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Originally Processed With FOIA(s): FOIA Number: S; 2004-0734-F; 2009-1186-F S FOIA MARKER This is not a textual record. This is used as an administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential Library Staff. Record Group/Collection: George H.W. Bush Presidential Records Collection/Office of Origin: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File Backup Files Subseries: Chron File, 1989-1993 OA/ID Number: 13740 Folder ID Number: 13740-008 Folder Title: Brazil/Background 12/01/90 [OA 8320] [1] Stack: Row: Section: Shelf: Position: G 26 21 1 7 Encyclopedia Britannica 144 Brazil of Latin America; PIERRE MONBEIG, Ensaios de Geografia Colonial period. The coast of Brazil had been touched Humana Brasileira (1940), a collection of essays on Brazil's in January 1500 by the Spanish navigator Vicente Yáñez human geography; DONALD PIERSON, Negroes in Brazil (1942, Pinzón, but the Spanish crown made no effort to follow reprinted 1967), a good account of the history and sociology up the discovery. Portugal's new possession was at first of this group; ROLLIE E. POPPINO, Brazil: The Land and called Vera Cruz (the True Cross), a name soon aban- People (1968), an excellent, historically oriented introduc- tion to Brazil; T. LYNN SMITH, Brazil: People and Institutions, doned in favour of Brazil after the valuable red dyewood 4th ed. (1972), a sociologist's view of the regions, agriculture, (pau-brasil) with which the country abounded. land settlements, and socio-political institutions; JULIAN H. During the colonial period Brazil was expanded beyond STEWARD (ed.), Handbook of South American Indians, 7 vol. the line of Tordesillas (a vertical line drawn 370 leagues (1946-59), an indispensable reference work. west of the Cape Verde Islands) westward to the slopes The Economy: LUELLA N. DAMBAUGH, The Coffee Frontier of the Andes and northward and southward to the Ama- in Brazil (1959), a monograph on one aspect of the Brazilian zon and the Río de la Plata. In the north the movement economy; GILBERTO FREYRE, Brazil: An Interpretation (1945), was led by missionaries, who established missions along a sociologist's view of development; T. LYNN SMITH and the Amazon in the 17th century. In the northeast, cattle- ALEXANDER MARCHANT (eds.), Brazil: Portrait of Half a men from the sugar zones of Pernambuco and Bahia Continent (1951), a collection of noted works covering sociological and economic aspects; STANLEY J. STEIN, The pushed inland into the present area of Piauí, Maranhão, Brazilian Cotton Manufacture (1957), on the textile industry and Goiás in search of new pastures. The brunt of the from 1850 to 1950; KEMPTON E. WEBB, The Geography of "march to the west," however, was borne by the Paulis- Food Supply in Central Minas Gerais (1959), a basic regional tas, the settlers of São Paulo who organized great ex- study; GEORGE WYTHE, Brazil: An Expanding Economy (1949, peditions into the interior, known as bandeiras, to cap- reprinted 1968), a comprehensive study, emphasizing in- ture Indian slaves and to find gold and precious stones. dustrialization. Some of these expeditions, involving entire families, Transportation: The Anuário Estatístico do Brasil (an- lasted for years. nual), contains the most recent statistical data; ALAN ABOU- During the 17th century, Paulistas explored the area of CHAR, Diagnostic of the Transport Situation in Brazil (1967), Mato Grosso and attacked the Indian missions of Mis- a technical economic analysis; WORLD BANK, Telecommunica- iones and southern Brazil, generally meeting resistance tion (Sector Working Paper, November 1971), includes basic from the Indians and their Jesuit protectors; only along data for Brazil. the Río de la Plata, in modern Uruguay, did the Spanish Administration; social conditions, and cultural life: FER- NANDO DE AZEVEDO, A Cultura Brasileira (1943; Eng. trans., settlers eventually push the Paulistas back. The treaties Brazilian Culture, 1950), a:lavish book covering many aspects of Madrid (1750), El Pardo (1761), and San Ildefonso of Brazilian culture; JOHN J. JOHNSON, Political Change in (1777) with Spain gave some legality to Portuguese Latin America (1958), a major synthesis on South American claims, including the conquests of the bandeiras. politics; MANOEL B. LOURENCO, La Educación en el Brasil An important factor in the unification of the people of (1950; Eng. trans., Education in Brazil, 1951), a general Brazil was the heritage of Portugal; the Portuguese lan- account; SAMUEL PUTNAM, Marvelous Journey: A Survey of guage formed a common bond between plantation resi- Four Centuries of Brazilian Writing (1948), a standard text; dents, cattlemen, miners, slaves (both Indian and Negro), H. JON ROSENBAUM (comp.), Contemporary Brazil: Issues in Economic and Political Development (1972), a discussion of slave hunters, and city dwellers from the Amazon to the new directions in Brazilian government policies of national Río de la Plata and distinguished them from their Span- integration and economic development; JOHN V.D. SAUNDERS ish-speaking counterparts elsewhere in South America. (ed.), Modern Brazil: New Patterns and Development (1971), Although Tupí-Guaraní continued to serve as a sort of essays by 13 specialists, five Brazilians, on population, society, lingua franca throughout much of the interior of the The the economy, and the arts; RONALD M. SCHNEIDER, The colony, Portuguese remained the official and the com- regency of Political System of Brazil: Emergence of a "Modernizing" mon language. Dom Authoritarian Regime, 1964-1970 (1971), an analysis of the The expanded, patriarchal family structure, also derived Pedro social origins, political views, and continuing policy objectives of Brazil's military leadership; T. LYNN SMITH (op. cit.), a from Portugal, was nearly uniform throughout Brazil, vast compilation on major social aspects; CHARLES WAGLEY, and power was exercised by the heads of those families An Introduction to Brazil, rev. ed. (1971), a penetrating and which controlled the land, slaves, cattle, and, later, mines sympathetic interpretation of Brazilian society, its values and that produced the wealth of the colony. Brazilian society aspirations. and the economy were rurally based. The population was divided unevenly between those who possessed landed wealth and prestige and those who were dependent upon Brazil, History of them. No great cities grew up during the colonial period. This article covers the history of Brazil, with emphasis Moreover, contact with Portugal was maintained in all on the national period, and consists of the following parts of Brazil, and little trade or other regular contact sections: existed between Brazil and neighbouring Spanish Brazil to 1889 colonies. These common factors proved far stronger than Colonial period did regional variants when Brazilian unity was under The independence of Brazil severe stress in the second quarter of the 19th century. The Brazilian Empire (1822-89) (See also LATIN AMERICA AND THE CARIBBEAN, COLONIAL.) Brazil since 1889 The independence of Brazil. In 1789 the first rebellion The early republican period against Portuguese authority was instigated by José Jo- Return to representative government aquim da Silva Xavier, known as Tiradentes (Tooth Pull- Military intervention er) because of his occasional practice of extracting teeth. Social and political changes after 1945 The uprising was put down, and Tiradentes was exe- cuted. BRAZIL TO 1889 Despite its isolation, Brazil could not escape the effects The discovery and early settlement of Brazil appear in of the revolutionary and Napoleonic epoch in Europe. the larger perspective of history as episodes in the great In 1807 Napoleon resolved upon the invasion and con- movement of Portuguese colonial expansion to the east. quest of Portugal, a traditional British ally, largely to Vasco da Gama's discovery in 1498 of an all-water route tighten the European blockade of Great Britain. The to the East Indies and Spice Islands by way of the Cape Portuguese prince regent Dom John, afterward King John of Good Hope led the Portuguese crown to dispatch to VI, decided to take refuge in Brazil, the only time a col- India an imposing armada under command of Pedro ony ever served as the seat of government for its mother Ex country. He sailed from the Tagus on November 29, first Álvares Cabral. To avoid the calms off the Gulf of Guinea, Cabral bore so far to the west that on April 22, 1807, under the protection of the British fleet. Accom- Arrival of 1500, the mainland of South America was sighted; the panied by the royal family and a horde of nobles and Dom Job region was promptly claimed by Portugal, as it lay well functionaries, he arrived at Rio de Janeiro on March 7, in 1808. endence within the zone assigned to Portugal by the Treaty of 1808. Tordesillas (1494). The colonists, convinced that a new eΓa had dawned for Brazil, History of 145 Brazil, welcomed their sovereign. The Prince Regent realize that the days of absolutism were past; a new and promptly decreed a number of reforms that radically liberal constitution, drawn up by the Council of State, altered the status of the colony. These included practical was submitted to the municipal councils of the provinces recognition of Brazil's position as seat of the Portuguese and sworn to by the Emperor on March 25, 1824. Pedro's Empire and its new requirements in view of the war in remaining years saw a growing estrangement between Europe. The old Portuguese commercial monopoly was the monarch and his subjects. Parliamentary government abolished and Brazilian harbours were opened to the was little to his liking, and the opposition generally com- commerce of all friendly nations. British trade with manded a majority in the chamber of deputies. Brazil be- Brazil immediately took on important proportions, and came involved in a disastrous war with Argentina result- a number of British trading companies established offices ing in the loss of the Provincia Cisplatina (the present re- in the colony. public of Uruguay). Finally, Pedro formally abdicated on A ministry with four portfolios and a council of state April 7, 1831, in favour of the heir apparent, Dom Pedro were installed in Rio de Janeiro, and a supreme court of de Alacântara, then only five years of age. justice, a court of exchequer and royal treasury, the royal The regency (1831-40). The next decade proved the mint, the Bank of Brazil, and the royal printing office most agitated period in Brazilian history. From 1831 to were established. A royal library, a military academy, 1835 a triple regency tried in vain to end civil war in the and medical and law schools were founded. Industries provinces and lawlessness and insubordination in the were encouraged, foreign scholars and artists were wel- army. In 1834 the constitution was amended to grant a comed, and immigrants from northern Europe were measure of decentralization to the provinces, through the brought in at government expense. The changed status creation of provincial assemblies with considerable local of Brazil was reflected in the decree of December 16, power, and to provide for a sole regent to be elected for 1815, by which the Portuguese dominions were desig- four years. For this office in 1835 a priest, Diogo An- nated the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil, and the tónio Feijó, was chosen. For two years he struggled Algarves, thus making Brazil coequal with Portugal. In against disintegration, but he was forced to resign in 1816 the queen, Maria I, died, and the Prince Regent be- 1837 and was succeeded by Pedro de Araújo Lima. As came king. the end of the decade approached, sentiment began to Although John VI enjoyed a certain degree of personal crystallize in favour of a declaration of majority of the popularity, his corrupt and extravagant government young Dom Pedro. The Brazilians, impatient with the aroused much opposition, which was increased by the regency, hoped to find in the Emperor a symbol to which fermentation of liberal ideas produced by the French the entire nation might rally. On July 23, 1840, both Revolution. In Pernambuco a revolt broke out in 1817 houses of parliament passed a declaration that Pedro de and was put down with difficulty after a republic had Alcântara had attained his majority. been formed that lasted for 90 days. After the departure Pedro II. The reign of Pedro II, lasting practically a of the French, Portugal had been governed by an arbi- half century, constitutes perhaps the most interesting and trary and tyrannical regency. A revolution in 1820 swept fruitful epoch in Brazilian history. The prestige and aside the regency, and the Cortes, which had not met for progress of the nation were due largely to the enlightened Prestige more than a century, was summoned to draw up a con- statesmanship of its ruler. Pedro cared little for the trap- and stitution. pings of royalty. Though not without personal distinction progress The presence of John VI in Portugal was imperative if he was always simple, modest, and democratic. He pos- under the revolutionary movement was to be kept in hand. On sessed an insatiable intellectual curiosity and was never Pedro II The April 22, 1821, he appointed his son Dom Pedro regent, more happy than when conversing with scholars. He was regency of and two days later he set sail for Lisbon. Meanwhile, generous and magnanimous to a fault. One of his favour- Dom antagonisms between the Portuguese and Brazilians were ite occupations was inspecting schools. He was wont to Pedro becoming increasingly bitter, republican propaganda was declare, "If I were not emperor I should like to be a active, and Dom Pedro had to face the responsibility of a school teacher." Yet this kindly, genial, and scholarly separation of Brazil from Portugal as a result of the ruler took his prerogatives and duties as sovereign with shortsighted policy of the Cortes at Lisbon. The majority great seriousness, and in all matters of first importance of this assembly favoured the restoration of Brazil to its he was the final arbiter. According to the moderative former status of colonial dependence. Without waiting power granted to the executive under the constitution of for the Brazilian deputies, they proceeded to undo most 1824, the Emperor had the right to dissolve the Chamber of the reforms introduced into Brazil by John VI. Fear- of Deputies, to select the members of the life senate from ful that Dom Pedro might head a movement for inde- triple lists submitted by the province, and to appoint and pendence, the Cortes ordered the prince to return to Eu- dismiss ministers of state. That parliamentary life in rope. Brazil was pitched upon a high plane, that the highest Supported by the majority of Brazilians, Dom Pedro officials in the state generally left office poorer than when defied the Cortes by his refusal to return to Lisbon. In they entered it, that the machinery of government func- January 1822 he formed a ministry in which the chief tioned smoothly year after year was due in large measure portfolio was held by the distinguished Paulista, José to the vigilance of the Emperor. Bonifácio de Andrada e Silva. On June 3 Dom Pedro Pedro's government maintained an active interest in the convoked a legislative and constituent assembly. On Sep- affairs of the Plata republics, especially of Uruguay, tember 7, on the plain of Ipiranga, near the city of São which it sought to control through indirect measures. Paulo, he solemnly proclaimed the independence of Bra- Brazil aided in the overthrow of the Argentine dictator zil, and on December 1, 1822, he was crowned the na- Juan Manuel de Rosas in 1852. In 1864 Brazil inter- tion's emperor. vened in Uruguayan internal affairs and brought about The strong Portuguese garrisons were forced to return war with Paraguay. In alliance with Argentina and Uru- US-B to Europe. Before the end of 1823 independence had be- guay, Brazil successfully waged the costly and bloody firsts come an accomplished fact. The United States was first Paraguayan War of 1864-70, eventually overthrowing to recognize the new government, on May 26, 1824. Por- the Paraguayan dictator Francisco Solano López. The tuguese recognition was secured in 1825. The early re- empire's relations with the United States and with Eu- sumption of formal relations with Portugal was due in rope were generally cordial. Pedro personally did much large part to the influence and good offices of the British to cement these international friendships, visiting Europe government. in 1871, 1876, and 1888 and going to the United States The Brazilian Empire (1822-89). The first years of in- in 1876. The first dependence were difficult. The nation was without ex- The empire's major social and economic problems were Arrivalor years of perience in self-government, and the Emperor was in- inde- related to slave-based plantation agriculture. Real politi- Slavery Dom John clined to be despotic and arbitrary. When the constituent cal power remained with large rural landholders, who in 1808 pendence assembly proved unmanageable, Pedro I dissolved it in formed the core of the social and economic elite of Bra- 1823 and sent the radical Andrada e Silva and his two zil. Industrialization was still economically insignificant, brothers into exile. Fortunately, however, he came to and, with the decline of gold mining, agriculture was un- 146 Brazil, History of rivalled as the source of Brazil's wealth. Cotton, and in- creasingly coffee, cultivated by slave labour, competed with sugar as the leading export crop. The rural land- RORAIMA holders were largely insulated from the antislavery cur- AMAPA rent of the times. Although manumission was common, and the number of freedmen and their descendants far surpassed the number of slaves in Brazil, the slaveowners Amazon as a group resisted pressures for the complete abolition RIO GRANDE PARÁ DO NORTE of slavery. Partly as a result of pressure from Great Brit- AMAZONAS MARANHÃO CEARÁ ain, Brazil had agreed to abolish the slave trade in 1831, but it was not until 1853 that slave traffic completely PIAUI PARAIBA PERNAMBUCO ceased. Agitation to abolish slavery as such began in the ACRE ALAGOAS 1860s. Pedro was opposed to slavery, but he had to reck- SERGIPE on with the slaveowners. In 1871 a bill for gradual eman- RONDÔNIA BAHIA cipation was passed by Parliament. The importance of GOIAS this act lay in the provision that, henceforth, all children MATO GROSSO Brasdie born of slave mothers should be free. But this concession DISTRITO did not satisfy many of the abolitionists, who, led by a FEDERAL MINAS young lawyer and writer, Joaquim Nabuco de Araújo de- GERAIS manded immediate and complete abolition. Nabuco's ESPÍRITO SANTO book O Abolicionismo (1883) endeavoured to prove SÃO RIO DE JANEIRO Postw that slavery was poisoning the very life of the nation. In PAULO São Rio de Janeiro 1884 Ceará and Amazonas freed their slaves; in 1885 all Paulo, boom GUANABARA PARANÁ bust slaves over 60 years of age were liberated. Finally, com- 1823 1920 plete emancipation without compensation to the owners SANTA CATARINA was decreed by the Princess Regent in the absence of the 1872 1930 Emperor on May 13, 1888. About 700,000 slaves were RID GRANDE freed. 1890 1940 DD SUL The collapse of the empire. Under Pedro II's wise 0 300 600 mi guidance Brazil had made very real progress. His rule 1970 0 300 600 900 km witnessed a growth in population from 4,000,000 to 14,000,000, a fourteenfold increase in public revenues, Growth of population in Brazil: dates by which the states and a tenfold increase in the value of the products of the had achieved a population density of more than two persons per square mile. Empire. Railroad mileage in 1889 exceeded 5,000 miles Adapted from A.C. Wilgus, Latin America in Maps (1943); Barnes and Noble, Inc. (8,000 kilometres); that year more than 100,000 immi- grants came to Brazil. Yet there were grave causes of dissatisfaction. Propaganda in favour of a republic, his administration was rendered largely sterile through the opposition of the disgruntled military elements and launched in 1871, had gained many recruits. The great the necessity of putting down a rebellion in the hinterland landowners, who had lost their slaves without compensa- tion, withdrew their support from the monarchy. The of Bahia. His successor, Manuel Ferraz de Campos Sales clergy had been antagonized by the punishment of sev- (1898-1902), former president of the State of São Paulo, eral recalcitrant bishops. Isabel, the heiress to the throne. is chiefly remembered for his striking success in saving and her husband, the Conde d'Eu, were unpopular. Most Brazil from the financial collapse threatened by the orgy serious, important elements in the army, which had be- of extravagance, inflated currency, and speculation, come a political force after 1870, turned against the Em- which had followed the overthrow of the monarchy. While still president-elect, Campos Sales in 1898 negoti- peror, largely because Pedro insisted that they stay out of politics. A conspiracy was hatched by these disgruntled ated through the Rothschilds a funding loan of £10,- 000,000, interest on which was to be suspended for three military elements, and on November 15, 1889, a revolt years and amortization payments for ten. Because of the of part of the army was the signal for the collapse of the able and economical administration of Campos Sales and empire. Pedro formally abdicated and, with his family, was banished to Europe. the marvelous recuperative power of the country, the credit and finances of Brazil were again placed on a sound BRAZIL SINCE 1889 foundation. Francisco de Paula Rodrigues Alves (1902- The early republican period. For the next 14 months 06), likewise a Paulista, is generally regarded as Brazil's Military ablest civilian president. During his term of office the The Brazil was ruled by a military autocracy in which Mar- capital was transformed into one of the world's most autocracy shal Deodoro da Fonseca, as chief of the provisional gov- develop- beautiful cities. Under the direction of the distinguished ment ernment, was virtually supreme. Decisions of great im- physician and scientist Oswaldo Cruz, Rio de Janeiro of Rio de portance were reached. Church and state were separated, was completely freed from yellow fever. Some of Brazil's Janeiro civil marriage was introduced, and a constituent assem- bly was summoned, which adopted in 1891 a constitution most thorny boundary controversies were settled during modelled closely on that of the United States. the presidencies of Campos Sales and Rodrigues Alves by the able minister of foreign affairs, José Maria de Silva The presidencies. As president, Deodoro da Fonseca Paranhos, barão de Rio Branco. employed the same dictatorial methods that he had fol- lowed as head of the provisional regime. On November President Afonso Pena (served 1906-09) took an impor- 3, 1891, he forcibly dissolved Congress and proclaimed tant step toward the stabilization of the exchange through the creation of the so-called Caixa de Conversão, or Bank himself dictator. But opposition was so widespread that of Conversion, whose function was to redeem inconver- on November 23 he resigned in favour of the vice presi- tible paper currency by the issue of convertible notes se- dent, Marshal Floriano Peixoto. But Peixoto differed lit- cured through the deposit of gold. This project had to be tle in his methods from his predecessor. Of the meaning abandoned on the outbreak of World War I. Pena died in of constitutionalism in the strict sense, he had scant un- derstanding. Growing opposition finally culminated in 1909 and was succeeded by the vice president, Nilo Pe- 1893 in a naval revolt and military uprising that lasted çanha. In the campaign of 1910 the official candidate, Marshal Hermes da Fonseca, nephew of Deodoro da until the following year and were put down only with the greatest difficulty. Fonseca, was opposed by Rui Barbosa, a noted lawyer The advent of a civilian as president was hailed with and publicist. Though the conviction was general that Political role military of t] undisguised relief. Prudente de Morais, who assumed Barbosa had received a majority of the votes cast, the of- ficial machine easily secured the election of Hermes da office in 1894, was a distinguished lawyer of São Paulo and a republican of long standing. Though his intentions Fonseca, during whose administration (1910-14) the high standards set by the first three civilian executives were were excellent and his ability and honesty unquestioned, largely abandoned. Brazil, History of 147 World War I and its aftermath. A change for the bet- stitutional patterns of the republic were voiced by.young ter came with the election of Wenceslau Brás (served military officers, the tenentes, in the mid-1920s; the 1914-18), a former governor of Minas Gerais. His ad- movement they headed culminated in the revolution of ministration was closely associated with Brazil's reaction 1930, which marked the end of the so-called old republic to and participation in World War I. The sympathies of and the beginning of a new era. most Brazilians inclined toward the Allies. On April 11, The Vargas era. When the administration-sponsored 1917, Brazil broke off relations with Germany following presidential candidate was officially declared winner in the torpedoing of the steamer "Paraná" off France. On CEARÁ the 1930 election, a revolt broke out. This successful re- June 1 Brazil revoked its decree of neutrality in the war bellion was led by Getúlio Vargas, governor of the state AUL as a mark of continental solidarity and friendship with of Rio Grande do Sul, who was to remain central in the United States. On October 26, following the sinking Brazilian national life until his suicide in 1954. of more Brazilian ships, Brazil declared war on Ger- Vargas held office as chief executive on two occasions, BAHIA many. Brazil's participation in the war was confined to 1930-45 and 1951-54. Early in the first of these peri- the dispatch of a part of its fleet to European waters and ods, the country's difficulties were essentially economic, the sending of a medical mission and a number of accentuated by a policy of subsidizing coffee production, aviators to the Western Front. Its chief contribution was and the tremendous powers of the states served as steady the placing of its food supplies and other resources un- irritants to the country. In 1934 a new constitution gave reservedly at the disposal of the Allies. Brazil partici- the central government greater powers. Three years later, pated in the peace conference and was given a temporary President Vargas suddenly seized practically absolute seat on the Council of the League of Nations. power and set up still another constitution, under which RIO DE In the election of 1918 a precedent was established by Janeiro he continued as president. The new administration, the re-election of Rodrigues Alves. He was too ill to ac- known as the Estado Nôvo (New State), so concentrated ABARA cept office, however, and died on January 18, 1919. In power in Vargas' hands that he was able to suppress all April, Epitácio Pessoa, a lawyer of note and head of the manifestations of popular will. Vargas stripped Brazil of Brazilian delegation at the Versailles conference, was most of the trappings through which it might eventually elected. His presidency, coinciding with a wave of post- hope to become a democracy. On the other hand, consid- war prosperity, was an era of reckless expenditure ac- erable social legislation was enacted, with positive bene- companied by an immense increase in both the internal fits to the labouring man. 300 and foreign debt. Large sums were absorbed by the Bra- Vargas' policy concentrated upon curtailment of states' 100 600 zilian centenary exposition, which was celebrated in rights, emphasis on nationalism, and the transfer of the 1922. The presidency of Artur Bernardes (served 1922- locus of power from the country to the city. The states 26) was beset with difficulties. The collapse of the boom were increasingly subordinated to the central govern- found Brazil in financial extremities, and the new execu- ment, politically, economically, and socially. The ruinous 1C. tive endeavoured to carry out a policy of strict economy: coffee policies of the past were discarded, manufacturing governmental expenses were cut down, costly public was advanced, and the diversification of agriculture was igh works were postponed, and new sources of revenue, such encouraged. and as the income tax, were created. The success of this pro- After the outbreak of World War II in 1939, Vargas' and gram of retrenchment and reform was compromised by a government supported inter-American solidarity; on Au- les dangerous flareup of militarism. In the closing weeks of gust 22, 1942, it declared war against Germany and Italy. ilo, Pessoa's administration a military group made a desper- Besides participating in the defense of the South Atlantic ing ate but fruitless attempt to prevent Bernardes' inaugura- against Axis submarines, Brazil sent an expeditionary rgy tion. Another revolt was launched in July 1924 at São force to Italy in July 1944 that distinguished itself in sev- on, Paulo city. This, too, was suppressed, but only after eral battles. Brazil also allowed the United States to use hy. heavy loss of life and much property damage. In 1926 certain Brazilian naval and air bases during the war. A oti- Washington Luís, minister of justice in the two preceding number of agreements were signed between the two gov- 0,- administrations, was elected president without a contest. ernments for the economic development and production ree The shift from empire to republic produced little im- of Brazilian raw materials. the mediate change in Brazil's basic political or social insti- Return to representative government. On October 29, and tutions. Under the constitution of 1891, state and munici- 1945, Vargas was overthrown in a bloodless revolution. the pal governments were granted somewhat greater free- When it appeared that the President intended to continue Over- and dom from central control, with a consequent increase in indefinitely in power, a group of high army officers throw 12- the power of local bosses. But no significant new ele- il's forced him to resign, transferring the government to of Vargas ments were added to the political spectrum, and the bulk Chief Justice José Linhares on an interim basis. the The of the population remained outside the political process. Dutra and Vargas. On December 2, 1945, Gen. Eurico ost develop Rural landholders, particularly in the States of São Paulo ed Gaspar Dutra, the former war minister and a loyal friend ment and Minas Gerais, adjusted to the loss of slave labour iro of of Vargas, was elected to a five-year term as president. In and retained their pre-eminence. In São Paulo massive il's Janeiso September 1946 a constituent assembly at Rio de Janeiro immigration from the Mediterranean area before World adopted a new constitution, which confirmed and ing War I provided a new source of rural labour for the ex- strengthened the civil and personal liberties and the mul- ves panding coffee industry. By the late 19th century, coffee Iva tiparty system of representative democracy that had tak- had become the outstanding export crop and source of en effect after the overthrow of Vargas. As was custom- government revenue. Diversification of agriculture and ary in Brazilian constitutions, it recognized the armed or- the expansion and diversification of the mining industry igh provided economic stimulus in Minas Gerais. The old forces as permanent national institutions and the guar- nk antors of constitutional powers. areas of Bahia and Pernambuco gradually declined in po- er- litical significance and were eventually replaced by the in- Dutra showed a sincere determination to govern the country in harmony with the measures of the new con- se- creasingly important state of Rio Grande do Sul, but the be latter did not challenge the political hegemony of the stitution. He outlawed the Communist Party as an un- in democratic, foreign-based organization in May 1947 but central states until 1930. Thus, economic and political Pe- did not otherwise interfere with the free play of political power was concentrated in São Paulo and Minas Gerais during the first four decades of the republic, and national expression or political party activities. Major accomplish- ite, da policies usually reflected the interests of those states. ments of the Dutra administration included the Paulo yer The principal new factor was the political role of the Afonso Dam on the São Francisco River, to provide elec- hat military. After 1889 the armed forces asserted their claim tric power to northeastern Brazil, and the opening of an of- all-weather highway linking that region with the indus- as guarantors of the constitutional process and served trial zones of Minas Gerais and São Paulo. da usually as a check upon the civilian administrations. The igh military also provided the leadership of occasional pro- The general elections of 1950 resulted in a substantial test movements. The first stirrings of social unrest and victory for Vargas. While he failed to secure a clear ere vaguely expressed demands for a modification of the in- majority in the four-way race, he polled 1,500,000 more votes than the runner-up and nearly as many as the com- 148 Brazil, History of bined total for the three rival candidates. Accordingly, suffered a mild heart attack and on November 8, 1955, despite serious reservations by the military leaders who transferred power temporarily to his constitutional suc- had deposed him in 1945, he was installed in the presi- cessor, Carlos Luz, speaker of the Chamber of Deputies. dency once more on January 31, 1951. During his second The following day Luz indicated that he would dismiss period in power, Vargas was unable to dominate the Marshal Lott to resolve a conflict of authority between political forces of the country or to exploit social and the executive and the war minister. This was interpreted Control economic trends to his advantage; he endeavoured to by Kubitschek's backers as the signal for a coup d'etat by anti- abide by the constitution of 1946 and was criticized in by anti-Kubitschek forces. On November 11, 1955, War Vargas some quarters for weak leadership. Lacking a firm ma- Minister Lott and Marshal Odílio Denys, commander of groups jority in the Congress, he could neither enact his own army troops in Rio de Janeiro, staged a "countercoup" to program nor resist the contradictory pressures of his guarantee Kubitschek's inauguration. Luz was deposed, supporters and opponents. The most serious continuing his constitutional successor, Sen. Nereu de Oliveira problem was economic. Brazilians were agreed upon the Ramos, was installed as interim president under a state need for more rapid industrial development and mea- of siege, and Lott remained as war minister and the sures to ameliorate the effects of gradual monetary in- strongest figure in the government. Kubitschek and flation, which persisted as government expenditures con- Goulart took office as scheduled and without incident on sistently outran revenues. Vargas maintained a precarious January 31, 1956. balance between the advocates of greater state interven- During his term of office Kubitschek encouraged the Spread of tion in the economy and those who insisted upon a widespread spirit of nationalism, appealing to the pop- national- favourable climate for domestic and foreign private in- ular demand for economic development and to the belief ism vestment. The situation was complicated by the simul- that Brazil was destined to become a great power among taneous emotional, antiforeign campaign to nationalize the nations of the world. Kubitschek felt that the nation- the natural resources of the country. The campaign cul- al government should play a vital role in economic areas minated in the creation of the national petroleum corpo- unattractive to private capital; thus, his administration ration, Petrobrás, in 1953. undertook ambitious developmental programs for the For three years Vargas' popularity largely protected construction of interregional highways and vast hydro- him from attack by political adversaries, who directed electric power projects, the expansion of iron, steel, pe- their criticism against members of his administration. troleum, and coal production, and assistance to the rapid- João Goulart, Vargas' young protégé