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Originally Processed With FOIA(s): FOIA Number: S S FOIA MARKER This is not a textual record. This is used as an administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential Library Staff. Record Group/Collection: George H.W. Bush Presidential Records Collection/Office of Origin: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File Backup Files Subseries: Chron File, 1989-1993 OA/ID Number: 13672 Folder ID Number: 13672-006 Folder Title: Wyoming Environmental Address 6/13/89 [OA 6264] [2] Stack: Row: Section: Shelf: Position: G 26 19 1 6 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DATE: June 7, 1989 TIME: 1:25 pm, TO: Bob Simon FROM: Juhn Daugherty SUBJECT: Risearch material NUMBER OF PAGES TO FOLLOW: 10 SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS: Fax to White House (202) 456-6218 SHOULD RETRANSMISSION BE NECESSARY: PLEASE CALL FTS 328-4234 OR 307-733-2880, EXT. 234 TO REPLY BY TELEFAX: CALL FTS 328-4209 OR 307-733-2880, EXT 209 Following the FRONTIER with F. Jay Haynes PIONEER PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE OLD WEST Freeman Tilden E-3 Cze New York / Alfred S. Knopf 1964 VI President Arthur in Yellowstone Cgo OME YEARS AGO a former ranger at Yellowstone National Park who had been transferred to Washington was browsing in a secondhand bookstore, hoping to turn up some volume concerning the great preserve where he had begun his career. This was his lucky day. On a table, with a gathering of dust upon it, was a neatly bound portfolio of photographs; as he opened it, the first picture he saw was unmistakably. a scene at Yellowstone. He turned to the blank leaf at the front. On it was written, in a bold hand: To his good friend, Gen. Phil Sheridan, from F. Jay Haynes The ex-ranger's first thought was that he had stumbled upon a prize quite beyond his financial means. When he learned that $3.50 would buy the portfolio, he seized it with a trembling hand and fled before the dealer could change his mind. Later he came to feel that perhaps he was selfish to keep the trophy, that it belonged in the Bozeman museum of Jack Haynes memorabilia. And there he sent it. It is a delightful memento of President Chester A. Arthur's holiday visit to Vellowstone in the summer (115) FOLLOWING THE FRONTIER of 1883, and it marks a step in the career of the young Fargo photog- W rapher which in later years he looked back on with pardonable pride. in the For, with the exception of the members of the presidential party, a decid civilian chief packer, and some Indian guides, Professor Haynes was the When only non-military man in the "expedition," which was arranged with the Burns X utmost precision by the Lieutenant General of the United States Army. jaunty Unimaginable, these days, would be such a vacation trip for a President. and re No newspaper correspondents were permitted to accompany the ex- An pedition. For several weeks all that the public knew of the movements under or the state of health of their chief came from brief messages sent to the machi Associated Press by Colonel James F. Gregory, the aide-de-camp, after many President Arthur had himself released them. The big newspapers through- of his out the country were furious about this snub. Several, whether in revenge ist, T or in competitive ardor, manufactured "dispatches from our own cor- ability respondent with the President," but these stories were figments of the compt 8 imagination; the last official message sent by Colonel Gregory to the As- gener: sociated Press was a shaft of sarcasm at the expense of the fakers. Gregory No remarked that the impostors were so clumsy and ignorant that the alleged some : correspondents "had themselves traveling in one day over distances that United our expedition hardly made in five." President Arthur had had some pettifo rather rough treatment at the hands of the newspapers, and as he had It V no intention of running for office again, he probably derived a touch of Yellov satisfaction from the sufferings of the "fourth estate." Vest Perhaps it was one of these newspapermen who worked off his in- Georg dignation in the form of a little pamphlet signed with a nom de plume worke and containing pretty sour doggerel verse ridiculing the President's trip. areas ir The rare-book section of the Library of Congress has one of the few comme extant copies. in Cor "The book of the trip," illustrated with photographs by F. Jay Haynes, Senato was published by the Government Printing Office as "A Journey Yellow Through the Yellowstone National Park and Northwestern Wyoming." floor at The edition was so limited that few have ever seen it. The Library of "why Congress has no copy, but it does have a microfilm of it, made at Yale culture University. The text is readable, but the Haynes photographs, many of curse o which were especially fine, appear as hardly better than a blur. 'Money are helo (116) Along the Ramparts of the Tetons THE SAGA OF JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING By Robert B. Betts COLORADO ASSOCIATED UNIVERSITY PRESS BOULDER COLORADO 14 The Bottle Trail In May of 1883, when President Chester A. Arthur went to New York to dedicate the Brooklyn Bridge, it was noticed that his com- plexion was sallow and his usual vigor was missing. Evidently, the President needed a vacation, but where in 1883 could a president who liked to fish and was not averse to a drink or two go to escape both the pressures of his office and the hounding of reporters, who at the time were giving his administration a rather rough going over? The answer is that any number of private resorts in the East probably would have filled the bill nicely, which is why the vacation President Arthur chose to take was SO surprising. He and a select group of nationally prominent men traveled two thousand miles to camp and fish in a remote and uninhabited wilderness, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone Park. And not only did they do so, but they "roughed it" in high style, with a long pack train of horses and mules carrying several tons of supplies, including what sub- sequently was alleged to be an inordinately large amount of whis- key. In early August, when the presidential party detrained at Green River, Wyoming, among the many dignitaries who stepped off were Lieutenant General Philip Sheridan, of Civil War fame: Sec- retary of War Robert Lincoln, Abraham Lincoln's son: and Senator George Vest of Missouri, a good friend of Yellowstone Park who once rose on the Senate floor to rebut a fellow senator's anti- Yellowstone argument that the government had no right being in "show business." At the station to meet them was Troop G of the 5th Cavalry, some seventy-five well-armed mounted men who would provide an escort thought to be desirable in light of Custer's massacre at the Little Bighorn less than a hundred and fifty miles from Yellowstone just seven years earlier. Also at Green River were two Chicago newspaper reporters to whom General Sheridan, in his typically blunt way, made known the policy decided upon re- garding press coverage of the junket. He flatly told them that if they followed the President any farther he would have them ar- rested and thrown in jail. 139 140 ALONG THE RAMPARTS OF THE TETONS In what amounted to a total blackout of the press, no corre- spondent of any kind was permitted to accompany the outing. In- stead, official news releases were written by Lieutenant Colonel Michael Sheridan, the general's nephew, and by Licutenant Col- onel James Gregory, then sent to the outside world by a relay system of mounted couriers stationed every twenty miles along the route. Although newspapers across the country were outraged at this high-handed form of censorship, it was not relaxed, so some of the more enterprising editors decided that if their reporters could not cover the news for themselves, they could at least manufacture it. Consequently, a number of wholly fabricated stories were writ- ten which are of no help when one tries to find out what really happened when the President and his friends went packing in the Rocky Mountains. Nor do the two colonels' official releases provide much illumination. Oblivious of their rare opportunity to report what may have been the most unusual vacation ever taken by any American president while still in office, their stilted, West Point prose was devoted almost exclusively to descriptions of the scenery and the number of fish caught. The first stop before jumping off into the wilderness was Fort Washakie, Wyoming, a reservation for the Shoshoni and Arapahoe tribes. As the wagons carrying the vacationers approached the res- ervation, Indians rode out in large numbers to greet the Great White Father and "dashed around the President's party most gaud- ily and fantastically arrayed, displaying their skill in horsemanship and gratifying their curiosity."2 The next day, the Indians enter- tained their distinguished guests by having several hundred braves astride war ponies charge across a plain to where the President and his group stood, at the last moment reining up in a cloud of dust. Then the chiefs of the two tribes dismounted and stepped forward to be introduced-Coal Black of the Arapahoes and none other than Nick Wilson's brother by adoption, Washakie of the Shoshonis, the great old chief in whose honor the fort had been named. Follow- ing this, the Indians and the cavalry escort staged a spectacle which was wildly incongruous, at the very least, especially since the mem- ory of Custer was still fresh in everyone's mind. Mounting their horses, they engaged in a spirited sham battle, complete with war whoops, bugle calls and the firing of rifles and revolvers, all of which were fortunately loaded with blanks. On the morning of August 9, the pack train started along a route that would take it west into the Wind River Range, across the Con- tinental Divide, down along the Gros Ventre River into Jackson THE BOTTLE TRAIL 141 Many packers and pack animals were needed to transport supplies for President Arthur's "cavalcade" through the wilderness. F. Jay Haynes photo, Haynes Foundation. Hole. then north into and through Yellowstone Park, a journey of about three hundred and fifty miles. Later described by an author- ity on the West as "one of the most complete pack trains ever organized in this or any other country," the column on the march was most imposing, with Indian guides riding ahead, the cavalry troop fore and aft of the presidential party and, bringing up the rear, one hundred and seventy-five pack horses and mules all piled high with provisions and equipment.³ Once the caravan plunged into the mountains, a curtain descended through which it is now impossible to see, but, at least according to one account, President Arthur and his friends went on a spree. Other than Lieutenant Colonel Sheridan's and Lieutenant Col- onel Gregory's sterile dispatches, the only document purporting to give a glimpse of what went on is a burlesque in doggerel verse entitled The Rajah, or the Great Sporting Excursion of 1883, published the following year and written by someone who used the pseudonym "Unc Dunkam." Who "Unc Dunkam" was is unknown, although he seems to have been either a member of the party or a newsman who obtained his information after the trip, perhaps 142 ALONG THE RAMPARTS OF THE TETONS from some of the soldiers and packers who went along. Highly exaggerated for dramatic effect, the poem is certainly no Rock of Gibraltar as a reliable source of history, but here and there, particu- larly in his footnotes, "Unc Dunkam" mentions small details and characteristics of the various personages that add a touch of credi- bility. Whether history or not, his version has become part of the word-of-mouth lore of Jackson Hole, and it does add spice to what is otherwise only the colonels' prosaic travelogue. The size and opulence of the President's caravan inspired "Unc Dunkam" to use a rajah as the central symbol of his parody, in one verse of which he wrote that three hundred mules were "All laden with the choicest wine."⁴ Surely there were not three hundred mules, and surely they were not laden with wine, but it appears that enough bottles of what was more likely rye or bourbon were taken along to stock a special tent set aside as a bar. "Unc Dunkam" described it in a footnote as "located in the center of the camp, and generously supplied with all kinds of "liquid refreshments,' except 'water' These refreshments were to be had 'without money.' and simply for the asking, at any time of the day or night." Thus, according to the anonymous poet, did the illustrious campers blaze a trail with "broken bottles, Every mile, of their wilderness way. But "Unc Dunkam" most certainly stretched a point. While some party- ing undoubtedly took place, Chester A. Arthur and his friends would never have made it to Yellowstone if that much alcohol had been imbibed. Long before then, they would have fallen off their horses and broken their necks, or would have fallen into the streams they fished and drowned. As might be expected of an ardent fisherman who was camping along some of the finest trout waters in North America, the Presi- dent enjoyed himself thoroughly, although it inust be said he some- times resorted to the less than sportsmanlike use of gang hooks to catch more than one fish at a time. According to an official release, "At one cast the President landed three trout, weighing in the aggregate four and one-quarter pounds, and at each of some six other casts took two fine specimens."7 On another occasion, the President was reported to have reeled in "thirty-five fish, weighing forty-five pounds" in just a few hours.8 Even for his time, long before the concept of conservation had to any extent entered the American conscience, Arthur's catches were embarrassingly large, which probably explains why he refused to let the party's official photographer, F. Jay Haynes, take any pictures of him while he was fishing. ¹44 ALONG THE RAMPARTS OF THE TETONS The scenic highlight of the trip was Jackson Hole and the Te- tons, described at length by the official chroniclers. As the pack train came out of the canyon of the Gros Ventre River into Jackson Hole, "there suddenly burst upon our view a scene as grand and majestic as we had ever witnessed Along the whole westerly edge of this valley, with no intervening foothills to obstruct the view, towered the magnificent Teton Mountains, their snowy summits piercing the air 8,000 feet above the spot where we stood in reverent admiration, and 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. It was the voice of every member of the party that this sight alone would have fully repaid all the toils and perils of the march. The use of the word "perils" is puzzling, because up to this point not one had been reported. On the other hand, "Unc Dunkam" wrote that later, while in Jackson Hole, the President came close to losing his scalp when Indians staged a war dance in his honor. If he is to be believed, one of the Indians became so carried away by the dance. or by the contents of one of the bottles in the bar tent, he Swung high in air His warclub, dire and dread, And would have whack'd Great Chester on the head! 10 According to the poem, a member of the party pulled a gun and prevented the Indian from carrying out what surely would have been the most bizarre assault ever made on the person of any president of the United States. Also, according to the poem, late one night some of the thirsty packers invaded the bar tent and became SO intoxicated they began shooting at imaginary hostile Indians, which by the light of morning turned out to be several dead mules. But other than these two incidents, if anything even remotely resembling them did occur. the entire journey went off without mishap. While in Jackson Hole, three camps were made: the first in the Gros Ventre River Canyon near where the Sheep Mountain land- slide would later take place, the second along the Gros Ventre River south of Blacktail Butte and the third along the Snake River just below the fork of the Buffalo River. The cavalcade then moved up to Yellowstone, where more fishing was done and where Presi- dent Arther encountered the first member of the fourth estate he had seen since the two Chicago reporters at Green River. Despite General Sheridan's expressed dislike of journalists, this corre- THE BOTTLE TRAIL 145 Indians staging a war dance for President Arthur and his companions. F. Jay Haynes photo. Haynes Foundation. spondent of the London Times was not thrown in jail, but probably only because he was in the company of some wealthy and titled Europeans who were on a sightseeing tour of the West. The Eng- lishman was much more awed by Arthur than the dancing Indian in Jackson Hole was reported to have been, writing that "no one would have supposed that the tall, robust man in blouse and white felt hat, with checked shirt and sunburnt face, who shook us hear- tily by the hand and talked freely to anyone who chose to approach him, was the head of the nation and the lineal descendant in office of the most dignified and punctilious of rulers, George Washington"-which may have been the only time the twenty-first president of the United States and the first have been compared in any way whatever. 11 On September 1, 1883, President Arthur boarded a Northern Pacific train at Cinnabar, Montana, and started back to Washington to resume the duties of his office. As far as the records go, he showed no signs of a hangover. A HEALTHY AMERICA George Bush has called for stricter federal enforcement of illegal ocean dumping. He calls the problem of dangerous medical waste washing up on our beaches a "national disgrace." He will direct the EPA, Coast Guard and FBI to join forces with state authorities to track down illegal dumpers. George Bush will ban all ocean dumping of sewage sludge by 1991. George Bush will instruct EPA to increase its work in developing land-based alternatives for sewage sludge disposal. He's a leader, not a talker, and he will get results. George Bush proposes restoring cuts Congress made in our budget for the Coast Guard so they can more effectively prevent illegal ocean dumping. *** ENVIRONMENTAL POLICY STATEMENT Erie Metropark, Michigan August 31, 1988 I am here today to talk about building a better America. I am here to make a case I feel very strongly about -- and that is the case for a cleaner environment. It is a case based not only on our own health and safety, and not only on the obligation we have to future generations. It is based on the knowledge that successful economic development and environmental protection go hand in hand. You cannot have one without the other. This summer has been full of warnings about the condition of our environment. Medical waste has washed up not only on our ocean beaches, but on the shores of this very lake over in Cleveland. Ozone levels and accompanying respiratory problems have been frighteningly high. Even the exceptionally hot weather if only symbolically -- has been seen as a portent of things to come. 1988 is the year the earth spoke back. Our land, water, and soil support a remarkable range of human activities; but they can only take so much. We must remember to treat them not as a given, but as a gift. I am an environmentalist: always have been, from my earliest days as a Congressman, when I first chaired a' House Task Force on Earth Resources and population. And I always will be, to my last days as President of this great and beautiful country. That's not inconsistent with being a businessman; nor is it with being a conservative. In fact, it is an essential part of the thinking that should guide either one. -- 245 Wapiti wilderness - Mardy & Olans Murie Thewonderophe world he beaury and The M the power,the shapes.of things, their As Id colours, lights,and shades; these saw. ences-the the car stud Look ye also while life lasts. kindness th the mounta The plaque over the mantel at the Murie ranch in Moose Olaus Murie snowshoeing (1947) Margaret Murie in the Wapiti summer range State Senate President John F. Turner of Wyoming will be nominated by the President to be Director of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. His Triangle X Ranch is just a few miles from the speech site. He served as tour guide for the Bushes on the 1987 trip to the Tetons; sang and played guitar during an evening barbecue. He runs a guest ranch and wilderness guide service in the Jackson Hole area. Lots of pro-environment accomplishments. Last year he won the "Friend of the Trout" award from the Jackson Hole Trout Unlimited. THE WHITE HOUSE WASHINGTON 3.17 MEMORANDUM FOR JANE DANNENHAUER CAROLYN GAY KATJA BULLOCK FROM: REBECCA ARMENDARIZ 6570 OFFICE OF PRESIDENTIAL PERSONNEL Room 145, X6570 Please start appropriate clearance for the following prospective nominee and return clearance/comments to room 145 OEOB. Thank you. John FREElANd TURNER TRIANGLE X RANCH MOOSE, Wyoming 83012 Date of Birth 3/3/42 Place of Birth JACKSON, alyoning Who is under serious consideration for appointment as: DIRECTOR as Fish and Wildlife SERVICE, Department of INTERIOR Associate Director MARtha Goodwin (x7606) Presidential Approval Security Package sent 3/16/89 Counsel clearance Legislative clearance Withdrawal/Redaction Sheet (George Bush Library) Document No. Subject/Title of Document Date Restriction Class. and Type 01. Resume Re: John Freeland Turner. (1 pp.) 03/14/89 P-6, (b)(6) Collection: Record Group: Bush Presidential Records Office: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File, Backup Subseries: WHORM Cat.: File Location: Wyoming Environmental Address 6/13/89 [2] Date Closed: 9/30/2004 OA/ID Number: 06264 FOIA/SYS Case #: Re-review Case #: 2004-2265-S P-2/P-5 Review Case #: MR Case #: Appeal Case #: MR Disposition: Appeal Disposition: Disposition Date: Disposition Date: RESTRICTION CODES Presidential Records Act - [44 U.S.C. 2204(a)] Freedom of Information Act - [5 U.S.C. 552(b)] P-1 National Security Classified Information [(a)(1) of the PRA] (b)(1) National security classified information [(b)(1) of the FOIA] P-2 Relating to the appointment to Federal office [(a)(2) of the PRA] (b)(2) Release would disclose internal personnel rules and practices of an P-3 Release would violate a Federal statute [(a)(3) of the PRA] agency [(b)(2) of the FOIA] P-4 Release would disclose trade secrets or confidential commercial or (b)(3) Release would violate a Federal statute [(b)(3) of the FOIA] financial information [(a)(4) of the PRA] (b)(4) Release would disclose trade secrets or confidential or financial P-5 Release would disclose confidential advise between the President information [(b)(4) of the FOIA] and his advisors, or between such advisors [a)(5) of the PRA] (b)(6) Release would constitute a clearly unwarranted invasion of P-6 Release would constitute a clearly unwarranted invasion of personal privacy [(b)(6) of the FOIA] personal privacy [(a)(6) of the PRA] (b)(7) Release would disclose information compiled for law enforcement purposes [(b)(7) of the FOIA] C. Closed in accordance with restrictions contained in donor's deed of (b)(8) Release would disclose information concerning the regulation of gift. financial institutions [(b)(8) of the FOIA] (b)(9) Release would disclose geological or geophysical information Withdrawal/Redaction Sheet (George Bush Library) Document No. Subject/Title of Document Date Restriction Class. and Type 02. Resume Re: John F. Turner. (1 pp.) n.d. P-6, (b)(6) Collection: Record Group: Bush Presidential Records Office: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File, Backup Subseries: WHORM Cat.: File Location: Wyoming Environmental Address 6/13/89 [2] Date Closed: 9/30/2004 OA/ID Number: 06264 FOIA/SYS Case #: Re-review Case #: 2004-2265-S P-2/P-5 Review Case #: MR Case #: Appeal Case #: MR Disposition: Appeal Disposition: Disposition Date: Disposition Date: RESTRICTION CODES Presidential Records Act - [44 U.S.C. 2204(a)] Freedom of Information Act - [5 U.S.C. 552(b)] P-1 National Security Classified Information [(a)(1) of the PRA] (b)(1) National security classified information [(b)(1) of the FOIA] P-2 Relating to the appointment to Federal office [(a)(2) of the PRA] (b)(2) Release would disclose internal personnel rules and practices of an P-3 Release would violate a Federal statute [(a)(3) of the PRA] agency [(b)(2) of the FOIA] P-4 Release would disclose trade secrets or confidential commercial or (b)(3) Release would violate a Federal statute [(b)(3) of the FOIA] financial information [(a)(4) of the PRA] (b)(4) Release would disclose trade secrets or confidential or financial P-5 Release would disclose confidential advise between the President information [(b)(4) of the FOIA] and his advisors, or between such advisors [a)(5) of the PRA] (b)(6) Release would constitute a clearly unwarranted invasion of P-6 Release would constitute a clearly unwarranted invasion of personal privacy [(b)(6) of the FOIA] personal privacy [(a)(6) of the PRA] (b)(7) Release would disclose information compiled for law enforcement purposes [(b)(7) of the FOIA] C. Closed in accordance with restrictions contained in donor's deed of (b)(8) Release would disclose information concerning the regulation of gift. financial institutions [(b)(8) of the FOIA] (b)(9) Release would disclose geological or geophysical information THE WHITE HOUSE WASHINGTON Prepared By: Paula Hobson DATE: 3/14/89 NAME: John Freeland Turner NAME & STATE: John F. Turner of Wyoming POSITION: Director, US Fish and Wildlife Service, Department of the Interior TYPE: PAS: X PA: SES: FT: X PT: TERM: POP VICE: Fred M. Dunkle CURRENT HOME ADDRESS: SEX: M DOB: 3/3/42 Triangle X Ranch Moose, Wyoming 83012 BIRTHPLACE: Jackson, Wyoming PARTY: Republican RESIDENCE PHONE: LEGAL VOTING RESIDENCE: (City, State) Teton, Wyoming CURRENT POSITION & ADDRESS: Citizen State Senator SSAN: Wyoming State Capitol Cheyenne, Wyoming 82002 RACE: Caucasian WORK PHONE: (307) 733-5500 ETHNIC HERITAGE: Spanish, English, Germar PREVIOUS POSITION HELD: FAMILY: Rancher SPOUSE: Mary Kay Triangle X Ranch CHILDREN: 3 EDUCATION: MILITARY SERVICE: University of Michigan, MS Wildlife Ecology NONE University of Notre Dame, BS Biology 1964 AWARDS: NONE PREVIOUS PRESIDENTIAL APPOINTMENTS: NONE President approved: Security Package Sent: JMG Counsel Clearance: OLA Clearance: JOHN F. TURNER Triangle X Ranch Moose, Wyo. 83012 Business (307) 733-5500 Home BUSINESS Partner in 3rd generation family busness in Jackson Hole, Wyo.; Guest Ranch, Wilderness Pack Trips, River Float Trips, Big Game Hunting, Snow- mobiling & cross-country skiing. Bank of Jackson Hole. Chairman of Board of Directors '87-'88, member of board '86-'87. LEADERSHIP President. Wyo. State Senate Jan. '87 - Jan 10, '89. Senate Majority Floor Leader. Wyo. State Senate. '85-'87 Vice-President. Wyo. State Senate '83-'85 Caucus Chairman. Senate Republicans. '85-87 Acting Governor. Wyoming. (On several occasions when Governor absent from state. '87 & '88. COMMITTEES - FEDERAL AFFAIRS National Wetlands Policy Forum. Member. Development and adoption of a national strategy to protect our nation's wetland resources. Only state legislator or intermountain area representative participating. '87-'88 Assisted with regional public hearing. Seattle, Wash. May '88. National Park System Advisory Board. 12 member board to advise Secretary of Interior on National Park Service, National Historic Landmarks. '83-'87. Vice Chairman of Board. '87. Chairman - Wildlife Subcommittee of National Park System Advisory Board. '85-'86. Pride-In-America Campaign. Advisory Task Force to Secretary of Interior. 85 & ' 86 Small Business Administration. State Advisory Board '85-'87. Hovenweep Task Force. Member of 3 member group requested by NPS Director to investigate better means to protect Anasazi Indian resources & get better cooperation of federal agencies. '86 State BLM Advisory Board. Member & Vice-Chairman. '75-'77. 2 COMMITTEES - STATE Senate Minerals, Business & Economic Development. Chairman '89 - Committee Considers all business and environmental legislation. Joint Legislative Management Audit Committee . Chairman. '87-'89. Conducts major audits and sunset reviews of agencies in executive branch. Legislative Management Council. Responsible for fulltime legislative staff, approval '85-'89. of committee activities, contracts, and overall leg. operation. Member Senate Rules Committee. Chairman '87-89. Senate Education, Health & Welfare Committee. Chairman '81-'83. Member '77 - '83, '89- Senate '77-'83. Travel, Recreation, & Wildlife Committee. Chairman '77-'81, member Joint Interim Travel, Recreation & Wildlife Committee. Chairman '77 -'81 Select Committee on School Finance. Member '80-'83. Specially convened to propose and implement constitutionally and politically acceptable method for funding K-12 public schools. Prominent contributor to revolutionary new system. Senate Agricultural, Water & Public Land Committee. Member '79-'83. Joint Agricultural Subcommittee. Chairman '82-'83. Called to review and propose changes to procedure and laws for sale of state lands. Senate Judiciary Committee. Member '75-'76. Wyo. Health Systems Agency '75-'77 Governor's Commission on Energy Conservation, Member '75-'77 Wyo. Youth Council '75-'77 Member Fort Union Coal Task Force '76 State Stream Feasibility Study Committee Secretary '73-'74 Only member of state house, to survey streams a plan a scenic & recreational preservation plan. Legislative-Executive Commission on Re-organization of State Government. Member, '76-'77. House Revenue Commitee, Member '73-'75 House Committee on Elections, Corporations, and Political Subdivisions. '73-'75 House Travel, Recreation & Wildlife Committee, Member '71-'73 House Labor & Federal Relations Committee, Member '71-'73 3 COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT & SERVICE Atlantic Exchange Program, Member of Wyo. Advisory Committee, '87-'88. Business exchange program between Netherlands & United States, Financed by mostly private sector. Expanding to Japan. Governor's State Prayer Breakfast. Cofounder of event and member of planning committee. '87-'89 Schweiring Scholarship Fund, University of Wyoming. Co-founder of program and fund raiser for Art College, Member of Selection Committee. '87-'89. Teton Science School. Ex officio Board Member for over a decade to present. Environmental Education & Research Center in Grand Teton National Park. Murie Collection Committee. Chairman. Review and propose long term protection and utilization program for unique skin, track and skull collection of Olaus & Adolph Murie. '86 - '87 Priority & Review Committee, Univ. of Wyoming. Member '86-'88. Selects research projects and authorizes funds for research to help economic development. Pride in Jackson Hole. Co-Chairman. '85. Started community program to improve public and private resources throughout community to improve quality of life for citizens and enrich visitor experiences. Multiple projects & organization Governing Board for C-V Ranch. Member of Board. Successfully built residential facility for severely retarded and handicapped youngsters. 5 years. Wyo. Centennial. Selection committee for best traveling exhibits. '88 Public Lands Institute. '77-78. Member Wyo. State Winter Fair. Chairman. of Judges selecting state queen. '78 International Business Symposium. Univ of Wyo. Forum member in shaping role for university in global community. '88 Legislative Prayer Breakfasts. Cofounder. Weekly programs for over decade to present. Wyo. Youth Council. Chairman for Teton Co.. '75-'76 Goodwill Industries. Member of Board of Governors. Work program for rehabilitation and improvement for disabled adults. '73-'74. Wyoming Waterfowl Trust. Advisory Board Member '87-'88 Yellowstone Teton Travel Association. Charter member of regional travel promotion effort. 4 AWARDS & RECOGNITIONS - "Friend of the Trout" Highest annual award by Jackson Hole Trout Unlimited. Presented by James Watt. '88 Participant in Atlantic Exchange. Selected for business exchange program to the Netherlands. '87. Conservationist Legislator of 1987 Award. Wyo. Outdoor Council for "leader- ship on conservation issues. State Award for "Outstanding & Dedicated Services" to psychological services in Wyoming. '87. from Wyo. Psy. Assoc. "Teton County Citizen of the Year" Award, presented by Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce. '85 Pride in America National Award - Presidential recognition for Pride in Jackson Hole effort. Presented in Wash. D. C. '86. Bob Duncan Award. Highest state award for assistance to substance abuse programs around Wyo. '85. Presented by Human Service Organizations. Special Achievement Award. National Conservation Award from National Wildlife Federation, Presented in Washington, D. C. '85. "Sportsman of the Year" Award. Presented by Jackson Hole Ducks Unlimited '82 "One of the State Senate's Most Effective Senators" Press rating '81 & '83 Special Recognition Award for "Outstanding Contribution to Wildlife Resources of Wyoming." Wyo. Chapter of Wildlife Society. '81 Conservationist Legislator of the Year Award, Presented by Wyo. Wildlife Federation '80. Special Recognition for "significant contributions to Wyo. Health Systems Agency. From Governor '82 Outstanding Young Man of America Award. '78. From National Jaycees. Nominated by U. S. Sen. Wallop. Outstanding Freshman Legislator. House of Representative. '71. Press rating. EDUCATION M.S. Wildlife Ecology. Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Mich '70 Partial requirements for Ph.D. Completed. Foreign Studies Program. Assistant Director for Univ. of Notre Dame. Innsbruck, Austria '64 & '65. B.S. Biology. University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame, Ind. '64 One year graduate work in Zoology. Univ. of Utah, Salt Lake City, Ut. 65/66 5 PUBLICATIONS "Report from Republic of China". Analysis of economic opportunities and problems for Wyoming and its resources of coal, soda ash, uranium and tourism. 19 pages. Dec. 88 Hovenweep Report. Drafted report submitted to NPS Director & Secretary of Interior on analysis of protection efforts for Anasazi Indian Resources. Recommendations for Interior. '86 "Great Bears in Our Parks" drafted report with analysis and recoomendations for managing grizzly bears in Yellowstone ecosystem. Report adopted by National Park System Advisory Board and submitted to NPS & Sec't. of Interior '8' The Magnificent Bald Eagle, America's National Bird. Script and photos for book published by Random House. Closeup look at natural history of our national bird. "Can There Be Freedom for America's Eagles?" Passages Magazine. Article & Photos. May '74. Vol 5. No. 5 "Seasons in High Country" Slide show and presentation about diversity of wildlife complex in northwestern Wyoming through 4 seasons of the year. '70- "Delights & Dilemmas of Dude Ranching". Wyo. Wildlife. July '72 "Eagles Today" Wyo. Wildlife. Photos. June '73 "Eagles, Vanishing Americas". Sierra Club Bulletin. Article & photos. Oct/ Nov. '71 "Their Threatened Reign, The American Eagle & American Osprey." Teton Magazine. Articles & Photos. summer/fall 1970 "Wildlife - a fascinating heritage" Photo outlay & scrip honoring Wyo. wildlife. Jackson Hole News, 2 pp. 1971 Ecology - a WILD idea" 4 PP. script & photos. Jackson Hole News. Mar 23, 1972 RESEARCH Bald Eagles. Conducted first comprehensive study of active nests in Yellowstone and Grand Teton region. Studied productivity, nesting behavior, habitat, diet, intra- & interspecific relations. 1960's Bald Eagle. First comprehensive survey and coverage of populations, nesting sites, wintering areas, migration habitats, mortality sources in 8 inter- mountain states. late 1960's. Ospreys- conducted first monitoring of over 30 active nests in Yellowstone & Grand Teton region. 3 year study of productivity. Failed eggs analyzed for toxic elements. late 1960's. Birds of Prey. Raptor survey of Superior Township, Ann Arbor, Mich. Followup of Craighead research for species makeup. 