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[John] McKernan for Governor 10/2/90 [OA 6896] [2]
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[John] McKernan for Governor 10/2/90 [OA 6896] [2]
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Speech Backup Chronological Files
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Originally Processed With FOIA(s):
FOIA Number:
S
S
FOIA
MARKER
This is not a textual record. This is used as an
administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential
Library Staff.
Record Group/Collection:
George H.W. Bush Presidential Records
Collection/Office of Origin:
Speechwriting, White House Office of
Series:
Speech File Backup Files
Subseries:
Chron File, 1989-1993
OA/ID Number:
13732
Folder ID Number:
13732-002
Folder Title:
[John] McKernan for Governor 10/2/90 [OA 6896] [2]
Stack:
Row:
Section:
Shelf:
Position:
G
26
20
7
6
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
CONVERSATION WITH SANDY TUTTLE, CAMPAIGN
1) POTUS: "I KNOW A LOT OF YOU FOLKS ARE FROM MAINE'S FIRST DISTRICT,
AND WE'RE ALL HOPING YOU'RE GOING OUT THERE TO GET OUT THE VOTE FOR
JOCK. IN THE SECOND DISTRICT, HOWEVER, WE BELIEVE JOCK WILL SLIDE
TO VICTORY BY RIDING OLYMPIA'S SKIRTTAILS."
2) THE BIGGEST ISSUE: THE ECONOMY, AND THE FACT THAT MAINE IS ONE OF
THE FEW NEW ENGLAND STATES THAT HAS BEEN ABLE TO RIDE OUT THE
REGION'S ECONOMIC SLOWDOWN, THANKS, IN LARGE PART, TO THE GOVERNOR'
PRUDENT FISCAL POLICIES.
3) RALLY EFFECT: THE CAMPAIGN PEOPLE ARE BILLING THIS EVENT ALMOST AS A
RALLY. SHE SUGGESTS THAT AT THE END OF THE SPEECH, THE PRES SAYS
EMPHATICALLY: "WE NEED TO ELECT JOCK FOR FOUR MORE YEARS!"
SHE
SAYS THAT AT THE SPEECH'S CLOSE, THIS WILL IN TURN BE PICKED UP IN
A CHANT: "FOUR MORE YEARS! FOUR MORE YEARS! FOUR MORE YEARS!" THIS
WILL NOT REQUIRE PARTICIPATION BY POTUS, BUT WILL BE A HEARTY
RESPONSE TO HIS REMARKS.
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
1
QUOTES
1) STATE MOTTO: "DIRIGO" ("I DIRECT")
2) NICKNAME: "THE PINE TREE STATE"
3) "AS MAINE GOES, so GOES THE NATION."
--American Political Maxim, circa 1888
4) "IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO BE EXPOSED FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME TO MAINE REALISM
AND HORSE SENSE WITHOUT EFFECT, AND MOST OF THE SUMMER PEOPLE FIND THAT
THEY GO HOME WITH A REVISED SET OF VALUES."
--Louise Dickenson Rich, State O' Maine
5) "MAINE IS NOT JUST THE LAND. IT IS ALSO THE SEA. THERE IS AN ETERNAL
STRUGGLE BETWEEN THE TWO. NEITHER QUITE WINS, NEITHER QUITE LOSES."
--Pearl S. Buck, America, 1971
6) "LIKE ITS LANGUAGE, COASTAL MAINE IS FOR ME THE PUREST KIND OF METAPHOR:
A WAY OF LIVING WITH WEATHER, A WAY OF TALKING ABOUT GOOD MEN, A WAY
OF SURIVING HARD COUNTRY."
--Philip Booth, Maine Lines, 1970
7) "HERE'S TO THE STATE OF MAINE, THE LAND OF THE BLUEST SKIES, THE GREENES
EARTH, THE RICHEST AIR, THE STRONGEST, AND WHAT IS BETTER, THE STURDIES
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
N
QUOTES, (cont.')
MEN, THE FAIREST, AND WHAT IS BEST OF ALL, THE TRUEST WOMEN UNDER THE
SUN."
--Thomas B. Reed, Portland Speech, 8/1/0
8) "SURELY I NEVER MET SUCH ARDENT INDIVIDUALS (MAINE YANKEES). I WOULD
HATE TO TRY TO FORCE THEM TO DO ANYTHING THEY DIDN'T WANT TO DO."
--John Steinbeck, Travels with Chaley'e
9) "MAINE ENJOYS BEING MAINE. SOMETHING OF THE 18TH CENTURY GUSTO OF LIV-
ING CONTINUES HERE, AND THERE IS A POSITIVE ENJOYMENT OF ADVENTURE,
CHARACTER, AND CIRCUMSTANCE.' --Henry Beston, White Pine and Blue
Water, 1950
10) (**THIS MIGHT BE AN APT RESPONSE FOR THE PRES. TO GIVE TO THE WARM
I
WELCOME HE WILL RECEIVE FROM THE CROWD)
POTUS: "THANK YOU SO MUCH, THANKS FOR YOUR KIND WELCOME. AS ONE WRITER
ONCE REMARKED, 'MAINE MANNERS ARE AT ONCE A TOLERANCE AND A GRACE.
THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL, AND A WONDER TO BEHOLD.
--John Cole said it in In Maine, 1974
3
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
MAINE COLOR
1) "THE FIRST ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN MAINE OF WHICH THERE IS ANY RECORD WAS
ESTABLISHED IN 1607 AT THE MOUTH OF KENNEBEC RIVER. LED BY SIR GEORGE
POPHAM, THESE COLONISTS, MANY OF THEM PAROLEES FROM ENGLISH JAILS, BUIL
THE FIRST ENGLISH VESSEL CONSTUCTED IN AMERICA BUT DISBANDED AFTER THEI
FIRST WINTER, THE LIKES OF WHICH THEY HAD NEVER FELT IN ENGLAND."
--Smithsonian Guide to Historic America, p.162
2) "MASSACHUSETTS ASSUMED JUDICIAL CONTROL OVER MAINE IN 1652, AND IN 1677
GORGES'S GRANDSON SOLD THE PATENT TO MASSACHUSETTS. (MAINE WOULD REMAIN
PART OF MASSACHUSETTS UNTIL 1820).
-ibid
3) "DURING THE REVOLUTION, PATRIOTIC LOCAL CITIZENS OF YORK, MAINE STAGED 7
THEIR OWN VERSION OF THE BOSTON TEA PARTY, SEIZING A SHIPMENT OF TEA
FROM AN ENGLISH SLOOP RATHER THAN PAY TAXES ON IT."
--ibid, p. 171
4) "DURING THE CIVIL WAR, STRONGLY ABOLITIONIST PORTLAND SENT 5,000 TROOPS
AND A FLEET OF GUNBOATS TO THE UNION."
--ibid, p. 185
5) "BOYHOOD HOME OF AMERICAN POET HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW, THE WADSWORTH
Longfellow House was the 1st brick house built in Portland."
ibid ISS
4
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
MAINE COLOR (cent.)
6) "HARRIET BEECHER STOWE LIVED AT 63 FEDERAL STREET FROM 1850 TO ABOUT
1852. WHILE HER HUSBAND, CALVIN STOWE, TAUGHT NATURAL AND REVEALED
RELIGIONS AT BOWDOIN COLLEGE, SHE WROTE HER FAMOUS WORK, UNCLE TOM'S
CABIN."
--ibid., p. 204
7) "CHARTERED IN 1794 AND OPENED IN 1802, MAINE'S OLDEST COLLEGE IS NAMED
FOR JAMES BOWDOIN II, A MASSACHUSETTS GOVERNOR WHOSE SON GENEROUSLY
ENDOWED THE LIBERAL ARTS INSTITUTION. BOWDOIN COLLEGE HAS GRADUATED
A NUMBER OF THE COUNTRY'S FOREMOST CITIZENS, AMONG THEM FRANKLIN PIERCE
FOURTEENTH PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES; WILLIAM PITT FESSENDEN, SEC.
OF THE TREASURY UNDER LINCOLN; ADMIRAL ROBERT E. PEARY; NATHANIEL HAW-
THORNE; HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW; AND THE NOTED ABOLITIONIST AND MAINI
GOVERNOR JOHN ALBION ANDREWS." --ibid., p. 207
8) "THE MAINE COAST HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN AS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LAND-
SCAPES IN AMERICA. IN 1734 A MASSACHUSETTS VISITOR WROTE THAT 'ALL THAT
COAST APPEARS TO BE FULL OF COMODIOUS RIVERS, BAYS, HARBOURS, COVES, ANI
DELIGHTFUL ISLANDS.."
--ibid., p. 214
S
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
MAINE COLOR, (cont. ')
9) "MAINE IS LARGE--HALF THE SIXE OF ALL OF NEW ENGLAND--AND ABOUT 80% OF
IT IS COVERED WITH FORESTS OF WHITE PINE, BALSAM FIR, BASSWOOD, BIRCH,
OAK, MAPLE, HEMLOCK, BEECH, AND SPRUCE. MILE-HIGH MOUNT KATAHDIN, IN
THE CENTER OF MAINE, IS THE STATE'S TALLEST PEAK."
--ibid., p. 254
10) "WHILE CITIZENS OF PORTLAND MADE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO MOVE THE CAPITAL
BACK TO THEIR CITY, THEIR CAUSE FADED IN THE FACE OF CHARLES BULLFINC
IMPRESSIVE STRUCTURE IN AUGUSTA. THE ARCHITECT BASED THE CLASSICAL
DESIGN OF MAINE'S CAPITOL ON HIS EARLIER ONE FOR THE MASSACHUSETTS
STATE HOUSE; THE BUILDING MATERIAL, HOWEVER, WAS INDIGENOUS TO MAINE:
GRANITE FROM HOLLOWELL. CONSTRUCTION BEGAN IN 1829 AND LASTED UNTIL
JANUARY 1832."
--ibid., p. 259
11) "ACROSS FROM THE CAPITOL IS BLAINE HOUSE, THE FEDERAL STYLE RESIDENCE
OF MAINE'S GOVERNOR. AS GOVERNOR'S MANSIONS GO, THE CLAPBOARD, GREEN-
SHUTTERED HOUSE, SITTING BEHIND A PICKET FENCE, IS MODEST. SEA CAPT.
JAMES HULL BUILT IT FOR HIMSELF IN 1833; THE HOUSE TAKES ITS NAME FRO]
A LATER RESIDENT, JAMES G. BLAINE, A MAINE CONGRESSMAN WHO BECAME
SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE, A U.S. SENATOR, A PRESIDENTIAL CANDIDATE, AND
SEC OF STATE UNDER PRESIDENTS GARFIELD ANDHARRISON, ibid P 261
6,
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
MAINE COLOR, (cont.')
12). MAINE'S FIRST REPUBLICAN GOVERNOR: "HANNIBAL HAMLIN (WAS) A PROMINEN
MAINE POLITICIAN BEGORE HE BECAME ABRAHAM LINCOLN'S VICE PRESIDENT.
HAMLIN ENTERED POLITICS AS A JACKSONIAN DEMOCRAT. HE SERVED FIRST
IN THE STATE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES IN 1843, AND THEN TO THE SENA
HIS ABOLITIONIST VIEWS LED HIM TO RESIGN FROM THE DEMOCRATIC PARTY,
AND IN 1856 HE WAS ELECTED MAINE'S FIRST REPUBLICAN GOVERNOR."
--ibid., p. 273
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
ARTICLES
1) "AS A NATION, WE'RE BEING "OUT-SCHOOLED" BY THE COMPETITION--WHO ALSO
OUT-TRADE US IN WORLD MARKETS. COULD THE TWO THINGS BE RELATED? JOHN
McKERNAN BELIEVES THEY ARE. 'I FEAR OUR EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM MAY
RESEMBLE THE POLISH CAVALRY--WELL-ESTABLISHED, WELL-FUNDED AND PROB-
ABLY OUT OF DATE,' THE GOVERNOR SAID LAST WEEK, SPEAKING TO A GROUP
OF BUSINESS PEOPLE AND COMMUNITY LEADERS. HE WAS PUSHING A REMEDY TO
PART OF THE PROBLEM--A SCHOOL CALENDAR THAT HAS STUDENTS IN CLASS LES:
THAN HALF THE YEAR."
"'OUR WORLD TRADING PARTNERS--OUR COMPETITORS IF YOU WILL--AVERAGE FROM
200 TO 240 DAYS OF SCHOOL A YEAR, DEPENDING ON WHETHER YOU'RE TALKING
EUROPE OR ASIA.' McKERNAN POINTS OUT, MAINE STUDENTS, HE NOTED, NOW
ATTEND SCHOOL JUST 175 DAYS A YEAR. BUT WHEN HE PROPOSED A MODEST
INCREASE TO 180 DAYS, PHASED IN OVER FIVE YEARS, THE LEGISLATURE
STONEWALLED HIM."
--Kennebec Journal, 4/14/90
2) "REP. JOSEPH E. BRENNAN MADE IT CLEAR FRIDAY THAT AN APPEAL TO ORGANIZE
LABOR WOULD PLAY A MAJOR PRT IN HIS STRATEGY TO UNSEAT GOV. McKERNAN.
--B.D.N, 4/21/
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
ARTICLES, (cont. ')
3) "ULTIMATELY, THE FIRST TERM OF GOVERNOR JOHN McKERNAN WILL BE REMEM-
BERED MOST FOR ITS SETTING MAINE ON THE PATH OF MASSIVE RECYCLING OF
HOUSEHOLD WASTE, NOT FOR ITS DIFFICULTIES WITH TAX REVENUE SHORTFALI
OR OTHER CONDITIONS OVER WHICH A GOVERNOR HAS ONLY MARGINAL CONTROL.
IN THE CASE OF RECYCLING, GOVERNOR McKERNAN PROVIDED REAL LEADERSHIP
--Maine Times, 4/90
4) "HAD THE SKY FALLEN, OR WAS MAINE'S WELL-PUBLICIZED BUDGET 'CRISIS'
JUST A CASE OF REPORTERS, EGGED ON BY LEGISLATORS AND SPECIAL
INTEREST GROUPS, NOT BEING AB LE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN "A
BICYCLE ACCIDENT AND THE END OF THE WORLD?' GOV. JOHN R. McKERNAN
SUGGESTED THE BICYCLE ACCIDENT ANALOGY AS A REBUKE TO THE MEDIA
DURING A FEB. 7 ADDRESS TO THE PORLAND CHAMBER OF COMMERCE..
=
"WITH SOME CRITICAL HELP FROM DEMOCRATIC LEGISLATORS, McKERNAN BALANCEI
THE STATE'S BUDGET WITHOUT MASSIVE SPENDING CUTS, LARGE STATE LAYOFF
OR NEW ACROSS-THE-BOARD TAXES--AND WITHOUT ANY DAMAGE TO MAINE'S
TRADITIONALLY STERLING CREDIT RATING WITH WALL STREET BOND COMPANIES
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR McKERNAN
ARTICLES, (cont.')
"LAST YEAR, DEMOCRATS PRESSED McKERNAN TO SPEND DOWN OR REBATE TO THE
TAXPAYERS A $163 MILLION BUDGET SURPLUS DESPITE CLEAR INDICATIONS
THAT THE REGION'S ECONOMY HAD BEGUN TO SLOW
HAD HE DONE THAT, McKEI
NAN WOULD HAVE BEEN PAINTED INTO A CORNER LIKE DUKAKIS AND FORCED TO
RAISE TAXES AND MAKE UNPOPULAR CUTS IN STATE PROGRAMS
INSTEAD OF
SPENDING DOWN THE SURPLUS, McKERNAN SCALED BACK STATE SPENDING BY
$100 MILLION. THAT FISCAL PRUDENCE, HE CLAIMED, SAVED MAINE FROM A
MAJOR TAX HIKE DURING THIS YEAR."
"THE FACT THAT McKERNAN CAME OUT OF THE STATE'S LONG BUDGET DEBATE WITH-
OUT NEEDING NEW TAXES IS THE EXCEPTION, NOT THE RULE IN THE REGION
ACCORDING TO THE NATIONAL GOVERNOR'S ASSOCIATION, 22 GOVERNORS HAVE
PROPOSED TAX INCREASES THIS YEAR TOTALING $4.9 BILLION TO RESOLVE
BUDGET PROBLEMS PARALLELING THOSE IN MAINE. THAT COMES ON THE HEELS
THOSE OF MAINE. THAT COMES ON THE HEELS OF TAX INCREASES BY 27 STATES
DURING 1989, ACCORDING TO THE NGA.
MAINE AND CONNECTICUT, WHICH
RAISED TAXES BY $1 BILLION IN 1989 WERE THE ONLY STATES IN THE NORTH-
EAST THAT ARE ENTERING THE 1990's WITHOUT HUGE NEW TAX INCREASES ON
THE HORIZON, THE NGA'S SURVEY CONCLUDED."
--BDN?
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
ARTICLES, (cont.' ')
5) " (McKERNAN) WAS A STAR BASKETBALL PLAYER IN HIGH SCHOOL HE SERVED IN
THE MAINE ARMY NATIONAL GUARD, 1970-73
MCKERNAN HEADED PRESIDENT
FORD'S 1976 ELECTION CAMPAIGN IN MAINE
HE CONTENDED THAT HIS
ADMINISTRATION HAD DONE MORE TO PROTECT THE ENVIRONMENT, HELP WORKING
FAMILIES AND COMBAT ILLEGAL DRUGS THAN HIS PREDECESSOR AND WOULD-BE
SUCCESSOR. McKERNAN CITED THE CREATION OF THE BUREAU OF INTERGOVERN-
MENTAL DRUG ENFORCEMENT WHICH HE SAID HAD MADE THE DRUG TRADE 'BAD
BUSINESS IN THIS STATE.'
"MCKERNAN, WHO IS A LANKY 6 FOOT 3, EARNED LETTERS IN HIGH SCHOOL
BASKETBALL AND ONCE HARBORED DREAMS OF JOINING THE BOSTON CELTICS
McKERNAN MARRIED REP. OLYMPIA SNOWE, A MEMBER OF CONGRESS SINCE 1979.
MCKERNAN MARRIED SNOWE, BOTH LEADERS OF MAINE'S REPUBLICAN PARTY,
HOPED THEIR MARRIAGE WOULD BRING 'HAPPINESS AND FULFILLMENT TO OUR
PERSONAL LIVES.
--A.P. Political Service 1990
6) "PRESIDENT GEORGE BUSH WENT GOLFING FOR DOLLARS ON TUESDAY, PLAYING TO
RAISE FUNDS FOR THE RE-ELECTION CAMPAIGN OF MAINE'S REPUBLICAN GOV.
JOHN McKERNAN."
--Aug. 21, 1990 Reuters
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
ARTICLES, (cont. ')
7) "GOV. JOHN R. McKERNAN, WHOSE RE-ELECTION BID IS ALREADY PLAGUED BY A
$230 MILLION STATE BUDGET SHORTFALL, MUST ALSO COME TO TERMS WITH A
SWELLING TIDE OF LOCAL COMMUNITIES WHICH CLAIM HIS FISCAL POLICIES
ARE PLACING AN UNFAIR BURDEN ON LOCAL BUDGETS
THE TIDE OF LOCAL
OPPOSITION BEGAN IN FREEPORT, WHERE THE TOWN COUNCIL VOTED IN EARLY
MARCH TO TRY TO ORGANIZE COMMUNITIES STATEWIDE TO OPPOSE SOME OF
McKERNAN'S BUDGET-CUTTING PROPOSALS, ESPECIALLY ONE TO CUT STATE AIL
TO EDUCATION. "
--U.P.I. 3/25/90
8) "GOV. JOHN McKERNAN'S BID TO RESTORE ATLANTIC SALMON AND OTHER FISH TC
THE KENNEBEC RIVER BY CARVING A HOLE IN THE ANCIENT EDWARDS DAM HAS
TRIGGERED A FIERCE DEBATE--BOTH OVER HIS PLAN AND HIS MOTIVES
McKERNAN HAS PROPOSED CARVING A HUGE HOLE IN THE DAM TO OPEN KENNEBE
RIVER FROM THE ATLANTIC ALL THE WAY TO WATERVILLE--70 MILES AWAY--
FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE 1837
"
"HE SHOCKED LEGISLATORS JAN. 25 WHEN HE ANNOUNCED IN HIS ANNUAL STATE
OF THE STATE ADDRESS HE WAS WORKING ON PLANS TO DESTROY OR BREACH
THE DAM, WHICH NOW PRODUCES 3.5 MEGAWATTS OF ELECTRICITY, ENOUGH
TO PROVIDE POWER TO ABOUT 1,500 HOMES
"
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
ARTICLES, (cont. ')
"
THE DEBATE OVER THE FATE OF THE DAM IS EXPECTED TO DRAW THE ATTEN-
TION OF ENVIRONMENTALISTS, DEVELOPERS AND OTHERS FROM ACROSS THE
COUNTRY, BECAUSE EXPERTS BELIEVE IT COULD BE THE FIRST TIME A
FUNCTIONING HYDROELECTRIC DAM ON AN AMERICAN RIVER HAS EVER BEEN
BREACHED.."
"
McKERNAN'S PLAN HAS ITS DETRACTORS, PARTICULARLY AMONG CITY OFFICIAL
IN AUGUSTA, WHERE THE DAM IS LOCATED. CITY OFFICIALS WERE WORKING
ON A PLAN OF THEIR OWN TO TAKE OVER AND RE-DEVELOP THE DAM, BOOSTING
ITS ELECTRICAL OUTPUT FROM 3.5 MEGAWATTS TO 18 MEGAWATTS..."
"
BEFORE 1837, THE KENNEBAC RIVER FISHERY WAS KNOWN WORLDWIDE, WITH
KENNEBEC RIVER SALMON GRACING THE TABLES OF EUROPE, KANY (A WATER-
VILLE STATE SENATOR) SAID. 'THE STURGEON WERE HUGE AND HEAVILY LADEN
WITH ROE, OR CAVIAR. IT WAS A VERY SPECIAL FISHERY.''
--U.P.I. 2/4/90
9) "BRENNAN (McKERNAN'S RIVAL) GREW UP ON PORTLAND'S MUNJOY HILL, THE SON
OF A LONGSHOREMAN. HE WAS ASSIGNED TO THE MERCHANT MARINE AND
FISHERIES (COMMITTEE). " **HOW IRONIC THEN HIS OPPOSITION TO
McKERNAN'S PLAN.
--A.P. 12/29/90
RE-ELECT GOVERNOR MCKERNAN
JOKES
1) POTUS: "I ENJOYED BEING HERE IN AUGUST FOR GOVERNOR McKERNAN'S GOLF
TOURNAMENT. HOWEVER, I DON'T GET THE SAME RESPECT ON THE GOLF COURSE
THAT PRESIDENT EISENHOWER USED TO GET. WHEN HE LEFT OFFICE SOMEONE
ASKED HIM IF LEAVING THE WHITE HOUSE HAD AFFECTED HIS GAME, AND IKE
SAID'YES, A LOT MORE PEOPLE BEAT ME NOW. (D.G.)
2) "JOHN IS PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST ATHLETIC PUBLIC SERVANTS IN AMERICA.
HE COULD BECOME THE FIRST GOVERNOR TO GET HIS PICTURE ON A WHEATIES
BOX." D.G.
3) "AS A CONGRESSMAN, JOHN WON THE 'WATCHDOG OF THE TREASURY' AWARD.
ACTUALLY, WHEN IT COMES TO PROTECTING THE TAXPAYERS' MONEY, JOHN'
IS MORE THAN A WATCHDOG, HE'S A PITBULL." D.G.
1 5ᵗʰ agut huli - "mell. ml Pre-one breath statement"
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THE WHITE HOUSE
(Kennebunkport, Maine)
For Immediate Release
August 30, 1989
REMARKS BY THE PRESIDENT
TO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
UPON RECEIVING 1989 OUTSTANDING CITIZEN AWARD
The Shawmut Inn
(last time
Kennebunkport, Maine
12:24 P.M. EDT
pres Shanmant) spoke at
THE PRESIDENT: Well, what a magnificent picture. I'm
looking around at this crowd and I see a few faces old enough to
remember that boardwalk that went along -- (laughter) -- all the way
along Ocean Avenue there. And this is a very special occasion for
Barbara and me, and we're delighted to be here and I'm very pleased
to be honored by the Chamber.
I was afraid you might be feeling I had dishonored the
community with some of the excesses that have taken place out here,
but I want the record to show that when the bottom fell off of the
starboard engine on our boat the other day -- (laughter) -- it was
not an encounter with a lobster trap. (Laughter and applause.) The
Coast Guard guy went out and took a look at the reef off the point
there and started to tell me that he thought maybe accidently I had
hit a rock, and I told him, look, rocks do not grow in these waters.
I've been here for 65 years running around in a boat. Find some
other answer. Even if there is metal on the rock out there, I did
not hit that rock. (Laughter and applause.) And as
Commander-in-Chief of the Coast Guard, he changed his mind as I was
talking to him and -- (laughter) -- we now think it was a submerged
board. (Laughter.)
Barbara -- this Barbara -- thank you very much, Barbara
Aiello, for this honor and for welcoming us to our -- the community
that we do love so much. I'm delighted to be back at the Shawmut
where many of our press are staying and other friends that are
traveling with us, and this hospitality -- a few of them greeting us
over here -- the people working at the Shawmut. But it's a
wonder fully warm feeling that we get from all of you, our neighbors
in Kennebunkport and Kennebunk Beach and, of course, Kennebunk.
And it's a special time for me being here. We are doing
some work, but I have confessed at the very outset that this is a
pure, total vacation. And I'm not going to look busy in order to
convince people in America that it's something other than a vacation.
(Laughter.) I mean, it's the way it is, and -- (applause) there
are some hazards out there. Some of you have been on the golf course
when I play, and that's -- (laughter) -- and other challenges. One
of them now is, we have a fleet of plastic toys that Barbara bought
at some -- I hope it was at a sale There are many cars and little
scooters and all out there, and it's a hazard to get out the front
door, get into the car or into the boat just to escape all these
kids playthings.
But one of the great joys for us has been having our
grandchildren here and I expect that those in Kennebunkport will
recognize a familiar scene as we prepare this year's Christmas card.
I'm not going to comment on the fishing -- a vicious
assault on my (laughter) -- vicious assault on my ability. I'm
going to call the editor of the Portland paper, however, and present
this to him: How would he call it? This morning, we got up and
MORE
- 2 -
through what was a rather heavy fog, went down to Whistler off Cape
Porpoise, and then down off of Woods Island, and here's my position:
I was driving the boat, placing the boat so that Sandy Boardman, who
was with me, could catch a bluefish. And she did. And I think they
should knock off that advertisement on the front of the Portland
paper that shows a bluefish with a big X through it -- (laughter) --
telling me that yet a 13th day I haven't caught one. I'm going to
appeal to them on that one.
It's been a joy -- a joy to be here. And I -- Barbara
put it pretty well -- that this is a place where we really enjoy
ourselves, but more than that kind of refurbish our souls and get our
batteries all charged up and enjoy life really to the fullest. It's
a point of view. You can feel it in the land and in the water here.
And I know that people that are members of this Chamber and other
visitors that we have here with us understand exactly what I'm
talking about.
Barbara has told you that I've been coming here every
summer since 19 -- well, I was born in '24. And the only one I
missed was the summer of 1944 when, like many of you, I was in the
service. That's the only time that we missed being here. And there
pristul
is a certain magic about the place. Our kids live in five different
states -- one in Cape Elizabeth, and the others four different states
and for them, this is an anchor to windward, because not far from
where this picture was painted, my mother was born in a house still
standing right there not too far from St. Ann's Church.
So enough of the reminiscence, but it means renewal to us
-- a moment to reflect. And as Barbara said, some of my colleagues
in the government have had an opportunity to come here for
substantive meetings. Today, I can't wait to show off this heaven to
the Prime Minister of Canada, his wife and his four kids who will be
visiting us around the corner.
And the other day it was the Prime Minister of Denmark
and his charming wife. And as some of you all remember last -- in
May, I believe it was, we had the President of the French Republic
here. And it is more than just inviting them to a lovely place.
Because I've found, as I will with Mulroney, that with both the
Danish Prime Minister, Mr. Schlueter, and Mr. Mitterrand, you could
converse and you could relax and you could really get to know each
other in a wonderful setting. And though I don't believe foreign
policy is determined on whether a foreign leader likes you or not, I
do think it makes a difference if you can develop a good personal
relationship. And you, our neighbors, have helped us in that regard
as we've had some distinguished foreign visitors here.
I appreciate the Outstanding Citizen Award. I don't know
what the vote was on this one. (Laughter.) But I want to tell you a
true story. This came as a little bit of it -- well, it was good for
my ego that tends to mount when you get into this job from time to
time. But they decided to name a public school after me -- I think
it was a junior high school, or maybe an elementary school -- in
Midland, Texas, where we lived for 12 years. And this is God's
honest truth -- the vote was either 4-3 or 3-2 in favor of naming the
school for me. (Laughter.) So, Barbara, I hope it was a little more
one-sided than that in this -- giving me this significant honor. But
I really am pleased to accept it.
I know that the Chamber of the Kennebunks is made up of a
lot of entrepreneurs, and I would be remiss at a meeting like this if
I didn't ask you to give me strong support as I go back to Washington
to fight for a capital gains tax differential. (Applause.) I
believe that small business, providing jobs to those who don't have
jobs, small business entrepreneurs really are the backbone of this
country in many ways. And I am absolutely convinced that John
Kennedy was right years ago -- 25 years ago or more -- when he talked
about the need to have a differential in the capital gains and,
indeed, to call for a reduction in the capital gains tax because it
MORE
- 3 -
stimulates the economy. It encourages risk-taking. It rewards those
who go out and employ others and start new businesses. And I am just
convinced that it is good; I am convinced that it will help with our
deficit -- not inhibit the efforts I am making to get this budget
deficit down in accord with the Gramm-Rudman targets.
And so I would ask your strong support to your very able
congressional delegation as we now go back to battle for what I think
is a good incentive for business people, men and women -- small
business entrepreneurs, those who have the courage to go off on their
own and start new businesses wherever they may be. And I ask for
your help. (Applause.)
Incidentally, I do believe we're going to get a good
agreement on the budget deficit reduction package. I think it will
be accomplished without raising the taxes on the American working man
in this country. The question still is -- the problem still is this
-- it isn't that the working man is paying too much -- too little in
taxes, it is that the government continues to, for a lot of reasons,
to spend too much. And I am going to continue to try to hold the
line on taxes. And, again, I need your support there. (Applause.)
Right here in Kennebunk you've had some -- Kennebunkport
-- you've had some examples of people that have been successful. The
owner at the White Barn Inn may be with us today. Is Laurie here?
Laurie Bongiorno -- over here -- quoting him, perhaps to his
embarrassment, but he said, "We have an opportunity to create value
in our businesses by taking a longer view. This would be easier
without the burdensome weight of the capital gains tax." And I think
he's absolutely right.
George Bergeron. He runs a landscaping operation with a
very unusual name. It is called George's Bush and Tree Service.
(Laughter.) I loved it when I saw that. (Laughter.) But let me
tell you about this guy. I don't know whether he's here or not. But
-- back here? Fantastic. Planning for his retirement, he says, "I
left my work to go into business for myself. I took the risks and
went the American way for the sake of my retirement. Wouldn't it be
ironic," he continues, "if just as I was ready to cash in, the
government took such a big piece of the profit from me?"
He's absolutely right. The backbone of our recovery --
in October it'll be the longest in the history of the United States
-- comes from the small businessman or woman, who then makes it work
and goes out and gives jobs to other people. The best answer to
poverty in this country is a job, and I want to keep this economic
expansion going. (Applause.)
I was told to say just a few words, but let me end with
just a little reference to the times we're living in regarding our
foreign policy and the challenges we face as a country. And you see
the kids here and it reminds me that just before I went to Poland --
on a fascinating trip to Eastern Europe, including Hungary and
Poland, and then to Paris -- the Polish journalists came into that
beautiful, majestic Oval Office, and they asked me, what would you
tell a young kid in Poland today? And I had in my mind as he asked
me the question the numbers of people in Chicago and in Detroit, and
indeed some in Maine, who have come to this country from Poland --
the arms of the Statue of Liberty outstretched -- then in the past as
it is, thank God, still today.
And I thought about it, and then I thought about the
change, the political change that's taking place in Eastern Europe --
change far more dramatic than I could have conceived when I was in
the Congress, say, 20 years ago. And I said if I were a kid in
Poland, I'd always want to see the United States -- I'm thinking on
this -- to see the United States as a beacon. But I told him, if I
were a kid in Poland, I'd want to stay there. I'd want to
participate in the change because we are living in a fascinating
time. And you look at what's happening in the Soviet Union, the
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- 4 -
changes of perestroika -- reform, glasnost -- openness. It's
dramatic, it's new, the aspirations for freedom are there. And you
see the changes again in Poland where you have a communist government
change through free elections to a government that contains people
mainly out of the Solidarnosc movement, the labor union movement.
So the point I want to make to you is, we're living in
exciting times. And I can say with confidence to these kids, if we
do our job right, if we handle the relationship with the Soviet Union
properly, and if we then are smart enough and intelligent enough to
delicately have the role of the United States be one of helpfulness
in Eastern Europe, I think we can see a world where the peace is much
more enhanced, or the threat of war, nuclear war, conventional war
greatly reduced.
And it is an exciting time to be growing up in the United
States, and it certainly is an exciting time to be the President of
the United States of America. I like my job, I'm going to work hard
for you, and thank you very, very much for this honor. Thank you so
much. (Applause.)
END
12:40 P.M. EDT
The Shawmut Inn Square- rigger
Our Shawmut Jan square-rigger was not
hosemidly an insignia, but because this
particular proud-masted vessel was one of a
which brought world-wide fame to the
Maine coastal village of Kennebunkport She
is Maine downeaster, a comfortable
merchantman and passenger ship of a
moderately good speed, reputed to be among
Clark's Shipyard
the most seaworthy ships of her day.
It was on a chill January morning in 1869 when her masts rose high by the steeple of the old
Congregational Church which still stands just above the drawbridge in the village of Kennebunkport, A
few days before, the "Frank N. Thayer", as she was christened, had slipped down the ways from the
David Clark shipyard. Now, masts in place,
surrounded by dozens of small boats in the
gay holiday mood of such occasions, the
Thayer was being towed slowly through the
narrow channel toward the bridge.
The Civil War over, life was returning to
normal, and Thayer & Lincoln, shipowners of
Boston, had commissioned this reliable
downeaster for their merchant trade. As she
scraped a little paint from her hull squeezing
through the drawbridge, the Shawmut Inn
wasn't even it dream. But such is the strange
pattern of history, that a member of the
Small family was there when the Theyer was
Builder David Clark
launched. The Great-grandfation of Frank
Small, the Inn's present owner, had a small
farm right on the present Inc property at the mouth of Turbot's Creek. Like all the townspeople on
such an exciting day, grandfather Small was at the launching. What's more, as the Thayer made
her way down the Kennebunk river, turning downeast to catch the prevailing wind, she passed right by
the present location of the SHAWMUT INN.
The Frank N. Thayer as she looked under
full sail in that omantic bygone era may be
Photo Photo OP Room
securia a painting now hanging 10 our Colonial
Room, copied from the old shipowners
documentary water color of 1869, by
Kennebunkport artist Edward Mavo. We're
proud to have this reminder of our Maine
coast's shipbuilding heritage, grace the walls
of the Shawmut Inn, and serve in silhous the as
our insignia.
The Small Family Form
THE WHITE HOUSE
Office of the Press Secretary
(Kennebunkport, Maine)
POOL REPORT #25
August 30, 1989
BUSH TRAVELS TO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE SPEECH
When the pool vans left the Shawmut at 11:45 there were several
dozen demonstrators gathered at the end of the driveway holding a
large sign that said, "Affordable Health Care, Every American's
Right," and chanting, "Health Care." Also some unrelated signs
including "Veterans For Peace." When the motorcade returned with
President Bush at 12:15 the demonstrators were nowhere to be
seen.
Eleven vehicle motorcade from Walker's Point to the Shawmut took
four minutes and was uneventful.
In case you couldn't see it from the press stand, the picture
Bush was presented by the Chamber Of Commerce was a newly done
oil painting showing Walker's Point, a model T type car going
along a dirt road, and a boardwalk that no longer exists. The
painting was by Ron Goyette and shows Walker's Point circa 1906.
The stage was built atop the shuffleboard courts; a large
representation of the American Flag in red, white and blue
balloons was to one side; and a motorboat and motorized raft,
presumably with Secret Service Agents aboard, could be seen close
to shore. The President of the Chamber Of Commerce, Barbara
Aiello, said tickets to the event had cost $30, but they had no
estimate of the expected net profit. She said last years winners
of this award were Henry and Priscilla Pasco, owner of Pasco's, a
gallery. They have been active in community events for 40 years.
After the speech, President Bush and Mrs. Bush worked the rope
line, shaking hands and signing autographs.
Susan Page, Newsday
THE WHITE HOUSE
Office of the Press Secretary
(Kennebunkport, Maine)
POOL REPORT #25
August 30, 1989
BUSH TRAVELS TO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE SPEECH
When the pool vans left the Shawmut at 11:45 there were several
dozen demonstrators gathered at the end of the driveway holding a
large sign that said, "Affordable Health Care, Every American's
Right," and chanting, "Health Care." Also some unrelated signs
including "Veterans For Peace." When the motorcade returned with
President Bush at 12:15 the demonstrators were nowhere to be
seen.
Eleven vehicle motorcade from Walker's Point to the Shawmut took
four minutes and was uneventful.
In case you couldn't see it from the press stand, the picture
Bush was presented by the Chamber of Commerce was a newly done
oil painting showing Walker's Point, a model T type car going
along a dirt road, and a boardwalk that no longer exists. The
painting was by Ron Goyette and shows Walker's Point circa 1906.
The stage was built atop the shuffleboard courts; a large
representation of the American Flag in red, white and blue
balloons was to one side; and a motorboat and motorized raft,
presumably with Secret Service Agents aboard, could be seen close
to shore. The President of the Chamber Of Commerce, Barbara
Aiello, said tickets to the event had cost $30, but they had no
estimate of the expected net profit. She said last years winners
of this award were Henry and Priscilla Pasco, owner of Pasco's, a
gallery. They have been active in community events for 40 years.
After the speech, President Bush and Mrs. Bush worked the rope
line, shaking hands and signing autographs.
Susan Page, Newsday
THE SHAWMUT INN
P.O. Box 431
Kennebunkport, Maine 04046
RENNEBUNKPORT
207/967-3931
1-800-876-3931
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Janey Bishoff
Helene Solomon
207/967-3931
Room 211 thru 8/30/89
617/782-0207 after 8/30/89
or
Joe Digangi
207/967-3931
KENNEBUNKPORT HONORS PRESIDENT BUSH AT SHAWMUT INN CEREMONY
Boston Businessman Hosts Presidential Festivities
Kennebunkport, Maine - President Bush will make his first
official public appearance on his vacation Wednesday, August
30th, to be honored as the Kennebunkport Chamber of Commerce
"Outstanding Citizen of the Year". The Award will be presented
at a NOON reception on the grounds of the Shawmut Inn.
The Historic Shawmut Inn, located just down the road from
the Bush home at Walker's Point, was recently purchased by BOSTON
REAL ESTATE DEVELOPER AND RESTAURANTEUR RALPH BRUNO.
Over 600 Kennebunkport businesspeople and their guests are
expected to attend the reception. Guests will be served hors
d'oeurves and champagne in white tents on the lawn at the Shawmut
Inn overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
- More -
Shawmut Inn Continued
Pg.: 2
The Shawmut Inn, now filled with the White House Press
Corps, is about to undergo dramatic changes in the form of a $30
million reconstruction. The Shawmut, dealing with the national
media, already has authorized representatives of the television
networks to install a maze of cables and wiring that will allow
for the transmission of high quality video directly from the
grounds of the Inn.
Eventually, Mr. Bruno expects to purchase this equipment and
use it as the technical base for a sophisticated teleconference
center to be included among the amenities of the rebuilt Inn.
"We're getting an education in how to put together a
conference center that is capable of hosting high-level meetings
regardless of whether The President is here, " Bruno-says. "In
the long run it is facilities of this level of sophistication
which will set the Shawmut apart as the beautiful seaside resort
that counts a little bit more than the next one down the road, "
he says.