and vice president ly growing private industrial sector. Perhaps his out- of the Brazilian Labour Party (PTB), who became minis- standing accomplishment was the construction of Bra- ter of labour in 1953, was accused of using his office to sília on an inland plateau 580 miles (930 kilometres) transform organized labour into a political machine loyal northwest of Rio de Janeiro. Although not yet com- to Vargas. His sponsorship of a decree doubling the mini- pleted, Brasília was dedicated as the official capital of mum wage, thus strengthening labour-administration Brazil on April 21, 1960. The purpose of Brasília was to ties and contributing to the inflationary spiral, led to his focus the attention of Brazilians on the interior of the accession dismissal in 1954. A series of crises followed, climaxed country and to hasten settlement of the region and the on August 5, 1954, by the murder of an air force officer development of its largely untapped resources. The new and the attempted assassination of opposition newspaper capital was denounced by residents of Rio de Janeiro, but editor Carlos Lacerda. Investigation revealed that the Brazilians elsewhere generally regarded it as a symbol of assassins had been hired by the President's personal the nation's future greatness. In inter-American relations, guard. The exposure of widespread corruption within the the Kubitschek administration proposed the adoption of administration caused a wave of revulsion against the Operation Pan America, a cooperative program for the Vargas' former dictator. A group of army officers presented Var- economic development of Latin America, which fore- suicide gas with a demand for his resignation; Vargas complied shadowed the Alliance for Progress. on August 24, 1954, and later that day committed sui- The great material progress during the Kubitschek pe- cide. riod was achieved at a high cost in terms of inflation and Kubitschek's administration. Vice president João Café repeated foreign borrowing. The cost of living and the Filho served out the remainder of Vargas' term. His volume of currency in circulation tripled between 1956 Cabinet included military leaders who had been instru- and 1961, while Brazil's large foreign debt nearly dou- mental in removing Vargas and civilian moderates who bled. The gross national product rose to unprecedented generally favoured political democracy, limited social levels, but living standards for much of the population change, and an orthodox approach to economic ills. Mar- remained stationary or actually declined. At the same shal Teixeira Lott, a highly respected professional soldier time, indications of large-scale graft and favouritism in not identified with any political group, was made war public office disturbed even the normally tolerant Brazil- minister. Much of the Café Filho administration was OC- ian electorate. cupied by preparations for the presidential election of Quadros and Goulart. This situation was debated in October 3, 1955. After the failure of attempts to find a the electoral campaign of 1960. Again there were three single candidate around whom all major political parties candidates for the presidency: Marshal Teixeira Lott might rally, three strong candidates for the presidency who had served as Kubitschek's war minister for more emerged: former Minas Gerais state governor Juscelino than four years; Jânio Quadros, the unorthodox for- Kubitschek de Oliveira, popularly regarded as Vargas' mer governor of São Paulo and at that time congress- 0 political heir; former São Paulo state governor Ademar man from the State of Paraná; and Adhemar de Barros, de Barros, with broad backing from financial and com- 6, then mayor of the city of São Paulo. It was soon clearly mercial groups; and Marshal Juárez Távora, considered a race between Lott and Quadros. Lott received official as the representative of conservative military and civilian backing and campaigned on the Kubitschek record. Qua- groups. In the 1955 election Kubitschek was the victor dros, who was not a regular member of any political Pt with slightly more than one third of the total vote, Tá- party was supported by the largest conservative party, vora ran a close second, and Barros was a somewhat the National Democratic Union (UDN), and a heteroge- more distant third; in the separate vice-presidential elec- neous grouping of lesser political factions. With a new tion, João Goulart won with a large plurality. The elec- broom as his symbol, Quadros caught the public's imagi- tion was widely interpreted as a popular vindication of nation as the candidate of the common man. He prom- the Vargas position. The illegal but active Communist ised a scrupulously honest administration, curbs on infla- Party, which had thrown its unsolicited support to Ku- tion, effective economic development, dignity for the in- bitschek, claimed to have provided his margin of victory. dividual, and an aggressively "independent" foreign pol- Rumours of a Café Filho administration plot to use un- icy. Goulart was once more a candidate for the vice-pres- constitutional means to prevent the inauguration of idency. At the polls on October 3, 1960, Quadros won Kubitschek and Goulart were not proved, but the con- election with a plurality of 48 percent of the popular servative press-which regarded Kubitschek as a danger- vote. He received more than 5,600,000 votes, the largest ous radical-added to the tension. President Café Filho number ever cast for a presidential candidate in Brazil. Brazil, History of 149 Goulart, a political enemy of Quadros, won a narrow vic- and conservative opposition. Goulart surrounded him- 5, in the vice presidential race, polling slightly more self with left-wing advisers. He sought to neutralize the C- jory than 4,000,000 votes. Quadros and Goulart were inaugu- armed forces by frequent command changes and by de- Opposition S. SS rated on January 31, 1961. veloping a personal following among noncommissioned to Goulart en The election of Quadros was hailed as a revolution by officers and enlisted personnel. After failing to obtain ed ballot. For the first time in three decades, anti-Vargas po- authorization for a state of siege, which would have en- Nitical groups controlled the presidency. Quadros took hanced his powers, Goulart appealed directly to the at office in an atmosphere of popular expectation, but al- people for support. At a mass rally in Rio de Janeiro ar most immediately he encountered resistance from the in March 1964, he instituted a controversial agrarian of to Congress, where parties loyal to the Vargas tradition still reform and nationalized certain privately owned oil ed, commanded a large majority. Quadros' arbitrary and au- refineries. Many military officers and opposition po- ira locratic manner, which soon alienated many of his for- litical leaders had already become convinced that Gou- ate pact adherents, further reduced the possibility of enacting lart was seeking to establish a dictatorship of the left. the meaningful reform program or effective measures to re- During 1963 active plotting began among separate civil- and inflation. In foreign affairs Quadros was more suc- ian and military groups in different parts of the country. nd cessful; his foreign policy, which was applauded by ultra- Gov. José de Magalhães Pinto of Minas Gerais state and on nationalists and deplored by moderates, seemed designed Marshal Humberto de Alencar Castelo Branco, chief of to move Brazil toward neutralist nations and away from staff of the army, emerged as the chief coordinators of the the nat the traditional ties with the United States. He opposed conspiracy. An attempt was made to find a formula to op- lief any inter-American action to censure the Castro regime prevent a coup d'etat by the President and still permit ism in Cuba and initiated proceedings to resume or establish him to complete his term in office. At the same time, ong on- diplomatic and commercial relations with the Soviet plans were made to overthrow the regime if necessary. Union and its European satellites. On August 25, 1961, The administration's refusal to suppress a strike by naval reas tion after less than seven months in office, Quadros resigned enlisted men in late March 1964 was regarded by the op- the unexpectedly, alleging that "terrible forces" had deterred position as intolerable, for military authority and disci- iro- him. The congress promptly installed Pascoal Ranieri pline were considered the last check on Goulart's alleged Mazzilli, speaker of the Chamber of Deputies, as tempo- ambitions. On March 31, 1964, Magalhães Pinto pro- pe- pid- rary president. Vice president João Goulart, the constitu- claimed a revolution against the government by the civil out- tional successor, was then en route home from a state and military forces in Minas Gerais; the following day he Bra- visit to China. was joined by the political leaders of the States of São tres) Brazil stood at the brink of civil war. Many military Paulo and Guanabara and by the armed forces through- :om- commanders and conservatives regarded Goulart as too out most of Brazil. On April 2 Goulart fled into exile and il of radical to be entrusted with the nation's highest office, two days later he reached Uruguay. The Congress de- as to while the great majority of civilian political leaders up- clared his office vacant and designated Mazzilli as interim the held his constitutional right to the presidency. War Min- president until a successor could be chosen to serve out ister Odílio Denys now emerged as the chief spokesman the remainder of term. 1 the of the anti-Goulart forces, demanding that the Congress Castelo Branco's administration. With the fall of new , but declare the office of vice president vacant and hold new Goulart, real power passed to the leaders of the revolu- ol of elections. The Congress refused. In southern Brazil the tion, who instituted sweeping political changes. The revo- tions, commanders of the powerful army and air force units lutionary commanders set out to restore economic and on of defied orders from the capital and sided with Goulart. financial order, to eliminate what the generals claimed r the Goulart arrived in Pôrto Alegre, insisting that he was al- was "Communist infiltration," and to purge corrupt and fore- ready president of Brazil. Faced with the imminent pros- subversive elements. At the same time they desired to pect of armed conflict, the Congress and the anti-Goulart retain a modified form of representative government. On k pe- group in the military agreed upon a compromise solu- April 9, 1964, these goals were combined in the First The First n and tion: that Goulart be allowed to take office, but only as a Institutional Act, a modification of the 1946 constitution. Institu- d the Heurehead. On September 2, 1961, the parliamentary sys- The executive was granted temporary authority to cancel tional Act 1956 sem of government was adopted by constitutional amend- the mandates of elected officials, to dismiss public ser- dou- ment; most presidential powers were transferred to the vants, and to revoke for ten years the political rights of lented newly created post of prime minister. Provision was those found guilty of subversion or misuse of public lation made for a national plebiscite on the parliamentary ex- funds. periment before the end of the presidential term. Goulart same During the six months these provisions were in effect, ism in accepted these conditions and was formally confirmed as thousands were arrested, and hundreds of persons-in- Brazil- president on September 7, 1961. cluding union and government officials and former presi- Once the immediate crisis of the presidential succession dents Goulart, Quadros, and Kubitschek-were deprived ted in was settled, the political parties resumed debate on press- of political rights. The Congress was retained as a legis- three ins national issues but postponed significant legislation lative body with power to debate and amend but not re- a Lott rending the outcome of congressional elections in Octo- ject proposals submitted to it by the executive. On April ber 1962. When these failed to indicate a clear mandate more 11, 1964, Castelo Branco was elected president by the X for-I for or against the administration's reform proposals, the Congress. José Maria Alkmin, finance minister under opponents of parliamentarianism, led by Goulart, de- ngress- Kubitschek, was chosen as vice president. On July 22 the Barros, manded a quick return to presidential rule. On January Congress extended the terms of Castelo Branco and Alk- clearly 1963, a national plebiscite by a margin of more than min to March 15, 1967. official five to one gave Goulart full presidential powers. Goulart Castelo Branco's extended term was regarded by the d. Qua- was unable to secure majority support for his legislative revolutionaries as a transition period during which sweep- olitical togram, however, and repeated Cabinet changes and ing political and economic reforms should be enacted Acw plans for economic and social development did noth- party, before the nation could again be entrusted to a popularly 5g to restrict inflation and soaring living costs, which teroge- elected government. It was generally agreed by the new a new reached alarming proportions under Goulart. During the leaders that such alleged shortcomings of the political S imagi- two and one-half years of his administration, there was process as the multiplicity of small, regional, and per- e prom- senfold drop in the dollar value of the currency, the sonalist parties, opportunistic electoral coalitions, and on infla- cost of living tripled, and the growth of the gross national the separate election of president and vice president must the in- toduct, which had been rising by 6 to 7 percent yearly, be corrected, but they were divided over the best means sign pol- was brought to a complete halt. to attain these ends. The President's determination to Military intervention. As the situation grew more des- ice-pres- achieve reform by legislation, while permitting normal perate, cooperation between the regime and its critics be- ros won political activities and full freedom of expression by popular came more difficult. The administration identified itself critics of the regime, was challenged by civilian and mili- e largest creasingly with the ultranationalistic left, while most of tary extremists who called for dissolution of Congress, n Brazil. Re military officer corps sympathized with the moderate abolition of political parties, and suspension of all par- 150 Brazil, History of tisan activities until the revolutionary regime had enough part markedly from the course set by his predecessor. time to consolidate its power. His administration rejected petitions for a general am- The test came in October 1965, when gubernatorial elec- nesty, resisted all proposals to amend the new constitution tions were held in 11 states and opposition candidates to restore direct elections, quashed attempts to form a were elected by substantial majorities in the key states of second opposition party, and forcefully suppressed stu- Minas Gerais and Guanabara. The extremists interpreted dent disturbances. More serious political opposition, how- the results as a great setback for the revolutionary gov- ever, was muted in part by the government's achieve- ernment. Accusing Castelo Branco of not pressing the ments in the economic field. revolutionary reform program with enough vigour, they The political situation deteriorated rapidly late in 1968. blamed him for the defeat of their candidates and de- Faced with a resurgence of public and congressional crit- Growing manded that he annul the two elections. When he refused icism, Costa e Silva, under strong pressure from the opposition to comply with their demands, they plotted a coup d'etat. armed forces, seized emergency powers. The Fifth In- At this point, Marshal Artur da Costa e Silva, the min- stitutional Act issued on December 13 suspended all leg- ister of war, intervened and persuaded the dissident lead- islative bodies indefinitely, authorized the executive to ers to keep the peace in return for Castelo Branco's rule by decree, and provided the legal basis for a new promise to take stronger measures to enact the revolu- purge of outstanding political critics. tion's reform program. When in August 1969 Costa e Silva suffered a paralytic On October 27, 1965, Castelo Branco signed the Second stroke, the government was taken over by the three Emer- Institutional Act, which suspended all existing political armed forces ministers, who held power till October when gency parties, restored the president's emergency powers for the government selected Gen. Emílio Garrastazú Médici measures the remainder of his term, and set October 3, 1966, as the as the new president. Elections for federal and state sen- date for new presidential elections. An artificial two-party ators and deputies and municipal officials in November system was imposed upon the country. The new political 1970 showed a clear victory for Médici and the Arena parties were the Aliança Renovadora Nacional (or Na- party. Disturbances continued, however, through 1970 tional Renewal Alliance, called Arena), sponsored by the and 1971, kidnapping of foreign consular and diplomatic government, and an opposition party, the Movimento officials being added to the arsenal of the dissidents. Democrático Brasileiro (or Brazilian Democratic Move- Médici in 1971 presented the First National Develop- ment; MDB). A third party was theoretically possible, but ment Plan, which was aimed at 8 to 10 percent annual as a practical matter all active political factions were economic growth and per capita income of at least $500 required to function within those two parties. Arena soon (U.S.) per year (in 1972 it was estimated to be $400). attracted a heterogeneous grouping of pro-administration Development of the Northeast and the Amazon area, elements, while the MDB came to be composed largely of especially by means of a program of road construction former followers of Goulart and of politicians who had and one of redistribution of land, was also planned. broken with the revolutionary regime. Neither party en- In August 1973 a bill creating the electoral college that joyed strong grass-roots support. Because the president from 1974 onward would elect the president and vice was elected by the Arena-dominated Congress, the MDB president became law. In September the national conven- refused to nominate candidates. The administration can- tion of the Arena party selected as its candidates for pres- didates, Costa e Silva and Pedro Aleixo, the minister of ident and vice president, respectively, Gen. Ernesto education, were elected. Geisel, a chief executive of the government-owned petro- Castelo Branco in December 1966 called an extraordi- leum company, Petrobrás, and Gen. Adalberto Pereira nary session of Congress to approve a new constitution dos Santos. They were duly elected by the electoral col- drafted by a government-appointed commission. The lege on January 15, 1974. Constitu- new document, promulgated on January 24, 1967, incor- The 10th anniversary of the revolution was celebrated tion porated much of the revolutionary reform program and by lifting the prohibition on political activities of 106 of 1967 confirmed the expansion of the power of the executive leaders of the former regime, among them Kubitschek, and of the central government. Important changes in- Quadros, and Goulart. The Fifth Institutional Act, how- cluded the indirect election of the president and vice ever, remained in force. A surprising victory for the MDB president from a single ticket; reduction of the presiden- in the congressional elections in November 1974, in which tial term from five to four years; the use of military the opposition gained 20 seats in the Senate, was not courts to judge civilians charged with violation of na- repeated in the municipal elections of November 1976. tional security laws; the granting of authority to the In April 1977 President Geisel dismissed Congress when president to issue emergency decrees without consulting it failed to pass judicial reforms that he had requested. Congress; and denial to the Congress of the right to de- Under the emergency powers of the Fifth Institutional lay action on legislation requested by the executive. Act, Geisel then issued decrees instituting those reforms The Castelo Branco administration engaged in unprece- and other electoral and constitutional changes. Among dented economic planning in order to contain inflation these were provisions for the indirect election of state proletariat and to revive the flagging economy. It employed emer- governors and one-third of the federal senators and the gency powers to limit and regulate sources of credit, to increase of the presidential term to six years. The num- restructure the tax system and collection procedures, and ber of members of the Chamber of Deputies was to be to impose wage and salary controls. These measures af- based on the total population of the states instead of on fected all sectors of society but bore most heavily on ur- the number of registered voters, and constitutional ban labour and white-collar workers, whose real income amendment could be effected by an absolute majority of was held below the rising cost of living. The adverse ef- Congress rather than the two-thirds vote of two succes- fects were partially offset by tax incentives to encourage sive sessions formerly required. increased industrial and agricultural productivity. At the Brazil's phenomenal rate of economic growth in these same time the government poured substantial invest- years-the gross national product of 1973 was nearly ments into electric power and transportation to provide double that of 1964-was halted by the petroleum crisis for continued orderly economic development. Although of 1973-74. Because the country imported 70 to 80 per- the administration did not achieve all of its goals, Brazil's cent of its oil, the trade deficit had risen to $6,000,000,000 credit rating abroad was firmly re-established, the an- by the end of 1976 and inflation had reached an annual nual rise in living costs fell from 86 percent in 1964 to rate of 45 percent. A stringent program to reduce govern- 41 percent in 1966, and the increase in the gross national ment spending and imports and to increase exports was product rose significantly. With the exception of labour, introduced in 1977. every major sector of the Brazilian economy was on the Social and political changes after 1945. In certain re- upswing when Castelo Branco left office. spects, the phase of Brazilian political history that began Administrations of Costa e Silva, Médici, and Geisel. with the overthrow of the Estado Novo and the election Costa e Silva promised to humanize the revolution, and it of a president and Congress responsible to the electorate was widely expected that he would soon relax the more ended with the revolution of 1964. The latter event dis- severe political and economic policies. Yet he did not de- pelled any lingering doubts that the armed forces were Brazil, History of 151 the strongest political organization in Brazil. The ease Extension of the franchise to illiterates would greatly with which military leaders assumed and retained power enlarge the size of the electorate and increase the influ- & on clearly revealed the failure of the postwar political parties ence of the lower class on Brazilian politics. It would to develop into cohesive national bodies capable of win- also enhance the political power of rural society at the a ning the respect and allegiance of the voting public and expense of the city dwellers. But even though about 59 u- W- of resolving the critical problems of economic develop- percent of the rural population was still unable to read 'e- ment and social justice. Charges made by the right-wing and write in the early 1970s and was therefore still denied opposition of the ineffectiveness of populist civilian ad- the vote, the political consciousness of the peasantry had 58. ministrations in the early 1960s paved the way for the been awakened. Through illegal peasant leagues, founded Rural it- retreat after 1964 to paternalistic rule by a narrow elite. in the late 1950s, and legitimate rural unions, which were political Yet, in a deeper sense, fundamental economic and so- authorized in 1962, many peasants were able for the first power he In- cial trends encouraged by the Vargas regime after 1930 time to make their needs known to the political leaders. eg- were only slightly modified by the representative govern- Before the revolution of 1964, the Communists, a few to ments after 1945 or by the revolutionary governments clergymen, and members of nearly all legal parties were ew after 1964. The fact that the political forces that had competing for the allegiance of the rural masses, appeal- just regained freedom of expression in 1945 were unani- ing to their demands for social justice and higher stan- mously agreed upon the need for a new national charter dards of living. Although most peasant organizations were tic dramatically illustrated their awareness that a return to abolished and many agitators were jailed or exiled after ree the re-1930 status quo was impossible. While the con- 1964, limited measures were enacted by the federal gov- nen stitution of 1946 borrowed heavily from that of 1891 in ernment to assuage rural unrest. The peasantry remains lici en- certain exterior forms, a comparison of the two charters potentially the most powerful political force in Brazil. reveals the nature and extent of the socio-economic trans- The church. After 1964 the Roman Catholic Church ber ena formation that Brazil experienced after 1930. The con- in Brazil, as one of the few effective institutions orga- stitution of 1891, despite its positivist trappings, was nized nationwide, was drawn into the partial political vac- 970 atic essentially a 19th-century liberal document that stressed uum caused by the purge of populist civilian leaders and the rights of the individual and of state governments as the abolition of established political parties. Several bish- lop- opposed to the national administration. The constitution ops led the secular and regular clergy in denouncing the of 1946 largely reaffirmed Vargas' concentration of power government's apparent indifference to the vast inequities nual in the central government and acknowledged the federal in Brazilian society. Clerics also served as champions of 500 responsibility for maintaining and fostering economic de- the right of dissent, and by the late 1960s the church had 00). velopment and social welfare programs. These trends become a rallying point for political opposition. rea, tion were accelerated under the military rulers in the new na- The armed forces. The armed forces, final arbiters of tional charter of 1967. the political process in Brazil, were neither blind nor in- Influence Rural and urban developments. The changes that be- different to the objectives of the new groups that entered of the that gan in 1930 reflect basic socio-economic developments, the political scene after 1945. The traditional alliance of armed vice such as population growth and an increase in urbaniza- the military forces and conservative rural landholders had forces ven- tion and in participation in the political process, which long since been replaced by an informal similarity of ores- gave new dimensions and added complexity to Brazilian views between military officers and urban middle class esto politics. In 1930 Brazil had a population of about 33,- sectors. The armed services consistently defended cen- etro- reira 300,000, of whom at least three-fourths were rural and tralized government, rapid industrialization, and the de- illiterate, hence could not vote. By 1945 the population velopment of an efficient, organized labour force. They col- bad risen to about 46,000,000; two-thirds of these were were quick, however, to resent the exploitation of orga- rated rural and largely outside the political arena. In 1964 the nized labour by political leftists as a counterweight to the population surpassed 80,000,000 and was divided equally political influence of the military officers. Between 1945 106 chek, between rural and urban inhabitants; the proportion of and 1964 no single political party was able to elect a how- literates was also about 50 percent, but at least half of president or a majority in Congress. Because this situation MDB these were under voting age. By the time of the election encouraged political irresponsibility, the armed forces, of 1974, the population had reached almost 105,000,000, always at the behest of civilian political elements, inter- which of which 56 percent was urban. Attendance at the polls vened on four occasions to protect national institutions S not 1976. rose to 80 percent of the total of 36,000,000 registered against what they considered to be civilian incompetence. when voters. It appeared certain that the bulk of the voters en- Beginning in 1964, military leaders initiated a major revi- ested. franchised after 1930 belonged to the urban working class sion of the political system, which, in their view, would tional and government bureaucracy. make it impossible for men who placed partisan before forms With the formation of government-directed trade unions national interest to come to power. mong in the 1930s, a politically conscious urban proletariat de- veloped. This did not, however, signify the emergence BIBLIOGRAPHY. E. BRADFORD BURNS (ed.), A Documentary state of a true labour-based political movement or an authen- History of Brazil (1966), excerpts from historical documents id the from between 1595 and 1964, translated into English-an in- num- tic labour party. Leadership of this new political force dispensable work because of the original information it to be was contested by the traditional elite, principally land- gives; JOSE HONORIO RODRIGUES, Aspirações Nacionais, 4th of on owners and large merchants, and by a new middle class rev. ed. (1970; Eng. trans., The Brazilians: Their Character tional composed of industrial, commercial, and professional and Aspirations, 1967), a synthesis and interpretation of prin- rity of persons who had gained elite status. The governments cipal facets of the Brazilian character and of the objectives ucces- after 1964 continued to control labour organizations in of the nation; CAIO PRADO, JR., Formação do Brasil Contem- an effort to gain labour support while discouraging the porâneo, 7th ed. (1963; Eng. trans., The Colonial Background these formation of a potentially dissident labour movement. of Modern Brazil, 1967), a masterpiece of interpretation of nearly Before 1966 the new middle class, which had not yet the colonial period; ALAN K. MANCHESTER, British Preëminence in Brazil, Its Rise and Decline (1933; reprinted 1964), a study 1 crisis acquired a strong enough sense of class consciousness to of relations between Great Britain and Brazil, with emphasis 30 per- regard itself as a distinct social element, did not seek a on the British influence in Brazil; C.H. HARING, Empire in 00,000 unified political expression. Rather, it vied with the tradi- Brazil: A New World Experiment with Monarchy (1958; re- annual Donal-ruling groups for control of existing political or- printed 1968), a good introductory book to the imperial govern- ranizations. Members of both groups were found in the period in Brazilian history; JOSE MARIA BELLO, História da rts was eadership of virtually every party for two decades after República, 5th ed. (1964; Eng. trans., A History of Modern 1945, although urban-oriented parties grew consistently Brazil, 1889-1964, with a new concluding chapter by ROLLIE tain re- at the expense of more traditional, rural-based parties. E. POPPINO, 1966), a basic work in English dealing with the began By and large the middle class endorsed the revolution of history of republican Brazil; HENRY W. SPIEGEL, The Brazilian election 1964, but many of its political spokesmen later broke with Economy: Chronic Inflation and Sporadic Industrialization (1949), an analysis of Brazil's economic problems, with em- ctorate the revolutionary regime, and middle class political lead- phasis on the contradictions that plague its structure; THOMAS ent dis- crs were found in each of the new political parties cre- E. SKIDMORE, Politics in Brazil, 1930-1964 (1967), the best sted in 1965. es were available study of Brazilian politics for this period. KEY OFFICERS The Department of State, Bureau of Diplomatic Security, can also OF FOREIGN provide current data on the security situation to interested persons SERVICE POSTS planning trips abroad. American business representatives desiring this information should contact the Diplomatic Security Service, Overseas Support Programs Division (202) 647-3122. Guide for Business Representatives Some of the services jointly provided by the Departments of State and Commerce to U.S. business firms interested in The Key Officers Guide lists key officers at Foreign Service posts establishing a market for their products, or expanding sales with whom American business representatives would most likely abroad, include; have contact. All embassies, missions, consulates general, and consulates are listed. -The Trade Opportunities Program (TOP) that provides specific At the head of each U.S. diplomatic mission are the Chief of export sales leads of U.S. products and services; Mission (with the title of Ambassador, Minister or Charge -World Traders Data Report (WTDR) that provides detailed d'Affaires) and the Deputy Chief of Mission. These officers are financial and commercial information on individual firms abroad responsible for all components of the U.S. Mission within a country, upon request from U.S. companies; including consular posts. -Agent Distributor Service (ADS) that helps U.S. firms find At larger posts, Commercial Officers represent U.S. commercial agents or distributors to represent their firms and market their interests within their country of assignment. Specializing in U.S. products abroad; and export promotion, Commercial Officers assist American business -Information about foreign markets for U.S. products and through: arranging appointments with local business and govern- services and U.S.-sponsored exhibitions abroad in which American ment officials, providing counsel on local trade regulations, laws, firms can participate and demonstrate their products to key foreign and customs; identifying importers, buyers, agents, distributors, buyers. and joint venture partners for U.S. firms; and other business In all matters pertaining to foreign trade, the nearest U.S. assistance. Department of Commerce District Office should be your first point At smaller posts, U.S. commercial interests are represented by of contact. Foreign trade specialists at these facilities render Economic/Commercial Officers who also have economic respon- valuable assistance to U.S. business representatives engaged in sibilities. international commerce. Financial Attaches analyze and report on major financial devel- For additional information about Foreign Service assistance to opments and their implications for U.S. policies and programs. American business overseas, or for specialized assistance with Political Officers analyze and report on political developments unusual commercial problems, you are invited to visit, telephone, and their potential impact on U.S. interests. or write the Office of Commercial, Legislative, and Public Affairs, Labor Officers follow the activities of labor organizations and Bureau of Economic and Business Affairs, U.S. Department of State, can supply information on wages, nonwage costs, social security Washington, D.C. 20520-5816. Telephone (202) 647-1942. regulations, labor attitudes toward American investments, etc. Consular Officers extend to U.S. citizens and their property abroad the protection of the U.S. Government. They maintain lists of local attorneys, act as liaison with police and other officials and DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE have the authority to notarize documents. The Department recom- DISTRICT OFFICES mends that business representatives residing overseas register with the consular officer; in troubled areas, even travelers are advised to ALABAMA register. CONNECTICUT The Administrative Officer is responsible for the normal business Birmingham-Suite 302-Berry Bldg., Hartford-Rm. 610-B, Fed.Off. Bldg., 2015 2d Ave., North, 35203; operations of the post, including purchasing for the post and its 450 Main St., 06103; Tel (205) 731-1331 Tel (203) 240-3530 commissary. Regional Security Officers are responsible for providing physical, ALASKA DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA procedural, and personnel security services to U.S. diplomatic facili- Anchorage-222 West 7th Ave., U.S. Department of Commerce, Room ties and personnel; their responsibilities extend to providing in- P.O. Box 32, 99513-7591; 1066, 14th & Constitution, NW. 20230; Tel (907) 271-5041 country security briefings and threat assessments to business Tel (202) 377-3181 executives. ARIZONA FLORIDA Scientific Attaches follow scientific and technological Phoenix-Federal Bldg., Room 3412, Miami-Suite 224, Fed. Bldg, 51 S.W. developments in the country. 