2 decades of change. '68-'69 6 RESEARCH CONTINUED Grizzlies - two years of intense review of managment practices in Yellow- stone National Park as Chairman of Wildlife Subcommittee of National Park System Advisory Board. '84 - .'85 Anasazi Indian Resources - In Hovenweep, Mesa Verde, and Four Corners region, on site analysis of overall protection, interpretation, and cooperation between federal, state and local agencies. Led to drafting report to NPS Director & Sec't. of Interior. '86. POLITICAL Affiliation: Republican Bush Campaign. As President of Wyoming Senate, spoke out at specifically called press conference to publicly support Bush candidacy in Primary at time Wyo. seem to be swinging strongly for Dole. Aired on state TV & in statewide newspapers. Joined Wyo. State Legislators for Bush. Bush Rally - With Neal Bush, helped host Bush hospitality session in Jackson Hole during Primary. Bush Visits to Wyoming - Cohosted Vice President & Mrs. Bush during visit to our State Capitol, Also assisted in welcoming Bushs to Grand Teton National Park, Helped guide Vice President fishing party on Snake River, even sang and played guitar at small Bush bareque on shores of Jackson Lake. Governor's Race. State Co-Chairman for Republican Gubernatorial Candidate, Warren Morton. '82 President Reagan - Member of special republican gathering to welcome visit to Cheyenne. Mar. '82 Years of Legislative Service - 4 yrs, State House; 14 yrs, State Senate. Representing diverse constituency of oil & gas, cattle ranching, dairy farmers, timbering, small business, tourism, etc. Washington Delegation. Actively involved in all election and re-election efforts of Republican U.S. Senators & Congressman. Wallop Senate Drive Hosted fund raiser kickoffs - '76, '82, & '88. County Finance Chairman '82, Teton Co. Wallop Task Force. '88. President Ford. Member of welcoming delegation for visit of Gerald R. Ford to Yellowstone National Park, Aug. 29, '76. ORGANIZATIONS Western River Guides Association Wyoming Outfitters & Guides Assoc. ROTARY National Tour Association 7 INVOLVEMENT WITH FEDERAL ISSUES National Park Gateway - Attempting to protect major entrance corridor to Grand Teton & Yellowstone National Parks, involved in meetings with Washington delegation, landowners, and National Forest Service officials '88 Snake River Minimum Flows - Innitiative with Secretary of Interior Hodel, Bureau of Reclamation officials, and Wyo. State Engineer to work out agree- ment for better winter flows to protect native cutthroat fisheries and riparian values in Grand Teton National Park. '87 & '88. National Elk Refuge - Instrumental in arranging cooperative feeding agreement between Fish & Wildlife Service (Ass't Sec't. Ray Arnett) & Game & Fish Dept. of Wyoming '84 Jackson Lake Dam Rehabilitation. In meetings with NPS Director, assured that NPS would give high priority to research Indian resources on shoreline '84. Worked out later agreement making Univ of Wyo. a partner in research effort '85-'88. Moose Management - Speaker at 21st North American Moose Conference '85. Forest Service Management, Repeat involvement over two decades in providing input on specifics of managing Bridger Teton National Forest. Involved in numerous meetings & hearings, Multiple statements. Wyo. Wilderness Legislation. On several ocasions, provided specific information and indepth proposals to Wyo. delegation. Provided overview of wildlife values and critical habitat with detailed maps to Congressional Field Hearing. Casper, Apr. '82. Wyo. Roadless Resource Area. Proposed as non-wilderness multiple use area to protect grazing, watershed, wildlife & recreational vales in Upper Green River Basin, Northwestern Wyoming. Submitted to Congress. '82. Scenic Land Preservation Proposals - Worked closely with U. S. Senator Wallop on development and presentation of two federal proposals to protect scenic and agricultural vales on private lands. '82. Forest Service Budget. Presented to some members of Congress, a review of Bridger Teton National Forest expenditures on management of different uses versus revenues to federal treasury. '84. MX MIssles. Received agreement from Sec't of Defense Weinberger to conduct public hearings around state on impact of MX placement in Wyoming. '83 Little Granite Well Site - Arranged for Assist. Sec't. Carruthers to visit controversial site and visit with local citizens. '82-'83. Snowmobiling. Worked with NPS Director and congressional delegation in compromise solution to continue snowmobiling in Pothole region of Grand Teton National Park. '79 8 INVOLVEMENT WITH FEDERAL ISSUES CONTINUED Jackson Hole Scenic Area Proposal. On behalf of local ranchers, testimony to congressional hearing. June '77. Range Improvements. Persuaded Director of BLM in Washington, D. C. and Natural Resource Defense Fund to agree to lift '75 moratorium on range improvements projects on millions of acres of public grazing lands to assist ranchers and farmers. Obtained some clarifications of suit. '75 Snake River Fisheries. Assisted in establishing harvest limit agreement for cutthroat in Grand Teton between State of Wyoming & National Park Service. '72 Mine Reclamation. Testimony to House Interior & Insular Affairs Comm. urging better protection for surface land owner in having consent provisions regarding disruption of surface with mining. Apr. '72. Price Controls on Beef. Statement to Sec't. of Agricultural Butz opposing any controls on beef meat products. Sec't. replies that consideration of any controls dropped. '72. Shoshonne National Forest. Congressional testimony on long term management strategy for critical Du Noir Drainage area. '78. Testimony on oil & gas leasing in Washakie Wilderness Area. '82 Yellowstone Centennial. Prompted National Park Service to work closer with local communities in planning events. '71. Addressed International Conference '72. Eagles. Extensive involvement in state and national arenas as a result of tragic killing in West by agricultural interests. Urged Dept. of Interior to strengthen safeguards. '70. Proposed to Congress establish prohibitions on use of certain toxic agents in predator and rodent control by private parties. '71 STATE LEGISLATIVE HIGHLIGHTS * Legislative Royalty Account. Cosponosred new saving account for mineral royalty payments to meet future needs. '85 Wyo. Business Development Certers. Helped plan and establish small business assistance outreach centers throughout the state. '86 Clean Coal. Cosponsor of state investment program to encourage research and development of new fuel products which are cleaner and more efficient. '87 21 yr old Drinking. Sponsored increase. '87 Wyo. Lean Beef Program. Cosponsor of new program conducting marketing tests and standards for branded value added meat with lean and natural values. '85-'87 Dairy Price Supports. Representing large number of producers, helped lead effort to eliminate state price setting '80 * Only those state issues which were successful. 9 STATE LEGISLATIVE HIGHLIGHTS CONTINUED Health Care Costs. Instrumental in securing authorization for Health Maintenance Organizations for group lans, & Preferred Provider Organizations. '85 Government Employee Cuts. Sponsored significant reductions in administrative personnel and budget in Health & Social Services. '84. Sponsored cuts in employees and budges in Dept. of Administration and Fiscal Control. '85 Health Care Data Authority Sponsor of data collection office to track services and health care costs. '85 Capitol Facilities Tax. Cosponsor of one of nation's first programs which allow community voters to impose additional sales tax to fund local building projects. '84. Rural School. Devised and established new finance formula to insure more equal educational opportunities for smaller rural schools. '84. State Film Office. Assisted in creation of Wyo. promotional office. '83 Agricultural Loans. Sponsored expansion of state program for ranchers & farmers. '83. Troubled Youth. Sponsor of funding for new state services. '83 Prompt Pay. Sponsor requiring state government to pay bills to private sector within specified time. '83. State Inheritance Tax. Cosponsor of repeal. '82 Water Development. Cosponsor of project to rehabilitate dam allowing additional 5,000 Acre Ft. of storage. '82. Unemployment Compensation. Sponsored tightened elegibility requirements to reduce fraud and abu se. '83 Sagebrush Rebellion. Authored guidelines for state administration of federal lands if such transferred by Congress. '80. Highway Wildlife Deaths. Cosponsored cooperative project between game & fish dept, highway dept., and private sector to reduce road kills of migrating animals. '86. State Energy Conservation Office. Found compromise to retain state office. '86 Municiple Water. Sponsored requirement for Cheyenne to develop financing plan for $60 million water project on behalf of voters. '80. Water Rights. Sponsor of measure requiring subdivisions of agricultural lands to responsibly utilize water rights and maintain ditches and systems for neighboring water users. '81 Motion Pictures. Sponsored relaxation of vehicle permitting process for motion picture equipment used temporarily in state '81. 10 STATE LEGISLATIVE HIGHLIGHTS CONTINUED. School Construction. Helped develop first state assistance program for construction for poorer school districts. '81 &'77. Tourist Promotion. Development of matching funds program for state matching grants to local communities to promote local resoruces. '80 Instream Flow. Over several years, leader in drafting and passage of program authorizing instream use of water as beneficial use under Wyo. water law. '82. Elk Feed Ground. Helped lead effort to establish new elk winter feed ground on Grey's River in Lincoln Co.. '79 Senior Citizens. Sponsored protection for abused, neglected and exploited adult. '79. Taylor Grazing Lands. Sponsored re-establishing district improvement boards, allow portion of grazing fees to be returned for range improvements. Reorganization in State Government. Prominent in reorganization of state largest agency - Dept. of Health & Social Services. '79. Liquor Law Revisions. Obtained more restaurant and retail outlets for resort communities. '79 Small Mines. Sponsored exemptions from stiff reclamation requirements for permitting small gravel operations. '76. Concurrent Jurisdiction. Sponsor of one of nation's first provisions allowing state, local and federal officials share enforcement of laws, resources and courts in addressing crime within Grand Teton National Park. '77 Independence Rock. Forged compromise between state and landowners allowing development of important state historic site along Oregon Trail. '77 Malpractice Insurance. Helped develop state underwriting pool to assist physicians and hospitals. '76. Landowner Consent. Sponsor of nation's first provision for landowners. '75 Sulfer Dioxide Emissions. A leader in establishing standards. '75 State Coal Leasing. Prompted review and revisons to state program. '76 Exotic Species. Sponsored prohibition on importation into state. '71. School Finance. Authored and cosponsored constitutional amendment providing basis for one of nation's most revolutionary school finance program. '81 Dairy Research. Prompted continuance and improvement of research and extension program in Star Valley. '79 & '80 11 STATE LEGISLATIVE HIGHLIGHTS CONTINUED Permanent Mineral Trust Fund. First initiated and sponsored concept for Wyoming major inviolate resrve. '74. Cosponsor of constitutional provision allowing oil and gas revenues to flow to fund. '80. Game & Fish laws. Major contributor in complete overhaul of extensive state game & fish laws which had not been revised since 1930's. '73 Landowners. Sponsored amendment requiring written permission to use private lands for hunting and fishing. '73. Local Revenues. Sponsor of optional county sale's tax to be authorized on renewal basis by voters. '73. Mined Land Reclamation. Prominent contributor to drafting and adoption of expanded surface mined reclamation program. '73 Abortion. Leader in prohibiting any public funding for abortions. '74 Insurance cancellation. Sponsor of restricting cancelation of auto coverage except for nonpayment of premiums, fraud or violations. Upper Green River Basin. Led fight to defeat major dams in prime agricultural and scenic valley of Sublette County. '71 PERSONAL INFORMATION. Born: March 3, 1942 Age: 46 Married. Wife: Mary Kay Children. John Francis (Tote) Age 17 Kathy Mapes Age 16 Mark Freeland Age 14 6/3/89 Los Angeles Times ide of Victory the Seams Weekend TV Environment Focus for Global Pop Concert; w Money de & Harriet quire: About Men, for Ethics, AIDS, Piano Contest on News Shows ПЛОД untry Kitchen (s) abion pector Gadget P op music fans are in for views Secretary of State James and the New York mayoral battle, y another of those benefit con- Baker, 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. :00 p.m. a.m. (4), 5:30 p.m. (50) ДЭТ cert extravaganzas today as (CNN) ed Game "News Conference" interviews "The World's Sting, Diana Ross and Elton John "West 57th" reports on Berlin Richard Fore of the California lete" (1973) Tim Con- headline a satellite global telecast and prospects for the reunification Commission on Drugs, 9:30 a.m. ) to help bring attention to the of East and West Germany, Oral (4). rs-Comedy world's environmental problems. Roberts and Jodie Foster, 10 p.m. Γ. Financier James Goldsmith ex- "The Return of "Our Common Future," a five- (2)(8). amines the U.S. economy, on by, M.D." (1984) Robert hour concert from New York, Lon- John Hiatt and Los Lobos per- "American Interests," 10 hr.) don and Brazil hosted by "Live form on "Austin City Limits," 11:30 (28) 1 Aid" creator Bob Geldof, Sigourney p.m. (28). idventure "Tony Brown's Journal" exam- Loss Weaver and Richard Gere, will be ines methods of treating AIDS, Universe broadcast in its entirety on the Arts 10:30 a.m. (28) Gourmet & Entertainment Channel at 5 p.m. SUNDAY: "Headlines on Trial" the Life "Business World" reports on and on KABC-TV Channel 7 at debates alternative medicine, 6 I McBirnie U.S. businesses that deal with the on at the Ritz Cariton 11:30 p.m. Channel 7 will also a.m. (4) Chinese government, 11 a.m. (7). an Adventure broadcast three hours of the event, "2 the Point" looks at the up- AMI Dine Out, San Diego which features performances from coming Imagen Awards, a chil- Ethics on Capitol Hill is COME the topic ng R.E.M., Midnight Oil, Herbie Han- dren's march to help clean up the on "This Week With David Brink- e Reading ne Living Planet cock and others, today at noon. environment, summer workshops ley," 11:30 a.m. (7) (10) XIII ewer Call-In (1:10) The Children's Miracle Network and courses at Plaza de la Raza and Harold Ezell of the Immigration CNBCLive Telethon, designed to raise money the American Cancer Society's hot and Naturalization Service guests ews; Sports Close-Up line, 7 a.m. (2). on "Newsmakers," 4 p.m. (2). ortraits of Power for children's hospitals around the lovie "Barnum" country, also begins today at 6 p.m. "Sunday Today" reports on the Atty. Gen. Richard Thornburgh, urt Lancaster. (2 hr.) (9) (3), 7 p.m. (8). The 21-hour Van Cliburn piano competition and Rep. John Dingell (D-Mich) and a Jolla Bicycle Race fund-raiser is hosted by Marie young adults who live at home, 7 Edward Rollins, co-chairman of cc) Nature Watch Osmond, Merlin Olsen and John a.m. (4) (36) (39) agney & Lacey the National Republican Congres- elebrity Outdoors Schneider. Secretary of Defense Richard sional Committee, discuss ethics assie-Drama Oprah Winfrey pops up tonight Cheney guests on "Newsmaker and politics on "Face the Nation," Polish Vampire at 7 on Channel 7 as host of "Just Sunday" 7:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. (1984) Eddie Deezan. 4:30 p.m. (2), 11:30 p.m. (8) Movie "The Big Between Friends," a personal look (CNN) "60 Minutes" reports on allega- 52) Kirk Douglas. at friendship. "Sunday Morning" reports on 1:30 p.m. Other programs include: tions of illegal wire taps in Cincin- the effect that AIDS has on small nati, a psychologist who claims that Point towns, the artwork of Thomas Hart a special lens helps dyslexics and a ters-Comedy Benton, race horse Sunday Silence an TODAY: Mothers and their teen- and the land conservation group Florida judge who believes or tough S age daughters appear on "Teen sentences deter violent crime, 7 Horse in Sport Nature Conservancy, 8 a.m. (2) (8). p.m. (2) (8) 27901 ne Rapide Talk," 6:30 a.m. (9) "Meet the Press" talks with Rep. y in Bible Prophecy Rep. Charles Wilson (D-Tex.) Newt Gingrich (R-Ga.) about eth- The documentary "Profits From a Dodgers and Ed Rollins of the National ics in the House of Representa- Poisons," about the harm, that ington Report of the Worlds (s) Republican Congressional Com- tives, 8:30 a.m. (4) (36) (39) pesticides are doing in the Third rican Adventure mittee guest on "Evans & Novak," "The McLaughlin Group" talks World, screens at 8 p.m. TBS ity 9:30 a.m. and 9:30 p.m. (CNN) about Jim Wright's resignation, (cable). ne Rapide "Newsmaker Saturday" inter- President Bush's NATO triumph -STEVE WEINSTEIN The Hollywood Legend W The United Nations and eeping (1:55) Future Watch Rendezvous Movie "Summer Camp The Soaps Love Will Find a Way Be It HIM e" (1985) Chuck Connors. Wish You Were Here (s) Romantic, Illicit or Otherwise Heathcliff-Cartoon Fishin' With Orlando Wilson By NANCY M. REICHARDT drunken Cass, who thought that she was 2:00 p.m. THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL: his deceased wife Kathleen until he recov- on & Simon Macy, who is more than a little intrigued er Chargers ALL MY CHILDREN: Jeremy broke up ered from his hangover. Nicole told Donna with Mick, convinced him to stick around with Natalie after Remy found proof that that Jason deserved to die because he erne & Shirley and photograph Sally's fashion line even - Houston-Drama Natalie had reported Marissa to the immi- killed their mother years ago. Cass told though Mick dislikes the clothes. Macy ce Story gration department for using false pass- Felicia that she will soon be released from wasn't pleased when Mick showed an orts Bowling (Delayed) ports (as part of Marissa's spy business). prison because Nicole confessed to killing interest in Donna. Brooke moved in with at PBA Doubles Classic. Jeremy was relieved when Marissa re- Jason. Derek admitted to Stacey that when gan's Island Donna until her wedding day. he was a youngster, he killed Felicia's FOM vie "Double Trouble" gained consciousness after falling down DAYS OF OUR LIVES: Roman was step-father, Noah, because Noah had beat- Elvis Presley. (2 hr.) the stairs. After his divorce was final, stunned when Abe told him that the police :) Nature Adam married Dixie, but he saw Brooke's en Felicia. Amanda was furious that Evan believe Diana, not Cal, shot Roman but has dness face while he was making love to Dixie. kept her in the dark about the fact that he blocked the shooting out of her mind. 1 Can Cook Karen gave Adam a shoulder to lean on is really Janice's son, Earl. Kimberly later hypnotized Diana, who n Chambers after he told Brooke he still loves her. AS THE WORLD TURNS: While held then admitted to Roman and Abe-that she Meior de la Semana Marissa told the police that Natalie didn't captive in Montega, Lily was stunned to remembered shooting Roman while he said he was secretly with Cal. Jack (Billv) THE WHITE house washington number of visitors 2.6 million 7/4 11.2 million weekend four-day Duncon Monow 343-7394 National Park System visitors extinate THE WHITE HOUSE washington 6/5/87 much. 73-36° 6/6/87 76°-41° a little in in afternoon 6/7/87 76-39° .31" rain 6/8/87 73-42 .26 rain Whether in Tetono NPS Ann Blately FTS 328-4220 450 FAMOUS FIRST FACTS The First The First The First PARACHUTE-Continued Tuesday, the day preceding Ash Wednesday and south of E Parachute. See under Aviation the penitential season of Lent as observed in President Catholic and Episcopal liturgy. (Erwin Craighead the Sieur PARACHUTE-JUMP COMBAT DECORATION. -Mobile: Facts and Tradition) ruary 26, See Medal: Combat decoration National PARCEL POST. See Postal service PARACHUTE-JUMPING CONTEST 1929 (45 S Parachute-jumping contest was held October PARCEL POST DOMESTIC AIR SERVICE. See contains 12, 1923, at Mitchel Field, N.Y. Two men on a Airmail service Acadia N Martin bomber and 2 men on a de Havilland PARCEL POST STAMP. See Postage stamp jumped from a 4,500-mile height and landed 400 State I feet from each other, one and a half minutes apart. PARENT-TEACHER ASSOCIATION California The first to land was Staff Sergeant Theodore Parent-teacher association (local) was the Froe- the Marip Schieuming of Brooklyn, N.Y. One thousand spec- bel Society of Brooklyn, N.Y., founded in 1884 to of it. It W further the "advancement of educational interests act of Co tators witnessed the jump. and the promotion of self-culture." It was named actual CC PARACHUTE WEDDING. See Wedding for the German educator Friedrich Wilhelm Au- were del gust Froebel. claims of PARACHUTIST Parachutist to make 124 jumps in one day was Parent-teacher association (national) was the tional Pa Neal Stewart of Birmingham, Ala., a paratrooper National Congress of Mothers, organized Febru- Californi on 30-day leave from Fort Bragg, N. C., who made ary 17, 1897, in Washington, D.C., by Alice McLel- trocessio 124 jumps at Grand Praire, Tex., out of a small lan Birney and Phoebe Apperson Hearst at a returned plane. His first jump was at 2:16 A.M., July 4, 1952, meeting attended by 2,000 persons. At the annual in the na and the last on July 5, 1952, from an altitude of meeting of March 9, 1908, the name was changed Hundred approximately 500 feet. to the National Congress of Mothers and Parent- Teacher Associations. On May 9, 1924, the name Under: PARADE Coral Re Automobile parade. See Automobile parade was changed to the National Congress of Parents wide, lyi and Teachers. Fla., esta Labor Day parade. See under Holiday PARISH, CATHOLIC. See Catholic parish proclama Parade in which all the marching music was Eisenhov PARK supplied by transistor radio receivers was held Park land purchased by a city was Elm Park, the 52 k from 11:00 A.M. to 12:00 A.M. on July 4, 1977, at Streamwood, Ill. The marchers carried portable containing 27 acres, which was sold to Worcester, been the Mass., on March 17 and March 20, 1854, by Levi the title transistor radios that were all tuned to receive the Lincoln and John Hammond. 1959, by program of music broadcast by radio station Monume WRMN (1410 AM), Elgin, Ill. The parade was wit- Park (national) was the Yellowstone National nessed by thousands and telecast over channel 2 Park, Wyo., authorized March 1, 1872 (17 Stat. L. PARK, I and channel 5. 32), by "an act to set aside a certain tract of land Parade, with float tableaux was held in Mobile, (2,142,720 acres) lying near the headwaters of the PARK SI Yellowstone River as a public park." The first su- August : Ala., on the evening of Mardi Gras day, February perintendent was Nathaniel Pitt Langford. Yel- National 24, 1868. The Order of Myths produced the first lowstone Park now consists of 2,213,205 acres in promote pageant. Next day followed the Infant Mystics the following states: Wyoming, 2,039,216 acres; known a and their pageant, then the Knights of Revelry. Montana, 142,501 acres; Idaho, 31,488 acres. Hot vations. These are the original mystic societies of the Springs National Park in Arkansas, consisting of Stephen South, and all still parade in Mobile's pageants. 911 acres with 46 hot springs, was established as annum a (History of Mardi Gras-Mobile Carnival Asso- a reservation by an act of Congress on April 20, director ciation) 1832 (4 Stat. L. 505). It was not until March 4, 1921 National Street parade held by a mystic society was held (41 Stat. L. 1407), that it was designated as the Hot' by the Cowbellian de Rakian Society, organized Springs National Park. Therefore, although it is PARKIN on December 31, 1830, in Mobile, Ala. The pecul- the oldest national park, it was not the first one to parking iar feature of this society and those which fol- be so called. lowed later was that absolute secrecy was PARKIN Park (national) in which there was an active maintained about their membership, the members Parkir volcano was the Lassen Volcanic National Park never appearing except in costume and in mask. ter, whic in the Sierra Nevada in California. It was estab- Parades were held annually on New Year's Eve, on July 1 lished by an act of Congress approved August 9, the first, December 31, 1830, being an impromptu pany of I 1916 (39 Stat. L. 443). It contains 104,526 acres, raid on a hardware store staged by a score of including the famous Lassen Peak, 10,453 feet painted young bloods, who were led, according to tradi- parking high. tion, by Michael Krafft. On March 5, 1867, Mobil- it would ians abandoned the New Year's Eve celebration Park (national) east of the Mississippi and the there. T in favor of daylight parades which were held on first located on an ocean is the Acadia National Magee, 1 Mardi Gras, literally Fat Tuesday, or Shrove Park, on the island of Mount Desert, about a mile obtained PLANET OF THE YEAR THOMAS IVES HIDDEN MENACE: Invisible CO2 emitted along with smoke from this Arizona copper smelter is warming up the air GLOBAL WARMING Feeling the Heat THEPROBLE Greenhouse gases calamity BY MICHAEL D. LEMONICK Hansen thus became perhaps the most prominent scientist willing to say straight out that the earth-warming effect of excess or more than a décade, many scientists have warned that F carbon dioxide (CO2) and other gases generated by industry and cars and factories are spewing enough gases into the at- agriculture had crossed the line from theory into fact. By itself, mosphere to heat up the earth in a greenhouse effect that Hansen's bold assertion was dramatic enough. But the unusual could eventually produce disastrous climate changes. But string of weather-related disasters that struck the world last until recently, the prophets of global warming garnered about as summer could not have been better timed to drive his point much attention as the religious zealots who insist that Armaged- home. The heat waves, droughts, floods and hurricanes may be don is near. When Colorado Senator Timothy Wirth held con- previews of what could happen with ever increasing frequency if gressional hearings on the greenhouse effect in the fall of 1987, the the atmosphere warms 3° F to 8° F by the middle of the next cen- topic generated no heat at all. "We had a very, very distinguished tury, as some scientists predict. panel," Wirth recalled at the TIME Environment Conference, On the other hand; the summer's disasters may have had "and who was in the cavernous hearing room? Six or seven peo- nothing to do with the greenhouse effect. They could have been ple, and two or three of them were lost tourists." random events-all part of the natural year-to-year variations in So Wirth decided to schedule another hearing in the sum- weather. Many climatologists called Hansen's remarks prema- mer, hoping hot weather would make people pay attention to the ture and feared that if this summer happens to be cool, public greenhouse issue. Sure enough, when the hearing convened last worries about the greenhouse effect will quickly fade. June 23, the thermometer read 99° F, a Washington record for Unfortunately, scientists cannot agree on how much global that day. The room was packed when James Hansen, head of warming has occurred, how much more is on the way and what NASA's Goddard Institute for Space Studies, turned global warm- the climatic consequences will be, giving policymakers an excuse ing into front-page news at last. "It is time to stop waffling so for delay. But no one disputes the fact that the amount of CO2 in much," he declared. "The evidence is pretty strong that the the atmosphere has risen and continues to increase rapidly and greenhouse effect is here." that the human race is thus conducting a dangerous experiment 36 TIME. JANUARY 2. 1989 PLANET OF THE YEAR ROBERT WILFRIED SPIRANDELLI GAS GUZZLING: A Bangkok tie-up symbolizes growing Third IOWA'S FUTURE? Climate change could World energy demands, which hurt efforts to cut fossil-fuel use erode land into dunes like these in Somalia on an unprecedented scale. The possible consequences are so would have an average surface temperature of only 0° F instead scary that it is only prudent for governments to slow the buildup of 59° F. Reason: like the glass panes of a greenhouse, CO2 mole- of CO₂ through preventive measures, from encouraging energy cules are transparent to visible light, allowing the sun's rays to conservation to developing alternatives to fossil fuels. warm the earth's surface. But when the surface gives off its ex- Some forecasters have suggested that the impact of global cess heat, it does so not with visible light but with infrared radia- warming will not be uniformly bad around the world. After all, tion. And since CO2 absorbs infrared rays, some of the excess Canada would not complain if the productive corn-growing heat stays in the atmosphere rather than escaping into space. lands of the U.S. Midwest shifted north across the border, and How much heat is retained depends on how much CO2 is in the the Soviet Union might welcome a warmer, more hospitable Si- air. beria. But while the broad outlines of a hotter world are easy to draw, more specific projections are riddled with uncertainty, ecent research has confirmed that this is more than since the regional weather patterns that would prevail are large- ly unpredictable. If Canada becomes much dryer than it is now, R just theory. By drilling deep into Antarctic and Arctic ice, scientists have been able to measure the amount of for example, higher temperatures will not help much. CO₂ in air bubbles trapped in ancient layers of snow. Moreover, while some nations will probably end up with a They have also looked at fossilized plant tissues for clues as to more benign climate than they now have, the pace of change how warm the air was during the same period. The conclusion: could be so jarring that the benefits would be lost. "We're talking CO2 levels and global temperatures have risen and fallen togeth- about rates of climate change perhaps 100 times faster than at er, over tens of thousands of years. And there is evidence from any time in human history," said Stephen Schneider of the Na- space: Mars, which has little CO2 in its atmosphere, has a surface tional Center for Atmospheric Research. Ecosystems will not be temperature that reaches 24° F at best, while Venus, with lots able to adjust so quickly, he said, "and the faster things change, of CO₂, is a hellish 850° F. the more likely it is that the impact will be negative." Warned The ebb and flow of CO₂ on earth was caused by only natural Thomas Lovejoy of the Smithsonian Institution: "There will be processes until less than 200 years ago. With the arrival of the In- no winners in this game of ecological chairs, for it will be funda- dustrial Revolution in the early 1800s, man suddenly threw a mentally disruptive and destabilizing, and we can anticipate new factor into the climatic equation. Carbon dioxide is released hordes of environmental refugees dwarfing the numbers of the in large quantities when wood and such fossil fuels as coal, oil Dust Bowl era or the boat people." and natural gas are burned. As society industrialized, coal-burn- Ironically, the same greenhouse effect that may be so dislo- ing factories began releasing CO₂ faster than plants and oceans, cating made earth hospitable to life in the first place. Without a which absorb the gas, could handle it. In the early 1900s, people heat-trapping blanket of naturally occurring CO2, the planet began burning oil and gas at prodigious rates. And increasing 1. What Impose special taxes on carbon-dioxide emissions, which would encourage energy conservation. Nations 2. Increase funding for research on alternative energy sources, including solar power, and Should safer designs for nuclear reactors. D 3. Provide financial aid to enable developing nations to build high-efficiency power plants rather than conventional facilities. 4. Launch a mammoth international tree-planting program. 5. Develop techniques for recovering part of the methane that is given off by landfills and cattle feedlots. TIME, JANUARY 2, 1989 37 PLANET OF THE YEAR CLEAN POWER: Mirrors near San Diego focus sunlight to change water to steam, which drives electric generators population led to the widespread cutting of trees in less. devel- World Resources Institute. Tree planting can be encouraged at oped countries. These trees are no longer available to soak up ex- all levels of society, from individuals putting an extra tree or two cess CO2, and whether they are burned or left to rot, they instead in their backyards to local communities and private organiza- release the gas. By the late 1800s atmospheric CO2 had risen to tions planting an acre at a time to provincial and national gov- between 280 and 290 parts per million. Today it stands at 350 ernments reforesting on a more widespread basis. p.p.m., and by 2050 it could reach 500 to 700 p.p.m., higher than Admittedly, trees are just a stopgap. Unless a tree is used for it has been in millions of years. lumber, it eventually dies and rots:or is burned, releasing what- But carbon dioxide, once thought to be exclusively responsi- ever CO2 it has absorbed. But since the rapid pace of change may ble for the greenhouse effect, is now known to cause only half the be the greatest danger posed by global warming, stopgaps could problem. The rest comes from other gases. Chlorofluorocarbons, be important. If nothing else, reforestation will buy time to put or CFCs, are not only destroyers of the stratosphere's ozone layer other preventive measures into place. but powerful greenhouse gases as well. So are nitrogen oxides, Tree planting will have negligible impact, however, if people which are pollutants spewed out of automobile exhausts and continue to pump CO2 into the atmosphere at current rates. power-plant smokestacks. Another greenhouse gas is methane, While wood and fossil-fuel burning will never be eliminated, the primary component of natural gas. Methane is also generat- they can be cut down significantly. An immediate way to do so is ed by bacteria living in the guts of cattle and termites, the muck through conservation. When oil prices soared in the 1970s, in- of rice paddies and the rotting garbage in landfills. Each of these dustries responded by becoming much more energy efficient. But sources is fostered by human activity-even the termites, which the plunge in the price of oil from $36 per bbl. in 1982 to less than thrive in the clearings left after tropical rain forests are cut down. $12 per bbl. this fall has cooled the enthusiasm for conservation. Humanity's contribution to the greenhouse effect comes from so Governments must rekindle that interest and boost energy sav- many basic activities that man cannot realistically expect to stop ing by setting or raising minimum efficiency standards for auto- the process, only slow it down. mobiles, appliances and other machinery. Although developed countries waste the most energy, there first step toward doing that is to ban the production of are plenty of opportunities for conservation in the developing A CFCs, which are used to make plastic foam and as cool- world, where energy-using equipment tends to be older and ants in refrigerators and air conditioners. These gases more inefficient. Third World conservation would not only help account for an estimated 15% of the greenhouse effect. slow greenhouse warming but also let countries save money by Another strategy is to burn as much methane as possible. That reducing dependence on energy imports. If the industrialized adds CO2 to the air, but getting rid of the methane is well worth countries expect cooperation, though, they should make avail- it. Both gases trap heat, but as a greenhouse gas, methane traps able at minimal cost the most advanced energy-saving technol- 20 times as much heat as carbon dioxide, molecule for molecule. ogy, especially for power plants, and help finance the purchase. Methane from cattle feedlots will be very difficult to collect, but By far the most efficient and effective way to spur conserva- the gas in garbage landfills is already being tapped and burned at tion is to raise the cost of fossil fuels. Current prices fail to reflect many sites around the U.S. At the Fresh Kills landfill on New the very real environmental costs of pumping carbon dioxide York City's Staten Island, for example, methane that would other- into the air. The answer is a tax on CO2 emissions-or a CO2 wise have escaped into the air is being collected by a gas company user fee, if that is a more palatable term. The fee need not raise a and used to heat thousands of homes. The technique essentially in- country's overall tax burden; it could be offset by reductions in volves driving a pipe into the depths of the garbage, then trapping income taxes or other levies. the gas that rushes out. This should be done at all landfills. Imposing a CO2 fee would not be as difficult as it sounds. It is Another step that could be taken to counteract global warm- easy to quantify how much CO2 comes from burning a gallon of ing is to slow-and ideally stop-deforestation. But that is an gasoline, a ton of coal or a cubic yard of natural gas. Most countries enormously complex task, and so a simple companion strategy already have gasoline taxes; similar fees, set according to the should be adopted at the same time: the planting of trees, and amount of CO2 produced, could be put on all fossil-fuel sources. At plenty of them, to absorb CO2 from the air. "It surely has to be the same time, companies could be given credits against their CO2 one of the most benign things we can do," said Gus Speth of the taxes if they planted trees to take some of the CO2 out of the air. 38 TIME. JANUARY 2, 1989 PLANET OF THE YEAR A user fee would have Speth. If they drop to $1, solar benefits beyond forcing a cut- power will become competi- back in CO2 emissions. The tive. That could happen with- fuels that generate carbon di- out significant Government oxide also generate other pol- research support-but it will lutants, like soot, along with happen sooner with it. nitrogen oxides and sulfur di- Sometime early in. the oxide, the primary causes of next century, solar enthusi- acid rain. The CO2 tax would asts hope to see vast tracts of be a powerful incentive for photovoltaic collectors pro- consumers to switch from viding cheap electricity that high-CO2 fuels, such as coal can be transmitted over long and oil, to power sources that distances. Alternatively, the produce less CO2, notably electricity could be used to natural gas. When burned, produce hydrogen from wa- methane generates only half ter. That could open up all as much CO2 as coal, for ex- sorts of possibilities. Cars, for ample, in producing the same example, could be redesigned amount of energy. to run on hydrogen, and that Ultimately, though, the SMALL WONDER: Wind farms like this one in Livermore, would produce a dramatic re- world must move away from Calif., slow global warming only a little, but every bit helps duction in CO2 emissions. fossil fuels for most of its ener- Nuclear power is more gy needs. Said Berrien Moore, director of the Institute for the controversial; until recently the mere mention of it made environ- Study of the Earth, Oceans and Space at the University of New mentalists blanch. They had good reason, considering the acci- Hampshire: "Even if you cut emissions of CO2 in half, the atmo- dents at Three Mile Island and Chernobyl, the problem of radio- spheric concentration will keep going up. You're still adding CO2 active waste and the horror stories about U.S. weapons plants. But faster than you're withdrawing it, so the balance keeps rising." the greenhouse effect is forcing some antinuclear activists to re- Of all the known nonfossil energy sources, only two are far think their position. "I was a strong opponent of the nuclear pro- enough along in their development to be counted on: solar and gram in France," said Brice Lalonde, France's Environment Un- nuclear, neither of which generates any greenhouse gases at all. der Secretary and a former presidential candidate on the Solar power is especially attractive. It produces no waste, and it is Ecologist Party ticket. "Now I am reassessing the whole thing." inexhaustible. Not all solar power comes directly from the sun: France gets more than 70% of its electricity from nuclear plants both wind and hydroelectric power are solar, since wind is created and has an impressive safety record. by the sun's uneven warming of the atmosphere and since the wa- Reactors in France, like all conventional reactors, depend for ter that collects behind dams was originally rain, which in turn their safety in part on the skill and alertness of their operators. To was water vapor evaporated by solar heating. minimize the risk of human error, engineers have developed designs But wind and hydroelectric power can be generated at only a for much safer-types of nuclear reactors. But while these reactors, relatively few sites, and so governments should redouble financing like experimental solar cells, show great promise, they are not yet for research to develop efficient, low-cost photovoltaic power. economical enough to go on-line in significant numbers. It should Photovoltaic cells, which produce electric current when bathed in therefore be a priority of governments to spend more money on re- sunlight, were briefly in vogue during the energy crises of the search aimed at lowering the cost of safe nuclear and solar power 1970s, and while public attention and Government funding have and making them primary energy sources. Otherwise the global waned, research into the technology has continued. "The capital warming that results from overreliance on fossil fuels could produce costs have come down from about $50 a peak watt to $5," said an increasingly uncertain and potentially bleak future. The Good News: Osage, lowa, Counts Kilowatts The houses and businesses in The folks in Osage save energy the