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Source Description
The second half of the 1300s was one of the great periods of Italian silk design. Drawing upon Chinese, Islamic, and European motifs, artists created international designs. This rare, fragmentary chasuble displays a Chinese phoenix with outstretched wings flying toward a group of pseudo-Kufic, Arabic-like letters while a dog snarls at the bird. Arabic script was associated with the Holy Land. Italian textiles were an important export product at the end of the Middle Ages. In this case, the fabric was shipped to Germany, where it was used to create a chasuble, the upper garment of the bishop and priest during Holy Mass.
Scholar Source Context
Document identity
localId
110051
label
Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band
core
obj
dtoType
object
pageCount
1
Source metadata
id
110051
contentType
object
title
Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band
description
The second half of the 1300s was one of the great periods of Italian silk design. Drawing upon Chinese, Islamic, and European motifs, artists created international designs. This rare, fragmentary chasuble displays a Chinese phoenix with outstretched wings flying toward a group of pseudo-Kufic, Arabic-like letters while a dog snarls at the bird. Arabic script was associated with the Holy Land. Italian textiles were an important export product at the end of the Middle Ages. In this case, the fabric was shipped to Germany, where it was used to create a chasuble, the upper garment of the bishop and priest during Holy Mass.
date
1300s
rights
CC0
rightsUri
CC0
language
en
wikidata
Q60759992
genreSpecific
Textile
imageCount
1
source
import
dimensionsRaw
Overall: 106.7 x 68.6 cm (42 x 27 in.); Mounted: 123.2 x 82.5 cm (48 1/2 x 32 1/2 in.)
cul
Italy (Chasuble) and Germany (Orphrey)
accession
1928.653
Source extras
tec
Silk and gold thread, lampas weave; embroidered orphrey
tombstone
Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band, 1300s. Italy (Chasuble) and Germany (Orphrey). Silk and gold thread, lampas weave; embroidered orphrey; overall: 106.7 x 68.6 cm (42 x 27 in.); mounted: 123.2 x 82.5 cm (48 1/2 x 32 1/2 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund, 1928.653
collection
T - Ecclesiastical
citations
citation
G. U. (Gertrude Underhill). "A Textile of the Fourteenth Century." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 16, no. 3 (1929).
page_number
51-48
url
www.jstor.org/stable/25137195
citation
Los Angeles County Museum. 2000 Years of Silk Weaving: An Exhibition Sponsored by the Los Angeles County Museum in Collaboration with the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Detroit Institute of Arts. 1944.
page_number
no. 97, p. 14, pl. 26
citation
Weibel, Adèle Coulin. Two Thousand Years of Textiles; The Figured Textiles of Europe and the Near East. New York: Published for the Detroit Institute of Arts [by] Pantheon Books, 1952.
page_number
p. 134. no. 195
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>The Cleveland Museum of Art Handbook.</em> Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1958.
page_number
Mentioned and Reproduced: cat. no. 163
citation
Honour, Hugh. Chinoiserie; The Vision of Cathay. [London]: J. Murray, 1961.
page_number
pl. 2, p. 246
citation
Walters Art Gallery (Baltimore, Md.). The International Style: The Arts in Europe Around 1400; [Exhibition]: October 23-December 2, 1962, / B. [Baltimore, Md.]: Walters Art Gallery, 1962.
citation
"Gothic Art 1360-1440." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 50, no. 7 (1963): 174-215.
page_number
p. 181, 214, no. 94
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1966</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1966.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 60
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1969</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1969.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 60
citation
Devoti, Donata. L'arte del tessuto in Europa. Milano: Bramante, 1973.
page_number
fig.. 36
citation
Mayer-Thurman, Christa C., John Maxon, Aidan Kavanagh, Donald L. Garfield, and Horace T. Allen. <em>Raiment for the Lord's Service: A Thousand Years of Western Vestments</em>. Chicago: Art Institute, 1975.
page_number
no. 12, p. 78-9 illus. p. 78
citation
Wardwell, Anne E. 1977. “The Stylistic Development of 14th- and 15th-Century Italian Silk Design.” <em>Aachener Kunstblätter / Hrsg. Im Auftr. Des Vorstandes Des Aachener Museumsvereins</em> 47.1976/77(1977), 177-226.
page_number
p. 200-202
citation
The Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1978</em>. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1978.
page_number
Reproduced: p. 69
citation
Welch, Anthony. Calligraphy in the Arts of the Muslim World. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1979.
page_number
p. 90, no. 28
citation
Ball, Victoria Kloss. Architecture and Interior Design. New York: Wiley, 1980.
page_number
fig 5.53, p. 190-191
citation
Martin Nagy, Rebecca. Textiles in Daily Life in the Middle Ages. Cleveland, Ohio: Cleveland Museum of Art in cooperation with Indiana University Press, 1985.
page_number
p. 13, 17, 57
citation
Wardwell, Anne E. "Flight of the Phoenix: Crosscurrents in Late Thirteenth- to Fourteenth-Century Silk Patterns and Motifs." <em>The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art</em> 74, no. 1 (1987): 2-35. Accessed September 27, 2020. http://www.jstor.org/stable/25159970.
page_number
p. 26-27, fig. 34
citation
Jacobson, Dawn. Chinoiserie. London: Phaidon, 1993.
page_number
p. 23
citation
Sporbeck, Gudrun. "Liturgical Vestments adorned with Cologne bands over the centuries." In I<em>conography of Liturgical Textiles in the Middle Ages</em>. Evelin Wetter and Michael Bangert, editors. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2010.
page_number
p. 183-193
citation
Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>The CMA Companion: A Guide to the Cleveland Museum of Art</em>. Cleveland: Cleveland Museum of Art, 2014.
page_number
Mentioned and reproduced: P. 368
citation
Müller, Kathrin. <em>Musterhaft naturgetreu: Tiere in Seiden, Zeichnungen und Tapisserien des 14. und 15.</em> <em>Jahrhunderts.</em> Berlin: Gebr. Mann Verlag, 2020.
page_number
Reproduced: P. 62, abb. 18
citation
Phillips, Amanda. <em>Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles between the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean</em>. 2021.
page_number
p. 33, fig. 1.7
creditline
Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund
updatedAt
2026-05-29 05:51:37.164000
sourceId
110051
dept
Textiles
coll
T - Ecclesiastical
med
Silk and gold thread, lampas weave; embroidered orphrey
thumbnail_url
image_url
Single page context
seq
1
pageIndex
0
type
photo
mediaId
643be793c2dc8ca1