230 N. First Ave., 85025; First Ave., 33130; Tel (305) 536-5267 Tel (602) 379-3285 Agricultural Officers promote the export of U.S. agricultural Clearwater-128 N. Osceola Ave., products and report on agricultural production and market ARKANSAS 34615; Tel (813) 461-0011 developments in their area. Little Rock-Suite 811, Savers Fed. Jacksonville-3100 University Blvd. The AID Mission Director is responsible for AID programs, Bldg., 320 W. Capitol Ave. 72201; South Suite 200A, 32216; including dollar and local currency loans, grants, and technical Tel (501) 378-5794 Tel (904) 791-2796 assistance. CALIFORNIA Orlando-Room 346-CEBA II, College of Business Administration The Public Affairs Officer is the post's press and cultural affairs San Francisco-Fed. Bldg., Box 36013, U of Central Fla. 32802; Tel. (407) specialist and maintains close contact with the local press. 450 Golden Gate Ave., 94102; 648-1608 Business representatives planning a trip overseas should include Tel (415) 556-5860 Tallahassee-Collins Bldg., Rm 401, in their preparations a visit or telephone call to the nearest U.S. Los Angeles-Rm. 9200, 11000 Wilshire 107 W. Gaines St., 32304; Department of Commerce District Office. The District Office can Blvd., 90024; Tel (213) 209-7104 Tel (904) 488-6469 provide extensive information and assistance as well as a current San Diego-6363 Greenwich Dr., GEORGIA list of legal holidays in the countries to be visited. If desired, the Suite 145, 92122; Tel. (619) 557-5395 Atlanta-Suite 504, 1365 Peachtree St. District Officer can also provide advance notice to posts abroad of Santa Ana-116 W. 4th St., Suite 1, 92701; Tel (714) 836-2461 NE., 30309; Tel (404) 347-7000 the representative's visit. San Jose-111 W. St. John St, Rm. 424, Savannah-120 Barnard St., A-107, 95113; Tel (408) 291-7648 31401; Tel (912) 944-4204 COLORADO HAWAII Denver-1625 Broadway, Suite 600, Honolulu-4106 Fed. Bldg., P.O. Box 80202; Tel (303) 844-3246 50026, 300 Ala Moana Blvd., 96850; Tel (808) 451-1782 Spring 1990 Foreign Service Post Information F-11 BARBADOS-BRAZIL BARBADOS BENIN BRIDGETOWN (E), P.O. Box 302; Box B, FPO Miami 34054; Tel [809] 436-4950 COTONOU (E), Rue Caporal Anani Bernard; B.P. 2012; thru 7; Telex 2259 USEMB BG1 WB; FAX (809)429-5246; Canadian Imperial Tel [229] 30-06-50; FAX [229] 30-19-74 Bank of Commerce Bldg., Broad Street, Bridgetown, Barbados AMB: Harriet W. Isom AID: Mark Wentling ECO/COM: Michele J. Sison (resident in Lome) CON: Michael I. Dane ATO: AMB: (Vacant) RSO: Alan Hemphill George W. Goodrich III ADM: James H. Webb CHG: John E. Clark AGR: (resident in Lagos) Lloyd Fleck RSO: Kevin O'Neil (resident in Lome) ODA: POL/ECO: Robert W. Beckham Col Jerry R. Fry USA (resident in Caracas) ECO: Anthony C. Newton PAO: Herman W. Henning AID: (resident in Abidjan) Aaron Williams CON: Thomas Cairns PAO: Katherine Lee BERMUDA COM: (Vacant) ODA: Ltc Armand P. Haynes USA LAB: (Vacant) MLO: HAMILTON (CG), Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire; Cdr Dean W. Schopp USN ADM: Ross Cook P.O. Box HM305, Hamilton HMBX; AMCON FPO NY 09560-5300; Tel [809] 295-1342; FAX (809)295-1592 CG: L. Ebersole Gaines BELGIUM INS: Edward R. Moore DPO: Peter S. Maher IRS: James Rideoutte BRUSSELS (E), 27 Boulevard du Regent; B-1000 Brussels; APO NY 09667- CON: Lili Ming (resident in Nassau) 1000; Tel [32] (2) 513-3830; Telex 846-21336; FAX [32](2)511-2725 LAB: Anthony Kern RSO: Steven Cox (resident inWashington) (resident in Ottawa) AMB: Maynard W. Glitman RSO: Richard M. Gannon POL/ECO: David A. Denny CUS: Paul Somers DCM: Donald J. McConnell AGR: John M. Beshoar ADM: Lawrence F. Connell USDA: Thomas Billak POL: Thomas H. Gewecke PAO: John P. Harrod NASA: Steven Stompf ECO: Arnold J. Croddy, Jr. DAO: Col Raymond K. Bluhm, Jr. COM: James E. Winkelman USA BOLIVIA LAB: Paul W. Hilburn, Jr. ODC: Col Alfred K. Muelhoefer LA PAZ (E), Banco Popular Del Peru Bldg., Corner of Calles Mercado and CON: John M. Jones USAF Colon; P.O. Box 425 La Paz; APO Miami 34032; Tel [591](2) 350251, 350120; ADM: Nicholas S. Baskey, Jr. FAA: Benjamin Demps, Jr. Telex AMEMB BV 3268; FAX [591](2)359875 AMB: Robert S. Gelbard RSO: Dale A. Karlen US MISSION TO THE NORTH ATLANTIC TREATY ORGANIZATION DCM: Marilyn McAfee AGR: Gary C. Groves (USNATO), Autoroute de Zaventem; B-1110 Brussels; APO NY 09667-5028; POL: James C. Cason (resident in Lima) Tel [32] 242-5280; FAX (2)242-0696, FAX USIS (2)242-7768 ECO/COM: Leslie Sternberg AID: G. Reginald Van Raalte LAB: US PERM REP: Gregory L. Berry PAO: Robert J. Callahan POL ADV: Craig G. Dunkerly Amb. William H. Taft, IV CON: Roger J. Daley ECO ADV: E. Mark Linton NAU: Brian R. Stickney DEP PERM REP/DCM: John C. ADM: Russell F. King IAGS: Charles E. Klimicek PUB AFF ADV: Barry Fulton IRS: Vincent Gambino Kornblum ADM ADV: Henry M. Reed II DAO: Col Charles Hogan USAF DEF ADV: David R. Nicholas (resident in Sao Paulo) MILGP: Col Richard L. Bevington USA US MISSION TO THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES (USEC), BOTSWANA 40 Blvd. du Regent; B-1000 Brussels; APO NY 09667-1030; GABORONE (E), P.O. Box 90; Tel [267] 353-982; Telex 2554 AMEMB BD; Tel [32] (2) 513-4450; Telex 21336; FAX (2)511-2092 FAX [267]353-982, x313; after hours: Tel [267]312-960 AMB: Thomas M. T. Niles CUSTOMS ATT: Alice M. Rigdon AMB: (Vacant) RSO: Kim T. Starke DCM: Michael E.C. Ely TRADE POL OFF: CHG: Johnnie Carson AGR: Roger F. Puterbaugh POL COUNS: Joanna W. Martin Christopher P. Marcich POL/ECO: Douglas R. Kramer (resident in Pretoria) ECO COUNS: Joel S. Spiro INDUST OFF: Alan R. Tousignant CON/COM: Ken McGhee AID: John P. Hummon PUB AFF COUNS: David M. Wilson LAB: Dan E. Turnquist LAB: John R. Dinger PAO: Betty Ann Felthousen AGR MIN COUNS: Edmund L. Nichols SCI/TECH AFF: Patricia A. Haigh (resident in Johannesburg) OMC: Maj Gary Walker MNL: Robert McSwain (resi- ODA: Ltc Richard L. Grauel USA ANTWERP (CG), Rubens Center, Nationalestraat 5, B-2000 Antwerp; (dent in Johannesburg) (resident in Harare) APO NY 09667-1040; Tel [32] (03) 225-0071; Telex 31966; FAX (3)234-3698 ADM: Frederick B. Cook CG: Sheldon I. Krebs CON: Lois A. Price BRAZIL POL: Alison Pentz BPAO: (Vacant) ECO/COM: Jerome B. Neal BRASILIA (E), Avenida das Nacoes, Lote 3; APO Miami 34030; Tel [55] (61) 321-7272; Telex 061-1091; FAX [55](61)225-9136 EUROPEAN LOGISTICAL SUPPORT OFFICE (ELSO Antwerp), AMB: Richard H. Melton Noorderlaan 147, Bus 12A, B-2030 Antwerp; APO New York 09667-1046; Tel RSO: Thomas C. Allsbury [32] (3) 542-4775; Telex 34964; FAX [32](3)542-6567 DCM: Robert E. Service SCI: Barbara J. Tobias POL: John F. Keane AGR: Robert J. Wicks DIR: Clifford W. Mecklenburg DEP DIR: James O. Mazingo ECO: Gordon Jones PAO: Robert F. Jordan FIN: Matthew P. Hennesey ODA: Bg Joseph S. Stringham USA SHAPE (POLAD) B-7010; SHAPE, Belgium; APO NY 09055; COM: Kevin C. Brennan MLO: Col Vibert L. Strock USAF Tel [32](65) 44-4471 or 4474 CON: Edwin L. Beffel AID: Howard B. Helman POLAD: Herbert D. Gelber ADM: Jeremy Nice NAU: John W. Corris, Jr. BELIZE RIO DE JANEIRO (CG), Avenida Presidente Wilson, 147; BELIZE CITY (E), Gabourel Lane and Hutson St.; P.O. Box 286; APO Miami 34030; Tel [55] (21) 292-7117; Telex AMCONSUL Tel [501] (2) 77161; FAX [501](2)30802 21-22831; USIS Telex 21-21466; FAX [55](21)220-0439 AMB: Robert G. Rich, Jr. ODA: Maj Randall R. Parish USA CG: Louis Schwartz, Jr. RES: Gilbert M. Johnson DCM: Joseph E. Hayes MLO: Maj Jerry R. Croghan USA POL: Daniel A. Strasser ADM: Manuel F. Acosta POL: Alexander Featherstone VOA: Frederick Haney ECO: Edward Olson AGR: Marcus E. Lower ECO/COM: Katherine Christensen AGR: John Jacobs COM: Walter Hage CON: Rudolph F. Boone BPAO: David Wagner (resident in Guatemala City) CON: Clyde Bishop FAA: ADM: Charles H. Grover Raymond Ybarra RSO: Jerry Wilson MLO: Cdr Guy W. Wicks RSO: AID: Craig P. Decampli Mosina Jordan (resident in Guatemala City) DAO: (Vacant) F-14 Foreign Service Post Information Spring 1990 S BRAZIL-CANADA SAO PAULO (CG), Rua Padre Joao Manoel, 933, 01411; P.O. Box 8063; CAMEROON APO Miami 34030; Tel [55] (11) 881-6511; Telex 11-31574; USIS Telex 21-21466; FAX 1)280-3517 YAOUNDE (E), Rue Nachtigal; B.P. 817; Tel [237] 234014; Telex 8223KN AMB: Frances D. Cook RSO: George Rodman, Jr. CG: Myles R. Frechette CON: Sandra L. Mendyk DCM: (Vacant) AGR: Thomas Pomeroy POL: Donald B. Harrington ADM: Edmund E. Atkins POL: Timothy Andrews (resident in Lagos) ECO: Ralph M. Buck AGR: Joseph F. Somers ECO/COM: Robert Godec AID: Jay P. Johnson COM: Arthur A. Alexander BPAO: C. Sigrid Maitrejean CON: Gerry W. Fuller PAO: Mary Roberta Jones LAB: James J. Ehrman IRS: Vincent Gambino ADM: Richard E. Kramer ODA: Ltc Steven A. Lovasz USA U.S. TRADE CENTER, Edificio Eloy Chaves Avenida Paulista, 2439, DOUALA (C), 21 Avenue du General De Gaulle; B.P. 4006; Sao Paulo; APO Miami 34030; Tel (11) 853-2011/2411/2778; Tel [237] 425331, 423434; Telex 5233KN; FAX [237]427790 Telex 011-25274 PO: William R. Gaines POL/ECO: Geeta Pasi DIR: Arthur A. Alexander AGR: Joseph F. Somers BPAO: Paul Patin PORTO ALEGRE (C), Rua Coronel Genuino, 421 (9th Fl.); APO CANADA Miami 34030; Tel [55] (512) 26-4288/4697; Telex 051-2292 CGEU BR PO: Marianne M. Kunkel BPAO: Merrie D. Blocker OTTAWA, ONTARIO (E), 100 Wellington St., K1P 5T1; P.O. Box 5000, CON: Bennett Y. Lowenthal Ogdensburg, NY 13669-0430; Tel (613) 238-5335; FAX (613)233-8511 RECIFE (C), Rua Goncalves Maia, 163; APO Miami 34030; AMB: Edward N. Ney SCI: Victor D. Comras Tel [55] (81) 221-1412; Telex 081-1190 DCM: Dwight N. Mason ADM: Eric J. Boswell PO: Leslie V. Rowe POL: Stephen W. Buck RSO: Steven Cox BPAO: Martin E. Adler CON: Richard G. Rosenman ECO: Lawrence P. Taylor AGR: Bryant H. Wadsworth COM: George Mu PAO: James P. Thurber BRUNEI LAB: Arlen R. Wilson CUS: William Laverty FIN: Carl Lohmann ODA: Col George Manolis USAF BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN (E), P.O. Box 2991; Tel [673] (2) 29670; CON: Leonard F. Willems IRS: Joe D. Hook Telex BU 2609 AMEMB; FAX [673] (2) 25293 CALGARY, ALBERTA (CG), Suite 1000, 615 Macleod Trail, S.E., Calgary, AMB: Christopher H. Phillips PAO: James Pollock Alberta, Canada T2G 4T8; Tel (403) 265-2116 or 266-8962; ECO/COM: James P. Wojtasiewicz (resident in Singapore) FAX (403)264-6630 CON/ADM: Dennis A. Droney ODA: Capt George W. Lundy, Jr. USN CG: Robert J. Kott COM: Thomas K. Roesch AGR: Geoffrey W. Wiggins (resident in Singapore) CON: Dennis W. Merz ECO: Patricia Foran (resident in Singapore) RSO: John Chernyak ADM: Ann M. Evans (resident in Kuala Lumpur) BULGARIA HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA (CG), Suite 910, Cogswell Tower, Scotia Sq., Halifax, NS, Canada B3J 3K1; Tel (902) 429-2480-1; FAX (902)423-6861 SOFIA (E), 1 A. Stamboliski Blvd.; APO NY 09213 : Tel [359] (2) CG: George C. Lannon CON: Barbara J. Baden 88-48-01 to 05; Telex 22690 BG AMB: Sol Polansky AGR: Steve Washenko MONTREAL, QUEBEC (CG), P.O. Box 65, Postal Station Desjardins, H5B DCM: William D. Montgomery (resident in Belgrade) 1G1; P.O. Box 847, Champlain, NY 12919-0847; Tel (514) 281-1886; POL/ECO: Douglas Ray Smith PRESS/CULT: John Menzies FAX (514)281-1072 ECO/COM: Michael Gelner ODA: Col John M. Handley USA CG: Andrew F. Antippas ADM: Melvin T. Spence CON: Jonathan J. Coyne IRS: Frederick Pablo ECO: John P. Riley BPAO: Veda Wilson ADM: Peter W. Bodde (resident in Rome) COM: Geoffrey Walser USTTA: Andree Logan RSO: Kevin W. Bauer CON: David L. Boerigter BURKINA FASO US MISSION TO THE INTERNATIONAL CIVIL AVIATION ORGANIZATION (ICAO), 1000 Sherbrooke, W. Rm. 753, Montreal; Mailing OUAGADOUGOU (E), B.P. 35; Tel [226] 30-67-23/24/25, 33-34-22 Telex AMEMB 5290 BF; USAID FAX [226]30-89-03 address: Box 847, Champlain, NY 12919; Tel (514) 285-8304 AMB: David H. Shinn LAB: Ollie P. Anderson, Jr. US REP: Edmund P.C. Stohr ALT FIC/JSC REP: David L. Schiele DCM: Robert M. Beecroft (resident in Washington) ALT US REP: John S. Jamison POL/ECO/COM: David C. Becker RSO: Anthony Richards ADM: Walter 1. Woolwine (resident in Niamey) QUEBEC, QUEBEC (CG), 2 Place Terrasse Dufferin, C.P. 939, G1R 4T9; AID: Herbert N. Miller ODA: Col Roby M. Mauk P.O. Box 1547 Champlain, NY 12919-1547; Tel (418) 692-2095; PAO: Cynthia B. Caples USA (resident in Abidjan) Telex 051-2275; FAX (418)692-4640 POL/MIL: Michael E. Dougherty CG: William C. McCahill, Jr. CON: Douglas M. Griffiths BURMA TORONTO, ONTARIO (CG), 360 University Ave., M5G 1S4; P.O. Box 135, RANGOON (E), 581 Merchant St. (GPO Box 521); Lewiston, NY 14092-0135; Tel (416) 595-1700; FAX (416)595-0051 AMEMBASSY, Box B, APO San Fran 96346; Tel 82055 or 82181; Telex 21230 AIDRGN BM CG: John E. Hall ADM: William N. Campbell ECO: Leonard A. Hill BPAO: John Quintus AMB: Burton Levin ADM: Leonard J. Porter COM: Dale V. Slaght USTTA: William Tolson DCM: Christopher J. Szymanski RSO: Michael T. Manegan CON: John R. Ratigan POL/ECO: Marshall P. Adair AID: Earl J. Young COM: Shirlie C. Pinkham PAO: William J. Weinhold VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA (CG), 1075 West Georgia St., V6E 4E9; CON: Shelley E. Johnson ODA: Col David G. Douglass USA P.O. Box 5002, Point Roberts, WA 98281-5002; Tel (604) 685-4311; FAX (604)685-5285 BURUNDI CG: Samuel C. Fromowitz CON: David P. Bocskor BUJUMBURA (E), B.P. 1720, Avenue des Etats-Unis; Tel 234-54 thru 56 ECO: Jack P. Orlando BPAO: David F. Fitzgerald COM: Stephen Wasylko USTTA: Eric Dixson AMB: Cynthia S. Perry RSO: Joseph Davison DCM: David 8. Dunn AID: Donald F. Miller ECO/POL/COM: Edwin P. Brown, Jr. PAO: Gary R. Nank ADM: Herbert R. Brown ODA: Col Robert Roman USAF CON: Emily E. Jeffers (resident in Kinshasa) Foreign Service Post Information F-15 Spring 1990 11/8/90 MEMORANDUM CONFIDENTIAL/STADIS TO: S/P - Dennis Ross ARA - Bernard Aronson FROM: S/P - Val MartinezVM SUBJECT: Speech for President Bush in South America I have looked at the draft themes submitted by the Desks for speeches by President Bush on his South American trip. They all look very good and provide some valuable detail. I remember, however, A/S Aronson observing some weeks ago that we needed to work on the more symbolic elements of the President's trip as well. I too think that this is very important. The Latins, I believe, will be expecting some words from the President on how we see the future of U.S. -Latin relations in the years ahead, a broader vision of how we view our shared hemisphere in these days of rapid international change. To this end I have drafted a brief speech for the President outlining how we see our hemispheric relations. Given the President's call for trade, not aid, and given the Latins' own willingness to forswear blaming us for all of their problems, I think we should have the President speak with clarity and frankness on what we offer to and what we expect from our southern neighbors. If such a speech is given, it should be given early in the visit, probably in Brazil. The attached draft reflects this. CONFIDENTIAL/STADIS DECLASSIFIED Department of State Guidelines E.O. 12958, SEC 3.4 (B), July 21, 1997 By It NARA, Date 06/05/23 DRAFT SPEECH PRESIDENT BUSH IN BRAZIL The Legacy of the New World Appropriate acknowledgments and thanks. I am again very happy to be in Latin America, specifically, in this great country of Brazil. I am always impressed by the great cultural diversity and sheer physical beauty of the region. The New World, I think, has indeed been very good to us. As we approach the 500th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of the Americas, it's a good moment to reflect on the legacy of this New World and our place in it. That legacy is richly diverse; after all, here I am addressing Portugese-speakers in English, all because of an Italian sailing for Spain at the end of the 15th century. We have now had half a millennium in this Hemisphere with which to form our nations, to find our way in the world. I will be the first to acknowledge that relations between the United States and its sister republics have not always been the best. Quarrels and misunderstandings have been all too frequent. I wish now to address you in complete frankness; the importance of our relations and our future merit it. 2 First and foremost, I firmly assert and sincerely believe that what we have in common far outstrips what we have let come between us in the past. All of us began as colonies, as dependencies of European princes and powers. But even as colonies one great principle was never far from the surface, one latent ideal could never be crushed -- that of the inviolable dignity of the individual and the absolute duty of the state to respect that dignity. Whether it was the courageous friar Las Casas arguing the rights of Indian peoples before the courts of Spain or our own Puritan forefathers seeking freedom of conscience, this ideal was always present. We cannot pretend that we have not stumbled in pursuit of this ideal, that it was often honored in the breach, if at all. After all, this hemisphere's two largest republics -- the United States and Brazil -- held human beings in chattel slavery until well past the middle of the last century. So let us be clear. I do not wish to romanticize our past or offer utopias for our future. I do, however, wish to emphasize that, despite our numerous false starts, this entire hemisphere has represented the ideal of liberty to countless generations. Further, just as individuals possess the God-given right of their dignity and their liberty, so do sovereign nations. This is what is meant by the rule of law, both within and among nations. This is the very principle that is being so sorely 3 tested now in the Gulf, but that idea will triumph because good men will see that it is not vanquished. But what does this principle mean in practice for our hemisphere? o It means that all the nations of the New World must foster the liberty of their citizens in the social, political and economic spheres. This is our joint and solemn duty if we mean what we say about the value of democracy. o It means that we must jointly -- and jealously -- guard our liberties and convince those few in our hemisphere that deny their citizens the most basic rights that change must come, that the dead hand of tyranny knows no home in the New World. o It means that relations among our nations should cease to be based on false or distorted images of one another; we must begin to see each other as we are -- free nations in a free hemisphere with much to offer each other. O It means that shared dangers -- the pestilence of narcotics trafficking, for example must lead to shared responsibilities in combatting them. o It means that we must allow our productive citizens to trade with one another in as free an arena as possible. 4 o It also means that shared economic opportunities must be exploited on an equitable basis. Again, let me be clear. We seek no advantage; nor do we offer miracle solutions to debt and poverty. We believe the sister republics of our hemisphere should instead cooperate with each other on the basis of shared principles and mutual respect. This was the spirit of my Enterprise for the Americas Initiative announced on this past June 27. The Initiative makes it clear that we believe we have an obligation to foster investment where investment is valued and protected; we believe we have an obligation to try and help on the serious debt question in the spirit of equity and responsibility; we believe we have an obligation to promote the most liberal trade regime possible. I cannot emphasize enough the seriousness with which we hold these ideas. I see the Enterprise for the Americas Initiative as but the first step toward an end to the First World/Third World dichotomy that has too often distorted our political and economic relations. Let us instead speak of the New World; let us look for common values, not transitory disputes. Our cultures are all vibrant and astounding in their endless creativity and depth. We do not wish to "Americanize" the hemisphere. Such folly has no attraction, no logic. We do want to enter a new era of relations among nations in the New World. We have all watched the Old World undergo a whirlwind change; all of us need to change as well. We offer the hand of friendship and trade; we expect only the same in return. I have met with many Latin and Caribbean leaders. I think all of us have been struggling for a way to express what we see as a new, more mature, relationship among Latin America, the Caribbean and the United States. Our wide range of recent talks with our hemispheric neighbors on everything from free trade to the environment to tariffs reflect this sense of possibility of a new dawn in the New World. Friends, the Cold War, the East-West struggle, is nearing an end. I submit that, in this hemisphere, we should also end the rhetorical war between North and South. This New World has no cause to stand divided. There is no reason why the promise of mutual benefit cannot overcome the poison of needless recrimination. Yes, too many North Americans in the past assumed Latin America was but an adjunct of the U.S. colossus, a ready ally in the larger struggle with the totalitarian East. Yes, too many Latins in the past assumed that North American actions and interests were always wrong and deserving blanket condemnation. 6 But we here know better. For our part, we know that there can be no community of democratic nations in this hemisphere without the respect one such nation owes another. You know you have our respect, honestly held and sincerely expressed. For your part, I believe that Latin America knows that the United States seeks neither fear nor favor. How, then, do we express this sense of possibility, this birth of a new era in our relationship? We do so by seeking the common heritage. Above all, the New World has been the land of frontiers. All of us are frontier nations. Most historians in the United States claim that our frontier "died" around the turn of the century as our Western plains were settled. This is true in one sense, but I would argue that all of us remain frontier nations. The horizon still holds great promise, the lure of timeless ideas and immutable principles. We in the United States are genuinely excited as we view today's leaders in Latin America putting such ideas into practice, breaking down barriers that have held back the real strength and vibrancy of talented and industrious peoples. Richard Weaver, a fine American essayist, once wrote a little book with the title "Ideas Have Consequences." We are already seeing the consequences of a revolution of mind as well as policy. The countries I plan to visit in the days ahead are all led by men of keen and far-reaching vision. They know, as do I, that bad ideas lead to dismal results, that to collectivize the will of the nation can only lead to the enslavement of its citizens. This experiment has failed, and we have all witnessed its death throes over the last year. I therefore propose that the United States, Latin America and the Caribbean embark on the joint project of making this New World the first entirely free hemisphere -- free men within nations and free commerce among them. Let us strive to meet the 500th anniversary of the discovery of this fruitful land with the full flowering of its rightful legacy -- the resurgent and revivified idea of individual liberty. As I said on June 27 in announcing the Enterprise for the Americas Initiative: "Our challenge, the challenge of this new era of the Americas is to secure this shared dream and all of its fruits for all the people of the Americas -- North, Central, and South. 8 Let us now strive to meet that challenge. Let us now speak of the New World instead of First and Third Worlds. Let us drop the hoary rhetoric of dependency theory and the stifling weight of protectionism. Let us respect the social, cultural and religious values of our respective societies. Let us always deal with one another on a basis of the respect one free republic owes to another. It is only in this way can we solve the many problems that remain: debt, trade, investment, poverty, drugs, regional arms control, the environment, nuclear non-proliferation. To those in this hemisphere still resisting the tide of freedom, especially Mr. Castro, we will welcome you to the party of liberty the moment in which you break the chains of your own long-suffering population. If you do not fear the heady sensation of freedom then you need not fear us. If you do not fear testing the will of your own people, then you need not fear us. If you do not fear the spark of independence and dignity that even the cruelest dictator cannot extinguish, then you need not fear us. 9 I note that Mr. Castro is again rumbling about "socialism or death. He implies a threat from the United States. But this death threat does not come from us, it comes from the very system that Castro has imposed on Cuba, for the deadly totalitarianism of this system fosters the death of the soul, the crushing of the citizen's individuality in the name of the state. This is what we have always opposed and, again speaking frankly, this is what all of us should oppose. As I noted as I began this brief talk, we will soon celebrate the 500th anniversary of the discovery of the Americas. This celebration will also launch us toward the 21st century, a frontier of promise and hope. You have heard how we propose to enter that new century with our close and valued friends of the New World. We ask all of you to join us in ensuring that that new era be one of untrammeled freedom and mutual prosperity. Thank you very much. EMBARGOED FOR RELEASE AT 9:15 P.M. EST NN9,90 OFFICE OF THE UNITED STATES TRADE REPRESENTATIVE EXECUTIVE OFFICE OF THE PRESIDENT WASHINGTON 20506 THE DECADE OF THE AMERICAS Person of the Year Award Acceptance Remarks By United States Trade Representative Carla A. Hills Brazilian-American Chamber of Commerce New York city October 25, 1990 Introduction I am honored to be named "Person of the Year" by the Brazilian-American Chamber of Commerce along with the distinguished Sergio Coimbra. The splendid reputation of the Chamber and eminence of the previous recipients make this award one especially to be cherished. I am also grateful to have this opportunity to address this extraordinary gathering of leading citizens from both Brazil and the United States. As the two largest countries in the Americas -- with nearly 400 million people -- it is exhilarating to think that together we could make the 1990s the Decade of the Americas. By joining together in a positive partnership for prosperity, we could build upon the dramatic economic reforms that President Fernando Collor has undertaken this year. In just seven months since taking office he has driven down inflation, begun to remove the government from the private sector, and started to open the economy to greater competition. President Collor's success comes from his strongly held belief in freedom and his deeply rooted vision of the future for Brazil and Latin America. In a speech last month to Yale University, my alma mater, President Collor made clear what he was after: "We know exactly what we want. We want to have a fair share in the benefits of mankind's progress. We want to join those. in the forefront of our era. We want our peoples to have access to the best there is in well-being, security, education, and information. In short, we want our people to be able to fulfill their legitimate aspirations for happiness." In this great quest for prosperity, Brazil, and indeed all of Latin America, are beginning to look outward. Recognizing the extraordinary changes underway, this past June, President Bush BRAZILIAN-AMERICAN CHAMBER/PAGE 2 announced his Enterprise for the Americas Initiative, one of the most exciting ideas of our time. His vision is to create a hemispheric free trade zone. The Uruguay Round We will far be more able to realize the promise of his Initiative for this hemisphere if we can successfully conclude the Uruguay Round of global trade talks this December and open markets worldwide. The Uruguay Round -- so named because it was launched in Uruguay in 1986 -- is seeking to strengthen and broaden the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, or GATT. The GATT is without doubt the world's most important trade agreement -- indeed, it is the Constitution of World Trade. The GATT started out small after World War II with just a handful of nations looking for a way to spur economic growth. It succeeded beyond all expectations. Under GATT sponsorship, the world's trading nations have held seven successful rounds of negotiations in which they slashed tariff rates by more than 75 percent. As a result, trade exploded from just $60 billion in 1950 to nudge the $4 trillion mark this year. This enormous expansion in global commerce has fueled a spectacular surge of the world economy which has grown faster in the last 40 years than in any four decades of world history. Those nations whose opened their markets have enjoyed unparalleled prosperity. The GATT opened new markets for business, increased choices and lowered prices for consumers, and led to higher incomes and more jobs for workers. But just as a thriving family outgrows its first house, so too has the family of 100 nations that now make up the GATT and account for 85 percent of world trade outgrown the rules that served us so well for SO long. Today, a third of world trade -- more than $1 trillion a year -- is not adequately covered by internationally agreed rules of fair play. Areas inadequately covered by GATT rules, like agriculture, or not covered at all like services, investment, and intellectual property have taken on an enormous importance in global trade. That is why four years ago, the nations of the world launched the Uruguay Round, so that they could negotiate new GATT rules and amend old ones. BRAZILIAN-AMERICAN CHAMBER/PAGE 3 As we head into the final 39 days of those negotiations, here is what the Uruguay Round could mean for Brazil and the United States: Reducing tariff and non-tariff barriers by one-third could cause global output to grow by an extra $4 trillion over the next 10 years. And the Americas' share would be over $1 trillion. Developing comprehensive rules of fair play for the new areas of services, investment, and intellectual property would spur economic growth and facilitate the transfer of technology. Reining in the hundreds of billions of dollars of subsidies would result in fairer competition and expanded trade. Bringing the developing world, which accounts for nearly $500 billion in annual sales, fully into the global trading system would spread the benefits of that system to the nations most in need. Creating a swift and effective means to resolve trade disputes would increase international cooperation. Finally, achieving fundamental reform of agriculture would allow farmers worldwide to grow what they want, sell where they want, and prosper without government interference. These trade talks are not abstract discussions of arcane principles. As President Collor also said at Yale: "Economic change is a requirement for modernization. The engine of growth is fueled by free enterprise, unencumbered trade, increased efficiency and scientific and technological capability." Brazil's Position in the Round The United States and Brazil have been partners in working to achieve a good agreement in the Uruguay Round with respect to agriculture. We need to extend our partnership to other areas as well, including the balance of payments provision, trade-related investment measures, and intellectual property. When developing countries are experiencing real balance of payments difficulties, the United States agrees that they should be permitted temporarily to restrict imports that are injuring domestic industries. Brazil should work with us to develop clear international rules governing when and under what circumstances such restrictions can be used. BRAZILIAN-AMERICAN CHAMBER/PAGE 4 A country that permits open investment fosters economic growth; those that don't, stifle it. Again Brazil should work with us to develop clear international rules to prohibit governments from unduly interfering with investment -- that is the road by which Brazil can become a world-class competitor. Finally, a country that protects inventions and creative ideas encourages their development at home and attracts valuable technology from abroad. Thus, Brazil should work with us to develop international rules that protect patents, trademarks, and copyrights. We are working hard in the Uruguay Round negotiations to forge agreements in these areas. Little time is left and much remains to be done. Quite frankly, President Collor's policies in support of open markets and economic growth in Brasilia are not getting translated into action in Geneva. Poor translation puts at risk all that his administration is trying so courageously to accomplish. Conclusion Both President Bush and President Collor have said that the success of the Uruguay Round is a key to future hemispheric and global prosperity. President Bush said in speaking to the IMF/World Bank meeting just last month: "The Round is not just a trade issue, it is a growth issue. It can be the engine of economic growth that carries us into the 21st century." Our exciting new partnership for prosperity can help fuel that engine. Informed groups like the Brazilian-American Chamber of Commerce can strengthen this partnership by educating the public, politicians, and press in both of our countries about what is at stake in this Round. Make clear to them that your new markets, new sales, and new profits gained through a successful Round will mean new jobs, increased revenues, dollars in their pockets, and a better standard of living for everyone. Years of substantial economic growth are just within our grasp. The Uruguay Round presents us with the extraordinary moment in history to recharge global economic growth, propel Brazil to prosperity, and launch the Decade of the Americas. Thank you again for this award. # # # FROM USIS BRASILIA 11.23.1990 8:58 P. 2 from Luzia 1 Cultural Affaire section us Embassy grasilia Quotes from Brazilians 1) "A liberdade, para nós, corresponde a uma série de conquistas sociais e políticas." (Juscelino Kubitschek) (Liberty to US means a series of social and political conquests 2) "Deste planalto central, desta solidão que em breve 8 e transformará em cérebro das altas decisões nacionais lanço 08 olhos mais uma vez sobre o amanhã do meu país e antevejo esta alvorada com f é inquebrantável e uma confiança sem limites no seu grande destino." Juscelino Kubitschek) P-9 (From this central plateau, from this solitude that will soon become of the center of high national decisions, I look once again at the future of my country and see this dawn with unyielding faith and 11-26-90 unlimited confidence in its great destiny.) drattoint, session 3) "Considero uma dádiva de Deus ter a oportunidade de construir Brasília.' (Juscelino Kubitschek) (To have the opportunity to build Brasilia 1s a gift of God.) 4) "Liberdade. As democracias que atentam contra a tua majestade Barbosa) perecerão na tirania dos Césares ou na anarquia das ruas." (Ru1 (Liberty. The democracies that offend your majesty will perish under the tyrany of the Caesers or the anarchy of the streets.) 5) "Toda a civilização se encerra na liberdade, toda a liberdade na segurança dos direitos individuais.' (Rui Barbosa) rights.) (Civilization embodies liberty, all liberty in assuring individual 6) "Em Política, é a mesma coisa que em Religião: 0 essencial não está na profissão do credo, mas na prática das obras." (Rui Barbosa) (In Politics, it 18 the same as in Religion: the essential 18 not in the profession of creed but in actual work.) FROM USIS BRASILIA 11.23.1990 8:58 P. 3 7) Os povos podem o que querem. Uma raça, uma nacionalidade, ou um povo só não é capaz do que não saiba querer." (Rui Barbosa) (The people have the power to do what they want. A race, a nationality, or a people will not be able to do only what they do not know to desire.) 