thermogram, a test that pinpoints places Osage, a town of some 3,600 old-fashioned way: they plug leaky win- where the most heat is escaping. More people in northern Iowa, seem dows, insulate walls and ceilings, replace than half the town's property owners ac- just like buildings anywhere inefficient furnaces and wrap hot-water cepted the offer. else in small-town America. heaters in blanket insulation. Since 1974, Birdsall's conservation campaign Only a close look reveals the difference. the community has cut its natural-gas still flourishes long after similar efforts Examine, for example, the new insulated consumption some 45% and reduced its elsewhere have flagged. The utility re- roof on the local hospital that shaves utili- annual growth in electricity demand by cently decided to give customers $15 fluo- ty bills 20%. Or venture into the basement more than half, to less than 3% a year. rescent light bulbs, which use far less en- of Steele's Super Valu grocery to see the Much of the town's energy saving can ergy than incandescent models. While wall that owner Everett Steele built be traced to the zeal of Weston Birdsall, Birdsall's strategies are based on simple, around his cooling compressors to cap- general manager of Osage Municipal widely known techniques, few cities or ture heat, which is then pumped into the Utilities. Looking back to 1972, when he towns apply the methods as diligently as store. Osage's model conservation pro- took over the utility company, Birdsall re- Osage does. "Why aren't more people do- gram saved the town an estimated $1.2 calls, "That's about the time OPEC reared ing this?" Birdsall asks. Maybe more of million in energy costs in 1988 and made a its ugly head. We had to do something." them will if they come to realize that con- modest but worthwhile contribution to- Birdsall preached conservation door to serving energy not only saves money but ward slowing down global warming. door, offering to give every building a free also helps save the environment: TIME, JANUARY 2, 1989 39 PLANET OF THE ' Y E A R A Global Bargain Far more difficult than signing interna tional treaties will be finding the money to make them work: The impoverished Thir World countries, burdened with debt, cannot afford expensive environ- mental projects without outside help. Nor is the U.S in a position to fund a new eco- logical Marshall Plan on its own. Here are the elements of a north-south deal that could pool the financial resources of the industrialized world and channel them REDUCED MILITARY SPENDING: The U.S. and the Soviet into sustainable development plans for Union could cut back their nuclear and conventional the poorer countries. forces, shrinking their defense budgets and freeing funds for domestic and foreign environmental programs. Hands Across the Sea Richand and south,nations mus ittogether or face/common disaster BY THOMAS A. SANCTON en some important initiatives. In 1972 the U.N. organized the landmark Stockholm conference, which set up the United Na- t is easy to draw up a plan of action for protecting the earth. tions Environment Program. It was under UNEP's sponsorship But- that plan will fail unless it is forged with international that 24 countries signed the 1987 Montreal Protocol, calling for a fellowship and carried out on a global scale. How much good reduction in the output of ozone-destroying chlorofluorocarbons. can one country do by reducing carbon-dioxide emissions if an- There have also been proposals to enhance UNEP's role as a sort other nation offsets that with an increased output of CO2? How of intergovernmental superagency on environmental questions. can one country keep its beaches clean if its neighbor down the Paralleling the U.N.'s efforts, multilateral financial institu- coast dumps sewage or syringes into the sea? "On most environ- tions have a crucial role to play. The World Bank, which lends mental questions, the nation-state is obsolete," said Pace Univer- money for Third World development projects, was long criti- sity's Nicholas Robinson. "We have to talk about multinational cized by environmental groups for backing large, ecologically cooperation." unsound programs-a cattle-raising scheme in Botswana that The first goal of that cooperative effort should be to gather led to overgrazing, for example. During the past few years, how- the information needed to fashion effective policies. "We've got ever, the World Bank has been seeking to factor environmental to get the earth in intensive care, to start to monitor the vital signs concerns into its programs. One product of this new approach is of the planet," said John Eddy of the University Corporation for an environmental action plan for Madagascar. The 20-year Atmospheric Research in Boulder. This could be done by launch- plan, which will be drawn up jointly with the World Wide Fund ing an International Earthwatch Program, possibly under the ae- for Nature, aims at heightening public awareness of environ- gis of the United Nations, to coordinate multinational research mental issues, setting up and managing protected areas and en- projects and centralize essential data on the state of the world. couraging sustainable development. Similar aims should also Such an umbrella program could pool the results of hundreds of guide the lending policies of the International Monetary Fund, existing research efforts. A prime candidate for this program regional development banks and bilateral assistance programs. would be the Mission to Planet Earth, recommended by former Much of the current environmental crisis is rooted in, and astronaut Sally Ride, which would use NASA facilities to study the exacerbated by, the widening gap between rich and poor na- earth from space. In addition to improving knowledge of the tions. Industrialized countries contain only 23% of the world's earth's ills, an International Earthwatch Program could provide population, yet they control 80% of the world's goods and are the basis for a widespread awareness-building campaign aimed also responsible for the bulk of its pollution. On the other hand, it at preparing public opinion for the sacrifices and life-style is the developing countries that are hardest hit by overpopula- changes that will be necessary in the coming decades. Environ- tion, malnutrition and disease. As these nations struggle to catch mental education programs should be immediately introduced up with the developed world, a vicious circle begins: their efforts into schools and workplaces around the world, and government at rapid industrialization poison their cities, while their attempts leaders should bring these issues into the heart of political debate. to boost agricultural production often result in the destruction of But research and education are no substitutes for concrete their forests and the depletion of their soils. action. The world community must move promptly toward com- The greatest obstacle to economic and environmental im- prehensive treaties to protect the air, soil and water. A frame- provements in the developing countries is their mammoth for- work for the effort exists within the U.N., which has already tak- eign debt. Collectively, the Third World owes $1.2 trillion to the 54 TIME. JANUARY 2, 1989 SAREN NISSAN BURDEN SHARING: U.S. allies like Japan and West AID FOR THE THIRD WORLD: In exchange for Germany would no longer be under pressure to raise foreign funds, the developing nations would military spending and could contribute to global se- agree to curb deforestation and adopt other curity by increasing aid to the developing countries. responsible environmental policies. banks and governments of industrialized countries. A new ty" to include "the issues of population, environment and sustain- World Bank report estimates that in 1988 the developing coun- able development." Yet the U.S., the world's largest debtor, can tries made net payments of $43 billion to the industrial nations, no longer supply the bulk of aid to the Third World. Nor can the up from $38 billion in 1987. How can the rich nations expect economically strapped Soviet Union provide much financial poor countries to launch environmental programs while strug- help. gling to pay off those crippling loans? Clearly, the Third World's That leaves Japan, now the world's most financially powerful debt payments will have to be lightened or postponed. The best country, with a heavy responsibility for taking a leading role in way of doing that seems to be using debt forgiveness as leverage bankrolling solutions to the environmental crisis. Japan has long for winning environmental concessions. shied away from assuming a major place in international affairs One approach that has already been pursued successfully on a because of its militaristic adventures of the 1930s and '40s, but as small scale is the so-called debt-for-nature swaps. Conceived by Prime Minister Noboru Takeshita has made clear, his country re- the Smithsonian Institution's Thomas Lovejoy in 1984, these in- alizes its international duty and is willing to shoulder it. novative deals often involve the cooperation of governments, Japan's foreign aid appropriations of more than $10 billion bankers and conservation groups. In a typical debt-for-nature in 1988 outstripped U.S. outlays, and Tokyo has increased its swap earlier this year, the World Wildlife Fund, a nonprofit orga- contributions to the World Bank and other environment-con- nization based in Washington, bought $1 million worth of Ecua- scious lending institutions. The Takeshita government is willing doran debt held by Bankers Trust at the discounted price of to give more, but its efforts have ironically been hampered by the $354,500. The bank was happy to get the troublesome loan off its U.S., which is reluctant to give the Japanese a greater say in run- books, while the World Wildlife Fund gained the power to im- ning these international groups. One solution might be to set up a prove that country's environment. The fund accomplishes this new financial entity, an International Bank for Environmental by transferring the loan payments to Fundación Natura, a Protection, in which the Japanese could have a major responsi- conservation group in Ecuador. Fundación Natura, in turn, uses bility for both funding and management. the money to protect and maintain national parks and wildlife America, for its part, is at a turning point. The Reagan Admin- preserves. istration, with its poor record However it is accom- on environmental issues, is plished, a greater share of the Nobel for a Noble Cause coming to a close. President- world's capital will have to flow into developing countries. elect Bush, who turned the pol- lution of Boston Harbor into a What they need, said Senator P hysicists and chemists can earn the ultimate recogni- successful campaign issue, has Albert Gore, is a new Mar- tion: a Nobel Prize. Why not accord the same honor to shall Plan for economic devel- an opportunity to show that he environmental scientists? At the TIME conference, the pro- is serious about saving the plan- opment and environmental posal was backed by everyone from U.S. Senator Albert et-even after the election. He preservation. But where will Gore to Vasili Peskov, a correspondent for the Moscow the money come from? For sent out an encouraging signal newspaper Komsomolskaya Pravda. Peskov suggested that last week by naming veteran starters, the U.S: and the Sovi- the first environmental Nobel be given posthumously to Ra- et Union could reduce military conservationist William Reilly chel Carson, whose 1962 book Silent Spring helped alert the to head the Environmental spending in order to boost aid world to the pollution threat.' for environmental programs. Protection Agency. Reilly, 48, Alfred Nobel's will set up five awards: Nobel laureate Murray Gell- president of the World Wildlife physics, chemistry, medicine or physiolo- Mann, a professor of theoreti- Fund, promised a "new and gy, literature and peace. But that limita- cal physics at the California constructive course" on envi- tion was overcome in 1968, when Swe- Institute of Technology, ar- ronmental problems. It is none den's Central Bank financed a separate gued that the superpowers too soon. -Reported by Barry economics prize in memory of Nobel. should redefine "global securi- Hillenbrand/Tokyo and Richard Hornik/Washington TIME, JANUARY 2, 1989 63 PLANET OF THE YEAR 1. Raise the Gasoline Tax What A gallon of unleaded gasoline, which costs roughly 95c, is nearly a third The U.S. cheaper now than it was eight years ago. When inflation is taken into ac- count, the price decline is closer to 50%. Raising the federal gasoline tax by 50c per gal., from 9c to 59c, over the next five years would renew driv- Shou 0 ers' interest in fuel conservation. 2. Toughen Auto Fuel-Efficiency Requirements Federal regulations require that automakers produce fleets of cars with an The U.S. hasmade significant average fuel efficiency of 26 m.p.g. The Government originally set a fuel- strides in ion control and efficiency target of 27.5 m.p.g. for 1986, but the Reagan Adminis Menergy conser the allowed the car companies to postpone that goal. The new Administration spast 5 years, but the country should institute the 27.5 m.p.g. requirement and then gradually raise it to remains the 45 m.p.g. by the year 2000. ofnatural and despoiler the global 3. Encourage Waste Recycling environment Because pf the The Federal Government should set national goals and standards for recy- of its economy the U.S. cling programs but leave their implementation to state and local agencies. consumes fourth the As an immediate first step, the President and Congress should require world's year. federal agencies to increase steadily their use of recycled paper products. fora givenamount of energy the U.S. produces less than 4. Promote Natural-Gas Usage much economic output as Japan and West Germany Meanwhile, Far more abundant than anyone thought a decade ago, natural gas is the the commitment to reduce cleanest hydrocarbon fuel available. But in many cases, utilities that wish pollution has flagged. Although to switch from coal-fired power generation to gas-fired must go through a the U.S. accounts for less, than lengthy process to obtain a federal permit. Such regulations, which inhibit the global population,it the increased use of natural gas, should be eased. generates 15% of the world's emissions and 5. Encourage Debt-for-Nature Swaps 25% of nitrogen oxides and The U.S. opposes all government-subsidized debt relief for Third World carbon Each American countries. At a minimum, federal regulators should encourage U.S. banks produces an average of 3½ lbs to participate in programs that reduce debt in exchange for steps taken by of trasha day. debtor nations to protect tropical rain forests and other resources. When energy was expensive, Americans treatedit that way. 6. Support Family Planning Be 973 and 1985, when In 1984 the Reagan Administration cut off U.S. aid to the two major inter- the of oilsurged U.S. national family-planning organizations. Reason: the United Nations Fund percapita energy consump tion for Population Activities and the International Planned Parenthood Feder- fell and the average ation have been accused of assisting some local population agencies that amount of goods and services provide or pay for abortions. Unless the growth in the world population is tedper person slowed, it will be impossible to make serious progress on any environmen- the past few years however, tal issue. The U.S. should immediately restore the aid it withdrew. has risenas the price has declined. Americans, 7. Ratify the Law of the Sea who own more than 135 million s,or about one third of the The U.S. has never ratified the 1982 U.N. Convention on Law of the Sea, world's to have been driving which sought to regulate mining and other commercial development. The more and resume Administration argues that the treaty interferes with private exploitation love affair with gas- of the sea. That ideological issue should be put aside SO that the U.S. can guzzling exercise global leadership and clear the way for international pacts aimed Because of its sheer size and at protecting the atmosphere. inf the U.S. must be in the 8. vanguard of the effort to solve Make the Environment a Summit Issue the environment crisis. When the leaders of the major industrial nations gather next June in Paris fore international bodies for their 15th economic summit, George Bush should push to make envi- come up with global strategies, ronmental problems the No. 1 agenda item. Ronald Reagan's success at the U.S. can take many steps, previous summits stemmed from his insistence on dealing with only one unilaterally and immediately. major topic. Should Bush take that approach in Paris, global environmental issues stand a better chance of getting the attention they deserve. TIME, JANUARY 2, 1989 65 PLANET OF THE YEAR And since they are harder than anything we have done before, and the efforts may all come to naught anyway, why mess with "What Is Wrong them? Why not conserve our energy and just not even try? That is a formidable barrier, not least because the solutions require in- ternational cooperation on a scale that is totally unprecedented With Us?" in history. A Senator simpassioned action. T hose five barriers must be overcome before the political system reacts. The role of leadership is critical in spread- ing awareness, in framing solutions, in offering a vision of If the steps needed to save the environment are well known and the future we want to create, as well as a vision of the nightmare feasible, then why are they not taken? In a speech at the TIME con- we wish to avoid. ference, Senator Albert Gore of Tennessee, one of the most ardent There is an old science experiment in which a frog is put into environmentalists in Congress, explored this crucial question. Ex- a pan of water, and the water is slowly heated to the boiling cerpts from his remarks: point. The frog sits there and boils because its nervous system will not react to the gradual increase. But if you boil the water W hen I announced I was running for President, I said first and then put the frog in, it immediately jumps out. the greenhouse effect, the depletion of the ozone layer We are at an environmental boiling point right now. Is the and the global ecological crisis will, by the end of this destruction of one football-field's worth of forest every second election year, be recognized as the most serious issue facing this enough to make the frog react and jump out of the pan? What country and the world. Three days later, a George Will column will it take? If, as in a science-fiction movie, we had a giant in- ridiculed the naiveté of a politician vader from space clomping across who could imagine that issues of this the rain forests of the world with kind would be politically salable. I guess he was partly right and BARRY STAVER football field-size feet-going boom, boom, boom every second-would partly wrong. I was right in that the we react? That's essentially what is issue has, during this year, attained going on right now. enormous importance and new rec- We saw the two whales trapped ognition. But he was right, since it in the Arctic ice, struggling for air, didn't do me any good politically. and the world responded. The U.S. There are still barriers to political and the Soviet Union cooperated. action. Let me discuss five of them. Yet we see 40,000 babies starving Number one, there are areas of every day, and we don't react. What uncertainty about the greenhouse ef- is wrong with us? fect and the dire nature of the ecologi- There used to be a debate in the cal crisis we face, which are seized '70s about appropriate technology. upon as excuses for inaction. This is a Now the question is: Did God choose psychological problem common to all an appropriate technology when he humanity. If strong responses are gave human beings dominion over needed and yet there is some residual the earth? The jury is still out. And uncertainty about whether you are the answer has to come in our lifetime going to have to make those respons- from the political system. es, the natural psychological tenden- There are precedents. We made cy is to magnify the uncertainty and "Did God choose an appropriate human sacrifice, once commonplace, say, "Well, maybe we won't really have to face up to it." technology when he gave human obsolete. We made slavery obsolete. These things, just like changes in But the fact that we face an eco- beings dominion over the earth? weather patterns, took a long period of logical crisis without any precedent The jury is still out." time. But now, just as climate changes in historic times is no longer a mat- are telescoped into a very short period ter of any dispute worthy of recogni- of time, changes in human thinking of tion. And those who, for the purpose of maintaining balance in a magnitude comparable to the changes that brought about the abo- debate, take the contrarian view that there is significant uncer- lition of slavery must take place in one generation. tainty about whether it's real are hurting our ability to respond. We know how to solve the problem. It will be unimaginably The second barrier to political action is an unwillingness difficult. The cooperation required will be unprecedented. But to believe that something so far outside the bounds of historical we know what to do. What is required is a change in thinking experience can, in fact, be occurring. To put it another way, this and a change in the equilibrium of the world's political system. set of problems sounds like the plot of a bad science-fiction mov- Right now the political equilibrium is characterized by ie. People automatically assume it can't be real. short-term policies at the expense of long-term policies. It is The third political barrier is the assumption that it will be characterized by actions to confer national advantage at the ex- easier and more sensible to adapt to whatever climate change OC- pense of actions designed to promote global advantage. It is curs than it will be to prevent the crisis. But the change could characterized by preparations for war, ignorance and starvation. come so swiftly that adaptation will be all but impossible. Our challenge as political leaders is to come up with an agen- The fourth barrier is the lack of widespread awareness da of solutions, which we are doing. But the larger challenge for among the peoples of the world about the nature of the problem. all of us is to shift the world's political system into a new'state of Most political leaders, let alone their public, are unaware of what equilibrium, characterized by more cooperation, global agendas is happening and how severe it is. That must be changed. and a focus on the future. As General Omar Bradley said at the The fifth barrier to political action is the knowledge that end of World War II, "It is time we steered by the stars and not many of the ultimate solutions are almost unimaginably difficult. by the lights of each passing ship." 66 TIME. JANUARY 2. 1989 PLANET OF THE YEAR The Greening of the U.S.S.R. As public leanup, Gorbachey fights a of pollution ers. "In this restructuring," said Nicholas Robinson, a Pace Uni- BY DICK THOMPSON versity professor and an expert on the Soviet environment, "the he Soviet Union is an environmentalist's nightmare. The Communist Party Central Committee has decided that, after industrial city of Nizhni Tagil, some 700 miles east of disarmament, environmental protection is the No. 1 world is- Moscow, is sometimes wrapped in clouds of gaseous sue." An aggressive cleanup program has already begun. Proj- wastes so thick and toxic that drivers must turn on their head- ects are being re-evaluated in light of their environmental im- lights at noon and children walking home from school get skin pact. Fines have been levied on some polluters, and criminal rashes. Every year 700,000 tons of toxic substances are spewed proceedings have been started against others. into the city's air. Not only Nizhni Tagil but more than 100 other Internationally, the Soviets are pushing for stronger accords major cities, including Moscow, also have air-pollution levels ten to protect the environment and are seeking ways to integrate times as high as the acceptable standards set by the Soviets. their atmospheric-research efforts with those under way else- where. For the first time since World War II, the Soviet Union and the U.S. may have found a common enemy: glob- al climate change. Said President Mik- hail Gorbachev in his speech this month to the U.N. General Assembly: "Inter- national economic security is inconceiv- able unless related not only to disarma- CAMP ment but also to the elimination of the threat to the world's environment." One sign of the Soviets' willingness to join international environmental ef- forts was their presence at the TIME con- ference in Boulder. Fyodor Morgun, the recently appointed head of Goskom- priroda, made his first trip to the U.S. (and only his second journey outside the Soviet Union) to attend the meeting. And he was startlingly frank about the situation in his country. "We have start- ed too late," Morgun told the group. "Our air is not up to the proper mark, our soil is polluted, and our forests are affected. Drastic measures were taken in CLOUDY SKIES: Gases billow from an apatite refinery on the Kola Peninsula the West 15 to 20 years ago to improve the environment. Now my country must get to work on this as well." The land and water are not in any better shape. The riverbed The Soviet environmental disaster has been a long time in of the Neva, which meanders beside the magnificent Hermitage the making. Beginning in the days of Stalin, ecological concerns in Leningrad, is covered with a thick layer of oil. Ill-advised dam were shunted aside in the rush toward industrialization. Valo- construction and inappropriate irrigation projects have caused vaya produktsiya, a phrase that translates into "gross output" the level of the Aral Sea to drop 40 ft. It is possible that this body and is abbreviated as val, was at the heart of the problem. Indus- of water, the world's sixth largest sea, will not exist in 20 years. try bureaucrats have long been evaluated-and rewarded-only Siberia, once pristine, is laced with wastes from steel, chemical in terms of gross output. Rivers were fouled and forests stripped and coal industries. Worrisome numbers. of dead sturgeon are in the rush to transform raw materials into material wealth. No floating atop the polluted Volga River, threatening the Soviets' premium was placed on efficiency, and no environmental con- prestigious caviar supply. Resorts along the Black Sea have cerns restrained val. Trucks in Siberia, for example, are still left banned swimming after the government's warning that the wa- running every hour of every day throughout the winter because ters are contaminated with dysentery and typhoid germs. the vehicles are very difficult to start in the cold, and diesel fuel is For decades the Soviet people accepted the situation in si- plentiful. lence. But glasnost has made them less afraid to speak out. Citi- Nowhere are the consequences of unchecked industrializa- zens worried about the environment are demonstrating by the tion more obvious than in Siberia's Lake Baikal basin. Nearly 30 thousands and contributing to political unrest in the Baltic years ago, Minlesbumprom (the Ministry of Timber, Pulp and States. Elsewhere, budding environmental groups have even Paper, and Wood Processing Industry) erected the Baikalsh pulp sponsored candidates for city elections. factory on the shores of this majestic body of crystal-clear water. Amid the turmoil the Soviet government has finally begun to The crescent-shaped lake holds 80% of the country's fresh water move. The Kremlin has reorganized a number of departments and 20% of the world's supply. Three-fourths of the lake's 2,500 into the new State Committee for the Protection of the Environ- fish and plant species, including the Baikal пегра, a fresh-water ment, Goskompriroda, and given it an impressive range of pow- seal, are unknown anywhere else in the world. 68 TIME. JANUARY 2. 1989 PLANET OF THE YEAR Preparing for the Worst If the turns killer and the well runsidry how will humanity cope? BY PHILIP ELMER-DEWITT in sub-Saharan Africa or the vanishing coastline in Louisiana. The other is that Homo sapiens is an immensely resourceful spe- f the nations of the world take immediate action, the destruc- cies, with an impressive ability to accommodate sweeping tion of the global environment can be slowed substantially. change. In countries and regions hit by climatic upheavals, peo- But some irreversible damage is inevitable. Even if fossil-fuel ple have come up with a variety of solutions that are likely to emissions are cut drastically, the overall level of carbon dioxide have broad applicability to the global problems of tomorrow. in the atmosphere will still increase-along with the likelihood How would societies respond, for example, if the oceans of some global warming. Even if toxic dumping is banned out- were to rise by 3 ft. to 5 ft. over the next century, as some scien- right and that ban is strictly enforced, some lakes and aquifers tists have predicted? One option would be to construct levees and will be tainted by poisons that have already been released. Even dikes. The Netherlands, after all, has flourished more than 12 ft. if global population growth could somehow be cut in half, there below sea level for hundreds of years. Its newest bulwark is a 5.6- would still be more than 45 million new mouths to feed next mile dam made up of 131-ft. steel locks that remain open during year, putting further strain on a planet whose capacity to sustain normal conditions, to preserve the tidal flow that feeds the rich life is already under stress. local sea life, but can be closed when rough weather threatens. Sooner or later the earth's human inhabitants, so used to Venice is beginning to put into place a 1.2-mile flexible seawall adapting the environment to suit their needs, will be forced to that would protect its treasured landmarks against Adriatic adapt themselves to the environment's demands. When that day storms without doing ecological damage to the city's lagoon. comes, how will societies respond? How well will the world cope Shoring up cities such as New York, Los Angeles, Paris, with the long-term changes that are likely to be in store? London and Rio de Janeiro would require equally monumental To help answer those questions, political scientist Michael measures. In the U.S. the Environmental Protection Agency es- Glantz of the National Center for Atmospheric Research has timates that the cost of protecting developed coastal areas could pioneered the use of a technique known as "forecasting by analo- reach $111 billion. Southern Louisiana, which is losing land to gy" to predict the effects on society of future climatic change. In the Gulf of Mexico at the alarming rate of one acre every 16 min- a series of case studies, Glantz and his colleagues analyzed the utes, has already drawn up an ambitious mix of programs. In the response of state and local governments to actual environmental biggest project, a $24 million pumping station would divert mil- events across the U.S., from a 12-ft. rise in the level of Utah's lions of gallons of silt-rich Mississippi River water onto the Great Salt Lake to the depletion of the aquifer that supplies coastline to help stop saltwater intrusion and to supply sediment groundwater to eight Great Plains states. that will build up the eroding land. At least one parish is consid- When Glantz's forecasting technique is applied to the rest of ering plans for a backstop dike to give residents time to escape the world, two things become clear. One is that virtually every should the sea finally reach their doors. long-term environmental change is occurring in miniature Poorer countries have fewer options. Wracked by periodic somewhere on the planet, whether it is a regional warming trend floods, Bangladesh cannot simply evacuate the "chars"-bars of 70 TIME. JANUARY 2. 1989 PLANET OF THE YEAR All that is under assault. Currently, the emissions and has begun criminal investi- pulp factory produces 200,000 tons of cellu- BARRY STAVER gations against more than ten other plants. lose fibers a year, and its effluent, dis- But the Soviet leader may face a po- charged directed into the lake, has created tential conflict between his desire for a a polluted zone 23 miles wide. Clouds of cleaner environment and his hopes of rap- yellowish smoke belching from the fac- idly raising the living standards and con- tory's smokestacks have settled over 770 sq. sumption levels of his people. Without mi. of Siberian wilderness and have killed careful pollution control, boosting produc- an estimated 86,000 fir trees. tion will befoul the environment even more. And money that goes into antipollu- T he environmental offenses at Baikal tion equipment cannot be used for indus- and elsewhere revived the deep rela- trial expansion. In Boulder, Morgun em- tionship that the Soviets have with phasized that the Kremlin wanted to get nature. "Please believe me," said Morgun, around this dilemma by redirecting money "the people have awakened." From Arme- from military spending into the civilian nia to Zaporozhye, hundreds of thousands "We have started too economy. That, he said, depended on con- have taken to the streets to protest every- thing from air pollution to nuclear-power late. Our air is not up to tinued progress in arms-control talks with the U.S. plants. In April 10,000 people demonstrat- the proper mark, our From an international perspective, the ed against the conditions in Nizhni Tagil. soil is polluted, and our most disturbing aspect of the Soviet econo- Protesters in Priozyorsk were successful in forests are affected. my is the enormous quantity of carbon di- closing a major paper plant that had been Drastic measures were oxide it puts into the air. Because the ma- dumping waste into Lake Ladoga, the chines in many Soviet factories are obsolete source of drinking water for 6 million peo- taken in the West 15 to and inefficient, they consume an inordinate ple. Many of the political demonstrations in 20 years ago to improve amount of energy, making the country one the Baltic States are linked to the environ- ment. Said Marshall Goldman, associate the environment. Now of the largest contributors to the green- house effect. The Soviets are aware of this director of the Russian Research Center at my country must get to problem and hope to solve it by importing Harvard University: "In almost every re- work on this as well." technology designed to improve energy effi- public in which there is a movement for in- dependence or the assertion of political FYODOR MORGUN ciency and pollution control. They hope that much of that technology will come rights, it has been led by an environmental from the U.S. Said Morgun: "We will go movement." anyplace, over any mountain, over an ocean to get the technol- Gorbachev, whose background is in agriculture, has shown a ogy. And if you offer some kind of technology, we will be glad to special concern for the environment from the beginning of his accept it. We would be most grateful." reign. Early on, he toured the country and took care to detour That is a plea the U.S. should take seriously, by easing restric- from the carefully prepared showcase routes to inspect firsthand tions on the export of industrial technology to the Soviets. Unfor- the polluted rivers and devastated forests. Funds for environ- tunately, the biggest barrier to such shipments is not export con- mental protection, about $24 billion this year, are projected to trols but the lack of hard currency. The U.S. cannot finance the reach $46.4 billion annually in the first half of the 1990s. At the Soviet drive to conserve energy and control pollution, but Ameri- same time, Gorbachev's regime has cracked down on polluters. ca should offer as much technical assistance as possible: The Sovi- Around Lake Baikal, about two dozen violations of ecological ets seem to be sincerely determined to clean up their act, and the standards have been referred to prosecutors. In Nizhni Tagil the U.S. should help out. -Reported by Ann Blackman/Moscow government has closed ten factories for failing to control toxic and Richard Hornik/Washington LUCHINE-OGONIOK-SYGMA TROUBLED WATERS: The once majestic Aral Sea may be gone in 20 years; studying the dried-up bed TIME, JANUARY 2, 1989 69 14 WYOMING The Fur Trade Territory 15 goods that he distributed generously along the way. Most of the tered Wyoming to trap and to explore. John Colter became the goods went for beaver skins. The servants, Souci and Morrison, first white American to reveal the wonders of Wyoming geogra- showed the Indians how to prepare the pelts. Larocque's phy, although there remains some doubt about where he went eagerness to promote the harvest of beaver led him to disregard and what he saw. Colter was with the Lewis and Clark expedi- the usual inhibitions about taking pelts in summer. At the end of tion as it returned in 1806 and encountered two trappers in his tour he reported that he had bought 122 beaver pelts "not in present-day North Dakota who persuaded Colter to go trapping consideration of what they were worth (because they are all with them. Since they could use Colter's knowledge of the summer skins) but in order to show to the savages the value that Montana country, the trappers offered to outfit him if he would I attach to the beaver skins and to the goods that we give enter a partnership with them. Lewis and Clark detached Colter them." With his superiors in mind he added that "at the same at the Mandan villages after exacting promises from all the other time I wished to be able to prove that there are beaver in this members of the expedition that they would not ask for the same region. privilege. Larocque learned that while beaver dams adorned the whole Presumably Colter and his partners trapped in the Crow length of the Powder River, it might take some time to convince country of northern Wyoming. They did not prosper; perhaps the Indians of the value of the beaver trade. He wrote in a clas- they quarreled. In the spring of 1807 Colter paddled a canoe sic understatement that some of the natives "seemed to desire down the Missouri all by himself until he met a fur trade party that I go away." The Indians hinted that the twenty-three pelts of forty-two men led by Manuel Lisa, prominent Spanish fur Larocque had taken up to that time were "a great many more trader out of Saint Louis, at the mouth of the Platte. For the sec- than we needed." The Indians, like whites who were to come ond time Colter postponed his return to Saint Louis. Lisa's party and endure fur trapping for only a short time, disliked trapping included three other veterans of Lewis and Clark's expedition- beaver for money. George Drouillard, John Potts, and Peter Wiser-who probably The Larocque Journal includes other information that prob- had a hand in arranging for Colter's