospects of prosperity for this and future generations. --- The increasing attention paid to the establishment of a sound currency merits hope and further encouragement by those who have supported Argentina's past efforts in this area. - 10 - -- President Menem's determination to divest monopolistic enterprises, especially the privatization of the national telephone system, sets an example for the other nations of Latin America. The Bilateral Investment Treaty which we have signed will encourage United States investors to join Argentines in a cooperative partnership that will result in greater productivity, more exports, more jobs and a return to the level of optimism and the standard of living that Argentina enjoyed in the past. The Mutual Legal Assistance Treaty we have signed is a further step forward in our close cooperation in the figlt against narcotrafficking and other transnational criminal activity In this spirit of reform and modernization, the United States welcomes Argentina's decision to help halt the proliferation of dangerous missile systems and to cooperate more fully with the international community in nuclear safeguards within the spirit of the Tlatelolco Treaty. As President Menem's economic reform policies develop and are implemented, they may provide the potential for voluntary, negotiated debt and debt service reduction as a compliment to new commercial bank lending. Quotable Quotes: "To take advantage of democratic experiences to propel economic growth and progress is the principal crossroads and challenge for our peoples and governments. "We Argentines must abandon this fabled mental colonialism that tells us that all of our problems come from elsewhere. Because if we think that way we'll come to the conclusion that we have no solution within our own means, by our decisions, by our courage. The people will do it; through the people is how its done. People think of opportunities rather than excuses, of possibilities rather than risks, or new horizons rather than old dangers." (President Menem, Congress, May 1, 1990) - 11 - TAB D CHILE (Thursday, September 20) Suggested Venue: the GOC very much wants the President to address a joint session of the Chilean Congress at its new headquarters in Valparaiso. This would pose logistical and security problems. Alternative venues are the old congress building in Santiago, the University of Chile and the Diego Portales Building, headquarters of the previous military government, all of which pose political problems. Probable Audience: in Valparaiso, members of the congress, selected members of the GOC and representatives of the diplomatic corps. Local Color: After more than 16 years of estrangement in U.S.-Chilean relations, the President's visit will be interpreted by most observers as a strong endorsement for democracy and for the kind of market-oriented economic reforms that have made Chile's economy one of the strongest in the region. According to an independent study, Chile has transferred twice the value of state-owned assets to the private sector than has Britain, and in half the time. Themes: -- Latin America, like Eastern Europe, is shedding failed political and economic ideologies and rediscovering the power of individual citizens seeking their own and collective interests within a free and open society. -- The United States joins all Chileans in celebrating the return to democracy and renewed respect for the sanctity of individual liberties and is ready to play an active, positive role in this process. -- Chile's economic achievements serve as a guide to economic planners in other countries. Recent economic growth is the envy of the rest of Latin America, fully one third of national output is devoted to international trade, a tribute to the openness of the economy and the productivity of the Chilean people. - 12 - -- Chile's uniformly low tariffs, simplified investment rules, efficient procedures and honest civil servants combine to give Chile a significant advantage in the new, more integrated world that faces us in the 21st century. As a result, Chile stands to benefit more from more open international markets than any other country in Latin America. Similarly, Chile's sound, innovative management of is foreign debt, which appear overwhelming only a few years ago, has been impressive and serves a a model for the rest of Latin America. Through hard work and sacrifice the debt has been reduced from 14 billion to 5 billion dollars, making Chile the first country in the region to regain normal access to sources of international finance. Quotable Quotes: "Chileans, with a tradition of democratic institutions, of respect for human rights, of the rule of law, have chosen to remake their society, based on those values which honored their country in the past at the same time we want to seek progress and economic development, based on an open and competitive system, in which all creative initiatives find space for expression." (President Aylwin, Expomin 90, May 15, 1990) 'We need to grow if we want to overcome poverty. This requires that we stimulate savings, investments, creative initiative and the entrepreneurial spirit. Government policies must reconcile the spirit of social justice and the legitimate requirement to satisfy essential needs with the unavoidable demand for growth and development. " (President Aylwin, Inaugural Address, March 12, 1990) - 13 - TAB E VENEZUELA (Saturday, September 22) Suggested Venue: breakfast meeting of the Venezuelan-American Chamber of Commerce (VENAMCHAM), at the Hilton. Probable Audience: members of VENAMCHAM and representatives of other appropriate Venezuelan and U.S. organizations. Local Color: Venezuela is one of South America's most stable democracies, with a long tradition of free, openly contested elections and respect for civil and political liberties. The oil bonanza is over, however, and Venezuelans are adjusting to the new reality of austerity. Although this has tempered somewhat Venezuelans' image of themselves as regional leaders, President Perez still aspires to play a leading role in hemisphere affairs and can be counted on to be generally supportive of U.S. interests. Themes: The VENAMCHAM venue is an ideal forum for emphasizing the U.S. role as Venezuela's largest market and, reciprocally, our role as its