8) " O povo vive de persuasão e esperança, de benignidade e trabalho." (Ru1 Barbosa) (People live on persuasion and hope, on kindness and work.) 9) "Um povo que não tem quem lhe fale, perde o hábito de ouvir." ( Rui Barbosa) (People listening.) who do not have someone to listen to, lose the habit of 10) "Não falsifica a história somente quem inverte a verdade, senão também quem a omite." (Rui Barbosa) also he who omits it.) (It is not only he who distorts the truth that falsifies history but 11) "Política é a arte de assegurar o êxito do bem." (San Tiago Dantas, politician, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 1911/1964) (Politics is the art of assuring the success of virtue.) 12) "Não basta viver para ser livre e responsável. E preciso sofrer writer, journalist, 1893/1983) o peso das opções e a dificuldade das escolhas.' (Tristão de Atayde, (To be free and responsible, it is not enough to live. It 18 the choices.) necessary to suffer the weight of the options and the difficulty of FROM USIS BRASILIA 11.23.1990 8:59 P. 4 Bree qah do (Thank you) 3 Obrigado Quotes by President Juscelino Kubitschek (On wall of the Congress entrance hall (Salão Negro) "Este ato representa o passo mais viril, mais energético, que a Nação dá, após a sua independencia política, para a sua plena afirmação como povo que tomou a seus ombros uma das mais extraordinárias tarefas que a História contemporânea viu atribuir-se a uma coletividade: a de povoar e civilizar as terras que conquistou, vistas como um continente; a de integrar, na comunhão dos povos, para o bem comum da humanidade, um dos mais ricos territórios do mundo." (This act represents the most vigorous, the most energetic step that the Nation has taken, after its political independence, towards its full affirmation as a people who has taken on its shoulders one of the most extraordinary tasks that contemporary history has seen bestowed upon a community: the task to inhabit and civilize the lands that it has conquered, seen as a continent; to integrate, in the peoples' community, for the well-being of mankind, one of the world's richest terrritories.) "E congratulo-me com 0 Congresso Nacional que, com alto discernimento e patriotismo, soube auscultar 08 sentimentos desta Nação, soube acolher seus históricos anseios, soube, mais uma vez, mostrar-se fiel cumpridor da soberana vontade do povo brasileiro. (And I congratulate the National Congress which, with high discerniment and patriotism, knew how to sound out the sentiments of this country, knew how to answer its historical yearnings, knew, once again, how to reveal itself as a faithful fulfiller of the sovereign wish of the Brazilian people.) (Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek discurso ao sancionar a lei que fixou a data de mudança da capital Palácio do Catete 10/10/57). (President Juscelino Kubitschek speech made when he signed the law that established the date for the move of the Capital Catete Palace 10/01/57.) Secretary Baker Current Policy The OAS: Realizing No. 1224 a Vision of Democracy United States Department of State Bureau of Public Affairs Washington, D.C. Following is the prepared address by These images compose a portrait of hope of ending more than a decade of Secretary Baker before the 19th General our time. We have witnessed the idea civil war. In Haiti, a calendar for new Assembly of the Organization of Ameri- of democracy prevailing in our lifetime. elections has been announced, and the can States (OAS), Washington, D.C., Today, we see unfolding a worldwide Avril government has made a welcome November 13, 1989. revolution of hope and courage, pro- commitment to safeguard the security pelled by the aspiration of ordinary of the electoral process. In this chamber today, there are no people for freedom and a better life. It is a measure of the distance this lesser or greater nations. We meet here hemisphere has traveled in one decade as equals-in respect, and in partner- ship-as members of the Organization Leading the Way that it almost seems an afterthought to of American States. in a Democratic Revolution note that democratic transfers of power are also underway in Brazil, in Uru- We also welcome to our ranks our It is fitting to note these historic devel- guay, in Colombia, in Honduras, in newest member, a proud democracy, our opments here in the Organization of Guatemala, in Costa Rica, and in the neighbor-Canada-represented by my American States. For this hemisphere Dominican Republic. colleague and friend, Foreign Minister is no mere participant in that demo- Joe Clark, and the Canadian delegation. cratic revolution: it is helping to lead We in the U.S. delegation look forward A Powerful Economic Revolution the way. to working together with you and to Look around this General Assembly Side by side with this democratic politi- benefiting from your wise counsel in the and tally freedom's march: The people cal revolution is an economic revolution vital work of the OAS. of Paraguay now live under a govern- every bit as powerful and potentially as We meet at a time of historic change ment elected in a competitive election far reaching. Mexico has joined the that is transforming the politics of our for the first time in more than 40 years. GATT [General Agreement on Tariffs planet almost more rapidly than we can This past year, power transferred and Trade], and Costa Rica is in the fi- absorb it. Yet when the history of our peacefully, democratically from one po- nal stages of accession. Both have con- era is recorded, I believe certain images litical party to its rival in Argentina, for cluded successful debt negotiations. will long endure: a citizen of Berlin the first time in 61 years; in Bolivia, Venezuela is poised to follow. Brazil is atop the Berlin Wall with a hammer for the first time in 20 years; and in El manufacturing communications satel- and chisel, chipping the wall away; in Salvador, for the first time in its lites. Chile is trading with-the Pacific the Philippines a human wave of peace- history. rim. ful protestors facing down an army of Chile is well on its way to returning From Kingston to Caracas, Buenos tanks; and the endless lines of campesi- to the democratic community, marrying Aires to Montevideo, a new generation nos in El Salvador, standing hour after its economic miracle with a hopeful, of democratic leaders is stripping away hour in the mid-day sun, braving bul- new national consensus for political di- the layers of state control and special lets and rocket grenades to vote in a versity. Elections are underway in preference that shackled this hemi- free election. Nicaragua with OAS monitoring. If sphere's productive powers for decades. they are free and fair, they hold out They are opening up their economies with CARICOM [Caribbean Commu- such a volume were to be written today instead to the creative energies of their nity] and the Government of Haiti, about this hemisphere, I have no doubt own people and to new trade and invest- there is a role to play in that long- that heading the list of profiles in cour- ment in the global marketplace. suffering nation's scheduled elections, age would be President Virgilio Barco None of us can forget the deep eco- too. In 1987, the democratic community and those who serve with him in the nomic and social crisis that afflicts SO stood helpless as voters in Haiti were Government of Colombia. many of this hemisphere's people or the gunned down in polling booths; surely The OAS is also playing a construc- strains on fragile new democracies from we cannot permit that nightmare to tive role in resolving the conflicts in debt-ridden economies. But neither can return. Central America where democratization we deny that those nations that have When the will of the people is is the key to lasting peace. Let me say a gone the furthest in creating free and trampled, as it was SO visibly and vi- word about Central America before I open markets hold out the greatest hope ciously in Panama, the OAS must de- close. of easing those debt burdens and reviv- nounce such abuses with courage and ing economic growth. candor. The democratic community The changes transforming our hemi- must isolate those who are responsible. Violence in El Salvador and Nicaragua sphere did not arise from textbooks or If the charter of this organization is to In 1981, the Marxist guerrillas of the theories, but from the hopes of ordinary be fulfilled, multilateralism must not FMLN [Farabundo Marti National Lib- citizens. The housewives and peasants, become a synonym for the lowest com- eration Front] launched their so-called shopkeepers, and students who endured mon denominator, and the principle of final offensive, but the people of El Sal- dictatorships of right and left, who suf- nonintervention cannot become an ex- vador refused to heed their call. This fered through a decade of lost growth, cuse for looking the other way. past weekend, in a spasm of violence, and who tasted the terrible violence of Nothing would please my govern- the FMLN called for a "mass insurrec- both ideological extremes learned a les- ment more than the opportunity to nor- tion," but the people of El Salvador said son that neither colonels nor comandan- malize relations with a democratic Pan- no. As usual, when the FMLN attacks, tes can long deny: only elections confer ama, see the escrowed fees flow to a the victims were ordinary citizens, legitimacy; only pluralism delivers prog- constitutional government, and see the many among the poorest Salvadorans. ress; only democracy promises peace. joint implementation of the Panama The attacks by FMLN guerrillas on This Organization of American Canal Treaties. But there is a dictator, private homes and citizens were acts of States, and all who hold a position of and his name is [Gen. Manuel Antonio] terror pure and simple. So, too, was the elected leadership in this hemisphere, Noriega. The United States will never bombing the week before of an opposi- are the custodians of those hopes. The accommodate with the outlaw regime tion trade union headquarters. In Nica- OAS must be democracy's defender. that fronts for him in Panama. After ragua, the vast majority of ordinary the devastating report just issued by people simply want to vote in a free Inter-American Commission the Inter-American Human Rights election. Yet, there the government has on Human Rights Commission, we trust that no other self- suspended the cease-fire, threatening respecting democracy will do SO either. renewed violence and war. Where human rights are embattled, the The time has come to end the con- Organization of American States must Drug Trafficking flicts in Central America. The men, defend them-whether they are threat- women, and children of this war-torn ened by guerrillas or governments. The Together, we must defend democracy region have suffered and bled too long. Inter-American Commission on Human against the new slayers of the demo- Central America yearns for democracy Rights represents the OAS at its finest, cratic dream-the narcotraffickers and and peace. The international commu- as its special report on Panama attests. drug cartels who poison our children, nity must mobilize its will to help them We must support and strengthen its murder public servants, and make war achieve it. work. on civil society. Democracy in this A framework for a lasting settle- This is the commission's 30th anni- hemisphere has never faced a more ment in Central America already versary. We will never know how many highly organized, better-financed, or exists-in Esquipulas, Tesoro Beach, citizens of the Americas were freed from more ruthless enemy. We cannot defeat and Tela. Our challenge is to translate prison or spared from the torturer's lash this enemy unless we are united. Here the promises in those agreements into a because of the work of this proud insti- in the OAS, and in other forums, we permanent reality. tution. But on their behalf, I would like must pioneer new and effective means The Soviet Union bears a special to salute the members and staff of the to track and arrest drug traffickers, ex- responsibility because its arms and Inter-American Human Rights Commis- tradite fugitives, stop the laundering of money, moving through Cuba and Nica- sion and all of those who have served drug money, curtail the flow of precur- ragua, continue to support violence, de- the commission so ably, so honorably, sor chemicals, and control the traffic in struction, and war. Shipments of Soviet and so effectively for these past two dangerous arms. rocket-propelled grenades to the FMLN decades. I think no one will be surprised if I are incompatible with the new thinking. Where elections are in question, the single out one member state, Colombia, Soviet behavior toward Cuba and OAS can help guarantee the integrity of for special mention. Three decades ago Central America remains the biggest the process so that the will of the people a young Senator, later President, obstacle to a full, across-the-board im- will not be denied. As I noted already, named John F. Kennedy published a provement in relations between the the OAS is helping monitor the elec- book called Profiles in Courage. It told United States and the Soviet Union. tions in Nicaragua. Perhaps, working the story of some of my nation's bravest and most selfless public servants. If 2 In Nicaragua, elections must go for- In El Salvador, the time has come I believe, as President Bush de- ward free of fear, manipulation, or spe- for the FMLN to return to the negotiat- clared in San Jose, we have it in our cial advantage to those who control the ing table where both sides should bar- power to create, here in the Americas, power of the state. We have seen some gain in good faith. Every individual the world's first completely democratic signs of progress in the concessions ar- and group in El Salvador has the right hemisphere-a hemisphere, as the rived at before Tela and in the registra- to participate in the democratic process Charter of the OAS envisions, where tion process. But we also have seen free of fear; none has the right to im- human rights are respected and the some dark and dangerous signs: the re- pose its will on the people through vio- rule of law prevails, where all nations appearance of mobs assaulting peaceful lence or repression. live in peace and none lives in fear of opposition rallies; unlimited use of state aggression. resources and television for the ruling party's candidate; and now a militarized Becoming a Global Model for Peace The ideal of a democratic Europe blossomed into the vision of EC [Euro- election atmosphere. At the heart of the Central American pean Community] 1992. I believe as If the elections are to have legiti- peace process is a vision of national rec- well that this democratic hemisphere macy, they must be conducted in an at- onciliation in the nations of the region we are building can become the model mosphere free of violence. We hope the where war has raged. Can those who for the rest of the planet of a true part- cease-fire will be reinstated, violations have fought and died for more than a nership between the developed and the will cease on both sides, and the process decade in Nicaragua and El Salvador developing nations-where trade is free, of dialogue between the government overcome the hatreds of the past and prosperity is shared, and the benefits of and the Nicaraguan Resistance will summon the will to compete-not with technology are harnessed for all. To proceed. the weapons of war-but with the weap- those doubters and skeptics who would If the Government of Nicaragua ons of democracy? Can Central Amer- call this an impossible dream and coun- truly wants the peasants of the Nicara- ica achieve a triumph of hope over fear? sel statesmen to set their sights on guan Resistance to return voluntarily, The international community must mo- more pragmatic goals, I would answer: it, and it alone, has the power to con- bilize every resource to realize that Do not lecture us about impossible vince them: by stopping summary exe- vision because we have urgent work to dreams. This is the week the Berlin cutions, freeing political prisoners, and attend to in this hemisphere, and the Wall came down. agreeing to an independent mechanism people of Central America have waited to guarantee their freedom and secu- for peace too long. Published by the United States Department rity. As conditions warrant confidence, In 1990, the inter-American system of State Bureau of Public Affairs Office we would encourage the Resistance to begins its second centennial. Three of Public Communication Editorial Division test them. years from now, we celebrate the 500th Washington, D.C. November 1989 Editor: Sharon R. Haynes This material is anniversary of the discovery of the new in the public domain and may be reprinted world; just 8 years later, we enter the without permission; citation of this source is 21st century. What kind of hemisphere appreciated. can we envision? What will be the agenda of the OAS? good point for when imap one insime of the first free hemisphere 3 PA/OAP, Rm. 5815A United States Department of State BULK RATE Washington, D.C. 20520-6810 POSTAGE & FEES PAID U.S. Department of State Permit No. G-130 OFFICIAL BUSINESS PENALTY FOR PRIVATE USE $300 Address Correction Requested BRAZIL 153 the Brazilian cultural continuum includes the polar opposites of the soci- etal spectrum, as well as every variation in between. The struggle between development and conservation, progress and pres- ervation of the past, national pride and openness to the contributions of other countries, is played out here in plain view. The clash of opposites is manifested in almost every phase of life. The Pantanal and the Amazon, acknowledged universally as great natural storehouses of flora and fauna, must contend with the mining and agricultural interests that would de- plete or destroy these very resources. Brazilians decry the cultural imperi- alism of the United States and the power of the International Monetary Fund, yet they listen to American music almost more avidly than to their own and English terms pepper their Portuguese as symbols of imported ideas. Women are beginning to move into the work force and find their own identity outside of traditional roles, yet men are still strongly macho. Accompanying these modern dilemmas is the romance of the pioneer: Brazil still has a sense of its own frontier because the largely undeveloped interior still is a frontier, a kind of continental Alaska within everyone's reach. A new wave of Gold Rush fever has struck, sending thousands of prospectors into the jungle to gamble on striking it rich. Undiscovered In- dian tribes and unexplored territory exist to a degree now unimaginable in the United States or Europe. At the social level, destitute urban slums called "favelas" grow up right next to the most luxurious mansions. Wealthy socialites and movie stars rub elbows with their maids and workers during lavish Carnival parades where everyone participates equally in the magic. Yet, in practical terms, BRAZIL the great divide between rich and poor remains as unbridgeable as ever and Brazil continues to be a nation with very few "haves" and countless "have nots." Colossus of the Continent These extremes are perhaps the only constants in a nation of coexisting inconsistencies. Regional differences remain profound, providing a set of internal subcultures that with time will no doubt be lost to interstate high- By ways, shopping malls, chain restaurants, and national media. The forces JOANNA BERKMAN and EDWIN TAYLOR of modernization are hard at work in Brazil, but they must resist the pow- erful pull of the past and so haven't progressed as far as they have else- where. The distinctions and distinctiveness of Brazil still endure. Joanna Berkman, a Boston-based freelance writer, has been a reporter for the Boston Herald, a social science researcher for Abt Associates in Cam- A Glance at Brazil's History bridge, and has taught in the Expository Writing Program at Harvard. She Brazil was discovered in 1500, just eight years after America. How Co- studied Portuguese language and culture at the University of Lisbon and lumbus missed this giant of the Western Hemisphere and touched down has lived in and written about Brazil. upon little San Salvador remains one of the mysteries of that era. Spain was badly in need of new territories and when they put all their money Edwin Taylor is an American journalist with ten years of experience writing on Columbus they made a mistake, for Portugal was also in need and on Brazil. A resident of Rio de Janeiro, Taylor is the editor and publisher backed a sea captain named Pedro Alvares Cabral. The Portuguese king of Brasilinform, an English-language information service on Brazil which was in a landgrab race for the new colonies with the Spanish rulers, and publishes newsletters. He is also editor of Brazil Travel Update, the only both of them wanted as much as they could get in the shortest amount English-language newsletter on the Brazilian travel trade. of time. There were great things coming out of India that could be sold to fill the royal coffers, later to be converted into ships and arms and man- Brazil is so big and covers so many square miles through all sorts of power to dash across the seas again and grab more land. terrain that it is impossible to make generalizations about what is "typical- When Cabral sighted Brazil he thought that he was seeing India, but ly" Brazilian. From the pine forests and frosts of the south to the steamy upon landing and finding none of the expected Maharajas or a road clearly cities along the Equator, Brazil is a study in extremes and contrasts. marked "Cathay," he reasoned that he had discovered someplace new. Because of its peculiar combination of wealth and industrial might in He thought it was an island and sent out a search party to walk around the south, Third World poverty and hunger in the northeast, urban wealth once and come back again. What Cabral had stumbled upon was, of and sophistication in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, wildlife preserves in course, not an island, but the biggest hunk of land to be claimed in the the Pantanal, and aboriginal tribes in the Amazon territories and interior, entire New World. 152 154 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 155 The Tupi natives were friendly, much to everyone's surprise and plea- Alegre. Everything to the west belonged to Spain, everything to the east sure; and after celebrating Mass, Cabral left a few men to watch his new to Portugal. country and then hurried back to Portugal. Fortunately for modern Brazil the Bandeirantes knew nothing of this The Portuguese referred to the new colony as "The Island of Santa treaty, didn't care, or didn't have a compass. For they spread out over Cruz" (Holy Cross); later when their error was discovered they called the thousands of miles, planting their banner on the banks of the Amazon to new colony "Land of Santa Cruz." But with the coming of merchant ships the north, Paraná to the south, and on the Paraguayan and Bolivian fron- from the mother country and the vast exporting of a hard wood called tiers to the west. Spaniards, so busy with wars with the Indians, hadn't "brazil," the people of Portugal began to refer to the place as "The Land any idea what was going on in the heart of their lands. When they finally of Brazil." From there it was an easy step to calling it simply Brazil. woke up it was too late, for the Bandeirantes had claimed it all for Portu- The Portuguese were interested in trade, and the long coastal lands of gal. their new-found colony were richer agriculturally than anything the Span- Brazil was ruled from afar by Portugal for many years. When Napoleon ish had been able to claim. captured Portugal, the royal family fled to the new colony. It was like a Farmers arrived from Portugal to set up huge sugar and spice farms. shot in the arm for the New World. At once the exiled royal family opened They plowed from the present-day city of Olinda down almost to Rio. The the ports of Brazil to trade with some European nations, especially with land was rich, the nights cool, and there was lots of elbow room. But work- Napoleon's enemy, England. When the French were defeated, the king, ers were scarce, and imitating their Spanish enemies, they set out to en- Dom Joao VI, went back to Portugal and left his young son Pedro I to slave the local Indians. govern. But Pedro had ideas of his own and did away with a number of The natives-there were many different tribes which were being lumped reforms his father had set up. He proclaimed Brazil's independence on together under the heading "Indian"-were not accustomed to toiling Sept. 7, 1822. As a new nation, Brazil had a long way to go and a lot to long, hot afternoons in cane or cotton fields and died off rapidly. Some learn. So unsure was the nation and so ineptly governed, that after a series escaped enslavement by fleeing deeper into the jungle. Later, slaves from of costly wars with Argentina and Uruguay, Dom Pedro I stepped aside the bulge of west Africa were brought in. Swooping down along the Guin- in favor of his son Pedro II, who was only five years old. A series of regents ea coast and as far south as Angola, Portuguese slave traders attacked vil- then came into power that managed so badly parliament finally decreed lages, killed off the weak, and shackled the strong. The trip to Brazil was Dom Pedro II "of age" when he was just 14. long and rough and many died on the way, but those that managed to Then came almost a half century of peaceful and fruitful ruling on the survive the voyage were brave, hardy, and resourceful. part of the Western Hemisphere's only Emperor (if you don't count the Soon great wealth was flowing to Lisbon, and the Royal coffers were short reign of Maximilian in Mexico), who mingled with his subjects, expanding from the raw materials the Portuguese traded with the rest of made a trip to the United States, and declared that he would rather have Europe. So envious were the other land-hungry nations of the era that the been a school teacher than an emperor. Under his constant vigilance the Dutch, French, and Spanish all tried to encroach on Portugal's claim. nation prospered, trade agreements were signed, an attempt by Argentina Much of her new wealth was spent in keeping the intruders at bay. to take control was put down. Princesa Isabel freed the slaves on May 13, While riches were being reaped from the soil in the northeast, other rich- 1888 by signing the "Lei Auréa," Brazil's Emancipation Proclamation. es were being dug up in the mountains to the south. No sooner had the But a democratic movement was brewing in the military, and in spite of present site of Rio de Janeiro been put on the map than thousands of for- progress and prosperity the army took over and banished Pedro and his tune hunters poured through it on the way to the mines of Minas Gerais. royal family back to Portugal. On November 15, 1889, the Republic was Here were what seemed like entire mountains of amethysts, aquamarines, born. and diamonds waiting to be scooped up. A procession of miners and trou- Thereafter Brazilian history grows dull with the parade of easily forget- ble-makers took over an area many times bigger than Alaska. Wealth table presidents and minor revolutionaries. There were all sorts of prob- made them remember how the nobility had lived back home, and as soon lems that needed to be solved, and very few able men around to solve them. as a miner had enough to live, he wanted to live well. By the boat loads Brazil stuck mostly to what the U.S. was doing politically, while staying from Portugal came carpenters, stonemasons, sculptors, and painters to close to France for its cultural instruction. Politicians made a number of build churches, palaces, and cities in the Brazilian wilderness. Up went efforts to gain power at the expense of the nation but the proud giant, in such architectural treasures as Ouro Petro and Diamantina. There were spite of them, kept growing. gas lights and golden horse-drawn coaches in the streets and gem-studded, Brazil has had very few actual internal wars and has never had a real, silver ornaments in the churches. Lace came from Europe to adorn mi- bloody revolution à la Spanish-American style. There have been some skir- lord's cuffs, and actors and musicians brave enough to make the trip from mishes among the gauchos in the south, and once in 1932 the state of São Portugal had diamonds tossed to them after their performances. Paulo took on the rest of the nation. It lost. Other men were busy too. A hardy group of adventurous, blood-thirsty Getulio Vargas was a strongman who took over in a military coup in crusaders banded together near what is now São Paulo and set out to find 1930. The country was horrified, but soon liked the idea of having one more diamond mines and more riches. Carrying the flag of the new colony, man in charge and did very little except grumble against him. When he these "Bandeirantes" (Flag Bearers) pushed out in all directions, claiming was deposed by another military coup in 1945 he sat out his exile on his each new step for Portugal. There had been a treaty of Tordesillas signed home ranch in Rio Grande do Sul and prepared for the elections. In 1951 between Portugal and Spain in the year 1494. It was the idea of Pope Alex- he was elected-legally this time-president of the Republic and right be- ander VI, who wanted as little blood spilled in the New World as possible. side him rode his protegé Joao "Jango" Goulart, later to govern the nation. Both sides agreed to the dividing of the southern continent in a straight Vargas tried to be more democratic this second time around and supported line from what is now Belém on the Amazon River to a little east of Porto labor unions and the like, but still that old obstacle, the Latin military, SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 164 165 of voodoo worshippers meet to pay homage to Iemanjá, the goddess of rest of South America to shame, while both Rio and São Paulo offer a the sea. musical season that can match that of many a European capital in quality. The end of the old year is a time for thanksgiving and the beginning Rio's musical life, like the city itself, is essentially cosmopolitan, with of a new year is the time to ask for the things that will make you happy fine musical performances. You never know whom you might discover for for the next twelve months. From all over the city stream the faithful, de- yourself at Rio's Teatro Municipal or Sala Cecilia Meireles (a rare example termined to start the new year off right. They are of all ages, both sexes, nowadays of a cinema's being converted into a concert hall). One advan- and all colors and economic brackets. Armed with fresh flowers, candles, tage is that you can usually get a ticket if you show up half an hour before and cachaça (sugarcane alcohol), they invade the beach around ten P.M. the concert, unless a major international star is appearing, in which case and get ready for the stroke of midnight. Some draw mystic signs in the book a few days in advance. sand. Others lay out a white tablecloth loaded with the gifts that a proud, There is also the popular music of Brazil, "musica popular brasileira" beautiful woman would like to receive. There are combs, mirrors, lipsticks, (MPB), which, in the form of bossa nova and samba, has reached out and hair ribbons, perfumes, and wines. Around this offering they set a chain embraced the entire world with its happy, vibrant rhythms. Brazilians are of lit candles and chant and sing over it. Some of them bring bouquets equally in love with their music and every city has dozens of bars and res- of flowers with notes asking for special favors tucked in among the blos- taurants where drums and guitars blend into the hypnotic sounds of MPB. soms. Even whole spiritist temples show up in full force, with their white For tourists wishing to buy records, there are plenty from which to choose: costumes, drummers, and altars. They rope off a section of the beach, light Tom Jobim, João Gilberto, Chico Buarque de Holanda, Milton Nascimen- candles, and begin to dance. Others bring a live chicken or goat that will to, Ney Matagrosso, Gilberto Gil, Gaetano Veloso, and Roberto Carlos. be sacrificed to the goddess. Among female singers, Gal Costa, Maria Bethania, Elba Remalho, Alc- By 11:20 P.M. the six-kilometer-long beach is a mass of white-dressed ione, Tetê Espindola, and Simone are the best-known. Record stores can bodies and flickering candles. From a distance it looks as if it has been be found along virtually any commercial district and in all shopping cen- invaded by millions of fireflies. Amid the worshippers, the curious and the ters. If you see a record you like, ask to hear it first. Records in Brazil tourist may freely wander, if careful not to step on an offering or to offend are generally sold for around $4.50 for a popular LP. Nowhere else will the goddess in any way. you find the variety or quality of this exciting music. At exactly midnight, fireworks, sirens, and bells can be heard from all parts of Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon beaches. Now the festivity reaches its maximum. Shrieking, sobbing, and singing, the mass of human- Architecture ity rushes into the water carrying the flowers and gifts for the goddess. Others stay patiently on the shore waiting for the third wave after the Brazilian architecture, though it has not fulfilled the bright promise of the thirties, has much to offer both the architectural student and the ama- stroke of midnight to come up and claim their offering. Be it hypnotic sug- gestion or whatever, the waves suddenly seem to grow in size and come teur photographer. The most striking modern building in Rio, the Palace slapping onto the sand with a new fury. Once the water has carried the of Culture, completed in 1945, is now protected as a national monument. gift into the sea, the giver relaxes and goes home, for this means that the When started, it was one of the most revolutionary buildings anywhere goddess was satisfied with the gift and has promised to grant all wishes. in the world, being one of the first to be built on pilotis-huge concrete If the ocean should throw the offerings back, this is considered an ill omen. pillars that leave almost all the ground level of the site free for patios, plants, and parking areas. Many are the aristrocratic white Carioca women who decline to attend the festivities but, nevertheless, excuse themselves to place bare feet in Le Corbusier, a long-time friend of Brazil, was largely responsible for the design, ably assisted by the brilliant Brazilian Lucio Costa, the man water on the stroke of midnight! who planned Brasilia and the Barra de Tijuca suburb of Rio. Take a stroll among the pillars and gardens of the Ministry for a glimpse of what 20th- Music century city planning could be like if visionaries like Le Corbusier and Brazil is one of the world's most musical countries, and talent flourishes Costa had their way. The block it occupies is an oasis of civilized urban in the tropical climate as exuberantly as the exotic creepers that grow two delight in one of the world's most overcrowded and underplanned cities. inches a day. Brazil is well known for having invented the samba and bossa (Students of population explosion may like to study the average Copaca- nova, but just take a look at the list of "serious" musicians Brazil has also bana residential street, where the cars park on the sidewalks and the chil- given the world in this century: composers Heitor Villa-Lobos, Claudio dren play ball in the street, and draw their own conclusions.) Santoro, Camargo Guarnieri, and Marlos Nobre; pianists Guiomar No- Equally delightful is a stroll around the Rio Museum of Modern Art, vaes, Ophelia de Nascimento, Jacques Klein, Roberto Szidon, Joao Carlos designed by the late Affonso Reidy, whose exuberant use of concrete is Martins, and Nelson Freire; singers Bidu Sayao, Maura Moreira, Maria matched by his structural daring; the whole floor of the Museum's main 'Apparecida, Joao Gibin, and Maria Lucia Godoy; guitarists Eduardo wing is one single slab without divisions or central supports, and all and Sergio Abreu; conductors Eleazar de Carvalho and Isaac Karabts- around are the splendid gardens laid out by Roberto Burle Marx, one of chevsky; early music specialist Roberto de Regina and