"Our overall purpose is no less than to establish the
Shawmut as a destination point for people who want an environment
that is all but perfectly restorative, " he says. "If anything,
the conference center will be one of the less promenient features
of the renovations and new construction that we plan. "
- More -
Shawmut Inn Continued
Pg. 3
According to the approved architecural plans, the rebuilt
Shawmut will be in keeping with the general look of the existing
structure but will change dramatically in almost every way as
follows:
The number of rooms and suites will increase to 205.
Suites will range in size from 200 square feet to more
than 1500 square feet.
Some suites will be set aside for sale to private
individuals and corporations.
Conference and public areas will be set apart almost
completely from the residential area of the hotel.
The entrance to residential areas will feature archways
leading to facilities on the back lawn and the ocean.
The complex will include three restaurants, two
lounges, reading rooms, a tournament quality croquet
lawn, indoor and outdoor swimming facilities, a
putting green, tennis courts and a skating pond.
In addition, residents and guests will have exclusive
access to a restorative spa modeled after spas found at
European resorts.
- More -
Shawmut Inn Continued
Pg. 4
The layout of the new complex will include common areas
that will be made available to residents and civic
organizations in Kennebunkport for special events and
other cultural activities.
The reconstruction of the Shawmut will follow architectural
plans developed by the firm of Dennis Mires of Manchester, New
Hampshire.
###
-
THE SHAWMUT INN
PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE
The Shawmut Inn is a stately, turn of the century inn, which stands as a tribute to the
elegant days of the past. Since its inception in the late nineteenth century, the
Shawmut Inn has been a special Maine tradition.
n the late 1800's a gentleman named John Curtis operated a boarding house on what
IOW is the property of the Shawmut Inn. It was William Rankin who later bought the
roperty and built on it a guest house, which was to become the Shawmut Inn.
lankin's Inn had about twenty rooms, which could accommodate forty guests for the
ummer season. The Inn was operated successfully until after the second world war
hen Rankin's heirs lost all interest in the hotel operations.
1 1947, the Inn was sold to entrepreneur Harry Small, and under his guidance, the
hawmut flourished. Harry Small was instrumental in expanding the Shawmut by
dding the Chalet building, the cottages, Vaughn's Island and the Ocean Point
ildings. He also acquired the adjoining lands, which combined, make up the twenty
10 acres of the present Shawmut. During this bountiful period, the Shawmut enjoyed
tremendous reputation among the local residents and visitors to the area. Its
pularity for premier dining, "New England Cusine" deliciously prepared and expertly
rved, "was reknown." The Shawmut Inn was in its heyday.
>trad of insign
ter Harry Small's death in the mid-sixties, the Shawmut Inn passed through a series
owners. The 1970's declining economic conditions brough with it S decline in
urism.
the 1980's, large amounts of capital were invested into upgrading the property.
wever, due to other business interests and financial contraints on the part of its
ners, the Shawmut was sold in December of 1986 to two local real estate
elopers, Mark A. Kearns and James D. Waterman. Having been successful in
eloping other recreational properties in Southern Maine, Waterman and Kearns
nediately saw enormous potential, and devised a strategy for redeveloping the
wmut Inn. Their primary purpose being to up-date and enhance the property.
6 anival
colonial some
MALNE
6:30 Tenace
20-25 mirs
1
Green Cthat goesengh miles Room
(it will prob fe begining to than in
Oct)
Bush can really talk about how
he loves Maine beauty, he knows itwell
- lobsters
color
- cold weather
- what the mes likes to of when his
people love the land Invino
here fugh boating
2
SITE
FOR MCKERNAN
- beautiful room : windows all around,
surrounded by the sea
SAH
" Shawement"
-
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someone Monos governor, governor intros pres.
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Band played at innoing NO BAND
8
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Peop will be in bus attime
Stand up - 300
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Pres has been here before
8
Band will be
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A
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[-then a couple days later an event
Judd Gg (R & somebody weal
Pre o poles has last year
- Beth Kressy, dep of sales, she
handled legistres of his fulk here last
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Sandy Dath - not very helpful
Main Issues
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becam give you anecdate
KENNEBUNK KENNEBUNKPORT
Chamber of Commerce
Telephone (207) 967-0857
Coopers Corner (Rt. 9 & 35)
P.O. Box 740
Kennebunk, Maine 04043
President Bush
Named Citizen of the Year
President George Bush has been named "Outstanding Citizen of the Year" by the
Kennebunk Kennebunkport Chamber of Commerce, Barbara Aiello, president of the Chamber,
announced today.
"Indeed, what could be more outstanding than to attain the highest office in the land,
to be the leader of the free world? This truly awesome accomplishment by a member of our
community made Mr. Bush a unanimous choice as our Outstanding Citizen".
President Bush will receive the award at a special ceremony on Wednesday at the Shawmut Inn,
addressing brief remarks to a noon gathering of Chamber members and their guests.
The President joins a distinguished group of local citizens whose lives and accomplishments
have been recognized by the Chamber in year's past. Other recent recipients include Priscilla
and Henry Pasco, Tad Dow, Lucinda Lord and Betty Joyce.
The Chamber of Comerce, which represents businesses in Kennebunk and Kennebunkport, is in
its 43rd year, having been established in 1947. Reorganized in 1988, it now has a full time
executive director and staff -- and, with 435 members, it is among the largest chambers in the
State of Maine.
Ms. Aiello credits the reorganization and larger role of the Chamber to the "rapid growth we
have experienced in this area over the past decade. While tourism continues to be the major part of
this area's economy, we have also seen a great influx of permanent year-round businesses -- and
an increasing need to provide leadership in bringing business and community together over a wide
range of mutual interests."
The Chamber is working closely with other established business organizations, including the
Kennebunkport Business Association and the Kennebunk Merchants Association. A Planning Retreat
scheduled for September will explore more effective ways of advancing the common interests of all
types of businesses within the two towns.
THE KENNEBUNKS:
KENNEBUNK
KENNEBUNK BEACH
KENNEBUNKPORT
CAPE PORPOISE
GOOSE ROCKS BEACH
AMERICA THE
QUOTABLE
Mike Eachart and
James Tinen
Maines literary
native sens
-
- HenryWadsworth
Congfellow
- Kenneth
Roberts Currite)
ns,, you can legalize your
understand the society of New Orleans one needs to
Lake Charles:
imagine what French society would be in a genial
nmer clothes,
climate and in the freedom of a new country."
"What makes our sunsets [in Lake Charles] different
Charles Dudley Warner
from other sunsets is that Old Sol doesn't just go
Paul Simon
Studies in the South and West
down-he goes down behind spurts of orange flame
Take Me to the Mardi Gras"
1889
from the tops of the oil refineries across the lake."
1973
***
Resident
***
"New Orleans is the most cosmopolitan of provincial
Quoted by Philip Hamburger
tom for the boats to leave New
cities. Its comparative isolation has secured the de-
An American Notebook
and five 'clock in the after-
velopment of provincial traits and manners, has pre-
1965
clock onward they would be
served the individuality of the many races that give it
Port Allen:
ch-pine (the sign of prepara-
color, morals, and character, while its close relations
the picturesque spectacle of a
with France-an affiliation and sympathy which the
"Port Allen-where the river's all rain and roses in a
e miles long, of tall, ascending
late war has not altogether broken-and the constant
k smoke; a colonnade which
misty pinpoint darkness and where we swung around
influx of northern men of business and affairs have
of of the same smoke blended
a circular drive in yellow foglight and suddenly saw
given it the air of a metropolis."
g abroad over the city. Every
the great black body below a bridge and crossed
Charles Dudley Warner
ad its flag flying at the jack-
eternity again."
Studies in the South and West
Jack Kerouac
a duplicate on the verge staff
1889
On the Road
miles of mates were command-
***
1955
th more than usual emphasis:
"What a jolly place New Orleans is, where the police
; of freight barrels and boxes
reassure the whores!"
Southwestern Louisiana:
irt the levee and flying abroad
Tourist
ated passengers were dodging
Quoted by Edmund Wilson
[How locals react to the idea of progress]: "Let me
these frantic things, hoping to
"The old Conviviality and the New"
see if I've got this straight. You think there's a
ompanionway alive, but having
1926
serious threat that [once backward] southwestern
Louisiana might be joining civilization?"
Mark Twain
Joel Garreau
The Gilded Age
The Nine Nations of North America
1873
Other Cities and Places
1981
***
cture in New Orleans, except in
Baton Rouge:
MAINE
Mark Twain
"Baton Rouge, capital and third largest city of Loui-
Life on the Mississippi
siana, overlooks the Mississippi River from Istrouma
1874
Bluff. It is a modern city bordered by great industrial
***
plants and by tree-shaded reaches of the Capitol
treet life [in New Orleans] are
grounds. Residential streets are lined with oaks, elms
because unconscious, while full
and magnolias. Here in 1719 the French built a fort
be a Creole courtyard, the walls
to subdue the Indian tribes and gave it the name
flowers blooming in haphazard
('Istrouma' meaning 'red stick' or in French, 'baton
up of pretty girls sewing and
rouge') derived from the reddened post that stood
ng the passerby with a charmed
here to indicate the boundary between lands of two
a cotton team in the street, the
different tribes."
Capital: Augusta
Entered the union (with rank): March 15, 1820 (23)
3 driver, the creaking cart. It may
The Federal Writers Project of the WPA
or a group in the market or on the
The American Guide
State motto: Dirigo (I direct)
llow girl sweeping up the grains
1949
State flower: White pine cone
State bird: Chickadee
leaner recalling Ruth
***
State song: "State of Maine Song"
Charles Dudley Warner
"Baton Rouge was clothed in flowers, like a bride-
State tree: White pine tree
Studies in the South and West
no. much more so; like a greenhouse. For we were in
Nickname: Pine Tree State
1889
the absolute South now-no modifications, no com-
Origin of state name: Either a compliment to Henri-
***
promises, no half-way measures."
etta Maria, Queen of England (married to Charles
ation differed totally from that in
Mark Twain
I), who was said to own the province of Mayne in
it looked at life, literature, wit,
Life on the Mississippi
France, or from sailors' reference to it as the
gether another plane; in order to
1874
mainland they first sighted
229
MAINE
harmony by which our impe
Maine is proud of the fact that each morning the sun
for the 'rugged'; from the first it would have no
sured and perhaps redeemed.
first touches American soil along the Maine coast.
headlong frontier scramble, disorderly and squalid; it
This huge cornerstone state occupies almost half of
demanded courage, character, and endurance. To
New England's land area. Its extended coastline may
this day, the state grants its people the inestimable
have given rise to its name; it was often the first sign
boon-inestimable in 20th century America-of not
of the continent sailors saw, so it became known as
having things both passive and too easy. It makes
***
the mainland. The coast also gave rise to the phrase
demands."
"The coast had still a wintry
frequently associated with the state, "down east"; to
Henry Beston
May, but all the shore looke
sail down Maine's coast was to be sailing east.
White Pine and Blue Water
was conscious of going north
Maine is a wonderland of trees. More than 80
1950
the day went on the sea gn
percent of its landscape is living wood. The most
***
extensive forests in the eastern United States fill its
warmer air and bracing stren
"Like its language, coastal Maine is for me the
autumn weather, and storage
undulant countryside. As a result, Maine has become
purest kind of metaphor: a way of living with
were quite gone."
a vital lumber and paper center. The sweet smell of
weather, a way of talking about good men, a way of
pulp mills hangs over the countryside, and logs have
surviving hard country."
The Cour
priority on the state's rivers.
Philip Booth
But the attention of Maine residents isn't on their
Maine Lines
trees but on their shore. The coast of Maine is an
1970
***
unexploited American treasure. California's coast
***
gets lots of press, but Maine's is longer and often
" but the fog that is so
"
I never see a lovely old house in Maine without
more spectacular. It extends some 3,500 miles (in-
tourists is easy on the blueber
wondering why I do not live in it. I think of one after
cluding offshore islands). The fishing fleets of the
in the woods. and every roads
the other, all built more than a century ago, made
North Atlantic sail from its cove-side towns. Tourist
hand-lettered 'Blueberry Mu
beautifully strong and handsomely designed."
windjammers still ply the coastal waters. America's
window these foggy morni
Pearl S. Buck
boats are still built by seamen there.
moisture. Without the fog, th
America
Maine has taken on the character of its residents-
berries. Without the fog, ther
1971
calm men of action, but never too hasty, thank you.
mosses that make the misty C
***
In the past, though, the state was a place of hot
the most enchanting on earth
tempers and violence. The French and Indians
"Maine is not just the land. It is also the sea. There is
fragrant."
warred throughout Maine for most of the 18th cen-
an eternal struggle between the two. Neither quite
tury. Later, Maine inhabitants grew furious at their
wins, neither quite loses."
long overseership by tiny Massachusetts; they were
Pearl S. Buck
America
***
ready to blow when the Missouri Compromise of
1971
1820 created the free state of Maine to balance the
equation of free and slave states in that futile attempt
***
"Here too in Maine things b
ever.
to stave off civil war.
"Try to find a place where winter comes as honestly
as it does in Maine. It will do you no good to look in
After two years away, one m
the cities or search the suburbs of the rest of the
to the painted soft wood stay
THE STATE
Northeast; there they consider winter too elemental
to the air blasting an all-whit
to be endured and so have shamed it with soot, slush
as it blows through curtain ai
"To my mind Maine is the most beautiful state we
and smog. In this part of the world, only Maine gives
touched with salt and evergre
have in this country, but even more appealing is its
winter the welcome and the worship it should have."
homeliness."
John N. Cole
Booth Tarkington
In Maine
Quoted by Clifton Fadiman
1974
American Treasury 1455-1955
***
***
1955
"The rigor of the climate, the rectitude of the people
I know there, the glittering purity of the Maine air.
'It was a Maine lobster towr
THE LANDSCAPE
the slow inexorable persistence of the primordial
each morning boatloads of ha
rhythms of nature, the true scale of things where
pushed off for granite
human life is subject to the seasons and the tides-all
quarries on the islands,
"On they [settlers] came, and defending itself
against the arrival of man, the earth put on its armor
these associations of a lifetime's summers crowd my
thought. Their images of power and beauty outside
and left dozens of bleak
of snow and sometimes arctic cold. To use a favorite
white frame houses stuck
word of the Maine vocabulary, its prizes were to be
the possibilities of human making [sic] suggest a
230
MAINE
harmony by which our imperfections may be mea-
like oyster shells
first it would have no
sured and perhaps redeemed."
on a hill of rock."
disorderly and squalid; it
Daniel Hoffman
Robert Lowell
er, and endurance. To
Maine Lines
"Water"
; people the inestimable
1970
For the Union Dead
century America-of not
1964
and too easy. It makes
***
*
"The coast had still a wintry look; it was far on in
Henry Beston
May, but all the shore looked cold and sterile. One
" 'From the summit of Green Mountain,' wrote an
ite Pine and Blue Water
was conscious of going north as well as east, and as
anonymous visitor in 1866, 'the view is one of
1950
the day went on the sea grew colder, and all the
unparalleled wonder. Half ocean, half land, and the
*
warmer air and bracing strength and stimulus of the
middle distance a bright mosaic of island and bay, it
1 Maine is for me the
autumn weather, and storage of the heat of summer,
stretches from far Katahdin at the north, 120 miles as
a way of living with
were quite gone."
the crow flies, to an unlimited distance over the
out good men, a way of
Sarah Orne Jewett
sea.' "
The Country of the Pointed Firs
Quoted by Kenneth Roberts
Philip Booth
1896
Trending Into Maine
Maine Lines
1938
1970
***
***
*
..
but the fog that is so hard on mariners and
"Once, when Joe [the Indian guide] had called
[ house in Maine without
tourists is easy on the blueberries. They are ripening
again, and we were listening for moose, we heard,
in it. I think of one after
in the woods, and every roadside cafe in Maine has a
come faintly echoing, or creeping from afar, through
an a century ago, made
hand-lettered 'Blueberry Muffins' sign in its front
the moss-clad aisles, a dull, dry, rushing sound with
somely designed."
window these foggy mornings. Blueberries need
a solid core to it, yet as if half-smothered under the
Pearl S. Buck
moisture. Without the fog, there would be no blue-
grasp of the luxuriant and fungus-like forest, like the
America
berries. Without the fog, there would be no ferns or
shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp
1971
mosses that make the misty coastal woods of Maine
and shaggy wilderness. If we had not been there, no
*
the most enchanting on earth to walk in, spongy and
mortal had heard it. When we asked Joe in a whisper
It is also the sea. There is
fragrant."
what it was, he answered, "Tree fall.'
1 the two. Neither quite
Charles Kuralt
Henry David Thoreau
Dateline America
The Maine Woods
Pearl S. Buck
1979
1850
America
***
***
1971
"We had hardly got out of the streets of Bangor
*
"Here too in Maine things bend to the wind for-
before I began to be exhilarated by the sight of the
ever.
winter comes as honestly
wild fir and spruce tops, and those of other primitive
lo you no good to look in
After two years away, one must get used
evergreens, peering through the mist in the horizon."
burbs of the rest of the
to the painted soft wood staying briny and clean,
Henry David Thoreau
der winter too elemental
to the air blasting an all-white wall whiter,
The Maine Woods
hamed it with soot, slush
as it blows through curtain and screen
1850
world, only Maine gives
touched with salt and evergreen."
***
worship it should have."
Robert Lowell
"Shortly before he died, Bernard DeVoto gave the
John N. Cole
"Soft Wood"
Maine coast a brisk going over in his Harper's
In Maine
Near the Ocean
column, using some four-letter words that raised the
1974
1966
hackles of the inhabitants. Mr. DeVoto used the word
***
*
'slum' and the word 'neon.'
e rectitude of the people
E.B. White
"It was a Maine lobster town-
purity of the Maine air,
tence of the primordial
each morning boatloads of hands
Home-Coming
1955
e scale of things where
pushed off for granite
quarries on the islands,
***
seasons and the tides-all
me's summers crowd my
"The road into Maine does not seem a slum to me.
and left dozens of bleak
ower and beauty outside
Like highways everywhere, it is a mixed dish.
white frame houses stuck
making [sic] suggest a
You can certainly learn to spell 'moccasin' while
231
MAINE
driving into Maine, and there is often little else to do,
would be difficult to find in any portion of our land
Indians, the weather, the wrath
except steer and avoid death."
more happy homes than are found in Maine."
talking, out-of-state salesmen
E.B. White
John S.C. Abbott
defensiveness have trained th
Home-Coming
The History of Maine
lend itself to merely polite S
1955
1875
even slight concern or any sur
* *
I
***
"Woods and fields encroach everywhere, creeping to
"There are parts of this country which resist urban
within a few feet of the neon and the court, and the
culture, one of which is the coastal region of Maine,
the part of it I know. The native Yankee population
***
experienced traveler into this land is always con-
has such natural dignity that it does not like to see the
"These people were Down Ea
scious that just behind the garish roadside stand, in
its thicket of birch and spruce, stands the delicate and
incursion of anything that is false to them
They
they ever came here. The c
well-proportioned deer; just beyond the overnight
have too much pride to get rich. Riches are not in the
them. All the country did was
ones, to dismiss the soft ones
cabin, in the pasture of granite and juniper, trots the
picture of their relation to the land and their fel-
lows."
Those left were of the pure,
perfectly designed fox. This is still our triumphant
Richard Eberhart
shelled as butternuts and as
architecture, and the Maine man does not have to
Maine Lines
admitted to no superiors on ea
penetrate in depth to be excited by his coastal run; its
1970
them, they did not care. They
flavor steals into his consciousness with the first
***
proud of it. Their descendant
ragged glimpse of properly textured woodland, the
first whiff of punctually drained cove."
"These ancient seafarers had houses and lands not
them. There is one aspect (
E.B. White
outwardly different from other Dunnet Landing
ever, that is often overlooke
dwellings, and two of them were fathers of families,
know them well [It is] a
Home-Coming
but their true dwelling places were the sea, and the
better than it is humanly po
1955
***
stony beach that edged its familiar shore, and the
Easter broods overlong on a
fishhouses, where much salt brine from the mackerel
to be concerned with angels
"In Maine, the frost comes sharp and quick as driven
kits had soaked the very timbers into a state of brown
dangerous."
nails, just for a week or so the woods, all of the
permanence and petrifaction. It also affected the old
bright and bitter leaves, flare up: the maples turn a
fishermen's hard complexions, until one fancied that
blazing bitter red, and other leaves turn yellow like a
when Death claimed them it could only be with the
living light, falling about you as you walk the woods,
aid, not of any slender modern dart, but the good
* *
falling about you like small pieces of the sun so that
serviceable harpoon of a seventeenth century wood-
"Surely I never met such a
you cannot say where sunlight shakes and flutters on
cut."
Yankees]. I would hate to
the ground, and where the leaves."
Sarah Orne Jewett
anything they didn't want t
Thomas Wolfe
Preface to The Country of the Pointed Firs
Of Time and the River
1896
1935
***
"Here's to the state of Maine, the land of the bluest
* *
skies, the greenest earth, the richest air, the strong-
"And the coastal people b
est, and what is better, the sturdiest men, the fairest,
are secret people, and perha
PEOPLE
and what is best of all, the truest women under the
aught behind their eyes, h
sun."
perhaps even they do not k
"The flood of foreign immigration is not pouring
Thomas B. Reed
into Maine as into some other parts of the Union. But
Speech at Portland, Maine
this saves the State from a vast amount in inebriation,
Aug. 7, 1900
vagabondage, crime, and pauperism. And those who
***
do select Maine as their home generally come from
"Even fat Yankees, of which there are some but not
those countries of Northern Europe where intelli-
many, and jolly Yankees, of which there are even
WAY OF LIFE
gence and piety prevail.
fewer, manage somehow to give the impression that
This renders the community in Maine in a remark-
behind the watchful eyes detached judgments are
"A moose may take it in
able degree homogeneous. The society is in a high
being made and uncompromising conclusions drawn.
Route 1, but there is n
degree intelligent, moral, and social. And thus it is
This is frequently a false impression, rising from the
crowded, and inescapab
that Christian churches arise in every village, that
Down Easters' disinclination to expose their feel-
smother one about; one (
intemperance can be arrested as scarcely anywhere
ings. Ever since they first came to the Maine coast,
grasp to remain an indiv
else, that schools and colleges are multiplied, and
they have necessarily been on guard against unex-
Modern mass pressures,
intelligence and morality are widely diffused. It
pected attacks from a variety of quarters, including
mean a compulsion towar
232
any portion of our land
Indians, the weather, the wrath of God, and smooth-
tion, and this the state-of-Mainer has happily
found in Maine."
talking, out-of-state salesmen. These centuries of
avoided; in the old American tradition, he can still do
John S.C. Abbott
defensiveness have trained the Yankee face not to
many things and do them well."
The History of Maine
lend itself to merely polite smiles, expressions of
Henry Beston
1875
even slight concern or any surprise at all."
White Pine and Blue Water
*
Louise Dickinson Rich
1950
untry which resist urban
State O' Maine
***
"
coastal region of Maine,
1964
Maine enjoys being Maine. Something of the
native Yankee population
***
18th century gusto of living continues here, and there
t it does not like to see the
These people were Down East Yankees long before
is a positive enjoyment of adventure, character, and
is false to them They
they ever came here. The country did not change
circumstance. Bulwarked by the tradition of an an-
rich. Riches are not in the
them. All the country did was eliminate the incapable
cestral New England, by the discipline of the wilder-
D the land and their fel-
ones, to dismiss the soft ones to easier-living places.
ness and the ordinances of the sea, the way of life has
Those left were of the pure, obdurate strain, hard-
faced the age of the machine and preserved its
Richard Eberhart
shelled as butternuts and as difficult to crack, who
communal goodwill and the human values. Here one
Maine Lines
admitted to no superiors on earth. Take them or leave
still thinks of life as life and not as existence."
1970
them, they did not care. They were as they were, and
Henry Beston
proud of it. Their descendants today are exactly like
White Pine and Blue Water
them. There is one aspect of their character, how-
1950
had houses and lands not
1 other Dunnet Landing
ever, that is often overlooked by those who do not
***
n were fathers of families,
know
them
well
[It is] a gnawing passion to be
"Those manners [typical of Maine] are characterized
aces were the sea, and the
better than it is humanly possible to be. The Down
by an essential gentleness, an honesty, a caring for
ts familiar shore, and the
Easter broods overlong on angels, not realizing that
the preservation of a person's dignity, while at the
alt brine from the mackerel
to be concerned with angels in a practical world is
same time he is allowed his independence. Maine
mbers into a state of brown
dangerous."
manners are at once a tolerance and a grace. They are
on. It also affected the old
Louise Dickinson Rich
beautiful, and a wonder to behold."
tions, until one fancied that
State O' Maine
John N. Cole
n it could only be with the
1964
In Maine
modern dart, but the good
***
1974
***
seventeenth century wood-
"Surely I never met such ardent individuals [Maine
Yankees]. I would hate to try to force them to do
"The poorest [considering the cost of living] of the
Sarah Orne Jewett
anything they didn't want to do."
United States is not Mississippi; it's Maine."
Country of the Pointed Firs
John Steinbeck
Joel Garreau
1896
Travels with Charley
The Nine Nations of North America
1962
1981
* *
***
Maine, the land of the bluest
***
"So life remains 'Down East' a little more like what
, the richest air, the strong-
"And the coastal people below the Bristol Channel
it was in the days of the forefathers, when men came
e sturdiest men. the fairest,
are secret people, and perhaps magic people. There's
the truest women under the
aught behind their eyes, hidden away so deep that
to this unknown western world to be free, to win
perhaps even they do not know they have it."
their right to survive by struggle with nature rather
than with their fellow men."
Thomas B. Reed
John Steinbeck
Robert Herrick
Speech at Portland, Maine
Travels with Charley
These United States
Aug. 7, 1900
1962
1924
***
***
which there are some but not
WAY OF LIFE
"Indeed, whatever may be left of that famous old
es, of which there are even
New England, sometimes puritan and always Protes-
W to give the impression that
tant, will be found today more purely and abundantly
yes detached judgments are
"A moose may take it into its head to cross U.S.
here in Maine than elsewhere. The types of faces, the
promising conclusions drawn.
Route 1, but there is no pressure of the tragic,
habits, and the ideas are much like those I remember
se impression, rising from the
crowded, and inescapable mass to confuse and
in the Massachusetts of 30 years ago. It is the last
ination to expose their feel-
smother one about; one does not have to elbow or
stronghold of the Puritan."
first came to the Maine coast,
grasp to remain an individual and a human being.
Robert Herrick
been on guard against unex-
Modern mass pressures, too, of their very selves,
These United States
variety of quarters, including
mean a compulsion towards a nonhuman specializa-
1924
233
MAINE
***
mark the spots where people have lost their lives If
CITIES, TOWNS
"Maine, from her frontier position and severe cli-
motor accidents, so the highways are beginning to
AND REGIONS
mate, has been heretofore regarded as the least fa-
take on the appearance of a cemetery, and motoring
vored of all the states in the Union; while it has the
in Maine has become a solemn experience, when one
Bangor
power to become the great manufacturing and great
thinks mostly about death."
ship-owning state of the confederacy, if not the first
E.B. White
[A comment on Bangor boom t
in point of commercial importance. Our climate and
"Two Letters, Both Open"
that one evening last week,
our geographical position, generally spoken of as our
1951
from the Bangor almshouse, a
misfortunes, are in fact the great elements of our
***
caught early the next morning,
strength. The increased necessities which our climate
"As Maine goes, so goes the nation."
before they were secured, th
imposes upon us, beyond those of a warmer latitude,
American Political Maxim, circa 1888
each, by speculating in timber
are far more than compensated by our superior ca-
pacity for labor, our greater power of endurance, and
Quoted in the M
our extraordinary fondness for exertion. With a more
HISTORY AND POLITICS
extended line of sea-coast than any other state in the
***
Union, and more good harbors than all the other
"There stands the city of Ban
states together, Maine will present at some future
[Quip after only Maine and Vermont went Republi-
Penobscot, at the head of na
can in 1936 presidential election]: "As Maine goes.
day, along her bays and rivers, a line of cities
the larger class, the principal
surpassing those which are now found upon the
so goes Vermont."
continent, with a population C
James Farley, Democratic politician
shores of the English Channel, or Baltic Sea."
a star on the edge of the nig
***
John Poor
forest of which it is built, ali
Petition to the Maine Legislature
"If it were possible for a state to have a split
the luxuries and refinements
1850
personality, that would have to be the diagnosis of
its vessels to Spain, to Eng
***
Maine in the present century Maine is funda
Indies for its groceries-and
mentally fitted for and geared to her original indus-
have gone 'up river,' into 1
"It has been suggested that the wealthy summer
tries of fishing, farming and lumbering
The
way
which feeds it."
people were unintentionally and unwittingly guilty of
of life implicit in these occupations tends to be
a form of insidious corruption, changing a class of
self-sufficient, independent, hardworking individ-
simple, a matter of fairly immediate and discernible
rewards in proportion to the amount of labor and
uals into a group of parasites and lackeys. To a
degree, this may have been true. But surely no one
judgment expended. That's the way since earliest
days that the. people of Maine had lived and
can be blamed for offering opportunity, or for ex-
"June came booming up the
changing a difficult, dangerous, and sometimes im-
thought-in terms of the individual's ability to cope
was on the flood. Every pac
with his natural environment. This demanded cour-
poverished life for one that was easier, more secure
of speculators and potential
age, patience and stamina, but very little subtlety or
and more profitable. All that one had to do to share in
houses and store buildings
sophistication. Late in the 19th century, something
the bonanza was learn to say, 'Yes, sir.'
everywhere under way. The
Louise Dickinson Rich
happened to change this pattern of living. Bar Harbor
to a quagmire as the frost we
was 'discovered.'
State O' Maine
there had been no time nor
Louise Dickinson Rich
1964
level them
The mud tui
State 0' Maine
***
1964
mud again with every rair
hauling lumber and rock an
"It is impossible to be exposed for any length of time
"Maine, existing now [1816] almost as a small.
work churned holes which
to Maine realism and horse sense without effect, and
independent republic [it was part of Massachusetts
fill. Footpaths by the road
most of the summer people find that they go home
until 1816], continued to make such a nuisance of
with a revised set of values."
herself for the next four years that finally both
walks, and in the busy str
that pedestrians picked their
Louise Dickinson Rich
Washington and Massachusetts gave in, perhaps
State O' Maine
from sheer exhaustion. She was admitted to the
stores, forever dodging tea
where they could."
1964
Union as the 23rd state on March 15, 1820, a day
***
celebrated throughout Maine for many years thereaf-
"She [a dog] wears her metal license tag but I must
ter with ceremonies comparable to those of the
say I don't particularly care for it, as it is in the shape
Fourth
of July And I have never heard a native
give the place of his birth as just plain Maine. It
Other Cities and
of a hydrant, which seems to me a feeble gag,
besides being pointless in the case of'a female. It is
always the state o' Maine, with just that proud
Baxter State Park:
hard to believe that any state in the Union would
emphasis."
circulate a gag like that and make people pay money
Louise Dickinson Rich
"I could and should hav
for it, but Maine is always thinking of something.
State O' Main
Maine puts up roadside crosses along the highways to
1964
Park [in northern Maine],
234
ple have lost their lives in
CITIES, TOWNS
too long and it was getting cold and I had visions of
highways are beginning to
Napoleon at Moscow and the Germans at Stalin-
AND REGIONS
a cemetery, and motoring
grad."
lemn experience, when one
Bangor
John Steinbeck
Travels with Charley
E.B. White
[A comment on Bangor boom times]: "It is rumored
1962
"Two Letters, Both Open"
that one evening last week, two paupers escaped
1951
from the Bangor almshouse, and though they were
* *
caught early the next morning, yet in the meantime,
Deer Isle:
; the nation."
before they were secured, they had made $1,800
olitical Maxim, circa 1888
each, by speculating in timber lands."
"One doesn't have to be sensitive to feel the strange-
Newburyport Herald
ness of Deer Isle the pine woods rustle and the
Quoted in the News Weekly Register
wind cries over open country that is like Dartmoor."
POLITICS
1835
John Steinbeck
* * *
Travels with Charley
nd Vermont went Republi-
"There stands the city of Bangor, fifty miles up the
1962
Penobscot, at the head of navigation for vessels of
lection]: "As Maine goes,
the larger class, the principal lumber depot on this
continent, with a population of twelve thousand, like
Portland:
rley, Democratic politician
a star on the edge of the night, still hewing at the
*
forest of which it is built, already overflowing with
"Portland is looking up, and all her spunk
r a state to have a split
the luxuries and refinements of Europe, and sending
Is centered in those noble words-'Grand Trunk:'
ave to be the diagnosis of
its vessels to Spain, to England, and to the West
That iron arm that links Atlantic 'Maine'
ntury
Maine is funda-
Indies for its groceries-and yet only a few axe-men
With Huron's waters in a single chain;
eared to her original indus-
have gone 'up river,' into the howling wilderness
On whose smooth rail the swift, careering steed
and lumbering The way
which feeds it."
Shall cross Victoria Bridge, and onward speed,
occupations tends to be
Henry David Thoreau
Defying time and space,-its journey o'er:
immediate and discernible
The Maine Woods
Shall slake its thirst on the Pacific shore
1 the amount of labor and
1850
While o'er our waters busy steamers ply
at's the way since earliest
*
With flags of every hue, in peaceful harmony;
of Maine had lived and
individual's ability to cope
June came booming up the river, and life in Bangor
A neutral port with every flag unfurled
was on the flood. Every packet brought a new flood
That floats on merchant ships throughout the
nent. This demanded cour-
of speculators and potential citizens, Hundreds
world."
a, but very little subtlety or
of
ne 19th century, something
houses and store buildings and new wharves were
John Poor
battern of living. Bar Harbor
everywhere under way. The streets had been churned
State of Maine (a newspaper)
to a quagmire as the frost went out of the ground, and
Jan. 5, 1858
Louise Dickinson Rich
there had been no time nor inclination to scrape and
level them
State O' Maine
The mud turned to dust and back to
1964
mud again with every rain, and the heavy teams
MARYLAND
[1816] almost as a small,
hauling lumber and rock and brick for construction
was part of Massachusetts
work churned holes which there was never time to
o make such a nuisance of
fill. Footpaths by the roadside were the only side-
our years that finally both
walks, and in the busy streets these disappeared so
achusetts gave in, perhaps
that pedestrians picked their way along in front of the
She was admitted to the
stores, forever dodging teams or carriages, crossing
on March 15, 1820, a day
where they could."
[aine for many years thereaf-
Ben Ames Williams
omparable to those of the
The Strange Woman
I have never heard a native
1943
Capital: Annapolis
rth as just plain Maine. It is
Other Cities and Places
Entered the union (with rank): April 28, 1788 (7)
[aine, with just that proud
State motto: Fatti maschii, parole femine (Manly
Baxter State Park:
deeds, womanly words)
Louise Dickinson Rich
State flower: Black-eyed Susan
State O' Maine
"I could and should have gone on to Baxter State
State bird: Baltimore oriole
1964
Park [in northern Maine], but I didn't. I had dawdled
State song: "Maryland! My Maryland!"
235
THE WHITE HOUSE
WASHINGTON
September 16, 1990
MEMORANDUM
TO:
CHRISS WINSTON
RELEVANT SPEECHWRITERS
RELEVANT RESEARCHERS
FROM:
JENNIFER GROSSMAN
SUBJECT: PRE-ADVANCE
Boston, MA
WHEN:
October 4th, luncheon. POTUS arrives at 12:00 noon, brief (10-15
min) remarks at 12:30.
WHERE: The Westin Hotel, in Boston's Copley Place. The room is large and
modern, fairly nondescript. While the hotel is only 7 years old,
it is in the heart of historic Boston. Across the street is the
old Boston Public Library, across the river are some of our nation's
finest institutes of higher learning (M.I.T., Harvard, etc.) The
hotel is minutes from historic Beacon Hill, and down the street
from the upscale shopping on Newbury Street.
WHAT:
This will be a two-tiered event: first a closed-press reception
with photos (30 mins) then remarks at an open-press luncheon.
The proceeds will benefit MA GOP and Republican gubenatorial
candidate TBD pending this Tuesday's primary. Contenders in primary
are Steve Pierce VS. Bill Weld; Pierce's people were present to
provide campaign material. Someone will intro gub. candidate, who
will in turn intro POTUS. The room in which he will speak holds
830 people, but we don't have a figure yet on atendees.
OTHER:
1)
Teleprompter: YES
2)
Political Affairs contact: Bruce Stebbins x6510
3)
Bostonians are big baseball fans. To note: the Redsocks are 5 or
6 games ahead right now, and famous Fenway Park is not too far
from where POTUS will be speaking.
4)
Lighthearted jocular yet generous Dukakis jokes are feasible.
5)
Pierce VS. Weld polls are close.
6)
If Pierce is gub. candidate, Jordan St. John (at 617/720-1990)
has been suggested to call for anecdotal information. One of
the biggest issues in the campaign will be the economy. While
Dukakis was bragging about the Massachusetts Miracle, Pierce was
calling it a disaster. Pierce is the endorsed candidate for
governor. He's 40 years old, the Minority Leader of the House
of Representatives.
Stamford, CT
WHEN:
October 4th, reception and dinner. POTUS arrives at 6:00 p.m.
for reception, remarks at approximately 6:30.
WHERE: The Stamford Marriott in (you guessed it) Stamford. The room
in which remarks are to be delivered is nothing remarkable.
The hotel is near Long Island Sound (sailing, etc.) and Jai Alai.
WHAT:
This will be a two-tiered event: first a closed press reception
with photos for big donors, then an open press dinner. The
gubenatorial candidate, John Rowland, will intro POTUS. The
modest estimate of atendees: 600. A Rowland campaign video,
which has proved successful in the past, will possibly be adapted
for use prior to the President's remarks to generate excitement.
OTHER:
1)
Teleprompter: YES
2)
Political Affairs contact: Bruce Stebbins x6510
3)
***
POTUS will be operating out of Kennebunkport for entire series
of New England speechs. This circumstance can be used to stress
his ties to the region and perhaps provide "I was just in Kennebunk-
port" anecdotes.
4)
Connecticut is famous for nutmegs--bet you can get a lot of mileage
out of that one.
5)
Business attire
6)
Jack Goldber handles press for Rowland, Mark Brennan is Deputy
Campaign Mgr., and John Mastropietro is Campaign Mgr. Their phone
number: (203) 753-1990.
7)
Rowland has been a congressman since '84, represented on the House
Armed Services Committee, the Veteran's Affairs Committee, the
Select Committee on Intelligence, and the House Republican Task
Force. Was awarded the Distinguished Service Award from the VFW,
the Taxpayer Protection Award from the Watchdogs of the Treasury,
Inc., and the "Clean Air Champion" from the National Sierra Club.
Rowland is a lifelong resident of Connecticut, and is married to
to Deborah Nabhan. Has three children: Kirsten, Robert John, and
Julianne.
8)
Rowland's big issues: Will veto a state income tax (the only
candidate to pledge this) ; will wage a real war on drugs by enacting
the death penalty for drug kingpins; will introduce a comprehensive
plan to reduce state spending; will fight to return traditional
family values to Connecticut.
TALKING POINTS:
1)
Campaign slogan: "Leading the Connecticut Comeback"
2)
CT has no state income tax. Rowland is only candidate to pledge to
veto any attempt to impose one.
3)
Rowland is the only conservative in the race. Lowell Weicker and
Bruce Morrison are liberals.
4)
Rowland is tough on crime, advocating the death penalty for drug
kingpins. (see campaign material).
5)
Rowland has been the most specific on issues, beginning on Jan. 4
and releasing issues positions periodically: WE KNOW WHERE HE STANDS
6)
Rowland is the only native of CT and is a 5th generation state
resident. His grandfather rooted out corruption in Waterbury in the
1930's and sent the mayor and other city officials to jail.
7)
Rowland has NEVER voted for a tax increase.
Burlington, VT
WHEN:
October 5th, reception & breakfast. POTUS arrives at 8:00 a.m. for
reception, remarks at approximately 8:30.
WHERE: The Sheraton Burlington Hotel and Conference Center. The hotel
is new, the hall is large and plain.