employment by Lisa. ably interested his employers: the fact that the Snake Indians The Lisa party arrived in October at the confluence of the Big placed great value on blue beads, that the Powder River was Horn and Yellowstone rivers, where some of the men built a always muddy and "scarcely drinkable," that August nights trading post and others trapped, and where John Colter received could get very cold along the Powder, and that many buffalo, a special assignment to search for Crow Indians in northwestern deer, antelope, and bear lived in the area, although the land be- Wyoming and invite them to the new trading post. Presumably tween the Powder and the Little Missouri was remarkably dry he found one village and learned there about others. He carried and had "scarcely any vegetation." a thirty-pound pack loaded with items with which he could win Larocque did in fact go away and stay away, though not for good will and hire guide service. When Lisa gave Colter this as- the Indians' reasons. When he said farewell to his hosts on Sep- signment he unwittingly marked him for future fame, for in con- tember 14, he asked them to "kill beaver and bear during the ducting the search he discovered what came to be called Col- whole winter" because he would return the following autumn ter's Hell, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone Park. with all the trade goods they desired. However, the North West The official Journals of Lewis and Clark, published in 1814, Company decided to concentrate on expanding in Canada for included a map of their route with a dotted line added to show the time being, and Larocque never came back to Wyoming. where Colter went. On this map the topography around Colter's But absence of the French Canadians was more than compen- route is peculiar in several respects, which should not be sur- sated for by the succeeding rash of white Americans who en- prising, considering that Colter made a 500-mile hike in the 16 WYOMING The Fur Trade Territory 17 dead of winter, kept no notes, had never done any mapping, For some years few people believed the Colter stories about conveyed his information to William Clark from memory three the wonders of northwestern Wyoming. Then the Blackfeet In- years later, and died before he had a chance to check the map. dians and a German-born, New York-based fur trader unwit- However, the map bears too much resemblance to modern maps tingly combined forces to send many more whites through of the area to be dismissed as imaginary. Particularly significant Wyoming in one year than had been there in all previous years. is the presence of two large lakes corresponding to Jackson John Jacob Astor, head of the American Fur Company and its and Yellowstone lakes and a large river flowing north out of one, subsidiary, the Pacific Fur Company, sent Wilson Price Hunt as the Yellowstone River does. overland in 1811 to take charge of a trading post which a sea- The thermal activity observed by Colter, to which the name borne party was building at Astoria, Oregon, at the mouth of the "Colter's Hell' was later applied, was on the Shoshone River Columbia. Hunt's expedition, known as the Overland Astorians, just west of present Cody, Wyoming. Little thermal activity was the first expedition to cross the continent after Lewis and occurs there now, but there is evidence to indicate that there Clark. Astor's original plan called for Hunt to follow the route could have been a good deal of it in Colter's time. Colter might of Lewis and Clark, but fear of the Blackfeet in Montana caused have seen hot springs and geysers at West Thumb but he missed him to leave the Missouri River at the Arikara villages at the by at least twenty miles the major geyser basins of what became present line of the South Dakota-North Dakota border and head Yellowstone Park. toward the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. Three Lisa vet- The National Park Service Museum at Moose in Jackson Hole erans-John Hoback, Jacob Reznor, and Edward Robinson— exhibits a rhyolite lava stone, thirteen inches long, on which is who had recently come in across northern Wyoming and had carved "John Colter" and "1808." An Idaho farmer plowed up joined Hunt's party, recommended the change of plan. Perhaps this stone in 1931 just west of Jackson Hole. There is no way to John Colter, who had talked to Hunt in Missouri, also suggested establish the authenticity of the stone. that the Blackfeet should be avoided. Almost as well known as his discovery of the Yellowstone After trading their boats for horses at the Arikara villages, the Park area is Colter's footrace later in 1808 northwest of Yellow- Astorians began their overland journey in July 1811. Many of stone Park. Captured by Blackfeet Indians, Colter was given an them had to walk because most of the horses were loaded with opportunity to run for his life. Stripped naked and hotly pur- packs of merchandise for the trading post at Astoria. As it ex- sued, he ran six miles to a stream where he concealed himself in tended along the Grand River in northern South Dakota, the cara- driftwood until nightfall when very quietly he stole away. Seven van included sixty-two men, one woman, and two children. days later he arrived at Lisa's fort with sore feet and a sun- The party must have crawled slowly from day to day as it burned back. wended up the rivers and across the grassy plains, a landscape After other narrow escapes Colter returned to Missouri in stirred by occasional dust devils in the summertime and broken 1810, got married, and settled down on a farm. Probably the up only occasionally by landmarks like Devils Tower, the rocky mountains would have lured him back sooner or later, had he volcanic core that can be seen for twenty miles across the not died of yellow jaundice in 1813. In 1976 the splendid Colter plains. Making and breaking camp with such a multitude must Bay tourist facilities on Jackson Lake made an impressive me- have been an enormous undertaking, but not entirely unpleasant morial for this heroic discoverer of the area. His fame all over in the early stages when the party was well-stocked with sup- the country has made many people think of remote, sparsely plies. Then there would have been rich moments around the settled Wyoming, something that practically no one was doing campfire, since two-thirds of the men were French Canadians, in Colter's own time. who, Washington Irving said, were "ever ready to come to a CARSON STATE BK Wyoming 06/08/89 10:24 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 004 001 INFERED United States Department of the Interior a NATIONAL PARK SERVICE the M P.O. BOX 37127 WASHINGTON, D.C. 20013-7127 IN REPLY REFER TO: DATE: 6/8/89 TIME: 10:25 NUMBER OF PAGES TO FOLLOW. 7 456-6218 TO: BOB SIMON WH FROM: MOLLY Ross, AIR QUALITY DIV. SUBJECT: SUMMARIES OF PARK AIR QUALITY REMARKS: CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS (343-4911) 06/08/89 10:25 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 004 002 Prepared for: President Bush BRIEFING STATEMENT Submitted: June 8. 1989 TITLE: Air Quality in Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Other National Parks (NPs) ISSUE: Air pollution effects on national park resources. STATUS: The National Park Service has been monitoring rain chemistry at Yellowstone since 1980 and other air quality parameters since 1987. Some monitoring was also conducted at Grand Teton from 1983-1986. These parks have some of the best visibility and lowest pollutant levels anywhere in the United States. However, both parks contain sensitive visual, aquatic, and alpine resources. For example, given the relatively pristine visual air quality (visibil- ity ranges from 100-250 km and averages 180 km) even small increases in fine particles (e.g., sulfates) would be noticeable. Ozone and sulfur dioxide levels at Yellowstone are below the national standards, but ozone levels may be high enough to injure sensitive vegetation. No specific studies have been done in Yellowstone to determine whether air pollution is affecting vegetation. DEPARTMENT POSITION: The Clean Air Act gives Federal Land Managers an affirmative responsibility to protect air quality related values in "class I" areas (including Yellowstone and Grand Teton NPs) from adverse impacts. The Act also establishes a national goal of remedying existing and preventing future visibility impairment in such areas. The Department places a high priority on protecting park resources from the adverse effects of air pollution. ISSUE BACKGROUND: The NPS operates and maintains a large network of over 60 monitoring stations throughout the country, including in Yellowstone and Grand Teton NPs, which provides information on visibility, ozone, sulfur dioxide, and acid rain. Monitoring data indicate that national parks, including some in remote areas, are not immune to elevated levels of pollution. For example, ozone levels above the national health and welfare standards have occurred in several parks (e.g., Santa Monica Mountains NRA, Sequoia NP, Shenandoah NP, Indiana Dunes NL, Cuyahoga Valley NRA), including remote parks like Acadia NP. Aoadia had ozone levels that were above the national standards by 60 percent at least six times during the summer of 1988. Ozone injury has been found on native vegetation in many parks, including some areas where levels are below the national standards. Visibility monitoring has shown that in excess of 90 percent of the time, scenic vistas are impaired to some extent by marmade pollution at all monitoring sites. The best visibility generally occurs in the West (i.e., Colorado Plateau, Rocky Mountain, and Great Basin areas). The worst visibility occurs in the East, with the worst visibility monitored in NPS units occurring at Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains NPs. Sulfates are responsible for 40-70 % of the visibility degradation in national parks throughout the country, except in the Pacific Northwest, where smoke-related materials dominate. PROGRAM CONTACT: John P. Christiano, Chief, Air Quality Division, National Park Service, Telephone (303) 969-2070 or FTS 327-2070. A/3 SURNAME: 06/08/89 10:26 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 004 003 Enclosure 2 Highlights and Updates Air Quality in the National Parks May 1989 Ozone levels and impacts: Since the National Park Service began monitoring ozone in selected parks in the 1980's, ozone concentrations have approached or exceeded the national ambient air quality standard in several park units, including remote "rural" parks (e.g., Acadia, Sequoia, Great Smoky Mountains, Shenandoah, Channel Islands, Joshua Tree, Mammoth Cave, Pinnacles, Guadalupe Mountains) as well as parks closer to urban areas (e.g., Saguaro, Indiana Dunes, Cuyahoga Valley, Santa Monica Mountains). During the summer 1988 ozone episode that affected the eastern United States, many eastern parks monitored very high ozone concentrations (e.g., Acadia - 179 ppb; Shenandoah - 151 ppb; Mammoth Cave - 140 ppb; Cape Cod - 182 ppb; Cuyahoga Valley - 164 ppb), threatening not only park biological resources but also visitors' health. The attached maps, one for 1987 and one for 1988, show the highest hourly ozone concentrations at our ozone monitors for the indicated years. Visible ozone injury affects vegetation in most of the approximately fifty park units surveyed, including units where the national ambient air quality standard for ozone has not been exceeded. For example, various species of pine (Jeffrey, ponderosa, Eastern white) have been shown to be affected by ambient levels of ozone in various parks. Also, preliminary experiments indicate that high levels of ozone can affect root and shoot growth of sequoia seedlings. Narrower than expected genetic diversity of ozone-sensitive species has been found in certain park areas. The absence of sensitive genotypes of quaking aspen in parks with high ozone concentrations may be indicative of an "unnatural" selection process. Visibility: Air pollution causes varying degrees of visibility impairment at all park monitoring stations virtually all the time. Sulfates are the single most important contributor to visibility impairment in park units except in the northwestern United States, where fine carbon plays a more prominent role. For example, sulfates are responsible for approximately 70 percent of the overall visibility impairment in Shenandoah National Park and 50 percent in the Colorado plateau parks (e.g., Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands), and sulfates can play an even greater role in significant visibility degradation episodes. NPS modeling studies show that the sulfates impairing park visibility can originate long distances away and accumulate regionally; under other meteorological conditions, these pollutants can originate from local sources. For example, NPS studies of the Grand Canyon show that in the summertime, when visibility at the park is the worst on the average, the park's visibility is primarily affected by regional, often long-distant sulfate-laden pollution; whereas in the wintertime, when visibility at the park 18 the best on the average, the Grand Canyon can nevertheless suffer extreme visibility degradation episodes caused by local large sources whose sulfur emissions are trapped and transformed under common stagnation conditions. The attached map shows fine sulfur concentrations from the NPS visibility monitoring stations for the 1984-1986 period. The figures indicate that fine sulfur concentrations in the East are nearly an order of magnitude higher than fine sulfur concentrations in the West. Correspondingly, typical visibility conditions in many eastern park areas are considerably more degraded than in 06/08/89 10:26 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 004 004 2 most western park areas. Nevertheless, the median visibility conditions at panoramic western parks are perceptibly degraded from natural conditions, and visibility degradation episodes can obscure the views significantly. The Service's view monitoring, using 35mm cameras, documents this degradation, and the Service has assembled the resulting alides into sets of "spectrum slides" for approximately 40 parks. These slides graphically illustrate the difference in the views on the best, worst, and average days. Finally, many western park areas are particularly sensitive to increases in fine particulate (e.g., sulfate) pollution, since relatively small additions of fine particles to a clean atmosphere can dramatically degrade the visibility. The Service has not been monitoring visibility for a sufficient time period to establish long-term trends. However, National Weather Service data show that average summertime visibility over much of the eastern United States has decreased since 1948 more than 50 percent to a current visual range of less than 25 kilometers. In the Great Smoky Mountains, median summertime visibility is less than twelve kilometers, compared to an estimated natural visibility of approximately 60 kilometers. Seasonal trends have been documented at all NPS monitoring sites, with more extensive visibility degradation occurring in the summer than in the winter. Aquatic Resource Effects: Through participation in the National Acid Deposition Program for monitoring wet deposition, the Service has identified areas receiving very acidic deposition and has documented regional trends and gradients. For example, monitoring shows that Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks has received wet deposition with concentrations of nitrate and sulfate that are two and five times higher, respectively, than in remote parts of the world. NPS research has documented the vulnerability to acidification of many park lakes and streams, with the subsequent threatened loss of biological species dependent on the potentially affected aquatic resources. Many park units are located in areas with low buffering capacity and, therefore, subject to damage if deposition depletes this reserve. In the West, for example, most low alkalinity lakes and streams occur in the glaciated, high elevation and subalpine zones of the numerous mountain ranges which are home to many parks and wilderness areas. In these areas, watersheds are small, with steep slopes and thin, acidic soils. The lowest alkalinity waters are associated most often with granitic and gneissic rock types but may also be found in volcanic areas and certain sedimentary areas. Research in Shenandoah National Park has shown that a monitored stream-predicted for near-term acidification based on the limited sulfate adsorption capacity of its associated soils--has actually become approximately three times more acidic over a six-year period, as elevated concentrations of loosely-bound sulfate have been washed out of the soils and into the stream. At Isle Royale National Park, and in forested ecosystems throughout the upper Midwest, sulfate is minimally adsorbed to the soil, suggesting that nutrient leaching is possible in many of these systems, and that the sulfate mobility could be accelerating ecosystem acidification. Preliminary data show an increase in nutrient leaching across the region. Parks have also documented instances of temporary increases in the acidity of park lakes and streams following acid rain events. Studies show, for example, that high elevation waters in the Sierra Nevada are being temporarily acidified 06/08/89 10:27 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 004 005 3 during spring snowmelts and following acidic summer storms. Cultural Resource Effects: The overwhelming majority of the nation's historic properties are found in urban areas. Historic buildings and monuments in eastern cities are presently exposed to less sulfur dioxide but to more acid in rain than in the first three quarters of the 20th century. Research to determine the impact of air pollutants on park cultural resources has been undertaken at Mesa Verde (1983-1988), Gettysburg (1986-1989), and Independence (since 1984). Sulfur dioxide pollution at Independence National Historical Park is five times greater than at Gettysburg National Military Park, which is 20 times greater than at Mesa Verde National Park (since several copper smelters have shut down). Rain acidity (hydrogen ion) and sulfur dioxide are known to accelerate the decay of limestone, marble, some sandstones, and bronze. As both sulfur dioxide concentrations and rain acidity increases, so do marble erosion rates. Together, these pollutants may account for 20-25 percent of marble loss through dissolution. In other words, the lifespan of marble buildings and monuments may be decreased by one- fifth to one-fourth. In areas protected from rain, the sulfates tend to accumulate and cause discoloration and eventually spalling (fracturing). There is some evidence that other pollutants (e.g., nitrogen oxides and airborne particulate matter) also play a role in accelerating stone decay. Laboratory studies in Sweden indicate that in the presence of nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide uptake by limestone is substantially increased. Findings by research groups in Italy and the United States indicate that fly ash and particulate matter play a major role in pollution-related stone decay. Bronzes corrode in the presence of sulfur pollutants, converting orignial bronze surfaces to green and black streaks and pits, corrosion products that are generally thought to be disfiguring. Below pH 4, these corrosion products dissolve at an increased rate, removing original material and increasing staining of masonry materials, such as statue bases and walls. Effects on Park Visitors: Air pollution can affect the experience of park visitiors. With respect to visitors' health, ozone concentrations in several parks approach or exceed the national ambient air quality standard set to protect human health. With respect to visitors' welfare, NPS research has documented that an environment undisturbed by man, including clean, clear air, is very important to park visitors. Degradation of such an environment threatens a decrease not only in the level of inspiration and sense of well-being of park visitors, but also in the amount of time and money park visitors are willing to spend at affected park areas. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE HIGHEST HOURLY OZONE CONCENTRATIONS 1988 - ppb 10:28 68/80/90 (NO. OF DAYS WITH HOURLY CONCENTRATIONS OVER 125) 50(0) 93(0) 79(5 100(0) 77(0) 102(11 68(0) 72(0) NPS-18TH & C ST. 89(0) 58(0) 136(3) 119(0) 119(0) 164(6) e 127(1) B (8(0) e 127(1) 76(#) 140(5) 151(2) 118(0) 204(36) NO. 004 140(4) 67(0) 100(0) 124(0) 900 1160 56(0) 107(0) 68/80/90 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE HIGHEST HOURLY OZONE CONCENTRATIONS 1987 - ppb (NO. OF DAYS WITH HOURLY CONCENTRATIONS OVER 125) 10:28 80(0) 66(0) (59(0) 60(0) 160(1) 88(0) 40(0) 41(0) 1150 NPS-18TH & C ST. $1(0) 133(2) 120(0) 145(3) 105(0) 146(5) 64(0) 12 138(4) 20501 195($5) 106(0) NO. 004 148(10) 116(0) 82(0) 155(2) 200 23(0) & 63(0) NPS SAMPLING SITES 10:29 68/80/90 FINE SULFUR CONCENTRATIONS (ng/m3) June 1984 - May 1986 279 c 252 222 A 418 811 563 or NPS-18TH & C ST. 137 179 210 283 139 271 180 291 o 273 280 1669 NO. 004 298 240 282 337 265 343 1738 o A 407 o 1289 382 800 547 A 525 477 562 06/08/89 10:45 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO.006 002 KNOWN VISIBILITY EFFECTS IN NATIONAL PARK UNITS May 1985 Introduction Visibility monitoring has shown that in excess of 90% of the time scenic vistas are affected by man-made pollution at all National Park Service (NPS) monitor- ing locations within the lower 48 United States. Even in remote areas such as Grand Canyon National Park, visitors sometimes cannot see the opposite canyon rim or the canyon depths because of poor visibility. At Yosemite National Park, smoke from fires sometimes obscures the view of the well known massive cliffs and domes. In Shenandoah National Park, the "Blue Ridge" often appears an unnatural white, gray, or brown, and in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the natural haze is usually overwhelmed by man-made haze. A brief synopsis of the NPS visibility program follows. Visibility Monitoring Visibility monitoring has evolved from human observer-based measurements to the use of complex, but highly accurate, automated electro-optical instruments. Over the past years a number of federal agencies have operated and maintained visibility monitoring programs as follows: o The longest historical visibility data record is based on the furth- est distance large natural targets can be seen. The National Weather Service has recorded "observer determined visual range" at airports since 1948. o The National Park Service has established 35 long-term visibility monitoring sites at various remote locations throughout the lower 48 states. The NPS monitoring program was initiated in 1978 at fourteen National Park Service units in the Southwest. Shortly thereafter, visibility monitoring sites were added in the northern Great Plains and northern Rocky Mountains, and in Acadia, Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks. Most recently, visibility monitors have been deployed at parks in the Pacific Northwest and in California. o The Bureau of Land Management, United States Forest Service, Electric Power Research Institute and other utility industries have operated shorter term visibility monitoring programs. Most monitoring programs incorporate, at a minimum, a celeradiometer measuring sky-target contrast at 550 nanometers (green wavelength), a 35 millimeter camera system, and a size selective fine particulate monitor. 06/08/89 10:45 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 006 003 Visibility Monitoring Results The National Weather Service data, although not specifically analyzed for visibility trends within national parks, shows long-term trends for geographic regions that include a number of national park units. Results of this analysis show the following: o Summertime visibility over much of the eastern United States has decreased since 1948 more than fifty percent to a current visual range of less than 25 kilometers (km). In the Great Smoky Mountains, median summer visibility is less than 10 km. o Although visibility in California's urban and industrial centers has improved since 1967-1968, visibility in California pristine areas has decreased from 1959 to 1976. It is important to note that in order to simplify the discussion on this com- plex subject, all the optical data from the visibility monitoring sites has been portrayed in terms of standard visual range, a measure of how far one can see. However, standard visual range is only one of several visibility indices that should be considered in evaluating the degradation of scenic views. Al- though standard visual range values indicate how far one can see, they do not necessarily indicate how well one can see specific vista features. Other indices would consider color, texture, and proximity of the scene. Although the NPS monitoring network has not been operated over 8 sufficient time period to establish long-term trends, it does yield information on season- al and spatial variation in visibility, as follows: o Computations using data at all monitoring locations indicate that even at & specific site, there is a wide range in the estimated standard visual range. Appendix I, attached, lists the standard visual ranges at the 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (e.g., at the 10th percentile the visibility is equal to or less than the listed value 10% of the time, or one day out of 10). o The standard visual ranges given in Appendix I also indicate that there is great variability (a) from park to park, and (b) among seasons, with the summer visual air quality generally the worst and the winter the best. o Atmospheric pollution concentrations are highest during summer months and lowest during winter season. O The above points are illustrated in the monitoring results for Grand Canyon National Park as shown in Figure 1. The variations in stand- ard visual range are consistent with the higher pollution concentra- tions in both fine and coarse mass during summer months and lower pollution concentrations during winter months. The higher concentra- tion of particulates is responsible for reduced visual range. Fur- thermore, the difference in the scenic view between the 90th percent- ile standard visual range and the 10th percentile is significant. The 10th percentile at Grand Canyon National Park is a visual range of 105 km, a level at which many features in Grand Canyon cannot be seen, the colors of nearby vistas are washed out and some textural features are lost. -2- 06/08/89 10:46 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 006 004 300 04 SI TANDARD VISUAL HANGE 200 FINE SULFUN (µg/m³) 0.2 01 100 0.0 WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER SPRING SUMMER FALL SEASON SEASON Figure la. Figure 1b. 4.5 7.5 MASS I 1pg/m3) 30 SE MASS 1 μg/m³) 5.0 06/08/89 10:46 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 006 005 o Eastern visibility degradation from man-made pollution is significant- ly worse than western visibility degradation. Summertime visual range in the East is typically less than 25 km. A map of visual ranges in the western United States for summer 1982 is shown in Figure 2 (Note: numbers on this map should be compared to the best possible visibility, which is 391 km.). The highest average visual range (180 km), occurs in the northern parts of Nevada and Utah and the southern portion of Idaho. The region with the next highest average visual range (165 km), corresponds to that geographic area that contains Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon and Canyonlands National Parks, commonly known as the Colorado Plateau. Southern Arizona, New Mexico, and the "Front Range" area of the Rocky Mountains have an average visual range of 140 km. The lowest visual range in the west- ern United States is found in California. o The NPS has also documented "pockets" of wintertime layered haze at Bryce Canyon and Mesa Verde National Parks. On winter mornings, for instance, portions of Navajo Mountain as seen from Bryce Canyon were completely or partially obscured as much as 80% of the time. Particulate Monitoring Results Fine particles (smaller than 2.5 micrometers in diameter, i.e., one-tenth the diameter of a fine human hair) are generally responsible for a major share of visibility impairment. The National Park Service fine particulate monitoring program shows the following: o In most national park units the largest single contributor to fine mass is sulfates which make up 30 to 40% of the fine mass in the western parks and 40 to 60% of the fine mass in the eastern parks. Sulfates are "derivative" pollutants, formed in the atmosphere through the transformation of gaseous sulfur oxide emissions. o Generally, southern Arizona, southern New Mexico, and the Big Bend area of Texas have the highest fraction (greater than 40%) of the fine mass as sulfates. In the Great Plains, Colorado Plateau area, and southern California, the proportion of sulfates is between 30 and 40%, while in the remainder of the western U.S., where there is sufficient data to report, the sulfates to fine mass ratio is near 20%. Finally, Shenandoah National Park, an eastern park, shows a 56% sulfates to fine mass ratio. For the western United States, the percent of fine mass that is sulfates for the year 1983 is shown in Figure 3. In the western United States, the highest sulfur concentrations are found in southern California, Arizona, and New Mexico and in the Big Bend area of Texas. Lowest year-round sulfur concentrations were found in northern California and southern Oregon. These spatial variations in sulfur corcentration in the western United States for summer 1983 are shown in Figure 4. -4- 06/08/89 10:47 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO.006 006 60 80 00 120 120 00 80 63 127 43 23 on 40 122 20 68 133 160 163 109 180 135 185 134 150 140 40 140 160 153 0-24 144 187 177 3 179 39 167 24 162 154 170 167 50 177 160 147 158 20 40 60 124 60 OCi 144 120 140 146 140 Figure 2. Isopleths of Standard Visual Range over the western United States for Summer, 1982. -5- 06/08/89 10:48 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 006 007 30% 19% 38% 20% 016% 34% 017% 20% 23% 018% 22%0 32% 36% 32% 29% 35% 40% 23%0 38% 39% 40% 37% 32% 35% 35% 30% 36% 38% 42% 41% 40% 45% Figure 3. Isopleths of fine sulfate to fine mass ratio in western United States for Summer. 1983. -a- 06/08/89 10:48 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO.006 008 NPS PARTICULATE MONITORING NETWORK JUN - AUG 1983 (SUMMER) CONTOUR MAP OF FINE SULFUR 200 300 380 400 _200 280 470 . 250 200 190 250 - 430 300 290 B 100 500 500 350 390 440 500 5 460 520 350 470 SSO . 029 500 SCO 600 R 700 800 900 CONTOUR LINES SHOW REGIONS OF EGUAL CONCENTRATIONS BASED ON INDICATED AVERAGES IN NANOGRAMS/M--3. CONTOUR LEVELS AT EVERY 100 NANDGRAMS/M.3. Figure 4. Isopleths of Sulfur Concentrations in western United States for Summer, 1983. -7- 06/08/89 10:49 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO. 006 009 Causes of Visibility Impairment Visibility data, when combined with particulate composition and concentration, allow for developing an understanding of which of the many atmospheric constit- uents are responsible for visibility reduction ("light extinction budgets"). Because different size particles reduce visibility with varying degrees of efficiency, it does not automatically follow that an aerosol species making up a cettain fraction of total mass will be responsible for that same fraction of visibility reduction. Sulfates are especially important contributors to visi- bility impairment because their size usually makes them very effective scatter- ers of light. Therefore, the relative contribution of sulfates to visibility reduction can be significantly greater than their percentage contribution to the total airborne mass. Statistical analysis of currently available visibili- ty and particulate data show the following: Sulfates are the single most important contributor to visibility impairment in NPS units except in the northwestern United States, where fine carbon plays a more prominent role. In the Colorado Plateau, an area containing Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and Canyonlands National Parks as well as a number of other park units, sulfates are responsible for 40 to 60% of visibility impairment. o In Shenandoah National Park, sulfates appear to be responsible for over 70% of visibility degradation. On the average, soil-related ("crustal") material is responsible for 10-30% of the visibility impairment. Typically, 20% of the visibility reduction is associated with other fine mass, which is comprised of organic carbon, elemental carbon, and nitrates. Appendix II, attached, summarizes the relative importance of various particu- lates to visibility reduction at several national park units. 06/08/89 10:50 NPS-18TH & C ST. NO.006 010 APPENDIX I Standard Visual Ranges at the 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles at a number of NPS monitoring sites. The visual range numbers listed in this table reflect the effects of meteorological conditions as well as atmospheric pollution. STANDARD VISUAL RANGE (KM) : FREQUENCY OF OCCURENCE (%) Winter 1982 Summer 1982 SITE 10% 50% 90% 10% 50% 90% Acadia NP 40 76 146 40 75 140 Bandelier NM 112 207 379 107 166 257 Big Bend. NP 93 186 374 79 139 242 Bryce Canyon NP 163 274 * 113 159 222 Canyonlands NP 80 204 * 125 176 247 Capitol Reef NP 100 212 * 106 160 242 Capulin Mountain NM 155 253 * 89 140 221 Chaco Culture NHP 159 233 342 139 177 226 Chiricahua NM 128 228 * 80 139 240 Colorado NM 122 223 * - - - Craters of the Moon NM - - - 109 170 265 Death Valley NM 119 214 384 65 110 185 Grand Canyon NP 156 259 * 105 153 223 Grand Teton NP 77 128 213 81 127 198 Great Smoky Mountains NP 2** 67** 176** 5** 24** 47** Guadalupe Mountains NP 137 175 222 90 129 185 Joshua Tree NM - - - 64 113 200 Lassen Volcanic NP - $0 - 84 143 242 Lehman Caves NM - - - 120 188 293 Mesa Verde NP 184 241 316 117 162 226 Navajo NM 160 241 363 102 155 221 Olympic NP - - 1 36 65 117 Rocky Mountain NP 95 169 299 64 118 216 Shenandoah NP - - I 3 17 78 Theodore Roosevelt NP 59 122 249 72 122 206 Wind Cave NP - 1 - 70 123 217 Wupatki NM 92 186 376 86 141 232 Yellowstone NP 90 184 376 - - - * Indicates undefined ** IVA data -9- 011 APPENDIX II. Chaco Theodore NO. 006 PARK: Grand Canyon Bryce Canyon Canyonlands Culture Roosevelt Blg Bend Shenandoah % VISIBILITY IMPAIRMENT DUE TO: Sulfate 63% 61% 66% 36% 49% 64% 76% -10- Other Fine Mass 17% 23% 10% 23% 32% 17% -- NPS-18TH & C ST. Coarse Mass 20% 16% 24% 41% 19% 19% -- 10:50 68/80/90 JUN- 5-89 MON 15:42 P.01 Box 101700 Walter J. Hickel Anchorage. Alaska 095/0-1700 907-270-7400 FAX TRANSMITTAL DATE: June 5, 1989 Edward E. McNally TO: ATTENTION: (If applicable) FAX NUMBER: 202/456-6218 (if International, Include Intl'l(011), country, & city code) COMPANY: The White House 122 OEOB, Washington, DC ADDRESS: FROM: Walter J. Hickel NUMBER OF PAGES INCLUDING THIS PAGE: 10 IF YOU EXPERIENCE ANY PROBLEMS RECEIVING THIS FAX, PLEASE CALL US AT (907) 276-7400. OUR TELEFAX NUMBER IS (907) 258-4857 THIS FAX WAS SENT BY: Yvonne ... further to my conversation with Mead Treadwell.. ... JUN- 5-89 MON 15:43 P.02 THE IRVINE LECTURES BY WALTER J. HICKEL LECTURE NO. 4 - October 1976 THE EMPTINESS OF THE WORLD LAST WEEK WE TOOK A LOOK AT A RE-DEFINITION OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND DISCUSSED HOW OUR SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT CAN BE MADE TO RESPOND TO THE PROBLEMS WE HAVE. THIS WEEK WE ARE GOING TO LOOK AT AN ISSUE THAT TOTALLY FASCINATES ME. THE ISSUE IS THE QUESTION OF LIMITS. WHAT LIMITATIONS ARE THERE ON THE EARTH ... ON MAN ... ON THE HUMAN CAPACITY TO CREATE? AS YOU MAY HAVE GATHERED BY NOW, I DO NOT SUBSCRIBE TO THE PHILOSOPHY OF GLOOM AND DOOM. FROM TIME TO TIME HEADLINES PREDICT THE END OF THE WORLD. THEY SAY WE ARE RUNNING OUT OF SPACE WE ARE RUNNING OUT OF RESOURCES WE ARE RUNNING OUT OF EVERYTHING. AN EXAMPLE OF THIS ATTITUDE WAS THE CLUB OF ROME. THIS GROUP WAS MADE UP OF VERY PRESTIGIOUS, HIGHLY INTELLECTUAL MEN. THEY FED WHAT THEY WANTED TO FEED INTO A COMPUTER. AND THE COMPUTER ANSWERED THAT THE WORLD WOULD SOON BE PICKED CLEAN OF ALL RESOURCES. THEIR SOLUTION WAS TO LIMIT GROWTH. I IMMEDIATELY CHALLENGED THE CLUB OF ROME. I CHALLENGED IT PUBLICLY. IF THE HUNGRY AND THE NEEDY OF THE WORLD ARE TO BE CARED FOR IF MAN IS TO BE MAN IF CULTURES ARE STILL TO BE CREATED THERE MUST BE GROWTH. THE CLUB OF ROME HAD BEEN GUILTY, LIKE THE ROMANS OF CENTURIES AGO, OF DECIDING THAT BECAUSE THEY WERE COMFORTABLE THEY EXPECTED THEIR SLAVES AND THEIR OTHER PEOPLE TO BE CONTENT. JUN- 5-89 MON 15:43 P.03 4/2 LAST APRIL THE CLUB OF ROME ANNOUNCED IT HAD MADE A 180 DEGREE TURN. I'M GLAD THEY'VE TURNED AROUND. BUT THE PUBLIC, AND ESPECIALLY SOME EDUCATORS, HAVE BEEN HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY THEIR ORIGINAL PROCLAMATION. IT APPALLS ME WHEN OUR SCHOOL CHILDREN ARE TAUGHT THAT IT IS SINFUL TO USE RESOURCES. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY TO STUNT THE ASPIRATIONS OF A GENERATION ... NO BETTER WAY TO UNDERCUT THEIR DESIRE, CLOUD THEIR DREAMS, AND DAMPEN THEIR HOPES. IT'S ESPECIALLY BAD, BECAUSE IT IS so UNREAL. IT IS RIDICULOUS TO SAY WE ARE RUNNING OUT OF RESOURCES. WE HAVEN'T EVEN SCRATCHED THE SURFACE OF WHAT GOD PUT ON EARTH AND WHAT GOD PUT IN MAN. THE WEAKNESS OF PREDICTING THE FUTURE WITH A COMPUTER IS THAT IT CAN ONLY COMPUTE ON THE BASIS OF WHAT IS KNOWN. WHAT IF WE HAD USED A COMPUTER 200 YEARS AGO TO FORECAST ENERGY RESOURCES FOR TODAY? AT THAT TIME MAN DEPENDED ON FIREWOOD, HORSES, WATER, AND WIND. THE COMPUTER WOULD HAVE FORECAST DOOM AND STARVATION, BECAUSE THERE AREN'T ENOUGH TREES AND HORSES ON EARTH TO CARE FOR THE NEEDS OF TODAY'S POPULATION. COMPUTERS HAVE THEIR PLACE, BUT I HAVE MORE FAITH IN THE CREATIVE CAPACITY OF MAN ... AND THAT IS UNCOMPUTABLE. DON'T LISTEN TO THOSE WHO TELL YOU THERE ARE NO MORE TOOLS TO WORK WITH NO MORE OPPORTUNITIES TO EXPLORE NO MORE FRONTIERS TO CHALLENGE. THEY ARE EVERYWHERE. THE GREAT FRONTIER OF TOMORROW WILL BE TO DISCOVER THE WORLD'S EMPTINESS. IT CAN BE so EASY FOR THE WORLD TO HANDLE FIVE, SIX, OR SEVEN BILLION PEOPLE. JUN 5-89 MON 15:44 P.04 4/3 SHOCKING? IT'S NOT SHOCKING. IF YOU FACE THE SITUATION AS IT IS AND IF YOU HAVEN'T LOST YOUR CAPACITY TO IMAGINE OR TO CARE. IN THE LAST CHAPTER OF WHO OWNS AMERICA?, I TOUCH ON THE ISSUE OF WORLD POPULATION. BASED ON THE PREDICTIONS OF POPULATION EXPERTS, CARTOONISTS PICTURE MANKIND STANDING BACK TO BACK ON EVERY AVAILABLE INCH OF GROUND. THIS IS so UNREAL. BUT PEOPLE BELIEVE IT. THE DAMAGING RESULT IS THAT IT BREEDS A VERY NEGATIVE ATTITUDE ESPECIALLY ABOUT PEOPLE. ONCE AGAIN, MAN IS SEEN AS THE ENEMY. HAVE YOU EVER MET A POPULATION EXPERT WHO WAS AN OPTIMIST? WELL YOU HAVE NOW. IT MAY SOUND LIKE I AM ATTACKING THE TEN COMMANDMENTS BUT MY THOUGHTS ARE MY OWN, AND I AM CONVINCED THEY WILL STAND THE TEST OF TIME. I AM NOT SAYING THAT THERE AREN'T PROBLEMS CONNECTED WITH POPULATION. BUT THOSE PROBLEMS AREN'T WHAT MOST PEOPLE THINK THEY ARE. A GREATER PERCENTAGE OF THE WORLD'S POPULATION STARVED TO DEATH A THOUSAND YEARS AGO THAN TODAY. THE ISSUE IS ONE OF DISTRIBUTION OF RESOURCES AND THE WISE USE OF WHAT WE HAVE AVAILABLE. THINK ABOUT IT FOR A MINUTE. EVERY PERSON ON EARTH, NOT JUST EVERY AMERICAN, BUT EVERY HUMAN BEING ON THE GLOBE, COULD EACH BE GIVEN 2,000 SQUARE FEET THAT'S THE EQUIVALENT OF A GOOD-SIZED HOUSE. A FAMILY WITH THREE CHILDREN WOULD HAVE 10,000 SQUARE FEET. YES, YOU COULD TAKE ALL THE PEOPLE ON EARTH GIVE EACH ONE THIS AMOUNT OF SPACE AND THEY WOULD ALL FIT IN THE STATE OF TEXAS. FIGURE IT OUT. TEXAS CONTAINS 262,970 SQUARE MILES. 