ballerina Marcia the outstanding landscape gardeners of our time. A disastrous fire swept Haydée, to mention only a few. this building in 1978, but it is being restored. Its artistic holdings, however, The four musical centers of Brazil are Rio, São Paulo, Salvador, and can never be replaced and it will take years to find and acquire new ones. Curitiba. Salvador has the best music school, where many rising young For architects, though, Brasilia is the real thing. Despite its many prob- composers have learned their trade from a German-influenced faculty; Cu- lems it is here to stay and is a truly great place to visit, wander around, ritiba presents an annual music festival that puts anything similar in the and photograph. The air is fresh and unpolluted, the traffic well organized FODOR'S 90 America copyrague SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 177 176 from 6 to 8 weeks delivery time, so order it well in advance of your trip. English By bus. With its growing highway network, Brazil can offer comfortable bus speaking doctors can be located in Rio through the Rio Health Collective, Av. das travel over most of the country, and even internationally. Unless you're in a tour Américas 4430, sala 303, Barra da Tijuca (325-9300, ext. 44). The RHC operates group, however, you can't book straight through from, say, Montevideo to Rio. a free referral service for medical specialists of all kinds, and can provide English- Instead, you buy a ticket from one principal city to the next-Montevideo Porto speaking nurse companions and translators if needed. Provides 24-hour service. Alegre, then Florianópolis, Curitiba, São Paulo and Rio. But you'll need the hotel room and rest between each long leg anyway. On most-traveled routes, service is Elsewhere, consult the American Consulate. British residents may rely on Europe Assistance, 252 High St., Croydon CRO frequent and inexpensive. Between São Paulo and Rio (6½1/2 to 7 hours), for example, there is a bus every half hour all day long costing about $4, and night "sleeper" 1NF, which operates an on-the-spot medical assistance service throughout the at $8. world. Note: This service involves a fee. Rental Cars. Most major cities have local or international Rent-A-Car Services. Pharmaceuticals pose no problem for the visitor. All major cities have excellent Avis and Hertz have extensive operations throughout the country, and there are drugstores and many offer "round the clock" service. several good local car-rental services in various cities. Prices in Rio range from $20 a day for a small Volkswagen "Fusca," plus 5% municipal tax, mileage charges, Safety. Although Brazil has the eighth largest economy in the world, it is a and insurance fees. country where 2 percent of the population are very, very rich and the rest are very, Car Rental Agencies in Rio at the airport and on Rua Princesa Isabel, very poor. Poverty breeds crime. The tourist who can afford the trip is a millionaire Copacabana: Avis, 542-4249/4349; Hertz, 275-4996; InterLocadora, 542-0143 or by Brazilian standards, and thus a prime target for crime. Crime is a problem in 275 6546; 295-0040; Localiza, 275-3340. large cities everywhere, and Rio and São Paulo are no exceptions. To lessen the risk of being assaulted, never wear gold or silver jewelry or watches; carry photo- SPORTS Soccer, called "futebol" and pronounced foo-tea-ball, is as much a graphic equipment in a knapsack worn back-to-front; do not carry a bag at all, if national heritage for Brazilians as wine is for the French and snow for the Eskimo. possible; avoid trouble spots like the Jardim de Allah, the 553 bus, and the Santa The soccer the Brazilians play is a fast game, almost like a ballet, that begins Teresa trolley in Rio, and do not wander around the streets of downtown São Paulo when little boys take their first ball to the beach or into the middle of a vacant lot. alone at night. Be especially on the lookout for young boys working in groups or You can see them bouncing the ball off their knees, giving a backward kick with with prostitutes. Report crimes at your hotel where the staff will direct you to the a bare foot and sending it to a buddy who butts it with his head. In Brazil as well proper authorities. To minimize losses in case of assault, carry only as much money as the rest of the soccer-playing world, only the goalkeeper is allowed to touch the as you will need and leave all valuable documents (passports, airline tickets, travel- ball with his hands. er's checks, etc.) in the safe provided by your hotel. If you like sports at all and are in Rio on a Sunday when two of the major Rio teams are playing each other, you should visit the huge Maracanã soccer stadium. sites GETTING AROUND BRAZIL. By air. There are four major commercial airlines The four main Rio teams are Flamengo (Brazil's most popular team), Vasco (chiefly (Varig, Cruzeiro do Sul, Vasp, and Transbrasil), which together fly over 3 billion identified with the Portuguese colony in Rio), Fluminense (the high society team), passenger-miles a year. The airline companies take good care of their planes, have and Botafogo (the least definable in personality). If you try to go, talk it all over top flight mechanics, and first-class pilots, and crews who refuse to let a plane go ahead of time with someone at the hotel who can tell you how to get there, when up unless they are absolutely certain it is ready to fly. The service is nothing short to go, how to buy tickets, and so forth. Unlike baseball, U.S. or Canadian football, of excellent and full course meals are the rule rather than the exception, followed rugby, cricket, and the like, soccer is easy to understand even if you've never seen always by a cup of black coffee. it before. But even if the game doesn't turn you on, the stadium is impressive, and Their plane scheduling is fairly imaginative and is designed to meet both passen- the crowd itself is half the spectacle. Soccer crowds in the British Isles and northern ger needs and the competition. One of the most successful and most used of all Europe can be extremely surly; and in the Mediterranean and other Latin American the airline services is the popular "air bridge" between Rio and São Paulo. In 1959, countries (as well as most of Brazil), they can be dangerously passionate. But the the four air companies pooled their forces to set up a system to keep both passengers Maracanã crowd is unswervingly good natured, and the stadium is exceptionally and planes constantly flowing between the two major cities. The traveler does not safely constructed, so don't worry about stories you may have read about soccer even need to buy a ticket or make a reservation in advance, you just show up at disasters. For one of the big games between two of the major local teams, large the airport and get aboard the next plane. During the rush hours there is a plane numbers of the rooters bring huge homemade flags, featuring the team's colors in leaving every 30 minutes, and every hour on the hour up to 10:30 P.M. The air bridge a variety of homemade designs, and they wave these flags when their team comes has been a success since its inauguration, carrying more than 2,000 passengers a on the field or scores a goal. Another feature you are not likely to encounter at day. If you want to leave on a specific flight, make a reservation. The cost is about the World Series or the Super Bowl is that drums start beating in various parts of the stadium well before the game and maintain their tom-tom rhythm without $25 one way. So successful was the Rio-São Paulo bridge that in 1962 air bridges were inaugu- a break right through to the end. All in all, the crowd is one of the most colorful rated to Belo Horizone and Brasilia. The flights are not so frequent, because the and exciting spectacles in sport. If you go, try to buy the highest-priced reserved distances are greater, but the regular commuters seem more than satisfied. Planes seats. If you want to be with "the people" in the "arquibancada," be advisd that tend to fill up on weekends; book well in advance if you plan to fly anywhere on it is plain concrete bleachers, so be sure to buy foam rubber pads to sit on before a Friday, especially to or from Manaus or Brasilia. you go into the stadium. If you're planning on doing a good deal of domestic flying in Brazil, you should Capoeira and More. Another sport that is purely Brazilian, not to be found any- purchase a Brazil Air Pass, which is sold only outside of the country. There are where else in the world, is Capoeira. It is a fight, a dance, and a bit of judo all rolled two variations of the pass: one for $250, which allows you to fly to four cities within into one. In the early slave days there were constant fights between the blacks, and 14 days; and the other, costing $330, for six destinations in 21 days. Both are well when the owner caught them at it he had both sides punished. The blacks consid- worth the money. Check with your travel agent before starting your trip. ered this unfair and developed a smoke screen of music and song to cover up the By rail. Train service between Rio and São Paulo is reasonably comfortable. An actual fighting. When a pre-arranged battle was to be fought, the natives brought overnight trip for two in private cabin costs about $17; there is a dining car, and their "berimbau," a bow-shaped piece of wood with a metal wire running from one your porter can even provide "room service." There is excellent regional service end to the other, where there was a painted gourd. Using an old copper coin the from São Paulo on the Paulista and Sorocabana lines and 24-hour service from São player would shake the bow, and while the seeds in the gourd rattled he would strike Paulo to Brasilia, and also from Rio to Belo Horizonte. Most service to other areas the taut string. The effect is like background music for a Hollywood monster film. of Brazil is inferior to air travel. Travelers save both time and often considerable There would be a chorus chanting a fast song and the two fighters would get in the center and slug it out, primarily with their feet. Whenever the master came into trouble by avoiding long rail journeys in Brazil. BRAZIL 178 SOUTH AMERICA 179 view the fighters would do an elaborate pantomime of slashing the air with their fists and kicking out so as to miss their opponent. Over the years this was refined into a sport that is practiced in Bahia and Recife today. Both cities have their cham- pion and there are many capoeira houses where the tourist can go to watch these dances. In Salvador (Bahia), they may be seen on any Saturday morning around the Modelo Market. The idea is to swing and kick to the mood of the music but without either man touching the other. The back-bending all the way to the floor, Exploring Brazil the agile foot movements to stay clear of a gleaming knife, and the strange African music make it a sport that needs great dexterity to play but is fascinating to watch. Rio has recently become a hang-glider's paradise. Taking off from a mountain peak, the colorful kites circle sometimes for hours before landing at the end of Gavea beach, beyond the Inter-Continental and Nacional hotels. RIO DE JANEIRO Water-skiing and underwater diving are also practiced by sportsmen in clubs all along the coastline. Brazilians are a very club-conscious people, and almost every- one you meet will be a member of something and will be able to take you to his Rio de Janeiro has been called the most beautiful city in the world by particular club and introduce you around. They love to show off visitors and most many experienced travelers. With a natural setting surpassing even Hong clubs can only be entered with a member. Once you are inside you'll find the friend- Kong and San Francisco, it has everything. There are long stretches of ship and generosity for which the Brazilians are famous. soft sandy beaches and lines of tall palm trees. There are mountains cov- Horse racing is also immensely popular. The Grande Premio Brasil held first ered with deep green untouched jungle and birds, butterflies, and flowers Sunday in August highlights the racing season. Golf and tennis are available in all leading cities. There are two golf clubs in Rio, where you can play by invitation in profusion. There are great fleecy clouds floating lazily over the ocean, only. Yachting is extemely popular in Rio. And there is surfing and windsurfing which pushes in cool breezes and an occasional rain storm. There are warm days and cool nights and starlit skies and huge full moons. on the beaches. For those who like to fish, Brazil can be a surprising wonderland. Many tourists What nature has given, the Brazilians have embellished with their own try for some marlin fishing off the coast of Rio, and others go to the magnificent personalities. Along the black and white mosaic promenades walk some Foz do Iguaçu to try their hand at dorado. In the Amazon River there are mon- of the loveliest women in Latin America. The men, well built and tanned strous fish called Pirarucú that reach up to 280 pounds each. The nation's rivers from hours on the beach, add their note of masculine grace. Colonial and streams are filled with a variety of game fish. No license is needed and no limit buildings vie for space with modern air-conditioned skyscrapers. There set. is music everywhere, from the honking of taxi and automobile horns, to If you have a taste for hunting; you're out of luck, because the government out- lawed the hunting of big-spotted jaguars, wild boar, fleet-footed jungle deer, moss- soft singing voices. There is an excitement in the air, curiously mixed with backed turtles, and dozens of other animals which were once considered fair game. the tropical languor. But a camera safari into the Mato Grosso or Amazon jungles can still be an adven- But Rio is more than just a beautiful setting. It is a city that boasts its ture. Most travel agencies can tailor a program to suit you. own ballet company, magnificent opera house, and dozens of cultural cen- ters. It is a mecca for artists and enterprising businesspeople. It also calls the international drifter, the expatriate, and the fortune hunter. And in recent years, with the construction of many luxurious hotels, it is South America's tourist capital as well. São Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro is 15 miles long and varies from 2 to 10 miles wide. Nestling between the tall green mountains and the deep blue-green sea, the city offers a breathtaking sight, by day or night. During the day the sun plays on the sand and palm trees, and the white buildings with their red tile roofs serve more to ornament the city's natural beauty than to detract from it. At night the city wears strings of glowing lights, giving the impression that strands of diamonds have been lazily entwined around the buildings and the mountains by some benevolent giant. The most obvious attraction for the visitor is the beach. Just the name Copacabana inspires romantic images, and rare is the tourist who doesn't arrive in Rio and immediately jump into a swimsuit. Rio has 23 different beaches, scattered from the international airport in the north to the other side of the mountains in the south. Most popular are the beaches at Copa- cabana, Ipanema, and Leblon. There are no bathing fees for any of the beaches. Oceanfront hotels provide cabanas, towels, chairs, umbrellas, and security guards for their guests. Waves at the beach come in hard and fast most of the time, so don't expect to do much swimming, just a lot of splashing. Also be prepared to confront lots of people on the weekends. Take nothing of value to the beach-no cameras, no jewelry, no passports, no airline tickets, and only enough cash in cruzados for a drink or a snack, which you can buy from one of the roving vendors. 180 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 181 Assuming you've had enough sun and that you want to see some of the in the 18th century, it was the favorite spot of the Imperial Family and city itself, a good plan is suggested in the following pages. contains many fine examples of art from both the Old and the New Worlds. The site of the church was once the hut of a hermit who, in 1671, Botafogo and Sugar Loaf with the help of two mysterious youths (angels), sculptured a beautiful statue of Our Lady of Glory. Seventeen years later, when the image had sites Take a taxi or a bus to Botafogo and the Museu do Indio, or the Indian been accredited with miraculous powers, the hermit returned to Portugal, Museum, open from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. Tuesday to Friday, 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. taking the image with him. But the ship sank into the ocean, and the statue on weekends (admission is free). Located in an old home at Rua das Pal- washed ashore at Lagos, Portugal. In 1924 a copy was enshrined in its meiras 55 (286-8799), it is a storehouse of Indian work (feathers, ceramics, place in the Gloria Church. The Brazilians still want the original image stone, and weaving), as well as a growing archive of films and recordings returned. On August 15, the church is lit up like a baroque birthday cake of the indigenous people's way of life and music. and silhouetted against the dark sky and palm trees it is one of the loveliest Close by, at Rua São Clemente 134, is the Casa Rui Barbosa (286-1297), sights in Brazil. former home of one of Brazil's leading citizens of the 19th century. Barbo- Walk down the street you drove up and then along the Praça (park) sa, a diplomat and politician, wrote Brazil's first constitution and sup- Paris. Laid out by a French architect a good many years ago, it reminds ported direct elections, abolition, educational reform, federalism, the many Parisians of home, with its marble statues, trimmed hedges, reflec- equality of nations and their right to remain neutral during war. A muse- tion pools, and water fountains. On the opposite side of the avenue you'll um since 1930, Barbosa's house is open to the public from 10 A.M. to 4:30 see the contrast in the ultramodern Monument to the Brazilian Dead of P.M. Tuesday through Friday, and from 2 to 5 P.M. on Saturdays, Sundays, World War II. Brazil sent troops to fight in Italy and suffered heavy losses. /history and holidays. Construction of Rio's controversial and long-overdue subway, which tore Next, head for Sugar Loaf, which is right nearby. It is advisable to get up much of this area, is now finished. Despite a series of financial crises there early for there are usually many people who want to make the visit- and floods, the final stations have been completed, linking the downtown especially during school holidays, January to March and July. Once you area with the edges of the north and south zones of the city. are borne upward you'll have the pleasant sensation of space all around you and a vivid panoramic display of Rio and her natural beauties below. The car makes a half-way stop on Urca mountain, where there is a pleasant Museums and Historic Sites restaurant and a small amphitheater that has shows and popular concerts. Have lunch in the area, perhaps in the rooftop restaurant of Mesbla, Starting in 1978, this peak also became the site for a spectacular pre- Rio's largest department store, right across the street from the Passeio Carnival ball. You can either linger here or transfer to the next car to go Público, oldest public park in the city. Filled with tall shade trees, small to the top, where you have the city at your feet and can identify the other lagoons and rustic bridges, it is a pleasant place to get out of the sun. It points of interest that you must see before you leave. It is best to visit Sugar also has its share of tramps and beggars and a large collection of alley cats. Loaf before you visit the Corcovado Christ statute, or you will remember Leave the park by the upper right-hand sidewalk and keep walking right Sugar Loaf only as an anticlimax. over to Rio's main commercial heartline, Avenida Rio Branco. Walk up There are taxis waiting at the platform where you will return and ask Rio Branco Avenue and you will pass the National Library (Biblioteca the driver to take you-slowly-to the Gloria Church (Igreja da Gloria). Nacional at #219/239 Av. Rio Branco, 240-9229; open Monday to Fri- On the way down Avenida Pasteur you will pass the high-walled Yacht day from 9 A.M. to 8 P.M., and Saturday from 9 A.M. to noon) and the Muse- Club (admittance strictly to members only but you can peer over the um of Fine Arts (Museu Nacional de Belas Artes, Av. Rio Branco 199, chain-barred entrance-way) and the pink-painted colonial buildings be- 240-0160; open Tuesday to Friday from 10 A.M. to 5:30 P.M., Saturdays, longing to the Federal University. Coming out in front of the tunnel of Sundays, and holidays from 3 to 6 P.M.) on your right and the Municipal Pasmado, you'll go along Botafogo beach and after going around a bend Theater (Teatro Municipal, Praça Floriano, 210-2463) on your left. If this you'll be in the Flamengo beach district where a major face-lifting has theater looks familiar, it is because it is an exact one-quarter scale copy taken place. Here they have built the largest public park in Latin America of the Opera House in Paris. If you are here at lunchtime, drop in for an on land reclaimed from the sea. Every ounce of earth was carted in by unforgettable meal at the Café do Teatro, downstairs in the opera building. truck. The planting was done by master landscape gardener Roberto Burle Good cuisine mixes here with an incredible setting, reminiscent of a Cecil Marx. Thanks to the Flamengo aterro, as it is called, you can now drive B. DeMille Biblical epic. Two blocks farther down the Avenue on the left to and from Copacabana in a matter of minutes. The park is a delightful rises the 34-floor, air-conditioned, glass-paneled Edificio Avenida Central, place for a late afternoon stroll. You can also explore it by tractor-drawn Rio's first skyscraper. minitrain, and if you have small children with you, there is a fine play- If you walk through the arcades to the other side of this modern build- ground, and a special space for model aircraft enthusiasts. Be sure to use ing and look across the street, you'll see the old Convent of Santo the overpasses and underpasses to cross the main freeways; accidents are Antonio (Igreja do Convento de Santo Antonio, Largo da Carioca, frequent on the aterro and just about everywhere else in Rio. 262-0129/262-1201; open Monday to Saturday 7 A.M. to 6 P.M., Sunday 9 to 11 A.M. and 4 to 6 P.M.). Built between 1608 and 1619, it contains, Favorite Church of the Imperial Family aside from priceless colonial art objects, the tombs of Leopoldina, the first Empress of Brazil, and the Infante Dom Pedro de Bourbon. Beside the The driver will turn off and climb a steep hill that is lined on both sides convent is the richest little church in Rio, the São Francisco da Penetência with houses harking back to the days of the Portuguese colonials and will (Igreja de São Francisco da Penitência, Largo da Carioca, 5; 262-0197. let you off in front of the big wooden doors of the Gloria Church. Built Open Monday through Friday from 1-5 P.M.). Its interior is completely 182 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 183 hand sculpted and covered in gold foil. It also has a remarkable altar and sacristy. The climb up the hill is worth it. of the Republic, insisted on living there rather than at the other palace where he had been tossed out. It was also at Catete that he killed himself The former hill of Santo Antonio was removed, its earth used to form in 1954. The palace, with its magnificent gardens, was converted into the the Flamengo aterro. The site was transformed into a double avenue bor- Museum of the Republic when Brasilia was inaugurated. The Museu da dered by new buildings. These include the cone-shaped Metropolitan Ca- República, Rua do Catete, 179 (225-4502), after a lengthy restoration, is thedral-still unfinished-the aluminum-block headquarters building of scheduled to reopen in November of 1989. Petrobrás (the government oil monopoly) and, across the avenue, the high- Now you can have lunch downtown and hop into another cab for a bet- rise headquarters of the National Housing Bank and the glass tower of ter look at the old aqueduct, over which little trolley cars cross on their the National Savings Bank. Behind this modern setting you will see the way to the lovely residential area of Santa Teresa. You saw these arches colonial arches built in 1723 to carry water down to the city. from the other side yesterday. Now, however, you will be standing in the Go back down Rio Branco, until you come to Rua Ouvidor. There are Lapa district. The parks and fountains inaugurated in 1975 are on a site no automobiles permitted on this street and it buzzes like an over-active beehive. that was once the center of Rio's bohemian nightlife and samba. Many of the surrounding buildings have escaped the march of progress; indeed, Five blocks from Ouvidor is Avenida Presidente Vargas. Be careful some have been protected as examples of Rio's architectural history. Look crossing the street here, because Brazilian drivers are notorious for dis- for the Automóvel Club, the Sala Cecilia Meireles concert hall, the Na- obeying traffic lights. To your right is the back entrance of the squat, at- tional School of Music, and the large white Convent of Santa Teresa, built tractive Church of Candelaria. (Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Candelária, in 1970 and now the home of a Carmelite order of nuns who have no con- Praça Pio X at the beginning of Getulio Vargas, 233-2324; open Monday tact with the outside world. to Friday from 7:30 A.M. to noon and 1 to 4:30 P.M.; Saturday from 7:30 A.M. to noon; Sunday from 9 A.M. until noon mass is over). The front of the Now for a visit to one of the most charming corners of the city, the building once overlooked the waters of Guanabara Bay, but the view is Largo do Boticário just off Rua Cosme Velho. Everyone will tell you it dates from colonial times, whereas in fact only one of its houses dates from now obstructed by buildings and elevated drives. The inside is dark and earlier than the 1920s. It is a pleasantly shady spot, one of its attractions relaxing after a walk in the sun. being an English-owned antique store. Continuing downward on Rio Branco you will come to Praça Mauá Now comes the treat, Corcovado. You can do one of two things. Contin- and the beginning of miles of docks that have made the city such an impor- ue in your taxi to the top of the mountain, which will give you a slow, tant world trading center. Praça Mauá is peopled by all sorts, with heavy unwinding, breathtaking view of all angles of the city, or go to Rua Cosme emphasis on foreign sailors. Now take a bus marked Copacabana, Ipane- Velho 513 and take a tiny cogwheel train to the top. Trains leave every ma, or Leblon and go back to your hotel and have a tall, cool drink. You've half hour and the ride is almost straight up through dense vegetation. earned it today. When you arrive you'll have to climb a number of stairs to get to the base of the statue. The statue is impressive up close and the view from the top monuments The Mother of Palm Trees simply indescribable. The statue, inaugurated in 1931, has a height of 120 feet and weighs 700 tons. The head alone weighs 30 tons; each arm weighs mores Another full day could start with an hour at the beach, a shower, and 30 tons and each hand 8 tons. The statue was designed by Frenchman Paul then a visit to the Botanical Garden on Rua Jardim Botânico. Take any Landowski and paid for by contributions of the people of Rio. bus marked "Joquei" or "Jardim Botânico"-they all run along Rua The best time to visit the statue is in the late afternoon about one hour Jardim Botânico. The garden is one of the best in the world, say noted before sunset. The effect of the reddening sun against the buildings and horticulturalists, and is carefully kept up. Covering an area of 567,000 the sea far below is stunning. Wait patiently and one by one the lights of square meters, there are over 135,000 plants and trees. There are 900 varie- the town will start to come on, like fireflies awakening for the evening. ties of palm tree alone. Founded in 1808 by the prince regent Dom Joao, Within half an hour the city will be dressed in sparkling diamonds and there stood near the entrance gate the famous palma mater transported silhouetted against the dark shapes of Sugar Loaf and the blackening wa- from the West Indies and planted by the monarch. There is also a striking- ters of the bay and ocean. Warning: The last trolley leaves at 7 P.M. and ly beautiful avenue of palms that is 740 meters long and contains 134 royal is always crowded. If you go up in a cab have the driver wait. palms. Also be sure and see the bronze fountain dating back to 1820 and You may want to visit the Maracanã soccer stadium, the biggest in the the mammoth Victoria Regia water lilies that measure 21 feet around. world. Built in 1950 for the World Championship Games, it can hold- There is also a peaceful jungle atmosphere, lake and waterfall, a small and has held-as many as 200,000 people at one time. While the designers greenhouse filled with insectivorous plants, including Venus flytraps, and looked after the comfort of the spectators, they also considered the players, some rare trees from Indonesia, whose huge roots spread atop the ground and there is a wide moat around the field to protect the athletes should like writhing cobras. they lose. From there take a taxi to the Laranjeiras Palace, the residence of the Within walking distance is the Quinta da Boa Vista and the Museu Na- governer of Rio. You probably won't be allowed past the guard, but the cional, a beautiful old pink and white building that used to be the Imperial drive through the Guinle Park and past the luxurious private apartment Family's Rio palace, in a gemlike setting of landscaped parks, lakes and houses that line it is worthwhile. Now still in your cab, take a quick look marble statues. The museum is open from 10 A.M. to 4:45 P.M. every day at Catete Palace on Rua do Catete, Flamengo. Built of granite and rose- except Monday and is filled with traces of Brazil's past, both historical colored marble in 1862 by a wealthy coffee baron, it was purchased 32 and archeological. There are Indian funeral urns, reconstructed fossils, years later by the federal government and used as the Foreign Office. Dic- and a fine collection of Amazon reptiles and insects, and one of the best tator Getulio Vargas, when he returned to power as duly elected President collections of birds in the world (264-8262). SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 199 198 (252-4512), open Mon.-Fri. 8 A.M.-6 P.M. Branches: International Airport, Arrivals, located in Lapa, near Centro, was completed in 1750 and is part of the National Sections A, B, and C (398-4073/7). Open from 5 A.M. to 11 P.M. Same languages Historic Register. The Santa Teresa trolley tracks run on it. Museu do Palácio do Itamarati (Itamarati Museum), Avenida Marechal Floriano 196, Centro spoken as above. (291-4411, ext. 6), temporarily closed for complete renovation. The palace itself TOURS. You can easily book a tour around Rio and its environs through your is considered one of the best examples of classical architecture in Rio and was built hotel. There are many tour operators licensed by Embratur who cater to tourists in 1853. After the proclamation of the republic, it was purchased by the Federal in English, Spanish, and other languages. Most tours are by air-conditioned bus, Government and served as the President's residence until 1897. Remodeled in 1930, which will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel. Tours are run to Corcova- the building now houses a museum with a varied collection of art and artifacts. do/Floresta de Tijuca ($17), Pão de Açucar and the Botanical Garden ($18), Petro- Museu Chácara do Ceu, Rua Murtinho Nobre, 345, Santa Teresa (224-8981) is polis ($20), Petropolis and Teresopolis ($30), downtown and Niteroi Bridge ($13), open Tues. through Sat. from 2 to 5:30 P.M., Sun. from 1 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. In addition and various other combinations of these sights. Night and special tours include Rio to a beautiful view of Rio from a peaceful garden, this museum offers a select sample by Night ($50), Samba Show ($40), football game ($17), Paradise Island Tour of the art collection of Raymundo Castro Mayer, which includes works by promi- around Sepetiba Bay ($36), Macumba, or African Spiritist cult ceremonies ($38), nent European painters and the Don Quixote series by Portinari, considered one and Buzios/Cabo Frio ($50). of Brazil's great artists. Museu do Folclore Edson Carneiro, (Edson Carneiro Folk- Tour operators offering these itineraries include: BTR, Av. Nossa Senhora de lore Museum), Rua do Catete, 181, Catete (285-0891) is open from Tues. to Fri., Copacabana 330,402 (235-1320). BrazilRio Viagens e Turismo, Ltda., Avenida Co- 11 A.M. to 6 P.M.: Sat., Sun., and holidays from 3 to 5 P.M. Collection includes hand- pacabana 300A, Copacabana (541-5099). Ékoda, Rua México 11, sala 1502, Centro crafts, household and religious objects, musical instruments, and popular literature (240-7067). Specializing in service to Búzios. Gray Line, Avenida Niemeyer 121, (broadsides) from all over Brazil. Museu da Imagem e do Som (Museum of Image loja T1, São Conrado (central reservations: 274-7146, 294-0393, 294-1196). Kon- and Sound) Praça Rui Barbosa, 1 (near Praça XV de Novembro), Centro tik-Franstur, Avenida Atlantica, 2316A, Copacabana (237-7797). SulAmerica (262-0309), is open Mon. through Fri. from 1 to 6 P.M. Varied collection of record- Turismo, Av. Copacabana 441, suite 201, Copacabana (257-4732, 257-4735, ings, photographs, and archives reflecting the life of the city of Rio and Brazilian 236-6947). Vikings, Rua Barata Ribeiro, 383, sobreloja, Copacabana (255-9242). Popular Music. Walpax, Rua Visconde de Pirajá, 547, suite 725, Ipanema (511-1242). The south of Rio is the chic and expensive place to live. Here are the best hotels, For a more culturally-oriented approach, the Projeto Roteiros Culturais, sup- restaurants, and beaches. Here is Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon. A little farther ported by the Associação Brasileira de Educação (Brazilian Education Associa- are Avenida Niemeyer and São Conrado beach, where the newest hotels are located. tion), sponsors guided tours by Prof. Carlos Roquette in English and French, for Here also is the beautiful Lagoa (lagoon) Rodrigo de Freitas, the traditional Jockey $20. In-depth explanations are available in tours of Colonial Rio, Imperial Rio, the Club, the calm and well-kept Botanical Gardens, Presidents' and governors' pal- Botanical Garden, Chácara do Ceu Museum, the Teatro Municipal, and other aces, and, rising from the bay's blue water, Sugar Loaf. Museu da Cidade (City points of interest. Information is available 24 hours a day at 322-4872, and offices Museum), Estrada de Santa Marinha (Parque da Cidade, Gávea), 322-1328 is open are located at Rua Santa Clara 110, suite 904, Copacabana. Tues. through Sun. and holidays from noon to 4:30 P.M. Objects illustrating the his- tory of the city are displayed by century, with a special room on the pharmaceutical mores SIGHTS AND MUSEUMS. Rio is divided into the Zona Norte (North Zone), industry. The Villa Riso, for groups with reservations (call 274-1708 or 322-1444), Zona Sul (South Zone), and Centro (Center), and it makes sense to see the points of interest in each zone at the same time. Many of these have already been described at Estrada da Gávea 728, São Conrado, operates as a museum, performance space, in the Rio narrative. The Zona Norte is the poorer section, with the lower economic and concert hall and features employees in colonial dress, (à la Williamsburg, VA.) classes and small individual homes. Away from the breezes of the ocean it can also who give a tour of this former fazenda. be sticky hot. But it does have interesting and important spots to visit like the Separating the city into north and south districts is the junglelike Tijuca Forest Church of Penha, the Museu Nacional, in the former Imperial Palace, Quinta da with its Emperor's Table, Chinese View, and impressive waterfall. You can visit Boa Vista, the Zoo, Maracanã (the world's biggest soccer stadium), and the Feira it via private car, taxi, or bus tour. Nordestino at São Cristovao, held Sun. from 6 A.M. to 1 P.M., a fair which features BEACHES. Visitors to Brazil are always surprised to see how important the food and articles from Brazil's Northeast. The central part of the city is the commercial area, with bustling AvenidaRio beach is to the Brazilians. Not just for those who live in the coastal cities, but even Branco and Avenida Presidente Vargas. Here are all of the banks, important depart- for those who live deep in the interior. Copacabana Beach or fashionable Ipanema ment stores, and office buildings. Here also is the Museum of Modern Art (Museu Beach are focal points of life in Rio. The beach permeates the lives of Cariocas the de Arte Moderno-MAM), Parque do Flamengo, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique way winter conditions the lives of Canadians. Everyone falls under the influence (210-2188)-closed for restoration at press time-set in bayside gardens; the Muse- of the beach, which is cocktail party, college mixer, soccer field, and backyard all in one. um of Fine Arts (Belas Artes), Av. Rio Branco 199 (240-0160 or 240-0068), open Tues. and Thurs. 