WHAT:
First a closed reception for Peter Smith (campaigning for re-
election to Congress) ; 100 camera clicks. Then remarks at a
open press GOP fundraiser breakfast. Two speakers before POTUS,
the second introducing him. 1000 atendees expected. At the
close of remarks, the photo op to be created might incorporate
the dalmation the President gave to the local Willston Fire House
during a Points of Light presidential campaign event. The dog
might also provide the basis for anecdotal material; Jack Lindley,
the former Bush campaign manager in Burlington is a good source
on this, he can be reached at (802) 658-2034.
OTHER:
1)
Teleprompter: YES
2)
Political Affairs contact: Bruce Stebbins x6510
3) **
POTUS will be operating out of Kennebunkport for entire series of
New England speechs. This circumstance can be used to stress his
ties to the region and perhaps provide "I was just in Kennebunkport"
anecdotes.
4)
According to intelligence already gathered, there will be a lot of
demonstrators at the event
perhaps there are jokes that might laug
this off.
5)
Judy Schailor is Pete Smith's Campaign Mgr. (802) 878-9090. Brian
Cosgrove is the Executive Director of the Vermont Republican Party
to be reached at (802) 223-3411 at work and at (802) 223-6596 at hom
6)
Education is Smith's top priority, with the environment coming in
a close second. Regarding education, Schailor informed me that
Smith is a former educator. In fact, he has a M.A. and Ed.D.
from the Harvard U. Graduate School of Education, he was Director
of the Montepelier Education Facility, he founded the Community
College of Vermont and was a Director at Vermont State Colleges.
This reminded me of a quote by Theodore Roosevelt that might prove
appropriate:
"Our progress in educational efficiency must come
from two sources: from the great natural leader who
happens to be an educator, and from the ordinary
citizen who to common sense adds some power of vision
and who realizes the relation of the school to
society "
--Theodore Roosevelt Cyclopedia
7)
Smith just came out of the primary where he beat 60-40 Tim Philbin
to the right. His contender in the general election is of a strange
and dying breed: he is a socialist. Bernie Sanders is a socialist
who has been gaining strength in the polls. He supports Fidel Castro
and has been to Cuba to visit him. Schaillor points out that while
we might joke about Sanders as an anachronism, if we come on too
strong it might sound like red-baiting that is sure to offend.
8)
Vermont has a reputation for "independent thinking."
9)
Vermont has one vote in Congress, it must make that vote count.
10)
Up until only a few years ago, there were more COWS than people
in Vermont. (Peter Smith has worked hard to protect the family farm)
11)
Regarding Smith, it's important to stress his effectiveness: a
freshman congressman who's shown outstanding leadership.
12) *
Rather than a head table, there will be a platform.
13)
Smith's wife's name is Sarah. They have 3 boys.
14)
See campaign material for more info on Smith.
Manchester, NH
WHEN:
October 5th, reception and luncheon. POTUS arrives at 12:00 noon
for VIP reception and photos, then at approximately 12:30 delivers
remarks at general luncheon.
WHERE: Center of New Hampshire Holiday Inn, the room is large and plain,
the hotel is 6 years old. On walk-through it became apparent that
there was a big problem in terms of space, so be on standby as to
event location. George Mandis is the general mgr. of the hotel,
his number is (603) 625-1000. Bush was at this hotel during campaign
in '89, there are probably good anecdotes that came out of this.
WHAT:
This will be a two-tiered event: first a closed-press reception with
photos for VIPs, then remarks at an open press fundraiser luncheon.
A speaker will introduce Congressman Smith, who will in turn intro-
duce POTUS. 930 atendees expected. Photo op at close of remarks
might incorporate New Hampshire's "Old Man in the Mountain" (a
rock outcropping that resembles the profile of an old man, that has
been incorporated into N.H. folklore, and has become a N.H. symbol
of sorts). This symbol might also lend itself to metaphors for spee
OTHER:
1)
Teleprompter: YES
2)
Political Affairs contact: Bruce Stebbins x6510
3) **
POTUS will be operating out of Kennebunkport for entire series of
New England speechs. This circumstance can be used to stress his
ties to the region and perhaps provide "I was just in Kennebunkport"
anecdotes.
4)
Contact Jim Courtovich with Smith for U.S. Senate at (603) 626-4333
or Lisa Stockland, the congressman's press secretary.
5)
Logo of Smith for Senate campaign: 'New Hampshire's Trusted Friend.
Apparently, Congressman Smith is very charismatic, people trust him.
6)
Local issue: Economic slowdown in the region. There are layoffs
everywhere, and unemployment is going up.
7)
The primary was just finished last Tuesday. Smith will
be
running
against former U.S. Senator John Durkin.
8)
Something to keep in mind: Smith supported Kemp in the presidential
primary.
9)
A major issue in the Smith campaign is taxes. Be aware, however,
that Smith publicly distanced himself from POTUS's verbal
concession on taxes.
Another big campaign issue: the environment. Smith supports the
Clean Air Bill and has had impact on this legislation through
Sununu.
10)
In thanking the crowd for the warm reception he's sure to receive,
POTUS might quote the words of another great president on a similar
occasion:
"I am sensibly impressed with your friendly welcome
to the metropolis of New Hampshire and have a
grateful heart for your kind and flattering
congratulations on my election to the presidency."
--George Washington
11)
An original copy of the Bill of Rights is coming to N.H. as part
of a national tour on Oct. 31, 1990.
12)
Wisdom from the pages of a N.H. tourism brochure: "The splash
of cool crystal water as you dive into the shimmering lake
the
stories and laughter around the family picnic table in the
flickering shade of tall trees
the endless, quiet panorama of
mountains, lakes and ponds from a trail high in the verdant hills
Kennebunkport, ME
WHEN:
October 5th, evening reception. POTUS arrives at 6:00 p.m. for
closed press reception and photos, brief (10-15 mins) remarks
at 6:30 at more general, open-press reception.
WHERE:
The Shawmut Inn in Kennebunkport. The closed-press reception will
take place in the Colonial Room, the 6:30 reception and remarks
will take place in the Terrace Room. Note: in the Colonial Room
hangs a picture of a proud-masted square-rigger which serves as
the insignia of the Shawmut Inn. The vessel is of a class which
brough world-wide fame to Kennebunkport. She is a Maine downeaster
a comfortable merchantman and passenger ship of a moderately good
speed, reputed to be among the most seaworthy ships of her day.
The great-grandfather of one of the Inn's former owners, had
been present at the launching of the vessel, the "Frank N. Thayer.'
The ship made her way down the Kennebunkport river, turning
downeast to catch the prevailing wind, and passed right by the
present location of the Shawmut Inn.
The Terrace Room, where POTUS will deliver his remarks, is of
relatively modest size, yet is has a stunning panoramic view
of the water which the President knows SO well.
WHERE (cont. ')
POTUS has spoken at the Inn before, in fact, he spoke there a year
ago, and I have included a copy of his remarks in the attached
material. Beth Cressy, the Shawmut Inn's Deputy Director of Sales,
handled the logistics of his visit there last summer, she can be
reached at (207) 967-3931. He was awarded "Outstanding Cit. of the Yr.'
The Shawmut Inn is a stately, turn of the century inn, which stands
as a tribute to the elegant days of the past. Since its inception in
the late nineteenth century, the Shawmut Inn has been a special part
of Maine tradition. The inn was recently purchased by Boston Real
Estate Developer and Restauranteur Ralph Bruno.
To note: the Bush home at Walker's Point is just down the road from
The Shawmut Inn.
WHAT:
This will be a two-tiered event: first a closed-press reception
(30 mins) with 100 camera clicks for VIPs, then a more general
reception where remarks are to be delivered. The event is a
fundraiser for Governor Mckernan, who is running for re-election.
A speaker will introduce the governor, who will in turn introduce
POTUS. People will be standing; there are 300 expected attendees.
OTHER:
1)
Teleprompter: NO
2)
Political Affairs contact: Bruce Stebbins x6510
3)
Business Attire
4) **
POTUS will be operating out of Kennebunkport for entire series of
New England speechs. This circumstance can be used to stress his
ties to Maine and perhaps provide "I was just at Walker's Point"
anecdotes.
5)
In August, POTUS participated in a golf tournament to benefit McKernan
6)
What makes Maine distictive:
-the long months of cold weather
-the abundance of lobster
-the enjoyment of fishing and boating (POTUS can speak with personal
experience)
-the way people love the land (tie in with environmental issue), the
lush green that goes on forever (probably to be turning into the
beautiful flaming hues of autumn by October)
7)
Contact Sandy Tuttle with McKernan for Governor at (207) 828-1990.
Perhaps Willard Lyeford, who deals with press, will be more helpful
in providing anecdotal information. He' can be reached at the same
number.
8)
The main issues in the McKernan campaign acording to Tuttle: environmente
job training, drugs, and education. Note: McKernan was elected to
one of the national boards of the Governors Association.
9)
John R. McKernan was born May 20, 1948 in Bangor ME. A lawyer who
had served in the State Legislature, he was elected to represent
Maine's 1st Congressional District in the U.S. House of Representative
Re-elected to Congress by a wide margin in '84, he served on the
House Education and Labor Committee, the Merchant Marine and Fisheries
Committee, the Government Operations Committee, and the Select
Committee on Children, Youth and Families. As Congressman, he
received the "Watchdog of the Treasury" award and was endorsed by
the League of Conservation Voters.
McKernan was elected Governor of Maine in '86, the first Republican
Governor in more than two decades. He was active in both the '80
and '84 Reagan-Bush campaigns, and in the '88 Bush-Quayle campaign.
McKernan married Congresswoman Olympia J. Snowe of Maine in Feb. '89
and he has one son, Peter, from a previous marriage.
10)
The '90 gubenatorial race features a hotly contested race between
the incumbent McKernan and Democratic Congressman Joseph E. Brennan,
who served two terms as governor preceding McKernan. McKernan, who
formerly held the congressional seat now occupied by Brennan,
effectively 'switched jobs' with Brennan in '86, when the latter
was barred by law from seeking a third consecutive term as governor.
This aspect has led some political pundits to view the race as a
"championship bout."
SOME RELEVANT EXCERPTS FROM POTUS's SPEECH AT SHAWMUT INN LAST YEAR:
1)
"Well, what a magnificent picture. I'm looking around at this crowd
and I see a few faces old enough to remember that boardwalk that
went along
all the way along Ocean Avenue there."
2)
"
it's a wonderfully warm feeling that we get from all of you, our
neighbors in Kennebunkport and Kennebunk Beach, and, of course,
Kennebunk
"
3)
"
there are some hazards out there. Some of you have been on the
golf course when I play, and that (laughter) and other challenges
One of them now is, we have a fleet of plastic toys that Barbara
bought at some I hope it was a sale. There are many cars and
little scooters and all out there, and it's a hazard to get out of
the front door
"
4)
"And I Barbara put it pretty well that this is a place where we
really enjoy ourselves, but more than that kind of refurbish our
souls and get our batteries all charged up and enjoy life really to
the fullest. It's a point of view. You can feel it in the land
and water here."
5)
"Barbara has told you that I've been coming here every summer since
19 well, I was born in '24. And the only one I missed was the
summer of 1944 when, like many of you, I was in the service. That's
the only time that we missed being here. And there is a certain
magic about the place. Our kids live in five different states
one in Cape Elizabeth, and the others in four different states-
and for them, this is an anchor to windward, because not far from
where this picture was painted (perhaps that of the Frank Thayer
in the Colonial Room, but doublecheck) my mother was born in a house
still standing right there not too far from St. Ann's Church
"
THE WHITE HOUSE
WASHINGTON
Jenifer -
10/2/90
Afewguick notes for you on the joke
Session Lynns I had last night on Maine
Maine is the 5th largest brocolli producer
in the country. Mckenan actually put out
a truque & cheek press release - "Mckernan
breaks W Pres over broe. statement" Be
careful economic though because this is a Fairly big
State. base for the northern party The
cause its The entire top half of The Stake
Proostook county is called "the county" be -
Maybe a rekerence to Iwas up there in
the county and
brocolli
over
They all love LL. Bean but beware Beanjust
laid off 125 workers for the first time in approx.
25 25yrs.
the biggest moose wasj vsb bagged -maybe
Use the Size of that with the size of the
budget deficit OR say someone could
have won a free ticket to The dinner
by guessing The weight of The moose-
Because all have complained wart the
lost of tickets - -always anissue.
Mckernan is aloig ath Lete , loot time
They were highther they played golf -
Maybe give him alitthe job by saying
Ican't beleive I'm track op here again
jaques after all these booqies you pulled
on me last time \ was here. [McR. is
uself depricating man like the Pres.
$
POTUS could easily put down his golfgame]
They all love the Red Sox p They are
battlina for 1st n the
mE TIMES 4/90
CONTINUUM
LTIMATELY, the first term of Gover-
In search
But even if tests accurately tell us what's wrong, they
nor John McKernan will be remem-
don't offer solutions. Those will come from teachers and
bered most for its setting Maine on the
the emerging model curricula, and those changes could
path of massive recycling of household
be implemented more rapidly with gubernatorial under-
waste, not for its difficulties with tax
of leadership
standing and leadership.
revenue shortfalls or other conditions
A second area is transportation. Incredibly, Maine
over which a governor has only marginal control.
has become clogged with traffic and widening highways
In the case of recycling, Governor McKernan pro-
and constructing bypasses and multi-lane bridges isn't
vided real leadership. He did not bow to the naysayers
Three issues
going to solve the problem because we will just be
who have complained for years that the markets aren't
feeding more cars into roads that ultimately cannot
there for recycled waste, that the public isn't willing to
for the upcoming
handle the traffic; and besides, we can't afford to build
make the sacrifices in convenience.
many major bridges at $75 to $100 million each, espe-
Once the clear direction was given, recycling took off
on its own. The debate finally turned from whether it
gubernatorial campaign
cially when we can't afford to maintain the ones we have.
The governor has to tell the Department of Transpor-
could be done to how it would be done, and now there
tation in no uncertain terms that its job is not to build
are indications the governor's initial goals may be sur-
more but to analyze what has happened. Why has traffic
passed.
doubled in the past two decades when population has
Perhaps the governor sensed an underlying public
would suggest the candidates might be forced to state
not? I have some guesses. For instance, there are proba-
consensus, perhaps he was daring, perhaps he was just
positions, in the hope that real differences will appear
bly more cars per family, brought on by the increase in
lucky in his timing; regardless, he set Maine on a course
and leadership will be exhibited.
two-worker households, and by greater affluence. Do
of national leadership.
The first area is education. Joanne Lannin has started
more teenagers drive now? If the first is true, should we
As usual, I am looking for similar signs of leadership,
a series of articles in the Maine Sunday Telegram where
look at how much of the problem is commuter traffic
similar areas in which the next governor would put
she outlines the failure of the educational reform move-
and seek solutions to that? If the second is true, should
Maine out front in creatively solving its problems, in the
ment which began in the last Brennan administration
we raise the driving age?
upcoming campaign between Governor McKernan and
with raised teacher salaries and comparative testing. I
In too many cases we spend millions to solve a
former Governor Joe Brennan.:
would not so much say that educational reform has
transportation problem that has a less costly and more
I am afraid the candidates are going to spend too
failed as that it hasn't really started yet. We are just
environmentally sound alternative.
much time trying to lay blame for the state's current
beginning to reach agreement on goals - the teaching
My third area is resource depletion, especially of the
economic problems without discussing the massive
of problem solving skills rather than memorization. But
ocean fishery. Because no one in particular owns the
reordering of tax burdens that would make the ever-
only now is the debate even being engaged whether one
fishery, no one has had an interest in protecting it.
rising bills less painful to pay.
of the most important tools, statewide standardized
Instead, the pressure is on fishermen to exploit it first,
On the other hand, there are three areas where
I
testing, hinders rather than helps those goals.
to take out what is to be taken before someone else does.
A governor could establish the public interest in
commonly held resources and let us know what is
SHETTERLY
happening and what our options are in preserving those
resources.
These are not the only issues, nor are they necessar-
ily the most important ones. But they are three ex-
amples of areas in which we could force the candidates
to tell us whether they are ready to strike out in new
directions or simply be carried by the political tides
around them.
By Peter W. Cox
BDN, 4
Brennan addresses labor group, attacks McKernan
By Carroll Astbury
the best interests of labor to help
Business Writer
him pass his legislation. "It's the
most important issue facing
Rep. Joseph E. Brennan made
working men and women in this
it clear Friday that an appeal to
"The governor
country today," he said.
organized labor would play a ma-
jor part in his strategy to unseat
ought not to be
Brennan also used the occasion
of his Bangor visit to criticize
Gov. John R. McKernan.
The congressman and former
afraid to step in
McKernan for his handling of the
budget shortfall and the state's
governor was in Bangor to ad-
on issues when
mental health institutes.
dress the Maine Labor Council of
people are losing
The congressman asked the
the United Paperworkers Inter-
paperworkers to put signs on
national Union.
their jobs in a
their lawns, bumper stickers on
Brennan criticized McKernan
their cars, and to appeal to fellow
for not stepping in during the
labor dispute.'
workers to support him in his
strike at International Paper Co.
Rep. Joseph E. Brennan
election bid.
in Jay to help the striking
The union members were a
workers who lost their jobs to re-
friendly audience for Brennan.
placement workers.
By a show of hands, they unani-
"The governor ought not to be
mously voted to urge union orga-
nizations to support the
afraid to step in on issues when
gubernatorial candidate.
people are losing their jobs in a
prevent companies from hiring
Brennan says that his strike
Brennan ended his speech by
labor dispute," Brennan said.
During his governorship, he said,
permanent replacement workers
legislation is an issue of human
saying that the Democratic Par-
for the first 10 weeks of a strike.
he intervened during strikes at
dignity.
ty wasn't perfect, but that it
"Most strikes are resolved dur-
St. Regis and at Boise Cascade.
People involved in labor dis-
"fought all the fights for working
"We have the moral authority
ing that period," he said.
putes are being fired, Brennan
men and women."
About 100 members of Con-
said. "Hiring permanent re-
"It matters to organized labor
to bring people together," he
said. "McKernan doesn't under-
gress, representing 65 million
placement workers is another
to have a friend in the Blaine
stand working men and women."
people, support the legislation,
way of firing people. It's socially
House," he said. And he clearly
After the Jay strike, Brennan
Brennan said. But the bill still is
wrong and socially unjust.
knows that if he is to return to the
Blaine House, labor will be a big
introduced legislation that would
stalled in the Labor Committee.
According to Brennan, it is in
part of the reason.
2
How serious are budget problems facing Maine?
publican governors, Rhode Is.
Pundits ponder
land Gov. Edward D. DiPrete's
popularity has fallen to an all
effect of economy
time low, sparking rumors that
he too may not seek a fourth two-
on governor's race
year term.
New Hampshire's freshman
By John S. Day
Gov. Judd Gregg's standing with
Washington Bureau
voters has plummeted because
of a $160 million budget shortfall.
WASHINGTON - Had the sky fall-
In Maine. McKernan reported-
en, or was Maine's well-publicized
ly has fallen behind Rep. Joseph
budget "crisis" just a case of report-
E. Brennan in recent polls. Bren-
ers, egged on by legislators and spe-
MAINE Gov. John R. McKernan is
Gov. Madeleine Kunin, and Connecti-
nan is giving up his seat in Con-
cial interest groups, not being able to
tell the difference between "a bicycle
cut Gov. William O'Neill are not seek-
gress to seek the governorship
seeking re-election, but Massachu-
again, a post he held from 1978 to
accident and the end of the world?"
setts Gov. Michael Dukakis, Vermont
lng new terms in office. (AP Photos)
1986.
Gov. John R. McKernan suggested
According to veteran State
the bicycle accident analogy as a re-
lysts who monitor state spending,
nors - six Democrats and
House observers, you have to go
buke to the media during a Feb. 7
Maine pulled through its budget prob-
four Republicans - have decided
back to 1969 to find a comparable
address to the Portland Chamber of
lems in better shape than virtually all
to step down at the completion of
period in which state finances SO
Commerce.
their current terms.
dominated the political land-
There was no "crisis," the governor
of the other northeastern states.
And compared to those neighboring
Budget problems were the
scape.
said, just a retrenchment from the
states, the trick was done with little
main factor behind the decisions
That year, former Democratic
dizzying period of economic growth
immediate pain and suffering.
by Democratic Governors Mi-
Gov. Kenneth M. Curtis, bur-
during the 1980s when Maine's total
With some critical help from Demo-
chael Dukakis, Madeleine Kunin
dened by falling revenues, broke
economic output and tax revenues
cratic legislators, McKernan bal-
of Vermont and William O'Neill
his campaign promise of "no
more than doubled.
anced the state's budget without
of Connecticut not to seek reelec-
new taxes" and enacted the state
Three months later, with the dust
massive spending cuts, large state
tion.
income tax. A voter backlash the
finally settled on a bitter legislative
layoffs or new across-the-board taxes
The economic woes destroyed
following year nearly ended Cur-
and without any damage to Maine's
Dukakis' legacy in Massachu-
tis' political career. Curtis won
debate that will be projected into this
fall's gubernatorial campaign, the di-
traditionally sterling credit rating
setts and have threatened to
re-election by just 890 votes out of
mensions of the so-called "budget cri-
with Wall Street bond companies.
short-circuit the Democratic
325,386 cast, the narrowest mar-
He did that at a time when other
presidential aspirations of Gov.
gin in this century.
sis" far more resemble a bike crash
governors in the region resolved simi-
Mario Cuomo of New York, who
Obviously mindful of Curtis
than Armageddon.
lar fiscal difficulties by seeking huge
in recent months has been li-
close escape in the 1970 guberna.
According to several outside ana-
tax increases, or by leaving public of-
kened to Dukakis for failing to
torial campaign, McKernar
fice before they had to confront the
curb government spending while
clung stubbornly to his own "no
running up a $1 billion deficit.
tax hike" pledge throughout the
anger of voters.
Nationwide, ten incumbent gover-
Among the region's three Re-
Legislature's three and a hall
month debate on how to cope
with a projected $210 million rev-
enue shortfall.
The governor's political aides
describe the recently completed
legislative session as a chess
contest with Democratic leaders,
with the outcome of the game
General Fund Appropriations
possibly determining whether
A lowered rate of increase in state spending
Maine's first Republican gover-
nor in 20 years would be ousted
When a sluggish Maine economy kept revenue
after a single term.
collections below estimates, the currently debated
Last year, Democrats pressed
McKernan to spend down or re-
budget shortfall developed.
bate to the taxpayers a S163 mil-
For example, during fiscal 1989. the state spent $1.42
lion budget surplus despite clear
indications that the region's
billion of general fund money. Under Governor
economy had begun to slow.
Had he done that. McKernan
McKeman's initial plan for 1990, spending would have
would have been painted into a
increased 12%. With lowered revenues, however, that
corner like Dukakis and forced to
raise taxes and make unpopular
spending level has been revised to an increase of
cuts in state programs.
only 7%.
Instead of spending down the
up 5%
surpius, McKernan scaled back
(Initial projection: up 6%)
state spending by $100 million.
That fiscal prudence. he
in millions
up 7%
claimed. saved Maine from a
(Initial projection: up 12%)
major tax hike during this year.
$1,800
It also rescued McKernan from a
"broken-promise" tax contro-
$1,600
up 19%
versy like the one that nearly de-
feated Curtis two decades ago.
$1,400
"The same people who carped
up 10%
at me for not seeing this coming
accused me of wanting to build a
$1,200
up 11%
huge budget surplus last year SO
I could spend it during the elec-
$1,000
tion year," McKernan said.
"Had we not built up the sur-
plus in 1989. we'd be looking at a
$800
$300 million revenue shortfall
this year
and I doubt we could
$600
have handled that without a tax
$400
$200
$0
1986
1987
1988
1989
1990
1991
Actual spending
Initial projection
NEWS/Zelz
and currently faces an estimated
"Maine is better off than most
"The things that we are for
tic than Maine in projecting that
revenue shortfall of $125 million.
of their neighbors in New Eng-
land," said Ronald Snel!, pro-
ing at. Hochman said, "is
the growth of their future tax
revenues would continue to ex
McKernan contrasted his han-
varying responses by the state
gram director for the National
iling of Maine's revenue prob-
to changing circumstances
ceed the national average.
Conference of State Legisla-
Those other states were
ems with that of the newly
Massachusetts, for example.
tures.
Massachusetts, New Hampshire
elected Democratic governor of
The good news is that Standard
SEE no response Maine's init:
Vermont and Rhode Island, all 01
New Jersey, Jim Florio, who
& Poors and Moody's view
response has been to take son
which are currently mired ir
served with McKernan and Bren-
action."
Maine's fiscal problems, at least
budget disasters.
an in the U.S. House of Repre-
Maine's projected revenu
for the time being, as "managea-
The fifth was South Carolina
sentatives.
shortfall amounted to just und
ble." Both Wall Street firms cur-
where the disaster was Hurri
McKernan and Florio both
rently rank Maine in the top
7 percent of the state's $3.1 billing
cane Hugo, not overly optimistic
campaigned for governor on
echelon of states with sound fis-
biennium budget. That percen
revenue estimates, Hovey said.
promises not to increase taxes.
age was slightly below those CO
cal management and see no im-
Both former congressmen inher-
fronting New Hampshire a!
ted state governments that ex-
mediate reason to change that
Vermont, and slightly high
perienced record growth during
classification.
than the shortfalls projected 1.
the 1980s. During the past de-
Wise explained why Wall
Massachusetts and New York
cade, New Jersey was often de-
Street continues to have faith in
McKernan's credibility C
scribed as one of the best-run
states like Maine even though
state budget-making was hu:
state governments in the
their projected budget deficits
when Peat Marwick. an indeper
country.
are comparable on a percentage
dent consulting firm hired by 11
A few days after taking office,
basis to the current fiscal crisis
governor to come up with mor
though, Florio discovered that
that has paralyzed Massachu-
accurate revenue estimates
his state faced a $300 million bud-
setts' state government. which
first projected a 567 million re:
get deficit. The shortfall has
one analyst termed the "the
enue shortfall and then, only
since climbed to $550 million.
worst-run state in the United
days later, increased the esti
On Mar. 14, just four months
States of all the state govern-
mate to $210 million.
after promising not to increase
ments since World War II."
Those huge projected short
taxes, Florio announced that he
"The difference is that some
falls came only one year after the
would seek a $1.4 billion tax in-
(states) continued to overspread
governor and Legislature com
crease. by far, the largest in New
during bad economic times
peted with each other to return
Jersey's history.
tens of millions of dollars of sur
Was the state's budget crisis
Based on our observations of
plus revenues to the taxpayer
just a "bicycle accident?"
Maine, state leaders there have a
with a series of rebate plans.
'(Maine's problems) were
history of being able to bite the
Dr. Harold A Hovey, president
more like a car accident with an
bullet. It seems to me that they
of State Policy Research. an
air bag," said Jan Wise, senior
have the political resolve to solve
Alexandria, Va., which publishe
vice president for Standard &
(budget problems) in a more ex-
a newsletter on state financial is
Poors Corp., the Wall Street firm
peditious manner," Wise said.
sues. was not surprised that the
that measures the states' fiscal
Maine is one of nine states
bottom fell out of McKernan's
health for bond investors. Be-
whose bonds are rated AAA -
revenue projections.
cause of a willingness by the gov-
the highest possible rating - by
Governors from the northeast-
ernor and Legislature to confront
Standard & Poors. New York re-
ern states. he said, saw their
the problem. Wise said, "it was
cently was downgraded to an A
economies outperform the na-
not as bad as it could have been."
rating, the third lowest among
tional average of all states dur
"The shortfalls are substantial
the 41 states that issue bonds.
ing the 1980s and believed that
- on a percentage basis about
Massachusetts, which was
the trend would continue into the
the same as those in Massachu-
dropped by Standard & Poors to
1990s.
setts and New York - but they
BBB, is the lowest of all states.
What happened in the North
are not overwhelming if prompt
Under Moody's system. 11 of
east, said Hovey, is not "part of a
action is taken. (However) I'd
the 41 states rated by Wall Street
nationwide disaster Basically
say it's a little more than a bicy-
are put in the AAA category.
it's a regional problem that a [....
cle accident," said Stephen
Three, including Maine, made
other states have blundered
Hochman of Moody's Investment
the next highest rung. AAL.
into."
Services. the other national
Massachusetts is last. with a BB
According to Hovey, only five
bond-rating firm.
rating.
other states were more optim
would go up an additional 5 per-
was not a case of legislatures and
increase." he claimed.
cent in 1991, instead of 6 percent.
governors wildly spending wind-
House Speaker John Martin
Rather than the cumulative,
fall tax revenues.
and Senate President Charles
25-percent increase in state
Federal cutbacks during the
Pray saw the battle in a different
spending for 1990 and 1991 ori-
Reagan years and new congres-
light. The governor's great es-
ginally proposed by McKernan,
sional mandates on everything
cape plan, the Democratic
expenditures will climb by 19
from environmental regulations
leaders claimed, was just a
percent over the biennium bud-
to health insurance programs,
transparent attempt to shift the
get period, still a substantial in-
according to Martin, effectively
burden of his own faulty revenue
crease.
shifted a $50 billion-per-year fi-
estimates onto the property tax.
To produce the flatter curve in
nancial burden from Washington
McKernan's proposed $31.5
state spending, McKernan rec-
to the state capitals.
million reduction in state aid to
ommended and the Legislature
The surge of early retirements
local schools set off an uproar
agreed to future cuts totaling
by the Northeast region's belea-
that was only resolved when for-
$128 million out of a $3.1 billion
guered governors is no surprise
mer Democratic Rep. Bonnie
two-year budget. The spending
to Larry Sabato. a professor of
Post, who used to chair the Legis-
cuts forced the elimination of 90
government at the University of
lature's Taxation Committee,
state jobs, and the freezing on
Virginia who follows governors
suggested a one-time accounting
new hires for an additional 300.
closely.
change that defused the contro-
To put things in perspective,
"When a region is in trouble
versy by freeing up an additional
there are approximately 15,000
economically, governors are
$12.5 million for towns and cities.
state employees.
simply encouraged to retire.
The compromise was hardly a
During the 1980s, the North-
They get tired of the burdens and
political tour de force said Maine
east's governors rode the re-
also realize they might be defeat-
Democratic Chairwoman Keron
gion's wave of prosperity to new
ed. They don't want to go out that
Kerr who called McKernan's ad-
political heights. A torrent of
way," he said.
ministration "the most incompe-
new tax revenues enabled Maine
"It's easy to be governor when
tent
in modern Maine history'
to increase its levels of state
the tax revenues are pouring in,'
for taking state taxpayers on a
spending by an average of 11.9
said McKernan. "The real test
wild "financial roller coaster."
percent per year during the last
(of leadership) is what you can
Ultimately, the governor and
decade, an annual increase more
do to help people get through a
Legisiature adopted a politically
than double the rate of inflation.
period of sluggish economic
expedient compromise that, Cri-
Martin, whose position as
growth."
tics charged, merely shifted the
president-elect of the National
The fact that McKernan came
impact of falling state revenues
Conference of State Legislatures
out of the state's long budget de-
into next year's budget year,
gives him a wide view of state
bate without needing new taxes
thereby postponing the day of
finances, said that the huge in-
is the exception, not the rule in
reckoning for candidates of both
creases in state expenditures
the region.
parties until after the fall elec-
was not a case of legislatures and
According to the National Gov-
tions.
governors wildly spending wind-
ernor's Association, 22 governors
The compromise package of
fall tax revenues.
have proposed tax increases this
$63 million in revenue increases
During the 1980s, the North-
year totaling $4.9 billion to re-
- a tax amnesty plan, Lotto
east's governors rode the re-
solve budget problems parallel-
America and Post's one-time ac-
gion's wave of prosperity to new
ing those in Maine. That comes
counting change - does appear
political heights. A torrent of
on the heels of tax increases by 27
as gimmick-ridden as the budget
new tax revenues enabled Maine
states during 1989, according to
agreements that come out of ne-
to increase its levels of state
1
the NGA.
gotiations between the White
spending by an average of 11.9
Maine and Connecticut, which
House and Congress during elec-
percent per year during the last
raised taxes by $1 billion in 1989,
tion years.
decade, an annual increase more
were the only states in the north-
than double the rate of inflation.
The compromise would merely
slow state expenditures, from a
Martin, whose position as
east that are entering the 1990s
projected 12 percent increase in
president-elect of the National
without huge new tax increases
Conference of State Legislatures
on the horizon, the NGA's survey
the 1990 budget to only a 7 per-
concluded. Even with a $1 billion
cent increase enacted by the gov-
gives him a wide view of state
finances, said that the huge in-
tax increase last year, Connecti-
ernor and Legislature. Spending
creases in state expenditures
cut still is not out of the woods
Dailo News
JULY 21 - 22, 1990
76 PAGES-$1.00
McKernan
announces
budget surplus
AUGUSTA (AP) - Gov.
John R. McKernan, pro-
claiming "we did it," un-
veiled a fiscal 1990 surplus of
$3.6 million Friday.
But the governor's top bud-
get adviser, Finance Com-
missioner H. Sawin Millett,
said the surplus could shrink
by another $1.3 million or so
if more money is needed to
fund the latest round of state
employee contracts or to
make up for a shortfall in the
effort to generate $15 million
in savings through voluntary
work force reductions.
Nonetheless, McKernan
predicted that his announce-
ment would leave Demo-
cratic critics "very
disappointed."
"We did it. "
Still, as McKernan called
the slim surplus "good
I Gov. John R. McKernan
news," he conceded that "all
this really means is that we're
make sure that everybody knew
pretty much on target with
it." he said following a State
where we had said we would be."
House news conference, "be-
"Now given Democrats' con-
cause we were sure that some-
stant criticism," he added, "that
body would be criticizing us for
turns out to be a bigger deal than
something."
it would be in a normal year
Tax receipts and other General
when people are acting
Fund revenues for the year that
responsibly.
"And that's why we wanted to
See McKERNAN on Page 3
MAINE WEEKEND-Bangor Daily News, Sat.-Sun., July 21 22, 1990 3
McKernan announces 1990 budget surplus of $3.6 million
from page 1
the package, which was designed
ended on June 30 fell just less
to offset a $210 million revenue
than 0.2 percent, or $2.4 million,
"Governor McKernan
shortfall, will fail to generate
below the administration's re-
enough money to bridge the gap.
"It is time to stop govern-
vised projections, closing out
proclaimed 'we did it' when
The speaker, who was away
near $1.4 billion, McKernan said.
ment by denial and to admit
he announced his budget
from the State House, issued a
Unspent balances from various
prepared statement declaring,
that the state is in serious
budget lines produced the small
figures today. Well, he did
"It is time to stop government by
surplus.
denial and to admit that the state
financial trouble."
Total new revenue collections
do it. It's his budget. And it's
is in serious financial trouble."
for the year were down slightly
a mess."
Other Democratic leaders also
more than $52 million, or 3.7 per-
met with reporters to counter
House Speaker John L. Martin
cent, from fiscal 1989, adminis-
- Rep. Joseph E. Brennan
McKernan's perspective.
tration figures showed.
McKernan backers started the
Administration officials said
day just as prepared to answer
the fiscal 1990 surplus would be
people have less to spend, they
islative majority. But, on
the critical Democratic com-
year reached almost $55 million,
ures to end debate over the state
separate from about $57 million
don't have more to give state
Friday, the shared credit - or
ments with a message of their
23 percent below projections and
of Maine's finances.
in previously accumulated sur-
government in taxes.
blame - for the package was ig-
own.
almost $36.7 million less than last
Heading into the last three
pluses already budgeted and car-
McKernan's immediate turn
nored by the conflicting analysts.
"The color of the day is black,"
year.
months of the gubernatorial
ried forward into the current,
toward politics matched a Demo-
McKernan dismissed Demo-
said State Planning Office Direc-
In a statement issued from his
campaign, he said, "I'm sure
second year of the biennium,
cratic counterattack that was
cratic involvement in the accom-
tor Richard Silkman nonchalant-
campaign office, Brennan made
that there'll be a major debate
which runs through June 1991.
mounted even in advance of his
plishments he heralded, saying
ly, making reference to
apparent reference to the admin-
every month when (the) revenue
As expected, McKernan used
announcement.
in a prepared statement that
McKernan's success in closing
istration's use of previously ac-
figures are released."
his Friday news conference to
House Speaker John L. Martin,
many of his critics "did nothing
out the fiscal year "in the black.
cumulated surpluses, similar to
He also said, "Now what we
deliver an upbeat message about
D-Eagle Lake, belittled McKer-
to help solve our fiscal
For the 12 months ended on
the $57 million being carried for-
have to do is turn the psychology
his managerial performance,
nan's surplus as the product of
which has been subject to steady
problems."
June 30, sales and use tax re-
ward in the current fiscal year,
around in the state" and per-
"accounting gimmicks.
ceipts totaled slightly more than
in charging that "the McKernan
suade consumers that the eco-
attack by Rep. Joseph E.
A package of biennial budget
Martin, meanwhile, ignored
$480 million, 0.7 percent below
administration spent $106 million
nomic slump has "bottomed
Brennan.
revisions put into law earlier this
the role of the Democrats in ap-
projections and about $8.2 mil-
more than it took in" during fis-
out."
"Unlike our New England
year was developed in a complex
proving the supplemental budget
lion less than the previous year.
cal 1990.
A Republican lawmaker active
neighbors," McKernan said, "we
set of compromise negotiations
and reiterated the majority par-
Individual income tax receipts
"Governor McKernan pro-
in campaign fund-raising for
did not impose new taxes to solve
between the Republican admin-
ty's post-adjournment com-
for fiscal 1990 amounted to near-
claimed 'we did it' when he an-
McKernan, Rep. Judith C. Foss
our budget woes because, when
istration and the Democratic leg-
plaints that key components of
ly $551.2 million, 3.5 percent
nounced his budget figures
of Yarmouth, used similar lan-
above revised projections but
today. Well, he did do it. It's his
guage in praising the governor's
still about $13 million less than in
budget. And it's a mess," Bren-
expressed interest in boosting
fiscal 1989.
nan said.
consumer confidence pro-
Corporate income tax collec-
McKernan said he did not ex-
moting a more positive "psychol-
tions for the most recent fiscal
pect the release of the 1990 fig-
ogy" about the state economy.
BON, 3.15,both
Political observers say labor issues
important in state gubernatorial race
By John S. Day
Also, he said, the shrinking political clout of unions
Washington Bureau
has caused members of Congress to pay less atten-
tion to labor's agenda. Maine could be an excep-
WASHINGTON — Maine's gubernatorial elec-
tion to that trend. Business analysts, de Bernardo
tion this fall could be labor's "last hurrah" on the
said, are increasingly "perceiving Maine to be
issue of replacement workers.
hostile toward employers."
Business and labor observers here are eager to
"It has the worst state Worker's Compensation
see whether Rep. Joseph E. Brennan can success-
law in the country, the worst plant-closing law and
fully exploit the replacement worker question in
arguably the worst drug-testing law from the
his campaign to unseat Gov. John R. McKernan.
standpoint of employers, de Bernardo said.
The Maine governor's race, they said, will be
Despite a settlement of the International Paper
one of the few in the country where the issue could
Co. strike, only 139 of the 1,250 former company
have a significant impact. Among those watching
employees have been rehired, according to Brad
will be many members of Congress, who to date
Peters, a spokesman for the company. The Jay
have shown only lukewarm enthusiasm about get-
mill is mostly run by 1,039 replacement workers,
ting involved in the labor-management
who were guaranteed they would not be sacked
controversy.
when the strike ended as reward from crossing
The combination of Brennan and a Democratic-
picket lines.
controlled state Legislature, according to Mark de
Prodded by labor, the Legislature passed a law
Bernardo, director of the National Chamber of
that would have prohibited the use of replacement
Commerce's Labor Law Action Center, would be a
workers to break a strike. McKernan vetoed the
signal to national corporations that Maine was
measure, declaring that government should re-
drifting into one of the country's worst "anti-busi-
main neutral in collective bargaining disputes
ness" environments.
between labor and management. Although
Charles O'Leary, head of Maine's AFL-CIO,
McKernan later signed a less restrictive measure
said that a Brennan gubernatorial campaign
that would have required companies to wait 45
which focused on labor themes might signal a turn
days before hiring replacement workers, the
away from the anti-union policies of the Reagan
Maine Supreme Judicial Court concluded that the
years that tilted the collective bargaining
state law could not supersede federal legislation.
'playing field" substantially in favor of
The Maine court verdict threw the replacement
management.
worker issue into Congress' lap, where there has
Nationwide, the percentage of union members in
been little action, despite the fact that the national
the country's overall work force declined from
AFL-CIO has made prohibition of replacement
around 30 percent in the 1970s to only 16.4 percent.
workers their top legislative priority.