5-89 MON 15:44 P.05 4/4 THAT EQUALS 7.3 TRILLION SQUARE FEET. THE WORLD POPULATION IS 4 BILLION. NO, IT'S NOT GOD'S FAULT THAT HE GAVE US TOO LITTLE LAND. IT'S OUR FAULT FOR NOT UTILIZING INTELLIGENTLY WHAT WE HAVE. IF YOU WANT TO GO BACK IN HISTORY, WHEN MAN FIRST CAME TO THIS EARTH, IT APPEARED TO BE CROWDED. HE SEEMED TO BE RUNNING OUT OF THINGS IN HIS LITTLE CAVE, OR THE ISOLATION OF HIS LITTLE SPOT ON EARTH. NOW, IN MODERN TIMES WE ARE LOCKED INTO A BEEHIVE CONCEPT OF LIVING. AND BECAUSE OF THAT CONCEPT, WE HAVE BECOME NEGATIVE AND PESSIMISTIC. IF YOU FLY OVER, OR JUST LOOK AT A MAP OF THE GREAT VACANT AREAS OF THE GLOBE, THEN YOU'LL UNDERSTAND WHAT I'M SAYING. WE'RE NOT GOING TO RUN OUT OF SPACE OR RESOURCES. THE ONLY THING WE MIGHT RUN OUT OF IS IMAGINATION. } THINK ABOUT THE OCEANS, THE OCEAN BOTTOM, THE JUNGLES, THE ARCTIC, AND THE ANTARCTIC. AS TO THE RESOURCES ON LAND, MAN HAS JUST SLID AROUND ON THE SKIN OF THE APPLE. WE HAVEN'T EVEN BEGUN TO THINK ABOUT THE CORE. IT MAY BE THAT I HAVE A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE BECAUSE OF THE AREA IN THE WORLD WHERE I LIVE. I HAVE SPENT MY ADULT LIFE IN THE ARCTIC AND IT'S HARD FOR THE REST OF AMERICA TO UNDERSTAND THE UNTOLD RICHES WAITING THERE. YOU ALREADY KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT NORTH SLOPE OIL. THIRTY BILLION BARRELS HAVE BEEN LOCATED IN THE REGION OF PRUDHOE BAY. THIS IS ENOUGH TO SUPPLY THE SOUTH 48 WITH TWO MILLION BARRELS A DAY FROM NOW UNTIL THE YEAR 2000. BUT THAT'S JUST THE BEGINNING. JUN- 5-89 MON 15:45 P.06 4/5 ESTIMATES OF OTHER ALASKA OIL RESERVES, BOTH ON- AND OFF- SHORE ADD ANOTHER 20 TO 30 BILLION BARRELS. AND NOW NINE OFF-SHORE CONTINENTAL SHELF AREAS ARE BEING LEASED BY THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT FOR OIL EXPLORATION. POTENTIAL RESERVES OUT TO A DEPTH OF 200 METERS, SWELL THE TOTAL OIL POTENTIAL BY ANOTHER 600-700 BILLION BARRELS. TO TOP ALL THIS, ALASKA'S COAL RESERVES MAY EXCEED A TRILLION TONS, AND NATURAL GAS ESTIMATES COME IN AT 238 TO 438 TRILLION CUBIC FEET. THIS IS NOT TO MENTION THE COPPER, NICLE, IRON, ZINC, AND ALL BUT ONE OF THE THIRTY MAJOR MINERALS USED BY MODERN INDUSTRY. BUT REMEMBER, I'M TALKING NOW ONLY ABOUT ALASKA AND ALASKA IS A SMALL PART OF THE WORLD ARCTIC. THE ARCTIC COVERS A TOTAL OF SOME TEN MILLION SQUARE MILES ON THE TOP OF THE GLOBE, EXTENDING ROUGHLY FROM THE 60TH PARALLEL UP AND ACROSS THE NORTH POLE. IN THIS REGION LIES ALMOST HALF OF CANADA, ALL OF GREENLAND AND ICELAND, PARTS OF SCANDINAVIA, AND AN INCREDIBLE SWEEP OF NORTHERN RUSSIA AND SIBERIA. IN AREA, IT'S AS BIG AS WESTERN EUROPE, THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES, JAPAN, INDIA, AND CHINA COMBINED NATIONS THAT SUPPORT TWO BILLION PEOPLE. ALASKA IS SEPARATED FROM THE REST OF THE UNITED STATES. THEREFORE ITS UNIQUE CHARACTER AND POTENTIAL IS ALIEN TO AMERICAN UNDERSTANDING. BUT OUR NEIGHBORS, THE CANADIANS, HAVE UNDERSTOOD THEIR ARCTIC, AND so HAVE THE RUSSIANS BECAUSE THEY HAVE HAD TO LIVE WITH IT. IT WAS THE RUSSIANS WHO WERE THE FIRST TO GRASP THE ARCTIC'S INCREDIBLE POTENTIAL. IRONICALLY, IT WAS AN AMERICAN WHO GAVE THEM THE IDEA. HIS NAME WAS PERRY MCDONOUGH COLLINS, A SAN FRANCISCO BUSINESSMAN IN THE 1850s. JUN- 5-89 MON 15:46 P.07 4/6 HE HAD AN ALMOST RELIGIOUS BELIEF IN THE DESTINY OF SIBERIA. COLLINS TRAVELLED SEVERAL TIMES ACROSS THE PACIFIC AND AMAZED AND DELIGHTED HIS HOSTS WITH HIS DREAMS OF OPENING UP WHAT WAS CONSIDERED BY CZARIST RUSSIA TO BE A HOSTILE COUNTRY FIT ONLY FOR CONVICTS. ONE OF THOSE WHOM COLLINS MET WAS COUNT AMURSKI, A DYNAMIC SOLDIER IN HIS LATE THIRTIES WHO COMPLETED THE CONQUEST OF SIBERIA BY WINNING THE VAST AMUR TERRITORY FROM CHINA. THE COUNT WAS SURROUNDED BY YOUNG OFFICERS WHO AT ONE POINT TALKED OF CREATING A UNITED STATES OF SIBERIA LINKED ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN WITH THE U.S.A. COLLINS PLANTED THE SEED. HE URGED THE RUSSIANS TO BUILD A RAILROAD ACROSS SIBERIA. HIS SUGGESTION, ADOPTED A HALF CENTURY LATER, WAS TO BECOME THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD STRETCHING 5500 MILES FROM THE URAL MOUNTAINS TO VLADIVOSTOK. IN 1891 THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE LINE BEGAN. AFTER A HUMAN SAGA THAT MUST HAVE RIVALLED THAT OF THE PYRAMIDS, UNINTERRUPTED RAILS LAY ACROSS THE BREADTH OF RUSSIA IN 1904. IN THE PROCESS THE RUSSIANS LEARNED TO WORK IN THE ARCTIC. THEY WERE FORCED TO BUILD FIRES TO WARM THE "ARCTIC STONE," THE NAME THEY GAVE TO PERMAFROST. IN THE WINTER THEY HAD TO CHOP OUT AND MELT VAST QUANTITIES OF ICE FOR THEMSELVES, THEIR HORSES, AND EVEN THEIR LOCOMOTIVE BOILERS. FOR IN SOME AREAS, ALL BUT THE LARGEST RIVERS WERE FROZEN TO THE BOTTOM. CRITICS IN ENGLAND AND AMERICA LAUGHED AT THE RAILROAD. THEY CALLED IT "RUSTY STREAKS OF IRON THROUGH THE VASTNESS OF NOTHING TO THE EXTREMITIES OF NOWHERE." BUT THE RUSSIANS SUCCEEDED. EVEN THEY, HOWEVER, DIDN'T REALIZE THEY WERE BUILDING A CAUSEWAY TO THE FUTURE. IN MANY WAYS, THE SAGA OF SIBERIA HAS JUST BEGUN. WHILE WE IN THIS COUNTRY ARE IN A PHILOSOPHICAL TURMOIL, OF WHETHER TO DEVELOP OUR RESOURCES, A NEW GENERATION OF SIBERIANS IS CARVING A CIVILIZATION OUT OF THEIR ARCTIC. JUN 5-89 MON 15:46 P.08 4/7 I PREDICT THAT SIBERIA WILL BECOME THE GREAT INCENTIVE NATION OF THE FUTURE. AT THIS VERY TIME, AS WE MEET HERE IN THIS ROOM, THE NEW BREED OF SIBERIAN IS BUILDING A 2000-MILE EXTENSION TO THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD. THEY CALL IT "THE PROJECT OF THE AGE." AND IT HAS CAPTURED THE IMAGINATION OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE ACROSS RUSSIA. THE NEW RAILROAD LOOPS UP TOWARDS SOUTHEAST SIBERIA THE SITE OF THE GREAT MINERAL AND OIL AND GAS DISCOVERIES OF THE FUTURE. FIFTY-SIX INCH GAS PIPELINES ARE UNDER CONSTRUCTION 4000 MILES OF THEM TO TAKE SIBERIAN GAS WEST TO EUROPE AND EAST TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. YES, SIBERIA IS CHARGED WITH EXCITEMENT AND DRIVE AND PROMISE. AND, UNLIKE THE SOCIALISM ENVISIONED BY MARX AND LENIN, THE YOUNG HAVE BEEN LURED TO SIBERIA BY FRINGE BENEFITS, LONGER HOLIDAYS, AND MORE PAY. CALL IT WHAT YOU LIKE THAT'S CAPITALISM. MY CONCERN IS THAT IN TWENTY YEARS WE WILL LOOK ACROSS THE BERING STRAIT FROM A NATION WHOSE GREATNESS HAS BEEN ECLIPSED AS SURELY AND COMPLETELY AS THE GREAT BRITAIN OF TODAY AND WE'LL SAY "THE SIBERIANS ARE SUCCEEDING WITH A SYSTEM WE ENVISIONED. WE JUST DIDN'T HAVE THE GUTS TO FOLLOW THROUGH." AND THEY HAVE ONLY BEGUN TO TOUCH THE VASTNESS OF THEIR LAND. AFTER ALL, THE SOVIET UNION HAS ELEVEN TIME ZONES. IT HAS FIVE OF THE WORLD'S THIRTEEN LONGEST RIVERS, ALL FLOWING NORTH INTO THE ARCTIC OCEAN. BUT IT'S NOT THEIR WEALTH OF SPACE OR RESOURCES THAT WILL MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. IF RUSSIA EVER BURIES US AS KHRUSCHEV SAID THEY WOULD IT WILL NOT BE BECAUSE OF IDEOLOGY OR MILITARY MIGHT IT WILL BE BECAUSE THEY OUTWORK US. YOU CAN CARVE THAT IN GRANITE. IT'S A FACT OF LIFE. 4/8 THE SOUR FACE IN MOSCOW DOESN'T BOTHER ME. JUST WAIT TILL THE HAPPY FACE OF SIBERIA OVERWHELMS IT. AND DON'T WRITE OFF THE SIBERIANS' SUCCESS BECAUSE YOU IMAGINE THEY DISREGARD ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS. TEN PERCENT OF THEIR CONSTRUCTION BUDGET IS ALLOCATED TO PROTECTING ENVIRONMENTAL VALUES. IN MANY WAYS, THESE REMOTE AREAS OF THE WORLD ARE THE BEST AREAS FOR RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT. IN CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, YOU HAVE TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THREE FACTORS MAN, MAN'S NEEDS, AND NATURE. IN THE ARCTIC, YOU BASICALLY ELIMINATE ONE OF THOSE THREE CONCERNS MAN- AS LIVING SPACE, THE ARCTIC WILL NEVER COMPETE WITH WARMER CLIMATES. NO ONE IS GOING TO PRUDHOE BAY, ON ALASKA'S NORTH SLOPE, AND BUY A RETIREMENT HOME. IT'S ONE OF THE MOST DESOLATE REGIONS ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH. IT IS NOT ONLY COLD AND SEES NO SUN FOR MANY WEEKS IN MID- WINTER IT IS A DESERT WITH ONLY THREE OR FOUR INCHES PER YEAR. IT IS NOT A WELCOME ENVIRONMENT FOR HUMANS. THEREFORE, IN THE ARCTIC WE CAN CONCENTRATE ON MAKING MAN'S NEEDS AND NATURE COMPATIBLE. I'M NOT SAYING IT'S EASY. I'M SAYING IT IS DO-ABLE AND THE CHALLENGE CAN HELP REJUVENATE OUR NATION. A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO I WAS SITTING IN THE OFFICE OF A GOVERNOR OF ONE OF OUR OIL-RICH STATES. HE SAID, "I KNOW AMERICA NEEDS THE OIL BUT OUR COASTLINE IS so DELICATE." JUN- 5-89 MON 15:47 P.10 4/9 I REPLIED, "YES, IT IS DELICATE, AND so ARE THE COAL-BEARING AREAS IN MONTANA AND so ARE THE OIL-SHALE REGIONS IN COLORADO ... AND THE VAST OIL DEPOSITS IN GEORGE'S BANKS OFF THE ATLANTIC COAST ... AND so IS THE NORTH SLORE OF ALASKA!!! YES, ALL THESE AREAS ARE DELICATE. BUT DOES THAT MEAN WE QUIT? DO WE THROW UP OUR HANDS AND GIVE UP? WHO SAYS WE CAN'T TAP THESE RESOURCES AND PROTECT THE ENVIRONMENT AS WE DO IT? THE ENGLISH AND THE NORWEGIANS HAVE SUCCEEDED IN THE EXTREMELY DIFFICULT CONDITIONS IN THE NORTH SEA. THE SIBERIANS ARE DOING IT AT THIS VERY MOMENT. AMERICA CAN DO IT IF WE AREN'T STOPPED BY THE FEARFUL AND THE PROPONENTS OF DOOM AND GLOOM. THE FRONTIERS ARE OUT THERE. WE MUST FIRST CONQUER THE FRONTIERS WITHIN OURSELVES. YOUR QUESTIONS PLEASE. 14 WYOMING The Fur Trade Territory 15 goods that he distributed generously along the way. Most of the tered Wyoming to trap and to explore. John Colter became the goods went for beaver skins. The servants, Souci and Morrison, first white American to reveal the wonders of Wyoming geogra- showed the Indians how to prepare the pelts. Larocque's phy, although there remains some doubt about where he went eagerness to promote the harvest of beaver led him to disregard and what he saw. Colter was with the Lewis and Clark expedi- the usual inhibitions about taking pelts in summer. At the end of tion as it returned in 1806 and encountered two trappers in his tour he reported that he had bought 122 beaver pelts "not in present-day North Dakota who persuaded Colter to go trapping consideration of what they were worth (because they are all with them. Since they could use Colter's knowledge of the summer skins) but in order to show to the savages the value that Montana country, the trappers offered to outfit him if he would I attach to the beaver skins and to the goods that we give enter a partnership with them. Lewis and Clark detached Colter them." With his superiors in mind he added that "at the same at the Mandan villages after exacting promises from all the other time I wished to be able to prove that there are beaver in this members of the expedition that they would not ask for the same region. privilege. Larocque learned that while beaver dams adorned the whole Presumably Colter and his partners trapped in the Crow length of the Powder River, it might take some time to convince country of northern Wyoming. They did not prosper; perhaps the Indians of the value of the beaver trade. He wrote in a clas- they quarreled. In the spring of 1807 Colter paddled a canoe sic understatement that some of the natives "seemed to desire down the Missouri all by himself until he met a fur trade party that I go away." The Indians hinted that the twenty-three pelts of forty-two men led by Manuel Lisa, prominent Spanish fur Larocque had taken up to that time were "a great many more trader out of Saint Louis, at the mouth of the Platte. For the sec- than we needed." The Indians, like whites who were to come ond time Colter postponed his return to Saint Louis. Lisa's party and endure fur trapping for only a short time, disliked trapping included three other veterans of Lewis and Clark's expedition- beaver for money. George Drouillard, John Potts, and Peter Wiser-who probably The Larocque Journal includes other information that prob- had a hand in arranging for Colter's employment by Lisa. ably interested his employers: the fact that the Snake Indians The Lisa party arrived in October at the confluence of the Big placed great value on blue beads, that the Powder River was Horn and Yellowstone rivers, where some of the men built a always muddy and "scarcely drinkable," that August nights trading post and others trapped, and where John Colter received could get very cold along the Powder, and that many buffalo, a special assignment to search for Crow Indians in northwestern deer, antelope, and bear lived in the area, although the land be- Wyoming and invite them to the new trading post. Presumably tween the Powder and the Little Missouri was remarkably dry he found one village and learned there about others. He carried and had "scarcely any vegetation." a thirty-pound pack loaded with items with which he could win Larocque did in fact go away and stay away, though not for good will and hire guide service. When Lisa gave Colter this as- the Indians' reasons. When he said farewell to his hosts on Sep- signment he unwittingly marked him for future fame, for in con- tember 14, he asked them to "kill beaver and bear during the ducting the search he discovered what came to be called Col- whole winter" because he would return the following autumn ter's Hell, Jackson Hole and Yellowstone Park. with all the trade goods they desired. However, the North West The official Journals of Lewis and Clark, published in 1814, Company decided to concentrate on expanding in Canada for included a map of their route with a dotted line added to show the time being, and Larocque never came back to Wyoming. where Colter went. On this map the topography around Colter's But absence of the French Canadians was more than compen- route is peculiar in several respects, which should not be sur- sated for by the succeeding rash of white Americans who en- prising, considering that Colter made a 500-mile hike in the Wyomings fort tourist 16 WYOMING The Fur Trade Territory 17 dead of winter, kept no notes, had never done any mapping, For some years few people believed the Colter stories about conveyed his information to William Clark from memory three the wonders of northwestern Wyoming. Then the Blackfeet In- years later, and died before he had a chance to check the map. dians and a German-born, New York-based fur trader unwit- However, the map bears too much resemblance to modern maps tingly combined forces to send many more whites through of the area to be dismissed as imaginary. Particularly significant Wyoming in one year than had been there in all previous years. is the presence of two large lakes corresponding to Jackson John Jacob Astor, head of the American Fur Company and its and Yellowstone lakes and a large river flowing north out of one, subsidiary, the Pacific Fur Company, sent Wilson Price Hunt as the Yellowstone River does. overland in 1811 to take charge of a trading post which a sea- The thermal activity observed by Colter, to which the name borne party was building at Astoria, Oregon, at the mouth of the "Colter's Hell" was later applied, was on the Shoshone River Columbia. Hunt's expedition, known as the Overland Astorians, just west of present Cody, Wyoming. Little thermal activity was the first expedition to cross the continent after Lewis and occurs there now, but there is evidence to indicate that there Clark. Astor's original plan called for Hunt to follow the route could have been a good deal of it in Colter's time. Colter might of Lewis and Clark, but fear of the Blackfeet in Montana caused have seen hot springs and geysers at West Thumb but he missed him to leave the Missouri River at the Arikara villages at the by at least twenty miles the major geyser basins of what became present line of the South Dakota-North Dakota border and head Yellowstone Park. toward the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. Three Lisa vet- The National Park Service Museum at Moose in Jackson Hole erans-John Hoback, Jacob Reznor, and Edward Robinson— exhibits a rhyolite lava stone, thirteen inches long, on which is who had recently come in across northern Wyoming and had carved "John Colter" and "1808." An Idaho farmer plowed up joined Hunt's party, recommended the change of plan. Perhaps Wyoning this stone in 1931 just west of Jackson Hole. There is no way to John Colter, who had talked to Hunt in Missouri, also suggested establish the authenticity of the stone. that the Blackfeet should be avoided. anyon Almost as well known as his discovery of the Yellowstone After trading their boats for horses at the Arikara villages, the Park area is Colter's footrace later in 1808 northwest of Yellow- Astorians began their overland journey in July 1811. Many of stone Park. Captured by Blackfeet Indians, Colter was given an them had to walk because most of the horses were loaded with opportunity to run for his life. Stripped naked and hotly pur- packs of merchandise for the trading post at Astoria. As it ex- sued, he ran six miles to a stream where he concealed himself in tended along the Grand River in northern South Dakota, the cara- driftwood until nightfall when very quietly he stole away. Seven van included sixty-two men, one woman, and two children. days later he arrived at Lisa's fort with sore feet and a sun- The party must have crawled slowly from day to day as it burned back. wended up the rivers and across the grassy plains, a landscape After other narrow escapes Colter returned to Missouri in stirred by occasional dust devils in the summertime and broken 1810, got married, and settled down on a farm. Probably the up only occasionally by landmarks like Devils Tower, the rocky mountains would have lured him back sooner or later, had he volcanic core that can be seen for twenty miles across the not died of yellow jaundice in 1813. In 1976 the splendid Colter plains. Making and breaking camp with such a multitude must Bay tourist facilities on Jackson Lake made an impressive me- have been an enormous undertaking, but not entirely unpleasant morial for this heroic discoverer of the area. His fame all over in the early stages when the party was well-stocked with sup- the country has made many people think of remote, sparsely plies. Then there would have been rich moments around the settled Wyoming, something that practically no one was doing campfire, since two-thirds of the men were French Canadians, in Colter's own time. who, Washington Irving said, were "ever ready to come to a today, Wyoning Weed residents take a different toward visitors. EXECUTIVE OFFICE OF THE PRESIDENT OFFICE OF MANAGEMENT AND BUDGET ROUTE SLIP Take necessary action TO Approval or signature Dave Gibbons Comment Bob Grady Prepare reply Discuss with me For your information See remarks below FROM Mark Taylor DATE 6/1/89 REMARKS Attached is an Interior press release, dated today, that describes the new Interior and Agriculture fire suppression policy. The new policy strengthens but does not radically change prior practice, under which all fires on public lands were suppressed except those that met certain criteria ("prescriptions") set by area-specific fire management plans. The new policy requires that all fires, including prescribed fires, be suppressed until fire management plans are strengthened to meet various broad requirements recommended by the Departments joint fire policy review team. As plans are, in effect, recertified, prescribed burns will resume. The target date for completing the review and revision of all fire management plans is May 1, 1990. Most will be recertified much sooner -- probably this summer. However, plans as complex as Yellowstone's will probably require the entire period to update. There will be no prescribed burns at Yellowstone this year. OMB FORM 4 Interior has briefed congressional staff and Rev Aug 70 interest groups on the new policy and the initial reaction seems positive. OF THE INTERIOR DEPARTMENT of the INTERIOR March 3, 1849 news release OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY For Release June 1, 1989 Steve Goldstein, USDI (0) 202-343-6416 (H) 202-887-5248 Kelly Shipp, USDA (0) 202-447-4623 NEW U.S. FIRE MANAGEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS APPROVED BY SECRETARIES OF INTERIOR AND AGRICULTURE Secretary of the Interior Manuel Lujan and Secretary of Agriculture Clayton Yeutter today directed federal officials to suppress all natural fires in national parks and wilderness areas until individual fire management plans for the areas are determined to be in compliance with new federal recommendations. The directive was one of fifteen the two cabinet members adopted from the recommendations of the federal interagency Fire Management Policy Review Team. The team was established last year to analyze U.S. Department of the Interior and U.S. Department of Agriculture fire management policies in national parks and wilderness areas. The recommendations affect fire management policies of USDI's National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, Fish and Wildlife Service and Bureau of Indian Affairs, and USDA's Forest Service. Lujan and Yeutter said many of the fifteen recommendations will require long-range planning and coordination for implementation, but that others will become effective immediately. In addition to the recommendation to suppress for the interim all natural fires in national parks and wilderness areas, other directives to be adopted immediately include the following: (more) All wildland fires will be declared either prescribed fires or wildfires. All wildfires will be fought with appropriate suppression action. (A prescription as it applies to a prescribed fire is a written statement of the limits under which a fire may burn in a specific geographic area. The limits include such criteria as weather conditions and fuel moisture. A prescribed fire is managed by qualified personnel in order to achieve specific resource management objectives. Prescribed fires may be started by management ignition or by natural ignition such as lightning. A wildfire is declared when a fire occurs in an area for which there is no prescription, or when a prescribed fire exceeds the prescribed conditions or geographic limits of the prescribed area.) The responsible line officer will certify in writing daily that prescribed natural fires are within prescriptions, and that adequate resources are available to ensure that each prescribed fire will remain within prescribed boundaries and conditions throughout the next 24 hours, given reasonably foreseeable weather conditions and fire behavior. If these conditions cannot be met, the fire shall be declared a wildfire and suppressed. Other review team recommendations include measures for improving interagency coordination, providing adequate staffing, training, research, equipment and funding, strengthening fire management plans, bringing those plans into compliance with the National Environmental Policy Act, and measures for increasing public involvement in policy decisions. In reviewing federal firefighting policies, the team gathered input from state and local officials, private citizens, academic experts, concessionaires and outfitters, environmental groups and business interests. Eleven public meetings were held across the country to solicit comments on the report. The public comments and the resulting findings were incorporated and submitted in a final report to the secretaries of the Interior and Agriculture. Recommendations from the final report are attached. -DOI- Fire Management Policy Review Team May 5, 1989 Department of Agriculture Department of the Interior FINAL REPORT OF THE FIRE MANAGEMENT POLICY REVIEW TEAM May 5, 1989 RECOMMENDATIONS The Team recommends that the Secretaries of Agriculture and the Interior implement the following policy and direction: 1. Existing USDI and USDA fire management policies governing wilderness and parks must be strengthened and reaffirmed to limit their application to legitimate prescribed fire programs. Clarification is needed to prevent inappropriate use of fundamentally sound policies. 2. The agencies reaffirm their policies that fires are either prescribed fires or wildfires. The agencies reject as impractical and unprofessional the practice that fires can be allowed to burn free of prescriptions or appropriate suppression action. 3. USDA and USDI agencies will periodically review fire management plans for parks and wilderness for compliance with current policy, direction, and the additional requirements recommended by this report. No prescribed natural fires are to be allowed until fire management plans meet these standards. 4. Current fire management plans must be strengthened by: a. Developing joint agency fire management plans, agreements, or addendums to existing plans for those areas where fires could cross administrative boundaries. Periodic joint review of these plans should occur. These will include agreement on processes and criteria to be used to make decisions on prescribed vs. wildfire and suppression strategies and tactics. b. Including a comprehensive set of criteria which will be used in deciding whether or not to allow natural ignitions to burn as prescribed fires. In addition to those criteria currently required and commonly used, the following factors will be considered: (1) Energy release component. (2) 1000-hour fuel or duff moisture content. (3) Appropriate consideration of the national and regional fire situation, including the numbers of fires and amount of available resources to suppress them. (4) Limits on numbers of fires burning in the planning unit at one time. (5) Limits on projected length of active perimeter and acreage burned. (6) Indicators of cumulative drought effects on fire behavior. (7) Potential impacts upon visitors, users, and local communities, both on and off site. Recommendations - Page 2 C. Clearly describing the decision process and factors to be addressed before a fire is declared a prescribed natural fire. d. Including criteria to be used in declaring a prescribed fire a wildfire. There must be interagency agreement on these factors in areas where fire may move across administrative boundaries and shared suppression resources may be required. e. Clearly identifying areas that need protection from fire, such as developments within or adjacent to wilderness and park boundaries. Fire management plans should also include actions that are to be taken, such as hazard fuel reduction or installing fuel breaks, to protect such develop- ments or areas. f. Clearly stating the management objectives being addressed by the prescribed natural fire program, including identification of specific values gained as a result of allowing natural fires to burn unsuppressed within prescribed conditions and areas. g. Clearly describing the process to be used to ensure adequate public involvement and coordina- tion with local governments in both plan development and implementation. 5. Agencies will cooperatively develop regional and national contingency plans and procedures and provide the appropriate program monitoring and direction, including curtailment of prescribed fire activities when necessary because of competition for national and regional fire suppression resources. 6. The responsible line officer or designee shall certify in writing daily that a fire is within prescription and adequate resources are available to ensure that each prescribed natural fire will remain within prescription through the ensuing 24-hour period, given reasonably foreseeable weather conditions and fire behavior. If the fire cannot be kept within prescription with available forces and funds, it shall be declared a wildfire and appropriate suppression action initiated. 7. Agencies must re-evaluate the opportunities to use management ignited prescribed fire to achieve management objectives and to complement prescribed natural fire programs. Additionally, hazard fuels must be reduced to protect selected areas, particularly developments within and adjacent to boundaries. from prescribed natural fire and high wildfire risk. Fuels will be treated along park and wilderness boundaries or internally where there are high values at risk. 8. Fire program management will be improved by establishing properly staffed regional and unit level organizations. a. Agencies will ensure the availability of qualified staff and knowledgeable line officers for develop- ing, implementing, and managing prescribed fire programs. b. National Park Service regional offices will establish a full-time regional fire coordinator to develop and oversee park programs in accordance with FIREPRO III, where appropriate. C. Agencies will implement the concept of highly trained, well-equipped and mobile tactical teams to provide on-the- ground monitoring and management of prescribed natural fires in national parks and wilderness. d. Agencies will ensure the strengthened policy is understood and implemented by all appropriate personnel. e. Agency managers will assure that personnel develop a thorough understanding of the manage- ment objectives for the lands they are managing. f. The National Park Service is to complete an analysis of normal fire year operations. FIREPRO III, in order to define essential minimum wildland fire program needs and to take action to meet those needs. Recommendations - Page 3 9. Additional interagency emphasis will be given to addressing opportunities for improving fire management programs. a. The National Wildfire Coordinating Group (NWCG) charter should be expanded specifically to include prescribed fire program coordination. b. The NWCG should take the lead in developing common terminology for prescribed burning programs and describing wildfire suppression alternatives. C. Agencies will develop joint criteria for selecting appropriate suppression tactics in wilderness and parks. d. Agencies will improve public and agency understanding and acceptance of using appropriate suppression tactics that meet fire management objectives and minimize the adverse impact on wilderness values and park resources. 10. Agencies will ensure NEPA compliance for fire management plans. Agencies will increase opportunities for public involvement and coordination with state and local government when revising or developing fire management plans. 11. Interpretation and public information before and during fires will be improved. a. Agencies will ensure that timely, accurate, and consistent information is provided for the public on the purpose, presence, and status of prescribed natural fires, as well as impacts on the community due to closed roads, trails, smoke, back country restrictions, and other effects. b. Interpretive and fire status messages are for different purposes, and agencies should strive to keep them separate and distinct. There should also be a distinction between the information needs for prescribed fires and wildfires. C. Agencies should ensure that the public is informed of the risks involved in fire management programs. d. Agencies will use common terminology for prescribed natural fire programs. 12. USDI and USDA will review the methods of funding prescribed fire and fire protection programs with the objective of improving interagency program effectiveness. Planning and presuppression activi- ties should be financed by program funds rather than through emergency fund transfers and supplementals. 13. There is a need for additional research related to fire management programs. a. USDI and USDA will develop coordinated research programs utilizing the unique capabilities of both organizations. b. The feasibility of prescribed burning forests using stand replacement fire will be investigated and tested by implementing an appropriate interagency field research program. C. Research will be increased to improve the ability to predict severe fire behavior, conduct long-term weather forecasting, and identify past abnormal events. d. Efforts will be undertaken to develop and implement an expert system that integrates a wide array of fuel, topographic, weather, climatological, fire behavior, post-fire effects. and other information and readily displays such information in an interactive mode for the user at a computer terminal. This expert system would help to assure that important variables are not overlooked as decisions are made regarding long duration fires. Recommendations - Page 4" e. Efforts will also be undertaken to develop comprehensive data bases for park and wilderness resources and provide for state of the art analyses and display as well as an efficient, continuous monitoring system to insure timely update of information. f. Development of additional emission factors for wildland fuels and better methods for projecting air quality impacts of prescribed and wildfires are needed, since smoke and air pollution are major considerations in deciding when to terminate prescribed natural fires and in scheduling management ignited prescribed fires. 14. If any Federal bureau engages in prescribed natural fire programs in Alaska, that bureau is responsible for adherence to the standards established as a result of these recommendations. The well-established terminology describing levels of wildfire suppression in Alaska should not be changed for the sake of conformity with the broader categories used elsewhere. 15. The agencies will cooperate fully in determining whether allegations of misuse of policy are true and take measures to ensure that any such practices not occur in the future. June 6, 1989 MEMORANDUM FOR ED MCNALLY FROM: BOB SIMON SUBJECT: HISTORY OF THE JACKSON AREA John D. Rockefeller visit Jackson Lake for the first time in 1924. He was disturbed by the growing tacky commercialism of the area. In 1927, Horace Albright, the Yellowstone superintendent, convinced Rockefeller to buy up land in the Jackson hole area to preserve it as parkland. Rockefeller formed the Snake River Land Co. and secretly bought over 30,000 acres for more than $1.4 million. This land, and other land, was eventually turned into the present Grand Tetons National Park. pap. President Chester Arthur was the first President to travel through the Tetons and Yellowstone, in 1883. By this time, word had travelled East about the beauty of the area, so Arthur took a vacation out there to see the sights and meet some Indians. After debarking the train, the Presidential party, including half the cabinet, traveled by pack train, and slept in tents, along the Snake River, through Jackson Hole and up to Yellowstone. They were accompanied by two troops of cavalry. Newspaper reporters were banned from the trip. Gen. Sheridan told two reporters from Chicago that if they followed, they would be arrested and jailed. President Arthur occasionally issued press releases on their activities on the trip. The path Arthur followed was known as the "Bottle trail" named for the empty bottles of booze that trailed the Presidential party. nothor become port 1872 Yellowstone Today A National Park Service Publication For Yellowstone Visitors Summer 1989 * Information * Regulations & Safety * Activities USE A Message From Superintendent Bob Barbee For International Visitors I welcome you to a special time of 1988; these are described in the Old Faithful and West Thumb. year in Yellowstone National Park. enclosed fire supplement. As the first Thank you for your patience. Yellowstone National Park has post-fire summer visitors, you have a unique dangers; see page 5. Summer is an exciting season in unique opportunity to view a changed We benefit today from the care past Yellowstone; many visitors enjoy the and evolving Yellowstone. Please feel generations have given Yellowstone. Le Parc national de Yellowstone park's thermal features, world-renowned free to share your impressions with us. This is fitting, since it is for both pres- présente des risques particuliers. wildlife and other scenic wonders. But ervation and use that national parks Regardez la page 5. Des renseigne- it is also a time for careful planning. Over the last several years the National have been set aside. Our care now ments en francais sont disponibles Information to help you stay safe and Park Service has made a major effort to will help keep the park a priceless, aux centres des visiteurs dans le to protect the park can be found else- repair and rehabilitate many of Yellow- wild gift for future generations. where in this newspaper. stone's historic facilities. We are now parc. in the process of repairing or replacing My staff and hope your adventure Much of the park was affected by several of the park's roads, and you may Der Yellowstone National Park hat in Yellowstone is safe, fulfilling and wildland fires during the summer of experience delays, especially between unforgettable. gewisse Gefahren. Sehen Sie Seite 5. Sie können Information Craig Pass Construction auf Deutsch in den Besucherzentren bekommen. North Entrance Craig Pass, the 17 mile road linking Old Existen peligros únicos en el Parque Faithful and West Thumb, is undergoing Northeast Nacional Yellowstone. Vea página 5. Entrance construction to rebuild and Improve the Mammoth Se puede conseguir Información en Hot Springs Tower/ roadbed, so travel will be restricted español en los Centros de Visitantes. Roosevelt at certain times, as indicated in the following table. Hikers: This will affect access to trailheads located on that N stretch of road (see page 6). Bicyclists: Bicycles are not permitted on the Craig it 7 Norris Pass Road. Craig Pass closes for the Canyon season on September 11, 1989. Madison Day Night West 9am-9om 90m-9am Emergency Dial 911 Entrance Monday Open- 15 min. delay Closed Flehing Contact A Ranger 344-7381 Bridge Tuesday Open- min. delay Closed Lake Wednesday Open-15 min. delay Closed Bridge Bay Thursday Open-15 min. delay Closed East Friday Open Open Index Old Falthful "Craig Pass Entrance Saturday Open Open Sunday Open Closed Park Map Page 12 West Thumb Safety 5 Grent Regulations. 6 Village Hiking 7 Visitor Centers 3 Campgrounds. 