10 A.M. to 6:30 P.M.; Wed. and Fri. noon to 6:30 P.M., Sat. and Sun. Rio's beaches-all 23 of them-are all public. There are rest rooms, but no pri- 3-6 P.M.; the National History Museum (Museu Historico Nacional), Praça Mare- vate cabanas or changing rooms. You either arrive in your suit at the beach or else chal Ancora, near Praça XV; (240-7978 or 240-7928), open Tues-Fri., 10 A.M. to you peel off your clothes right there with your bathing suit on underneath. There 5:30 P.M. Sat., Sun., and holidays from 2:30 to 5:30 P.M. Partially under restoration is no color line drawn, the rich lie on the none-too-clean sand with the poor, as and reorganization, the classic Municipal Theater; all the old Congress and Su- fruit and soft drink sellers walk over them equally. As one upper-crust American preme Court buildings from when Rio was the nation's capital; and an area with tourist once put it: "It is probably the most democratic beach in the world." The undertow is strong, making swimming difficult, but the waves are prized movie houses called Cinelandia. Other museums and sights in this area include: Paço Imperial (Royal Palace), by surfers. And lifeguards are stationed along Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon Praça XV de Novembro, Centro (224-2407 or 224-8838). Currently used as an ex- in numbered postos, or posts, which also serve as landmarks by which you can orient hibition and concert hall, the Paço Imperial was the site of many historic events, yourself. including the signing of the "Lei Aurea," Brazil's Emancipation Proclamation, by Brazilians begin their beach life early. It is not at all unusual to see tiny babies Princesa Isabel in 1888. Open Tues. through Sun. from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M., and other in wicker baskets soaking up the sun alongside their bikini-clad mothers. When they days according to ongoing events (check newspaper listings), it also features an ex- get old enough to walk they are usually accompanied by a maid who hovers over hibit on the archeological research carried out during the building's recent restora- them. Once they are able to leave their maids they go to the beach with their friends. tion. Gift shop has prints of old Rio, picture calendars, and items sewn from printed The boys learn to play soccer, boys and girls learn volleyball, windsurfing, and surf fabric inspired by Indian body painting designs. Aqueduto da Carioca (Aqueduct), boarding. Later on, these same children will do their homework on the beach, listen BRAZIL 211 SOUTH AMERICA Historically, immense wealth generated by the coffee plantation period 210 positioned São Paulo fortuitously: when the late-blooming Brazilian in- dustrial revolution finally burgeoned during the late 1950s and early 1960s, São Paulo boomed, growing outward from the Centro district in SÃO PAULO concentric circles of development, forming an accretion of 500 neighbor- hoods. Little is left from the colonial period except for the determined spir- it of the Bandeirantes, hunters for Indian slaves and gold whose hardy well you've studied Latin America surprise. and boned There up on is expeditions into the interior claimed much of Brazil's territory and count- Brazil, the city of São other South American nation, no other richest area No matter how Paulo will come as a startling place that less native lives. The legacy of such ruthlessness and rapid growth is relent- less concrete, helter-skelter urban sprawl, a mania for achievement, and nothing like close it in or any that even hints of coming close. It's of all the the Brazilians. an area so rich that it is virtually a country within a country. The costs can in come the fastest growing, and the pride doesn't begin in São of industrialization have been as high as the profits-São Paulo also holds South America, happens in Brazil that economically, the dubious distinction of including within its immediate vicinity Cubatão, Nothing of importance be the country's capital, but politically, and the generally conceded to be the world's most polluted community. Paulo. Brasilia may São Paulo is the number one city in the Where country, Rio is beau- São Paulo today is a cosmopolitan hybrid, manifesting layers of cultural and culturally, metropolis in all of South America. São Paulo is com- amalgamation that distinguishes it from the rest of Brazil, where the eth- largest, wealthiest Paulo is brilliant. Where Rio is devil-may-care, lackadaisical, São Paulo nic stew is made of a different mix. To the original African and Portuguese tiful, São and dynamic. Where Rio is laid-back and work ethic. influences-epitomized by the earthy sensuality of samba and the piety mitted is efficient, productive, as natives and of the propelled city are by called, the work entertainment. hard, play hard, Pauli- and of Catholic tradition-were added the cultural traits of later immigrants, primarily Japanese and Italian. The largest Japanese community outside demand the very shrewd, best industrious Yankees of Brazil. This con- Paulistanos, in shopping, restaurants, and mighty head- Japan added its industriousness and pragmatism; the Italians contributed their flair for seizing and enjoying the moment. Simmered together with stanos are of the multinational companies and manufacturing is This a craggy is where the universal yearnings of the immigrant, these cultural ingredients pro- quarters skyscrapers and astute entrepreneurs. right place duced the Paulistano: responsible, competent, ambitious, free from Anglo- crete center come of to make it big, for everyone knows that to success the are hard Saxon angst at pleasure, warm and flexible in dealing with people. Brazilians here, and the secret ingredients and talent, The state of São Paulo, whose residents are called "Paulistas," is a fit and the right time are This giant city is a magnet and for all money over the world. setting for its active, pulsating, capital city. With some of the richest farm- work drawing and the persistence. ambitious cross between from all New parts York of Brazil and Los Angeles. semi-permanent Like Los An- land in Brazil, it supplies almost half the nation's coffee, cotton, fruits, and vegetables. The fertile land is criscrossed by an excellent system of geles, São it Paulo sprawls is a over 589 square miles, by a giant is covered freeway by system. a Like New the railways and modern highways, which the industries scattered in the small towns use to their advantage. blanket of smog, and dominate is connected the horizon in jagged a concrete clusters, white noise São Paulo is a cosmopolitan city that owes its progress to people from York, skyscrapers traffic and construction provides permanent best, most so- all nations, the richness of the soil and the temperate climate. It is a never constant din of and life is lived indoors, at night, in in all the Brazil. ending source of investigation and amazement on the part of sociologists in phisticated the background, restaurants, nightclubs, in New York, and Paulistanos company have a love-hate and threaten- rela- and a richly rewarding experience to those Brazilians who feel their coun- try is capable of becoming an important world power. Like their counterparts They complain that it is ugly, dirty, do Jordão From a sleepy little Jesuit colony founded in 1554 it has grown into tionship with their they city. escape to Guarujá by the Manhattan sea or Campos for Long Island metropolis almost three times the size of Paris, with an industrial district ing. On weekends, New Yorkers flee they can't that swallows up mile after mile of surrounding land per annum. There in the mountains Some the way say they find it impossible to live here, has the yet tempo, the violent energy in the air and none of the sentimentality that binds the or the Catskills. anywhere else. No other Brazilian the city pursuit of excellence. rest of the nation to the past. For São Paulo there is only the future. The imagine living excitement that comes from included a vaca- Paulistas like to say that "São Paulo can never stop." And from the way creative drive, the never get to São Paulo, as it is rarely include São Paulo on would it has weathered every political crisis and change and steered its way tioner's itinerary. to the Yet United a visit States to without seeing Rio New instead of the superla- Most tourists Brazil that did not York-unthinkable through inflation and depression, it looks as if it never is going to stop. But it is not an inhuman city of robots, concrete, and machines. It is be like going for the seductions of avoid- city of people who have come looking to better themselves from every Nevertheless, Paulo, many a settle mistake São Paulo's 14 million are descendents residents have of immi- nation on the globe. They are individuals who desire better living condi- tives of São Paulo's inhabitants of the great tions and are willing to work for them. The Paulista asks nothing from ed. Seventy most percent of whom of arrived São between 1885 the and New 1914 World. as part Another wave anyone. He has two hands and uses them to get what he wants. Sometimes his attitude is rather Texan, in that he thinks the world comes to an end grants, from Europe and Asia to War, while transplants from global migration after the Second World new lives. the state's boundaries. His capital city is self-contained and thrives on of Europeans arrived and impoverished northeast arrive what daily São to start Paulo is made the manufacture of textiles, clothes, paper, pottery, chemicals, automo- Brazil's Brazil's interior big apple. Great expectations work are hard, and make it hap biles, trucks, buses, and steel. His state alone provides one-fourth of the This is realize come here, that by the two million new jobs Brazil needs annually to keep unemployment from of. People The city with is dreams constantly to a million. estimate becoming a severe problem. pen. year 2000, São Paulo will have "SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 213 212 The city was first with enough cheap electrical power to handle any in- with. Today the Instituto Butantan, Avenida Vital Brasil 1500, Butantã dustry that was interested in building there. It also offered a direct railway (211-8211), the largest snake farm in Latin America, counts more than connection to the seaport town of Santos, and its early governors encour- 70,000 snakes in its collection, as well as thousands of spiders, scorpions, aged immigration of industrial workers rather than farmers. Those Euro- and lizards. It extracts their venom regularly and processes it so it can who couldn't take the climate of Rio or Bahia thrived in São Paulo, han- be flown anywhere in the world when it's needed in a hurry. The institute peans built their homes there, and encouraged their children to stay on and is open Mon. 1-5 P.M., and Tues.-Sun. and holidays from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. dle the family businesses. The result is that today the city counts a number Be sure to see them milking the snakes between 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. You of millionaire families who are third and fourth generation Paulista, and can take a bus from Praça da Republica or, of course, a taxi, for it's quite they are proud to tell the visitor the way their grandparents worked which their a distance from the downtown area. from steerage class to the mansions along Avenida Paulista, build- Within walking distance of the snake farm is the House of the Flag- way are rapidly up being replaced today by ultra-modern bank and office bearer (Casa do Bandeirante), Praça Monteiro Lobato (211-0920). An old ranch house that goes back to the 18th cenury, the building was complete- ings. ly restored in 1954 and decorated with priceless furniture and pottery of the period. Even the outside buildings like the corn crib and the mill are The Times Square of Brazil authentic down to the last detail. If you are interested in the antiques of Probably the best place to "feel" the pulse of the city is right in its heart, this era, you'll love the place. It's open from Tues. to Sun. from 1 to 5 P.M. There is a guide here. Entrance is free. the bridge over the vast Avenida Anhangabaú. It leads into the Praça do requirents Patriarca. Just stand there and observe the autos and people hurrying below in what appears to be organized confusion. This is the Times Parks, Museums, and Sights Square you of Brazil, and the bridge you're on is the Viaduto do Cha worked (tea), Ibirapuera Park is perhaps the biggest one of its kind in the world. It named for the product once grown in this valley. The intricately covers two million square meters, is decorated with natural lakes and roll- bridge farther down the avenue is the Santa Ifigênia, recently spruced Electric up ing, well-watered lawns, and contains ten modern exhibition halls where by the city and bathed in golden light at night by the General note one thing or another is being shown. The entrance to the park is dominated monuments Co. Now look at the buildings that flank each side of the bridge and below by a statue containing 36 figures of the pioneers, Indians, and horses who especially the squat white granite, solid looking one that is partly head- braved the unmapped lands and carved out a new empire. The statue, the the bridge and partly above it. It is the Matarazzo Building, former first quarters of one of Brazil's most successful immigrant families. The when work of Frenchman Victor Brecheret, is 50 meters long and has been given the affectionate if irreverent name of "Don't push." Inside the park you'll Matarazzo came to Brazil as an immigrant and arrived dripping wet be able to visit the Japanese Pavilion, which is an exact reproduction of his boat overturned going to the shore. He had lost every one of his posses- sions. Undaunted but penniless, he started to buy and sell pork fat door the Katura Palace in Japan and is kept up by donations of the Japanese to door. Soon he had a small lard company and this he parlayed into a colony. There is also a windowless dome of cement called the History Pa- vilion. Here are the museums of Science, Aeronautics, and Technical Arts. canning factory. Not long afterward there was nothing that he wasn't by In the Pavilion Pereira, the world-famed Bienal art exhibits are held in story manufacturing or operating. Today the Matarazzo businesses are run odd years-the next one is in 1989. The greatest display of contemporary his granddaughter and grandsons. Now walk up Rua Barão de Itapetininga across the Praça Ramos blocks de art in Latin America, the show attracts painters from all over the globe who compete for top honors in the art world. The Planetarium is also in Azevedo along the front of the majestic Teatro Municipal and four with this park and is rated the best in South America. Complete, absorbing Av. Ipiranga. Here is the center of the man-in-the-streets haunts, and shows are given each Saturday, Sunday, and holiday at 5 and 6 P.M., and to the huge movie theaters, the elegant and well-kept Praça de Republica tourist on weekdays arrangements can be made ahead for groups. Tickets at the the sidestreets leading off to shops and specialty stores. Most of the offices door cost about 90 cents. There is also a radio-telescope (the only one in and souvenir shops are in this area, as well as the airline company Brazil) that lets you "listen" to the stars, as well as an interesting corner and better bookstores. where telescopes are assembled. (For information call 544-4606.) Take Edifício Italia, tallest building in South America, is situated at the high- any bus marked Ibirapuera. est point in São Paulo. Visit one of its rooftop bars or restaurants on a Along the banks of the Anhembi River, at the entrance to the São Paulo- clear day or night. Behind it, on Ipiranga, is the graceful, serpent-shaped Oscar Rio Highway, is Anhembi Park, whose exposition hall is the world's larg- and office building designed by famed Brasilia builder est aluminum structure. The roof is supported by 25 light columns and apartment Niemeyer, across the street from the São Paulo Hilton. Turning from Ipi- the hall is illuminated by 200 aluminum globes. Right beside it is a mod- and walking down São Luiz, which leads to the Hotel Jaraguá, you'll have ernistic convention hall seating 5,000 persons. A 453-room hotel is also ranga new office buildings with shops, theaters, and luxury stores that under construction nearby. see up in the past few years. São Paulo is like New York in this respect; one The Zoological Park is located in Avenida Miguel Estafeno, 4241, Agua sprung wherever you look there is an old building coming down and a new Funda (276-0811). The largest zoo in South America, it displays over 400 animals and 600 birds. There are few fences or cages and Paulistas dot rising in its place. In 1888 the state government purchased an old farm house and turned could the lawns on Sunday afternoons with their tablecloths and picnic baskets. it to a scientist who had some crazy notion that snake serum It is open daily from 9 A.M. to 6 P.M., and adult admission is about $1. be over used to save the life of someone bitten by a snake. His first patients work Near the zoo, on the same avenue at number 3031, is the Jardim Botâni- were the horses of the Paulista cavalry, and he had 64 snakes to co, an orchid farm where there are over 35,000 species. The force of so BRAZIL 223 222 SOUTH AMERICA Santos is another pride of the Paulistas, for aside from having the biggest dock area in Latin America, it also has a tropical climate and some beauti- Show Houses ful beaches. Apart from the basilica of Santo Andre, which faces the beach Beco, Avenida Paulista, 424 (287-1234). Open Mon. through Sat. from 8:30 P.M. and the row after row of modern apartment buildings, the city has little on. Variety show with mulatas. Artistic cover charge. to offer the tourist except her beaches. They are different from the ones Palace, Avenida dos Jamaris, 213, Moema (531-4900). Open Wed. through Sun. in Rio, the sand being darker and harder. from 8 P.M. The nearby island of Guarujá is lush, green, and lined with towering Palladium Eldorado, Avenida Rebouças, 3970, 3rd fl., Pinheiros (814-8713, palm trees-and, increasingly, with high-rises along the ocean. Today, to 814-7136). Bar, restaurant, dance floor, and sophisticated non-touristic floor show. reach more unspoiled areas you must go north by bus or car, crossing the Artistic cover charge. Open Tues. through Sun. from 8 P.M. to 3 A.M. ferry to Bertioga and beyond (but avoid Sundays and holidays because of long lines). There are some relatively untouched beaches, considering Danceterias/Discotheques the proximity to Santos and the number of weekend visitors. They offer a pleasant visual and mental change from the hustle of the city. A trip Paulicéia, Rua Pinheiros 473, Pinheiros (883-5038). Popular with university stu- around the island by automobile can be made in an hour, for the roads dents and journalists. Show Days, Ave. Rebouças 3970, 3rd floor (shopping Eldorado) (814-9513). are paved and in good condition. The best beaches north of Guarujá are Ubatuba, Caraguatatuba, and the romantic island of Ilha Bela. Wild West decor; popular with couples. Up & Down, Rua Pamplona 1418, Cerqueira Cesar (285-1081). Trendy disco The coastal village of Paratí was founded way back in the early 16th with computer-controlled lights and giant TV screens. century. Its calm, natural little harbor was the perfect jumping off point Zoom, Rua Dr. Zuquim 311, Santana (299-6696). Two dance floors, three bars; for adventurers looking for the gold and precious stones in Minas Gerais. For decades the town flourished while it catered to the needs of the miners holds 2,000 people. and helped them spend their money. But the boom calmed down, Santos rose in importance because of its superb harbor, and over the years Paratí was forgotten. Then just a few years ago, the Paulistas rediscovered this SOUTHEASTERN BRAZIL colonial village (actually located in Rio de Janeiro state), and the govern- ment declared it a national monument whose architectural style must be preserved. Today it is important as a tourist center. With the Rio-Santos The headquarters of Brazil's southeastern region are the cities of Rio Highway passing close by, traffic jams became so great that cars are now and São Paulo, but in both the state of Rio and the state of São Paulo banned from most city streets. Those who have taken the time to visit it there is an abundance of attractions for the traveler who wants to get away. come back with glowing tales of baroque churches, charming squares, and from the big city. The two states combine miles of beautiful beaches with an unspoiled old-world charm. Many houses have been restored by private a mountainous region that runs down the coast and is home to numerous parties and the tendency is to preserve as much of the original flavor as mountain resort villages that serve as getaways for the harried Paulistas possible. and Cariocas who want peace and quiet together with mountain air. São Paulo's mineral water resort area is located in the northeastern part of the state near the border with the state of Minas Gerais. The top resorts, Poços de Caldas, Caxambú and Aquas da Prata, are all within a short dis- THE STATE OF SÃO PAULO tance of one another and some 150 miles from the city of São Paulo. The If one cannot understand the "Paulistas" contented "I want to be isolat- various spas and hot spring resorts radiate northward into the higher ed" attitude from studying their capital city, then it will certainly become country, away from the capital city. Most of them have a large German apparent when the rest of their domain is seen. The area has everything or Swiss population and will remind the traveler more of Europe than South America. from sandy beaches to lofty mountain plateaus, from colonial splendor to ultramodern health resorts. To see all of it you need time, much more The hot springs attract an equal number of visitors, who go there to time than most tourists have to devote to an area. That is one of the prob- sit in the warm, swirling (at times rather smelly) water, rather than drink lems of visiting Brazil. There is so much to see that it's absolutely impossi it. Campos do Jordão, Poços de Caldas, and Serra Negra all have dry cli- mates and their waters are famous for treating such diverse ailments as ble to crowd it all in one visit. The State of São Paulo itself is about the size of Great Britain and rheumatism, skin diseases, and fatigue. Clean and nicely landscaped, these villages are as pleasant to the eye as they are to the skin. Northern Ireland put together, covering 95,800 square miles. Slow to take root (the first colonies founded by the Jesuit fathers were complete fail- ures), São Paulo didn't really start to grow until the coffee plant was intro- PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE STATE OF SÃO PAULO duced in the early 1800s. The product found a ready market, and when WHEN TO GO. This depends on where you are going. Because of the varying in 1847 a landowner near Limeira brought over a colony of Germans to altitude of the state, which ranges from sea level to 9,000 feet, it can be hot in some work his fields, the area was on its way at last. The demand for coffee grew spots and cold in others at the same time. If you want the seashore, then the months and more and more immigrants came from Europe to try their hand with of Dec. to Apr. are the best. But exactly during these months you will be competing the new plant. From Italy alone came a million people. Portugal sent half with Brazilian tourists for the best hotels in such popular vacation beach towns a million and Spaniards and Japanese many hundreds of thousands. From as Guarujá, Ubatuba, Caraguatatuba, Ilha Bela, and Paratí. During Carnival in the sale of coffee came money enough to start factories, install electrical Feb. or Mar. it is almost impossible to find a hotel room without a reservation well inadvance. Those same months will be chilly in the evenings in the mountain resorts power, build railways, and clear rich forest land. BRAZIL 227 226 SOUTH AMERICA Moderate, Rua Rio de Janeiro 267 (94-1511); and the Majestic, Moderate, hotels. Praça (331-1244); Brasil, Moderate, Praça João Laje (331-1422); Negreiros, Moderate, Dr. Vicente Rizzo 160 (94-1812), with tennis courts. Meals included at all Rua Venceslau Bras 242 (331-1533). ATIBAIA ARAXA HOTELS. Famous mineral spa in Minas Gerais near the border with São Paulo. HOTELS. A mountain village 45 miles from the city of São Paulo, Atibaia is Best hotel is Grande Hotel, Moderate, Estância do Barreiro (661-2011). most proud of the fact that according to UNESCO it possesses the second healthiest Suggested side trips to springs at Barbeiro, Osario, and Cascatinha Gruta de climate in the world, losing out only to Switzerland. It also is home to one of the best mountain resorts in Brazil. The Village Eldorado, Expensive, Dom Pedro I Monje and Historic Museum of Dona Beja. Highway km 70.5 (484-2533), is an idyllic escape for São Paulo's businessmen. Other good hotels are Parque Atibaia, Expensive, Fernao Dias Highway CAMPOS DO JORDÃO (484-3744), Recanto da Paz, Moderate, 10 chalets on a former farm (487-1369). HOW TO GET THERE. The most sophisticated and popular of the mountain The area surrounding Atibaia is one of Brazil's most popular camping areas. of São Paulo, Campos can be reached by bus or car from São Paulo located or by resorts a short train ride from São Jose dos Campos, one of the state's main cities on the Rio-São Paulo Highway (Via Dutra). THE SOUTH HOTELS. This picturesque mountain village has become one of São Paulo's taber- top tourist attractions, offering Swiss-style hotels and chalets amidst a setting of Deluxe, nacle pines, mountains, and streams. Tops among the hotels are the Toriba, The south of Brazil moves to the same upbeat, quickened pace of the expensive than those served in many international restaurants with good ratings. of but worth it, located in a natural park, with meals, included in room rate, Av city and state of São Paulo. Here in the states of Rio Grande do Sul, Para- better Ernesto Diederichsen (62-1566); book well in advance, the hotel is a favorite included. ná, and Santa Catarina, the results of heightened economic growth over residents of São Paulo; Orotur Garden Hotel, Expensive, meals Roberto the last 15 years are clearly apparent. Large, modern cities with efficient European Rua 3 (62-2833); Vila Inglesa, Expensive, meals included, Rua Senador public transportation systems coexist with the ruins of colonial times and the natural beauty of one of Brazil's most fascinating areas. In the far Simonsen 3500 (63-1955). south on the borders of Argentina and Uruguay, a mixture of Spanish, WHAT TO SEE. The natural setting is easily one of the most beautiful in Brazil be Portuguese, German, and Italian cultures has produced the fabled land and matter how many walks among the pines you take, there will mountains always of the gauchos: the flat pampas grasslands stretching as far as the eye can something no else to see. Horses can be rented and there are many nearby Ameri- that be easily climbed. In the month of June the city hosts one of South for see, the spirited proud horses, the women in their skirts and multicolored ca's finest can classical music festivals and throughout the year there are activities petticoats, the thousands of grazing cattle, the lonely nights, and full moon, and the gaucho lament plucked softly on a guitar. These romantic the guests at the many hotels in the region. flatlands have created their own spirit and folklore visible today in the CAXAMBÚ dances, songs, and traditional dress of the region. There are the old mis- sion cities, now in splendid ruin, built by the Jesuits in the 1600s. There HOTELS. This popular mineral resort is located just across the border in Minas 590 is the rich grape-growing area where the best wines in Brazil are produced. Gerais. Recommended hotels are: Gloria, Moderate, Rua Camilo Soares And there are vast cattle ranches, source of the succulent beef that has (341-1233); Palace, Moderate, Rua Dr. Viotti 567 (341-1044); Grande, Inexpen- made the gaucho barbecue-the churrasco-a synonym for mouth- sive, Rua Dr. Viotti 438 (341-1099). All with meals included. watering steaks and sausages throughout Brazil. While its tentacles stretch into Paraná and Santa Catarina, the color, Isabel. Chacara Rosalan, Chacara das Ucas, São Tome das Letras, Corcovado WHAT TO SEE. Recommended side trips to Parque das Aguias, Colina de Santa the legend, the clothes, and the individualism of gaucho country are more closely associated with Rio Grande do Sul. In neighboring Santa Catarina Morro de Caxambú. the accent is on beaches and sauerkraut in a state known for its German influence and the beauty of its coastline. Paraná, third state in the region, POÇOS DE CALDAS is home to perhaps Brazil's most spectacular natural wonder, the magnifi- sites HOTELS. One of the best known hot springs in Latin America, Poços Moder- is also cent Iguaçu Falls. in the state of Minas Gerais. It boasts 37 hotels but try to get into the Palace, with meals, Praça Pedro Sanches (721-3392). Built by the state intestinal government, dis- RIO GRANDE DO SUL ate, it has up-to-date facilities for the treatment of rheumatism, skin and eases. Also the Minas Gerais, Inexpensive, Rua Pernambuco 615 (721-8686). The thriving state capital of Pôrto Alegre, home to 1,300,000 Brazilians, will surprise you. One of the most up-to-date and fastest growing cities WHAT TO SEE. In the vicinity suggested side trips are to Cascata das Antas, south of São Paulo, it has modern buildings, amiable people, and well- Veu de Noiva, Fonte dos Amores, and Morro de São Domingos. stocked shops. Lying as it does at the junction of five rivers, it has become an important shipping port, and much of the state's leather, canned beef, SÃO LOURENÇO and rice are shipped from here to destinations as far away as Africa and HOTELS. A third well-known Minas Gerais mineral water city. Recommended Japan. The Lagoa dos Patos on which the city nestles is the largest fresh- hotels are: Primus, Moderate, with meals, Rua Coronel Jose Justino 681 water lagoon in South America. 230 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 231 Probably the best beef in all Brazil is served in Pôrto Alegre. In most churra- growth of new hotels. Most are medium-sized to small and several offer chalets. scarias, you slice your own steak off the sizzling skewer, and eat it with a salad All of the best hotels have excellent views from the rooms. The best hotels are: Laje of lettuce, tomatoes, and hearts of palm-washing it all down with an inexpensive de Pedra in Canela, Expensive, the largest and most luxurious of the hotels in the mug (caneca) of vinho verde. Start with a linguiça (grilled sausage), then move on two cities, Av. Presidente Kennedy (282-1530); Serrano Gramado, Expensive, Av. to filet, picanha, or lombo de porco (pork loin). Presidente Costa e Silva 1112 (286-1332); Ritta Hoppner, Moderate, Gramado, There are just too many good spots with this mouth-watering specialty grilling Rua Pedro Candiago 305 (286-1334); Hotel das Hortensias, Moderate, Gramado, over smoldering charcoal to list all, but start with the Capitão Rodrigo (considered Rua Bela Vista 83 (286-1057); Gramado Palace Hotel, Moderate, Rua D'Artagnon the city's best, Moderate) in the Plaza São Rafael Hotel, Rua Alberto Bins 514 de Oliveira 237 (286-2021); Grande Hotel, Moderate, Canela, Rua Getulio Vargas (21-6100). Next try the always good Mosqueteiro, Moderate, near the Olimpico 300 (282-1285); Canto Verde, Inexpensive, Gramado, Av. Coronel Diniz 5660 Stadium, Av. Dr. Carlos Barbosa (23-2833). Other top steak houses are the Quero- (286-1961); Alpestre Hotel, Inexpensive, Gramado, Rua Leopoldo Rosenfeld 47 Quero, Moderate, Praca Otavio Rocha, 49 (26-1697), and the Santa Teresa, Moder- (286-1311); Alpes Verdes, Inexpensive, Canela, Villa Alpes Verdes (282-1162). ate, Av. Assis Brasil, 2750 (41-2251). Etruria, Moderate, Rua Santo Antonio 421 (21-9132). Regional specialties with RESTAURANTS. The mountain air will whet your appetite, which is just as folkdance show at Recanto do Seu Flor, Moderate, Av. Getúlio Vargas 1700 well since the two cities have several excellent restaurants specializing in interna- (33-6512). French and International cuisina, with live music, at Le Bon Gourmet, tional, Swiss, and Italian cuisine as well as the ever present churrascarias. Saint Expensive, Av. Alberto Bins 514 (21-6100). German at the Floresta Negra, Moder- Hubertus, Expensive, Swiss cuisine, Gramado, Rua da Carriere 974 (286-1273); ate, Av. 24 de Outubro 905 (22-7584). Panoramico in the Hotel Laje de Pedra, Expensive, Parque Laje de Pedra, Canela (282-1530), international cuisine; Le Petit Clos, Expensive, Swiss, Rua Demétrio MUSIC AND DANCE. Performances of the traditional dances and folk songs Pereira dos Santos 599, Gramado (286-1936); Bella Italia, Moderate, Italian, Av. of Rio Grande do Sul may be seen at the Teatro de Camara, Praça de Republica Borges de Medeiros 2879, Gramado (286-1207); Cantina d'Italia, Moderate, Ital- 575, every Mon. evening at 9 or at the Centro de Tradiçoes Gauchas, Av. Ipiranga ian, Av. Borges de Medieros 543, Gramado (286-1600); Steinhaus, Moderate, steak 5200, Fri. at 8:30 P.M. house, Av. Coronel Diniz 707, Gramado (286-1252); Bela Vista, Moderate, steak house, Av. Coronel Diniz 3964, Gramado (286-1359). CAXIAS DO SUL WHAT TO SEE. The natural attractions of Gramado and Canela are the most HOW TO GET THERE. By plane, bus, or rental car from Porto Alegre, 80 miles compelling sights of the region, although if you happen to be in town in March don't miss the Brazilian Film Festival. English-language films are also shown dur- to the south. ing the festival, but even if the films don't impress you, you'll love the parties. Make HOTELS. Good hotels are: Alfred Palace, Moderate, Rua Sinimbu 2302 hotel reservations well in advance as the cities fill up for the festival. Gramado also (221-8655); the older Alfred, Moderate, next door at 2266 (221-2111); Samuara, offers a classical music festival in July. Hiking paths are plentiful here and horses Moderate, 12 miles from downtown on the Parque do Lago (221-7733); Alfred Vol- can also be rented. Ask at your hotel for directions on how to get to the many beauti- piano, Moderate, Rua Ernesto Alves 1462 (221-4744); Cosmos, Moderate, Rua 20 ful viewpoints in the area overlooking canyons and waterfalls. de Setembro 1563 (221-4688); Italia, Inexpensive, Av. Julio Castilhos 3076 (221-1979). SANTO ANGELO RESTAURANTS. Don Jon, Moderate, in the Alfred Palace Hotel, Rua Sinimbu HOW TO GET THERE. By car or bus from Pôrto Alegre, a 250-mile trip. By 2302 (221-8655), international cuisine; Alvorada, Moderate, Rua Os 18 do Forte plane from Pôrto Alegre. 