In Maine, the percentage of union workers
dropped from 20.3 percent in 1980, to 14 percent by
1988. State unions lost more than 4,000 members
during the Reagan years.
Legislation that would outlaw the use of perma-
nent replacement workers, or delay their hiring
during a "cooling-off" period, has been introduced
in both the House and Senate. But congressional
aides report that the bills are on a slow track to
nowhere.
De Bernardo said the chances of a replacement
worker bill passing Congress "are very slim."
Services of Mead Data Central
PAGE
1
The Associated Press Political Service 1990
RACE: White
BIOGRAPHY:
John R. McKernan Jr. was born in Bangor, Maine, and resides in Augusta. He
was a star basketball player in high school. He received a bachelor's degree in
government in 1970 from Dartmouth College, and a law degree from the University
of Maine in 1974. He served in the Maine Army National Guard, 1970-73. He
practiced law. He was elected to the Maine House in 1972, while still in law
school, was re-elected in 1974, serving as assistant minority leader in 1975-76.
He did not seek another term in 1976. McKernan headed President Ford's 1976
election campaign in Maine. He was elected to the U.S. House in 1982 and was
re-elected in 1984. McKernan was elected governor of Maine in 1986. McKernan is
married to U.S. Rep. Olympia Snowe and has one son from a previous marriage.
PROFILE:
McKernan is the consummate contemporary politician, with boyish good looks, a
relaxed public speaking manner and a penchant for staging events tailored for
the evening news. He left the Congress in 1986 after two terms and ran for
governor in 1986. He captured the office given up by Democrat Joseph E. Brennan
who was banned by the state constitution from serving a third consecutive term.
Brennan, in turn, ran for the U.S. House that year and was elected to the seat
given up by McKernan. In 1990, Brennan announced that he would challenge
The Associated Press Political Service 1990
McKernan for his old office and each began taking swipes at the other's record.
"We've done more in the last four years than was done in the prior eight to
protect what is 50 special about Maine." McKernan said as he launched his bid
for re - election. He contended that his administration had done more to
protect the environment, help working families and combat illegal drugs than his
predecessor and would-be successor. McKernan cited the creation of the Bureau
of Intergovernmental Drug Enforcement which he said had made the drug trade "bad
business in this state." He also credited his administration's policies with
shrinking the disparity between "the two Maines," the fast-growing southern
region and the economically sluggish northern and eastern sections. Turning to
Maine's fiscal problems, McKernan claimed that the state had responded to an
expected downturn in the economy with less impact on taxpayers than neighboring
states. "We are the only state in the Northeast that has a balanced budget and
that did it without raising taxes," he said. He listed new controls on
real-estate development, a trash reduction and recycling program, and a plan to
remove the Kennebec River dam in Augusta by the end of the decade as examples of
important environmental initiatives advanced by his administration. McKernan,
who is a lanky 6 foot 3, earned letters in high school basketball and once
harbored dreams of joining the Boston Celtics. Although his friends call him
"Jock," the nickname has nothing to do with his athletic prowess. He received
the moniker the day he was born, in memory of his parternal grandfather, a
Scottish immigrant. When McKernan was 15, his father died of a heart attack
LEXIS® NEXIS® LEXIS® NEXIS R
Services of Mead Data Central
PAGE
2
The Associated Press Political Service 1990
and his mother took over the family-owned weekly newspaper in order to put her
two sons through college. In 1989, after a decade-long romance behind the
scenes, McKernan married Rep. Olympia Snowe, a member of Congress since 1979.
McKernan said he and Snowe, both leaders of Maine's Republican Party, hoped
their marriage would bring "happiness and fulfillment to our personal lives,
just like we have had over the years in our professional lives."
PRIOR-CAMPAIGNS:
McKernan was elected governor of Maine in 1986 with 40 percent of the vote,
defeating Democrat James E. Tierney, Maine's attorney general. Before becoming
governor, McKernan was elected to the U.S. House in 1982, with 50.3 percent of
the vote and was re-elected with 63 percent in 1984. McKernan served two terms
in the Maine House.
TELEPHONE: To reach John R. McKernan Jr. or his aides in Augusta, Maine, call
(207) 289-3531.
LEVEL 1 - 3 OF 52 STORIES
Copyright (c) 1990 Gannett Company Inc.
USA TODAY
September 11, 1990, Tuesday, FINAL EDITION
SECTION: NEWS; Pg. 3A
LENGTH: 168 words
HEADLINE: New England governors find that times are tough
BODY:
A new political malady: ''New England governor's disease,' says Norman
Cummings of the National Republican Committee.
The symptoms have spread from Connecticut to Maine: rising unemployment,
falling real estate prices and dwindling state tax revenues.
Some causes: New England's high-tech computer and semiconductor firms were
hit hard by military cutbacks and competition from Japan and Korea.
LEXIS® ® NEXIS® ® LEXIS® ® NEXIS®
Services of Mead Data Central
PAGE
3
(c) 1990 USA TODAY, September 11, 1990
The political fallout: Three Democratic governors - Michael Dukakis of
Massachusetts, Madeleine Kunin of Vermont and William O'Neill of Connecticut -
all are retiring rather than seeking reelection.
And three GOP governors - John McKernan Jr. of Maine, Edward DiPrete of
Rhode Island and Judd Gregg of New Hampshire - face potentially tough re -
election campaigns.
Gregg appears to be the safest. DiPrete was forced last May to ask for a
sales tax hike - normally an anathema to Republicans. And in Maine, McKernan's
critics say he may be delaying budget cuts or tax hikes until after the
election.
SUBJECT: GOVERNOR; UNEMPLOYMENT; TAX; HOUSING
NOTES: Accompanies; Bay State political plot thickens; Lt. gov quits race,
budget cuts stay
LEVEL 1 - 17 OF 52 STORIES
Copyright (c) 1990 Reuters
The Reuter Library Report
August 21, 1990, Tuesday, BC cycle
LENGTH: 408 words
HEADLINE: BUSH FOCUSES ON GOLF RATHER THAN GULF
BYLINE: By Irwin Arieff
DATELINE: KENNEBUNKPORT, Maine, Aug 21
KEYWORD:
GULF-BUSH
BODY:
President George Bush went golfing for dollars on Tuesday, playing to raise
funds for the re - election campaign of Maine's Republican Governor John
McKernan.
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LEVEL 1 - 38 OF 52 STORIES
Proprietary to the United Press International 1990
March 25, 1990, Sunday, BC cycle
SECTION: Regional News
DISTRIBUTION: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island,
Vermont
LENGTH: 756 words
BYLINE: By ARTHUR FREDERICK
DATELINE: AUGUSTA, Maine
KEYWORD: ME-BUDGET
BODY:
Gov. John R. McKernan, whose re - election bid is already plagued by a
$230 million state budget shortfall, must also come to terms with a swelling
tide of local communities which claim his fiscal policies are placing an unfair
burden on local budgets.
Proprietary to the United Press International, March 25, 1990
The tide of local opposition began in Freeport, where the town council voted
in early March to try to organize communities statewide to oppose some of
McKernan's budget-cutting proposals, especially one to cut state aid to
education. That cut alone could leave local cities and towns scrambling for ways
to make up the difference in their local school budgets.
The Freeport Council passed a resolution opposing the budget cuts and wrote
to the councils of Maine's other communities, urging them to join a statewide
effort to influence budget policies in Augusta, the state capital.
Community leaders banded together in an enthusiastic coalition, which has
snowballed into a political power in just a few weeks.
Members of the new, unnamed statewide community group were at the State
House last week to drum up support for a local sales tax to supplement revenues
in cities and towns.
According to Freeport Councilor Kirk Goddard, the Freeport Council was as
upset with the Democrat-controlled Legislature as it was with the Republican
McKernan, even though McKernan seems to be taking most of the heat from the
local officials.
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Proprietary to the United Press International, March 25, 1990
'This started as a group of individuals who were frustrated with the
proposals of the governor as well as by the legislators,' Goddard said. ''The
issue seems to be a political football, a politicized issue that has become
Democrat versus Republican, and I don't see much resolution of our problem at
the local level.
The budget debate has taken on strong political overtones, as McKernan faces
the biggest challenge of his career.
Former Gov. Joseph E. Brennan, a popular Democrat who completed two terms as
governor in 1986, is running for the Blaine House after spending four years in
Washington as the congressman from Maine's 1st Congressional District.
With the budget problems facing McKernan this year, Brennan has at least an
even-money chance of defeating McKernan this fall, many political observers
believe. Ironically, Brennan and McKernan switched jobs in 1986, when Brennan
captured McKernan's old House seat and McKernan moved into the governorship.
The state constitution prevents anyone from serving more than two
consecutive terms as governor, but the law does not prevent Brennan from seeking
the Blaine House now that he has sat out for a term.
Proprietary to the United Press International, March 25, 1990
At the State House, the community group sought support for a local 1 percent
sales tax that could be added to the state's 5 percent sales tax. McKernan
quashed the effort quickly, however, indicating he would not support it.
McKernan said he might support some kind of local option tax if the local
leaders and the legislature could come up with an idea he liked.
''If they are expecting me to champion this, they are looking at the wrong
person, McKernan said. ''If I felt it was necessary, I would have proposed
it.''
Goddard said more towns have joined the effort since McKernan shot down the
sales tax proposal, and he said the group would come up with some other proposal
in the near future.
''We decided we will not end it at this point, he said. ''It is our
intention to continue.
Willis Lyford, McKernan's press secretary, said the governor does not object
to efforts to come up with some kind of local tax. But he indicated the group
might get farther if it organized local people to bring pressure to bear on the
Democrat-controlled Legislature.
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Proprietary to the United Press International, March 25, 1990
(McKernan) has said he will support a local option tax as long as it is
structured appropriately,' Lyford said. ''One thing he has made clear to the
communities is if they want to get something through, then they should be able
to marshal support in the Legislature.'
Whatever happens, the McKernan administration believes that local
communities will have to shoulder some of the responsiblility for dealing with
the budget crunch. Lyford said local cities and towns will have to control their
own spending, even if some additional tax dollars are found.
There is going to be an additional burden and tough decisions will have to
be made, Lyford said. (Local communities) will have to decide just how they
are going to restrain growth in their property taxes. The best decisions are
made closest to the people who are being taxed.'
LEVEL 1 - 41 OF 52 STORIES
Proprietary to the United Press International 1990
February 4, 1990, Sunday, BC cycle
SECTION: Regional News
DISTRIBUTION: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island,
Vermont
LENGTH: 978 words
HEADLINE: Kennebec River fisheries restoration cited
BYLINE: By ARTHUR FREDERICK
DATELINE: AUGUSTA, Maine
KEYWORD: ME-DAM
BODY:
Gov. John McKernan's bid to restore Atlantic salmon and other fish to the
Kennebec River by carving a hole in the ancient Edwards Dam has triggered a
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Proprietary to the United Press International, February 4, 1990
fierce debate --- both over his plan and his motives.
McKernan has proposed carving a huge hole in the dam to open the Kennebeck
River from the Atlantic all the way to Waterville --- 70 miles away - for the
first time since 1837.
He shocked legislators Jan. 25 when he announced in his annual State of the
State address he was working on plans to destroy or breach the dam, which now
produces 3.5 megawatts of electricity, enough to provide power to about 1,500
homes.
The debate over the fate of the dam is expected to draw the attention of
environmentalists, developers and others from across the country, because
experts believe it could be the first time a functioning hydroelectric dam on an
American river has ever been breached.
The governor said he had been considering the idea for several months, but
no one outside his office was aware of the secret plan until his state address.
Environmentalists and others hailed McKernan's announcement, saying it was a
bold stroke that could help return the Kennebec to its status as a premier
source of Atlantic salmon and other fish.
Proprietary to the United Press International, February 4, 1990
But Democrats lashed out at the Republican governor, calling the plan
nothing more than a political move aimed at attracting sportsmen, fishermen and
environmentalists to his campaign for re - election against a tough Democratic
challenger, former Gov. Joseph E. Brennan.
Whatever McKernan's motives, his staff is clearly pleased about the idea
of breaching the dam, and pleased about the political fallout that has already
begun.
There has been wholehearted endorsement from all sorts of people in the
environmental community,' said Willis Lyford, McKernan's press secretary. ''I
think the Democrats had hoped to paint McKernan as an anti-environmentalist. but
this makes it clear that McKernan is strong on environmental issues.'
Not everyone is happy.
McKernan's plan has its detractors, particularly among city officials in
Augusta, where the dam is located. City officials were working on a plan of
their own to take over and re-develop the dam, boosting its electrical output
from 3.5 to 18 megawatts. The city thought its plan could mean as much as
$800,000 in added annual revenue to the city.
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Proprietary to the United Press International, February 4, 1990
' 'We are unanimous in opposing the governor's blatant and bizarre attempt,
said Patrick Paradis, a state representative from Augusta. ''This is a less than
well-thought-out plan.
Up the river, Waterville officials are thrilled. Breaching Edwards Dam would
open the Kennebec all the way from Waterville to the ocean, and Waterville
officials see the plan as a bonanza, with fishing and other recreational and
tourism benefits.
Judy Kany, a Waterville state senator and former mayor, said she supports
McKernan's plan because of its benefits to all of Maine.
Before 1837, the Kennebec River fishery was known worldwide, with Kennebec
River salmon gracing the tables of Europe, Kany said. ''The sturgeon were huge
and heavily laden with roe, or cavier. It was a very special fishery.
'As far as I am concerned, the private special interests have benefited
from the dam since 1837, and getting rid of that little old dam would open up 17
miles of free flowing river and tributaries that could be used for spawning.
William Vail, Maine's commissioner of inland fisheries and wildlife, is
equally enthusiastic about McKernan's plan. He said fisheries experts have
your
Proprietary to the United Press International, February 4, 1990
always been upset about how the dam has damaged the Kennebec.
I have some historical records on the river and they are pretty exciting
to read, Vail said. ''I have a commissioner's report from 1870 in which he
discusses the problems with the Edwards Dam. ''Its owners in those days were
reluctant to provide a fish ladder, and it had a terrible impact on the resource
back then.
'That dam has been an impediment, a virtual barrier, for more than 150
years, he said.
more
The Edwards Dam was controversial even when it was built a half-mile north of
Augusta's business district to provide water power to industries located along
the river's edge.
The Legislature approved a charter for the Kennebec Dam Co. in 1834, but
demanded that the developer construct a fishway ''so as to render the passage of
salmon, shad and alewives practical and easy.
But when the 971-foot-long dam was completed three years later, there was no
fishway, and the dam's owners repeatedly resisted building one until 1880,
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Proprietary to the United Press International, February 4, 1990
when a fishway was finally constructed. By then, 45 years after the dam was
built, the salmon fishery was almost completely gone.
The Edwards Dam is owned by Miller Hydro Co. of Lisbon Falls. The company
also owns Edwards Manufacturing Co., which operated textile mills in Augusta,
Lisbon Falls and elsewhere. Those mills are no longer operating.
The dam once provided power to the nearby Edwards Mill, but Miller Hydro now
sells its power to Central Maine Power Co. for an estimated $1 million annually.
Since no operating hydro dam has been breached before, no one knows for sure
what the legal process will involve.
State officials say the state will open negotiations with Miller Hydro in an
attempt to buy the dam for a fair price. Miller Hydro may be happy to sell,
since its federal license to operate the dam expires in 1993, and would have to
be renewed by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission.
''The state has to sit down with the owners of the dam and reach a mutual
agreement,' said Richard Silkman, head of the state Planning Office and the
person who has been researching the dam proposal for McKernan.
The Associated Press, December 29, 1989
1986. He was re-elected handily two years later.
Brennan grew up on Portland's Munjoy Hill, the son of a longshoreman. After
Army duty, he went to Boston College on the GI bill and then entered law school
in Maine.
After three terms in the Maine House, he was elected Cumberland County
district attorney in 1970. Two years later he was elected to the state Senate
and served as Democratic floor leader.
Following his 1974 primary defeat, Brennan was elected by the Legislature to
serve as attorney general, a post he held until his 1978 election as governor.
Four years later, Brennan carried all 16 counties as he defeated Republican
nominee Charles L. Cragin.
Brennan acknowledged at the time that it was uncommon for governors to go on
to the House, giving up the perquisites of a chief executive to become one vote
among 435.
However, he was assigned to the House Armed Services Committee - a rarity for
a freshman - as well as Merchant Marine and Fisheries.
so it's ironic that he would be prosed to Mekena's
plan for the dam
LEXIS® NEXIS® LEXIS® NEXIS®
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 14, 1990
KENNEBEC
JOURNAL
More schooling
pep rallies, students council meetings - at most schools
these occur during classroom time - that there's precious
little time for teaching. But reforming schools and
and better schools
lengthening the school year are not competing goals.
Instead, they could dovetail perfectly.
Historically, the major reason for a short school year
As a nation, we're being "out-schooled" by the
was the crop season. The long summer school vacation
competition - who also out-trade us in world markets.
allowed the students to apply their needed labor to the
Could the two things be related?
family farm. But the proportion of Mainers involved in
John McKernan believes they are. "I fear our
agriculture has shrunk to a trace of what it once was.
"educational system may resemble the Polish cavalry -
Even the traditional two-week September break in
well-establishe.l, well-funded and probably out of date,"
Aroostook County for potato picking is being eliminated
the governor said last week, speaking to a group of
in some towns. Why then does the state stick
business people and community leaders. He was pushing
with an agricultural school-year calendar?
a remedy to part of the problem - a school calendar that
Ah, say traditionalists, but students and their families
has students in class less than half the year.
need the money from summer jobs.
"Our world trading partners - our competitors if you
That argument just shows how misplaced our priorities
will - average from 200 to 240 days of school a year,
are. Do we really value a student's minimum wage
depending on whether you're talking Europe or Asia,"
earnings for a few weeks over the education that will
McKernan points out. Maine students, he noted, now
enhance knowledge and earnings over a lifetime?
attend school just 175 days a year. But when he proposed
A longer school year won't solve all educational
a modest increase to 180 days, phased in over five
problems. But neither will they be solved without it.
years, the Legislature stonewalled him.
The governor should put his ideas back into legislation.
Despite that rebuff, the governor has it right -
And the Legislature must be prodded into passing it.
educational excellence won't come with a cut-rate
expenditure of classroom hours.
Some of those who argued against his school-days
increase bill last year liked to say that "lengthening the
year won't help - just improve the use of the days we
already have." That may sound clever - but it's in fact
absurd. No one asserts that the Japanese and Germans, to
take two countries whose young school graduates outstrip
ours in range and depth of knowledge, have to have
lengthier school-years to make up for deficient teaching.
No - proper education just can't be rushed, shoe-horned
into a short scholastic year, as Maine attempts to do.
It is of course true that schools are not making
optimum use of existing time. School schedules are so
overburdened by announcements, meetings, assemblies,
(Hinchliffe/Grossman)
October 2, 1990 6 p.m.
MAINE
PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: MAINE FUNDRAISER FOR MCKERNAN
Shawmut Inn, Kennebunkport
October 5, 1990
6:30 p.m.
Thanks, Jock -- always great to be in Kennebunkport. And
thanks to all of you, my neighbors and old friends, for the won-
derful warm welcome -- or are you just excited to have the father
of a best-selling author in town? I'd figured I was safe, since
none of my children or grandchildren like to write -- who would
have guessed my dog would have written a "lick and tell" book?\\\
I am glad to be here -- even though my good friend the Gov-
ernor has broken with me on a policy issue of crucial importance.
Yes, Jock, I saw your press release on broccoli. And after I let
you win at your golf tournament last August. 11 I just don't get
the same respect on the course President Eisenhower had. When he
retired someone asked him if leaving the White House had affected
his golf game. Ike said: "Yes. A lot more people beat me now."
Well, Jock's never let my position interfere with his golf.
And we all know there's another "championship bout" he's going to
win, come November 6. After all, he's one of the most athletic
government leaders in the country. He could become the first
governor to get his picture on a Wheaties box. 11
Look at that spectacular view out there. Just like ours
from Walker's Point, "down the road a piece." I love coming to
Kennebunkport -- it's my anchor to windward. There's a certain
magic about this place: the common-sense values -- the Down East
fairness and determination -- the joy of family -- my memories of
2
coming here every summer except one since I was born. Puts things
in perspective. Something in the land and the air and the water.
Barbara, the kids and I really enjoy being here -- we kind of
refurbish our souls -- get our batteries all charged up. It's
our getaway -- I've never found anything like it anywhere else.
And I've never found a Governor quite like Jock anywhere
else either. Nor has this state. First Republican in two
decades -- and now he'll be the first in many years to win a
second term. And he'll be re-elected because of his vigorous,
visionary lead-ership. We've all noticed that he's taken Maine
to the national forefront in recycling. And he's given the
state's youth and adults new hope with job training.
And he hasn't sat back and watched the plague of drugs
destroy this state's future. You know, our national war against
drugs is one of my top priorities. Our anti-drug czar, Bill
Bennett, and I just issued an update on how the battle is going.
And we expressed cause for optimism. To have someone like Jock
translating that federal intiative to the state level -- well,
it's not just important, it's an inspiring example for other
leaders. He's even created the Bureau of Intergovernmental Drug
Enforcement -- he's made drug trade bad business in this state.
And he's also been working with me in education. Just a
year ago, I convened the first Governors Summit on Education.
Jock's contributions then were important -- and his continuing
commitment has been even more so. In order to compete in the
21st century, we have to give our kids the key to the future --
3
the best education possible. But our competitors -- like Japan
and Germany -- keep their kids in school over 200 days a year.
Jock's made it his issue to get Maine kids to spend more than
just 175 days -- less than half the year -- in our classrooms.
And, you know, Jock received the "Watchdog of the Treasury"
award when he was in Congress. But when it comes to Maine's
budget he's more than a watchdog -- he's a pit bull. His fiscal
prudence and balanced budgets have made Maine one of the few New
England states to ride out the recent regional economic problems.
So he understands the national crisis I want to talk to you
about tonight. You're my friends. I can speak to you bluntly.
And my message is plain -- and of critical importance.
We've made a $500 billion bipartisan budget deal. That was
tough. It took a lot of negotiation, a lot of wrangling, a lot
of compromise. But it's done. And it's right. Now we have one
last step to go. We must get Congress to approve it.
We have to put aside partisanship and personal interests.
I'll give it to you straight. If this package goes down -- then
the American economy faces recession. It's as simple as that.
This is our last -- and our best -- hope. III
Let me make a few points. First. This is our biggest defi-
cit cutting package ever -- with our largest entitlement savings
ever --and the toughest, most iron-clad enforcement ever. 11
Second. It is balanced and fair and, let me tell you, after
8 months of tortured negotiations -- we cannot do any better. We
have no more time. The secondhand is running on America's future.
4
Third. It makes real cuts. No mirages. But it assures
that the defense program will have what it needs to support our
young men and women in the Gulf.
Finally -- and this may be the most important point in the
whole package -- this agreement doesn't raise income tax rates -
- personal or corporate. And it doesn't touch Social Security
Colas, military or federal retirement. 11
The package is tough. So are these times. 11 The package
is fair. So is the American spirit. 11 The package is bipartisan.
So is the final vote. 11 The package is real. So is our crisis.
I don't understate when I warn you that this agreement is
all that stands between us and a desperately ill economy. 11
Between growth and decline. Competition and surrender. 111
You know, John Steinbeck once said: "I've never met such
ardent individuals as Maine Yankees. I would hate to try to
force them to do anything they didn't want to do." Believe me: I
know what he means.
But I also know that inside those strong, independent
spirits are hearts of reason, fairness and caring. That's why I
know you'll support Jock -- and support this budget package.
Because his vision -- and the budget's importance -- are as much
legacies you want to leave for your children's future, as are the
rugged Maine woods, the spectacular Maine coast, the spirited
Maine character.
Thanks for your friendship -- and God bless you, this
beautiful state, and our nation.
kennebunkourt
City/State: Portland, ME
Event: McKernan for Governor
Date: Sept. 14,1990
OFFICE OF PRESIDENTIAL ADVANCE
CONTACT SHEET
Name
Office
Phone Number
Presidential Advance Office
202/456-7565
Presidential Advance Fax Number
202/456-2820
Judd Swift
WH Advance
202/456-7565
Spencer Geissinger
"
4
Lucy Muckerman
st
"
Kim Riley
WH Intergovernmental 202/456-6697
John Debet
usss- PORTLAND 207-780-3493
Charlie DeViTA
Usas PPD
202 395-4011
REX JORDAN
AIR FORCE ONE
202-695-7105
Lee Vivertte
MARINE ONE
703-640-2364
Doug Adair
WH Cabinet Affairs
202 456-2800
JENNIFER GROSSMAN
WH SPEECHWRITING 202 456-7750
Runce Stebbins
BOB RISNEY
WH Comm AGENCY
WH Political Affairs 202/456-6510 (202)395-4040
SEAN BYRNE
ARMY AIDE
(202) 395-1747
Pilon
Shawmut Inn Sules
(207) 967-3931
Sandy Tuttle
Jer. McKernan's staff
207-828-1990
Beth Cressy
Shawmut lan (207)467-3931
Willis lylord RE-ELECCOV MeKerNan
2078281990
Uhil +(207) 829-5267
Ref
E169
THE
1055
SMITHSONIAN
GUIDE TO
HISTORIC AMERICA
NORTHERN NEW ENGLAND
MAINE
TEXT BY
VANCE MUSE
SPECIAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY
PAUL ROCHELEAU
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
ROGER G. KENNEDY
DIRECTOR OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
OF AMERICAN HISTORY
OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
Stewart, Tabori & Chang
NEW YORK
162
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
163
T
he northeasternmost corner of the United States gave chilly
reception to its first transatlantic visitors. The Vikings prob-
ably were the first to sail into Maine's waters, about AD 1000.
Sixteenth-century explorers scouted the coast, seeking Norum-
bega, a mythical land of riches much like the El Dorado sought by
Hernando Cortes in Mexico at about the same time. Though the
explorers never found the Norumbegan paradise and pots of gold,
they did discover a more beautiful and-winters excepted- more
hospitable country than they might have expected from the Algon-
quin name for the place, Land of the Frozen Ground.
No one knows when European fishermen first began making
semipermanent camps on the Maine coast to dry their fish, repair
their boats, and trade for furs with the Indians. The kings of
France and England both granted patents for Maine (the French in
1603 and the English in 1606). The first English settlement in
Maine of which there is any record was established in 1607 at the
mouth of the Kennebec River. Led by Sir George Popham, these
colonists, many of them parolees from English jails, built the first
English vessel constructed in America but disbanded after their
first winter, the likes of which they had never felt in England.
Exploring the Maine coastline in 1614, Captain John Smith
exulted over the natural abundance of "Lobsters Fruits, Birds,
Crabs," and "such excellent fish as many as their Net can hold." In
1622 two Englishmen eager to harvest Maine's abundance, John
Mason and Sir Ferdinando Gorges, obtained a charter to the sixty-
mile strip of coast between the Merrimack and Kennebec rivers
and to all of the interior land between them. A 1629 division gave
Gorges the land between the Piscataqua and the Kennebec. He
planned to create large estates, along feudal lines, but a set of
misfortunes, including the wreck of a new ship that was to carry
The Old Fishing Docks, Portland.
him to America, prevented him from re-creating on this rugged
coast a little England of colonial nobles and sturdy peasants. Maine
fought for their claims, and the Dutch came to fleetingly stake out
continued as the domain of a tough lot of fishermen and traders.
some territory of their own.
Massachusetts assumed judicial control over Maine in 1652,
From the 1670s to the end of "Queen Anne's War" in 1713,
and in 1677 Gorges's grandson sold the patent to Massachusetts.
southern Maine was wracked by a series of wars with the Indians,
(Maine would remain part of Massachusetts until 1820.) The origin
marked by brutality on both sides. In those decades, the Indians
of the name of the province is obscure-it may have been so called
succeeded in reclaiming much of their old land from the English.
to distinguish it, the mainland, from the offshore islands. In 1641,
Entire settlements were abandoned, and streams of impoverished
the English crown chartered its first city in America at the site of
refugees descended on the towns of eastern Massachusetts, where
present-day York, Maine. That did not mean, however, that Maine
they subsisted on official and private charity. The settlement at
belonged to England alone: The French, allied with Indians,
Wells survived only by transforming itself into a virtual fortress. In
164
SOUTHERN MAINE
0
16 Mi.
4
the thirty years of peace after Queen Anne's War, the coast and
portions of the interior were rapidly resettled. French territory east
of the Penobscot River came into English possession at the end of
Auburn
Lewiston
the French and Indian War in 1759, and the French formally
302
surrendered their interest in the Treaty of Paris, signed in 1763.
Long Lake
Except in the far northern borderlands (where the French lan-
Fryeburg
R.
95
guage still can be heard), Maine became indisputably English.
Saco
Naples
New Gloucester
At the end of the French and Indian War, Maine was still the
M
A
N
E
least developed part of New England, with just fifteen incorporat-
Brunswick
5
Sebago
Gray
ed towns and a population of roughly 20,000, about half that of
Lake
Freeport
New Hampshire, and a third of the population of Rhode Island.
Porter
Cornish
Yarmouth
Fishing and farming settlements dotted the coast between Kittery
R.
Ossipee
Bay
Harpswell
and the Kennebec River. A primitive road ran parallel to the coast
25
Center
South Windham
up to the Kennebec. (John Adams, travelling along it in 1771,
Standish
Casco
called the trip "vastly disagreeable.") The interior was settled only
Newfield
Saco
to
PORTLAND
to a distance of about twenty miles from the shore, with some
4
deeper settlements along the rivers.
Southern Maine saw no fighting during the Revolution, with
Scarborough
East Waterboroo
the notable exception of the British raid on Falmouth in 1775, in
TPKE
Cape Elizabeth
which the town was virtually destroyed. Most of the fighting in the
Saco
state took place farther north. After the Revolution, Falmouth was
Biddeford
rebuilt and renamed Portland. Despite a burgeoning population
Sanford
ATLANTIC
and some discontent with the policies of the state government in
distant Boston, Maine would not become a separate state until
4
MAINE
Kennebunk
Kennebunkport
1820. It was admitted to the Union as part of the Missouri Compro-
North
mise-Maine entered as a free state, Missouri as a slave state.
Berwick
OCEAN
Abolitionist groups formed in Portland and other cities as early as
Fall
1830, and Maine sent about 70,000 men to fight for the Union.
R.
South
Berwick
Hannibal Hamlin, Abraham Lincoln's vice president during the
or
war, was a former Maine governor and U.S. senator.
Industry developed rapidly after the war, when the railroads
York Village
joined overseas shippers in getting Maine's huge timber harvests to
Kittery
(A
At
NEW
market. The lumber, paper, and pulp industries, granite quarry-
Portsmouth
Piscataqua R.
ing, iron and copper mining, and ice harvesting all contributed to
as
the state's economy in the nineteenth century, as did its maritime
HAMPSHIRE
ISLES OF SHOALS
SOUTHERN
pursuits-lobstering, cod fishing, sardine canning, and whaling.
This chapter covers the southern corner of Maine, beginning
MAINE
95
at Kittery and then following a route north along the coast, describ-
INTERSTATE HIGHWAY
ing along the way the industrial cities of Berwick; Saco and Bidde-
HISTORIC SITE
ford; Portland, Maine's most important urban center; and Bruns-
MASS.
wick (the site of Bowdoin College).
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
167
166
KITTERY
Shortly after Kittery's founding in 1647, the British began building
ships in this port city on the Piscataqua River. English warships
were constructed here until 1776, when a Continental Navy ship,
the Raleigh, was launched. In 1777, the Ranger sailed out of a
Kittery shipyard under the command of John Paul Jones. (A
monument to the Revolutionary War hero stands on Route 1, in
the center of town.) The Ranger proceeded to France to bring news
of Burgoyne's surrender, where she received the first official salute
given the American flag by a foreign warship. Then, disguised
under various flags, the Ranger confounded and waylaid British
shipping vessels, adding to the war effort at home. She was cap-
tured by the British in 1780 and added to their navy.
Kittery remained active in shipbuilding after the Revolution-
ary War. In 1800 the U.S. Navy established the Portsmouth Naval
Shipyard, which today continues to service ships and submarines
on a number of Kittery's islands. Submarine construction began at
the shipyard with the 1917 L8. Seavey Island, the original shipyard
site (not open to the public), is almost entirely an historic district
with eighteenth-century warehouses and other industrial struc-
tures and the Greek Revival residence quarters of naval officers.
The hexagonal blockhouse of Fort McClary, perched on a granite point that has been fortified
The Kittery Historical and Naval Museum (Rodgers Road, near
for nearly three centuries.
routes I and 236, 207-439-3080) interprets Kittery's and the coun-
try's naval shipbuilding history, as well as the history of the commu-
Hill. The fort was considered too well fortified for British attack
nity and the lives of the townspeople, through models of ships
during the Revolution; it was garrisoned during the War of 1812,
from the eighteenth century to the present, dioramas, photo-
Civil War, Spanish-American War, and World War I, when it was
graphs, and paintings. Special exhibits display the museum's as-
equipped as an observation post.
sorted artifacts, including early examples of lighting, physicians'
Fortification was improved in three major efforts, the first ca.
instruments, and other trade tools.
1808, next in 1844, and again in 1864, during the Civil War. The
hexagonal blockhouse, probably built during the middle construc-
Fort McClary
tion, is composed of a cut-granite first story on a mortared field-
The rise in the land at Kittery's Point, the oldest section of town,
stone foundation, topped with the traditional overhanging second
story of squared logs. Maine's Bureau of Parks and Recreation
was officially ordered fortified in the early eighteenth century
against the French, Indians, pirates-and to protect boats from the
administers the fort's surviving structures: the brick magazine,
taxes and duties imposed by the government of New Hampshire.
barracks' foundation, and granite wall from the first phase of
The initial breastwork that made up the fortification was named
improvements ca. 1808; the blockhouse and rifleman's house from
Fort William in honor of Sir William Pepperrell, a distinguished
the 1844 additions; and the granite powder magazine, unfinished
Maine colonist, justice of the peace, and loyalist. Fort William was
perimeter walls, and two caponiers from the final modifications.
garrisoned at the time of the Revolution and renamed Fort
LOCATION: Kittery Point Road, off Route 103. HOURS: June through
McClary in honor of Major Andrew McClary, a casualty of Bunker
September: 9-5 Daily. FEE: None. TELEPHONE: 207-439-2845.
168
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169
The First Congregational Church and Old Parsonage (Pepperrell
Road) are survivors from the early eighteenth century. The church
was incorporated in 1714, and the present building-the oldest
church building in the state-dates from 1730. The Old Parsonage,
now a parish house, was built in 1729.
Nearby is the William Pepperrell House (Pepperrell Road,
private), built in 1720 as the residence of a Welsh lumber magnate
and shipper who first settled on the Isles of Shoals before building
this house. His son was named a baronet for leading the attack on
the French fort at Louisbourg in King George's War in 1745. The
house was remodeled by successive generations of Pepperrells into
the structure seen today. Pepperrell died in 1759; in 1760, Lady
Pepperrell took advantage of her wealth and built herself a stately
and fashionable Georgian mansion. The Lady Pepperrell House
(Pepperrell Road, private) overlooks the Piscataqua River and
Portsmouth Harbor. A hipped roof covers the projecting center
pavilion, which is flanked by two-story Ionic pilasters surmounted
by a closed pediment. Dentil molding beneath the roof line encir-
cles the house. The porch, fence, and grape arbor are additions
from the 1920s. Nearby is a picturesque graveyard with a number
of nineteenth-century headstones.
Also on Pepperrell Road is the 1870 summer home of William
Dean Howells (private), author and editor of Atlantic magazine.
Howells bought the house in 1902 and spent his summers here,
writing and gardening, until 1912. He wrote from his "barnbry,"
stables he had moved from a corner of the lot and converted to a
library, which his son later turned and attached to the house.
Howells was publisher and friend to such literati as Henry James
and Samuel Clemens, both of whom were guests here. In 1979,
Howells's heirs donated the house to Harvard University.
ISLES OF SHOALS
Maine and New Hampshire share the Isles of Shoals. Lying nine
miles off the coast, the handful of islands (Duck, Appledore, Smut-
tynose, Malaga, and Cedar belong to Maine) have a richer history
than their barrenness suggests. Credited to Captain John Smith for
discovery, they were originally called Smith's Islands and were
home to all-male settlements of fishermen until 1647, when a man
OPPOSITE: The stylish Georgian Lady Pepperrell House, above, and the gambrel-roofed Sir
William Pepperrell House, below.
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171
the early twentieth century the islands attracted intellectuals and
artists, counting among their visitors Nathaniel Hawthorne, John
Greenleaf Whittier, James Russell Lowell, and Frances Hodgson
Burnett. An 1873 double murder on Smuttynose Island, which
led to one of the last penal executions in Maine, revived images
of the islands' post-revolutionary reputation and most likely
aided their decline.
The islands are open to the public for day trips; ferries run
regularly from Portsmouth, New Hampshire (603-431-5500).
YORK
Originally settled in the 1630s, the coastal village of York (incorpo-
rating York Corner and York Harbor) has a beautifully maintained
historic district along both sides of the York River. The town was
known earlier as Gorgeana, after its founder, Sir Ferdinando
Gorges, before it was renamed in honor of the county in England.
The townspeople defended themselves against a series of Indi-
an raids by raising a series of garrison houses at strategic points. A
Stone houses and churches, Isles of Shoals.
garrison house is often characterized by its bulky overhanging
named Reynolds battled the General Court of Massachusetts for
second story, but other configurations were used as well. The
the right to live with his wife and livestock on the island. It was
function of the house, providing a stronghold for both defense and
decided that the woman could stay but the livestock had to go, for
offense, overshadowed any strict adherence to one specific form.
fear of disrupting the open-air fish drying and curing. That deci-
The MacIntire Garrison (Route 91, private) was constructed ca.
sion brought families to the Isles of Shoals, primarily to Appledore
1707 but architecturally recalls the seventeenth century. Its sawn
and Star islands. The islands gained a reputation for decent gov-
log walls, nearly eight inches thick, are covered in dark clapboard
ernment, righteous churches, and outstanding education; main-
siding, giving the structure a dark, seemingly impregnable mass.
landers were known to send over their children for schooling. In
This garrison house has a second-story overhang and a large cen-
1715 the village of Gosport was settled on Star Island, and the
tral chimney, which was rebuilt in 1909.
islands thrived on whaling and fishing plus a healthy trading busi-
In the 1760s, York merchant and civic leader Jonathan
ness with Spain.
Sayward bought a 1718 Georgian house, enlarged it, and filled the
The islands' vulnerability to British attack precipitated the
rooms with Queen Anne and Chippendale furniture, paintings,
settlers' relocation to the coast at the time of the Revolution. After-
and porcelain. (The story goes that Sayward furnished his house
wards, the islands were repopulated, but this time gained a reputa-
with spoils from an expedition he led against the French in 1745.)
tion for rum, shipwrecking, and pirating.
Later Sayward generations and subsequent owners kept the house
Tales of ghosts, pirate treasure, and shipwrecked Spaniards
and its furnishings intact. The Sayward-Wheeler House (79 Bar-
proliferated, but by the 1820s the coast had exerted a proper
rell Lane Extension, York Harbor, 207-363-2709) now belongs to
civilizing influence over the islands. In 1847 Thomas Laighton of
the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.
Portsmouth, New Hampshire, established the first summer hotel
During the Revolution, patriotic local citizens staged their own
on Appledore Island and then another on Star Island. Through
version of the Boston Tea Party, seizing a shipment of tea from an
English sloop rather than pay taxes on it. Residents were also early
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SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
173
g
industrialists-the town's 1811 cotton mill is among the oldest in
felons and debtors, the gaoler's quarters may also be viewed, fur-
the state. After the Civil War, York was a popular summer resort.
nished according to the household inventory of 1790.
The Old York Historical Society (York Street and Lindsay
The 1742 Emerson-Wilcox House has been many things-
Road, 207-363-4974) administers a complex of seven historic
post office, tavern, tailor's shop, and private house several times
buildings dating from the mid-eighteenth century. The society's
over. It is now a museum of local history and crafts, displaying the
offices and library are housed in the George Marshall Store, a mid-
country's most comprehensive collection of crewelwork bedhang-
nineteenth-century general store overlooking Hancock Wharf.
ings; twelve period rooms showcase furniture made in the region.