6 Facilities 11 Fire Information. Page 2, Section B South Entrance Photo Copy Preservation 2 YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 $5.00 Telling the Fire Story in Two Parks Interested in the wildfires of 1988? Turn to the separate fire supplement enclosed in this newspaper for some background reading. Then, use this map and descriptions to view several fire sites - from burns which occurred in 1988 and earlier in both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Look for other fire sites along the roads. After June 17, stop to see the special fire exhibit at the Grant Village Visitor Center (see page 3). Finally, ask a park ranger your fire-related questions. SELECTED FIRE SITES IN SELECTED FIRE SITES IN GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 1. Beaver Creek Fire 4. Lewis River Canyon In August, 1985, a lightning-caused fire burned over Shooting firebrands far in advance of the flame wall, a 1,000 acres on the west side of the Teton Park Road wind-whipped blaze leapt the 500 yard wide Lewis River between Moose and South Jenny Lake Junction. A YELLOWSTONE Canyon in summer 1988. The scene puts human-made summer walk to Taggart Lake reveals wildflowers, barriers in perspective; even the most resourceful fire- grasses and flowering shrubs; many lodgepole pines fighting crews cannot control fires of this magnitude. have germinated and aspens have suckered in the NATIONAL PARK growing seasons following the fire. 5. Blow Down/Fire Site In 1984, a violent storm - windshear or tornado - 2. Mystic Iste Fire snapped and scattered these pine trees. Though Along the east shore of Leigh Lake, you can witness seedlings sprouted the next spring and the forest had what has occurred since lightning struck Mystic Isle in begun to recover, the fallen trunks were ready fuel August 1981. Notice the abundant young lodgepole when flames reached the site in 1988. After two pines which have germinated in fire-created openings. successive deforestations, it may remain a meadow for decades but fire-adapted lodgepole 3. Signal Mountain cones will eventually reseed a new forest. Drive the Signal Mountain Summit Road (no trailers or large motorhomes, please) to view a forest that burned 6. Burn Mosalc on Bunsen Peak in 1879, when massive fires swept through the Jackson Wildfires do not burn evenly, but rather leave a Hole valley. In the past 110 years, lodgepole pines mosaic pattern of completely charred, slightly singed, have matured. Sub-alpine fir and Engleman spruce and untouched vegetation. Such uneven burns are a will continue to replace the lodgepole boon to wildlife, with varied pine until fire once again returns the habitat attracting diverse forest to a younger stage. birds and mammals. SERVICE Exploring Yellowstone: Getting Started "Now that I'm here, where do go?" It's frost heaves, and traffic may be heavy northern-most extent of the canyon particular time. Early morning and not an unusual question, especially for and slow moving. Note: If you plan to is visible from Tower Fall and Calcite evening hours are when animals tend to first time visitors. Consider the facts: drive Craig Pass, linking Old Faithful Springs overlooks 19 miles north of feed and thus are more easily seen. But Yellowstone is the largest national park and West Thumb, delays and closures Canyon Village. The drive between remember that the numbers and variety in the lower 48 states, encompassing 2.2 are in affect due to road construction; Tower Junction and Canyon Village of animals you see are largely a matter million acres or 3,472 square miles. It is see maps on the front and back pages over Dunraven Pass, the highest road in of luck and coincidence. Check at visitor larger than the states of Delaware and of this newspaper. While it is possible the park at 8,859 feet. Along the way centers for detailed information. Please Rhode Island combined and spreads to drive the Grand Loop in a day, major you will find spectacular views of the use pullouts when viewing wildlife, and across the borders of three states attractions like Old Faithful Geyser and Absaroka Mountains, the Yellowstone remember that Yellowstone's animals are Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Three the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone caldera and, on a clear day, the Teton wild; use binoculars or telephoto lenses hundred fifty miles of paved road wind can only be seen by driving to a parking Mountains to the south. During June and for safe viewing and to avoid disturbing through the park, crossing the Continen- area and walking to the feature. If you July, wildflowers carpet the slopes of Mt. them. tal Divide three times. Elevations range have limited time, consider spending it at Washburn. A visitor center is located from approximately 5,300 feet at the just one area instead of trying to "see the at Canyon Village. North Entrance to almost 12,000 feet at park" from the road. Many people Eagle Peak on the park's east boundary, believe that to fully appreciate just the History although most roads lie at 7,500 to 8,000 major attractions in Yellowstone requires feet. Mammoth Hot Springs is park headquar- a minimum of three days. Lake Area ters. It is also the site of Fort Yellow- Yellowstone Lake, with 110 miles of stone, built during the Army era (1886 to Historically, visitors often referred to shoreline and a 136 square mile surface Yellowstone as "Wonderland," and that 1918) of park administration. The former area, is North America's largest mountain Bachelor Officers' Quarters is now the may be even more appropriate today. An Geysers and Hot Springs lake. Its relatively high elevation (7,733 unparalled array of geothermal phenom- Albright Visitor Center where the story of Yellowstone's volcanic past is embodied feet) is one reason why the lake is ice- ena geysers, hot springs, steam vents Yellowstone's colorful history is told. in its geysers and hot springs. The locked at least half of the year. The area and mud pots are preserved here, world's greatest concentration of thermal evidence of a volcanic past (and future?). is prime habitat for a variety of birds and features is located in Yellowstone: about The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone mammals, and spectacular scenery plus 10,000 thermal features are known, of is famous for its colors, shapes, and fishing and boating have long made the which 200 to 250 are geysers. Many of SERVICES AND FACILITIES waterfalls (the Lower Falls, at 308 feet, area popular with visitors. Nearby, Mud the most famous features can be found is the highest In the park). The park Volcano and West Thumb Geyser Basin See page 11 for a directory of visitor along the fifty mile road between Mam- shelters a variety and abundance of hint at a complex geologic history; services. All facilities, accommodations wildlife found in few other places. moth Hot Springs and Old Faithful. present activity is unique and ever- and services are available from approxi- Areas of thermal activity include the changing. Permits, required for fishing mately mid-June to late August. How- Yellowstone Lake and numerous rivers, Mammoth Hot Spring Terraces, Norris and boating, are available at Lake ever, facilities and services are limited streams, and waterfalls constitute a major Western water resource. With so much Geyser Basin, Fountain Paint Pots, Ranger Station and Grant Village Visitor before and after that period. Please note Firehole Lake Drive, Midway Geyser Center (note that the general fishing opening and closing dates. General park to see and do, it's easy to be over- Basin, Biscuit Basin, Black Sand Basin, season begins May 27; June 15 on information is available by calling whelmed. The following tips and infor- and the Old Faithful area. Visitor Centers mation will help you plan your time Yellowstone Lake; July 15 on the lake's National Park Service headquarters at along this road are located at Mammoth to suit your interests and energy level. tributary streams). A museum is located (307) 344-7381. Reservations for Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, and at Fishing Bridge. lodging and activities such as bus tours, Rangers at visitor centers can fill in the details and help you make the most of Old Faithful. A self-guiding museum is horse rides, boat rental, etc. may be located near Madison Junction. made through TW Recreational Services, your visit to Yellowstone, Inc.; call (307) 344-7311. The park's major scenic attractions are Wildlife Viewing These highlights will help you plan your located along the Grand Loop Road, the Grand Canyon Yellowstone is home to a variety and visit to Yellowstone, but much is left for roughly figure-eight shaped road in the abundance of wildlife unparalleled in the The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone you to discover. If you supply the time center of the park. The total mileage lower 48 states. Nearly all wildlife species and curiosity, Yellowstone's wonders will around the Loop is 142 miles. The extends from Canyon Village north to inhabiting the park when it was first be revealed to you. May your visit be distance around the Upper Loop is 70 Tower Junction. However, the most officially explored 117 years ago survive safe, rewarding and memorable. miles; the Lower Loop, 96 miles. Actual famous and spectacular section, Includ- today. It is difficult to describe exactly driving time is difficult to estimate ing the Upper and Lower Falls of the where wildlife may be seen; habitat pref- because the maximum speed limit is 45 Yellowstone River, is seen from over- erences and seasonal cycles of move- Yellowstone Today is published four times mph or lower where posted, roads are looks along the North and South Rim ment determine, in a general sense, annually by the Division of Interpretation, narrow, winding, and full of pot holes and Roads in the Canyon Village area. The Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190, where a particular animal may be at a (307)344-7381, ext. 2204, in cooperation with the Yellowstone Association. Photo Copy Preservation YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Visitor Centers and Museums ALBRIGHT VISITOR CENTER, CANYON VISITOR CENTER FISHING BRIDGE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS Hours 9:00am-5:00pm through June 10; VISITOR CENTER Open year round. Hours 8:30am 8:00am-6:00pm June 11-August 26; after Hours 9:00am-5:00pm through June 10; GRANT VILLAGE 5:00pm through June 10; 8:00am- August 27 hours will be reduced and 8:00am-6:00pm June 11-August 26; after VISITOR CENTER 7:00pm June 11-August 26; 8:00am- posted. Information, publications, August 27 hours will be reduced and Open June 17. Hours 8:00am- 6:00pm August 27-Sept. 4. Information, exhibits of Canyon geology and natural posted. Information, publications, and 6:00pm June 17-August 26; after exhibits of the park's natural and human history. A movie, "The Faces of Yellow- exhibits of Yellowstone's birds, wildlife August 27 hours will be reduced history, publications. A movie, "The stone" and a slide program are shown and lake geology. Call (307)344-7381, and posted. A special exhibit Challenge of Yellowstone," is shown throughout the day. Call (307) 344-7381, ext. 6150 for more Information. "Yellowstone and Fire," depicting throughout the day. Call (307)344-7381, ext. 6205, for information. the causes, events, response of ext. 2357 for more information. MADISON EXPLORERS MUSEUM people and renewal processes NORRIS MUSEUM associated with fire, will be on OLD FAITHFUL VISITOR CENTER Open May 28. Located 1/4 mile south Hours 9:00am-4:30pm through June 10; 8:00am-6:00pm June 11-August 26; after of Madison Junction; open morning to display. A video with footage of Hours 8:30am-4:30 pm through June 10; August 27 hours will be reduced and evening. Exhibits describe the explora- the fires will also be shown every 8:00am-6:00pm June 11-Sept. 4; after tion and establishment of Yellowstone half hour. Come explore a fascin- Labor Day hours will be posted. Infor- posted. Information, publications, mation, publications, geyser eruption exhibits on geothermal features and on as the world's first national park. Facility ating natural process that has been is unstaffed. occurring in Yellowstone every 250- predictions. A nine minute movie, the extraordinary life forms that live in 400 years. For more information, "Yellowstone: A Living Sculpture" is the geyser basin, Call (307)344-7733 call (307)344-7381, ext. 6602. shown throughout the day. Call (307) for more information. 344-7381, ext. 6001 for more information. Self-guiding Trails Many of Yellowstone's famous scenic splendors can be seen from these trails. Slow down, stretch your legs, and discover the sights, smells and sounds of wilderness. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS ever-changing mud pots make this area Fountain. Avoid damaging thermal GRAND CANYON OF TERRACES unique, as does the variety of thermal features or yourself by staying on THE YELLOWSTONE Unique among Yellowstone's thermal activity and color. To protect fragile designated boardwalks and trails. The Canyon and the Upper and Lower features, almost two tons of new rock formations and delicate thermal colors, Falls can be seen from overlooks along are added to the terraces each day by and for your safety, please stay on WEST THUMB GEYSER BASIN the rim drives. The North Rim Drive hot spring waters. Paths wind through boardwalks. Situated on the shore of Yellowstone takes you to Inspiration, Grandview, a hillside of active and inactive terraces. Lake, boiling springs meet icy lake and Lookout Points. A spur road leads For your safety and the protection of THREE SENSES NATURE TRAIL water. Stay on boardwalks and paths to an overlook at the brink of the Upper fragile formations, please stay on board- Located on Firehole Lake Drive. One- to preserve delicate features and avoid Falls. The South Rim Drive leads to walks and trails, way road begins about one mile south injury. Uncle Tom's Trail and Artist Point. of the Fountain Paint Pots parking area. Trails also wind along both rims. NORRIS GEYSER BASIN Braille and visual texts help you "tune MUD VOLCANO TRAIL Explore the hottest, most active thermal into" the sounds, smells and textures Located approximately. 6 miles north of CALCITE SPRINGS OVERLOOK basin in the park. Trails start at the of Yellowstone. Fishing Bridge Junction (approximately AND TOWER FALL museum and lead to colorful hot springs 10 miles south of Canyon Junction). and a number of active geysers. In this UPPER GEYSER BASIN Calcite Springs overlook is located Thermal features of unusual color and approximately 1-1/2 miles south of area of thin crust, unstable ground and The world's greatest collection of geysers activity are found here Mud Volcano Tower Junction. From the trail you can boiling water, please stay on designated is located here, including Old Faithful and Dragon's Mouth to name see Calcite paths and boardwalks. Geyser. Several miles of trail begin at Thin crust and unstable ground overlie geological formations. Two miles south the Old Faithful Visitor Center; stop in for boiling water. Protect yourself and help of Tower Junction is the Tower Fall area. FOUNTAIN PAINT POT TRAIL orientation information, and for eruption preserve fragile formations by staying A short trail leads from the General Store Located 8 miles north of Old Faithful on times of predictable geysers: Castle, on designated tralls and boardwalks. to an overlook of the 132 foot waterfall. the road to Madison Junction. Active, Grand, Riverside, Daisy and Great Entrance Fees The Yellowstone Association Legislation passed by Congress last a calendar year, allows the permit holder The Yellowstone Association was You are invited to become a member. year raised the ceiling on entrance fees and accompanying passengers to enter founded in 1933 to assist with educa- of the Yellowstone Association. Benefits charged at Yellowstone and Grand Teton all parks which charge entrance fees. tional, historical and scientific programs to Yellowstone Associates, aside from National Parks. Entrance fees are now for the benefit of Yellowstone National demonstrating interest and support in $10 for a private, noncommercial The Golden Age Passport (for those Park and its visitors. One of the Assoc- the organization's philosophy and automobile, and $4 for each visitor over 62) and Golden Access Passport lation's major activities is the operation projects, include: entering by snowmobile, motorcycle, bus, (for the handicapped) are still offered of book sales outlets in park visitor **Discounts on class fees bicycle or on foot. These fees are good free of charge to qualifying individuals. centers. Proceeds from these sales and "A 15% discount on books sold by for a seven day pass to both parks. They entitle the holder and accompany- from membership revenues are used to: The Yellowstone Association in visitor ing passengers in a private, noncommer- "Support expanded naturalist training centers or by mail Also available for $15 is an annual cial vehicle free admission to parks plus and programs **An informative newsletter calendar year pass to Yellowstone and a 50 per cent reduction in user fees for **Publish trail guides, books and pam- **Discounts on Institute products Grand Teton National Parks. The $25 camping, boat launching, etc. phiets about Yellowstone **Invitations to special events Golden Eagle Passport, also effective for **Sponsor the Yellowstone Institute (see **A family membership covering donor, page 10) spouse, and children through age 20 "Purchase books for the park research **A tax deduction library and employ part-time librarians **Discounts at many association book- **Contribute to funding of museum stores in other national parks exhibits and research equipment. Associate $ 25 Contributing 50 Sustaining 100 Patron. 250 Sponsor. 500 Bonefactor 1000 NAME ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP Make checks payable to "The Yellowstone Association" or charge to ( )Visa ( ) MasterCard Number Expiration Date DISCOVER YELLOWSTONE. WITH A RANGER Ranger-led activities, offered from mid-June through Labor Day, are featured Signature in Discover Yellowstone. Look for this publication at visitor centers, stores Mail to: The Yellowstone Association, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, and gift shops starting June10. WY, 82190 or leave at the sales desk at any Visitor Center. Photo Copy Preservation YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 The Wondrous Ways of Heat and Water Perhaps no single natural feature in any national park "paint pots." Mudpots are found on the Fountain Paint enjoys the fame and notoriety of Old Faithful Geyser. Pots Trail, at Mud Volcano, Artist's Paint Pots, and Millions of visitors have journeyed from all around the in numerous backcountry locations in the park. world to view this spectacular geo-logic wonder. For many, it comes as a surprise to discover that Old Faith- Fumaroles are basically steam vents. The steam is ful is just one of some 10,000 thermal features sprinkled often expelled with tremendous force causing the liberally across the sprawling Yellowstone landscape. ground to tremble and producing a strong roaring Indeed, the number and variety of Yellowstone's thermal sound. Fumaroles are commonly found in many of splendors is unmatched anywhere in the world. the major geyser basins in Yellowstone. All thermal activity in nature is the result of volcanically Undoubtedly the most spectacular of the various kinds heated water that comes to the surface in a variety of of thermal features are the geysers. Geysers have a ways. In Yellowstone, the different thermal features complex plumbing system in which great quantities of are classed as hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles, and hot water are stored at depth under tremendous geysers. pressure. A narrow part of the conduit leading to the geyser's vent or pool is blocked by steam bubbles It is generally assumed by geologists that a slowly preventing the water from coming to the surface. cooling body of molten rock (magma) exists at relatively shallow depths beneath Yellowstone. As rain and snow Eventually the build-up of steam and super-heated fall on the park, some of it seeps down into the earth water is great enough so that a small decrease in and eventually comes in contact with the heat from this pressure within the system causes a chain reaction in magma. which much of the hot water flashes Instantly to steam. The steam then pushes the remaining water up and Under tremendous pressure, this water is able to be out of the tube in a violent eruption. heated to great temperatures without turning to steam temperatures much higher than the boiling point. The Geysers have been known to erupt to heights of 1,000 superheated water begins to rise and works it way back feet in the past. Currently, the world's largest geyser, to the surface emerging as one of Yellow stone's Steamboat (found at Norris Geyser Basin in Yellow- thermal wonders. stone, see photo), reaches heights of 400 feet during eruptions, the force of which is sometimes great enough A hot spring occurs anytime hot, rising thermal water to throw rocks into the air. Some geysers occasionally reaches the surface. In most cases, the water forms a blow out their own Internal plumbing, either altering or steamy, sometimes bubbling pool. A great amount of stopping entirely their eruptive activity. variety Including color, temperature, amount of water discharged, and level of activity exists among the Steamboat Geyser, the world's largest, erupted in The park contains over 200 geysers, the largest concen- various hot springs adding much to their charm. January and again on May 5, 1989. This geyser is tration found anywhere. Each one has a different highly unpredictable; these eruptions were the first pattern of activity, and these patterns are themselves Mudpots occur when a small amount of heated water since September, 1984. constantly changing. For many people, the chance to rises to dissolve and mix with the overlying rock. The experience close-up the power and beauty of the earth's result is a bubbly, soupy mixture ranging In texture from For more Information of the thermal features of inner workings is a moving experience; one that has thin to thick and viscous. Though generally tan in color, Yellowstone or to obtain geyser eruption predictions, contributed mightily to Yellowstone's popularity and the mudpots often contain minerals that create shades of ask at any visitor center. shaping of its destiny. gray, black, white, pink, and red, giving rise to the term Yellowstone Park Medical Services If injury or sudden Illness threatens to across the country. We work closely spoil your visit to Yellowstone, or you with National Park Service Medical left your prescription drugs in last night's Technicians and Park Medics to provide motel room, or you require periodic up-to-date prehospital care. Patients clinical laboratory testing throughout requiring advanced medical care are your travels - Yellowstone Park Medical transported to area hospitals or medical Services (YPMS) is there when you need centers for further evaluation and us. YPMS, a division of West Park treatment. Hospital, Cody, Wyoming, has been providing health care for Yellowstone YPMS provides medical services to CAUTION National Park's visitors and employees 5,000 to 6,000 visitors and employees FROST since 1980. each year. We see routine problems as HEAVES well as unique ones: scaldings from the HOLES Outpatient services are offered at three super-heated waters of thermal features; convenient locations throughout the park gorings by bison, moose or elk; or, very -- Lake, Old Faithful and Mammoth. The rarely, bear maulings. Please be careful Lake facility is also a full service hospital and cautious throughout your visit. with 10 inpatient beds, 24-hour ambu- lance and emergency service, and It is our goal to offer. the very best laboratory, pharmacy and radiology medical care possible to Yellowstone's services. visitors and employees in this uniquely beautiful wilderness setting. Our medical staff includes experienced and highly qualified professionals from Auto Assistance with COMPREHENSIVE MEDICAL CARE IN A WILDERNESS SETTING. Yellowstone Park Service Stations Lake Clinic, Pharmacy & Hospital Old Faithful Clinic Since its admittance to Yellowstone Emergency Room, 24-hour service YPSS also provides emergency road Hours: 8:30am-5:00pm National Park in 1915, the automobile Clinic Hours: 8:30am-8:30pm and wrecker service from its four repair Open 7 days per week has become a sightseeing bus, a security shops. The shops are staffed with Open 7 days per week May 29 October 11, 1989 blanket and a lifeboat for people touring certified automotive technicians to assist May 29 September 15, 1989 Phone (307) 545-7325 the park. With over 350 miles of paved park visitors with minor vehicle problems. Phone (307) 242-7241 roads through one of North America's last remaining Intact wilderness ecosystems On behalf of our 100 employees, YPSS Mammoth Family Clinic and the world's greatest collection of welcomes you to Yellowstone National Hours: 8:30am-5:00pm, geothermal features, Yellowstone offers Park. We ask that you treat the park, EMERGENCIES DIAL 911 Monday-Friday an unmatched touring experience. its wildlife, its resources and your fellow Open Year Round park visitor with respect. Enjoy your Phone (307) 344-7965 Yellowstone Park Service Stations stay and remember, "Keep your eyes on (YPSS) operates eight full-service service the road, your hands on the wheel, for in stations and four automotive towing and Yellowstone, SAFE DRIVING IS NO YELLOWSTONE PARK MEDICAL SERVICES repair shops to meet the needs of the ACCIDENT." A division of West Park Hospital - Cody, Wyoming motoring public. Our service stations offer gasoline as well as other automotive We're there when you need us! accessories. We also perform tire repairs, oil changes and other routine maintenance. Photo Copy Preservation 5 YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Some things all visitors must know Hazards in Yellowstone National Park Emergency:Dial,911 Contact A Ranger 3447381 Yellowstone is a wilderness filled with Beware ofFalling.Treesi natural wonders that are also potential hazards. There Is no guarantee of your safety. Regulations are strictly enforced Following the fires of 1988, thousands to protect you and the park's wonders. of dead trees, known as snags, were left standing in Yellowstone. These All wildlife, especially bison and bears, snags may fall with very little warning. are unpredictable and dangerous. View animals at a distance or from your car. Be cautlous and alert for falling Keep a safe distance from all wildilfe. snags along tralls and roadways, It Is against the law to approach within and in campsites and picnic areas. 100 yards of bears or within 25 yards Avoid areas with large numbers of dead trees. of other wildlife. For your safety and the animals' welfare, avoid all wildlife with young. Again, there is no guarantee of your safety. Avoid These.Situationsz Your visit may be marred by tragedy if -improper food storage you violate park rules. Law enforcement -camping violations rangers strictly enforce park regulations -pets off leash to protect you and the park. Please help -littering keep our contacts with you pleasant by -swimming in thermal pools paying special attention to park regula- -removal of natural features tions and avoiding these common -approaching wildlife too closely problems: Bears Dangerous, -boating and fishing violations -speeding (radar enforced) -failure to remove detachable side -driving while intoxicated mirrors when not pulling trailers All of Yellowstone is Bear Country. of garbage in bear-proofed trash or People have been seriously injured, garbage cans. Store all food and maimed, and killed by bears, Do not cooking utensils In a,secure place approach bears! Observe them at a such as: distance (you are at risk if you are closer -the trunk of your car than 100 yards). Bears may appear -suspended 10 feet above the ground tolerant of people but are known to attack and 4 feet horizontally from a tree or without warning. Feeding wildlife Is post unlawful. Animals who are fed often food storage box is available in become demanding and aggressive, selected sites in campgrounds. cause personal injury, and must be destroyed. If you are Involved In a conflict with a bear, (regardless of how minor) or if Odors attract bears! Bears need your you observe a bear or bear sign, report concern not your food. Never leave it to a park ranger as soon as possible. food or garbage unattended. Dispose Someone's safety may depend on it. Animals A Unpredictable Hill drive PLEASE Warning: Bison are more dangerous Bison may appear tame and slow but are STAY ON than they appear. Each year visitors wild, unpredictable and dangerous. approach bison too closely and are BOARDWALL gored. People have been killed by these Do not approach bison or any wildilfe. animals which weigh up to 2,000 pounds View and photograph them from the and sprint at 30 mph, three times faster safety of your vehicle. than you can run. Scalding.V Vater Can Ruin Your Vacation Stay on boardwalks and designated Yellowstone's thermal features are tralls. Scalding water underlies thin, extraordinary natural wonders. Here, the breakable crusts; pools are near or above world's last great array of geysers, hot boiling temperatures. Each year, visitors springs, mud pots and fumaroles is off trail in thermal areas have been preserved. However, thermal features seriously burned, and people have died are fragile and easily damaged. Walking in the scalding water. Boardwalks and on them, carving or defacing them, or trails protect you and preserve delicate removing souvenir pieces of formation formations, destroys decades or centuries of intricate natural processes. Throwing objects into Pets are prohibited In thermal areas. thermal features clogs underground channels, affects water circulation and Swimming or bathing In thermal pools has destroyed a number of geysers and or streams whose waters flow entirely hot springs. It is illegal to deface features, from a thermal spring or pool is prohib- throw objects into them or remove any ited. natural features from the park. Watch Your Children Your hand and your voice may be too far away once your child leaves your side. Please -- Protect Yourself and Your Park Photo Copy Preservation 6- YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Important Information Emergency Dial 911 Contact A Ranger 344-7381 ACCIDENTS pullouts, picnic areas, or parking lots. no off road or trall travel ls allowed, Exposure to wind, rain, or cold can result Report all accidents or Injuries to a park Canyon Village Campground, Fishing Operators must carry a valid state In hypothermia. This rapid loss of body ranger. Bridge RV Park and Fishing Bridge driver's license and vehicles must heat can cause death if not treated. Campground are restricted to hard- display valid state license plates. Early warning signs: shivering, slurred BICYCLING sided camping units only. speech, memory lapses, drowsiness, Bicycling is permitted on established PERMITS and exhaustion. Cold water is a special public roads, parking areas, and desig- CAMPFIRES Permits are required for boating, fish- hazard to fishermen and boaters, nated routes. There are no bicycle paths Campfires are permitted in designated Ing, and overnight backcountry use. along roadways. Bikes are prohibited campgrounds and in picnic areas where Carefully read the regulations and safety STREAM CROSSING on backcountry trails and boardwalks. fire grates are provided. Backcountry Information you receive with your permit. Fording a stream can be hazardous, We strongly recommend that safety gear, Use permits are required for campfires In especially during spring snowmelt/high Including helmet and high visibility the backcountry. Any dead and down PETS water. Check at local ranger stations for clothing, be worn by all bicyclists. Park material may be used as firewood. Pets must be leashed. They are prohib- current trail and stream conditions. roads are narrow and winding; most do CLIMBING ited on trails, in the backcountry and in not have a shoulder, or shoulders are thermal areas. SWIMMING covered with gravel. During April, May, Rock climbing in Yellowstone is danger- and June, high snowbanks make travel There are no swimming pools in Yellow- ous due to loose, crumbly rock. Climbing PICNIC AREAS more dangerous. Road elevations range stone, and swimming, bathing, or wading is not recommended. Overnight camping is not allowed in any in thermal features, or in streams whose from 5,300 to 8,860 feet and relatively long distances exist between services of the park's picnic areas. Fires may be waters flow from thermal features, is DEFACING PARK FEATURES and facilities. Motorists frequently do not built only in fire grates available in picnic illegal. River, stream, and lake water is Collecting natural or archeological see bicyclists or fail to give them suffi- areas at Lava Creek, Snake River, Grant so cold that hypothermia is a serious objects, or removing, defacing or des- cient space on the road. Drivers some- Village, Spring Creek, Nez Perce, and possibility. Swimming is generally troying any plant, animal, or mineral is times pass on hill crests, blind curves or the east parking lot of Old Faithful. Liquid discouraged. prohibited. Travel into fragile thermal in oncoming traffic. Vehicles, especially fuel stoves may be used for cooking at areas may result in damage to the area motor homes or those towing trailers, other locations. Most picnic areas have THEFT or serious injury from scalding water. may have wide mirrors. Extraordinary pit toilets, but none have drinking water. Theft is a potential problem. To avoid caution is advised. becoming a victim: FIREARMS SHOULD YOU DRINK -lock your vehicle. BOATING Firearms are not allowed in Yellowstone. THE WATER? -keep all valuables out of sight. However, unloaded firearms may be transported in a vehicle when the weapon Intestinal infections from drinking un- -put your name, address, or identifica- A permit is required for all vessels and must be obtained in person at any of the is cased, broken down or rendered treated water are increasingly common. tion number on all valuable property. following locations: South Entrance, inoperable, and kept out of sight. Waters may be polluted by animal and/or -report theft or vandalism to a ranger Lewis Lake Campground, Grant Village Ammunition must be placed in a human wastes. When possible, carry a immediately. Visitor Center, Bridge Bay Marina, Lake separate compartment of the vehicle. supply of water from a domestic source. Ranger Station, and Mammoth Visitor If you drink water from lakes and streams TRAFFIC Center. The fee is $10 for motorized LOST AND FOUND boil it a minimum of two minutes to Yellowstone has over 350 miles of vessels and $5 for nonmotorized vessels. reduce the chance of Infection. roads. Most are narrow, rough, and Grand Teton National Park's boat permit Report lost and found items to any visitor busyl Some sections are steep with will be honored; however, a free Yellow- center or ranger station. A report will be STORMS sharp drop offs. Drive cautiously and filed and the article returned when stone tag is required. All vessels are Yellowstone's weather is unpredictable. courteously; use pullouts to observe prohibited on park rivers and streams possible. For more assistance write: A sunny warm day may become fiercely wildlife and scenery and to allow other except the channel between Lewis and Yellowstone National Park, Visitor Shoshone Lakes, where only hand Services Office, P.O. Box 168, Yellow- stormy with wind, rain, sleet and some- traffic to safely pass. Be especially cautlous of frost heaves and road stone National Park, Wyoming 82190. times snow, Lightning storms are propelled vessels are permitted. common; get off-water or-beaches andrew damage; cool temperatures may occur any time of the year. The maximum MOTORCYCLES stay away from ridges, exposed places, CAMPING and isolated trees. Without adequate speed limit Is 45 mph unless otherwise Camping is permitted only In designated Motorcycles, motor scooters, and motor posted. Watch out for animals on the clothing and gear, an easy day hike or campgrounds. It is illegal to camp in bikes must be operated on park roads; boat trip can turn Into a battle for survival. road, especially at night. Bicycles and motorcycles present special hazards. Drive defensively. 123117 Camping in Yellowstone National Park Twelve campgrounds are operated by NJ 07601, or by phone by calling one of All camping is limited to 7 days between streams In this beautiful environment. the National Park Service In Yellowstone. the following numbers, 9:00am-9:00pm June 16 and August 25. Check out time Respect the rights of other campers and All campsites are available on a first- Pacific time: (213) 410-1720; for all campgrounds is 10:00am. Addi- comply with the law by adhering to quiet come, first-served basis with the (303) 825-8447; or (602) 340-9033. tional camping facilities are available in hours, 8:00 pm to 8:00 am, which will exception of Bridge Bay campground national forest areas and communities be strictly enforced. No generators, loud which Is on the nationwide Ticketron Camping or overnight vehicle parking outside the park. audio devices or other noise disturban- campground reservation system. In pullouts, parking areas, plcnic ces will be allowed during this time. This reservation system is in effect grounds, or any place other than a June 10 to September 3. Reservations RV Park designated campground is not for Bridge Bay may be made up to eight permitted, and there are no overflow A trailer village (no tents or tent trailers Group Camping weeks in advance in person at any one camping facilities. allowed) is operated by TW Recreational Group camping areas are available for of 600 Ticketron outlets throughout the Services, Inc. at Fishing Bridge. Water, large organized groups with a designa- country, Including Bridge Bay camp- Canyon Village and Fishing Bridge sewer, and electrical hookups are avail- ted leader such as youth groups, edu- ground. Reservations may also be made campgrounds are restricted to hard-sided able for $17.00 per day. For Information cational groups, etc. (family reunions by mail through Ticketron, Department R, camping units only no tents or tent and reservations, call TW Recreational or similar gatherings do not qualify). 401 Hackensack Avenue, Hackensack, trailers due to the frequency of bears. Services, Inc. at (307) 344-7311 or write TW Recreational Services, Inc., The nightly fee is $2.00 per person. Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 Advance reservations are required and can be made beginning January 1 Dump No. of 1989 Quiet Hours by contacting Yellowstone National Campground Camping in Yellowstone is a special Park, Attention Visitor Services Office, Station Sites Fee Dates2 experience. Each visitor deserves the Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming Mammoth No 85 Year Round opportunity to hear the birds, wildlife and 82190, (307) 344-7381. $7.00 Madison Yes 292 $7.00 May 5 October 31 Bridge Bay 1 No 420 $9.00 May 26 September 25 Norris No 116 $7.00 May 19 September 18 Slough Creek No 29 $5.00 May 26 October 31 Tower Fall No 32 $5.00 June 2 September 18 IF YOU PLAN TO HIKE NEAR CRAIG PASS *Fishing Bridge Yes 98 $7.00 May 26 September 5 *Canyon Village Yes 280 $7.00 June 9 September 11 Road construction on Craig Pass, located between Old Faithful and Indian Creek No 75 $5.00 June 9 September 18 West Thumb, will affect access to and use of trailheads along this route. Grant Village Yes 403 $7.00 June 16 October 16 Parking may not be available. Pebble Creek No 36 $5.00 June 16 September 11 Lewis Lake No 85 $5.00 June 16 October 31 Please plan your trip accordingly; talk with a park ranger concerning *Hard sided camping vehicles only access before hiking these trails. On Reservation System (see description above) Dates may change due to weather or resource management concerns Photo Copy Preservation 7 YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Hiking Information Yellowstone National Park, encompassing 2.2 million acres, is one of America's premier wilderness areas, Most of the park is backcountry and managed as wilderness. Over 1,100 miles of trails are available for hiking. However, there are dangers inherent in wilderness: unpredictable wildlife, changing weather conditions, remote thermal areas, cold water lakes, turbulent streams, and rugged mountains with loose, "rotten" rock are among them. Visiting wilderness means experiencing the land on its terms. You have chosen to explore and enjoy the natural wonders of Yellowstone but there is no guarantee of your safety. Be prepared for any situation! Carefully read all backcountry guide- lines and regulations. Rules To preserve Yellowstone's backcountry 48 hours in advance. Each designated wood. Wood or ground fires are not al- and enhance your wilderness experience, SANITATION campsite has a maximum limit for the lowed in some campsites. Your fire must the National Park Service has established number of people and stock allowed per Bury human waste 6 to 8 Inches below the following regulations and guidelines. be attended at all times and be com- night. The maximum stay per campsite the ground and a minimum of 100 feet pletely extinguished before you leave, varies from 1 to 3 nights per trip. A day- from a watercourse. Waste water should Contact a park ranger before you begin use permit is required for some areas. be disposed of at least 100 feet from a PACK IT IN PACK IT OUT a day hike or overnight trip. Bear activities sometimes require hiking watercourse and campsite. Do not All refuse must be carried out of the and camping restrictions. Permits are pollute lakes, ponds, rivers, or streams PERMITS backcountry. This includes items partly also required for boating and fishing. by washing yourself, clothing or dishes burned In the fire pit such as foil, tin or Permits are required for some day hikes in them. Information and permits are available glass. and all overnight trips. Yellowstone Park at ranger stations and visitor centers. has a designated backcountry campsite PROTECTING NATURAL FEATURES FIREARMS PETS system and a non-fee permit is required CAMPFIRES Removing, defacing or destroying any Firearms, pets, motorized equipment, for overnight stays. Permits can be Campfires are permitted only in estab- plant, animal, or mineral is prohibited. obtained only in person and no more than and wheeled vehicles are prohibited in lished fire pits. Burn only dead and down Leave historical and archeological items the backcountry. in place. Report your findings to a park ranger. Hiking and Camping in Bear Country Yellowstone Park is home to both grizzly -Sleep a minimum of 100 yards from IF YOU ENCOUNTER A BEAR and black bears. Although the risk of where you hang your food, garbage, and If a grizzly charges, your options are: an encounter with a bear Is low, there Even if you have taken all precautions, *drop a pack or jacket to distract the prepare your meals. are no guarantees. Know how to you may still encounter a bear. If you do: bear -Keep your sleeping gear clean and minimize the risks. -Stay calm; it will probably leave you free of food odor. *climb at least 12 feet up a stout tree alone. Do not make abrupt moves or *as a last resort, assume a "cannon -Do not sleep in the clothes you cook in. HIKING noises that might startle the bear. -Hang the clothing you wore while ball". position to protect your head Make your presence known; do not -Give the bear plenty of room. Slowly cooking and eating in plastic bags. and stomach while playing dead. surprise a bear. Hike in groups and detour, keeping upwind SO it will get your -There is evidence that menstruation, make noise. Many experienced hikers scent and know you are there. If you Because grizzlies can attain short bursts sexual intercourse, cosmetic odors and wear bells, whistle, talk loudly, or sing. cannot detour, look for a climbable tree sweet smelling substances may attract of speed up to 40 mph, running away is If you see a bear, give it plenty of room. while waiting for the bear to move away bears. a poor option. Do not make abrupt moves or noises from your route. that might startle it. If you cannot detour, If you are involved in a conflict with a wait until the bear moves away from bear, regardless of how minor, report it your route. Do not try to approach it for to a park ranger as soon as possible. a better look or a picture. Sows with Someone else's safety may depend on it. young or bears defending a carcass are especially dangerous be alerti BEAR MANAGEMENT AREAS Exceptional combinations of food, CAMPING shelter and space draw grizzlies Never camp in an area that has obvious to some parts of Yellowstone evidence of bear activity such as digging, more than others. tracks, or scat. MIN. MIN SLEEPING AREA In these BEAR MANAGEMENT ODORS ATTRACT BEARS AREAS, human access is restricted to -Avoid carrying or cooking odorous MINIMUM MINIMUM DISTANCE 100 YARDS reduce impacts on the bears and their foods. habitat. Information about these areas -Food and garbage must be secured and their restrictions is available at from bears. Hang all food at least 10 feet ranger stations and visitor centers. above the ground and at least 4 feet COOKING AND FOOD STORAGE AREA horizontally from any post or tree trunk. Bear Facts: Characteristics of Grizzly & Black Bears GRIZZLY BLACK Hump GRIZZLY BEAR BLACK BEAR Rump lower Hump absent than shoulders Rump higher (Ursus arctos horribilis Ord) (Ursus americanus Pallas) than shouklers COLOR: Varies from black to blonde; COLOR: Varies from pure black to frequently with white tipped fur, giving a brown, cinnamon or blonde; in the grizzled "silvertip" appearance. Rocky Mountains about 50 percent are black with a brown muzzle. HEIGHT: About 3-1/2 feet at the shoul- der; reaches 6 to 7 feet when standing HEIGHT: About three feet at the Dish-shaped Straight profile on hind legs. shoulder. profile WEIGHT: Adults average 350 lbs. Some WEIGHT: Adults range from 125 to over weigh 650 to 700 lbs and, rarely, 800 lbs 500 lbs. Females are generally smaller or more. Females are generally smaller than males, Ruff of long fur Rulf absent than males, HOME RANGE SIZE: Males: 2 to 76 HOME RANGE SIZE: Males: 73 to 1059 Claws longer square miles; Females: 1 to 19 square and curved Claws shorter are and more curved square miles; Females: 11 to 486 square miles, miles. LIFE EXPECTANCY: 15 to 20 years in LIFE EXPECTANCY: 15 to 20 years in the wild; 30 or more in captivity. the wild; 30 or more in captivity. Claws longer Claws shorter Toss closer together and Toes more less arced seperated and A small grizzly is often difficult to distinguish from a large black bear. However, more arced * all bears are dangerous; treat them with extreme caution. Sows with cubs are especially ferocious when protecting them from real or perceived danger. If you discover an animal carcass, be alert; these are important sources of food, especially during spring, and bears will aggressively defend their caches. * line drawn under big too across top of pad runs through top 1/2 of this 100 on black bear tracks and through or below bottom 1/2 of title los on grizzly tracks. Photo Copy Preservation YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Where Are The Bears? In the past, bears were a common sight garbage out of the park daily are addi- The first years of the program showed sources. Those bears that returned to in Yellowstone National Park - along the tional measures the National Park that as unnatural food sources were areas with concentrations of people and roads, in campgrounds and developed Service takes to meet this objective. eliminated inside the park, some bears continued to seek unnatural foods and to areas. Massive traffic "bear jams," switched to natural diets. Bears that threaten the safety of park visitors were personal property damages and injuries 3. Prompt Management Response: continued to utilize unnatural food removed from the population. caused by bears were also common, As When prevention, through the elimination sources were trapped and relocated visitation to the park increased, so did the of all unnatural food attractants, does not away from concentrations of people In As the program progressed and as number of bear incidents. During the deter a bear from frequenting an area hopes they would establish themselves bears either switched to natural diets or period from 1931 through 1969, bears, where people congregate, an attempt is totally independent of unnatural food were removed from the population, the both black and grizzly, caused an numbers of property damages and average of 148 property damages and injuries and the need to remove "prob- 48 personal injuries per year. Some lem" bears were reduced. The intense roadside beggar bears were being bear management program begun in the accidentally killed by motor vehicles, and 1960s and early 1970s remains in place aggressive bears involved in personal today in Yellowstone. However, it is no property damage or injuries had to be longer aimed at correcting a problem destroyed. The situation was not good situation but at preventing such a for either people or bears, and the situation from developing. National Park Service sought to correct it. Bears continue to be observed in What caused this problem? Bears were Yellowstone, many from the roadways. associating people with mealtime. Most bear observations occur during Ninety-five percent of the injuries to early morning or evening hours, and near people by bears were related to bears tree cover along the edge of open areas. seeking human foods and garbage. In The bear population in Yellowstone today the early days of the park, both black and is wild and continues to exist as part of a grizzly bears quickly developed a taste natural system, providing park visitors for readily available human foods. The lucky enough to see a bear with a true presence of open garbage dumps and National Park experience. the willingness of travellers to stop and feed bears along the roadsides only encouraged this taste, Simply put, bears made to modify the bear's behavior. had come to depend on peoples' food Trapping the bear and relocating it to an behavers Aversive Conditioning to Manage Bears and garbage as a substitute for their area away from concentrations of people natural diet. is the most common method used. If In cooperation with the Wyoming Game and Fish Department, the National Park attempts fail, and the bear continues to Service is researching the possibility of modifying bear behavior through aversive So what was the National Park Service pose a threat to people, it is removed conditioning. This program targets bears that are in danger of getting into problem to do to correct this problem? During the from the population. situations which could lead to their removal from the Yellowstone population. late 1960s and early 1970s, an intensive bear management program began with 4. Continued Research on and If you see or hear about park rangers or game wardens shooting at bears with "odd an emphasis on restoring and maintain- Monitoring of Bears and Their looking" weapons, they are using a modified gas gun to propel a projectile. This ing natural populations of grizzly and Activities: Research provides manage- projectile is filled with water and is designed to explode on impact, creating a source black bears as part of the park's native ment with factual knowledge about bear of pain without causing harm to the bear. When a bear is involved in an activity that fauna, and on providing for the safety of distribution, population dynamics, behav- could lead to problems, it will be shot with one of these projectiles. The objective is park visitors. To accomplish these goals, iors and the ecology of bear-human for the bear to associate pain with that particular activity and hopefully avoid similar the following objectives were critical: interactions. This information is essential situations in the future. when evaluating the effectiveness of 1. Public Awareness: Inform and management programs affecting or While preventing bears from getting into problem situations in the first place is the educate people about bears, especially affected by the grizzly bear population. best method of Insuring the survival of the bear, this project may provide a future about the value of having bears and how means of saving bears that would otherwise be removed from the population. to minimize conflicts when visiting or The monitoring of bear activity identifies living in bear country. Emphasize the areas where the potential for a conflict need to eliminate unnatural food sources between people and bears exists and in- Trumpeter Swans Need Your Help in the form of human food and garbage sures that the management program is in order to reduce property damage, In the past, Yellowstone National Park implemented when necessary. To insure Livingston, Montana. The project calls has been instrumental in conservation personal injuries and the subsequent the safety of park visitors and employees for replacing existing mute swans on removal of problem bears, efforts to save the trumpeter swan. and the protection of bears, areas with the ranch with captive bred trumpeter Recently, the trumpeter swan has been high levels of bear activity are patrolled swans; the eventual goal is for natural 2. Eliminate Unnatural Food Attrac- facing more problems, both natural and reproduction of trumpeter swans on the by rangers and posted with warning man-caused, than ever before. tants: This is a program based on ranch, with the offspring flying freely in signs, or restricted, prevention. All human food and garbage the Paradise Valley and throughout the In an effort to reduce man-caused is secured so that it is unavailable to The majority of information about bear Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. You bears. This is accomplished by providing problems, the Trumpeter Swan Recovery activity comes from people who report can help in the recovery of the trumpeter Fund was established. Our most recent visitors and employees with bearproof sighting bears or signs of a bear being in swan by making donations to the follow- garbage cans and by implementing strict project is a cooperative venture involving ing tax deductible fund: an area (such as tracks or scat). Every- Yellowstone National Park, the Montana food security regulations. Ranger patrols Trumpeter Swan Recovery Fund one who sees a bear, or is involved in a Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks, c/o Yellowstone Association insuring regulation compliance, prohibit- bear incident, should report it to a park the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and P.O. Box 117 ing the feeding of wildlife, frequent ranger. The bear's welfare and safety of the Call of the Wild Ranch just south of garbage pickups, and the hauling of all Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 other park visitors may be at stake. Photographers: Don't Let This Develop Yellowstone inspires the photographer in approached to within 10 to 15 feet to all of us. Wildlife are particularly fascinat- take a picture. In the past few years, two ing to observe and photograph, perhaps people have been killed by grizzly bears because there are few places where it is in national parks while trying to get possible to see an animal in its natural photos. As a rule, a camera lens of less environment. Nearly all the animals than 200mm is inadequate for wildlife inhabiting Yellowstone when it was photography. If your camera is not established 117 years ago still roam this equipped with telephoto lenses, do not vast wilderness. However, no matter how attempt closeup photography. Instead, tame these animals may appear to be, photograph the animal in its surroundings they are wild, unpredictable and danger- or purchase slides or books. Be espe- ous. Females with young are very cially alert when photographing bears. protective and can be ferociously Look for signs of activity such as tracks, aggressive. Keep a safe distance scat, or animal carcasses. Make the bear from all wildlife. It is against the law aware of your presence by making noise. to approach within 100 yards of bears or within 25 yards of other wildlife. Animals in the wild behave differently A simple way to know if you are disturb- than animals in zoos, and undisturbed ing wildife is: if you cause an animal to space Is among the greatest of their move, you are too close. needs. Respect this, and you will be rewarded by seeing more of their natural Every year, the major cause of injury to activities and discovering how they live in visitors by wildlife is approaching animals the wild. You'll also expand your photo too closely. At least 90 percent of bison opportunities and have a safe, rewarding gorings have resulted when visitors visit. Photo Copy Preservation 9 YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 Hamilton Stores, Oldest Park Concessioner HAMILTON STORES INC. As 1990 approaches, Hamilton Stores Hamilton Stores takes pride in its many looks forward to celebrating its 75th years of serving the traveling public with EST. 1915 anniversary. We take great pride in its fifteen facilities within Yellowstone. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK being the oldest concessioner under the Comprised of eight general stores, three jurisdiction of the National Park Service photo shops, two mini-convenience Serving the traveling public since 1915, and a family owned, third generation stores, a Christmas and Photo Shop in Hamilton Stores, Inc. offers a wide variety business. In 1915, Charles Ashworth the Mammoth area, and a tackle shop Hamilton established Hamilton Stores, located in the Bridge Bay Marina, we of merchandise including Yellowstone souvenirs, film and Inc. with the purchase of the old Klamer carry and provide'a broad range of photo supplies, fishing and camping equipment, T shirts and General Store in the Upper Geyser Basin products and services needed by visitors sweatshirts, liquor, groceries and food, hot coffee, cold beer of the Old Faithful area. Pictures of the during their stay in Yellowstone. facility, complete with horses and buggies and other beverages. parked in front, still exist. Very quickly From food products, home decor and after those pictures were taken, Hamilton gifts, apparel, souvenirs, fishing, camping We feature one-hour on-site film processing at our Old Stores, Yellowstone Park, and most and photo supplies, right down to on-site definitely, the entire nation, moved into Faithful and Canyon Village Photo Shops, and at our Fishing photo processing in select locations, the automobile age. Hay barns were we try to offer the various conveniences Bridge and Grant Village General Stores. replaced by service stations and we all necessary and desirable to assist in moved into a new era. making your Yellowstone stay as Come in and try our premium, hand-dipped ice cream made pleasant and memorable an experience The wonders of Yellowstone are now as possible. locally in Montana. A wide variety of flavors is available accessible to all who wish to explore at all of our General Stores. and enjoy them. To those who prefer a Hamilton Stores Invites you to visit its leisurely pace, much of this great park locations and share a bit of our history. can be viewed by car. To those who Welcome to Yellowstone... and our best A special invitation to visit our Christmas Shop at Mammoth desire a more personal experience, wishes for an enjoyable stay in your Hot Springs, open from June 2 through August 31. Opened nature walks, backcountry hiking and National Park. for the first time in 1986, it carries merchandise exclusive backpacking. by permit, are options. to that location, a working toy train, and trees decorated to represent the Rockies and the uniqueness of Yellowstone. (It also features unscheduled visits by Santa himself!) Providing electricity to mpc Yellowstone National Park For locations and dates of operation, consult the Directory since 1959. May your visit to Yellowstone be memorable. of Visitor Services on page 11. The Montana Power Company WOLF Grades through 12 For entry information, call (307) 344-7381, ext. 2255 You Can Help Support Fishing in Yellowstone Through the Yellowstone Fishery Fund A growing number of people are dedicated to preserving the fisheries of Yellowstone National Park. Although fishing in the park is free. voluntary finan- cial support needed to protect this national treasure. Your contribution will be used for fisheries research and law enforcement. Yellowstone Fishery Fund National Park Service P.O. Box 168 YNP. WY 82190 Church Services & Handicapped Access WELL Expedition Yellowstone -- An Schedules of services of worship are A listing of facilities, scenic areas and Exciting Learning Experience posted at visitor centers, campgrounds features which are accessible to the and on other bulletin boards throughout handicapped can be obtained at any The National Park Service announces a planning an "Expedition!" to the park. Yellowstone. Services take place both visitor center. For more information, new curriculum for upper elementary Rustic cabins at the Lamar Buffalo Ranch in the park and in communities located or to make suggestions, contact the grades called Expedition: Yellowstonel may be reserved and school groups are outside of the park. Handicapped Access Coordinator, Students are now able to learn about the assigned a park ranger to help plan and Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. park either by studying it at their school or prepare their trip. by combining classroom work with a trip (an" Expedition!") to Yellowstone. For more information, mail this coupon to the address below, leave it at any visitor Aimed at the 4th, 5th and 6th grade center or call (307) 344-7381, ext. 2338. levels, the curriculum materials consist Expedition Yellowstone Yellowstone Park Activities of a teacher's workbook and a storybook, National Park Service Guided Horseback Rides tied together by shared concepts. P.O. Box 168 Teachers registering to participate in the Yellowstone National Park, at Roosevelt, Canyon and Mammoth program will also receive information for Wyoming 82190 Old West Cookouts at Roosevelt (Dinner and Breakfast) Stagecoach Outings at Roosevelt Please send me more information about the Expedition Yellowstonel program Lake Cruises, Boat Rentals, Guided Fishing Trips at Bridge Bay Marina on Yellowstone Lake Name Sightseeing Bus Tours for all major locations For information and reservations, phone (307) 344-7311 School or stop at any TW Recreational Services Activity Desk, located at most in-park locations. Address TW RECREATIONAL City, State, Zip SERVICES, INC. (Check) (Area Code) Phone Please call me, have a question. Photo Copy Preservation 10- YELLOWSTONE TODAY, Summer 1989 LEE Nature Study at Yellowstone Institute Information On Neighboring Parks Information about roads and facilities in Grand Teton National Park Grand Teton and Glacier National Parks (307) 733-2880 is available by calling these numbers: Glacier National Park (406) 888-5441 TW RECREATIONAL SERVICES, INC. TW Recreational Services, Inc., operates hotels and lodges throughout the park as well as gift shops, restaurants and snack shops. Other services and activities include horse rides, cook- outs, stagecoach outings, lake cruises, boat rentals and bus tours. Reservations for accommodations and activities are suggested. Call (307) 344-7311. Don't forget to ask about winter vacation opportunities in Yellowstone Park. For locations of accommodations and activities, and dates of Bill Lang, editor of Montana the Magazine of Western History, conducting a class operation, consult the Directory of Visitor Services on page 11. at the Yellowstone Institute in the Lamar Valley. Over 60 courses on topics such as geysers, grizzlies, photography, wildflowers and park history are offered. For details on these learning vacations, call (307) 344-7381, ext. 2384 or write to Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 (Photo by Gene Ball) Don't Forget Your Fishing Permit TW Recreational Services, Inc. SIZE Yellowstone's Lodging Concessioner In Yellowstone, bald eagles, osprey, fishing opportunities for park visitors pelicans, otters, grizzly bears and other consistent with the first two goals. TW Recreational Services, Inc. has been During the past several years, TW wildlife take precedence over humans as Yellowstone's lodging concessioner since Recreational Services, Inc. has provided consumers of fish. Additionally, all fish With some exceptions, Yellowstone's 1979. Summer operations include the millions of dollars in investment funding are wild (there is no stocking), so there fishing season begins on the Saturday of park's lodging facilities, R.V. Park, for new concession facilities at Yellow- must be sufficient adult fish to reproduce Memorial Day weekend and closes restaurants, cafeterias, snack shops, stone, Zion and Bryce Canyon National and maintain populations and to assure on October 31. Exceptions: all rivers cocktail lounges, gift shops; cookouts; Parks, and improvements in concession genetic diversity. These facts require and streams in the Yellowstone River corrals, sight-seeing services and a full facilities at Grand Canyon's North Rim both a philosophical and literal distinction drainage south of the Chittenden Bridge service marina on Yellowstone Lake. and Everglades National Parks. between recreational angling and at Canyon open July 15 (including those Winter operations include lodging, consuming fish. In Yellowstone, angling portions of Yellowstone Lake within 100 restaurants, lounges, ski The staff and management extend a is based on fishing for native species or yards of a river or stream outlet); all lakes coach tours and snowmobile rental. warm welcome to Yellowstone visitors. wild trout in a natural setting. in the Yellowstone River drainage south We invite your questions and comments of the Chittenden Bridge open June 15; TW Recreational Services, Inc. has and will do our utmost to assure your visit Fishing regulations in Yellowstone the Trout Lake drainage above Soda decades of experience in providing to Yellowstone is a memorable experi- National Park have evolved as ongoing Butte Creek including Trout, Buck and lodging, food, gift shops and other visitor ence. Contact TW Recreational Services, research reveals population trends and Shrimp Lakes opens June 15; Agate services at national parks, state parks, Inc., Yellowstone National Park, WY interrelationships with the rest of the Creek and Cottonwood Creek, and the state lodges and recreational areas. The 82190. Phone (307) 344-7311 for Yellowstone ecosystem. Increasing Yellowstone River within 100 yards of company operates visitor facilities at Zion information and reservations. numbers of anglers have also influenced the mouths of Agate and Cottonwood and Bryce Canyon National Parks In the development of regulations by their Creeks, open to fishing on July 15; the Utah, North Rim Grand Canyon National TW Recreational Services, Inc. hires Impact on certain species and aquatic Madison, Firehole, Gibbon, Snake, Lewis Park in Arizona, Everglades National more than 2000 seasonal employees in habitats. Regulations have been (below the falls), Lamar and Gardner Park in Florida, and Scotty's Castle, Yellowstone National Park. For employ- simplified to a concept known as "species Rivers and Soda Butte Creek will remain Death Valley National Monument in ment information and applications, please management." This approach is com- open until the West Entrance Road is California. contact the above address. monly used by fish and wildlife agencies closed to visitor traffic for the winter. in the western United States, and it will more effectively achieve management A current fishing permit (issued free of USWEST goals of preserving and restoring native charge) is required and must be carried fishes and their habitats, managing fish by all persons 12 years of age and older COMMUNICATIONS as an essential part of the total park who are fishing in Yellowstone Park. ecosystem, and providing recreational Contact a ranger for more information. Have a safe and enjoyable visit to Yellowstone, the world's first National Park. Wolf Pac Now Available for Teachers A new series of curriculum materials on wolves is currently in production by the National Park Service and the Denver Museum of Natural History. "Wolf Pacl" is YPS designed to help teachers and parents, together with their children, learn more about one of the most fascinating and controversial animals in North America, the gray wolf. YELLOWSTONE PARK "Wolf Pac!" consists of several publications about wolves as well as activities for young people targeted to grade levels K-4, 5-8, and 9-12. SERVICE STATIONS These materials will be ready for shipment in June, 1989, and the best part is. they're Yellowstone Park Service Stations has been serving visitors to free! How do you get them? Simply supply us with the information requested below, Yellowstone Park since 1947. We offer quality petroleum and we'll see that a copy of "Wolf Paci" is sent to you as soon as it's available. products at eight full-service stations located throughout Yes, I would like to receive "Wolf Pacl" Please send my copy to: Yellowstone. See page 11 for opening dates. Your Name Tires Batteries - Automobile Accessories Your School LP Gas bottle filling plants are located at Address Old Faithful, Grant Village and Fishing Bridge City, State, ZIP Automobile towing and repair facilities are located at Grades Taught Is this your home or school address? Old Faithful, Grant Village, Fishing Bridge and Canyon Please turn this coupon in to any Yellowstone Visitor Center or mail it to: "Wolf Pac!", Division of Interpretation, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. MasterCard, Visa and Conoco credit cards are accepted Photo Copy Preservation 11 YELLOWSTONE Summer 1989 Directory of Visitor Services Facilities & Services offered by Hamilton Stores, Inc. * TW Recreational Services, Inc. * Yellowstone Park Service Stations Yellowstone Park Medical Services Reservations are suggested for lodging & activities; call TW Recreational Services (307) 344-7311. National Park Service Information (307) 344-7381; Emergency Dial 911 Light Meals Accommodations Fast Foods Marina OLD FAITHFUL INN Rooms, suites. May 5- OLD FAITHFUL PHOTO SHOP April 20-October 22 BRIDGE BAY MARINA Dock rental June 2- October 11 OLD FAITHFUL BASIN STORE May 6-October 11 September 18; Scenicruiser excursions June 5- OLD FAITHFUL SNOW LODGE Rooms and cabins. OLD FAITHFUL BAC STORE May 14-September 14 September 18; Boat rental, guided fishing trips May 19-October 30 WEST THUMB STORE April 28-October 15 June 15-September 18. OLD FAITHFUL LODGE Cabins. May 23- GRANT VILLAGE GENERAL'STORE June 10- September 25 September 18 GRANT VILLAGE Rooms. May 31-September 18 BRIDGE BAY MARINA STORE June 9-Sept. 16 LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL Rooms, suites, LAKE GENERAL STORE May 21-September 17 Horse Operations cabins. May 24-September 17 FISHING BRIDGE GENERAL STORE May 20- MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS Trail rides. May 27- LAKE LODGE Cabins. June 5-September 11 September 7 September 17 CANYON LODGE Cabins. June 12-August 28 CANYON PHOTO SHOP April 27-October 10 CANYON LODGE Trail rides. June 10-Sept. 5 ROOSEVELT LODGE Cabins. June 3-September 5 CANYON VILLAGE GENERAL STORE May 26- ROOSEVELT LODGE Trail rides, June 3- MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL Rooms, cabins. September 4 September 4; Stagecoach Outing, June 3-Sept. 4; May 27-September 17 TOWER FALL STORE May 27-September 12 Old West Cookouts: Dinner, June 4-September 4; ROOSEVELT STORE June 3-September 5 Breakfast, June 27-August 18. MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS GENERAL STORE Restaurants, Cafeterias Open year round Fast Foods Medical Services OLD FAITHFUL INN DINING ROOM May 5- lo General Stores October 11 LAKE HOSPITAL May 29- September 15 OLD FAITHFUL INN, PONY EXPRESS SNACK Phone (307) 242-7241 OLD FAITHFUL BASIN STORE May 6-October 11 SHOP May 25-September 25 OLD FAITHFUL CLINIC May 29-October 11 OLD FAITHFUL BAC STORE May 14-September 14 OLD FAITHFUL SNOW LODGE FAMILY Phone (307) 545-7325 GRANT VILLAGE MINI STORE June 1-September 26 RESTAURANT May 19-September 5; MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS CLINIC Open year "GRANT VILLAGE GENERAL STORE June 10- reopens October 1-October 30 round, weekdays; phone (307) 344-7965 September 18; one hour film processing approx. OLD FAITHFUL LODGE SNACK SHOP May 24- June 10-September 4 September 25 WEST THUMB STORE April 28-October 15 OLD FAITHFUL LODGE CAFETERIA May 23- BRIDGE BAY MARINA STORE June 9-Sept. 16 Campgrounds September 24 LAKE GENERAL STORE May 21-September 17 OLD FAITHFUL FOUR SEASONS SNACK SHOP Operated by the National Park Service. First come, "FISHING BRIDGE GENERAL STORE -May 20-Sept. May 26-September 5 first served except for Bridge Bay. Select sites early. One hour film processing approx: May 20-Sept. 4 GRANT VILLAGE RESTAURANT May 31-Sept. 18 Dates subject to change. CANYON VILLAGE GENERAL STORE May 26- GRANT VILLAGE STEAK HOUSE May 31-June 6, September 4 dinner only; June 7-Sept. 4, breakfast and dinner *MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS Open Year Round TOWER FALL STORE May 27-September 12 LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL DINING ROOM *MADISON May 5-October 31 ROOSEVELT STORE June 3-September 5 May 24-September 17 BRIDGE BAY May 26-September 25 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS GENERAL STORE LAKE LODGE CAFETERIA June 5-September 11 On reservation system; see page 6. Open year round LAKE LODGE SNACK SHOP June 6-August 27 *NORRIS May 19-September 18 This location offers one hour film processing CANYON LODGE SNACK BAR June 5-Sept. 5 SLOUGH CREEK May 26-October 31 CANYON LODGE CAFETERIA June 12-August 28 TOWER FALL June 2-September 18 CANYON LODGE DINING ROOM June 18-Aug. 25 Photo Shops *FISHING BRIDGE Hard-sided camping ROOSEVELT LODGE DINING ROOM June 3- .80 vehicles only; May 26-September 5 Gifts, Souvenirs September 5 FISHING BRIDGE RV PARK Utility hookups. ROOSEVELT LODGE COOKOUT Dinner June 4- Hard-sided camping vehicles only. Maximum **OLD FAITHFUL PHOTO SHOP April 20-October 22 September 4. Breakfast June 27-August 18 length 40 feet. Operated by TW Recreational One hour film processing approx. May 1-Sept. 10 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL DINING ROOM Services, Inc. Call (307)344-7311 for reservations. BRIDGE BAY MARINA STORE June 9-Sept. 16 May 27-September 17 May 27-September 10 **CANYON PHOTO SHOP April 27-October 10 MAMMOTH FAST FOODS May 13-September 24 *CANYON VILLAGE Hard-sided camping One hour film processing approx. May 26-Sept. 4 vehicles only. June 9-September 11 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS CHRISTMAS AND *GRANT VILLAGE June October 16. Dinner reservations required. Inquire at hotel front PHOTO SHOP June 2-August 31 desk or dining room host stand. *INDIAN CREEK June 9-September 18 This location offers one hour film processing PEBBLE CREEK June 16-September 11 LEWIS LAKE June 16-October 31 Hotel & Lodge Triangle Firewood sells firewood at these is Service Stations campgrounds Gift Shops OLD FAITHFUL, Lower Station -April 20-Oct. 31or later OLD FAITHFUL INN May 5-October 11 OLD FAITHFUL, Upper Station May 13-September 5 OLD FAITHFUL SNOW LODGE May 19-October 30 GRANT VILLAGE June 1-September 18 OLD FAITHFUL LODGE May 23-September 25 Facilities and services are available in LAKE YELLOWSTONE May 20-September 18 GRANT VILLAGE May 31-September 18 FISHING BRIDGE May 1-October 31 or later communities near the park. For information, LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL May 24-Sept. 17 CANYON VILLAGE May 8-October 10 contact the Chambers of Commerce in: LAKE LODGE June 5-September 11 TOWER JUNCTION June 3-September 5 CANYON LODGE June 12-August 28 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS May 12-October 9 Billings, Montana Bozeman, Montana ROOSEVELT LODGE June 3-September 5 (406)245-4111 (406)586-5421 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL May 27- OLD FAITHFUL REPAIR SERVICE May 26- September 17 September 4. Wrecker service will be provided from Cody, Wyoming Cooke City- the Old Faithful stations May 8-October 14. (307)587-2297 Silver Gate Montana GRANT VILLAGE REPAIR SERVICE June 1- (406)838-2265 Public Showers September 18 Gardiner, Montana FISHING BRIDGE REPAIR SERVICE May 26- Laundry (406)848-7681 September 10. Wrecker service will be provided from Jackson, Wyoming Fishing Bridge stations May 8-October 14. (307)733-3316 OLD FAITHFUL LODGE Showers. May 23-Sept. 25 CANYON REPAIR SERVICE May 26-September 4 Livingston, Montana GRANT VILLAGE CAMPGROUND Showers and (406)222-0850 Red Lodge, Montana laundry. June 16-October 16 OLD FAITHFUL LP GAS PLANT May 15-Sept. 16 (406)446-1718 LAKE LODGE Laundry. June 5-September 11 GRANT VILLAGE LP GAS PLANT June 1- West Yellowstone FISHING BRIDGE RV PARK showers and laundry. September 18 Montana Dubois, Wyoming May 27-September 10 FISHING BRIDGE LP GAS PLANT May 1- Oct. 31 (406)646-7701 CANYON VILLAGE CAMPGROUND Showers and (307)455-2556 laundry. June 9-September 11 Photo Copy Preservation Yellowstone National Park Roads and Facilities Emergency: Dial 911 Contact a Ranger: (307) 344-7381 To Livingston To Bozeman Gardiner Silver Gate & North Entrance Cooke City To Red Lodge S ml. Northeast & Billings Entrance Mammoth Hot Springs in A FS 18 ml. A A Yellowstone 29 ml. Tower-Roosevelt Institute A in A FS 21 ml. 19 ml. Norris Geyser Basin Canyon in in FS 12 ml. West Yellowstone 14 ml. To Ashton & Idaho Falls 16 ml. West Entrance 14 ml. Madison Fishing Bridge in & 11 In 16 ml. in FS Lake In Pm 1 Bridge 27 ml. Pahaska Bay Tepee To Cody *Craig Pass Yellowstone East Entrance Old Faithful 17 ml. in FS West Thumb In **The Cralg Pass road, between Old Faithful Grant Village and West Thumb, opens for the season in A FS on May 22. However, travel will be restricted; Craig Pass will be closed 9:00 pm 9:00 am, Sunday -Thursday, Inclusive. A 22 ml. Hikers: Access to trailheads is affected. See page 6. Blcyclists: Bicycles are not permitted on the Craig Pass road, North Craig Pass closes for the season on Sept. 11. South Entrance Flagg Ranch 307-543-2467 To Jackson Visitor Center or 11 Pm Food Service Hospital or Clinic Ranger Station in General Store I Gasoline A Campground i Marina FS Full Services* Campground Hard- & sided vehicles only *Full