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Source Description

According to Elizabethan embroidery scholar Jacqui Carey, the scale and construction of this purse and its trimmings are typical of a so-called ‘sweet bag’, a container for sweet-smelling substances. This term was popularized in George Wingfield Digby’s 1963 publication on Elizabethan embroidery; Digby used the term to describe small English purses dating from the 1500s and 1600s. In CMA’s example, the handle and lining look to be later replacements. The embroidery is worked on an open plain weave linen fabric with silk in a range of colors and silver metal thread (thin metallic strips wrapped around a white silk core). In places, the inked design is visible on the linen. The stitches used for the purse’s background are unusual in that they lie horizontally rather than vertically. The rectangle of embroidered fabric was folded along the base and stitched together up the sides. Ten holes are pierced through the embroidered fabric near the top edge of the purse. Two drawstrings, terminating in ornate tassels, are threaded through the holes. The nine floral motifs-- carnation, borage, rose, columbine, honeysuckle, grapes, rose, pansy and thistle—set within coiling stems and foliage are typical of the period. Two embroidery stitches were used, tent stitch and Elizabethan ground stitch.

Scholar Source Context

Document identity
localId
124968
label
Purse
core
obj
dtoType
object
pageCount
1
Source metadata
id
124968
contentType
object
title
Purse
description
According to Elizabethan embroidery scholar Jacqui Carey, the scale and construction of this purse and its trimmings are typical of a so-called ‘sweet bag’, a container for sweet-smelling substances. This term was popularized in George Wingfield Digby’s 1963 publication on Elizabethan embroidery; Digby used the term to describe small English purses dating from the 1500s and 1600s. In CMA’s example, the handle and lining look to be later replacements. The embroidery is worked on an open plain weave linen fabric with silk in a range of colors and silver metal thread (thin metallic strips wrapped around a white silk core). In places, the inked design is visible on the linen. The stitches used for the purse’s background are unusual in that they lie horizontally rather than vertically. The rectangle of embroidered fabric was folded along the base and stitched together up the sides. Ten holes are pierced through the embroidered fabric near the top edge of the purse. Two drawstrings, terminating in ornate tassels, are threaded through the holes. The nine floral motifs-- carnation, borage, rose, columbine, honeysuckle, grapes, rose, pansy and thistle—set within coiling stems and foliage are typical of the period. Two embroidery stitches were used, tent stitch and Elizabethan ground stitch.
date
early 1600s
rights
CC0
rightsUri
CC0
language
en
wikidata
Q79903186
genreSpecific
Embroidery
imageCount
1
source
import
dimensionsRaw
Overall: 11.5 x 12 cm (4 1/2 x 4 3/4 in.)
cul
England, early 17th century
accession
1946.416
Source extras
tec
embroidery; silk and silver filé on linen ground
tombstone
Purse, early 1600s. England, early 17th century. Embroidery; silk and silver filé on linen ground; overall: 11.5 x 12 cm (4 1/2 x 4 3/4 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Gift of The Textile Arts Club, 1946.416
collection
Textiles
citations
citation
Wardwell, Anne E. <em>Material Matters: Fifty Years of Gifts from the Textile Arts Club, 1934-1984</em>: [Exhibition] 21 November-30 December 1984, the Cleveland Museum of Art. Cleveland: The Museum, 1984.
page_number
p. 31
creditline
Gift of The Textile Arts Club
updatedAt
2026-05-29 06:27:13.132000
sourceId
124968
dept
Textiles
coll
Textiles
med
embroidery; silk and silver filé on linen ground
thumbnail_url
image_url
Single page context
seq
1
pageIndex
0
type
photo
mediaId
19a73d3af2ed7b58