Some of the society's collections of furniture, textiles, and books
York's 1745 Old Schoolhouse, one of the oldest one-room
belonged to York's earliest families. Tours of the society's proper-
schoolhouses in Maine, is furnished with original desks, benches,
ties, listed below, begin from Jefferds Tavern (Lindsay Road). Built
and books as well as exhibits on early schooling in the area. The
in 1750 by Captain Samuel Jefferds, the tavern serves as a visitor
John Hancock Warehouse, named for the Patriot who owned it, is
center with exhibits and crafts demonstrations.
the earliest commercial building in York, built in the mid-1700s.
The 1719 Old York Gaol (Jail), one of the oldest public build-
Interpretive materials illustrate river commerce and maritime
ings in the country, was originally the King's Prison for the District
trade of the region. The Society also administers the 1732 Eliza-
of Maine. With fieldstone walls nearly three feet thick, it was used
beth Perkins House (South Side Road at Sewall's Bridge). The
as a jail until 1860. In addition to the dungeons and cells used for
former home of York's pioneer preservationist reflects the eclectic
tastes of a family of collectors of the Colonial Revival period.
SOUTH BERWICK
The town of South Berwick, settled in 1623 on the Salmon Falls
River near the Maine-New Hampshire border, figures prominent-
ly in Maine's agricultural and industrial history. In 1634 a shipload
of the first COWS in the state was unloaded on the banks of the
Salmon Falls River, thus beginning dairy farming in the area. The
first sawmill in Maine was established in 1634 on the falls, down-
river from South Berwick village. The town is perhaps best known
in New England for the Berwick Academy, a highly regarded
secondary school dating to 1791.
The Sarah Orne Jewett House (5 Portland Street, 207-384-
5269) is named for the noted New England author. Built in 1774,
the house, which belonged to Jewett's grandfather, brought ele-
gance to South Berwick-its hipped roof, dormer windows, and
pediment doorway separated it from its simpler colonial neighbors.
The house's interior is elaborate; local legend has it that three
ships' carpenters spent 100 days carving the wainscotting, cornices,
and door moldings. Jewett's sea captain grandfather and physician
father lavishly appointed the house with imported furniture, tapes-
tries, porcelains, and silver.
OVERLEAF: Hamilton House, which was the setting for one of Sarah Orne Jewett's novels. It
A pre-Revolutionary York landmark, the putty-colored Emerson-Wilcox House.
faces the Piscataqua River.
176
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SOUTHERN MAINE
177
NORTH BERWICK
The English settlers of North Berwick were fur traders in the
1630s and held on to their town when other settlements were
abandoned during the upheavals of the French and Indian Wars.
A veteran of those wars, Thomas Hobbs, Jr., built the Hobb House,
a small inn on Wells Street, in 1763. Quaker Winthrop Morrell
built his own two-story farmhouse in 1763, and his family has kept
it for centuries. Known as the Old Morell House, it, like the Hobbs
House, is privately owned.
In the nineteenth century, manufacturing dominated North
Berwick's economy. Manufacturers specialized in plows and other
farm tools, as well as sleds and toboggans. The Hussey Plow
Company (Dyer Street, 207-676-2271), a family business since
1835, has turned its original store front and factory into a museum,
displaying early agricultural equipment.
SANFORD
At the foothills of the White Mountains, Sanford was named for
Peleg Sanford, a seventeenth-century governor of Rhode Island
whose stepfather held the original deed to this verdant land. Saw-
The master bedchamber of Hamilton House contains such fashionable turn-of-the-century
appointments as Currier & Ives prints, bird-and-vine wallpaper and a fishnet bed canopy. The
mills and gristmills were operating on the Mousam River as early as
chest to the left of the doorway was made by a Piscataqua-area craftsman in the late eighteenth
1740. After the Civil War Sanford-became a major textile-manufac-
century.
turing center. Woolen blankets and heavy cotton robes were local
specialties. Later, Sanford mills became the automobile industry's
Jewett set her Revolutionary War romance, The Tory Lover, in
major supplier of plush upholstery fabrics. One of the town's
Hamilton House (Vaughan's Lane, off Route 236, 207-384-5269),
industrialists, Thomas Goodall, provided his workers with housing
which is dramatically sited on the Piscataqua River just outside the
and recreational facilities and built the public library, the town hall,
town of South Berwick. Colonel Jonathan Hamilton built the house
hospital, and baseball stadium. Goodall's 1871 Victorian house is at
on the river bluff in 1785. It passed to other owners and survived
232 Main Street (private).
changes in the local economy from timber to shipping, farming,
The Emery Homestead (Lebanon Street, private) dates from
and manufacturing. In the 1840s the Hamilton estate was a sheep
the 1830s and is an excellent example of "continuous architecture,"
farm. Emily Tyson, a friend of Sarah Orne Jewett's, bought the
with main house, barns, sheds, and other structures attached.
house at the turn of the century and became one of the country's
first patrons of historic house restoration. Tours of the property
include the main house, the gardens, and the summer house.
KENNEBUNK
The Old Berwick Historical Society is located in the Counting
House (Route 4, 207-384-8041), an 1830 brick cotton mill. Local
Kennebunk's history as an important shipbuilding center is evident
in its great variety of nineteenth-century houses. Ranging in style
collections include a Jewett family library, Gundalow models, and
historic papers.
from Colonial to Queen Anne, from somber Federal to exuberant
Gothic Revival, the houses were home to the shippers, ship-
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SOUTHERN MAINE
builders, and sea captains who populated the town. Among the
residences are the James Smith Homestead (Route 35, private), a
mid-eighteenth-century Georgian farmhouse; the Bourne Man-
sion (8 Bourne Street, private), perhaps the finest Federal house in
Maine; and the Wedding Cake House (Summer Street, private), a
Victorian steamboat fantasy, supposed to have been a sea captain's
extravagant gift to his new bride.
The Brick Store Museum (117 Main Street, 207-985-4802)
began in an 1825 brick dry-goods store built by local merchant and
shipowner William Lord and has expanded to fill three connected
nineteenth-century buildings. Rotating exhibits pertaining to local
social and maritime history are held in the first-floor galleries; on
the second floor is a formal gallery of Federal-period furniture,
portraits, and paintings of ships. Books, manuscripts, and personal
effects of the Maine writer Kenneth Roberts and the novelist and
playwright Booth Tarkington are also on display.
The museum also operates the 1803 Taylor-Barry House (24
Summer Street), built by the architect and builder Thomas Eaton
for a prominent local family of shipmasters and shipowners. The
Federal style house features a hipped roof, and the interior retains
its original woodwork, moldings, and in the hallway, stencilling
attributed to the itinerant stenciller Moses Eaton. Rooms are fur-
nished with original pieces and are decorated in the Federal and
mid-Victorian styles. The studio of Edith Barry, a twentieth-cen-
tury painter, is at the rear of the house. Exhibits on local artists and
authors are occasionally held in the house.
KENNEBUNKPORT
Nestled between Cape Porpoise Harbor and the Kennebunk River,
this village began as a fishing and shipbuilding center. The historic
district (along North and Maine streets and Ocean Avenue) is rich
with houses from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, show-
ing a stylistic progression from Colonial to Federal, Greek Revival,
Gothic Revival, Italianate, and Second Empire. At the close of the
nineteenth century, when shipbuilding was on the wane, Kenne-
bunkport emerged as a summer resort. The most conspicuous
evidence of the town's resort life is the 1889 Kennebunk River
Club, a rambling Shingle-style clubhouse on Ocean Avenue, beside
the river as it approaches the sea.
OPPOSITE: A collection of Oriental export Rose Medallion porcelain is kept in the dining
room of the Taylor-Barry House, just off the stencilled entrance hall.
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181
Among the notable houses are White Columns (Maine Street.
histories, and historic memorabilia-including photographs and
207-967-2751), an outstanding Greek Revival house with a monu-
architectural records of the region. The Society also administers
mental Doric colonnade topped by a bold pediment. The house
the First Parish Meeting House (3 Meeting House Road), erected
was built in 1853 by Charles Perkins, a merchant who sold supplies
in 1759 and renovated in 1840, which may be seen by appointment.
to the big clipper ships as well as investing in their cargoes. He and
his wife, Celia Nott Perkins, moved into the house as newlyweds; an
SACO
interpretive tour of the house draws heavily from the detailed
diaries Celia kept throughout her life there. The house retains all
Sharing Biddeford's industrial history, Saco is also home to the
York Institute Museum (371 Main Street, 207-282-3031). Estab-
the original wallpaper, carpets, and furnishings, including a paint-
lished in 1867, the museum houses a superb collection of Maine
ing of the Perkins's daughter, Lela, by Kennebunkport artist Han-
fine and decorative arts. The adjacent 1881 Dyer Library has a
nah Skeele and two magnificent embroidered crazy quilts made by
Celia Perkins.
large collection of Biddeford and Saco records, including early
The three-and-a-half story Federal-period Captain Lord Man-
newspapers, city records, and personal papers.
sion (corner of Green and Pleasant streets) was built from 1812 to
Nearby on Elm, North, and Upper Main streets are accom-
1815 by Captain Nathaniel Lord, a wealthy shipbuilder. The house
plished examples of Federal-period architecture interspersed with
features an octagonal cupola and a widow's walk. Charles P. Clark,
the-later dwellings of textile-mill owners and workers. Several fine
Greek Revival houses (all private) line the side streets.
president of the New York-New Haven Railroad and a grandson
of Lord, used the house as a summer residence in the late nine-
SCARBOROUGH
teenth century; it is now being operated as an inn.
One of the country's best preserved gristmills is the Perkins
On a peninsula just south of Portland is the small town of Scarbor-
Tide Mill (Mill Lane). Built in 1749, the mill, powered by tidal
ough. Its oldest structure, built in 1684, is the Richard Hunniwell
waters, remained in operation for nearly two centuries, finally
House (Black Point Road, 207-883-8427), named for its owner, a
shutting down in 1939. It is currently occupied by a restaurant.
captain during the Indian wars of the late seventeenth century.
The Clark Building (North Street, 207-967-2751) contains a
The modest shingled house and herb garden are typical of the
small marine museum displaying artifacts of the shipbuilding era,
period.
such as ship models, paintings, tools, and anchors. The building
formerly housed the offices for the Clark shipyards.
BIDDEFORD
Divided by the Saco River, the twin towns of Biddeford and Saco
became Maine's first major industrial area. The first sawmill was
constructed in 1653, and the nineteenth century brought vast brick
mills, which still dominate the downtown area. The products of
these mills-textiles, textile machinery, lumber, and flour-sup-
plied a large domestic and foreign market.
A monument at Leighton's Point in Biddeford commemorates
the explorer Richard Vines, who spent the winter in this area in
1616. Permanent settlement was established on June 25, 1630. The
Biddeford Historical Society (270 Main Street, 207-282-9165),
which resides at the McArthur Library, holds the town's records
Winslow Homer, a longtime resident of Scarborough, painted many scenes of Northern New
from 1653 to 1855. The library houses local genealogies, mill
England such as the 1873 Boy in a Boatyard (detail).
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183
In 1884, the artist Winslow Homer moved to a carriage house
CAPE ELIZABETH
in Prout's Neck, an area of Scarborough, making it both home and
studio until his death in 1910. The house, a modest structure built
Jutting out into the Atlantic, Cape Elizabeth is the site of two of
about 1870, offers vast views of the Atlantic that recall the artist's
Maine's lighthouses-the Portland Head Light, built in 1790, and
well-known paintings of the sea. The house has changed little since
Two Lights, made of cast iron in 1874. Probably the best-known
Homer's tenure and remains in his family.
lighthouse on the eastern seaboard, the Portland Head Light is
In the Dunstan area of Scarborough is the Scarborough His-
practically unchanged since George Washington ordered its con-
torical Society Museum (Route 1, 207-883-6159). Housed in a
struction. Off the cape is Richmond's Island, where an early-seven-
1911 brick building used as a generator house for trolley cars, the
teenth-century trading post and fishing station has been preserved
museum's collections include records of the town's early families, as
as an archaeological site.
well as their household items and tools; and fifteen murals by
PORTLAND
Roger Deering representing Scarborough's early history beginning
in 1630.
Beginning in 1623, the Casco Bay Peninsula attracted a series of
On the Dunstan Landing Road a millstone marker identifies
French and English settlers who fought with one another, with
the birthplace of Rufus King, a signer of the U.S. Constitution, and
Indian tribes and pirates-and with the brutal winters. The fragile
his brother William, Maine's first governor.
European settlements hung on for nearly a century, occupied in
fur trading, fishing, and lumbering. A hardy Massachusetts contin-
gent arrived in 1715 and fortified the site with stone garrisons. By
1770, the place had gained a name-Falmouth-and some pros-
perity, from shipbuilding, as well as stepped-up exports of fish,
furs, and lumber. White pines from the nearby forests became
sturdy masts for the British Navy. From the West Indies came
molasses to be distilled into rum.
During the Revolution, in October 1775, British ships
dropped anchor in Casco Bay and opened fire, nearly leveling the
town. Even in ruins, Falmouth was too important to abandon, and
a few hundred colonists stayed on through the Revolution.
The town was gradually rebuilt after the war, and as Port-
land-so named on July 4, 1786-it grew into one of the Atlantic
seaboard's major commercial centers. The nineteenth century saw
fortunes made from the shipyard, ráilroad, textile, and lumber
industries. By the 1850s, a dozen shipyards were launching trade
vessels bound for Russia, India, and Europe. One of the first sugar
refineries in the United States was the Portland Sugar Company,
opened in 1855. A heavy manufacturer, the Portland Company,
made train locomotives and other large industrial equipment for
an international market. By the late 1860s, Portland ranked among
the top U.S. ports-fourth in imports, fifth in exports. There was
also the business of government: Between 1820 (when Maine
joined the Union) and 1831, Portland was the state capital. Immi-
Rising above Maine's rocky shore: the Portland Head Light.
grants arrived from Scandinavia, Ireland, Italy, and Great Britain.
185
SOUTHERN MAINE
During the Civil War, strongly abolitionist Portland sent 5,000
troops and a fleet of gunboats to the Union. Shortly after the war
the city experienced the disaster that has visited so many others:
On July 4, 1866, a fire swept out of a tiny boat-house to engulf
entire blocks of buildings. One third of Portland was destroyed,
altering the development of many of the city's districts. Fore, Mid-
dle, and Exchange streets were the hardest hit by the fire. Whereas
many of the buildings on the waterfront side of Fore Street sur-
vived, leaving architectural examples of Colonial, Federal, and
Greek Revival buildings intact, the rebuilding of the devastated
Exchange Street provided an array of later architectural styles. The
fire accelerated Congress Street's transformation from residential
to commercial development, which in turn opened the Eastern and
Western promenades to residential building. The Western Prom-
enade became Portland's affluent residential neighborhood, exhib-
iting the popular Victorian style of the day.
Along the historic waterfront and Portland's older residential
streets are houses, churches, and commercial buildings that sur-
vived the fire. The Tate House (1270 Westbrook Street, 207-774-
9781), a handsome Georgian residence built in 1755, belonged to
George Tate, "mast agent" for the Royal Navy. Tate's job was to
oversee the selection of trees, primarily white pine, used for masts
on the king's ships. Mast production and trade helped establish
Portland as a center of commerce after suitable timber from Ports-
mouth, New Hampshire, grew scarce. Tate lived in the house from
1755 to 1794. His son has the distinction of being the only Ameri-
can to become a first admiral in the Russian navy.
The building is unusual for its clerestory, an indented, win-
dowed exterior wall rising above the second story. Inside, the first
floor contains fine wood panelling, wide stairways, and tall chim-
ney breasts: The central chimney serves eight fireplaces. The
interior is furnished to exhibit the style customary to a wealthy
eighteenth-century official. Letters and artifacts relating to Tate's
son and collections of pewter and iron kitchen utensils are
also displayed.
The Wadsworth-Longfellow House
Boyhood home of American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow,
this house was the first brick house built in Portland. In 1785
General Peleg Wadsworth, the poet's grandfather, ordered the
OPPOSITE: A quiet street in Portland. State Street Church rises to the right.
186
SOUTHERN MAINE
the GENEALOGY.ru of
bricks from Philadelphia and succeeded in having the first story
Daniel and
Elizabeth eMountfort
built before running out of them. Perhaps the shortage was due to
Daniel Mountfort born at Portland February 1762
inexperience with the new building material-the first story has
Elizabeth Slatey born at Portland April 1268
sixteen-inch-thick walls, twice as thick as usual. The second story
Married
September 30 1787
was built in 1786 with the second shipment of bricks. The top story
Isaac
Mountfore
born
Fuly
21
1788
and Federal style roof of this primarily late Georgian three-story
house were completed in 1815 after a fire destroyed the original
Died at
Havanna
October 5 J909
roof. The changes in the brick patterns from story to story provide
Joseph
Mounifore
born
December
"
1789
evidence of the building's history.
Died
at
Portland
September
14
1809
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's family moved to the house in
1807, when he was an infant. There he grew up with his seven
James
Mountfort
born
September
13
1791
brothers and sisters, his parents, and his aunt. Both the Wads-
Daniel
Mountfore
born
guly
25
1794
worths and the Longfellows were descended from Mayflower Pil-
John
Mounifore
born
September
3.1796
grims, and his upbringing reflected the family's emphasis on edu-
cation and moral purpose. Longfellow moved away to attend
William
Mountfore
born
October
19
1799
Bowdoin College in 1821 but returned frequently for lengthy
Mary
Ann
Mounifors
born
guly
23
visits. The house was given to the Maine Historical Society in 1901
Gane
eMountfore
born
April
16
1804
by Anne Longfellow Pierce, the poet's sister. Wadsworth and Long-
fellow family furnishings, mementoes, and portraits, as well as an
Elizaberh
9 Mountfort
born
Febuary
1806
eighteenth-century kitchen are on display.
Harrier
Mountfort
born
March
If
J808
LOCATION: 487 Congress Street. HOURS: June through mid-Octo-
Sarah 9
Mounefore
born
April
23
ber: 10-4 Tuesday-Saturday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-772-
Joseph
e/Mountfort
born
June
so
1812
1807.
ORESIGNATION heavenly power Teachus the hand of love divine
Founded in 1822, the Maine Historical Society (485 Congress
Our warmest thoughts engage
In inevils to discern
need
Thou are the safest guide of youth XIS the first lesson which sue
Street, 207-774-1822) is the fourth oldest such organization in the
The sole support of age
The latest which welearn.
United States, ranking behind those of Massachusetts (1791), New
WHEN blooming youth is
York (1804), and Rhode Island (1822). Located behind the Long-
snatched away
fellow House, its galleries and extensive collections cover genealogy
By deaths resistless hand
and local and regional history.
our hearts the mournful
At the turn of the nineteenth century, the Federal style of
tribute pay
architecture gained in popularity, as evidenced by the buildings of
Which pry doth demand
Portland. The Joseph Holt Ingraham House (51 State Street, pri-
vate) was built in 1801 for the prominent businessman and silver-
Elizabeth *** Mount ort
smith who is credited with the development of State Street; he later
lost his wealth in the War of 1812. The house, which was designed
years Portland July
by famed New England architect Alexander Parris, has undergone
27
1820
major changes, leaving the fanlight and cornice the only remaining
OPPOSITE: A genealogy in sampler form, made by Elizabeth Mountfort of Portland in 1820,
from the collection of the Maine Historical Society.
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189
Federal details. Parris also designed the Richard Hunnewell
Morse-Libby House
House (156 State Street, private). Built in 1805 for Colonel
Hunnewell, a participant in the Boston Tea Party, this Federal
A dramatic departure from the elegant Federal and restrained
mansion was remodeled in the 1920s by John Calvin Stevens, who
Greek Revival houses in Portland is the 1860 Morse-Libby House,
enlarged it and added the front portico and Palladian window.
better known as the Victoria Mansion-the style of the mansion a
tribute to the Victorian age of opulent decoration and to the Queen
herself. Ruggles Sylvester Morse, a Maine native, earned his for-
McLellan-Sweat House
tune in the hotel business in New York, Boston, and New Orleans.
He hired the architect Henry Austin to design this mansion in the
This house remains an outstanding example of Federal architec-
grand manner of the South. The house was intended to be a
ture and a tribute to the expectations of a growing city and young
summer home, away from the heat of New Orleans, where Morse
country. The three-story brick mansion was built from 1800 to
lived at the time, but with the onset of the Civil War, he and his wife
1801 by John Kimball, Sr., for Major Hugh McLellan, a mariner
moved to Portland permanently.
and founding businessman of Portland. However, the Embargo of
1807 so set back the McLellan fortune that in 1815 the house was
sold to Asa Clapp for about a quarter of the cost of its construction.
The house was again sold in 1880 to Colonel Lorenzo de Medici
Sweat, whose wife bequeathed it to the Portland Society of Art on
her death in 1908.
The exterior of the McLellan-Sweat House now boasts its
original ochre color, complementing a Palladian window and porti-
coed doorway with fanlight and sidelights in Federal style. Inside,
the optimism of the times is depicted in the dining room mantel
ornamentation: A goddess of plenty rides a chariot accompanied
by a cupid and cornucopia. Both the interior and exterior of the
mansion highlight the attention to detail and scale inherent in
Federal styling. The Portland Museum of Art arranges tours
through the unfurnished house, focusing on its architectural ele-
ments and plan.
LOCATION: 103 Spring Street. HOURS: By appointment. FEE: Yes.
TELEPHONE: 207-775-6148.
The Park Street Row (88-114 Park Street), the largest rowhouse
structure to be erected in Portland, was originally built in 1835 as
twenty townhouses forming a U-shape around a park. The remain-
ing fourteen attached brick houses gracefully carry Greek Revival
details such as the cast-iron railings that unite the second-floor
balconies. Begun as a real estate venture, the complex was sold by
the stockholders before completion. Although the project was fin-
ished by the individual buyers, it remains a tribute to the forward
A stone villa, complete with Tuscan tower: Portland's Victoria Mansion, also known as the
thinking of its originators.
Morse-Libby House.
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SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
191
merchant. In 1940, after more than a decade of abandonment, the
house was bought by Dr. William Holmes and his sister, Clara, who
subsequently donated it to the Victoria Society in 1943.
LOCATION: 109 Danforth Street. HOURS: June through August: 10-
4 Tuesday-Saturday, 1-4 Sunday. September: 10-1 Tuesday-Satur-
day, 1-4 Sunday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-772-4841.
Neal Dow Memorial
Built in 1829, this mansion was home of reformer Neal Dow and a
center of political activity focusing on temperance, abolition, prison
reform, and women's rights. A brigadier general in the Civil War,
twice the mayor of Portland, a state legislator, and presidential
candidate on the Prohibition ticket, Dow was internationally known
for his temperance work. Portland's prosperous rum trade was an
affront to Dow, and his response was the Maine Law, which in 1851
prohibited the making and selling of alcohol in the state. He spent
much of his life touring the U.S. and abroad to promote his
reforms. Dow's son bequeathed the home and furnishings to the
Maine Woman's Christian Temperance Union, which maintains it
Extravagant window treatments, ceiling and wall decoration, and suites of furniture in the
as a memorial to Dow and as their headquarters. Rooms display
Morse-Libby House display the fashionable excess of the Rococo Revival.
furnishings original to the house from various periods, as well as
A fine example of the Italian Villa style, the Victoria Mansion
paintings, portraits, silver, ornamental ironwork, and family
dominates the corner of Park and Danforth streets. A central
memorabilia-including a set of china emblazoned with Dow's pic-
ture, a gift to his wife.
square tower rises above two stories, a prominent cornice on one
side, a classic pediment on the other. The pediment is echoed
LOCATION: 714 Congress Street. HOURS: 11-4 Daily. FEE: None.
above the second-story windows on the one side while heavy hood-
TELEPHONE: 207-773-7773.
molds trim those on the other.
At 387 Spring Street stands a fine example of mid-nineteenth-
Within, the house displays a panoply of ornamentation: ex-
century Gothic Revival architecture, a style made popular by
travagant carvings, etched and stained glass, vibrant paintings and
American architect Andrew Jackson Downing and reflecting the
frescoes, medallions, cherubim, and richly appointed light fixtures.
prevailing romanticism of the day. Designed by Henry Rowe, the
The painted and carved walls and ceilings, thought to be designed
John J. Brown House, also known as the Gothic House (private),
by Gustave Herter of New York, were executed by numerous
has a central gable with bargeboards and a porch with a Tudor
artisans. A mahogany staircase ascends from a base flanked by
arch, above which sits a simple tracery window. In 1971 the house
bronze torch bearers; hand-carved chestnut panelling adorns the
was moved a half-mile to this location to preserve it from
dining room walls; gilt, damask, satin, rosewood, mother of pearl,
destruction.
and marble accent the craftsmanship throughout. Most of the
The 1866 Leonard Bond Chapman House (90 Capisic Street,
furnishings are original to the Morse household and reflect the
private) is notable for its mansard roof and concave tower. Chap-
taste and wealth of a Victorian entrepreneur.
man was a local historian whose collection of documents forms the
Morse died in 1893; the house and furnishings were pur-
foundation of the Maine Historical Society's library holdings on
chased from his estate in 1894 by Joseph Ralph Libby, a Portland
Portland's history.
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SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
193
Portland's oldest church is First Parish Church (425 Congress
church is noteworthy not only for its outstanding ecclesiastical
Street), also the city's first stone public building. This Colonial-
architecture but also as the home of the Young People's Society of
Federal style structure was built in 1825-1826 on the site of "Old
Christian Endeavor, begun here in 1881. The society sparked the
Jerusalem," the parish's wooden meeting house where Maine's
Sunday school movement, providing religious education tailored
constitution was drafted by the Constitutional Convention in 1819.
for children.
The parish itself dates back to 1674 and its current members work
The U.S. Customhouse (312 Fore Street), a grand edifice in
to keep the church as it was when it was built; the pulpit, minister's
the Second Empire style, is a reminder of Portland's nineteenth-
chair, lighting fixtures, communion table, and even the pulpit
century prosperity. The massive building occupies a complete
Bibles date to the 1820s.
block on the waterfront, its mansard-roofed towers rising above
The Portland Observatory (138 Congress Street, 207-774-
two stories of New Hampshire granite, topped by an encircling
5561) sits on Munjoy Hill, where George Munjoy settled as early as
balustrade. The interior chandeliers, woodwork, painted and gild-
1659 and where victims of the 1866 fire dwelt in tent cities. The
ed ceilings, and marble floors remain as elegant as when they were
observatory was built in 1807 as a signal tower; a system of signal
new; both within and without, little has been altered since the
flags alerted citizens to approaching ships, and ships in distress
building was completed in 1871.
could be spotted. The tower was closed at the turn of the century
Eighteen hundred buildings were lost in the Great Fire of
and reopened in 1939 as a historic site. The octagonal tower rises
1866 and for months many of the 10,000 homeless victims lived in
221 feet above sea level, affording panoramic views of the harbor
emergency shelters and tent camps, eating in soup kitchens. The
and the White Mountains; visitors climb 102 steps to reach the top.
Portland Fire Museum (157 Spring Street, 207-775-6361, ext.
Also on Munjoy Hill lies the oldest cemetery in Portland, the
201), housed in the 1837 granite Greek Revival Fire Station No. 4,
Eastern Cemetery (Congress at Mountfort streets). Chartered in
documents the history of firefighting in Portland and the Great
1688, it dates from the time when Portland was called Falmouth.
Fire of 1866, using photos and artifacts.
Many of Portland's prominent citizens were buried here from 1670
to the late 1800s.
Portland Museum of Art
The 1828 Mariner's Church (368 Fore Street) brought Greek
As the oldest public art museum in the state, founded in 1882, the
Revival architecture to Portland, though embellished with Federal
institution's original facilities include the 1800 McLellan-Sweat
style cornice and fanlight. The church was part of an unusual
House and the 1911 L.D.M. Sweat Memorial. In 1983, the opening
scheme: The large, columned structure housed shops on the
of the Charles Shipman Payson Building, designed in the Postmo-
ground floor-their rent financed the church and its missions-
dern style by Henry Nichols Cobb of I. M. Pei & Partners, in-
while the church maintained its chapel on the third floor. Built in
creased the museum's space tenfold and provided its current
the dock area of this rum-trading town where temperance was on
home. Five levels of galleries hold the museum's collections of
the rise, the church meant to serve and educate the seamen. The
American and English silver, Chinese art, Federal-period furnish-
building stands mostly unchanged, with shops operating on the
ings, American primitives, glass, maritime art, and paintings from
ground floor, but the church is no longer used for worship services.
the eighteenth century to the present. The core State of Maine
Another Portland church noted for its architecture is the
Collection includes works by artists such as Charles Codman, An-
Chestnut Street United Methodist Church (17 Chestnut Street).
drew Wyeth, Benjamin Paul Akers, Marsden Hartley, and Peggy
Designed by Portland architect Charles A. Alexander and built in
Bacon, all of whom lived or worked in the state. The Charles
1856, it is an early example of Gothic Revival architecture.
Shipman Payson Collection of Winslow Homer paintings is also
At 32 Thomas Street, the 1878 Williston-West United Church
part of this core collection. Gallery space is provided for traveling
of Christ stands in its high Victorian Gothic splendor, designed by
exhibitions of fine and decorative arts.
Francis Fassett and later altered by his onetime partner John Cal-
vin Stevens. Stevens also built the parish house, in 1904. This
LOCATION: 7 Congress Square. HOURS: 10-5 Tuesday-Saturday,
12-5 Sunday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-775-6148.
194
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
195
and vertical groupings of windows give this structure a distinctive
Italianate expression. Beyond its rounded corner and across the
street, the Thompson block (117-125 Middle Street) imitates the
Woodman block even more closely. Here a flat mansard roof tops a
set of windows. A repetitive oak-leaf-and-acorn detail ornaments
the building. Together, the blocks exemplify the grand commercial
architecture of the late nineteenth century while concretely assert-
ing Portland's viability after the Great Fire.
Another of Portland's outstanding commercial buildings com-
memorates the life of John Bundy Brown, the city's embodiment of
the American Dream. Brown started work as a grocery clerk and
died in 1881 the city's leading capitalist, having founded the Port-
land Sugar Company and the Falmouth Hotel, a favorite society
spot. John> Calvin Stevens designed the Queen Anne style John
Bundy Brown Memorial Block (529-543 Congress Street) in
Brown's memory. Its richly textured surface, asymmetrical facade,
and variegated roofline are typical elements of this style, more
often reserved for domestic structures. The Greater Portland
The 1941 Broad Cove Farm, and other Andrew Wyeth paintings of the Cushing area, are in
Landmark Association (207-774-5561) offers walking tours of
the Portland Museum of Art (detail).
these areas.
Fort Gorges was begun in 1858 on Hog Island, at the entrance
SOUTH WINDHAM
to the city's harbor, and served as Portland's principal Civil War
The little town of South Windham is home to one of the finest
fortification. The fort is a massive hexagonal granite pile, typical of
Georgian residences in New England, the Parson Smith House (87
defensive military architecture of the time. Ironically, even before
River Road, 617-227-3956), built in 1764 by the settlement's sec-
its completion in the 1860s, Fort Gorges's architecture was already
ond pastor. The clapboard house has a handsome, if simple interi-
obsolete. During both world wars, the U.S. Navy stored equipment
or, with hand-planed panelling and spacious rooms, a showcase for
and ammunition here.
the decorative styles of the day. The Smith family, among South
Local architect George M. Harding, practicing in Portland from
Windham's original settlers, kept the house for almost 200 years,
the 1850s to the 1870s, designed three prominent buildings on
and many of its furnishings belonged to them. The eighteenth-
Middle Street, known as the Woodman, Rackleff, and Thompson
century kitchen is primarily original, with a ten-foot hearth incor-
blocks. The buildings were some of the earliest commercial struc-
porating a later beehive oven. The house is owned and adminis-
tures built in Portland after the devastating fire of 1866, which
tered by the Society for the Preservation of New England
explains their homogeneous character. The Woodman block (133-
Antiquities.
141 Middle Street) was the first of the three, built in 1867. Its
Babb's Covered Bridge, originally built in 1864 and recon-
rounded mansard roof, the most prominent Second Empire fea-
structed after a fire in 1973, crosses the Presumscot River off River
ture, tops an Italianate arrangement of windows and ground floor
Road, about two miles north of town.
arcade. The cast-iron storefronts on the ground floor were made
locally by the Portland Company. Harding put his name at the base
STANDISH
of one of the pilasters. The first floor arcade and window arches of
the Rackleff block (129-131 Middle Street) echo those of the
The fine Georgian Marrett House (Route 25, 617-227-3956) went
Woodman; the facade, however, sits one foot lower. The flat roof
up for sale the same year it was built-when the Reverend Daniel
196
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
197
Marrett bought it in 1789, the house was only a few months old. It
In nearby Newfield is the museum village Willowbrook (207-793-
remained in the Marrett family for over 150 years, and each gen-
2784), an early nineteenth-century compound that includes a
eration made changes outside and in. As a result, its architecture
schoolhouse, two farmhouses, barns, and sheds.
and furnishings reflect many decades of evolving styles. Among its
many fine pieces are a Victorian parlor set, an eighteenth-century
PORTER
Newport card table, and Parson Marrett's standing desk, where he
wrote his sermons. Marrett's descendants gave the house to the
Porter profited from its position downstream from Kezar Falls,
Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.
which powered many woolen mills near the New Hampshire bor-
Reverend Marrett's church was Standish's first parish meeting-
der. Porter also attracted the Bullockites, followers of Jeremiah
house, the Old Red Church (Oak Hill Road). The large but grace-
Bullock, a fundamentalist Baptist. In 1819 the Bullockites built
ful frame structure, topped with an impressive cupola, went up in
their own church, stark and boxy, now known as the Porter Old
1804 on land donated by the minister himself. Marrett served as
Meeting House (Colcord Pond Road, 207-625-4667). Until 1900,
pastor until 1829. Currently owned by the town of Standish, the
town meetings were also held here. The historical society has ad-
church holds services in summer. The museum of the Standish
ministered the property since 1947.
Historical Society is located on the second floor.
FRYEBURG
Situated on the fertile Saco River plain, the land called Pequawket
by the Indians became one of Maine's first English farming com-
munities. It was later named in honor of Colonel Joseph Frye, who
laid out the town lots in 1762.
Two of Fryeburg's earliest residences were incorporated into
later structures. The Squire Chase House (151 Main Street, pri-
vate) incorporates the ca. 1767 home of one of the first settlers,
Nathaniel Marrill, moved from its original site in 1824. The cur-
rent structure has been modified by Italianate detailing. The Fed-
eral-style Benjamin Wiley House (Fish Street, private) also con-
tains an earlier structure, dating from 1772.
NAPLES
Arriving from Massachusetts in 1776, the Perley family acquired
farmland around Naples and joined the ranks of the state's most
prominent and politically active citizens. Their homestead, origin-
ally consisting of 2,000 acres of timberland, includes the 1809
Perley Farmhouse.
The Songo Lock is a relic of Naples's economic past. Built in
1830, the lock operated for years on the Cumberland-Oxford
Canal (off the Songo River), an important trade artery between
Portland and points north and west. From the Civil War to the turn
of the century, the lock-a massive piece of machinery consisting of
a stone frame and wooden gates-conveyed logs to sawmills. It is
Garden of the Marrett House, Standish.
now used for private boat travel.
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199
YARMOUTH
Sharing Casco Bay with Portland, Yarmouth is now a commuter
town, lying just north of the city. A fishing village in the late 1600s,
Yarmouth grew into a shipping and shipbuilding center in the
nineteenth century. One of its oldest surviving buildings is the Old
Ledge School (West Main Street, 207-846-6259), a 1738 one-room
schoolhouse administered by the Yarmouth Historical Society. The
Society also operates a Museum of Yarmouth History housed in
the town's Merrill Memorial Library, designed in 1905 by A. W.
Longfellow of Boston. Exhibits illustrate the region's heritage.
On the campus of North Yarmouth Academy (123 Main
Street, 207-846-9051) are the Greek Revival Russell and Acade-
my halls. Russell Hall was built in 1841; Academy Hall went up five
years later. The town's Baptist Meeting House sits on an elevation
above Hillside Street. Renovated twice since it was built in 1796, the
church now blends Federal, Greek Revival, and Gothic Revival
styles. A twentieth-century treasure is the Grand Trunk Railroad
Station (57 Main Street). The small, ornate station was built in
1906, when Yarmouth was a stop on the Boston-to-Bangor rail line.
ABOVE and OVERLEAF: Shaker Meetinghouse, near Sabbathday Lake and New Gloucester.
It is now a shop.
The blue paint on the interior beams is almost 200 years old.
FREEPORT
The Shaker Village (Route 26, 207-926-4597), near Sabbath-
An eighteenth-century farming and fishing village, Freeport grew
day Lake, is the remnant of the Shaker community founded there
industrially in the 1800s. The Freeport Historical Society (45 Main
in 1783. The village consists of thirteen buildings, all of them
Street, 207-865-3170) is housed in an 1830 brick house furnished
exemplifying the Shaker ideal of uncluttered, functional beauty;
with reproductions of nineteenth-century furniture and crafts.
some of them-the boys' shop, Shaker store, meetinghouse, minis-
The Society also administers the Pettengill House and Farm, an
try's shop-and the herb gardens are open to the public. Within
eighteenth-century saltbox house on a 140-acre saltwater farm.
the meetinghouse, the Shaker Museum displays many examples of
Characterized by their proximity to the sea, saltwater farms com-
the elegantly simple and functional designs for which the Shakers
bined agricultural and marine activities-their farmers used salt
are known. Collections include furniture, textiles, farm tools.
marshes as pasture land and supplemented their income with ship-
LEWISTON/AUBURN
ping and fishing. The farm also includes three outbuildings.
Known as Maine's twin cities, Lewiston and Auburn are divided by
NEW GLOUCESTER
Lewiston Falls on the Androscoggin River. In its village days of the
In the early 1700s sixty citizens from Gloucester, Massachusetts,
early nineteenth-century, the west bank of the river-the Auburn
established themselves in Maine in a settlement they named after
side-was known as Goff's Corner, for developer James Goff, Jr.,
their old home. Rebuilt after attacks during the French and Indian
whose store became a popular meeting place. The falls were har-
Wars, New Gloucester grew rapidly on a primarily agricultural
nessed to power both cities' textile mills and shoe factories. Shoe-
basis after the Revolutionary War. Many of its white farmhouses
making was a particularly big business in Auburn, with the first of
and gray barns are over 200 years old.
the city's twenty-five shoe factories established in 1835.
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203
Most of the people employed by the factories after the Civil
(215 Libson Street), unified beneath a long mansard roof, and
War were French Canadians, who created a rich bicultural society.
Lewiston's baroque City Hall (Pine and Park streets), ornate and
The French influence is still felt and heard today, particularly in
spired, which was completed in 1892.
Lewiston where many family names are French. The neighbor-
In the 1850s Irish immigrants populated the area south of
hood within Oxford, Lincoln, Cedar, and River streets is known as
Oxford and Lincoln streets, where some of their modest houses
"Little Canada." Lewiston, on the east side of the river, was settled
may still be seen. The area was also the site of the city's 1854
in the 1770s by Paul Hildreth, from Massachusetts. He built a log
gasworks, although a small brick Greek Revival office building and
cabin on the Androscoggin, and operated the first ferry. Lewiston
decorative iron framework that once contained a huge gas tank are
and Auburn grew steadily, as more arrivals from New England,
all that remain.
Europe, and Canada came to work in the mills.
Lewiston and Auburn's historic sites date from the cities' late-
On the quiet southern edge of Lewiston is Bates College.
Founded in 1855 as a Baptist seminary, it was named for Boston
nineteenth century industrial heyday and include handsome com-
benefactor Benjamin E. Bates in 1864, the same year that it became
mercial rows, mills built of granite and red brick, and some grand
one of the first coeducational colleges in New England. The
Victorian houses and churches.
school's oldest buildings are Hathorn Hall and Parker Hall, both
In Lewiston's Little Canada, the brick tenements of Continen-
designed by Gridley J.F. Bryant and both dating to the mid 1850s.
tal Mill Housing originally spanned many blocks of Oxford Street.