200 (222-4637), Italian restaurant; Fogo de Chão, Moderate, Rua Os 18 do Forte 511 (222-4563), churrascaria barbecue with show. HOTELS. Unfortunately there is not much to choose from. All hotels are mod- est. Best bets are: Avenida II, Inexpensive, Av. Venâncio Aires 1671 (312-3011); WHAT TO SEE. This is the capital of the wine country with a strong Italian Maerkli, Inexpensive, Av. Brasil 1000 (312-2127); Santo Angelo Turis, Inexpensive, influence. Some of the wineries have tasting tours. Every three years in February Rua Antonio Manoel 726 (312-4055). and March the city is host to the Grape Festival, the largest promotional event for Brazil's wine producers. WHAT TO SEE. Santo Angelo is the jumping off point for the mission region. The most interesting and best preserved of the mission ruins is São Miguel, 30 min- NOVA PETROPOLIS utes from Santo Angelo. A light and sound show at the ruins gives the history of the mission and the region. HOW TO GET THERE. By bus or rental car, the city is located 60 miles from Pôrto Alegre and 25 miles from Caxias do Sul. PARANA AND SANTA CATARINA HOTELS. The city has three main hotels, all small and all with excellent views of the countryside: Recanto Suiço, Moderate, Av. 15 de Novembro 2195 (281-1229); Veraneio dos Pinheiros, Moderate, RS-235; Veraneio Schoeller, Inex- Iguaçu Falls pensive, RS-235 (281-1229). Paraná is home to one of Brazil's most unforgettable sights, the Iguaçu Falls. Eleanor Roosevelt remarked that: "Iguaçu Falls make Niagara look GRAMADO AND CANELA like a kitchen faucet." The water comes from some 30 rivers and streams from the interior of Paraná, and as it rushes toward the 200-foot precipice, HOW TO GET THERE. By bus or rental car. The two cities are located 80 miles it foams and carries huge trees it has uprooted. The volume of roaring, from Porto Alegre and 40 miles from Caxias do Sul. earth-shaking water has been estimated at 62,000 cubic feet per second. HOTELS. The growing fame of these cities as a tourist center plus the publicity During the flood months of May to July the water plunges over at 450,000 given to the Brazilian Film Festival held each year in Gramado has led to a rapid cubic feet per second. SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 233 232 Brazilians and Argentines have each made national parks on their side of the falls and views from both countries are spectacular and different. CURITIBA Your hotel will take care of transportation to the Argentine side and all the necessary customs paperwork. You will be impressed by the Devil's PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR PARANÁ AND SANTA CATARINA Throat Falls, which must be seen by taking a highly adventurous outboard For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." trip across the rapid currents to a trembling but secure little island. Don't wear your good clothes. The spray of this breathtaking portion of the fall HOW TO GET THERE. By air. Daily flights from São Paulo and Rio via Vasp, is thrust 500 feet into the air. Varig-Cruzeiro, and Transbrasil. By bus. Served by major bus lines from all of the On the road to Iguaçu from Curitiba, capital of Paraná, is Vila Velha, country's large cities. a unique region of unusual rock formations carved by wind and water over HOTELS. Numerous fine hotels here include the newly opened Hotel Bourbon millions of years. & Tower, Expensive, Rua Candido Lopes 102 (223-0966); the Iguaçu Campestre, Expensive, on the BR-116 Highway (262-5313); Slaviero Palace, Moderate, Rua Sen. Alencar Guimarães 50 (222-8722); Mabu, Moderate, Praça Santos Andrade Curitiba 830 (222-7040); Caravelle Palace, Moderate, Rua Cruz Machado 282 (223-4323); Deville Colonial, Moderate, Rua Com. Araujo 99, downtown (222-4777); Araucar- ia Palace, Moderate, Rua Amintas de Barros, downtown (224-2822); Guaira Pal- Curitiba is a busy city of one million inhabitants standing some 3,000 ace, Moderate, Praça Rui Barbosa 537 (232-9911); Ouro Verde, Moderate, Rua feet above sea level on the plateau of Serra do Mar. For over a century, Dr. Murici 419 (224-1633); Tibagi, Moderate, Rua Candido Lopes 318 (223-3141); its bracing climate and picturesque location have attracted immigrants of Tourist Universo, Moderate, Praça Osorio 63 (223-5816); the San Martin, Moder- Slav, German and Italian origin, who have imparted a few European char- ate, Rua Joao Negrao near Rua XV de Novembro (222-5211). acteristics to its buildings and surroundings. Formerly best known as the RESTAURANTS. You will find good food in the dining rooms of the better ho- center of the hervamate industry, it has now acquired much greater impor- tels and at the following restaurants (all are moderate in price, with the exception tance as the capital of a flourishing and progressive state that derives its of the steak houses and Italian restaurants, which are inexpensive): For churrasco economic prosperity from extensive coffee plantations in the north and (steak)-Pinheirao Campestre, Rua Vitor do Amaral 1010 (262-3711). German vast timber forests in the southwest, as well as fertile areas that produce foods-Schwarzwald, Moderate, Rua Claudino dos Santos 63 (223-2585). French abundant crops of cereals and other foodstuffs. In addition to being the and international dishes-Ile de France, Praça 19 de Dezembro 538 (223-9962). capital of the State of Paraná, it is the headquarters of the Fifth Military Italian-Bologna, Rua C. Carvalho 150 (223-7102). Also numerous fine restau- Region and therefore the residence of many officers and their families, and rants in the Santa Felicidade area, such as the Italian restaurants Madalosso there are barracks for infantry and artillery regiments. There is also a mod- (272-1014) and Veneza (272-1673) and the steak house Churrascaria Colonia (223-6522). ern and well-equipped military air base. The University of Paraná attracts thousands of students from all over the states of Paraná and Santa Catari- WHAT TO SEE. Places of interest include: the Coronel David Carneiro Muse- na as well as from more distant states of the union. um, with a unique collection of objects of historical interest and the Graciosa Coun- Along the coastline of Paraná are several historical cities from colonial try Club. Also noteworthy are the modern buildings, especially the Civic Center, times, the most interesting of which is Paranagua, founded in 1648 and which houses in one homogenous group the Governor's Palace, State Secretariats, House of Assembly, Treasury, Law Courts, etc. There are two modern theaters today one of Brazil's most important ports. A three-hour train ride from (one for plays and revues, one for concerts and ballet) and a library in the center Curitiba down the coastal mountains to Paranagua is one of the more spec- of the town. tacular journeys in Brazil, with breathtaking views of the coast and moun- tains at virtually every curve. IGUAÇU FALLS HOW TO GET THERE. Most tourists arrive by plane from, Rio or São Paulo at the Iguaçu airport. There is, however, a land connection also on a paved highway from Curitiba with frequent buses. Cities of Santa Catarina HOTELS. Absolutely tops, even from the international tourist's point of view, is the Varig Airlines-owned Hotel das Cataratas, Moderate. The food is good and In Santa Catarina the accent is decidedly German, with graphic exam- there are guides to take you to the falls. It's best to make a reservation with a Rio ples of German influence, especially in the architecture and food, found or São Paulo travel agent or call ahead for rooms (74-2666). Other good hotels in the cities of Joinville and Blumenau. Blumenau is located in a valley are the Salvati, Moderate, Rua Rio Branco 577 (74-2727), in town, and, out of town reminiscent of the Rhine region of Germany and has recently carried this headed toward the falls on the Cataratas Highway, the Bourbon, Expensive, association one step further with an Oktoberfest. The state's coastline has (74-1313); International Foz, Expensive (73-4240); the Carima, Moderate the finest beaches in southern Brazil, a fact that is now attracting the resi- (74-3377); San Martin, Moderate, (74-3030); and Panorama, Moderate (74-1200). dents of São Paulo to the beaches of Santa Catarina. Laguna, a colonial city founded in 1676, in addition to its picturesque narrow streets and colo- FLORIANOPOLIS nial architecture, also has the south's best beach resort hotel, the Laguna HOW TO GET THERE. The state capital of Santa Catarina can be reached by Tourist Hotel. air from all of Brazil's major cities as well as by bus. Appropriately, for a state known for its beaches, the capital of Santa Catarina, Florianopolis, is an island city with fine beaches on the ocean- HOTELS. The best hotels are: Jurere Praia, Super Deluxe, 63 beach houses for rent with minimal rental period of one week (66-0108); Maria do Mar, Expensive, side. SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 234 235 Rodovia Virgilio Varzea (33-3009), on the beach; Diplomata, Expensive, Av. Dr. There is nothing outdated about Brasilia. In fact, everything there, ar- Paulo Fontes 800 (23-4455), tennis courts; Florianopolis Palace, Expensive, Rua chitecturally, is far in advance of its time. Like something out of Buck Artista Bittencourt 2 (22-9633); Querencia, Moderate, Rua Jeronimo Coelho Rogers, the city's administrative buildings spread out along the ground, (22-2677); Faial Palace, Moderate, Rua Felipe Schmidt 87, downtown (23-2766). coil around, then leap up in a shaft of marble to capture the rays of the sun. Located on an island with many fine beaches, Florianopolis is a popular spot for camping. Permits are not needed. It was a city "they" said couldn't be done, but others, more dedicated and more determined, went ahead and did it. With a rare thrust of Brazil- RESTAURANTS. Fragata, Moderate, seafood, Rua Henrique Veras, (32-0366); ian energy, a city rose in just three years, in the very spot where once the Manolo's, Moderate, international cuisine, Rua Hercúlio Luz 58 (22-4351); Atali- jaguar roared. ba, Moderate, steak house, Rua Jau Guedes da Fonseca (44-2364). No trip to this magnificent and confusing country is complete without BLUMENAU a visit to this city. It's not quite the same as visiting Italy and not seeing Rome-but almost. HOW TO GET THERE. A modern prosperous city of 150,000, Blumenau is Yet all around this spanking new wonderland of modernity nestles the served by Varig and Cruzeiro airlines. The best way to reach the city, however, is old Brazil-the land of coffee beans and beef cattle, of palm trees and slug- by bus from São Paulo. While the highway is not the best in Brazil, it passes through gish rivers, of shoeless peasants and Indians. both Blumenau and Joinville, giving you a good look at the German origins of this While it would be unfair to say that the area neighboring the new capital region, visible in the homes as well as the features of the residents, many of whom hasn't progressed with the city, it is a gross exaggeration to say that it are blue-eyed blondes. has greatly changed. Belo Horizonte, the most important interior city after HOTELS. Plaza Hering, Moderate, Rua 7 de Setembro 818, (22-1277); Grande São Paulo, has taken advantage of the geographical fact that almost every- Hotel Blumenau, Moderate, Alameda Rio Branco 21 (22-0366); Garden Terrace, one and everything traveling by highway to the new capital passes through Moderate, Rua Padre Jacobs 45 (22-0145). it. But it was a bustling and prosperous town before Brasilia, as its steel mills and hundreds of factories attest. Goiania, a vibrating little town that RESTAURANTS. In German country there is nothing better than hearty Ger- has sprung up in the past half century, was doing all right before Brasilia man cuisine. Among the best are: Frohsinn, Moderate, Morro do Aipim, on top was even thought of. But it, too, has managed to cash in on the boom. of a hill with a view of the city and surroundings (22-2137); Moinho do Vale, Mod- One city in the Belo Horizonte area but far enough away from any na- erate, Rua Paraguai 66, along the river that flows through the city (22-3337); Cav- alinho Branco, Moderate, Alameda Rio Branco 165 (22-4300). The city also has tional progress not to be tarnished is Ouro Preto. The sleepy, colonial prize a well respected French restaurant, Le Foyer, Expensive, Rua 7 de Setembro 1415 still rings with the sound of hooves on its cobblestone streets, the sound (22-9114). of Latin chants coming from its thick walled churches, and the sad plain- tive notes of a lover's guitar being strummed beneath a balcony. The city JOINVILLE at one time (the 1700s) was a bustling capital state with gold, silver, dia- monds, and slaves. But hemmed in by tall, almost impassable mountains, HOTELS. Like Blumenau a city with a strong tie to Germany, Joinville's top it slowly strangled in the commercial competition of the 20th century. In hotels are: Tannenhof, Moderate, Rua Visconde de Taunay 340 (22-2311); Anthuri- 1897, it lost its status as capital city of Minas Gerais, and Belo Horizonte um Parque, Inexpensive, Rua São Jose 226 (22-6299); Joinville Tourist, Inexpen- came into prominence instead. Preserved by the National Patrimony, it sive, Rua 7 de Setembro 40 (22-1288). stands as a proud reminder of the glory that was once Imperial Brazil. RESTAURANTS. For German food, try the Tante Frida, Moderate, Rua Vis- Aleijadinho. Here, too, are many works by Brazil's greatest colonial artist, the sculptor conde de Taunay 1174 (22-0558); Bierkeller, Moderate, Rua 15 de Novembro 497 (22-1360); Bavaria, Inexpensive, BR-101 Norte, Km 28 (24-1077). BRASILIA LAGUNA Brazil has had three capitals-Salvador, Rio de Janeiro, and, since HOW TO GET THERE. The state's top beach resort is reached by bus or car 1960, the new city of Brasilia. The reason for the move from Salvador to on a highway from Florianopolis 75 miles away. Rio was that the Portuguese court wanted to be near the center of all the HOTELS. The Laguna Tourist Hotel, Deluxe, is tops in the region and highly mining and exporting activity. The reason for the move from Rio to Brasi- popular with international tourists, on the beach, Praia do Gi (44-0022). Make res- lia was that the nation had stagnated for too long along the coast and offi- ervations well in advance. Other fine hotels are: Itapiruba, Moderate, on the beach, cials wanted to waken the center of this sleeping giant. Praia de Itapiruba, BR-101 (44-0294); Lagoa, Moderate, Trevo BR-101 Sul It was not a new idea. As far back as 1808 newspapers were clamoring (44-0844). The city also has several fine camping areas. that Rio was not an adequate place for a capital and were proposing the construction of a city in the interior, where communications could be made with the rest of the country: "Our present capital is in a corner of CENTRAL-SOUTH BRAZIL Brazil and contacts between it and Pará or other far removed states is ex- tremely difficult. Besides, Rio subjects the government to enemy invasion To visit Brasilia, Brazil's capital, is more than a step into the future, by any maritime power." In 1892, Congress authorized a special expedi- it's a headlong leap into the 21st century. Rising amidst the scrawny jungle tion to go into the backlands and study the terrain in the center of the of the high red earth plateau, stands one of the most unusual, most strik- nation where "a city could be constructed next to headwaters of big rivers ingly different, most beautiful cities in the world. and where roads could be opened to all seaports." After a three-month SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 237 236 overland trip, the expedition leaders decided on the planalto area of Goias. Kubitschek had set the date for the inauguration of the city for April They turned in their report and nothing was done with it. 21, 1960, and in spite of all odds it was ready. The inauguration itself was It was not until 1956, when a sharp politician named Juscelino Kubits- a memorable day that began with a Mass in the uncompleted cathedral chek was elected president of Brazil, that the idea became a reality. He and ended with a fireworks display, during which the name Juscelino Ku- needed a campaign platform when he was running for President, and one bitschek burned in letters 15 feet tall. night at a rally someone shouted to him about building a new capital. Im- For all of the troubles and haste that Brasilia generated, it is today a mediately he took up the idea as his own and, as soon as he was installed modern, comfortable, functioning capital city. It offers many things of in- as President, he set the wheels in motion. terest to the visitor aside from its architecture and feeling of unreality. It It was a monumental undertaking, one without equal in the modern has already started to do what those journalists of 1808 wanted. The area world. What had to be done was to build a totally new city that would around the capital is being opened and a new era of pioneering and coloni- become the center of government for the biggest nation in Latin Ameri- zation has started. There are roads (the Brazilians call them highways) ca-with all the conveniences of light, power, telephones, sewage, housing, that stretch outward from the new capital to far off Acre, and upward streets, police protection, fire protection, schools, hospitals, banks, indus- to the coastal city of Belém, and others under construction will go to For- taleza and Salvador, Bahia. All along these roads, families are coming in, try, commerce, ministries, churches, theaters, as well as all the necessary clearing the land, and raising their children. Little communities are form- buildings needed by the Congress, Supreme Court, and the President to ing, and the poor of the big cities are finding out how much nicer life can govern the country. be in the country than in a cramped favela slum. It will be a long time In the very beginning there was nothing there but scrub trees, red dust, before the city really "works" or the interior of the country is really set- and wild jaguars. President Kubitschek flew there, had Mass said, stayed tled-maybe another hundred years-but there is no doubt that Brasilia the night, and set up a long list of work committees. Money came from has kicked off the much-needed social improvement. all over the world in the form of loans and government grants. The Brazil- In spite of its world fame and the fact that it is the capital of South ians pushed the button on their printing presses and turned out billions America's largest nation, Brasilia is still a moderate-sized city, with a pop- of cruzeiros that inflated their economy as never before. ulation of one million. Tourists can see it all in one day, if pressed for time, Very few of the raw materials needed for such a grandiose enterprise or two days if they are interested in the various architectural wonders or could be obtained in Brasilia and had to be contracted from outsiders. Air- in studying more closely the mode of life of a group of people who have planes flew in continually from Rio and São Paulo, loaded with steel bars been recently uprooted from their original environment. and bags of cement. The roads to the new capital were still under construc- Most visitors to Brasilia take an early plane from Rio-there are flights tion, so all this heavy equipment had to be brought in by air. from 6:30 A.M. onward-land in Brasilia before noon, take a sightseeing Literally thousands of unskilled, uneducated workers, who needed tour around the main buildings, and have lunch at one of the two good money and were willing to face any hardship to get it, came from the hotels; in the afternoon they continue their tour, this time visiting the old northeast of the nation. They learned fast and worked hard. Living in "free city," and are delivered to the airport in time to catch a flight back wooden shacks and working as much as 15 hours a day, they built Kubits- to Rio and dinner. chek's dream city. There is one treat that the linger-awhile type of tourist gets that the one- Back in Rio, opposition to the new capital was loud and heated. Debates dayer doesn't. That is to see the city illuminated at night. There is probably in the senate turned into fistfights, and investigating committees were no lovelier urban sight in all Brazil than the federal buildings, all white sites formed to see where all the money was going. Very few people wanted marble with reflecting glass windows, shimmering under dozens of huge, to move to Brasilia and they complained bitterly about the "lack of every- superbly placed spotlights, while the stars shine brightly out of a jungle thing" there. They said their children would not have the proper schools, sky of black velvet. As one old peasant woman told her daughter after that they would be unable to pay the high prices that the artificial city she made the trip to the new capital in the back of an open truck: "It was commanding, and that they would be separated from their families looked like I always expected Heaven to look at night. It was difficult to story and friends. Actually, most of the big politicians were unhappy about tell where the building lights ended and the stars began. They seemed to being away from the beach and afraid that their investments in Rio apart- be put there to show off the other." ment buildings and commercial shops would suffer once the city ceased Another thing you'll notice about Brasilia is the sky. It is bluer than to be the nation's capital. Kubitschek's government countered this with the sky in Rio and turns purple. There are always fleecy cloud formations special inducements to civil servants of a 100 percent increase in salary decorating it. Another noticeable item is the red earth of the city. Not un- for working in Brasilia, special tax considerations, and an earlier retire- like the red soil of Georgia, it has stained the bases of the buildings, has ment age. He also promised free transportation of government workers tinted the carefully planted grass, and, in a sudden gust of wind, is just and their household effects, commissioned furniture factories to manufac- as liable to coat your face and clothes with a fine red powder. The earth ture modern styles to be sold to workers at wholesale costs, and put rentals is very poor in minerals; artistically, it looks as if it had been placed there on new houses and apartments at ridiculously low rates. on purpose for contrast. "Freetown," where most of the construction workers lived, had grown Those with only one day to spend should be able to cover the most im- into a city of over 100,000. It was a rough, sprawling, dirty, vice-ridden portant points of the city by using this itinerary. place, where anything went as long as there was money to buy it. It was Leaving the airport, take a taxi (if you prefer to drive yourself, there straight out of Hollywood. There were wooden store facades with false are rental cars available at the airport, too) and watch for the white arrow- second stories. Instead of horses, men parked their jeeps in front of the shaped signs saying "cidade" (city). If you turn right, take a dip curve, 101 bars. Two movie houses did a roaring business. and come up again to where the sign says "Eixo Rodoviario," you will SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 241 240 be on the main avenue of the south wing of the city. Along this avenue just across the ramp on the upper level. If either of the houses are in ses- the luxury apartments are built, and since all rooms have huge plate glass sion, the Brazilian flag is flying from either of their flagpoles. windows onto the street, the Brazilians refer to them as "the Candango's Continuing down past the two houses of congress, you'll see the small television." The workers do spend a great deal of time looking up into but perfectly balanced Supreme Court on your right with a modern statue the windows of the senators and ministers who live there. It's cheaper than of Blind Justice in front. Further along, you'll come to a plump, oblong the movies and much more eventful! The area through here has been it is the Brasilia Museum. cement box, with a huge head of Juscelino Kubitschek in its courtyard; planned into Super Blocks (Super Quadras) and each block was designed to be a complete unit in itself. There are high-class apartments in front, Directly facing the Supreme Court is probably one of the most beautiful then middle-income apartment buildings in the rear. Each Super Block of all the buildings, the Planalto Palace, where the president has his offices. has its own shopping area, complete with supermarket and barber shops, Guided tours can be arranged. Be sure to see the luxurious Hall of Mirrors, etc., as well as a Catholic chapel. There is also a primary school for almost where state receptions are held, the severe but lovely room to the right where the President holds open conferences, and the sun-illuminated inte- every Super Block, so that school-age children do not have to cross streets in profusion. rior corridors on the second and third floors, where tropical plants grow coming or going to class. Brasilia, if you glance at a map, is built in the form of an airplane, a Head east now, toward the lake, past what seems to be miles of modern fitting symbol for a city in this space-minded age. The two "wings" are tail lamp posts, until you come to the exclusive Alvorada Palace, official presi- for commercial and residential areas. The fuselage, from propeller to dent's residence, at the "propeller" of the airplane. This was the first ad- blades, is for government, communications, and transportation centers. ministrative building ready and the most expensive. Every inch of cement, The city highways are so designed that there are almost no red lights or all the steel girders, the pipes, the glass, tiles, everything had to be flown traffic signs. City planner Lucio Costa's wife was killed in an automobile in, because there was no way to reach Brasilia by land. Beside this jewellike accident and he vowed that he would make Brasilia as "accident free as Mass. palace is a small circular chapel, where the presidential family attends possible," which it is. that directs you to a Super Quadra and explore the internal workings of As you go down this residential highway, turn off beneath another sign The long, low, burned-out building nearby is the Brasilia Palace Hotel, gutted in a fire in 1979. community life there. Then, heading in the same direction, you'll come After lunch, you will still have some three hours to see the other less out onto Avenida W3, the commercial main street of the capital. Here important things or to go back for a closer look at what you saw that morn- you'll find the shops, both chic and mundane, the good restaurants, a ing. You could visit the handsome national theater, a pyramid of weath- movie house, the banks, the telephone company, and the post office. ered concrete near the bus station, head off in the same direction for the After heading south on W3, turn around and go to the far north and, Yacht Club (where you get an interesting side view of the Three Powers turning right onto the main highway by the Hotel Imperial, follow the Square), or continue way out on the as yet almost deserted North wing directional arrows that will take you in front of Hotel Nacional, down a and arrive at the other side of the lake, where many expensive homes have ramp under the monumental bus station (with music, shops, and perhaps been built or are going up. some visiting Indians riding up and down the escalators), then make an- For a sharp contrast of a "satellite city" to modern Brasilia-from the other right turn and you'll be on the Three Powers Square. "architecture" of a dust town to the year 2,000-take a 20-minute drive The first building of importance you'll pass is the national Cathedral, beyond city limits to one of the communities settled by the Brazilian build- sights with clasped fingers of concrete reaching to the sky. Worshippers go in site the Hotel Nacional. ers. You may want to hire one of a group of American guides, right oppo- underground and come out to hear Mass in the center under the fingers, hotel protected from the elements by huge panes of glass. Check with your If you will have an hour or so before your plane, take a quick look at to see if there is a Mass on the Sunday or holiday you're visiting. the wild-west, clapboard satellite town called Free City. Though the bulk Besides the Cathedral, on both sides of the square, like huge glass-plated of Brasilia's working class now lives far out in the satellite towns of Gama dominoes, are the 18 various government ministries. Functional, but with or Taguatinga, the Cidade Livre (Free Town) still stands as a monument a tendency to absorb the hot sun's rays, they take the place of literally to those hardy northeasterners who built the 21st-century capital city. hundreds of offices scattered around Rio when that city was the capital. Beyond the last building on the right is what many people claim to be PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR BRASILIA the most beautiful building in Brasilia, if not in all Brazil-the Ministry WHEN TO GO. The best time is probably the summer, from Nov. to around of Foreign Relations (Palácio dos Arcos on the map, "Itamaraty" to all its the middle of Apr. It gets chilly in Brasilia. Because the city is on a high plateau, residents), with its water garden and soaring concrete arches. Despite some 3,500 feet above sea level, and in the direct path of winds from the moist warm extravagance-those arches support nothing but themselves-it's a must jungles as well as those from the colder south, its climate is variable and invigorat- for the amateur photographer. ing. Sweaters at night during the winter months are almost a necessity, and no mat- Across the way, almost floating on air and the shallow reflection pools, ter what the season, you'll probably want to sleep under a blanket. is the magnificent Congress building with its twin, 28-story towers where senators and deputies have their offices. The two orange halves, sitting on HOW TO GET THERE. There are daily flights from Rio, São Paulo, and Belo each side of the towers, are the Senate Chamber and the House of Depu- Horizonte. Buses also travel the roads connecting these cities with the nation's capi- tal on a daily basis. ties. The Senate is the smaller, inverted one. It is completely air condi- tioned and perfectly illuminated within. The building can be visited desk but HOW TO GET AROUND. Take a taxi. Many people prefer to have a guided permission must be obtained from the blue-uniformed guard at the tour by one of the registered agencies. If you only have time for a once-around- SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 243 242 lightly view of the city, then Ciclone-Hinterland Turismo at the Setor Commercial of the way the highways and by-passes have been laid out. Also study the faces Sul, or Trips, Toscano, Excelsior, or Presmic, all located in the arcade of the Hotel of the "candangos," the dusty but courteous immigrant workers who built the city Nacional, will give you the best service. They have their own cars, usually Brazilian- with almost nothing but bare hands and determination. made Volkswagen "Kombi" station wagons, and their drivers speak English as well as half a dozen other languages. Prices are moderate but a little higher than in Rio SPORTS. In Brasilia, there used to be such an exodus of governmental workers, for the same service, about $15. especially such important types as congressmen and ministry directors, that week- You might, just for the fun of it, get on any of the buses that leave from the end activities were limited. But the city is now developing a social life of its own, street level platform at the centrally located Highway Terminal ("Estaçao Rodov- even on weekends. The one favorite focal point is the yacht club, on the artificially iaria") and stay on it till it takes you back to the terminal again. No matter which created Lake Pinheiro. Although open only to members, your travel agent or almost line you take, you'll get odd and interesting angles of the city that other tourists any Brazilian citizen can get you in. There is a nice big pool, a small but more than don't catch from the guided tour. But it's best to do this after you've seen Brasilia adequate restaurant, and if you look sad, and wistful, some friendly Brazilian is the regular way, so you can appreciate what you are seeing even more. Bus fares bound to ask you if you'd like to take a ride on the lake in his "yacht." There are about ten other good social clubs that have also sprouted up-all normally crowded are about 10 cents. and lively on sunny weekends. HOTELS. (For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips.") People do go fishing some as far away as on Bananal Island in the surrounding Unfortunately, young Brasilia has never had a top-quality hotel. However, the Hil- state of Goias. Check with your tourist agent in Brasilia about this and see if they ton chain is now building a hotel, and a Sheraton and an Inter-Continental are in can arrange a two-day trip to the Carajá Indians, who will act as your guides. There the planning stages. In the meantime, the best remains the Nacional, Moderate, is a hotel there; it was called the Juscelino Kubitschek until the latter's political. Setor Hoteleiro Sul (226-8180), situated in the heart of the city with an incompara- disgrace, whereupon it became John Kennedy. Don't go there without a reserva- ble view of the Congress, Ministries, and the banking section. Ten floors of comfort- tion. Andre Safari & Tours, in the Torre Palace Hotel, specializes in this trip. able apartments. Off the spacious lobby is an excellent restaurant where one of the daily specialties is a long smorgasbord table with 100 different dishes to choose MINAS GERAIS-BELO HORIZONTE AND from. The wine cellar is excellent and the European-trained chefs add a Continental THE HISTORICAL CITIES touch. There is a small bar done in beautiful jacaranda wood paneling, and a pool. The basement is equipped with a modern Finnish-style sauna as well as steam baths and massage parlors. For evening entertainment, one of the best nightclubs in town The third largest city of Brazil with a population of 1.7 million, Belo is on the ground floor, alongside a patio churrascaria. There is also a H. Stern store. Horizonte is an airy modern metropolis nestled into the mountains of Other good hotels are the Garvey Park, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Minas Gerais, source of much of Brazil's vast mineral wealth. Although Quadra 2, Bloco J (223-9800); Carlton, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 5, the city is relatively young, celebrating its 90th anniversary in 1987, it is Bloco G (224-8819); Eron Brasilia, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Quadra 5, the jumping off point for the fabled historical cities of Minas, colonial-era Lote A (321-1777); Torre Palace, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Quadra 4, towns that dot the surrounding mountains and offer visitors a first-hand Bloco A (321-5554); Phenicia, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 5, Bloco J look at life in Brazil in the 18th century when the gold fields of this region (321-4342); Aracoara, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Quadra 5, Bloco attracted Portuguese adventurers and Catholic priests, a combination that C (321-9222); Saint Paul, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 2, Lote 5 (321-6688); Bristol, Moderate, Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 4, Bloco F (321-6162). gave birth to the area's famed baroque churches, rich in gold leaf. But before taking off for a look at its historical surroundings, spend RESTAURANTS. Brasilia does have some good restaurants. (For definitions of some time in Belo Horizonte itself. There are many things for the tourist price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips.") For good solid Brazilian beef, done to do. One of them is to stroll along the shady downtown streets and watch "churrasco gaucho" style, pay a visit to the Churrascaria do Lago (223-9266) on the new buildings going up all around. Another is to visit the municipal the banks of the lake, in walking distance of the Hotel Brasilia. Their specialty is park located in the heart of the business area. Town fathers planned well, a "mixto," which is a little bit of everything, both beef and pork, served with rice, for should you become tired of cement and commerce, you can cross over manioc flour, and a special barbecue sauce of raw onions, tomatoes, and vinegar. into the well-kept park, with its tree-lined walks, its small lakes, its rustic Moderately priced. A good spot for international cuisine is the Piantella, Moderate, (224-9408) with bridges, and red flowered bushes. There is something going on there al- live music. In the same commercial center (Comercio Local Sul) is the Florentino, most all the time, and it is a favorite spot for lovers, nursemaids, and pho- Expensive, the favored eatery of the nation's congressmen and where political deals tographers. are always in the works (223-7577). The Centro Commercial