principal supplier. | The recently concluded free trade agreement with Canada, ongoing negotiations with Mexico for a similar accord, and the recently announced Enterprise for the Americas initiative bode well for economic growth in the hemisphere and the expansion of Latin American trade to non-traditional markets. Venezuela, which has implemented an innovative economic reform program which includes reduction of trade barriers, free market discipline and export oriented growth, is poised to take advantage of these opportunities. Venezuela's role in international cooperation to eliminate narcotics production and trafficking is also important. Although not a producing country, we need Venezuela's help in suppressing transshipment, the uncontrolled use of precursor chemicals and money laundering is crucial to regional anti-narcotics efforts. - 14 - Quotable Quotes: "President Bush has thrown down a positive challenge to us Latin Americans, to which we cannot, nor should we, respond with the same old suspicions which have generally fed the misunderstandings of the past. If we think what he prooses is easy, it is not. We have to bridge that gap between out beliefs and understanding of Latin America's realities and the concepts that we still hold to with regard to the role our peoples and economies must play in the wake of the industrialized world. Yet never has the United States taken an initiative of such enormous importance for the region. The dialogue we are offered opens up paths so far not explored. II (President Perez' Independence Day address, July 5, 1990.) - 15 - Drafted: ARA/PPC: WLofstrom 7-6374 Approved: ARA: DMalpass Cleared ARA: WBrownfield ARA/BR: MLore ARA/SC: BOwens ARA/AND: CShapiro ARA/EPC: MHarrington ARA/PPC: DSkocz Document SEARAPPC 8450 7/6/90 STAFFED Grant/Dooley November 28, 1990 2:00 p.m. A:CHILE.TOA PRESIDENTIAL TOAST: CHILE STATE DINNER LA MONEDA PALACE SANTIAGO, CHILE THURSDAY, DECEMBER 6, 1990 President Aylwin, thank you for your hospitality and generosity during my visit to your beautiful country. We first met earlier this year at the White House, and I hope to see you again when you next visit the United States. In accepting Ambassador Silva's credentials as Chile's representative in the United States, I said, "We are happy for Chile and optimistic about its future. Your country's deep MK democratic tradition, its strong economy, and the richly deserved reputation of the Chilean people for dynamism and creativity reinforce our confidence." I shouldn't have been so restrained. Now that I've had the opportunity to visit Chile, I am even more convinced that Chile's future is bright. You deserve your reputation as a model for other countries in the region and the state world. Your recent economic growth is the envy of Latin America. It's a pleasure to hear freedom spoken of as the recognized right of all people not only to elect their own government, but to control their own destiny and follow their dreams. And it's a pleasure to listen to the language of optimism, to hear trade barriers spoken of as obstacles to eliminate -- and openness as the path to prosperity. Today, I've heard economic 2 growth and development discussed, not as ends in themselves, but as the means to raise the standard of living and to broaden opportunity for all Chile's citizens -- as the means to a better life for her people. Earlier this year, Mr. President, you observed: "Chileans, with a tradition of democratic institutions, of respect for human rights, of the rule of law, have chosen to remake their society, based on those values which honored their country in the past MK at the same time we want to seek progress and economic development, based on an open and competitive system, in which all creative initiatives find space for expression." And so it is with a noble spirit and honorable values that the Chilean people are remaking their society -- a society founded on democracy and economic liberty. To achieve this, the people of Chile need leaders of vision and courage. And in President Alywin, they have found one. To the bright future of this nation, to the freedom-loving people of Chile, and to you, Mr. President, I raise my glass in a toast -- May the renewed friendship between our two great nations remain as strong and healthy as it is tonight. Thank you and God bless you. # # # SUGGESTED STATE DINNER TOAST SANTIAGO, CHILE In accepting Ambassador Silva's credentials as Chile's representative in the U.S., I said, "We are happy for Chile and optimistic about its future. Your country's deep democratic tradition, its strong economy, and the richly deserved reputation of the Chilean people for dynamism and creativity reinforce our confidence." I shouldn't have been so restrained. Now that I've had the opportunity to visit Chile, I am even more convinced that Chile's future is bright. You earned and deserve your reputation as a model for other countries in the region and the world. It's a pleasure to hear freedom spoken of as the recognized right of all people not only to elect their government, but to chart their own economic path and develop their own culture. And it's a pleasure to listen to the language of optimism, to hear trade barriers spoken of as things to eliminate and openness as the key to prosperity. -2- It's also good to hear economic growth and development discussed, not as ends in themselves, but as the means to raise the standard of living of all Chile's citizens, to broaden opportunities for creative initiative, and to satisfy the basic needs of all. The United States and Chile have had diplomatic relations for over 170 years. At times, we have our differences -- that's not unusual. But differences have been overwhelmed by shared values which have carried us, sometimes along different paths, but always in the same direction toward the common goals of freedom and democracy. Today, I visited Chile's Congress. I saw in Valparaiso further proof that Chile's democracy has reasserted itself, and with it there is a renewed commitment to justice and the rule of law. Democracy and economic freedom together are a winning combination, and I salute you, Mr. President, and all Chileans as you go forward. FYI : A good contact Mr. Duncan (202)663-1122 State Dept. Historian Good for history of aiptomatic relations, etc.