Two of the 1865 buildings survive, at numbers 66 to 82. The site of
One of the oldest structures in Auburn is the 1827 Edward Little
settler Hildreth's log cabin is now occupied by the Continental Mill
Mansion (Main and Vine, private), the Federal-style home of the
(Oxford Street), a massive structure combining French Empire and
man known as the city's founding father. Little inherited an enor-
Italian Renaissance styles. No longer an active mill, it is still readily
mous tract of land and did much to develop Auburn, establishing
identified by its high towers and long mansard roof. Across the
the local academy and Auburn's first church.
street is the Norman Gothic style St. Mary's Church, built of Maine
Auburn's commercial development during the 1870s and
granite in 1907. The 1882 Dominican Block (141 Lincoln Street,
1880s is evident along Main Street. The Roak Block, once known
private), a five-story Queen Anne-style building of brick and gran-
as "the cradle of the shoe industry," was named for Jacob Roak,
ite, housed the first school for French Canadians. It was designed
shoe manufacturer, banker, and developer. The industrial row-
by Lewiston's George M. Coombs, one of Maine's busiest architects
house is composed of nine distinct sections, designed to house nine
at the turn of the century.
separate manufacturing operations. Built in 1871, it extends nearly
Coombs also designed the Second Empire residence of U.S.
300 feet in length. Auburn's major textile mill, the 1873 Barker
Senator William P. Frye (453 Main, private), one of Lewiston's
Mill (Mill Street), is a decorative industrial facility, with mansard
grandest houses. One of Coombs's notable public commissions was
roof, brick relief, and pedimented windows.
the Romanesque Oak Street School, featuring elaborate interior
The city's high Victorian Gothic style is seen in the First
woodwork. In 1902, Coombs designed another Romanesque edi-
Universalist Church (Elm and Pleasant streets). Built in 1876, the
fice for the city, the public library on Park Street. Coombs also left
brick structure has a high steeple rising from a white, windowed
Lewiston its most exotic building, the Shriners' Kora Temple, a
tower. Two of Auburn's notable houses, both private, are the
Moorish, copper-domed structure on Sabattus Street.
Charles A. Jordan House (63 Academy Street), an 1880 Second
The Grand Trunk Railroad Station (Lincoln Street) is another
Empire mansion built by architect Jordan for himself, and the 1889
important landmark in the city's French-Canadian history-thou-
Charles L. Cushman House (8 Cushman Place), designed by
sands of immigrants arrived in Lewiston at the small, Shingle-style
George M. Coombs.
terminal, opened in 1874 on a new branch of the Montreal-to-
The oldest frame building in Auburn is the Knight House,
Portland line. Also of interest are the 1870 Savings Bank Block
built on the west bank of the Androscoggin in 1796 by a settler
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SOUTHERN MAINE
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205
named Caleb Lincoln. Bought in 1861 by Nathaniel Knight, a
butcher, the house stayed in the Knight family until 1918. Knight's
brother, John Adams, published a pro-Union newspaper in Eng-
land during the Civil War called The London American. Agricultural
implements, household utensils, clothing, documents, and photo-
graphs are displayed at the Androscoggin Historical Society (207-
784-0586) in the County Courthouse, built 1855-1857, at the
corner of Court and Turner streets. An 1882 monument to Union
soldiers of the Civil War stands on the courthouse grounds.
BRUNSWICK
In 1714 a group of Bostonians bought Brunswick in the Pejepscot
Purchase (named for the Indians who inhabited the area). Previous
settlements had disappeared, partially due to Indian raids, and in
Lovewell's War of 1722 another raid depleted the new settlement.
By 1727, however, settlement at Brunswick was stabilized, and the
town was incorporated in 1739. Its location at falls on the Andros-
coggin River, with easy access to the Atlantic Ocean, promised
industry and prosperity. The first dam across the river was built in
1753; Maine's first cotton mill was erected at Androscoggin Falls in
1809. The falls provided more than power-the waters were full of
Harriet Beecher Stowe wrote Uncle Tom's Cabin by candlelight in the kitchen of this
rambling Federal house.
salmon to be caught, cured, and shipped throughout New England
and overseas. Shipping, lumbering, and related industries also
Revealed Religions at Bowdoin College, she wrote her famous
flourished, and in 1802 Bowdoin College opened.
work, Uncle Tom's Cabin. The 1807 structure where the Stowes lived
The structures in the Federal Street Historic District (includ-
is now an inn.
ing Bowdoin College campus and Park Row), built in the early
St. Paul's Episcopal Church, at 27 Pleasant Street, is a modest
1800s in a variety of architectural styles, were restricted by a twen-
1845 work of Richard Upjohn. The same year, Upjohn designed
ty-foot setback and a two-story limit on buildings. The graciously
the First Parish Church (Main Street and Bath Road), a more
proportioned lots and wide streets further display the town plan-
characteristic example of the architect's Gothic Revival style.
ner's concern with appropriately exhibiting prosperity.
The century-old Pejepscot Historical Society (159 Park Row,
The Lincoln Street Historic District is an early example of lot
207-729-6606) owns two Victorian houses notable for their archi-
subdivisions. True to his orderly sense of urban growth, Dr. Isaac
tecture and their residents. The General Joshua L. Chamberlain
Lincoln made the lots an even four rods (66 feet) along the street; a
Civil War Museum (226 Maine Street), a simple single-story struc-
few corner lots were six rods and twenty links (112 feet), with
ture when it was built in 1820, was home to Henry Wadsworth
setbacks of sixteen links (10.5 feet). The lots were sold within
Longfellow when he taught at Bowdoin College in the 1830s.
fifteen months and the majority of dwellings built within two years,
Chamberlain-a Civil War hero at the Battle of Gettysburg, gover-
giving the district an architectural homogeneity indicative of the
nor of Maine, and president of Bowdoin-moved the house to its
mid-nineteenth century.
present location and enlarged it. Among Chamberlain's guests was
Harriet Beecher Stowe lived at 63 Federal Street from 1850 to
Ulysses S. Grant. Restored by the historical society, the house
about 1852. While her husband, Calvin Stowe, taught Natural and
contains period furniture and Civil War mementoes.
SOUTHERN MAINE
207
The Skolfield-Whittier House (161 Park Row), also adminis-
tered by the Society, is an Italianate double mansion topped by an
eight-sided cupola. It was built in 1858 by George Skolfield, grand-
son of Irish immigrants who came to Brunswick in 1739, and
founder of Brunswick's Skolfield Shipyard in 1801, for his two sons
and daughter. The two sides of the house mirror each other,
presenting a unified facade, but are split in the rear by an alleyway.
Skolfield descendants lived on the south side of the mansion for
over 100 years, and in 1982 they donated the house to the Pejeps-
cot Historical Society as a house museum, virtually unchanged
since the last half of the nineteenth century. The north side of the
mansion, altered extensively in the interior by its successive owners,
was purchased by the Society in 1983 and now houses the Pejeps-
cot Historical Museum. It contains exhibits on local history, furni-
ture, clothing, household items, and other collections illustrating
life in Brunswick from the eighteenth century to the present.
In its seventeen rooms, the south side of the Skolfield-Whittier
House Museum reflects three generations of life in Brunswick
while remaining true to its Victorian origins. The large drawing
room windows are hung with drapes of twill and velvet; also re-
maining are the twenty-four-candle Belgian chandeliers, an Eng-
lish rosewood piano, delicately needlepointed footstools, and a
porcelain French clock with matching vases. The seafaring nature
of the Skolfield and Whittier families is documented in paintings of
master shipbuilder George Skolfield and the Skolfield ship, Roger
Stewart, and the display of a ship's barometer used on many Atlan-
tic crossings by Captain Alfred Skolfield. The accumulations of
generations of this Yankee trading family add up to a rare trove of
nineteenth-century history: Mechanical toys, china-head dolls,
pots, pans, books, and ship's logs fill the shelves.
Bowdoin College
Chartered in 1794 and opened in 1802, Maine's oldest college is
named for James Bowdoin II, a Massachusetts governor whose son
generously endowed the liberal arts institution. Bowdoin College
has graduated a number of the country's foremost citizens, among
them Franklin Pierce, fourteenth president of the United States;
William Pitt Fessenden, secretary of the treasury under Lincoln;
OPPOSITE: The pantry in the Skolfield-Whittier House contains bowls, tin cups, and other
utensils owned by the family.
208
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
209
named for Nathaniel Hawthorne and Henry Wadsworth Longfel-
low, both members of the class of 1825. On the third floor the
library regularly mounts displays from its special collections of
Hawthorne and Longfellow manuscripts, books, pamphlets, and
memorabilia as well as examples from novelists Kenneth Roberts,
Kate Douglas Wiggins, Marguerite Yourcenar, and others.
Peary-Macmillan Arctic Museum
Administered by Bowdoin College, the Peary-Macmillan Arctic
Museum commemorates the explorations of Admirals Robert E.
Peary and Donald B. Macmillan, another pair of famous alumni,
classes of 1877 and 1898, respectively. Peary is best known for his
trip to the North Pole; some credit him with being the first man to
reach that point. He and his crew sailed from New York in July of
1908 on board the Roosevelt, harboring at Cape Sheridan in Sep-
tember and then continuing on sledges in February 1909. Macmil-
lan was his chief assistant on that trip, but his feet froze and he
could not complete the journey. When Peary, by his account,
A ca. 1840 print of the Bowdoin campus, viewed from the west, with Massachusetts Hall at
reached the Pole on April 6, 1909, his camp consisted of himself,
left. Newer buildings-and pine trees-have filled in the grounds.
Matthew Henson, and four Eskimos; the others had been sent back
as supplies dwindled.
Admiral Robert E. Peary; Nathaniel Hawthorne; Henry Wads-
The museum is divided into three sections. The first covers
worth Longfellow; and the noted abolitionist and Maine governor
Peary's early career in the tropics and the Arctic with documents,
John Albion Andrews.
photographs, navigational instruments, and other artifacts from
The public is welcome on the handsome 110-acre campus,
his expeditions. Stuffed musk oxen, polar bears, seals, and a walrus
which is part of the Federal Street Historic District. The represent-
are exhibited on a platform above the gallery.
ative architecture of the campus includes the work of Samuel
Peary's famous trek to the North Pole in 1908 to 1909 is
Melcher; Richard Upjohn; McKim, Mead & White; Hugh Steb-
bins; and Edward Larabee Barnes. Guided tours of the campus
covered in the second section of the museum, with in-depth exhib-
begin at the Moulton Union (207-725-3000).
its depicting the methods and equipment he used. Highlighted
artifacts include Macmillan's North Pole log and one of five sledges
Massachusetts Hall, the oldest building on campus, was de-
Peary took to the Pole. The box in which Peary carried his naviga-
signed by Aaron and Samuel Melcher and has a cornerstone dating
tional equipment, Macmillan's snowshoes, and their pickaxes,
from 1799, when construction began. As a result of financial dis-
guns, and fur garments are also on display. The fur outerwear was
tress suffered by the college in its early years, the building wasn't
Peary's adaptation of Inuit fur clothing worn in North Greenland.
completed until 1802. At that time it housed the entire college:
The recent release of Peary's North Pole journal has again cast
eight students, one teacher, and the president. Remodeled in the
controversy around his claim to be the first person to reach the
early 1870s and restored and altered in 1936, the building is
North Pole: His navigational errors and extraordinary speed re-
currently used for dormitory facilities but maintains its original
cords, in addition to information on Arctic weather patterns, cur-
Federal style exterior.
rents, and ice drifts, raise the possibility that Peary missed his goal
The Hawthorne-Longfellow Library, which contains 725,000
by as much as sixty miles. However, Peary's Arctic explorations are
volumes plus a fine collection of rare books and manuscripts, is
deservedly commemorated here.
SOUTHERN MAINE
SOUTHERN MAINE
211
210
The third part of the museum focuses on Macmillan, whose
HARPSWELL
career included twenty-seven Arctic expeditions, and on the Arctic
On a peninsula just east of Brunswick is Harpswell, a picturesque
in the first half of the twentieth century. Inuit soapstone and ivory
sea village. Orr's and Bailey's islands are off its shores. The
carvings, bone and antler tools, embroidered and beaded skin
Harpswell Meeting House, a simple clapboard structure built in
clothing, paintings, a full-size kayak, and an egg and bird collection
1757, is the oldest surviving meetinghouse in Maine.
help describe the area and the time. The cameras Macmillan used
After graduating from Bowdoin College in 1877, Robert E.
to capture the Arctic people and landscape are also on display.
Peary took a job in Washington with the Coast Survey. He took the
Bowdoin alumni have had a strong tie with exploration: In
opportunity to purchase an island in Casco Bay, off the mainland
1869 a Bowdoin professor crewed his ship with students while
at Harpswell, that he had explored as a youngster. He renamed the
sailing the coast of Labrador and Greenland. The museum is
island Eagle Island, perhaps in token of the first ship that took him
housed in Hubbard Hall, named for another Bowdoin alumnus
to the Arctic, the Eagle, and began to build a summer home in
and benefactor of both the college and Peary's Arctic adventures.
1904. The family spent much time here until Peary's death in 1920,
The designer of the museum, Ian M. White, accompanied Macmil-
and in 1966 the island was donated to the State of Maine by Peary's
lan on a trip to the Arctic in 1950.
daughter. The small, dramatic, rocky island, crossed by nature
LOCATION: Hubbard Hall, Bowdoin College. HOURS: 10-4 Tues-
trails, is accessible from a public landing pier, and the house (207-
day-Friday, 10-5 Saturday, 2-5 Sunday. FEE: None. TELEPHONE:
725-3416) contains Peary family furnishings, photographs from
207-725-3416.
explorations, and mounted animal specimens.
The Bowdoin College Museum of Art (207-725-3275), once
housed in various campus buildings-including the Chapel, de-
signed by Richard Upjohn-now occupies the Walker Art Build-
ing, an 1894 Beaux Arts edifice designed by Charles Follen McKim
of McKim, Mead & White. McKim commissioned artwork for the
four murals gracing the impressive rotunda to represent the "Four
Cities of Art," Athens, by John LaFarge; Florence, by Abbott
Thayer; Rome, by Elihu Vedder; and Venice, by Kenyon Cox.
In 1811 James Bowdoin III, first patron of the college and
Thomas Jefferson's foreign minister to France and Spain from
1805 to 1808, bequeathed his collection of old master drawings to
the school. Today the collection has been expanded to include the
Boyd Gallery of American Federal and Colonial portraits, silver,
and furniture; the Sophia Walker Gallery, housing American
painting and sculpture by John Sloan, Mary Cassatt, Marsden
Hartley, Daniel Chester French, and others; the large Winslow
Homer Gallery, with memorabilia, graphics, and paintings; a gal-
lery of European painting, sculpture, and decorative arts; and a
collection of Mediterranean objects and Oriental ceramics.
The 1849 Henry Boody House, now the dean's residence, is
named for the college's first professor of rhetoric and oratory. The
house, at 256 Maine Street, is conspicuous for its exuberant Car-
Janquish and Bailey's islands, Casco Bay.
penter Gothic exterior.
CH HAPTER SIX
THE
MAINE COAST
blishing
OPPOSITE: Relics of the shipbuilding era, the 1918 Hesper and the 1917 Luther Little, in
Firesset's harbor.
THE MAINE COAST
THE MAINE COAST
214
215
he Maine coast has long been known as one of the most
T
beautiful landscapes in America. In 1734 a Massachusetts
TRAVERSE SAILING,
visitor wrote that "All that Coast appears to be full of com-
modious Rivers, Bays, Harbours, Coves, and delightful Islands; the
EXAMPLE I,
most agreeable part of the Massachusetts Province, both for Scitua-
tion, Fishery, Lumber-Trade, and Culture; and highly worthy of
the Publick Care." More than a century earlier, the explorer Sam-
head mind sails the following Courses John
Jularid of Fequran and bound Nantira
uel de Champlain called the mouth of the Penobscot River "mar-
velous to behold," with its "numerous islands, rocks, shoals, banks,
Nantuchit Longiture Lite In the Bering and distance LD
and breakers on all sides." Marvelous it was, but dangerous as well:
Champlain had several mishaps on this coastline.
The first attempt to put down a permanent European colony
in the New World took place in far northern Maine-one of the
least hospitable places for such an endeavor. The French estab-
lished a colony on the St. Croix River in 1604, but the pioneers had
to give up after just a year. In the international tangle of royal land
grants, the territory from Pemaquid to the St. Croix River was part
of the colony of New York, granted to the Duke of York in 1664.
However, a 1667 treaty ceded the land between the Penobscot and
the St. Croix to France. It was soon occupied by the colorful Baron
Castin, who lived as a local potentate among the Indians, marrying
an Indian woman and carrying on a profitable trade in furs. Castin
led Indian raids against the English during King Philip's War but
was burned out of his house by an English attack in 1688. The land
between the Penobscot and the St. Croix became England's after
the French and Indian War.
During the Revolution, the coast of Maine was the site of the
Detail from an 1805 navigation book, hand-written and illustrated by Captain Francis Rittal
of Dresden, Maine.
war's first naval battle-a small affray in which the people of
Machias seized an English boat, the Margaretta-and an American
scraped across a bed of volcanic granite, carving and gouging
naval disaster on a much larger scale. A fleet of forty-four Massa-
ridges and U-shaped valleys and depositing large "erratic" boul-
chusetts ships attempted to take Fort George at Castine, and all of
ders. As the ice melted, the earth-freed of the great weight of
them were destroyed. One of the participants in the debacle was
ice-rose, as did the level of the ocean. The granite valleys were
Paul Revere. In the finger-pointing that followed, Revere was
flooded, but the peaks remained above water. Somes Sound, 168
accused of insubordination, unsoldierly conduct, and cowardice,
feet deep, is the only fjord on the east coast. In the nineteenth
but he was acquitted in a court martial. During the War of 1812 the
century, the beauty of this area attracted some of the country's
British captured Castine, rebuilt Fort George, and made it their
foremost landscape painters as well as thousands of wealthy sum-
coastal strongpoint-they controlled the coast from Penobscot to
mer visitors, who flocked to the fashionable resort at Bar Harbor.
the east throughout the war.
Acadia National Park preserves the rugged landscape of Mount
The spectacular scenery along the coast is actually a drowned
Desert Island, which was visited and named by Champlain.
in
mountain range, the creation of an ice age 13,000 to 15,000 years
This chapter begins at Bath and makes its way up the coast to
ago, when the ocean level was 300 to 500 feet lower. An ice sheet
Calais on the St. Croix River.
Calais
NEW BRUNSWICK
20 Mi.
St. Croix R.
Passamaguedity
Bay
Lastport
M
A
E
CAMPOBELLO
Lubec
BANGOR
R.
Machias
Machiasport
14
Columbia Falls
1
R.
Bucksping
Kennbee
UNITED STATES CANADA
0
Stockton Springs
Searsport
Belfast
3
Castine
Bar Harbor
Xr
Bay
1
SCHOODIC PT.
AUGUSTA
Acadia National Park
Sheepscot R.
OUNT DESERT ISLAND
DEER ISLL
(TH)
Camden
Rockport
Penobscot
Bay
MAINE TPKE
Stonington
Waldoboro
Alna
Rockland
as
1
Thomaston
95
Newcastle
Wiscasset
Damariscotta
ISLEAU HMA
Acadia N.B.
1
Bristol
ATLANTIC
Port Clyde
THE MAINE COAST
Bath
Boothbay
Boothbay
South Bristol 10
Harbor
9
a
Pemaquid
Point
OCEAN
INTERSTATE HIGHWAY
HISTORIC SITE
MONHEGAN ISLAND
in
Popham Beach
FORT
&
PARK
MID-COAST
219
MID-COAST: BATH TO CAMDEN
The road from Bath to Camden passes historic ports and islands,
shipbuilding centers, towns built up around sawmills and gristmills,
and fishing villages. The path is anything but direct, winding
through gently rolling hills and skirting seaside cliffs. Some agri-
culture is evident, from roadside stands selling squash and corn to
blueberries raked up in nearby fields.
BATH
Shipbuilding began early in the Bath area when English settlers
christened the thirty-ton Virginia near here in 1607. Along the
banks of the Kennebec River, Bath became a center for masting,
shipbuilding, and trade, accompanying the progress of many
Maine coastal towns. Various factors, however, lent the town the
strength to survive the Embargo of 1807 and the War of 1812.
Bath withstood the impact of the Embargo by building a healthy
trade relationship with New Orleans and the east coast of America.
Industrial diversification increased Bath's resources as iron found-
ing grew in the early 1800s, and the combination of iron and ships
gave the town a very prosperous nineteenth century. Italianate,
Greek, and Gothic Revival architectures testify to Bath's heyday,
especially in the North End, where prosperous shipbuilders made
their homes and the commercial district thrived.
Maine Maritime Museum
In 1762, Bath's first commercial shipyard opened. After the Civil
War, trade with foreign countries dropped off and, with it, the
building of ocean-crossing vessels. Coastal trading demanded a
different type of transport, and two Bath shipwrights, Samuel R.
Percy and Frank A. Small, knew how to build fine, wooden schoo-
ners, perfect for the new trade routes. From 1896 to the 1920s the
Percy and Small Shipyard produced over forty schooners and
gained a reputation for building some of the largest and finest
wooden ships on the coast.
MAINE
Today, the history and craftsmanship of Maine shipping and
shipbuilding are explored and re-created at the Museum Ship-
yard, on the site of the Percy and Small Shipyard. The Wyoming,
OPPOSITE: A replica of an 1830s double-masted pinky schooner, the Maine was launched by
Bath's Maine Maritime Museum Shipyard in 1985.
220
MID-COAST
MID-COAST
221
the largest wooden sailing vessel in America, was built here in 1909.
The tradition of fine boatbuilding craftsmanship continues
Maine. King also owned an 1809 stone cottage, one of the earliest
through the museum's apprenticeship program, and visitors can
Gothic Revival structures in America. On Whiskeag Road, it is now
privately owned.
view the apprentices at work on small boats, both specially commis-
sioned and for sale through the museum. Other exhibits at the
POPHAM
shipyard include models of classic boats, tools and instruments,
dioramas, trade goods, and seamen's possessions. Restored ship-
South from Bath, Route 209 winds through grassy marshland to
yard buildings such as an 1897 paint and trenail shop, an 1899 mill
the sea. The terminus of the road is Popham Beach, named for Sir
and joiner shop, and a 1905 pitch oven portray the shipbuilding
George Popham, who in 1607 led a band of his fellow Englishmen
industry, while lobstering and cod fishing are explored at a replica
to this protected harbor. Popham did not survive his first winter in
lobster cannery and on board the schooner Sherman Zwicker when
Maine, and his colony disbanded within a year-though not before
she is in port.
they had launched the Virginia, the first European ship built in the
The museum also operates the 1844 Georgian Revival Sewall
colonies and the vessel that inaugurated Bath's fame.
House, named for the prominent shipping family that bought it in
In 1775, Benedict Arnold set off from Popham on his daring
1898. On view here is a trove of maritime art, scrimshaw, ship
but ill-fated march against the British in Quebec. His expedition,
models and half models, navigational instruments, and sailors'
which had a good chance of conquering Canada, came to grief
mementoes, as well as displays on shipbuilding, seafaring families,
when a message from Arnold to another American officer fell into
and famous vessels of the Bath Iron Works.
British hands, spoiling Arnold's element of surprise. Markers chart
the 194-mile Arnold Trail to Coburn Gore on the Canadian bor-
LOCATION: Percy and Small Shipyard, 263 Washington Street; Sewall
House, 963 Washington Street. HOURS: Shipyard and House: Mid-May
der. From Popham the trail passes through Hallowell, Skowhegan,
Solon, Moscow, Stratton, and Sarampus.
through mid-October: 10-5 Daily; House (off season): 10-3 Monday-
Saturday, 1-4 Sunday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-443-1316.
Fort Popham, named for the nearby 1607 English settlement,
was built to fortify the mouth of the Kennebec River against Con-
Looming over Route 1, the Bath Iron Works (207-443-3311) grew
out of an 1826 foundry and remains active in shipbuilding. It is
open to the public for launching and commissioning ceremonies.
The 1843 Winter Street Church (Washington at Winter
Street), merging Gothic and Greek Revival styles, dominates the
town green. Its striking design was the work of local builder Anthony
C. Raymond. The soaring central steeple and solid temple facade
effectively unite the two styles of architecture, presenting one of
the finest examples of American Gothic in New England.
The unusual church at 804 Washington Street is the Gothic
Revival Chocolate Church, named for its brown color. Built in
1846, it has recently been rededicated as an arts center, with per-
formance space and an art gallery.
The Old Bath Custom House and Post Office (1 Front Street,
207-443-4282) was designed by Ammi Burnham Young in 1858
while he was supervising architect of the Treasury Department. In
the lobby is a model of the Bath waterfront as it appeared in the
1800s. The stone Italianate building stands on the site of the estate
of William King, a Bath shipbuilder who became first governor of,
Built in 1861, the granite-walled Fort Popham stands on a strategic site-where the Kennebec
13
River meets the sea-first fortified during the American Revolution.
222
MID-COAST
MID-COAST
223
federate and pro-Confederate European intervention at the begin-
Nickels-Sortwell House
ning of the Civil War. The semicircular granite structure faces the
One of New England's finest Federal houses, this grand three-story
river with thirty-foot walls, broken by two stories of vaulted case
house was built in 1807 by Captain William Nickels, a shipmaster
mates built to contain thirty-six cannon.
and local politician who made his fortune in lumber and shipping.
WISCASSET
Two-story pilasters frame the porticoed entry and its elliptical
fanlight. The interior is notable for the curved three-floor stairway,
North from Bath, Route 1 leads straight through picturesque Wis-
lit from a skylight, and handsomely carved woodwork throughout.
casset. First settled as a section of the larger town of Pownalbor
After Nickels' death in 1815 the house became Wiscasset's best
ough in the early 1700s, Wiscasset was abandoned during the
inn, variously known as Turner's Tavern, Mansion House, Belle
Indian wars of that time, and resettled around 1730. By 1795
Haven, and Wiscasset House. It fell into disrepair and was bought
Wiscasset was a town of wealth and prosperity. Its riches came from
in 1900 by Alvin F. Sortwell, then mayor of Cambridge, Massachu-
the post-Revolutionary War lumbering and shipping that aided
setts, and made into his summer home. The Sortwells restored the
many of Maine's coastal towns. Along with these towns, Wiscasset
house and refurnished it to reflect its Federal origins. The house
was badly hurt by the 1807 Embargo Act and the War of 1812. But
now belongs to the Society for the Preservation of New England
during the years of lucrative commerce the citizens of Wiscasset
Antiquities, which maintains the property as a museum.
built many large homes and mansions reflecting the wealth and
LOCATION: Main and Federal streets. HOURS: June through Septem-
prestige of shipping merchants and lumber barons. Many of these
ber: 12-5 Wednesday-Sunday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 617-227-
are to be found within Wiscasset's historic district, encompassing
3956.
the village and waterfront.
Down Federal Street from the Nickels-Sortwell House is the unusu-
al octagonal Captain George Scott House (private), built in 1855 by
the nineteenth-century shipmaster to plans of Orson Squire
Fowler, a phrenologist and proponent of octagonal dwellings. The
brick house is in the gracious Italianate style with sandstone and
granite window sills and lintels.
The 1807 Red Brick Schoolhouse (Warren Street) is also part
of Wiscasset's historic district. Used as a school until 1923, it has
since functioned in various capacities. The one-time Customs
House and Post Office (Water Street), now a private residence, has
retained its 1870 brick-and-granite Italianate exterior. The Lin-
coln County Museum and Old Jail (207-882-6817) on Federal
Street features exhibits on local history that highlight textiles and
samplers, photographs of the area, scrimshaw, and Indian arti-
facts. Two structures make up this site. The jail was built between
1809 and 1811 to accommodate the rowdy seamen and woodsmen
attracted to the boom port town. Its walls are built of granite up to
forty-one inches thick. The brick jailer's house (1839) was built to
replace a previous wooden one that burned down. The kitchen has
dishir
been restored to its 1840s appearance, and antique farming and
carpentering tools are on display in the tool shed. The jail was in
The 1807 Old Academy Building, Wiscasset, above the Sheepscot River.
use until 1953.
224
MID-COAST
MID-COAST
225
As hostilities between these two countries escalated and England
threatened to impound U.S. ships entering French ports, Congress
passed the Embargo Act of 1807, which closed all American ports.
Built in 1808, Fort Edgecomb was one of many defenses autho-
rized by Congress in response to feared English reprisals. When
news of war reached Fort Edgecomb in 1812, the U.S. colors were
raised and guns fired, but never in battle. One soldier stationed at
reported are coming with an intent to destroy this fort and Wiscas- it is
Fort Edgecomb in 1814 noted in his diary, "The enemy
set," and the British ship Bulwark spent that summer harassing the
Maine coast. With news of peace in 1815, the guns fired again. The
Tallahassee sailed into northern waters, but once again, no action
fort was quickly garrisoned in 1864 when the Confederate ship
was needed.
Today the two-story octagonal blockhouse of massive timber
and the semicircular earthworks remain within the stockade, which
was reconstructed in 1961. Two stone bastions along the river are
connected by a curved stone wall. Harbor seals are often seen here
in the Sheepscot River.
9-sunset. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-882-7777.
LOCATION: Davis Island. HOURS: Memorial Day through Labor Day:
Probably designed to recall a Scottish castle, the Lec-Tucker House is celebrated for its mid-
nineteenth-century sea captain's furnishings and freestanding spiral staircase.
Overlooking Wiscasset Harbor, the Lee-Tucker House, locally
BOOTHBAY
known as Castle Tucker (Lee and High streets, 207-882-7364),
was built by Judge Silas Lee in 1807. Heavily mortgaged to three
English settlements sprang up in and around this harbor after
neighbors, the house had a variety of occupants until 1858 when it
Captain John Smith sailed up from Jamestown in 1614 and pro-
passed to Captain Richard H. Tucker, Jr., third generation of
nounced it an "ideal" fishing station. The town grew first as a
Wiscasset ship captains and owners. He added the portico in 1860
seaport, then as a shipbuilding center. Fishing and shipbuilding are
and purchased most of the furnishings now on view. It is still in the
possession of his descendants.
been a popular resort.
still active in Boothbay, and since the nineteenth century it has
Slowly deteriorating in the river harbor are the hulls of two
In 1937 a theater was started to entertain the summer resi-
schooners. Side by side, the 1918 Hesper and the 1917 Luther Little
dents, an offshoot of which became the country's first museum
are believed to be the last four-masted schooners built in New
exclusively devoted to theater, established in 1957. The Boothbay
England.
Theatre Museum (Corey Lane, 207-633-4536) occupies the 1784
Federal house of Nicholas Knight, one of the town's first settlers.
FORT EDGECOMB
The museum collections date from the eighteenth century to the
Just east of Wiscasset, across the Sheepscot River on the tip of Davis
present, encompassing American theater scale models, portraits,
Island, is Fort Edgecomb. In the early nineteenth century, Wiscas-
photographs, playbills, set models, costumes, stage jewelry, and
lishing
set's prosperity lay in shipping to and from England and France.
holograph material. South of the village proper is Boothbay Har-
bor, known for its lighthouse, the 1822 Burnt Island Light Station.
226
MID-COAST
MID-COAST
227
although the majority of the
the Instian libigo visited by members of
the Popham colons III 11:07. ill which time they recorded the name
of the area as Remaquid 11 Cirtinial remaquid (Route 130. 207-
677-2123). the site of an early-seventeenth-century English settle-
ment. archaeologists have excavated household items, farming im-
plements, stone foundations, and walls.
The settlement is part of a state historic site along with Fort
William Henry, also on Pemaquid Point. The foundations of the
original fort, built by English settlers in 1692 to ward off Indians,
pirates, and their French rivals, are here along with a modern
replica of the circular, crenelated fort, resembling the stout tower
of a medieval castle. Historical artifacts are also on display.
The Pemaquid Lighthouse was erected in 1827; its lower
rebuilt eight years later. In 1857 the original stone keeper's house was
Fishermen's Museum (207-677-2494). Maine's 400-year-old fish-
was replaced by the present wooden structure, now occupied by the
harpoons, anchors, and nets.
ing industry is illuminated by old charts, photographs, ship models,
Though the English are credited with its discovery in the late fifteenth century, Monhegan
Island was probably visited by Vikings 500 years earlier.
Meeting House (Old-Harrington Road, 207-529-5578). It has
Representative of the eighteenth century is the Harrington
MONHEGAN ISLAND
Situated to the northeast of Boothbay Harbor in the Atlantic
Ocean, this island was recorded by John Cabot in 1498. In 1614
Captain John Smith landed here, and his favorable accounts prob-
ably hastened settlement, which came in 1625. Abundant fishing
has maintained a permanent community here since 1674.
In 1822 Congress appropriated $3,000 to build the Monhegan
lighthouse and keeper's quarters. First illuminated on July 2,
1824, the light was supervised by a keeper until it was automated in
1959. The lighthouse and its outbuildings are now part of a muse-
um with exhibits on the historical, natural, and economic features
of the island. Monhegan Island may be reached from the mainland
by ferry from Boothbay Harbor and Port Clyde.
BRISTOL>
A center of archaeological activity, Bristol is the location of the
shing
Nahanda Village Site, a prehistoric coastal Indian encampment. It
is believed that the camp was occupied as much as 2,000 years ago,
American (detail). artist Edward Hopper painted this view of the Pemaquid Lighthouse in the 1920s
MID-COAST
MID-COAST
229
228
been restored to its 1772 condition, complete with original box
WALDOBORO
That same year, the citizens of Bristol built the Walpole Bristol.
A German settlement dating from 1748, Waldoboro lies just inland
pews. meeting house (Route 129) for its sister settlement, South reflects
on the Medomak River, protected from the sea while having imme-
First a Presbyterian, then a Congregational, church, it hand-
diate access to it. Shipbuilding was a major industry here, and five-
superior colonial workmanship inside and out: Even the and
masted schooners sailed out of local shipyards. Waldoboro's early
shaved roof shingles are intact (and still watertight). The pulpit
German heritage resonates in the Old German Church (Route 32,
box pews are original, handcrafted by Bristol cabinetmakers.
off Route 1), built on the Medomak River in 1772. For many years
Slightly farther out Route 129 is the Thompson Ice House, 150
its services were conducted in German.
facing a South Bristol pond where ice was harvested for over far
The Waldoborough Historical Society Museum (Route 220,
from 1826 to 1986. Ice from this spot was shipped as walls. as
near Route 1) administers a complex of three buildings, including
years, South America. Nine inches of sawdust insulate the double
the Town Pound, a rough stone corral put up to contain wander-
Modern refrigeration has all but ended this Maine industry, which The
ing livestock. Such pounds were common throughout Maine in the
once supplied the nation with 3 million tons of ice each year.
early nineteenth century; this one, an 1819 renovation of a 1785
structure is undergoing restoration (1988) and will reopen as a
original, is a well-preserved example. The museum also maintains
museum.
a restored country school, farm kitchen, and a collection of ship-
ping memorabilia, tools, documents, and photographs.
DAMARISCOTTA
Farther the Bristol peninsula is Damariscotta, settled on the the
THOMASTON
shore up of the Damariscotta River in 1625. Its location at
head eastern of navigable waters encouraged shipbuilding, which brought 1845
East of Waldoboro the coastal lands open up, rolling gently to the
sea. Thomaston, a trading post in 1630, withstood Indian attacks to
prosperity to the town in the nineteenth century. A fire in
grow into a town with a lively economy based on shipping, lime
destroyed most of the town's early buildings, but their replace- the
ments, built during the shipbuilding boom, remain intact one-and- as
Main Street Historic District. Also on Main Street is the
a-half-story Chapman-Hall House, built in 1754 by Nathaniel and
Chapman. Constructed of wood, with a cedar-shingle rooftop and
small-paned windows, the house has a central entrance and a
central brick chimney. The interior consists of pine panelling old-
wide-board spruce and pine floors. The house, Damariscotta's
est surviving building, is open to the public; exhibits include photo-
graphs of ships built on Damariscotta River during the period
1754-1820 and small models of ships.
Also in the historic district is the 1802 Federal style Matthew
Cottrill House (private). Cottrill, an Irish immigrant, became one
of Damariscotta's premier merchants. The architect, Nicholas Catholic
Codd, an Irishman himself, also designed the oldest
church in New England, St. Patrick's, on Academy Road in nearby The
Newcastle. Irish immigrants founded the parish in 1796. died.
After serving as George Washington's first secretary of war, Henry Knox retired to Thomaston
steeple houses a Paul Revere bell cast in 1818, the year he
and built Montpelier.
that
230
MID-COAST
COAST
231
of
then-early-eighteenth-century English settlers recorded its local
Indian name as "Great Landing Place." Through the 1800s, the
town grew with shipbuilding and limestone quarrying; the twenti-
eth century brought the resort business, which, unlike its predeces-
sors, continues to thrive.
Farnsworth Homestead
One of Maine's great houses, this Greek Revival townhouse was
built in 1854 by Rockland's most prominent businessman, William
Parnsworth. It was inherited by his surviving child the reclusive
and excentric who fred Et be DE. Although Wiss
Fanswich regerred in base its et rehind directions in it
family NOR m² the means to imme Am IN mail # s ***
house. museum. and Shan made the museum) Name
collection .4 especially strong in American are and the decorative
Montpelier's eighteen rooms are furnished with the Knox family's belongings, including a ca.
arts of the eighteenth and nineteench conturies. its NAture ill
1785 mirror fronted bookcase and ca. 1795 Windsor chairs, made in Philadelphia.
buidings of European and Oriental in difects.
processing, and cask making. The town got a champion with the
Tuesday-Saturday, 1-5 Sunday. June through September: 10-5
LOCATION: 19 Elm Street. HOURS: October through May: 10-5
arrival of Major General Henry Knox, honored veteran of Bunker
Hill and the nation's first secretary of war.
6457. Monday-Saturday, 1-5 Sunday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-596-
A replica of Knox's elegant home, Montpelier (Route 131,
207-354-8062), is one of Thomaston's best-visited sites. The mak-
ing of the Federal house was apparently a 1793 collaboration
between famed Boston architect Charles Bulfinch and Knox, who
specified such details as an oval parlor, flying staircase, and clere-
story windows. The original house, completed in 1795, was badly
neglected after it was abandoned by Knox descendants in the
1850s, and it was finally razed later that century. The reproduc-
tion, exact in countless details, contains many Knox family trea-
sures, including Colonial and Federal furniture.
The houses in Thomaston's historic district date from the
nineteenth century, when the town was a bustling port. Fine exam-
ples of the Federal, Greek Revival, Gothic Revival, Italianate, and
Second Empire styles, built by prosperous seafaring families, line
the quiet streets of the district.
ROCKLAND
Once part of Thomaston, Rockland was incorporated as its own
town in 1854. Marine enterprise naturally figured here long before
The Farnsworth Homestead kitchen, equipped with a slate sink.
232
MID COAST
nat
ROCKPORT
Once part of a single municipality with Camden, Rockport has
been a separate town since 1891, linked by Route 1. The smaller of
the two is Rockport, a longtime exporter of canned sardines, pick:
dest
30ml
1
Insury
for saimaking and the manufacture of lime used IIT mortar and
plaster. The Rockport Lime Kilns produced 2 million casks of the
powder in the 1880s and 1890s, when Maine led the country in
lime production. A few of the old fieldstone-and-brick kilns still
stand on the Rockport Waterfront. As the larger coastal towns took
over lime production, Rockport turned to the development of its
harbor, which remains a favorite among yachtsmen.
CAMDEN
To some, Camden marks the beginning of Maine's mountainous
landscape-the local saying is that the town rests "where the moun-
tains meet the sea." To Captain John Smith in 1614, it was the place
"under the high mountains
against whose feet the sea doth
beat." Camden was one of Maine's earliest resorts, attracting sea-
sonal residents as early as the 1830s. By the turn of the century the
town was a favorite among the very rich who wanted nothing
simple when it came to summer "cottages." One of the grandest of
Maine's late-nineteenth-century houses is Norumbega (61 High
Street, private), built by rags-to-riches millionaire Joseph P.
Stearns. His baronial villa and Queen Anne style carriage house are
fine examples of the resort lifestyle. The gable-roofed 1904 Ameri-
can Boathouse (Atlantic Avenue, 207-236-8500) is another re-
minder of the country's Gilded Age, when wealthy and often ec-
centric sportsmen built elaborate shelters for their yachts. In 1926
a prominent seasonal resident, Cyrus H. K. Curtis, publisher of the
Saturday Evening Post, gave the town the property on which the
Camden Yacht Club is situated (Bay View Street, 207-236-3014).