services indicates lodging, food service, general store, gasoline, rest rooms and telephone. A listing of park facilities and services, with opening and closing dates for the 1989 season, is on page 11. A more complete park map can be obtained at any entrance station, visitor center or service station. Photo Copy Preservation June 6, 1989 MEMORANDUM FOR ED McNALLY FROM: BOB SIMON SUBJECT: HISTORY OF THE JACKSON AREA John D. Rockefeller visit Jackson Lake for the first time in 1924. He was disturbed by the growing tacky commercialism of the area. In 1927, Horace Albright, the Yellowstone superintendent, convinced Rockefeller to buy up land in the Jackson hole area to preserve it as parkland. Rockefeller formed the Snake River Land Co. and secretly bought over 30,000 acres for more than $1.4 million. This land, and other land, was eventually turned into the present Grand Tetons National Park. President Chester Arthur was the first President to travel through the Tetons and Yellowstone, in 1883. By this time, word had travelled East about the beauty of the area, so Arthur took a vacation out there to see the sights and meet some Indians. After debarking the train, the Presidential party, including half the cabinet, traveled by pack train, and slept in tents, along the Snake River, through Jackson Hole and up to Yellowstone. They were accompanied by two troops of cavalry. Newspaper reporters were banned from the trip. Gen. Sheridan told two reporters from Chicago that if they followed, they would be arrested and jailed. President Arthur occasionally issued press releases on their activities on the trip. The path Arthur followed was known as the "Bottle trail" named for the empty bottles of booze that trailed the Presidential party. June 6, 1989 MEMORANDUM FOR ED McNALLY FROM: BOB SIMON SUBJECT: TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL The Teton Science School is a non-profit private school formed in 1967. Its budget is covered 70% by tuition and 30% by donations. The School is on Park Service land, leased to the school until 2003. The School's mission is to educate interested citizens and students about the natural history and ecology of the Teton/Yellowstone area and wildlife. Students range from 5th grade to senior citizens. Local schools, college students, and high school students from as far as New England take advantage of the varied courses offered. Senior citizens make up an increasing number of the students. Scouting groups also take courses. The school operates 50 weeks of the year. Classes last from 1 day to six weeks. The typical course is 3-5 days. Lectures, field trips, and raft trips are some of the teaching methods. Sometimes the School will conduct research for the Park Service, but the main purpose of the research is as a teaching method. Visible at the speech site: Grand Teton peaks in the background, grasses and pale green sagebrush in the foreground. Wildflowers likely to be present: purple larkspur, blue lupine, yellow arrow-leafed balsam root. Hawks and bald eagles are present overhead. Elk, muledeer, and moose can be seen sometimes near the school. At the school is the Murie museum: a collection of 2,500 specimens of stuffed birds and animals. Olaf and Mardy Murie collected these specimens over a long lifetime of pioneering work in surveying the Jackson area for the government in the early part of this century. Mardy, 86, still lives in the area. Olaf, one of the guiding forces in the founding of the Wilderness Society, is now deceased. June 6, 1989 MEMORANDUM FOR ED MCNALLY FROM: BOB SIMON SUBJECT: THE PRESIDENT AND GEORGE P. AT JACKSON LAKE The President, Mrs. Bush and George P. spent three nights at Jackson Lake on June 5-8, 1987. Jeb Bush did not go. George P. didn't catch any fish while with the President, but he did catch three when he went fishing with Mrs. Bush. The President caught two or three fish. They let all the fish go. The President let George P. drive the power boat. Later, they went out together in a row boat. (McNally/Simon) June 8, 1989, 11:00 a.m. Draft Two (TETONS) PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: ENVIRONMENTAL ADDRESS GRAND TETONS NATIONAL PARK TUESDAY, JUNE 13, 1989 Thank you, , for that warm introduction. And thank you also for one of the best birthday presents anybody in the state of Wyoming ever got -- an evening with my grandson, fishing on Jackson Lake. Maybe you know the classic line from the Wind in the Willows: "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." [[PAUSE]] And it's a good thing. Because we sure didn't catch any trout. And it's always good to see my other fishing buddy, Al Simpson, and my friend Malcolm Wallop. But I was a little surprised to see them here in the Tetons to look at wildlife. You'd think they'd see enough of that in Congress. It's well known here that Wyoming's first tourist was a trapper named John Colter, a veteran of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. In 1808 Colter was captured by the locals and -- stripped naked and hotly pursued -- given a chance to run for his life. Seven days later he arrived at a Spanish fort -- with sore feet and a sunburned back. [[PAUSE]] Today, George P. and I are awful glad Wyoming's attitude towards visitors is -- what's the phrase? -- kinder, gentler. We meet in the heart of an environmental success story. Part of a tradition that began when Abraham Lincoln granted 2 Yosemite Valley to California, to set aside as a preserve, and continued through Teddy Roosevelt and others who found inspiration in these majestic American peaks. Creating national parks was an American idea -- an idea imitated around the world. And it was one of our best. Since these lands were set aside, five generations of Americans have enjoyed Yellowstone and the Tetons -- the largest intact natural area in the temperate zones of the Earth. And yesterday I stood in the East Room at the White House to announce a proposal designed to ensure we do our part to improve and preserve our natural heritage from coast to coast -- and beyond. For another five generations -- and beyond. And today, with my back to the Pacific and the jewels of the American Rockies, I look east across this fertile and productive land and call on the American people -- and on Congress -- to join me in this new initiative to make a better world. Last summer, I called 1988 "the year the Earth spoke back. " Time dubbed spaceship Earth "the Planet of the Year. " And although, ultimately, medical waste and that wandering barge may not present as grave a danger as the ozone holes that we cannot see, touch or smell, they helped provide the jolt we needed. I've said it before, when talking about issues such as drug abuse, crime and national security: The most fundamental obligation of government is to protect the people -- the people's health, the people's safety, and, ultimately, our family values and traditions. 3 Clean air and a healthy environment is essential for the safety of all our people, and the protection of our traditions. Nowhere are these traditions more real -- more alive -- than here in the western reaches of Wyoming. It is a land of legend, of campfire tales of brave Sioux warriors, of Butch Cassidy and the Union Pacific Railroad, of range wars between cattlemen and sheep ranchers. Just over that ridge to the east lies the headwaters of the Wind River, one of the settings in the epic Western, Lonesome Dove. The book begins with the famous passage from T.K. Whipple: "All America lies at the end of the wilderness road, and our past is not a dead past, but still lives in us. Our forefathers had civilization inside themselves, the wild outside. We live in the civilization they created, but within us the wilderness still lingers. What they dreamed -- we live. And what they lived -- we dream. " Frontier legends have filled America's movie screens -- and America's imagination -- for most of this century. But the frontier is not the end of the road. It is our inspiration. The frontiers we face in the final decade leading to the year 2000 are different from those our forefathers faced in the mountains and meadows of the American Rockies. What we face are the frontiers of the mind -- scientific, geographic, cultural -- that remain to be crossed. Let's cross them. 4 Some say we are running out of time. Running out of resources. Running out of everything. The only thing we are running out of is imagination -- and the will to bring what we can imagine to life. Yes, there is a new breeze blowing. And borne upon that wind is a new breed of environmentalism. Our mission is not just to defend what's left -- but to take the offense, to improve our environment across the board. And we're off and running. With a Clean Air proposal that promises recovery, renewal, and restoration. And it cannot be an American effort alone. As I said in Europe last month, environmental destruction knows no borders. And as the mistrust of the cold war begins to give way to a new recognition of our common interests, international environmental challenges offer model opportunities for cooperation. Last fall, two whales were saved off American shores by a Soviet icebreaker, a Japanese-built tractor -- and a group of determined American Eskimos with saws and boathooks. Yes, there is a new breeze blowing. And as we speak it is carrying a 156 foot schooner from the Statue of Liberty to Leningrad, an East- West voyage for the environment. And a week ago the airwaves were filled with a five hour concert telecast -- broadcast around the world from New York, London and Brazil -- on environmental challenges and our common future. Many such international events are symbolic. But here at home, the substance awaits. It's in my new proposals to Congress 5 urbansmoy -- proposals for cleaner air, for an end to acid rain, ozone toxic depletion and other harmful emissions. Congress has been deadlocked on Clean Air for a long time. When my proposals pass, it will mark the first improvements in the Act in 12 years. Other attempts have failed. Competing interests have gridlocked. I understand the traffic jam. Before deciding on these proposals, I met with representatives of business, energy, mining and consumer groups. With people like you here today, who share my passion for the outdoors. And just last Thursday I sat down with the leaders of every major environmental group in America. I've listened to these competing voices -- to their well- intentioned ideas -- and the sometimes strident honking of their gridlocked horns. Now, none of the special interest groups are going to get everything they wanted. But today, there's some important common ground. Because there's one thing everyone agrees on: We need action. And we need it now. It is the right -- the right -- of every American to breath clean air. And you damned well shouldn't have to drive two thousand miles to do it. Environmental gridlock must end. Now, this isn't the first time Congress has had to struggle with questions about the kind of America we are going to bequeath to our children. And it's not even the first time the debate was carried right on into the Tetons. 6 A little over a hundred years ago, a battle over the future of the parks was building in Congress. Some wanted to exploit the land. And as the debate raged in the summer of 1883, President Chester Arthur boarded a train headed west out of Washington. By the time he reached Chicago, the press was warned that any reporters who followed would be dropped off the next railroad bridge. [[PAUSE]] No, Marlin. That wouldn't work on Air Force One. On August 5th, 1883, the presidential train stopped in Wyoming at the banks of the North Platte River, and Arthur embarked by mule wagon for a small fort in the Wind River valley. There the roads ended. And there began a three week, 350 mile odyssey by horseback, as the President traversed the Tetons and Yellowstone. And for anybody inconvenienced by my Secret Service motorcade, I apologize. But you ought to be glad I didn't bring along the 75 calvary soldiers that followed Arthur through Jackson Hole. President Arthur emerged from the Tetons having retained his reputation as a skilled fisherman. And -- unlike me -- he had 105 pounds of trout to prove it. He called the journey "better than anything [he] ever tried before," and returned to Washington to tell the glory of the Tetons. You know how the story ended. You are looking at it -- a scene so unspoiled it is little different from the view John Colter first saw in 1808. 7 And yet, today the Tetons are again threatened by development. And this time the threat comes not from steam engines and logging saws, but from the very West Wind that shaped those peaks, bearing the often invisible acids that gust in from the sun-baked smog of the coast. It's ironic that, as I've visited with people in these mountains, again and again people say how nice it is to get away from urban air pollution. Well, the bad news is: It's starting to follow you here. But the good news is: We're not going to put up with it any longer. Not here. And not at home where you live most of your lives. The clean air initiatives we launched yesterday at the White House mark a new chapter in the tradition of protecting our people and their parks. And with the help of Congress, we will conquer the challenges of acid, ozone and emissions. Wherever the next generation may find your children, our goal is nothing less than an America where all the air breathes as clean as morning in the Rockies. Let's cross those frontiers. June marks the beginning of summer. A family time. A time of remembrance and tradition. An estimated 300 million visitors will come to America's national parks this year -- and yes, I know it sometimes seems like most of them are camped out at your campsite. And with each new day, American families clamber across the craggy trails above us, around Jenny Lake and Paintbrush Canyon, and the aptly-named Rock of Ages. Hands young and old press against the hard basement rock -- exposed by the 8 elements and nearly as ancient as the Earth itself -- touching the past, testing their future. People return from these spaces rejuvenated, confident, somehow younger. Our stewardship of the Earth is brief. We owe it to those who follow to keep that in perspective, to be responsible passengers along the way. There is a saying in the Himalaya: "To a flea, alive for 80 days, a man is immortal. And to a man, alive for 80 years, a mountain is immortal. Both are wrong." We stand in the shadow of the Tetons -- still an unspoiled frontier thanks to the vision of leaders no longer alive. But it is not the last frontier. After the sun went down last night, we got a glimpse of the frontier beyond, George P. and I. It was up there beyond the peaks -- past the clear mountain air that we want to preserve for all Americans -- up there in the stars. And as we closed our eyes to rest, we saw again the one frontier beyond the stars -- the frontier within ourselves. In the frontiers ahead, there are no boundaries. We must pioneer new technology, new solutions. We were reminded recently of the potential -- still struggling to get beyond theory -- of fusion power and superconductivity at room temperature. Look upon these American peaks -- and at the American people around you -- and remember. We have hardly scratched the surface of what God put on Earth -- and what God put in man. # # # June 6, 1989 MEMORANDUM FOR ED McNALLY FROM: BOB SIMON SUBJECT: THE PRESIDENT AND GEORGE P. AT JACKSON LAKE The President, Mrs. Bush and George P. spent three nights at Jackson Lake on June 5-8, 1987. Jeb Bush did not go. George P. didn't catch any fish while with the President, but he did catch three when he went fishing with Mrs. Bush. The President caught two or three fish. They let all the fish go. The President let George P. drive the power boat. Later, they went out together in a row boat. Yellowstone fires 1988 A Special Supplement to Today NPS photo by Jim Peaco NPS photo by lim Peaco Photos clockwise from top: Crown fire in a lodgepole pine stand. A mosaic of burned and unburned forest on the slopes of Bunsen Peak. Some lodgepole pine cones require fire to release seeds. Fireweed is one of the first plants to appear after a fire. A bull elk grazes in a newly burned meadow. NPS photo by Jim Peaco NPS photo by Don Despain Welcome To A Changing Yellowstone In 1988, Yellowstone and its neighbors knew that if the smoke cleared it meant Yellowstone Today has been produced to A number of individuals, organiza- experienced a summer like no other in that the winds had returned and the fires introduce you to what happened here, tions, corporations and school groups local memory. The Yellowstone fires are were again on the move. It has been a what it means to the park's natural have expressed interest in helping already being described as the greatest time of human drama, intense media communities, and what it means to you. Yellowstone National Park recover ecological event in the history of the attention, and most of all, awe-inspiring from the fires. In response, the Park national parks, and they also were the natural changes in the Yellowstone So welcome to Yellowstone, a park with a Rehabilitation and Recovery Program cause of the greatest fire fighting effort in landscape. new face. The features that have has been organized to coordinate all of history. attracted tens of millions of visitors in the donations and provide information Yellowstone is still the magnificent place past are still here: the geysers, wildlife, about recovery and rehabilitation Those of us who live in this part of the it always has been; fires are a part of the trout streams, beautiful vistas and projects. Rockies, and the many others who visited life processes here, and the park will peaceful moments are as available as the park last summer, received a lesson heal and regenerate its natural scars as it ever. But to them has been added a new To find out more, ask at any visitor in the power of nature that we will never has countless times before. I'm excited attraction, a memorable lesson in center or write/call the Superintendent, forget. We saw spectacular and some- about that process, and equally excited to wilderness processes that in their own P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National times frightening fire behavior, and welcome you. We have the rare opportu- way are as beautiful as an elk or a Park, WY 82190, (307) 344-7381, together we rode an emotional roller nity to witness wilderness regeneration mountain lake. ext. 2363; or write/call the Student coaster while the fires grew and spread, on a scale rarely seen anywhere on Conservation Association, P.O. Box sending convection clouds to the earth. Nature is not always a gentle Enjoy your park. It has never offered 550, Charlestown, NH 03603, stratosphere. We knew the oppressive hostess, but it never fails to be an more than it does now. (603) 826-5206. effects of the dense smoke, but also inspiring teacher. This supplement to Robert Barbee, Superintendent Yellowstone Fires Page 2 1111111111 WILL 111/1111 Illustration by Doug Griswold, San Jose Mercury News Naturally caused fires have occurred in vegetative landscape of Yellowstone. After the park was established in 1872, In the early days, fire suppression was the Yellowstone area as long as there During several thousand years of park managers gradually improved their most effective on the park's northern has been vegetation to burn - at least intermittent occupation of the Yellow- ability to monitor and control fires. grasslands; fires were not allowed to burn since vegetation appeared following the stone area, native Americans may also Virtually no effective fire fighting was freely on the grasslands and groves of retreat of glaciers about 12,000 years have influenced the vegetation in many done until 1886, when the U.S. Cavalry the northern range for nearly a century. ago. Fire, climate, erosion, and a vast ways, such as setting fires (accidental or was placed in charge of protecting the Over the rest of the park, which is largely assortment of life forms ranging from intentional), moving seeds (in plant foods park. In fact, the soldiers marked the covered by forest, reliable and consistent microbes to insects to mammals have all or horse's feed, for example), or influenc- debut of federal involvement in fighting fire suppression had to wait until modern played roles in the creation of the ing the numbers or movements of wildfires in the United States. airborne firefighting techniques became various plant-eating animals. available, in the last thirty or forty years. Fire Management Plan Ecologists have known for many years Yellowstone's fire management plan has deemed necessary) in as safe, cost- a small area. In most years Yellowstone that wildfire is essential to the evolution of four goals: effective, and environmentally sensitive is too wet to allow fires to reach any a natural setting. In 1972, Yellowstone ways as possible. significant size. The largest natural fire in initiated a program to allow some natural 1. To permit as many lightning-caused the park's written history prior to 1988 fires to run their courses. The plan was fires as possible to burn under natural 4. To resort to prescribed burning when was a burn at Heart Lake in 1931. It was developed and implemented after consul- conditions. and where necessary and practical to fought, but burned about 18,000 acres. tation with related agencies, and with the reduce hazardous fuels, primarily dead endorsement of the conservation and 2. To prevent wildfires from destroying and downed trees. Fire was permitted to reassert its role in scientific communities. Over the years, human life, property, historic and cultural creating and maintaining the natural the plan has been revised and updated sites, special natural features, or threat- During the sixteen years since this plan variety of habitats and vegetation types as the lessons of each fire season were ened and endangered species. has been in effect, tens of thousands of typical of a healthy wilderness. translated into management practice. All lightning strikes have simply fizzled out park fires are managed according to 3. To suppress all man-caused fires (and with no acreage burned. Of those that During 1989, the Fire Management Plan criteria in the fire management plan. any natural fires whose suppression is have occurred, 235 produced fires that is suspended pending complete review. were allowed to burn. Most burned only All fires will be fought this year. 1988 Drought Worst On Record The fall of 1987 was unusually dry in the Yellowstone experienced an untypical April rainfall was 155 percent of normal, But those that survived into the extremely Yellowstone area. With that in mind, park weather pattern in recent years. Though and May rainfall was 181 percent of dry weeks of late June and July met fire specialists began monitoring more there was below-average precipitation in normal, but practically no rain fell in June, dramatically changed conditions. By late than a dozen separate fire danger indices winter, summers were abnormally wet, July, or August, an event previously July, moisture content of grasses and in early April, 1988. By July 1, each was reaching 200 to 300 percent of normal unrecorded in the park's 112-year written small branches in the park reached levels being monitored at 26 locations around rainfall in July. record of weather conditions. In early as low as two or three percent, and the park as part of the routine administra- summer, about 20 lightning-caused fires moisture in downed trees was measured tion of the park's fire management plan. Anticipating the continuation of this had been allowed to burn. According to at seven percent. At 8 to 12 percent Through this monitoring system, coupled pattern, park managers and fire behavior the fire plan, fires were evaluated on a moisture, lightning will start lots of fires, with regular consultation with regional fire specialists saw reason to expect that case-by-case basis, each on its own many of which will burn freely. A series authorities and close attention to weather natural fires could be allowed to burn. situation and merits, before being allowed of unusually high winds, associated with conditions, fire risk seemed well within Six consecutive years of significantly to burn. Eleven of these burned them- dry fronts, fanned flames that even in the established parameters based on experi- above-average July rainfall suggested selves out, behaving as such fires did in dry conditions would not normally have ence. But it was weather that eventually that July of 1988 would be similarly wet. previous years. moved with great speed. proved most difficult to anticipate. Yellowstone Fires Page 3 Commonly Asked Questions How many people fought fires in the Greater Yellowstone Area and how What effect will the fires have on grizzly bears? many were injured? Many research biologists now believe the effects of the fires will enhance areas used by A total of more than 25,000 fire fighters worked in the Greater Yellowstone Area in grizzly bears by increasing the diversity of both plant and animal food sources available 1988. There were no fireline fatalities or critical injuries prior to October. In early to the bear. Much needs to be learned, however, and no clear answers may be readily October, there was one fatality on the Clover Mist Fire on the Shoshone N.F. and one available for several years, although sightings were made of grizzlies eating carcasses critical injury resulting from falling snags. This is a remarkable record considering that last fall and this spring. suppression continued more than three months with a peak of some 9,500 people and 117 aircraft, with strong, erratic winds, major fire runs and numerous falling trees. A In an effort to gain more information of future movements in burned areas, the Inter- pilot was killed in a light plane crash after transporting fire personnel on September 12. agency Grizzly Bear Study Team will attempt to increase the number of radio-collared On September 20, a Bell 206 helicopter crashed while filling a bucket on the Clover-Mist bears in the area of the Clover-Mist Fire. At present, 36 bears are radio-collared in the Fire, but the pilot was not seriously injured. Greater Yellowstone Area, but not all are in areas in or near the burns. There were 19 sightings of female grizzlies with 40 cubs of the year in the Greater What was the total amount spent on fire suppression for the 1988 Greater Yellowstone Area in 1988, which is considered excellent cub production for this popula- Yellowstone Fires? tion. Nearly 120 million dollars has been spent on fire suppression efforts. Concern has been expressed about fire effects on whitebark pine, a fall food source for grizzlies. Less than 20 percent of the whitebark pine stands in and near the fire areas were affected. Impacts will not be known for several years. What were the major fire suppression impacts? What was the extent of soll sterilization from the fires? About 665 miles of hand lines and 137 miles of bulldozer lines were constructed; 32 miles of bulldozer line was in Yellowstone National Park. About 1.4 million gallons of Extensive study, mapping of burn intensity, and soil sampling at hundreds of locations fire retardant were dropped, 10 million gallons of water were dropped by helicopters have shown that most fires heated soil only to light or moderate intensity; less than one- alone, and innummerable water pumping stations were established. There were also tenth of one percent of the soil received heat intense enough to penetrate more than 51 spike camps, 150 helispots and a major camp established for each fire. Portions of two inches deep and kill seeds, roots, bulbs, rhizomes, and other plant matter neces- National Forests were closed to hunting for safety reasons. Many of these impacts sary to regeneration. However, because of steep topography and canyon "chimneys" required restoration, which began last fall. the percentage of high intensity burn on the Shoshone National Forest has been estimated to be as high as 10-15 percent. How many acres burned in Yellowstone National Park? What buildings were burned or damaged? Structures destroyed in Yellowstone National Park included 18 cabins used by employ- Burn Type Percentage of Total Percent of Burn Area (Acres) ees and guests, a backcountry patrol cabin, storage structures and other miscellaneous Burned Area YNP Area structures. The Forest Service structures destroyed were the Bull Moose Cabin in the Canopy 562,350 56.9 25.3 Hellroaring drainage of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and a Shoshone National Surface 372,350 37.7 16.8 Forest toilet. One trailhead was damaged. Private structures destroyed and damaged Meadow 25,200 2.5 1.1 in the Crandall area included 17 mobile homes, 4 dwellings, a general store, and 12 Sage/Grassland 29,025 2.9 1.3 garages and outbuildings. The estimated value of "facilities" damaged or destroyed is Unburned 1,232,875 55.5 $3,280,000. Total in Where will / see the effects of the 1988 fires as / drive through the park burned area 988,975 and how can / learn more about them? Figures are preliminary; final Total acres in park 221 800 The below locations of during the 1988 Percent of total YNP places. acres affected 44.5% Asterisks (*) indicate locations of roadside exhibits explaining particular aspects of the fires; exhibits will be in place by the end of June. Where will trees be planted to reforest burned areas? Within the next three or four years, about 7500 acres of tree planting will occur on the North Entrance Gallatin, Shoshone, and Targhee National Forests. These are preliminary estimates Northeast and may be revised upwards. Mammoth Entrance Hot Springs Tower- No major reforestation efforts are planned for Yellowstone National Park or for wilder- Roosevelt ness in Greater Yellowstone Area National Forests. In keeping with the legislative man- dates of these areas, natural reforestation will be permitted to occur. Research indi- cates that trees in burned areas released abundant seeds following the fires varying with the severity of the burns. Yellowstone Park plant ecologist Don Despain has already documented seed densities in burned forests ranging from 50,000 to 1,000,000 seeds per acre, which equals one to 20 seeds per square foot. Within five years there may be 1,000 seedlings per acre, depending upon how much competition they face from grasses, wildflowers and shrubs. Allowing the park to reforest itself is a concept West Entrance Norris Canyon widely supported in the scientific community Madison How many animals died in the Greater Yellowstone Area as a result of the Fishing fires? Bridge The following chart summarizes where and how many animals are known to have died. East Area Elk Deer Moose Black Bear Bison Entrance National Forest Old Faithful Yellowstone Lake lands in Montana 5 2 1 2 0 West Thumb Grant National Forest Village lands in Wyoming 83 30 9 4 0 Yellowstone Nat'l Park 257 4 2 0 9 Totals 345 36 12 6 9 South Entrance No dead grizzly bears, antelope or bighorn sheep were found, but it is now suspected that 2 grizzly bears may have died as a result of the fires. There were also numerous Grant Village Visitor Center features a special new exhibit, "Yellowstone and Fire," small mammals and birds lost as well as an unknown number of trout. A total of 345 (open June 17) with displays interpreting the role of fire in Yellowstone's landscape as dead elk were discovered in the Greater Yellowstone Area by post-fire surveys. The well as peoples' attitudes about fire. summering elk population in the Greater Yellowstone Area is approximately 93,000. Visitor centers feature books and a video tape about the fires. Rangers will present Large animals were relatively unaffected during the fires. This conclusion is based on programs and conduct walks or hikes into areas that burned last year. To find out what the movements of over 150 collared large mammals and observations from numerous may be offered during your visit, ask at any visitor center or purchase Discover aerial surveys. Data indicated that there was short-term displacement from normal Yellowstone, a biweekly magazine listing all ranger-led activities offered in Yellowstone ranges as fire moved through an area. during the summer months. Discover Yellowstone is sold at visitor centers, stores and gift shops throughout the park. Yellowstone Fires Page 4 What Burned? No topic has caused more confusion in country surrounding Yellowstone Park threatened Old Faithful, Madison, Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness of the the media and in the public mind than the was hit heavily. A number of major fires, Canyon, Norris, West Yellowstone, Custer National Forest northeast of actual extent of the fires. Confusion has most notably the North Fork Fire, the Mammoth Hot Springs, and Tower- Yellowstone Park, and eventually resulted from all fires in the Greater Hellroaring Fire, the Storm Creek Fire, Roosevelt, was a human-caused fire that threatened the Cooke City-Silver Gate Yellowstone Area, which includes more the Huck Fire, and the Mink Fire, started originated in the Targhee National Forest area, where it received exstensive than ten million acres of public land, outside the park and moved in. These and was the subject of immediate national television coverage and was being called "Yellowstone Park fires;" fires accounted for more than half of the suppression efforts. The Storm Creek usually reported as a result of Yellow- from all fires in the Yellowstone area total burn in the Greater Yellowstone Fire started as a lightning strike in the stone Park's natural fire program. being ascribed to the park's natural burn area, and include most of the ones that program; and from frequent and unfortu- have received intensive media attention. Additional confusion resulted from nate oversimplification and exaggeration The North Fork Fire, which continued media and public belief that of burn acreages. managers in the Yellowstone area let park fires continue burning unchecked, Throughout the West, 1988 was an out of devotion to the natural fire plan, extremely difficult fire year, and the Gallatin National Forest long after such fires were in fact being Custer fought. Public confusion was probably Storm Creek National heightened by misunderstandings over Fire Forest just what the firefighting strategies were; if crews were observed letting a fire burn Cooke City an area, it may have seemed to the Fan Fire Mammoth Hellroaring Fire casual observer that the burn was merely Gallatin National Forest Hot Springs being monitored. In fact, in many Tower Roosevelt instances fire bosses recognized the hopelessness of stopping fires in certain situations, and concentrated their efforts on the protection of buildings and developed areas. The most unfortunate public and North Fork media miscon- Fire ception about the Yellowstone Norris Canyon Clover-Mist firefighting effort may have Fire been that human beings can always control fire if they really want to; the raw, unbridled power of these fires cannot be Madison overemphasized. Fishing Perhaps the worst source of confusion, Bridge however, has resulted from oversimplifi- National Forest cation of burn acreages. The daily reports issued cooperatively by the U.S. Forest Service and the National Park Service on fire status gave total acreages within the perimeters of each fire, pointing Old Faithful Yellowstone out that, "only about half of the vegetation Lake West has burned within many fire perimeters." Forest Targl Village statement about unburned vegetation. The park was regularly portrayed as a Snake River Fire blackened moonscape. (several fires burned together) Aerial mapping indictes that about 1.4 million acres in the Greater Yellowstone Area received some type of burning. Within Yellowstone Park, mapping indicates that a maximum of 988,925 acres experienced some kind of burning. Mink Creek Fire Of that, 562,350 acres was "canopy Note: Not all vegetation burn," meaning that the forest was within burn perimeters is Bridger Teton National Forest blackened. Another 372,350 acres was burned. More detailed maps Huck Fire "surface burn," meaning that only the will be available later. forest understory burned and most trees will not die. Burned meadow and sage- grasslands totalled 54,225 acres, only 2.4% of the park. Natural and Human-caused Fires, Greater Yellowstone Area, 1988 Natural fires originating in Yellowstone Natural fires originating on adjacent Human-caused fires originating outside National Park U.S. Forest Service lands the park What the Fires Mean to Yellowstone's Friends Ultimately, the greatest impacts of the well as over the natural fire management how far we are willing to let nature go in Our goal in the national parks is the same 1988 Yellowstone fire season will not be plan itself. giving it to us. as it has always been: to find some ecological. Yellowstone itself is already balance - some "reasonable illusion," as well on its way to responding to the The American public, management Fire is one of the last great natural "public ecologist A. Starker Leopold so aptly put massive stimuli provided by the fires: agencies, and many special interest enemies." The same ecological commu- it in 1963 - between the directions the natural revegetation is underway, wildlife groups now face a singular challenge: nity that decades ago taught us that natural setting might take on its own and is adapting, and the wilderness setting to come to grips with a newfound under- predators are not bad in any intrinsic our needs of it. We seek a course of survives. standing of the power of the natural sense, and that natural diversity is as action that will permit us to appreciate settings we are attempting to preserve useful to human culture as a closely fire's place and power without so wholly Far greater concern is now being and celebrate in the national parks. managed harvest, has more recently risking the financial and emotional expressed in many circles over the future Beyond the operational questions of just recognized that wildfire also has it values disasters of the 1988 fire season. But of management of Yellowstone and other how best to fight fires in wilderness, and - scientific, esthetic, and even commer- even at that we would be well advised to parks. The course of the summer's fire beyond the policy questions of how an cial. Fire is and has always been an retain enough humility to know that management raised many questions, and agency can be true to its mandate and essential part of the setting in our parks nature will not always be controlled some management actions and policies yet anticipate an extraordinary event of and natural areas; we cannot ignore its despite our best, most carefully planned will be challenged. There are debates this sort, are deeper questions of just role, and to return to the total exclusion of management. underway about firefighting logistics, as what we want from our parks, and just it from those areas would be a folly for which our descendants would pay dearly. 4/89