The Conway House (Conway Road, 207-236-2257) affords a
glimpse into Camden's more distant past. The ca. 1770 frame
farmhouse still has its brick oven and original hand-hewn wood-
work. The house is part of a complex, also including a barn,
blacksmith shop, and a museum.
OPPOSITE: Among Camden's opulent private houses is Norumbega, named for Maine's
mythical land of riches. OVERLEAF: Seen from Mount Battie, white houses and white boats
dot the town of Camden and Penobscot Bay.
236
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
237
The landscape varies in the northern stretch of the Maine coast,
envique
ships
and
1850 drugstore counter.
from the green farmlands around Belfast to the rocky promonto-
ries of Lubec and Eastport to the flat river harbor of Calais. Histo-
rians have suggested that these are the coastlands first explored by
SEARSPORT
the Vikings. Certainly they were known to such later adventurers
A few miles up the coast from Belfast is Searsport. settled in the
as Samuel de Champlain, John Cabot, and Captain John Smith.
1760s by soldiers from nearby Fort Pownal. The town took hold
East of the resort islands of Deer Isle and Mount Desert, the Maine
quickly, with shipbuilding an established industry by the early
landscape opens up-it is a rougher, scrubbier land than that
1790s. Set on a rolling green landscape, Searsport seems less bucol-
which lies to the south. The ocean, too, seems more powerful this
ic than a serious seaport town, with its heavy granite buildings
far out; the tides here are among the highest in the world.
expressing the confidence that they could match whatever the
stormy seas might toss ashore.
BELFAST
Named by the Scotch-Irish who landed here in 1770, Belfast is
Penobscot Marine Museum
sited on Penobscot Bay. Scattered during the Revolution, the Bel-
Seven nineteenth-century structures form this reminder of Sear-
fast settlers regrouped and were thriving by the end of the 1780s.
sport's heritage in the heyday of Maine shipping. Some 250 sailing
Fishing was their mainstay, as well as agricultural enterprises; Bel-
vessels and 286 sea captains came from this community. The muse-
fast is still a major poultry producer. Tied to Bangor by waterways
um complex includes the Searsport Town Hall and four sea cap-
and later by the railroads, Belfast was an important market and
tain's homes. Three other buildings display navigational and ship-
port for inland potato growers and lumbermen throughout the
nineteenth century. Its prime location on the bay and the Passa-
Orient. building tools, whaling and fishing artifacts, and treasures from the
gassawakeag River encouraged shipping and shipbuilding.
Many buildings survived from this prosperous period in Bel-
LOCATION: Church Street. HOURS: May through October: 9:30-5
fast's Commercial Historic District (Main Street). Chief among
Daily. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-548-2529.
these are the elaborate 1879 Belfast National Bank and the 1878
Gothic Masonic Temple by George M. Harding; the 1856 Post
FORT KNOX
Office and Custom House (120 Main Street) by architect Ammi B.
Young; and the Waldo County Courthouse (73 Church Street) by
Named for Thomaston's Henry Knox, this fortification was meant
Benjamin S. Dean.
The Federal-style First Church in Belfast (6 Court Street,
the Maine-New Brunswick boundary disputes with Britain in the
to protect the vulnerable and vital Penobscot River Valley during
207-338-2282), built in 1818, is part of the Church Street Historic
1840s. The enormous structure, measuring 350 by 250 feet, with
District. The homes of this residential area reflect the affluence of
walls 40 feet thick, took twenty years to complete. Union soldiers
this port city during the 1800s. A fine example is the 1842 James
trained here during the Civil War. The first of Maine's granite
Petterson White House (1 Church Street, private). The architect
forts, the massive complex was strategically situated on the west
Calvin A. Ryder modified the temple form of the Greek Revival
bank of the Penobscot, the gateway to Bangor. Original equipment
style to create a sophisticated mansion for one of Belfast's leading
includes ten-inch and fifteen-inch Rodman cannons, and two hot-
citizens. In the early 1800s most of the town's wealthy businessmen
shot furnaces. The soldiers' quarters, batteries, parade ground,
built their homes on Primrose Hill, where Church and High
bakery, powder magazines, and storerooms may be toured.
streets come together; from here they could overlook the prosper-
ity they promoted. This grouping of residences is now a historic
LOCATION: Route 174, Prospect. HOURS: May through October: 9
AM-Dusk Daily. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-469-7719.
238
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
239
This nineteenth-century view of Owl's Head, a resort village south of Rockport in
Penobscot Bay, was painted by American artist Fitz Hugh Lane.
CASTINE
A delay in action allowed time for British reinforcements to arrive.
Facing Belfast across the Penobscot Bay, Castine is named for the
None of the American vessels survived-they were either sunk,
Baron Castin, who arrived from Quebec in the 1670s to take over
abandoned, or taken over by the better-prepared British in one of
the trading post for France. He did so handily, winning it from the
the worst defeats in American naval history. One of the shipwrecks,
English, whose first claim on the spot came in 1629, and the Dutch,
the Defense, is the subject of ongoing archaeological study, and the
who briefly occupied it in the 1670s. Castin's life, as it has been
well-preserved earthwork foundations of Fort George may be
recounted over the years, was one legendary adventure after an-
toured. Castine is one of the prettiest of Maine's coastal towns,
other. An impoverished nobleman, he arrived in New France,
preserving many nineteenth-century buildings along Main and
determined to claim a royal land grant made to his family. He
Perkins streets. By the docks on Water Street, at the foot of Main,
befriended the Abenaki Indians, canoeing from Quebec to the
are several late-eighteenth-century brick commercial buildings. At
mouth of the Penobscot. Along the way the teenage baron took on
the end of Battle Street, Dyces Head Lighthouse, built in 1828,
overlooks the Penobscot River.
the Abenaki ways and eventually married into the tribe. Castin held
his claim for about twenty years until English colonists won it back
while the Frenchman was off on a fishing trip with his Indian
The Wilson Museum
family and friends.
This complex on Perkins Street includes the one pre-Revolutionary
The British again took over the town of Castine in 1779,
War house to survive in the Castine area, the ca. 1763 John Perkins
ning
building Fort George (Wadsworth Cove Road) to keep their hold
House. Framed by hand-hewn timbers and constructed with hand-
on the strategic Penobscot Bay. Revolutionaries sailed up from
forged nails, the house was occupied by the British during the
Boston that year, two thousand strong in a fleet of forty-four ships.
Revolution and again during the War of 1812. It is now restored
240
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
241
dates from 1794; the First Baptist Church was built in 1823. Brook-
lin was chartered in 1859 on land that originally was part of
Sedgwick. The Sedgwick-Brooklin Historical Society occupies the
Cor
1795 Reverend Daniel Merrill House (Route 172, 207-359-8930).
The house contains various artifacts from the area's early settle-
ment years, and horse-drawn hearses are on display. Recently
moved to the grounds is an 1874 one-room schoolhouse.
At the end of the peninsula, at Naskeag Point, a granite marker
commemorates a 1778 British raid, apparently provoked by a Pa-
troit who fired upon a passing ship, killing a sailor.
DEER ISLE
Granite quarrying and sardine canning were the founding busi-
nesses of Deer Isle, which attracted a resort trade in the late
nineteenth century. The high seas lap up to these jagged shores,
and legend has it that Deer Isle drew more than its share of
smugglers, pirates, and slave runners. Worn memorial stones in
the island's cemeteries honor sea captains and sailors lost off the
coasts of Africa, China, and Greenland.
Perkins House, now part of the Wilson Museum complex on Castine's harbor. The town's
One of Deer Isle's earliest houses is the 1775 Reverend Peter
earliest house, it was designed with a Tuscan front doorway.
Powers House (Sunshine Road, private), a gift from the First
Congregational Church to its new minister. The islanders found a
and furnished with late-eighteenth-century items. The museum,
staunch defender of American independence in Powers, who had
which is administered by the Castine Scientific Society, also in-
cludes permanent exhibitions of prehistoric artifacts from North
been hounded out of New Hampshire by his Tory congregation.
and South America, Europe, and Africa. Displays follow the
The Deer Isle-Stonington Historical Society maintains the
1830 Salome Sellers House, which has been restored and fur-
growth of the human ability to fashion and use tools. Ship models,
farm and home equipment, Victorian-era memorabilia, and local
nished with original and period items. Antique farm, quarry, and
carpenter's tools are on display in the toolroom. An exhibit build-
historic items are also on display. Special emphasis is given to the
North American Indian tribes native to northern New England.
ing contains displays of ship models, compasses, telescopes, and
other local and maritime items.
Also on the grounds is a working blacksmith shop.
LOCATION: Perkins Street. HOURS: Memorial Day through Septem-
BLUE HILL
ber: 2-5 Tuesday-Sunday. FEE: For Perkins House.
A group from Andover, Massachusetts, settled the undulating
western shore of Blue Hill Bay in 1762 and went to work as
SEDGWICK-BROOKLIN
lumbermen and fishermen. In the nineteenth century, shipbuilding
Sedgwick is named for Major Robert Sedgwick, who routed the
and overseas trade brought some wealth to the town, and the
French from Penobscot Bay in 1654. More than a century later the
discovery of copper in 1876 ushered in a mining boom. Starting
town was incorporated and grew with fishing and farming. A 1790
about the same time, granite quarries were opened. Many eigh-
boat launching inaugurated shipbuilding. The town's cemetery
teenth- and nineteenth-century houses, as well as public and com-
mercial buildings, overlook the harbor, forming a historic district
242
THE NORTHERN COAST
that includes the Holt House (Water Street a resisted Féderal
residence. Administered by the Blue Hill Historical Society, it is
noteworthy for local memorabilia and its stenciled wall decorations.
The carriage house holds examples of early local industries.
Blue Hill's first minister was Jonathan Fisher, who came here
in 1796. Fisher was a linguist, printer, inventor, gifted artisan, and
painter who built and furnished his 1815 house largely by himself.
His house is now open as the Jonathan Fisher Memorial (Main
Street, 207-374-2757).
ELLSWORTH
Since its founding in 1763, Ellsworth has made the most of the
sixty-foot Union River Falls. Sawmills and shipbuilding flourished
here. With its spire and colonnade, the Ellsworth Congregational
Church (Cross Street) has been the focal point of the town since
1846, when the edifice went up on a hill above the Union River.
Equally impressive are the pair of Old Hancock County Buildings,
stout Greek Revival landmarks on Cross Street. Probably the most
famous site in Ellsworth is the Colonel Black Mansion (West Main
Street, 207-667-8671), built by John Black, who came from Eng-
land at the age of 13 to be the clerk of the great Bingham Estate in
The Black Mansion introduced Georgian formality to the mill town of Ellsworth. OPPOSITE:
Portraits hang over the mansion's beautifully wrought staircase.
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
244
245
Maine. He became agent in 1810 and later general agent, a position
The transformation of Mount Desert Island from an island of
he held until his son was appointed in his place in 1850. Black
small towns to a popular resort began in the 1850s, with the advent
spared no expense on his stately home, importing its distinctive red
of regular steamboat runs from the mainland. The painter Thom-
bricks from Philadelphia-the 1826 residence could be a Georgian
as Cole, founder of the Hudson River School, was one of the first to
townhouse on Rittenhouse Square. The rooms of period furniture
discover the spectacular scenery on the island; he came here to
porcelain, and glass; the carriage house: and the gardens are open
paint in the summer, and other artists and writers soon joined him.
The
Painic
Limay
fre
3:07
Seth
Tisdale
House, named for its owner, celebrated locally for his service in the
Revolutionary War. The Ellsworth Historical Society on State
in the cin. By the and of the nineteenth Century, main of the
Street is headquartered in the brick-and-granite Old Jail, built as
richest families in the country-the Astors, the Vanderbilts, the
the county jail and sheriff's residence in 1886. The Stanwood
Rockefellers-had built summer homes on the island. Referred to
Wildlife Sanctuary (Route 3, 207-667-8460) includes a Cape
somewhat disingenuously as "cottages," many of these houses were
Cod-style house built in 1850 by Ellsworth sea captain Roswell
more on the order of mansions.
Stanwood. It passed to his daughter, Cordelia, an ornithologist and
Efforts to preserve the natural beauty of the island began in
photographer. A bird sanctuary was later established on the
the early 1900s, when a group of summer residents, led by Boston
grounds. The homestead and sanctuary are open year-round.
millionaire George Dorr, began acquiring land. By 1913. they had
MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
accumulated about 6,000 acres, which they donated to the federal
government. In 1919, this land was made a national park, which
Maine has been called the land of a thousands islands, a claim
has continued to grow as a result of additional donations. Known
upheld by Mt. Desert's abundance of satellites, many of them with
today as Acadia National Park, it now coyers some 38,000 acres,
charming names: Burnt Porcupine, Egg Rock, Ironbound, Turtle,
encompassing a large area of Mount Desert Island, portions of
Rum Key, Cranberry, Little Duck. Geological forces have formed
several smaller islands, and part of Schoodic Peninsula.
Mt. Desert itself into perhaps the single most dramatic natural
The first permanent settlement on Mt. Desert was Somesville,
setting in the state, with its hills-one of them a 1500-foot "moun-
a nine-family hamlet established in 1759 by the Massachusetts
tain"-craggy seaside cliffs, lakes, and heavily forested interior.
governor. Somesville's white-painted Victorian houses range in
The island, it seems, has always been known for its terrain: the
style from the simple to the exuberant, meshing with the scenery as
Abenaki Indians who came over from the mainland to fish and
if they had grown from the ground. It is a beautiful spot, probably
gather shellfish on the island called it Pemetic, "the sloping land."
the first place on the island to be discovered by artists and "rustica-
When Samuel de Champlain landed here in 1604, he looked to the
tors," as the city folk who sought seasonal country comforts and
rugged mountaintops and named it "L'isle des monts deserts," the
Atlantic air were known. Thomas Cole and Frederic Church, an-
"Isle of bare mountains."
other Hudson River School painter, were among Somesville's visi-
The first open clash between the French and the English over
tors in the 1850s.
territory in the New World took place here in 1613, when the
The Mount Desert Island Historical Society Museum (oppo-
English explorer Samuel Argall burned a Jesuit mission and took
site the mill pond, 207-244-3898) is in Somesville, and its collec-
the survivors captive, selling some into slavery and casting the rest
tion of maps, deeds, and various artifacts sets forth a colorful local
adrift on the open sea. Disputes over the island continued until the
history. The Society maintains a list of landmarks in the island's
English finally gained control of it in 1760, in the French and
communities, including Northeast Harbor, Bernard, and Tre-
Indian War. After the Revolution, the settlers prospered on log-
mont. In addition, information is available on Islesford, Southwest
ging, fishing, farming, and shipbuilding.
Harbor, and the Cranberry Isles.
246
THE NORTHERN COAST
BAR HARBOR
In its heyday, this scenic town rivaled even fashionable Newport as
a mecca for the rich and socially prominent; it remains popular
today, and many extravagant and stately houses still stand as re-
minders of the Gilded Age. Artists and other visitors began coming
here in the 1850s, boarding with the villagers. In 1855, the Aga-
mont House was opened as an inn for summer residents, and the
local economy began to shift from fishing and shipbuilding to the
care and feeding of city folk.
The first summer residence, Petunia Cottage (West Street);
was built in 1877 for the express purpose of renting to vacationers
but was soon bought by physician and author S. Weir Mitchell.
Soon, the off-islanders began building their own homes, usually on
a grand scale. Many of the houses were designed by prominent
Boston and New York architects, and a variety of styles are repre-
sented. Redwood (Bayberry Lane), built in 1879, is one of the
earliest Shingle-style houses in the United States. Other notable
houses include the magnificent Colonial Revival Reverie Cove
(Harbor Lane), built in 1895; The Turrets (Eden Street), an 1895
granite cottage done in the Chateauesque style; the 1910 Eogonos
(Eden Street), designed by Guy Lowell, architect of the Boston
Museum of Fine Arts; and La Rochelle (West Street), a 1903
French Renaissance mansion. The 1932 Criterion Theatre, an art
deco movie palace, is one of the finest examples of this style in the
country. The history of Bar Harbor is documented in photo-
graphs, hotel registers, and other memorabilia in the Bar Harbor
Historical Society Museum (34 Mt. Desert Street, 207-288-4245).
Abbe Museum
Overlooking the wild gardens of Acadia is the Abbe Museum. A
New York surgeon, Robert Abbe amassed great collections of pre-
historic artifacts during his summers in Bar Harbor, and in 1926
he built a museum to house them. Most of the exhibits represent
Northeast American Indians, including the Passamaquoddy and
Penobscot tribes: arrowheads and stone implements, baskets of
birchbark and sweet grass, tools and ornaments of bone.
LOCATION: Route 3. HOURS: Mid-May through June: 10-4 Daily.
July through August: 9-5 Daily. September through mid-December:
10-4 Daily. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-288-3519.
OPPOSITE: Basketry from the Abbe Museum collection.
248
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
249
COLUMBIA FALLS
Co
The early nineteenth-century prosperity of Columbia Falls is evi-
dent in one of Maine's most beautiful residences, the Thomas
Ruggles House (Route 1, 207-483-4637), named for the local
jack-of-all-trades-Ruggles was a judge, lumber magnate, owner of
de
a general store, and postmaster. His house, built in 1818, is one of
understated elegance. Its celebrated flying staircase and detailed
interior woodwork, often said to be the work of an English crafts-
man using a single penknife, are more likely the work of New
England woodcarver Alvah Peterson. The delicate woodwork of
the 1820 Samuel Bucknam House (Route 1, private) is also attrib-
uted to Peterson. Bucknam's grandfather, Revolutionary officer
John Bucknam, was one of Columbia Falls's first settlers; the Cap-
tain John Bucknam House (Route 1, private), built in 1792, is one
of the oldest in Columbia Falls.
Ro
MACHIAS
the
The small coastal town of Machias was the scene of the first naval
battle of the Revolution, in June 1775. The townspeople, stirred by
Sm
the recent events at Lexington and Concord, refused to supply a
the
British schooner, the Margaretta, with lumber intended for British
on
barracks in Boston. The ship's captain, a Captain Moore, threat-
ened to fire on the town if they did not comply. In response, a band
of forty townspeople led by Jeremiah O'Brien boarded a British
sloop, the Unity, and, "armed with guns, swords, axes and pitch-
forks" (in O'Brien's words), engaged and defeated the Margaretta.
Captain Moore died the next day of wounds sustained in battle.
O'Brien was given command of the Unity, which was rechristened
the Machias Liberty and armed with the Margaretta's guns; a few
weeks later, he captured another British schooner.
The townspeople gathered to plan the attacks in the 1770
Burnham Tavern (Free and Main streets, 207-255-4432), and the
wounded were brought there after the battle. Now a museum, the
tavern is furnished with pieces dating from the 1600s to the Revo-
lution; muskets used in the battle are on display, along with other
artifacts of local history.
OPPOSITE: Ruggles House, a treasure box of craftsmanship, is celebrated for its flying
staircase and detailed woodcarving.
THE
H157
250
THE NORTHERN COAST
THE NORTHERN COAST
com
251
guid
Machias was an important railroad center for lumbering com-
plad
munities up north, and a relic of that trade, the oak and iron Steam
Con
Locomotive Lion, is on permanent display at the University of
cove
Maine's Machias campus. In service for half a century, the locomo-
brea
tive was retired in 1896.
Mai
Nearby is Machiasport, first settled by English colonists in
dese
1763 and later a prosperous lumber and shipbuilding center. The
hist
Federal style Gates House (Route 92, 207-255-8461) has been
volu
restored to its 1807 construction and interior decoration. Home to
par
the Machiasport Historical Society, the house includes a museum as
cou
well as period rooms and a marine and genealogical library.
nca
phd
EASTPORT
des
hist
At the tip of Passamaquoddy Bay on Moose Island is Eastport, the
Nineteenth-century houses in Calais.
and
easternmost city in the U.S. Settled in 1772, Eastport grew with
fishing and sardine canning. The Border Historical Society oper-
CALAIS
the
ates the Barracks Museum, which was part of the original officers'
Ro
quarters and barracks of Fort Sullivan, built in 1808 as tensions
Calais was established on the St. Croix River in 1809 and steadily
the
rose between England and the U.S. The British invaded Eastport
grew as word spread among the French and English colonies of its
Am
fine forests, fishing, and arable soil. The Calais Historic District
in 1814 and held the town four years-long after the War of 1812
Sm
was over. Among the museum's collections are war artifacts, ships'
faces the river from Main Street, with few of its significant build-
the
tools, geneological records, and costumes. Remains of the fort's
ings predating a devastating 1870 fire. Among those survivors are
Powder House may be seen on Fort Hill, on McKinley Street. (The
the Gothic Revival Gilmore (316 Main Street, private) and Wash-
on
En
burn (318 Main Street, private) houses, and a Victorian mansion so
hill also affords a view of Campobello, site of Franklin Delano
5ML
Roosevelt's summer home in Canada.) Since before 1794 British
outrageously ornate it is known as Hamilton's Folly (78 South
Street, private); after the man, Thomas Hamilton, who built it and
soldiers, smugglers, sea captains, and shipwreck victims have been
went bankrupt.
bes
buried in Eastport's Hillside Cemetery, on High Street. The town's
for
Federal-style Central Congregational Church on Middle Street
In July 1604, Samuel de Champlain and the Sieur de Monts
inv
was built in 1829.
landed on the island of St. Croix with a group of eighty French-
In 1891 a new customs house and post office was built to
men, intending to set up a trading post. Had the venture been
replace an 1850 structure that burned in an 1886 fire. Much of
successful, it would have been the first permanent settlement north
Eastport's downtown historic district, built after the fire, reflects
of South Carolina, but it was doomed to failure by the harsh winter,
the Italianate styling popular at the time. Back on the mainland is
lack of drinking water, and an outbreak of scurvy that wiped out
Pleasant Point (207-853-4045), a Passamaquoddy reservation
half the colonists. The village was abandoned the following year.
(population about 700), and the Waponahki Museum. The muse-
Foundations and graves have been unearthed by archaeological
um's exhibits present a pictorial history of the Indians, as well as
excavations, but no structures remain standing. St. Croix is not
displaying artifacts, a 100-year-old birchbark canoe, and manne-
open to the public, but it may be viewed from a small red-granite
quins in traditional Passamaquoddy dress.
enclosure atop a hill overlooking the island (off Route 1). Brass
plaques detail the history of the short-lived settlement.
CHAPTER SEVEN
THE
MAINE INTERIOR
g
OPPOSITE: Mount Katahdin, from the rivers of Baxter State Park.
254
THE MAINE INTERIOR
M
aine is large-half the size of all of New England-and
about 80 percent of it is covered with forests of white
pine, balsam fir, basswood, birch, oak, maple, hemlock,
beech, and spruce. Mile-high Mount Katahdin, in the center of
Maine, is the state's tallest peak. More than 5,000 rivers and
streams pour through Maine; lakes and large ponds number 2,500.
For thousands of years these waters were fished for salmon, brook
trout, and bass by the Indians and in more recent times by sport
fishermen. Men of means built great lodges in the woods or stayed
at fashionable resort hotels.
The interior was sparsely settled by Europeans, but Indians
occupied these lands almost as soon as the glaciers receded, 10,000
to 12,000 years ago. Evidence of human occupation in that era has
been found in the vicinity of Chase and Munsungun lakes, which
are believed to have been formed by glaciers. Stone tools and
animal bones dating from 6,000 to 8,000 years ago have been
found near Cobbosseecontee Lake. Of more recent date, from
3,000 to 6,000 years ago, was the culture of the Red Paint people,
so called because their burials all contained deposits of a red ochre
paint. Little is known of them, despite the many Red Paint graves
that have been discovered, beyond the fact that they were skilled
artisans. The Indians of the historical period were the Abenaki, of
the large Algonquin linguistic group.
French traders generally coexisted peacefully with the Aben-
aki, trading furs, while the land-hungry English settlers clashed
repeatedly with the Indians. The Abenaki, particularly along the
coast, suffered tremendously in an epidemic in 1616-estimates of
mortality run as high as 75 percent. The series of wars that began
with King Philip's War in the 1670s went well for the Indians at
first, but their defeat in the French and Indian War in the 1750s
broke their power.
In 1786 the state of Massachusetts sold huge tracts of unsettled
land in northern Maine to wealthy speculators, notably William
Bingham of Philadelphia, who bought 1 million acres and acquired
another million from General Henry Knox. At the same time, the
surviving Indians of Maine were made wards of the state and lost
title to all their lands. Few Mainers regretted any discomfiture of
the Indians, but many resented the land policies of Massachusetts
and the absentee landowners.
APPOSITE: Detail from Frederic E. Church's Mt. Ktaadin (Katahdin), painted in 1853.
258
THE MAINE INTERIOR
CENTRAL REGION
The far northern county of Aroostook is the largest and lone-
goods forty-five miles downriver
liest county in Maine. Towns of any size are the exception on these
was ice, harvested from the Ken
wide-open flat acres. Potato farming is a major industry in this
sawdust for points south. In 18
region, and enormous trucks carry the crops southward to markets
Portland to Augusta. Within a de
in Maine, New England, and other parts of the country. Along the
mills as well were adding to the F
green St. John River valley are small farming communities, many
of them founded by Acadians, the French Canadians driven from
Maine St
their homes by the English in the late 1700s.
While citizens of Portland mac
After the Revolution, the United States and Britain anxiously
capital back to their city, their C
shared the northern border region, competing for its wealth of
Bulfinch's impressive structure in
timber, game, and minerals. Each country trespassed against the
classical design of Maine's capito
other in disputes that lasted over fifty years. Between February
chusetts State House; the build
and May 1839 there was a confrontation, called the "Aroostook
enous to Maine: granite from
War," which threatened to erupt into violence. Some 10,000 Maine
1829 and lasted until January 18
troops massed along the Aroostook River, and the federal govern-
many alterations, additions, an
ment agreed to send 50,000 more. But before any shooting started,
remodeling of the interior in
a border was agreed upon by negotiation and formalized in the
three-story wing was added to th
Webster-Ashburton Treaty.
Maine's great lumber boom began after the Revolution and
gathered force through the nineteenth century. Augusta and Ban-
gor both prospered as centers of milling and trade in lumber. The
Penobscot River carried the harvest of the interior forests to Ban-
gor, which, in the middle of the nineteenth century, was one of the
world's largest producers of wood products.
This chapter begins with Augusta, the state capital, proceeds
northward to Waterville, and then detours to the west. The route
then takes up with Bangor, proceeds directly north, and then loops
south along the Canadian border to Houlton.
CENTRAL REGION
AUGUSTA
Augusta had been settled for over 200 years when it became
Maine's capital in 1831. The earliest pioneers did well trading with
the Indians for furs, fish, and timber, but they abandoned the
settlement around 1700. Settlers returned, however, in the mid-
eighteenth century as timber for construction became highly val-
ued, and the town developed on both sides of the Kennebec River.
The Maine State House in Augusta as it
Augusta became an active port, sending timber, furs, and other
were made on Charles Bulfinch's 1829 orig
259
tha
THE MAINE INTERIOR
CENTRAL REGION
Aroostook is the largest and lone-
goods forty-five miles downriver to the sea. One of its chief exports
ny size are the exception on these
was ice, harvested from the Kennebec each winter and packed in
ning is a major industry in this
sawdust for points south. In 1832 the capital was moved from
y the crops southward to markets
Portland to Augusta. Within a decade not oth sawmills but cotton
er parts of the country. Along the
mills as well were adding to the prosperity of the thriving city.
mall farming communities, many
Maine State House
le French Canadians driven from
: late 1700s.
While citizens of Portland made several amempts to move the
nited States and Britain anxiously
capital back to their city, their cause faded in the face of Charles
gion, competing for its wealth of
Bulfinch's impressive structure in Augusta. The architect based the
ch country trespassed against the
classical design of Maine's capitol on his earber one for the Massa-
er fifty years. Between February
chusetts State House; the building material however, was indig-
frontation, called the "Aroostook
enous to Maine: granite from Hollowell Construction began in
into violence. Some 10,000 Maine
1829 and lasted until January 1832. Its completion was a prelude to
ook River, and the federal govern-
many alterations, additions, and renovations. beginning with a
e. But before any shooting started,
remodeling of the interior in 1857. Between 1890 and 1891 a
negotiation and formalized in the
three-story wing was added to the rear of the building according to
n began after the Revolution and
eteenth century. Augusta and Ban-
of milling and trade in lumber. The
rvest of the interior forests to Ban-
nineteenth century, was one of the
od products.
Augusta, the state capital, proceeds
hen detours to the west. The route
ceeds directly north, and then loops
er to Houlton.
REGION
GUSTA
r over 200 years when it became
arliest pioneers did well trading with
d timber, but they abandoned the
lers returned, however, in the mid-
for construction became highly val-
on both sides of the Kennebec River.
The Maine State House in Augusta as it has appeared STATE 1910, when final elaborations
)rt, sending timber, furs, and other
were made on Charles Bulfinch's 1829 original.
CENTRAL REGION
261
architect John Calvin Spofford's design, attuned to Bulfinch's
original plans. Architect G. Henri Desmond paid less attention to
maintaining the integrity of the earlier designs; in 1909-1910 he
added two large side wings and replaced the original low dome
with an almost 200-foot steel dome covered in copper and topped
by Wisdom, a gold-covered statue sculptured by W. Clark Noble.
Bulfinch's mark is still visible in the front Greek Revival portico
and its recessed wall. As the demands of civil government varied,
the structure that housed it followed suit; the State House reflects
its own history. A self-guided tour of the capitol grounds and State
House includes temporary exhibits about Maine and local history,
dioramas of native wildlife, portraits of governors, and legislative
chambers.
LOCATION: State and Capitol streets. HOURS: 9-5 Monday-Friday,
10-4 Saturday, 1-4 Sunday. FEE: None. TELEPHONE: 207-289-
2301.
The Maine State Museum (207-289-2301), about a hundred yards
south of the State House, offers an excellent overview of the state's
natural, industrial, and social history. Curators have devised diora-
mas of Maine's natural settings, and there is a gem and mineral
exhibit. An extensive exhibit, "Made in Maine," presents the histo-
ry of the state's products and industries. Historical settings of both
factory and home display the various crafts of sewing, weaving,
furniture making, and shoe making. Principal industrial tools and
methods are explained.
Across from the capitol is Blaine House (207-289-2301), the
Federal-style residence of Maine's governor. As governors' man-
sions go, the clapboard, green-shuttered house, sitting behind a
picket fence, is modest. Sea captain James Hall built it for himself
in 1833; the house takes its name from a later resident, James G.
Blaine, a Maine congressman who became Speaker of the House, a
U.S. senator, a presidential candidate, and secretary of state under
presidents Garfield and Harrison. Blaine died in 1893, and in 1919
his descendants gave the house to the state, to be used as the official
residence of Maine's governors and their families.
Fort Western (16 Cony Street, 207-626-2385), a 1754 fortifi-
cation, also served as a store and, in the nineteenth century, as a
tenement for factory workers. The main building, a 100-by-32-foot
OPPOSITE: The three-story Maine capitol rotunda soars 185 feet above the first floor.
262
CENTRAL REGION
CENTRAL REGION
rounded tower at each of the buildi
arches, and ornate dormers with rou
postal station, and offices.
ALNA
The town of Alna is known chiefly f(
Head Tide, located on the Sheepscot
raison d'être of the village: Mills 01
Sheepscot, giving Head Tide an act
from pre-Revolutionary times into th
Head Tide's mills produced thousands
Along the north and south banks
Head Tide Historic District, are the vi
teenth-century houses, a store, chur
1789 Alna Meeting House (Route 218
Colonial buildings. The Schoolhouse,
sible to miss-its tall cupola pokes ab
scape. Built in 1795, it is Maine's seco
house, fifty years younger than York's.
Fort Western, raised on the east bank of the Kennebec River in the mid-eighteenth century.
rectangle of hewn logs covered in shingles and topped by four
huge chimneys, is one of the finest remnants of colonial America.
Today it is a museum that interprets the military, economic, and
social history of the Kennebec River Valley.
In 1827 the U.S. government built an arsenal in Augusta to
defend the frontier at the time of the boundary dispute with
England. The arsenal consisted of fifteen buildings, most of them
of granite. Ammunition manufactured here supplied the Mexican
War, the Civil War, and the Spanish-American War. Ten of the
granite buildings survive and are still in use by the state. Known as
the Kennebec Arsenal Historic District, they are located at the
end of Arsenal Street, on the river.
The Kennebec County Courthouse (95 State Street) is one of
the earliest Greek Revival structures in Maine (1829), with a full
Ionic colonnade. Also of architectural interest is the Old Post
Office (1886), a fabulous Romanesque edifice, and one of the
distinguished Victorian buildings on Water Street in downtown
Clustered on the Sheepscot River, me- and two-century
Augusta. A central round tower set on a square base is echoed by a
Historic District.
264
CENTRAL REGION
CENTRAL REGION
East of Waterville, where the Kennebec merges with the Sebasti-
cook River, lies Winslow, primarily a farming community. In 1754,
English colonists built Fort Halifax on the Sebasticook to protect
their fragile settlements from the French and Indians. The fort was
also a crucial link during the Revolution and a way station for
Benedict Arnold on his ill-fated march to Quebec. Its blockhouse,
believed to be the oldest in the United States until its demise in
1987 floodwaters, is being reconstructed (1988).
WATERVILLE
Just south of Skowhegan, the aptly named Waterville was born on
the Kennebec's Tionic Falls, which drove the town's lumber mills.
River drivers also took advantage of the water's power, sending
logs over the falls to be milled in town.
The Redington Museum
Waterville's authentically furnished and stocked
Housed in an 1814 frame house built by one of Waterville's early
pioneers, this well-appointed museum is administered by the Wa-
extracts, oils, herbs, and equipm
terville Historical Society and documents the early years of the
tion-preparation area and a m
town. Asa Redington, a Revolutionary War veteran of George
stained-glass trim, the museum re
Washington's elite Honor Guard, built the house with an eye to the
of the nineteenth century.
elegance of the time, as evidenced by the spiral staircase, the
LOCATION: 64 Silver Street. HOUR
original fireplaces, and the woodwork. Five period rooms of the
Tuesday-Saturday. FEE: Yes. TELE
late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries contain antiques and
Another particularly picturesque
furnishings original to the Redingtons and other pioneering fam-
Waterville Opera House on Cast
ilies, including Chippendale and Hepplewhite pieces; a collection
of the century, this well-preservec
of clocks; kitchen utensils; period children's toys, among them a
dates the movie house, harking ba
Victorian and a Colonial Revival dollhouse; and family portraits.
The museum's library includes diaries and archives from the
ing theater companies. An early ex
the concrete-and-steel Profession
mid-eighteenth century to the twentieth, plus an extensive collec-
tion of local newspapers and early photographs. Other exhibits
Street), was built in 1923 with stylis
motifs, and low archways.
include displays of early craftsmanship, technological develop-
ments in the logging and transportation fields, firearms, Civil War
North of Waterville is some of th
memorabilia, early business marquees, musical instruments, Indian
Maine-rolling hills, enormous ]
artifacts, and period costumes. Adjacent to the museum is the
Along the waterways grew such mi
aVerdiere Apothecary Museum, housing an extensive collection
Center, Plymouth, Burnham, and
of pharmaceutical paraphernalia and furnishings, such as brass
roads gave birth to other commui
and mahogany cabinets, shelves filled with early patent medicines,
son, and Sidney. Skowhegan (an In
CENTRAL REGION
CENTRAL REGION
265
: Kennebec merges with the Sebasti-
narily a farming community. In 1754,
[alifax on the Sebasticook to protect
the French and Indians. The fort was
e Revolution and a way station for
ed march to Quebec. Its blockhouse,
the United States until its demise in
onstructed (1988).
ERVILLE
aptly named Waterville was born on
which drove the town's lumber mills.
itage of the water's power, sending
in town.
ngton Museum
Waterville's authentically furnished and stocked nineteenth-century LaVerdiere Apothecary.
use built by one of Waterville's early
museum is administered by the Wa-
extracts, oils, herbs, and equipment. With an authentic prescrip-
I documents the early years of the
tion-preparation area and a mirrored fountain backed with
olutionary War veteran of George
stained-glass trim, the museum recalls the soda fountain-drugstore
rd, built the house with an eye to the
of the nineteenth century.
denced by the spiral staircase, the
LOCATION: 64 Silver Street. HOURS: May through September: 2-6
oodwork. Five period rooms of the
Tuesday-Saturday. FEE: Yes. TELEPHONE: 207-872-9439.
eenth centuries contain antiques and
dingtons and other pioneering fam-
Another particularly picturesque element of the past resides in the
nd Hepplewhite pieces; a collection
Waterville Opera House on Castonguay Square. Built at the turn
riod children's toys, among them a
of the century, this well-preserved Colonial Revival structure pre-
al dollhouse; and family portràits.
dates the movie house, harking back to the age of local and travel-
ludes diaries and archives from the
ing theater companies. An early example of Art Deco architecture,
twentieth, plus an extensive collec-
the concrete-and-steel Professional Building (177 and 179 Main
early photographs. Other exhibits
Street), was built in 1923 with stylistic detailing in the reliefs, shield
motifs, and low archways.
ftsmanship, technological develop-
sportation fields, firearms, Civil War
North of Waterville is some of the most beautiful countryside in
arquees, musical instruments, Indian
Maine-rolling hills, enormous lakes, waterfalls, and streams.
S. Adjacent to the museum is the
Along the waterways grew such mill towns as Hermon, Newburgh
um, housing an extensive collection
Center, Plymouth, Burnham, and Damascus. After 1856, the rail-
alia and furnishings, such as brass
roads gave birth to other communities-Fairfield, Shawmut, An-
es filled with early patent medicines,
son, and Sidney. Skowhegan (an Indian word for "a place to watch
266
CENTRAL REGION
CENTRAL REGION
fish") was settled in 1771 by two homesteaders, Peter Heywood and
town's pulp and paper mills since 1
Joseph Weston, who brought their families and a few head of cattle
historic district reflects the town
from Concord, Massachusetts.
century when Oxford Paper and ot
The mid- to late-nineteenth century prosperity of Skowhegan
economy. Major downtown buildir
as a regional business center is apparent in its historic district,
droscoggin Falls, include the Colon
which comprises nearly forty commercial buildings along Water
designed by Harry S. Coombs in 19
and Russett Streets, as well as Madison Avenue. Virtually all late-
ford Falls Power Company Buildi
nineteenth-century architectural styles are represented here in
ing, also of Beaux-Arts design; a
varying states of renovation. The Skowhegan History House (Nor-
Mechanic Institute.
ridgewock Avenue, 207-474-3140), a dignified, Greek Revival
The Strathglass Park Histori
brick residence, is furnished appropriately for its year of construc-
early twentieth-century planned C(
tion, 1839. Local documents and artifacts are also on display.
developer for Rumford Falls and
Farther west are fertile agricultural lands, settled for the most
hired noted architect Cass H. Gilbe
part by the English in the 1770s. Highways here roll past fields of
opment for the millworkers. Betwee
corn, potatoes, and pumpkins and past apple orchards. Farming-
and attractive duplexes, surrounde
ton, as its name implies, is a typical farming community on the
on blocks divided by tree-lined av
banks of the Sandy River in the Oxford Hills. The Little Red
garbage and snow removal, were
Schoolhouse Museum (Route 2) is complete with desks and books
Not until 1948 and 1949 were the 1
from the last century; built in 1852, it served Farmington's students
for over 100 years. It is a visitor center in summer.
NEW
Downriver at Farmington Falls is the Old Union Meeting
House, completed in 1827 by a Farmington carpenter, Benjamin
One of the best-preserved one-roo
Butler. In style the meetinghouse harks back to the eighteenth
with its 1895 furnishings intact, is tl
century, with a steeple in the mode of the London architect Chris-
on Sunday River Road in Newry.
topher Wren. Used by a variety of denominations before they built
bridge, the Sunday River Bridge, W
their own churches, it now houses the Union Baptist Church. On
bridge was assembled on each shore
Holly Road, the Nordica Homestead Museum (207-778-2042)
joined in the center.
pays tribute to the famous opera soprano Lillian Nordica (née
Norton). The 1840 Cape Cod-style home, built by her father, was
The narrow roads and highways
Nordica's home before her mother launched her operatic career.
toward Baxter State Park seem har
In 1891, Nordica made her debut at the Metropolitan Opera. Her
themselves, barely penetrating the
expertise lay in Wagnerian roles, and she in fact studied under
Maine's lake country. From the m
Wagner's widow. Nordica spent her last summer here in 1911; she
summered at the state's coastal res
died in 1914. The museum includes concert gowns, programs,
moose and fly-fished at Flagstaff an
stage jewels, music, and other Nordica memorabilia from her ca-
the Rangeley Lakes Region Histori
reer and the family home.
son streets) has a large collection o
RUMFORD
era. Funds to build the classically
brary (Lake Street, 207-864-5529)
The largest town in the Oxford Hills, Rumford developed as an
by summer and permanent resident
industrial and a resort center. The Ellis, Swift, and Concord rivers
tional collection of material writte
flow into the Androscoggin, whose powerful falls have driven the
scientist Wilhelm Reich, who fled
267
CENTRAL REGION
CENTRAL REGION
VO homesteaders, Peter Heywood and
town's pulp and paper mills since the late 1800s. The commercial
their families and a few head of cattle
historic district reflects the town's fortunes at the turn of the
century when Oxford Paper and other companies boosted the local
nth century prosperity of Skowhegan
economy. Major downtown buildings, all within sight of the An-
r is apparent in its historic district,
droscoggin Falls, include the Colonial Revival Municipal Building,
y commercial buildings along Water
designed by Harry S. Coombs in 1916; the 1906 Beaux-Arts Rum-
S Madison Avenue. Virtually all late-
ford Falls Power Company Building; the 1910 Strathglass Build-
ural styles are represented here in
ing, also of Beaux-Arts design; and the 1911 Classical Revival
The Skowhegan History House (Nor-
Mechanic Institute.
1-3140), a dignified, Greek Revival
The Strathglass Park Historic District is an example of an
appropriately for its year of construc-
early twentieth-century planned community. Hugh J. Chisolm, a
and artifacts are also on display.
developer for Rumford Falls and the Oxford Paper Company,
gricultural lands, settled for the most
hired noted architect Cass H. Gilbert to design a residential devel-
70s. Highways here roll past fields of
opment for the millworkers. Between 1901 and 1902 fifty-one solid
IS and past apple orchards. Farming-
and attractive duplexes, surrounded by gracious lawns, were built
a typical farming community on the
on blocks divided by tree-lined avenues. Public services, such as
n the Oxford Hills. The Little Red
garbage and snow removal, were taken care of by the company.
e 2) is complete with desks and books
Not until 1948 and 1949 were the lots sold privately.
1852, it served Farmington's students
tor center in summer.
NEWRY
on Falls is the Old Union Meeting
y a Farmington carpenter, Benjamin
One of the best-preserved one-room schoolhouses in the country,
ghouse harks back to the eighteenth
with its 1895 furnishings intact, is the Lower Sunday River School
mode of the London architect Chris-
on Sunday River Road in Newry. The town's graceful covered
ety of denominations before they built
bridge, the Sunday River Bridge, was built in 1870. One half of the
louses the Union Baptist Church. On
bridge was assembled on each shore and then settled into place and
Iomestead Museum (207-778-2042)
joined in the center.
opera soprano Lillian Nordica (née
d-style home, built by her father, was
The narrow roads and highways heading northwest of Newry
nother launched her operatic career.
toward Baxter State Park seem hardly more than wilderness trails
debut at the Metropolitan Opera. Her
themselves, barely penetrating the heavy forests. But they lead to
roles, and she in fact studied under
Maine's lake country. From the mid-1800s, while the sailing set
ent her last summer here in 1911; she
summered at the state's coastal resorts, inland sportsmen stalked
1 includes concert gowns, programs,
moose and fly-fished at Flagstaff and Rangeley lakes. In Rangeley,
er Nordica memorabilia from her ca-
the Rangeley Lakes Region Historical Society (Main and Richard-
son streets) has a large collection of photographs from the resort
era. Funds to build the classically designed Rangeley Public Li-
JMFORD
brary (Lake Street, 207-864-5529) were raised in the early 1900s
ford Hills, Rumford developed as an
by summer and permanent residents. The library houses an excep-
r. The Ellis, Swift, and Concord rivers
tional collection of material written by-and about-the natural
whose powerful falls have driven the
scientist Wilhelm Reich, who fled Nazi Germany and eventually
268
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
settled in Maine. A student of Sigmund Freud, Reich developed a
controversial theory based on a universal biological energy he
called orgone. (He named his compound in Maine "Orgonon.")
Three miles west of Rangeley is the Wilhelm Reich Museum
(Dodge Pond Road, 207-864-3443), housed in Reich's observa-
tory. Built of native fieldstone in the Bauhaus style, the building
contains his equipment and paintings as well as exhibits on his
work. Reich, who died in 1957, enjoyed the region's low humidity
and abundant forests, lakes, and mountains, which reminded him
of Europe. His study and library are also on view.
THE EASTERN-INTERIOR
BANGOR
In his journal of 1604, Samuel de Champlain recorded his impres-
sions of the hilly west bank of the Penobscot River. The land there,
twenty-three miles inland and thick with oak trees, struck the
French explorer as "pleasant and agreeable," as did the Indians
who inhabited the area. It would be another century and a half
Think
before a Massachusetts pioneer, Jacob Buswell, settled at the pleas-
ant and agreeable spot that would grow into one of Maine's most
rollicking towns. Buswell's community, at first known as Kendus-
keag Plantation after the tributary stream that runs through town,
made its living by exporting fur pelts and lumber. In about 1800
Bangor got its present name-apparently from the title of a favor-
ite hymn of the town's pastor. Bangor now began to come into its
own, with businesses and population expanding even as the War of
1812 brought blockades and other British aggressions.
Harvesting pine and spruce trees upstream from Bangor
along a great length of the Penobscot, timbermen floated logs to
Bangor mills. From them in the 1850s came an enormous supply of
lumber, shingles, clapboards, and lath. Much of that wood went out
to sea from Bangor in locally made ships-the river town was an
active port with a lively overseas trade. Bangor traded with the
West Indies, too, exchanging its large winter ice harvest for their
molasses, sugar, and rum.
In the mid-nineteenth century, railroads tied Bangor and its
timber goods to all points south. The town boomed as many came
OPPOSITE: Nineteenth-century buildings on Broad Street, in Bangor's Market Square
Historic District.
270
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
to make their fortunes-in lumber, milling, shipbuilding, and land
Revival Smith-Boutelle House (private)
speculation. The newcomers created an exciting city, full of cultur-
berland. The elaborate doorway, contair
al diversions. And as with most boom towns, the lumberjacks and
sports a top panel of anthemion leave
sailors found no shortage of saloons and brothels.
Greek Revival style. One resident of th
The citizens built an extremely good-looking town, which is
telle, Civil War naval officer, publisher
still in evidence, despite the ravages of a 1911 fire and the urban
and Courier, and nine-term congressman
renewal of the late 1960s. The West Market Square Historic Dis-
were three U.S. presidents-Garfield, H:
trict consists of two downtown blocks, defined by State, Main, and
Penobscot off Broadway is Bryant's Ken-
Broad streets and the Kenduskeag Stream. The first open market-
graceful Greek Revival double house wit
place in Bangor, it was also where many set up shop in handsome
Perhaps the city's most beloved lan
brick and granite buildings-doctors, booksellers, grocers, shoe-
Standpipe and Observatory, which do
makers, druggists, hatters. Much of the area was the 1830s design
highest elevation in the city, a hilly form
work of Charles G. Bryant, a prominent hometown architect. His
Probably the only Shingle-style standpi
best-known commercial commission is Bangor House (174 Main), a
somely shrouds a huge water tank (now
grand hotel of its day (built 1833-1834), receiving such guests as
The balustrade is lit at night. Also notabl
Ulysses S. Grant, Daniel Webster, and Theodore Roosevelt. It is
red brick Bangor Children's Home. I
now an apartment building.
phanage, it is now a day-care center and
In the same decade Bryant drew up plans for the City Com-
The Bangor Public Library, boas
mon, east of Broadway, and for Mount Hope Cemetery. Lands-
volumes and renowned as a great rep
caped with ponds, trees, and pathways, the cemetery was inspired
history, was founded in 1845, but its ]
by Mount Auburn in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the nation's first
mond Street was built in 1912, after the
garden cemetery. Mount Hope is filled with elaborate Victorian
fact, the neighborhood is known as the (
monuments, marble urns, granite obelisks, and ironwork. A can-
for the reconstruction that occurred
non marks the site of the Grand Army Lot, a burial ground conse-
Among the library's neighbors are the
crated in 1864 for Civil War veterans.
Bangor High School (now an apart
The city's increasing number of rich entrepreneurs commis-
Schoolhouse), and the Romanesque Gra
sioned Bryant and other architects to design houses. Most of the
One of the earliest examples in the
clients preferred to build just south of Main Street in what is now
temple style is the 1832 Zebulon Smith
called the High Street Historic District (a triangle defined by
private), once one of a line of fashic
Union, Columbia, and Hammond streets). Rising above the district
nounced the wealth of their owners.
is the Hammond Street Congregational Church, built in 1853.
silversmith. Another Greek Revival S
Built in 1822, the William Mason House (62 High Street, private)
Hatch House at 117 Court Street, with
is probably the oldest brick house in the district. Bryant's George
and back of the house. The history of
W. Brown House (43 High Street, private) and Pickering House
the boom-time fluctuations of America
(39 High Street, private), both built in 1833-1835, are gable-roofed
society. Nathaniel Hatch, a prosperous
twins with Greek Revival porticoes.
1832-1833 and sold it soon afterwar
Another of Bangor's historic residential neighborhoods is
worked with his father in lumber after i
bounded by Essex, Center, Garland, and State streets. Developed
up studying law. In 1857, when his succ
in the 1830s, the Broadway Historic District includes several
Farrar sold the house, packed up, and
houses designed by architect Charles Bryant, including the Greek
house is currently run by the Bangor H
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
271
hat
hilling, shipbuilding, and land
Revival Smith-Boutelle House (private) on Broadway near Cum-
an exciting city, full of cultur-
berland. The elaborate doorway, contained within a Doric portico,
n towns, the lumberjacks and
sports a top panel of anthemion leaves, a popular motif of the
and brothels.
Greek Revival style. One resident of the house was Charles Bou-
good-looking town, which is
telle, Civil War naval officer, publisher of the Bangor Daily Whig
of a 1911 fire and the urban
and Courier, and nine-term congressman. Among Boutelle's guests
Market Square Historic Dis-
were three U.S. presidents-Garfield, Harrison, and McKinley. On
i, defined by State, Main; and
Penobscot off Broadway is Bryant's Ken-Cutting House (private), a
ream. The first open market-
graceful Greek Revival double house with wrought-iron railings.
any set up shop in handsome
Perhaps the city's most beloved landmark is the 1898 Bangor
S, booksellers, grocers, shoe-
Standpipe and Observatory, which dominates Thomas Hill, the
he area was the 1830s design
highest elevation in the city, a hilly former Indian hunting ground.
ent hometown architect. His
Probably the only Shingle-style standpipe in the nation, it hand-
; Bangor House (174 Main), a
somely shrouds a huge water tank (now used only in emergencies).
34), receiving such guests as
The balustrade is lit at night. Also notable in the area is the massive,
id Theodore Roosevelt. It is
red brick Bangor Children's Home. Built 1868-1869 as an or-
phanage, it is now a day-care center and private school.
up plans for the City Com-
The Bangor Public Library, boasting nearly half a million
unt Hope Cemetery. Lands-
volumes and renowned as a great repository of state and local
/S, the cemetery was inspired
history, was founded in 1845, but its present building on Ham-
ssachusetts, the nation's first
mond Street was built in 1912, after the fire that gutted the area. In
led with elaborate Victorian
fact, the neighborhood is known as the Great Fire Historic District
elisks, and ironwork. A can-
for the reconstruction that occurred between 1911 and 1915.
y Lot, a burial ground conse-
Among the library's neighbors are the Bangor Savings Bank, the
Bangor High School (now an apartment building called the
rich entrepreneurs commis-
Schoolhouse), and the Romanesque Graham Building.
) design houses. Most of the
One of the earliest examples in the state of the Greek Revival
f Main Street in what is now
temple style is the 1832 Zebulon Smith House (55 Summer Street,
trict (a triangle defined by
private), once one of a line of fashionable residences that an-
ets). Rising above the district
nounced the wealth of their owners. Smith was a jeweler and
onal Church, built in 1853.
silversmith. Another Greek Revival structure is the Nathaniel
use (62 High Street, private)
Hatch House at 117 Court Street, with porticoes at both the front
the district. Bryant's George
and back of the house. The history of the house's owners reflects
rivate) and Pickering House
the boom-time fluctuations of American mid-nineteenth-century
1833-1835, are gable-roofed
society. Nathaniel Hatch, a prosperous banker, built the house in
1832-1833 and sold it soon afterward to Samuel Farrar, who
esidential neighborhoods is
worked with his father in lumber after ill health forced him to give
and State streets. Developed
up studying law. In 1857, when his successful business floundered,
ic District includes several
Farrar sold the house, packed up, and moved to Wisconsin. The
Bryant, including the Greek
house is currently run by the Bangor Housing Authority.
ishing
272
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
The mahagony-rich entrance hall of Isaac Farrar Mansion in Bangor.
The ornate wallpaper in the Farrar entrance h
Lumber baron and merchant Isaac Farrar ordered the finest
In the front hallway of the I
materials for his house, which was the first known U.S. commission
to Hannibal Hamlin, a promine
of English architect Richard Upjohn. The 1833 Isaac Farrar Man-
came Abraham Lincoln's vice pre
sion (166 Union Street, 207-941-2808) contains marble mantles,
he died in Bangor in 1891 and is
stained-glass windows, mahogany wainscotting, and much carved
A farmer and lawyer based in
woodwork. It has been extensively remodeled. Across from it is the
Hamlin entered politics as a Jack
Greek Revival cottage that Upjohn designed in 1836 for lawyer
in the state House of Representa
Thomas A. Hill. Now headquarters of the Bangor Historical Soci-
the U.S. House of Representative
ety and Museum, the Hill House (159 Union Street, 207-942-
His abolitionist views led him to ]
5766) has a completely restored downstairs floor, the highlight of
and in 1856 he was elected Main
which is a grand double parlor, furnished to Victorian perfection.
following year he was reelected 1
In the 1840s the house passed to Samuel Dale, mayor of Bangor,
sen by Lincoln as his running n
whose guests included Ulysses S. Grant. Among the rotating exhib-
over in 1864 for Andrew Johns
its are nineteenth-century letters and diaries, photographs, and
Lincoln's assassination. The Mai
paintings, as well as household tools and utensils, many of them
the U.S. Senate in 1869, where h
made in Bangor.
ing to Bangor, he served as U.S.
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
273
Farrar Mansion in Bangor.
The ornate wallpaper in the Farrar entrance hall is original, dating from 1833.
ant Isaac Farrar ordered the finest
In the front hallway of the Hill House is a desk that belonged
was the first known U.S. commission
to Hannibal Hamlin, a prominent Maine politician before he be-
pjohn. The 1833 Isaac Farrar Man-
came Abraham Lincoln's vice president. Born in Paris Hill in 1809,
41-2808) contains marble mantles,
he died in Bangor in 1891 and is buried in Mount Hope Cemetery.
any wainscotting, and much carved
A farmer and lawyer based in Hampden, just south of Bangor,
ely remodeled. Across from it is the
Hamlin entered politics as a Jacksonian Democrat. He served first
john designed in 1836 for lawyer
in the state House of Representatives (1836-1841), was elected to
rters of the Bangor Historical Soci-
the U.S. House of Representatives in 1843, and then to the Senate.
Mainesub.
use (159 Union Street, 207-942-
His abolitionist views led him to resign from the Democratic Party,
d downstairs floor, the highlight of
and in 1856 he was elected Maine's first Republican governor. The
1st Govern
furnished to Victorian perfection.
following year he was reelected to the U.S. Senate. Although cho-
to Samuel Dale, mayor of Bangor,
sen by Lincoln as his running mate in 1860, Hamlin was passed
Grant. Among the rotating exhib-
over in 1864 for Andrew Johnson, who became president upon
ers and diaries, photographs, and
Lincoln's assassination. The Maine electorate returned Hamlin to
tools and utensils, many of them
h
the U.S. Senate in 1869, where he served until 1881. Before retir-
ing to Bangor, he served as U.S. minister to Spain.
274
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
In Bangor, Hamlin lived at 15 Fifth Street, in an 1848 man-
of the once-fiery operation, the 0
sard-roofed house that is now the official residence of presidents of
Katahdin was a factory town, bu
the Bangor Theological Seminary. Moved to Bangor from Hamp-
1843-the workers' houses, town
den in 1819, the seminary boasts significant buildings, including
auxiliary farms, and boardingho
the 1827 Old Commons Building, the 1833 Maine Hall, and the
materials from its mineral-rich loc
1858 Chapel.
twenty tons of pig iron a day in
Bordering the seminary is the Whitney Park Historic District.
markets by rail and river. For a wh
Clustered around West Broadway between Union and Hammond
nonstop, and the factory produce
streets, it was developed during the Civil War era by a generation
chinery, and wheels for railroad
of prosperous newcomers to Bangor. They built large houses in the
could not compete with the nev
popular Victorian styles such as Queen Anne and Shingle. One of
technology in Pittsburgh, Pennsy
the most exuberant is the Italianate William Arnold House (47
operation, only one of fourteen k
West Broadway, private) built by a local merchant in 1857. The
remain and have been renovated
Penobscot Nation Museum (207-827-6545) in Old Town exhibits
ments to the passage of boom-tim
a range of Indian artifacts including basketry, clothing, stone tools
and sculpture, and birchbark artwork.
LOCATION: Off Route 11, five mil
The heritage of Bangor's logging industry is the subject of
HOURS: Memorial Day through L
TELEPHONE: 207-645-4217.
exhibits at the Maine Forest and Logging Museum (Route 178 in
Bradley, 207-942-4228), scheduled for completion in 1991. The
centerpiece of the complex is a re-creation of Leonard's Mills,
Chamberlain Lake is just above B:
established in 1931. Near the sout
active in 1797. Exhibits explain the sawmill process-from north-
ern wood harvesting, spring log drives, the establishment of log-
Katahdin, northern terminus of 1
ging camps, and forest management to the actual milling (the
foresters in the 1920s. The 2,1(
waterwheel driven by Blackman Stream). Froes, adzes, broad axes,
Maine's Baxter Peak to Georgia's
pick poles, and other eighteenth-century tools are on display. The
South of Fort Kent, beginni
chronology ends with the modern lumber and paper industries.
southwest to Chamberlain Lake,
logging-transportation system in
At Greenville, summer residents got around Moosehead Lake on
The steam-driven Tramway was
the Katahdin, one of Maine's last and largest steamboats. Built at the
problem of getting logs from lum
Bath Iron Works in 1914, the powerful vessel carried passengers
transportation to markets.
In 1841 the waters of Chan
and logs between various points on the forty-mile-long lake. Resort
into the east branch of the Peno
hotels such as the Mount Kineo House (207-695-2702) comman-
deered her services for popular excursions. She made her farewell
the twentieth century, lumber in
passenger run in 1938 and her final run in 1976. Now a steamboat-
depleted. The Tramway was de
era exhibit at the Moosehead Marine Museum, the Katahdin has
over land from the timber-rich
been restored and outfitted with displays of her history.
Lake, which had links to the mill
seas markets. A 6,000-foot steel Ci
KATAHDIN IRON WORKS
the two lakes, along which trucks
trucks ran along 22-inch-gauge
East of Greenville, on Silver Lake, are the Katahdin Iron Works,
abandoned in 1890. The blast furnace and kiln remain, survivors
OVERLEAF: Mount Katahdin rises 5,268 feet
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
275
of
fth Street, in an 1848 man-
of the once-fiery operation, the only one of its kind in the state.
of that
al residence of presidents of
Katahdin was a factory town, built along with the ironworks in
id of
1843-the workers' houses, town hall, train depot, school, stores,
G,
ved to Bangor from Hamp-
ificant buildings, including
auxiliary farms, and boardinghouses are now gone. Taking raw
: 1833 Maine Hall, and the
materials from its mineral-rich location, Katahdin produced about
twenty tons of pig iron a day in the early 1880s, sending it to
itney Park Historic District.
markets by rail and river. For a while, the Katahdin furnace blasted
ween Union and Hammond
nonstop, and the factory produced iron farm tools, parts for ma-
ivil War era by a generation
chinery, and wheels for railroad cars. After the 1880s, Katahdin
They built large houses in the
could not compete with the newer and more centrally located
n Anne and Shingle. One of
technology in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Of Katahdin's extensive
William Arnold House (47
operation, only one of fourteen kilns and the blast-furnace tower
ocal merchant in 1857. The
remain and have been renovated, massive and impressive monu-
-6545) in Old Town exhibits
ments to the passage of boom-time prosperity and society.
asketry, clothing, stone tools
LOCATION: Off Route 11, five miles north of Brownsville Junction.
g industry is the subject of
HOURS: Memorial Day through Labor Day: 9-5 Daily. FEE: None.
TELEPHONE: 207-645-4217.
ging Museum (Route 178 in
for completion in 1991. The
creation of Leonard's Mills,
Chamberlain Lake is just above Baxter State Park (207-723-9616),
awmill process-from north-
established in 1931. Near the southeast corner of the park is Mount
es, the establishment of log-
Katahdin, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, blazed by
it to the actual milling (the
foresters in the 1920s. The 2,100-mile wilderness trail connects
m). Froes, adzes, broad axes,
Maine's Baxter Peak to Georgia's Mount Springer.
ury tools are on display. The
South of Fort Kent, beginning at Eagle Lake and stretching
nber and paper industries.
southwest to Chamberlain Lake, lie the remains of a remarkable
logging-transportation system in the Tramway Historical District.
around Moosehead Lake on
The steam-driven Tramway was engineered in 1902 to solve the
argest steamboats. Built at the
problem of getting logs from lumbering areas to the waterways for
rful vessel carried passengers
transportation to markets.
le forty-mile-long lake. Resort
In 1841 the waters of Chamberlain Lake had been diverted
ise (207-695-2702) comman-
into the east branch of the Penobscot River. By the beginning of
rsions. She made her farewell
the twentieth century, lumber in the surrounding area had been
un in 1976. Now a steamboat-
depleted. The Tramway was developed to carry logs 3,000 feet
le Museum, the Katahdin has
over land from the timber-rich Eagle Lake area to Chamberlain
lays of her history.
Lake, which had links to the mills on the Penobscot and the over-
seas markets. A 6,000-foot steel cable formed a single loop between
N WORKS
the two lakes, along which trucks were attached every 10 feet. The
trucks ran along 22-inch-gauge rails, with the delivery line on a
are the Katahdin Iron Works,
ice and kiln remain, survivors
OVERLEAF: Mount Katahdin rises 5,268 feet above autumnal forests.
blishir
278
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
raised wooden structure directly above that of the return line. A 9-
foot sprocket wheel was driven by steam at the Chamberlain end,
drawing the cable and trucks along the route. A log spanned two
trucks on its way to Chamberlain Lake, and the trucks returned
empty and upside down to Eagle Lake.
Although it was made obsolete by more powerful log haulers
and locomotives, the Tramway was never destroyed, and its entire
length remains virtually intact. Between 1927 and 1933 a railroad
line ran each summer from the Tramway district to Umbazooksus
Lake to continue feeding the lumber-mill market, this time to the
west branch of the Penobscot River. The railroad engines were
subsequently stored in Eagle Lake in a structure that later burned
to the ground. The Tramway and the exposed engines of the
railway are extraordinary relics of Maine's land, technology, and
logging industry.
FORT KENT
Maine's northern border with Canada became a focal point of
conflict between the United States and Britain beginning in 1755,
when French-Acadians moved into the region known as the
Madawaska Territory to escape increasing British domination in
Canada. After the American Revolution, the United States and
Britain competed for the region's wealth in game, lumber, and
minerals. Each country trespassed against the other, creating dis-
putes that continued over fifty years and culminated in the Aroostook
War of 1838-1839. This purely diplomatic but potentially bloody
confrontation resulted in the establishment of the St. John River as
The stocky Fort Kent Blockhouse, a landmark
Maine's international border with New Brunswick, Canada.
In the winter of 1838-1839, military troops, sent by the gov-
countered with an establishment
ernments of the United States, Great Britain, Maine, and New
confrontation continued. In 18
Brunswick, converged on the lumbering region of the Aroostook
end the persistent and potential
Valley. Each was determined to exercise control over the land rich
the civil militia and installing 1
in spruce, cedar, and white pine. Within six weeks officials had
threat of serious conflict force
settled on an uneasy truce, and the troops withdrew. At the end of
Webster-Ashburton Treaty in 1{
1839, however, a Maine public-land agent hired a local force to
In 1843 the last of the feder
establish and monitor the state's claim to the area. The militia,
into private hands in 1858 and V
numbering thirty-six men, chose the meeting of the Fish and St.
state purchased the blockhouse
John rivers to locate the Fort Kent Blockhouse (Blockhouse Road
Built of thick, squared cec
and West Main Street, 207-834-3866), named for the then-gover-
prominent second-story overhan
nor of Maine, Edward Kent. New Brunswick and Great Britain
tions erected a century before II
279
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
at
bove that of the return line. A 9-
steam at the Chamberlain end,
ig the route. A log spanned two
Lake, and the trucks returned
Lake.
te by more powerful log haulers
IS never destroyed, and its entire
tween 1927 and 1933 a railroad
ramway district to Umbazooksus
ber-mill market, this time to the
ver. The railroad engines were
: in a structure that later burned
nd the exposed engines of the
of Maine's land, technology, and
KENT
Canada became a focal point of
S and Britain beginning in 1755,
into the region known as the
increasing British domination in
volution, the United States and
is wealth in game, lumber, and
d against the other, creating dis-
and culminated in the Aroostook
diplomatic but potentially bloody
blishment of the St. John River as
The stocky Fort Kent Blockhouse, a landmark of Maine's border disputes.
New Brunswick, Canada.
military troops, sent by the gov-
countered with an establishment twenty miles away, and the heated
Great Britain, Maine, and New
confrontation continued. In 1841 the U.S. government sought to
nbering region of the Aroostook
end the persistent and potentially dangerous dispute by relieving
xercise control over the land rich
the civil militia and installing federal troops at Fort Kent. The
e. Within six weeks officials had
threat of serious conflict forced negotiations that ended in the
ie troops withdrew. At the end of
Webster-Ashburton Treaty in 1842.
and agent hired a local force to
In 1843 the last of the federal troops left Fort Kent. It was sold
S claim to the area. The militia,
into private hands in 1858 and was used as a family residence. The
: the meeting of the Fish and St.
state purchased the blockhouse in 1891.
nt Blockhouse (Blockhouse Road
Built of thick, squared cedar logs, the blockhouse, with its
3866), named for the then-gover-
prominent second-story overhang, most closely resembles fortifica-
tions erected a century before 1839, perhaps as a result of the lack
ing
ew Brunswick and Great Britain
280
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
of modern engineering expertise of the local civil militia when it
Just above Houlton, in Littleton, is
began its task. Inside the rough-hewn structure are pictorial displays
covered bridge in the state. The
of the dispute era, as well as a selection of lumbering equipment.
Bridge, spanning the Meduxnekea
In 1785 the Acadians landed upriver at St. David in the Madawaska
HOUL'
area. They planted a cross on the southern shore of the St. John
River to commemorate their safe passage from British persecution
Hub of three railroads-the Bar
in Canada and their establishment in Maine. The Madawaska
Brunswick, and the Aroostook Vall
Historic Museum and Acadian Cross Historic Shrine (Route 1,
ty of Houlton grew into a real n
207-728-4518) now mark that point of entry; exhibits include a
impressive commercial buildings CC
century-old Acadian schoolhouse and 150-year-old homestead.
Built in 1907, the First National
Grecian design. The Aroostook H
VAN BUREN
Main Street, 207-532-4216) OCC
house, the finest residence of its ti
Each year profitable timber harvests enliven towns up and down
the town's earlier days, and indeec
the St. John River-Hamlin, Grand Isle, Notre Dame, Lille, Cyr
in Aroostook County, is the 1813
Plantation. One of the larger logging towns is Van Buren, named
22 North Street. Now an office buil
for President Martin Van Buren, who once visited here. Many of its
town's hotel during its frontier y
loggers (as well as most of the river valley's farmers and business-
been preserved.
men) are descendants of the original French Acadians. The local
economy is based on lumbering, farming, and small businesses.
Van Buren's Acadian Village (Route 1, 207-868-2691) con-:
sists of reconstructed and relocated eighteenth- and nineteenth-
century houses and cabins, barns, a railroad station, general store,
church, and barber, shoe, and blacksmith shops. The houses are
appointed with period furnishings and crafts; the barns, shops,
and other buildings are set up with appropriate equipment from
plows to blacksmith's anvils to barber chairs. The entire grouping
gives visitors a look into early life on Maine's northern frontier.
At the junction of Route 1 and four state highways is Caribou, a
shipping center for Aroostook potato farmers. Some of them are
descendants of Scandinavians who came to northern Maine in the
1870s, settling in the communities they named New Sweden and
Stockholm. Their history is preserved by the New Sweden Histori-
cal Society Museum (off Route 161, 207-896-5639), whose exhib-
its include two Swedish log cabins and a replica of an 1870 commu-
nity hall. Immigrant artifacts, documents, and photographs also
are housed in the Stockholm Museum (Main and Lake streets),
One of New Sweden's log cabins contains a spin
which occupies the town's old general store and post office.
who built it in 1894.
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
281
tise of the local civil militia when it
Just above Houlton, in Littleton, is the youngest and northernmost
-hewn structure are pictorial displays
covered bridge in the state. The 150-foot Watson Settlement
selection of lumbering equipment.
Bridge, spanning the Meduxnekeag Stream, was built in 1911.
priver at St. David in the Madawaska
HOULTON
the southern shore of the St. John
Hub of three railroads-the Bangor and Aroostook, the New
afe passage from British persecution
Brunswick, and the Aroostook Valley lines-the pioneer communi-
hment in Maine. The Madawaska
in Cross Historic Shrine (Route 1,
ty of Houlton grew into a real market town in the 1890s, with
It point of entry; exhibits include a
impressive commercial buildings constructed along Market Square.
use and 150-year-old homestead.
Built in 1907, the First National Bank is of a particularly noble
Grecian design. The Aroostook Historical and Art Museum (109
I BUREN
Main Street, 207-532-4216) occupies a 1903 Colonial Revival
house, the finest residence of its time in Houlton. Surviving from
arvests enliven towns up and down
the town's earlier days, and indeed the earliest surviving structure
Grand Isle, Notre Dame, Lille, Cyr
in Aroostook County, is the 1813 Black Hawk Putnam Tavern at
logging towns is Van Buren, named
22 North Street. Now an office building, the structure served as the
n, who once visited here. Many of its
town's hotel during its frontier years. The original exterior has
river valley's farmers and business-
been preserved.
original French Acadians. The local
g, farming, and small businesses.
lage (Route 1, 207-868-2691) con-
ocated eighteenth- and nineteenth-
'ns, a railroad station, general store,
I blacksmith shops. The houses are
hings and crafts; the barns, shops,
) with appropriate equipment from
barber chairs. The entire grouping
ife on Maine's northern frontier.
d four state highways is Caribou, a
potato farmers. Some of them are
who came to northern Maine in the
ities they named New Sweden and
:served by the New Sweden Histori-
: 161, 207-896-5639), whose exhib-
ins and a replica of an 1870 commu-
documents, and photographs also
Museum (Main and Lake streets),
One of New Sweden's log cabins contains a spinning wheel and other belongings of the family
general store and post office.
who built it in 1894.
280
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
THE EASTERN INTERIOR
281
of modern engineering expertise of the local civil militia when it
began its task. Inside the rough-hewn structure are pictorial displays
Just above Houlton, in Littleton, is the youngest and northernmost
covered bridge in the state. The 150-foot Watson Settlement
of the dispute era, as well as a selection of lumbering equipment.
Bridge, spanning the Meduxnekeag Stream, was built in 1911.
In 1785 the Acadians landed upriver at St. David in the Madawaska
HOULTON
area. They planted a cross on the southern shore of the St. John
River to commemorate their safe passage from British persecution
Hub of three railroads-the Bangor and Aroostook, the New
in Canada and their establishment in Maine. The Madawaska
Brunswick, and the Aroostook Valley lines-the pioneer communi-
Historic Museum and Acadian Cross Historic Shrine (Route 1,
ty of Houlton grew into a real market town in the 1890s, with
207-728-4518) now mark that point of entry; exhibits include a
impressive commercial buildings constructed along Market Square.
century-old Acadian schoolhouse and 150-year-old homestead.
Built in 1907, the First National Bank is of a particularly noble
Grecian design. The Aroostook Historical and Art Museum (109
VAN BUREN
Main Street, 207-532-4216) occupies a 1903 Colonial Revival
house, the finest residence of its time in Houlton. Surviving from
Each year profitable timber harvests enliven towns up and down
the town's earlier days, and indeed the earliest surviving structure
the St. John River-Hamlin, Grand Isle, Notre Dame, Lille, Cyr
in Aroostook County, is the 1813 Black Hawk Putnam Tavern at
Plantation. One of the larger logging towns is Van Buren, named
22 North Street. Now an office building, the structure served as the
for President Martin Van Buren, who once visited here. Many of its
town's hotel during its frontier years. The original exterior has
loggers. (as well as most of the river valley's farmers and business-
been preserved.
men) are descendants of the original French Acadians. The local
economy is based on lumbering, farming, and small businesses.
Van Buren's Acadian Village (Route 1, 207-868-2691) con-
sists of reconstructed and relocated eighteenth- and nineteenth-
century houses and cabins, barns, a railroad station, general store,
church, and barber, shoe, and blacksmith shops. The houses are
appointed with period furnishings and crafts; the barns, shops,
and other buildings are set up with appropriate equipment from
plows to blacksmith's anvils to barber chairs. The entire grouping
gives visitors a look into early life on Maine's northern frontier.
At the junction of Route 1 and four state highways is Caribou, a
shipping center for Aroostook potato farmers. Some of them are
descendants of Scandinavians who came to northern Maine in the
1870s, settling in the communities they named New Sweden and
Stockholm. Their history is preserved by the New Sweden Histori-
cal Society Museum (off Route 161, 207-896-5639), whose exhib-
its include two Swedish log cabins and a replica of an 1870 commu-
nity hall. Immigrant artifacts, documents, and photographs also
are housed in the Stockholm Museum (Main and Lake streets),
which occupies the town's old general store and post office.
One of New Sweden's log cabins contains a spinning wheel and other belongings of the family
who built it in 1894.
282
283
NOTES ON ARCHITECTURE
EARLY COLONIAL
FEDERAL
COUNTRY
ITALIANATE
QUEEN ANNE
RENAISSANCE
VERNACULAR
The Queen Anne style cm-
REVIVAL OR BEAUX
phasized contrasts of form,
ARTS
texture, and color. Large en-
Later, in the 1880s and 1890s,
circling verandahs, tall chim-
American architects who had
neys, turrets, towers, and a
studied at the Ecole des Beaux
multitude of textures are typi-
Arts in Paris brought a new
cal of the style. The ground
Renaissance Revival to the
floor might be of stone or
United States. Sometimes
PORTSMOUTH ATHENAEUM, NH
brick, the upper floors of stuc-
used in urban mansions, but
NORTHPORT, ME
co, shingle, or clapboard.
The post-Revolutionary style
generally reserved for public
Specially shaped bricks and
sometimes called "Federal"
The builders of many modest
and academic buildings, it
plaques were used for decora-
was more flexible and delicate
structures in northern New
borrowed from three centur-
JOHN PERKINS HOUSE, ME
tion. Panels of stained glass
than the more formal Geor-
England were concerned only
ies of Renaissance detail-
outlined or filled the windows.
In the eastern colonies, Euro-
gian. It evolved from archae-
with function, not with stylistic
much of it French-and put
peans first built houses using a
Gabled or hipped steep roofs,
ological discoveries at Pompeii
considerations. Many farm-
together picturesque combi-
medieval, vertical asymmetry,
and pediments, Venetian win-
and Herculaneum in Italy in
houses and barns do not fit
nations from widely differing
MORSE-LIBBY HOUSE, ME
dows, and front and corner
which in the eighteenth cen-
the 1750s, as well as in con-
easily into any stylistic desig-
periods.
tury evolved toward Classical
bay windows were typical.
temporary French interior
nation, although they grew
The Italianate style began to
symmetry. Roofs were gabled
planning principles. A fan-
out of building traditions of
appear in the 1840s, both in a
ECLECTIC PERIOD
and hipped, often with promi-
shaped window over the door
the colonial period. One dis-
formal, balanced "palazzo"
SHINGLE STYLE
REVIVALS
nent exterior chimneys. Small
is its most characteristic detail.
tinctive regional building type
style and in a picturesque
The Shingle Style bore the
casement windows became
is the connected house and
"villa" style. Both had round-
stamp of a new generation of
larger and more evenly spaced
GREEK REVIVAL
barn, which developed in the
headed windows and arcaded
professional architects led by
and balanced on each facade.
severe climate of Maine and
porches. Commercial struc-
Henry Hobson Richardson
New Hampshire. Simple
tures were often made of cast
(1838-1886). Sheathed in
GEORGIAN
wooden farmhouses are con-
iron, with a ground floor of
wooden shingles, its forms
nected-by means of a rear
large arcaded windows with
were smoothed and unified.
ell, woodshed, carriage house,
smaller windows on each
Verandahs, turrets, and com-
and outhouse-to the barn, an
successive rising story.
plex roofs were sometimes
arrangement that ultimately
used, but they were thorough-
proved to be a fire hazard.
CASTLE IN THE CLOUDS, NH
SECOND EMPIRE
ly integrated into a whole that
emphasized uniformity of sur-
During the first decades of the
GOTHIC REVIVAL
face rather than a jumble of
twentieth century, revivals of
forms. The style was a domes-
diverse architectural styles be-
After about 1830, darker col-
tic and informal expression
came popular in the United
ors, asymmetry, broken sky-
of what became known as
LADY PEPPERRELL HOUSE, ME
States, particularly for resi-
FOLLETT HOUSE, VT
lines, verticality, and the point-
Richardsonian Romanesque.
dential buildings. Architects
Beginning in Boston as early
The Greek Revival manifested
ed arch began to appear. New
designed Swiss chalets, half-
as 1686, and only much later
itself in severe, stripped, recti-
machinery produced carved
RICHARDSONIAN
timbered Tudor houses, and
elsewhere, the design of
linear proportions, occasional-
and pierced trim along the
eaves. Roofs became steep and
ROMANESQUE
Norman chateaus with equal
houses became balanced about
ly a set of columns or pilasters,
enthusiasm. Many of these
a central axis, with only care-
and even, in a few instances,
gabled; "porches" or "piazzas"
PARK-McCULLOUGH HOUSE. VT
Richardsonian Romanesque
houses were modeled on rural
ful, stripped detail. A few
Greek-temple form. It com-
became more spacious. Oriel
large houses incorporated
and bay windows were com-
After 1860, Parisian fashion
made use of the massive forms
structures and constructed in
bined Greek and Roman
and ornamental details of the
double-story pilasters. Sash
inspired American builders to
suburban settings. Although
forms-low pitched pedi-
mon and there was greater use
use mansard roofs, dark col-
Romanesque: rounded arches,
widely divergent in appear-
windows with rectilinear
ments, simple moldings,
of stained glass.
ors, and varied textures, in-
towers, stone and brick facing.
ance, they have similar plans;
panes replaced casements.
rounded arches, and shallow
Hipped roofs accentuated the
cluding shingles, tiles, and
The solidity and gravity of the
site orientations, and general
domes-and was used in offi-
ironwork, especially on balco-
masses were accentuated by
scale, brought about by simi-
balanced and strict propor-
cial buildings and many pri-
nies and skylines. With their
deep recesses for windows and
larities in building sites and by
tions inherited from Italy and
vate houses.
ornamental quoins, balus-
entrances and by rough stone
clients' desires for spacious
Holland via England and
masonry, stubby columns,
interiors.
Scotland.
trades, pavilions, pediments,
columns, and pilasters, Sec-
strong horizontals, rounded
ond Empire buildings recalled
towers with conical caps, and
many historical styles.
repetitive, botanical ornament.