Gilberto Salomao has Another interesting place is the Minas Tennis Club, one of the biggest a number of spots. This commercial center, where bureaucrats and diplomats of sports arenas in the state. Extremely modern in design, the gymnasium all levels gather nightly, is home to the Gaf, Expensive, for French food (248-1103), can hold 10,000 people. Its swimming pool is Olympic size and its separate Komatsu, Moderate, Japanese food (248-3020), and the Au Chalet, Expensive, for courts for volleyball, basketball, and tennis have caused favorable com- Swiss (248-2897). ment from many international sports-minded figures. WHAT TO SEE. Everything. The two presidential palaces (the Alvorada where Just as modern, but much more controversial, is the oddly shaped the man in power lives and the Planalto where he works), the twin-towered Con- church at Pampulha, just outside the city. Designed by famed Brasilia gress building at the Praça dos Tres Poderes, the domino-placed Ministry buildings builder Oscar Niemeyer, the church, once constructed, was refused conse- in the same area, the crown-shaped cathedral at the Eixo Monumental, the national cration by Catholic authorities because both Niemeyer and Portinari theater also at the Eixo Monumental, the modern spacious apartments, and the bus- (whose frescoes adorn it) were known Communist sympathizers. The bat- tling-almost small town-atmosphere of the business district. A visit should be the raged for a number of years until the people of Minas put pressures paid to the yacht club and the area known as Embassy Row. A visit to the shrine to bear on the Bishop and the church was blessed. of Dom Bosco is also in order, not just to pay him homage, but to get an over-all, The Tassini Museum has a collection of maps, crystal, lamps, work complete view of the city. There are no museums as yet of any importance, nor the any special collections. The exteriors of the buildings are more interesting than tools, photographs, and general miscellanea collected over a 30-year span interiors (with a few exceptions mentioned already), and don't forget to take note by one Raul Tassini and donated to the city. It is devoted strictly to objects SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 244 245 that figure in the history of Belo Horizonte and the early diamond mining Ask for someone who speaks English to give you a guided tour. Admission days. Well worth a visit, it is open every day except Monday. is free. When you have finished with the sights of Belo Horizonte it will be time Many people stay two days in Ouro Prêto, savoring the winding old for you to travel back into the past of this fascinating region. Most trips streets and the colonial buildings and dodging the donkeys and horses and to the historical cities can be handled on a one-day basis, using Belo as carts that still move among the automobiles. Ever since 1933, when the your starting and ending point. Your first trip should definitely be to Ouro entire city became National Patrimony, not a thing has been changed, and Prêto (Black Gold, so-called because of the black coloring of gold in the it is to the Brazilians' credit that many things have been restored and area caused by iron oxide in the soil). Though still little known outside cleaned up. Tour buses are no longer allowed to transverse the city's nar- & of the country, Ouro Prêto is one of the most unforgettable tourist attrac- row streets, in order to preserve the colonial-period buildings. The buses tions in all of South America. It is revered by Brazilians the way Italians stop outside of the city from where taxis take you into Ouro Prêto. Wheth- revere Venice or the Americans, Williamsburg. Founded in 1711 with the er you spend the night or not, try to stay at least until sundown, when name Vila Rica (Rich Village), it soon became the center of the gold, dia- you will witness the reflection of the sunset off the city's tiled roofs, the mond, and semiprecious stone trading in the colonial era. So much gold gradual darkening of the surrounding hills and mountains, and finally the came from the hills around Ouro Prêto that the area was named simply cool mist that spreads across the city, evoking a sensation of distant times "minas gerais" or "general mines." in Brazil's colonial past. If you decide to remain for a second day, you It became the place to live in those days, and the rich built fine houses might hire a taxi and travel a few miles to the sleepy village of Congonhas. and palaces, donated gold to construct churches, and hired the very best The main attraction there is the church of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, artists to decorate them. One of the most famous names to come out of where Aleijadinho sculpted 12 life-sized statues of the Prophets and placed this period was a crippled mulatto sculptor called Aleijadinho. The man them outside at the front entrance. Andists could do no wrong when he was working with wood or stone, but arthritis These works, breathtaking in their exact details and expressive faces, turned him into a monster. His facial features became so deformed by dis- have been called "a genial mixture of Quasimodo, Beethoven and Michel ease that he put a sack over his head so that no one could be frightened angelo." Aside from a number of statues inside the church, he did the Sta- by his ugliness. His legs refused to coordinate and his fingers and hands tions of the Cross in life-size, using 66 different figures that are housed became so contorted that his assistants used to tie his hammer and chisel in six separate buildings. Rarely visited by the Brazilians themselves, these to his wrists with leather thongs so he could work. What he did with the figures are "finds" for the really discriminating tourist. beauty inside him is in evidence in Ouro Prêto and the surrounding area Aleijadinho, deformed and crippled though he was, got around. His and is part of the rich Brazilian cultural heritage. works can be seen in the churches of the nearby town of Mariana and São João Del-Rei. Baroque lovers should also visit the churches of Sabará. Diamantina took its name from the diamonds that were extracted in The Glorious Churches of Ouro Prêto great quantities from its soil in the 1700s, and even today the mines still The best place to see Aleijadinho's artistry is the Church of São Francis- supply gold, iron ore, and rock crystal. It was here also that the famous sights co, located just down the hill to the left from the Praça Tiradentes. Note Chica da Silva, the mulatto slave who captured the heart of the wealthy the twin towers in an almost salt-and-pepper-shaker form. Be sure and Portuguese mine owner, lived. He showered her with gold and precious inspect the huge soapstone medallion high up over the front door, as well stones, built her a palace with hanging gardens and even transported a as the intricately carved doorway. Inside, the main altar with cherubic sailing yacht overland for her pleasure. Then he turned around and dug faces, garlands of tropical fruits, and allegorical characters is still fresh her a lake to sail it on. with the original paint. Also note the twin soapstone side altars. Just doing The city looks very much like it did in the days of Chica. Be sure to one of them is enough for a man to be hailed as a genius, and he did two note the covered overhanging roofs with their elaborate brackets. for this church alone. His work can also be seen in the impressive Monte do Carmo Church, PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR in whose tall towers hang two bells that weigh 7,000 pounds. The altar BELO HORIZONTE AND THE HISTORICAL CITIES dominating the church of São José was also done by Aleijadinho. There are 11 churches in this one town in the Brazilian hills. If any were HOW TO GET THERE. Like the rest of the country, this area is no exception in Europe, they would be international "musts" on any tourist itinerary, when it comes to distances. Belo Horizonte is 453 miles from Brasilia, 250 miles but hidden away as they are here, they have preserved their charm and from Rio de Janeiro, and 360 miles from São Paulo. Ouro Prêto, the living museum offer a new delight to the tourist with spirit enough to come this far to city, is a full 75 miles away from Belo, but the people in the state capital consider it "a suburb." And Diamantina (another colonial jewel in the Minas hills), is 180 see them. miles away, but citizens in Belo will calmly tell visitors who have nothing to do While in Ouro Prêto, don't fail to take a slow tour of the Museum of for the day, "Why don't you run over and see Diamantina?" Inconfidência. Housed in an impressive baroque building that was started The city of Belo Horizonte is served by all of Brazil's major airlines, and there in 1748 and finished in 1846, it was at one time the home of the Municipal are daily flights between the city and Rio, São Paulo, and Brasilia. Bus service is Congress. It was here that the first Brazilian rebellion against the Portu- also frequent and the roads are good. For trips from Belo to the historical cities, guese was started and here that the first rebel, a white-bearded martyr Rio the best bet is by bus or car. The roads in the region are paved and in good condition. nicknamed "Tiradentes" (tooth puller), was captured, then taken to There is regular train service between Belo Horizonte and Diamatina. Day tours depart from Belo for all of the colonial cities in the region. Taxis will drive you and brutally executed. The museum is full of clothes, children's toys, to Ouro Prêto and back for $45 or so and a regular bus line charges about $4 for slaves' manacles, firearms, books, and gravestones of the turbulent era. the same service. 246 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 247 inns and pensions, some rather primitive in their basic comforts. Note: The historical cities region offers a range of hotels but most are quaint BELO HORIZONTE HOTELS. Brasilton Contagem. Expensive. Contagem industrial district on a hill- OURO PRÉTO top near Belo Horizonte (351-0900). First Hilton Hotel in Brazil outside São Paulo, the Brasilton Contagem opened early in 1978. Rooms are built around central courtyard with pool and tropical gardens, and all have air conditioning, heat, color HOTELS. The best hotel is the Estrada Real, Moderate, located on the highway at the entrance to the city, Rodivia dos Inconfidentes km 87 (551-2122). Like all TV, well-stocked mini-bars. the hotels in Ouro Prêto this one is small, with 30 rooms and 10 chalets. Other Othon Palace. Expensive. Av. Afonso Pena, corner Tupis e Bahia (226-7844). options are Luxor Pousada, Moderate, Rua Dr. Alfredo Baeta 16 (551-2244) Gran- Newest, biggest, and most luxurious in the city, with 317 air-conditioned rooms, de Hotel Ouro Prêto, Moderate, Rua Senador Rocha Lagoa 165 (551-1488); Pouso rooftop pool and bar, international restaurant, coffee shop, sauna, conference facili- sive, Praça Tiradentes 51 (551-3066); Colonial, Inexpensive, Travessa Camilo Velo- Chico Rey, Moderate, Rua Brigadeiro Mosqueira 90 (551-1274); Pilao, Inexpen- ties for 800 persons. Overlooking trees and lakes of Municipal Park. The Amazonas. Moderate. On Avenida Amazonas 120 (201-4644). New and so 26 (551-3133); Toffolo, Inexpensive, Rua Tiradentes 76 (551-1322). small but service is very good. Excellent restaurant on the 11th floor. The best restaurant in town is the Taberna Luxor in the Luxor Pousada. Hotel Del Rey. Moderate. Pça Afonso Arinos 60 (222-2211). One of the best traditional hotels downtown; 270 non-air-conditioned rooms, private baths, 24- DIAMATINA hour room service. Normandy. Moderate. On Rua Tamoios 212 (201-6166). Service is very good; HOTEL. The Tijuco Hotel, Inexpensive, is really the only option in the city. Lo- the rooms large and airy; modern restaurant and bar are fine. Located in the center cated on Rua Macau do Meio 221 (931-1022), it adheres faithfully to the historical of the city's business district, it is one of the most popular meeting places. Insist atmosphere demanded by the visitor. on an outside room. Other hotels include the Wembley Palace. Moderate. Rua Espirito Santo 201, downtown (201-6966); the Serrana Palace. Moderate. Rua Goitacazes 450, down- town (201-9955); and the Financial. Inexpensive. Av. Alfonso Pena 571, downtown (201-7044). CENTRAL-WEST BRAZIL-THE PANTANAL RESTAURANTS. As in most Brazilian cities, new restaurants are constantly opening with an increasingly international flavor. Tops among Belo's international While most visitors to Brazil have heard of the country's beautiful At- eateries is the Tacho de Ouro in the Othon Hotel, Expensive with live piano music, lantic beaches and the jungle attractions of the Amazon rain forest, few Av. Alfonso Penna 1050 (226-7844). Also good is the Nacional Club, Moderate, are aware that Brazil is also home to the last major ecological frontier on Rua Bernardo Mascarenhas 77 (337-9461). But Minas is also rightfully famous for earth. Known as the Pantanal, this 140,000 square mile area covers a re- its own regional cooking, hearty meals perfect for the cool nighttime temperatures gion the size of Holland, Switzerland, and Belgium combined. Once an in this mountainous state. Specialties are suckling pig and sausages but any pork inland ocean in prehistoric times, the Pantanal today is a giant plain with dish in one of Belo Horizonte's finer restaurants is recommended. A true Minas River. Just south of the Amazon watershed, the northern Pantanal is home an average elevation of 400 feet that is cut by the basin of the Paraguay meal is always accompanied by tutu, a delicious black bean mash. One of the state's traditional dishes, a favorite throughout Brazil, is tutu à mineira-sausages, pork and tutu. In Belo, for regional cooking try Petisqueira do Galo, Moderate, Av. Ole- to the headwaters of the rivers that form the Paraguay Basin. In the rainy gário Maciel 1516 (335-5773); Chico Mineiro, Moderate, Rua Alagoas 626 in the season these rivers drain south, forming huge lakes throughout the region sophisticated Savassi neighborhood, home to the city's newest and liveliest night with only a few areas left above the level of the waters where the Pantanal's spots (273-4659); Arroz com Feijao, Moderate, Rua Antonio de Albuquerque 440, wildlife escapes from the floods. In the dry season, the water level subsides also in Savassi (221-1266); and Nini e Familia, Moderate, Av. Cristóvão Colombo and the Pantanal's incredible variety of wildlife moves out to the now dry 631, Savassi. Best churrascarias are Minuano, Moderate, Rua Professor Morais 635 plain, accumulating along the banks of the many rivers that cut through (225-3600) and Carretão Guaíba, Moderate, Av. do Contorno 8412 (337-7566)-not the area. The dry season (usually May to September) is the best time to only is the food good here but the way it's served is spectacular, all the steaks and visit the Pantanal, a time of the year when visitors can see thousands of sausages you can eat. Called rodizio or rotation-style, this system has become popu- alligators, armadillos, monkeys, the capivara (the world's largest rodent), lar in recent years-the waiters rotate from table to table carrying long skewers and if you're lucky the famed onça, the Brazilian jaguar. But the best sights heavy with sizzling meat and sausages and stopping only when you say no more. are reserved for those who lift their gaze skywards. As birdwatchers Other conventional churrascarias are o Laçador, Moderate, Rua Gonçalves Dias throughout the world have long known, the Pantanal is world-class bird- 874 (224-3335); Grill, Moderate, Av. do Contorno 5671 (221-9368); and Vitelo's, Moderate, Rua Cláudio Manoel 1149, Savassi (226-0993). The best Italian restau- thought existed. ing territory where in a single day you can see more species than you ever rant is Tavernaro, Moderate, Rua Antonio de Albuquerque 889 in Savassi (221-8283) and for German cooking try Stadt Jever, Moderate, Av. do Contorno For those who come to do more than watch the wildlife, the Pantanal 5771, Savassi (223-5056). is also famed as one of the top fishing areas on the earth. It is practically unbeatable for both variety and quantity of fish. Here you will find the NIGHTLIFE. The nightlife in Belo has become concentrated in the Savassi neigh- piraracu, at 600 pounds the largest fresh-water fish in the world. Other borhood, with many outdoor bars, excellent restaurants, and a few night clubs with top eating varieties are the pintado and the pacu and if you've ever won- live Brazilian music. The "in" spots tend to change from season to season but try dered what a piranha looks like close up, here is the place to find out. Aloha, Rua Pernambuco 1108 (226-6783); Sunset Boulevard, Av. Getúlio Vargas Unlike the Amazon, the Pantanal is not closed in by jungle; thus, move- 1640 (223-9000); and Era Uma Vez um Chalezinho (with excellent fondue), Rua ment here, by river, road, or rail, is relatively unrestricted. In past days Paraiba 1453 (221-2170). All are located in Savassi, where you can't go wrong for the lack of facilities for tourists made a trip to the Pantanal a form of Bra- nightlife. zilian safari but today the region has received major investments in tour- BRAZIL 249 SOUTH AMERICA 248 ism infrastructure. Comfortable fishing camps plus small hotels for scattered those trips to see and photograph the wildlife (there is no hunting allowed in the Pantanal). Accommodations tend to be comfortable but modest. Al- who simply want to sit back and enjoy nature watching are now of throughout the Pantanal. But while the comfort has increased a sense setting though the Pantanal today is no longer off the beaten track, it still has adventure still prevails, thanks to the as yet undisturbed natural no luxury facilities for tourists. The food is included in the room rate and where tranquil rivers with alligators sunning on the banks cut through the most of it comes from the region itself. Besides the fish from the rivers, the vast sedimentary plain, leaving a sensation that you have escaped Pantanal you will have freshly-baked bread made by the hotel as well as such Panta- modern world and returned to prehistoric times. A trip to the nal delicacies as monkey meat and piranha soup. Be prepared to take things easy since there is virtually nothing to do at night except rest or is an unforgettable experience. talk to the other guests of the hotel. The hotels are isolated and it is not possible to travel from one to another at night since all travel in the Panta- Exploring the Pantanal nal is by boat. capital of the state of Mato Grosso, and in the south by way of contain city The region has two main gateways, in the north via the city of Cuiaba, the Similar excursions into the Pantanal are possible via the southern gate- way city of Corumba, located on the Paraguay River. If you wish to get an idea of the immensity of this part of Brazil, there is a train ride from of Curumba, in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul. These two states South the city of São Paulo to Corumba. The one-and-a-half day trip is not all of the Pantanal as well as some of the largest cattle ranches in America. In this area a sense of frontier life still exists, but the region's known for its comfort but the final ten hours provide a spectacular view main cities are expanding quickly. Only ten years ago, Cuiaba was a city of the Pantanal. Once in Corumba, a sleepy river town with little to see, boat trips into the Pantanal can be arranged. For the truly adventuresome where could see roughened ranch hands walking the streets wearing folklore there is a two-day trip across the Pantanal on a supply boat that carries holsters you and packing six-shooters. Today such sights belong to food and other necessities to small settlements located in the marshlands. and Cuiaba is a bustling modern city with high rises sprouting up at every The boat goes up the Paraguay and São Lourenço Rivers, ending the trip downtown corner. The cattle ranches plus an explosion of farming (espe- at Porto Jofre, the last stop on the Transpantineira Highway. The trip pro- cially soybeans, of which Brazil today is the world's number two producer, vides an excellent look at the Pantanal and the way its inhabitants live, behind the United States) have brought new wealth to the city and region. but life on board is rustic to say the least. There are no cabins and passen- Once you've arrived in Cuiaba get in touch with a tour operator, assum- is gers must bring their own hammocks to sleep in. To buy a passage go to have not already taken this step in Rio or São Paulo. A guide either the wharves in Corumba. ing highly you recommended for the Pantanal. On your first day in Cuiaba take a tour or rent a van with an English-speaking driver to in this you area on PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE PANTANAL join drive the nearby Transpantaneira Highway. The Pantanal is a is on somewhat like the Everglades in Florida, and the highway of the WHEN TO GO. The dry season (May to Sept.) is the only time when it is practi- built swampy, above the level of the swamps, giving you an excellent view small cal to make a trip to the Pantanal. During the rainy season (Oct. to Mar. or Apr.), and whatever wildlife is visible. Some tours spend the night in itself the Pantanal is mostly under water, which makes visits impossible although you region along the highway, returning to Cuiaba the next day. The city Portu- may rent a plane to fly over the region. It is usually hot, except for June and July, towns few attractions. While it was founded in the 18th century by heri- and few of the hotels or fishing camps have air-conditioning so dress for warm has adventurers looking for gold, Cuiaba has preserved little of Grosso its is weather. Also, mosquitoes are a constant nuisance-bring lots of bug spray. guese The Indian Museum of the Federal University of Mato main- HOW TO GET THERE. Both Corumba and Cuiaba have airports that are served tage. of interest and Cuiaba is also home to a satellite tracking station by Vasp, Varig-Cruzeiro, and Transbrasil airlines. There are also direct buses from São Paulo and Rio that make the trip to the two cities although the journey is long tained by NASA. rock formation located 40 miles from Cuiaba. This immense geological and On day two, arrange to visit the Chapada dos Guimarães, a mystical and tiring. The train ride from São Paulo to Corumba will provide you with a view of the booming interior region of the state of São Paulo, easily the most developed area of Brazil. formation surges to a height of 2,400 feet with lush green forests action spec- tacular waterfalls as well as curious rock formations carved by the HOTELS. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." In of the wind over millions of years. The Chapada also possesses a strange Cuiaba the best hotels are Aurea Palace, Moderate, Av. General Melo 63 magnetic force that reduces the speed of cars, even when they are going (322-3377); Excelsior, Moderate, Av. Getulio Vargas 264 (322-6322); Las Velas, Moderate, Av. Filinto Muller 62 (381-1422); Mato Grosso, Inexpensive, Rua Com- downhill. Now are ready for a full-scale trip into the Pantanal. From this to andante Costa 2522 (321-9121). on you will have to deal with a travel agency or tour several operator begin In Corumba there is little to choose from but try Pousada do Cachimbo, Moder- point things you for you. Most trips last three to four days and 120 miles ate, Rua Alan Kardec 4 (231-4833); Santa Monica, Inexpensive, Rua Antonio arrange with drive or flight from Cuiaba to the city of Caceres, about down Maria Coelho 345 (231-3001); and Beira Rio, Inexpensive, Rua Manoel Cassava 109 (231-2554). the a southwest. Here you will take a trip in an outboard motorboat Going For accommodations in the Pantanal, the most recommended options are: Hotel to the Paraguay River for three hours until you reach the Jauru River. birds and Fazenda Barranquinho, Moderate, (279-0555 in São Paulo), for fishing and nature the Jauru (always have your camera ready, especially for the one watching, near Cuiaba; Hotel Cabanas do Pantanal, Moderate, fishing and nature up alligators), you will soon arrive at the Hotel Fazenda Barranquinho, tourism trips, northern Pantanal near Cuiaba (322-1353); Cabana do Lontra, Moderate, of the better hotels in the area, with room for 36 guests. Run by a and trips. fishing and nature trips, in the southern Pantanal near Corumba (283-5843 in São agency, the hotel provides horses and outboard boats for fishing Pantanal, Paulo); Fazenda Santa Clara, Moderate, fishing and nature trips, southern Pantanal will receive all the assistance you need from the staff to either fish or In this hotel, as in other fishing camps and hotels in the take you near Corumba (284-4877 in São Paulo); Hotel dos Camalotes, Moderate, fishing and nature trips, air-conditioning in the rooms, southern Pantanal near Corumba 250 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 251 (258-0344 in São Paulo); Paraiso dos Dourados, Moderate, fishing and nature trips, There are sumptuous mansions vying for a place in the sun with mud- air-conditioning in the rooms (258-4355 in São Paulo), southern Pantanal near thatched shanties. Corumba; Santa Rosa Pantanal, Moderate, fishing and nature trips, northern Pan- tanal near Cuiaba (321-5514 in Cuiaba); Corumbi, Amazonas, Trans-Tur and Santa If you stay there for awhile, you'll find Salvador is not just a city but Isabel "botels," boats converted into hotels, air-conditioning, southern Pantanal an entire way of life, where the arts and the human personality are more near Corumba (231-3016 in Corumba). All of these hotels have accommodations important than money or political ambitions. The city has been called the "Renaissance of Latin America," because of its attitudes toward beauty for 20 to 40 persons. and self-expression and the number of artists from all over the nation (and RESTAURANTS. The best eating in this area is in restaurants specializing in the world) who have gone there for inspiration. But this does not mean river fish. At the hotels in the Pantanal, fish is the main course and in some cases that Bahia is all siestas in the sun. Far from it. One glance at the dozens the only course. In Cuiaba try Flutuante, Moderate, Rua Santa Baracat (381- of new office buildings and the hundreds of modern apartments and houses 5157)-the menu contains a wide choice of the best fish dishes of the region, which will dispel that idea. It is simply that the Bahianos have found a way to should give you a good idea of the flavor of the different species caught in the Panta- live with the best of both worlds, and, like their hybrid religion, their city nal; Regionalissimo, Moderate, Rua 13 de Junho (next to the Casa do Artesão) has become a surprising, fascinating experience. (321-0603), regional specialties, live music; Aurea Palace, Moderate, in the hotel of the same name, Rua General Melo 63 (322-3637); Maria Taquara, Moderate, SALVADOR in the Excelsior Hotel, Av. Getulio Vargas 246 (322-6322). In Corumba the best fish restaurant is the Ceara, Moderate, Av. Rio Branco 580 (231-1930). Salvador was the first city the Portuguese built up when they colonized TOURS. Getting to the gateway cities of Curumba and Cuiaba is not difficult, Brazil. That was in 1549. Today this city spreads around the bay of Todos but from then on you will need the assistance of professionals to arrange visits to os Santos (All Saints), which is so wide (1,052 square kilometers) it could the Pantanal. Most large travel agencies and tour operators in Rio and São Paulo supposedly hold all the ships in the world. Salvador was built by the early now offer Pantanal packages and you can get in touch with them through your trav- settlers to keep the Spanish, French, and Dutch away from the new colony el agent at home. Plan a Pantanal trip well in advance since hotel space is limited belonging to King Dom Joao III. The administration buildings and resi- and the best spots are always booked up ahead of time. Some persons, such as bird- dences were built on the hills, the forts, docks, and warehouses on the watching enthusiasts, may want a special tour package to visit particular areas of beaches. To this day, it is still divided into upper and lower cities. From the Pantanal. Your best bet in that case would be to get in touch with Rio Custom 1500 to 1815, Salvador enjoyed being the nation's busiest port. The sugar Tours, Travessa Madré Jacinta 25, Rio de Janeiro (274-3217), a Rio tour operator from the northeast and the area surrounding All Saints Bay and the gold that specializes in Pantanal trips, especially for foreign bird-watchers. and diamonds from the mines in the south all passed through this town. It was a golden age for Salvador when magnificent homes and richly deco- rated churches were built. Its churches have few rivals anywhere in the world. Thanks to a federal commission called The National Historic and BAHIA Artistic Patrimony Service, created in 1941, many of the city's old church- es are the same today as they were the day they were built. Entire squares, such as Largo do Pelourinho, hundreds of private homes and even the If you have only time to visit two cities in Brazil, make them Rio and hand-chipped street paving bricks have been preserved and restoration Salvador, although, as residents of the latter will quickly add, once you've work is still continuing. Salvador counts 97,000 buildings and about been to Salvador you won't need to visit Rio. With a rich colonial past 20,000 of them are over 250 years old. Yet there are brand new buildings evident in its historical churches, forts, and buildings Salvador is known going up everywhere to meet the living requirements of the progressive to Brazilians as the most Brazilian of their cities. For this it draws not citizens of today. only upon its history (Salvador was Brazil's first capital) but also upon Salvador may be seen, if necessary, in three days but only if you're the colors, tastes, sounds, and aromas of this unique city that mixes old pressed for time. The city really requires five days at the minimum. Save and new, black and white, religion and mysticism. A blend of African, time for shopping and if possible one extra day to travel into the interior Indian, and European cultures, Salvador moves to its own rhythm, slow of the state of Bahia and sensual, more at ease even than Rio and blessed with miles and miles The first day: By now you've become intrigued by the history of Salva- of practically untouched beaches. The capital of the state of Bahia, with dor, so plunge into the Upper City, home to Brazil's best preserved colo- which it is so closely identified that Salvador is often called Bahia, Salva- nial architecture. If you wish to do this on your own it would be best to dor is at once South American and African, a mix that makes it unlike contact an English-speaking guide either through your hotel or the local any other city in the world. tourism authority, Bahiatursa (see "Practical Information" below). Other- There are red-tile roofs tacked atop white plaster walls. There are palm wise, there are several local tour operators that can give you an excellent trees, baroque architecture, an abundance of churches, and happy carefree tour of the colonial Upper City and other sights in Salvador in air- people. These are the expectable things. Then there are the thousands of conditioned mini-buses with English-speaking guides. For those of you on black faces, with bodies swathed in cloth of neo-African styles. There are your own, start out at the downtown Praça da Sé. Remember, you should dishes of hot strange foods prepared nowhere else in the world. There is dress casually because of the heat but don't wear bermudas or swimming a strange drum beating voodoo ritual that mingles the best of the African wear as some churches will not let you in. To the left of the Praça is the and Christian ideals into a powerful, frighteningly personal religion. There Archbishop's Palace, built in the 18th century and today used as the Cath- is a fight dance called capoeira that originated in Bahia and is only prac- olic Law School. On the other side of the Tourist Office is the 18th-century ticed here. There are modern automobiles vying with plodding donkeys. Holy House of Mary church. Walking up Guedes de Brito Street, you'll 252 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 253 see Saldanha Palace with its impressive gateway. The School of Arts and Crafts is there now. As you walk up Bispo Street you'll pass São Damasco SALVADOR Seminary, built in 1700, and will come to a little square and the Church DOS of São Francisco Convent. It is one of Brazil's most famous and undoubt- 0 1 Mile PTO. 74 edly one of the most beautiful in the world. Hand carved in every nook o 1 Km. and cranny and then covered with shining gold, it is so impressive that many tourists stay around all day just watching the play of light on the FRANCISCO walls. It is especially beautiful during a High Mass. The image of St. Peter of Alcantara on the lateral altar on the right is so well done that church S. 2 AV. CAM. DE AREIA authorities had a battle with Emperor Dom Pedro II, because he wanted R. LUIS TARQUIND BONEIM AV. ESTR DE it for his private chapel. Only the men may visit the blue-tiled cloisters Fort of CAMPINAS of the monastery; women must be content to peer through the grillwork. Mont Serrat DNE There are Franciscan fathers there who will show you around. When you SÃO leave drop some money into the poor box, for the church does an impres- BR sive job three times a day supplying warm meals for the poor. Right next CAETANO DE door is the church of the Third Order of São Francisco. Inside there is AV. All GALL a room that is worth seeing full of life-size statues. The intricate facade CRISTOVAO ST was carved in 1703 but hidden for many years by a thick coat of plaster. Saints Bay R. MARTIN It was a major art find when it was uncovered recently. Now to the square AV. JEQUITAIA LIBERDADE of Terreiro de Jesus with the 16th century Basilica Cathedral, the church of the Third Order of São Domingos (1731), and the church of St. Peter DA of the Clerics. From here, up Alfredo de Brito Street you come to the ar- Itaparica Island ESTR. chitectural spectacle of the Largo do Pelourinho. It was here that thou- R. MARINHO SALDANHA sands of slaves were chained together, then sold on that platform on the R. MQ. DE right side of the street. Note the typical old balconies, the tiles and the VITA U.E. R. ALARDS MARICÁ people who look as if they've stepped from a Debret engraving. The streets that lead into the Largo, all narrow and cobblestoned, contain several 3 LISBOA Fort of São QUINTAS fine shops for the purchase of the region's delicate lace work-blouses, Marcelo 8 6 AV. dresses, table clothes, etc. Walk slowly down to Taboão Square where five Largo do Pelourinho 11 5 9 BARROS FACICIO ANTONIO streets cross and then up the Ladeira do Carmo. Now take a quaint flight N ANGÉLICA of steps that leads to the Church of the Passo and continue to the top of the street. Here the Carmo Convent and the Church of the Third Order 4 1 R of Carmo stand side by side. The church is famed for its image of the cruci- 7 R fied Christ. To enter the convent, you have to know the way. Beside the CHILE JOANA AL DA GAMA biggest door in the room hangs a cord. Pull it and from somewhere inside 10 MARIO AV. LEAL FERREIRA a smiling guard appears to escort you about. Be sure and tip him when SILVA 12 LAD. you leave. Going up the Ladeira do Carmo, there is a corner of blue-tiled R. FTE. DE PEDRO COSTA VASCO DOM DA houses. REDENÇAO SETE AV. TORORÓ JOÃO Tell the driver to take you to Baixa do Sapateiro, a street filled with VI MAL. shops and private homes that time has somehow forgotten. Afterward look Dique do AV. FELIO NASCO DA GAMA at the Convent of the Desterro (1678), where the sisters have a well- Tororó AV. JURACY MAGALHÃES deserved reputation as candy makers. It is Brazil's oldest and most beauti- GRAÇA DA ful convent. Go up Avenida Joana Angelica to the Tororó steps. Below AV. EUCL AV.CARLOS MAGALHÃES them lies the Dique, an artificial lake made in the 17th century as part DA CUNHA Barra Praia de Amaralina of the city's defense system. It is also considered by followers of candom- Harbor DENTENARIO AL Lagoa do Abaeté blé, the African religion brought to Brazil by the slaves, to be the bay of GARIBALDI Arembepe Oxum, a river nymph who is the god of beauty and good fortune. At night Airport BARRA presents are left on the banks of the Dique for Oxum. Also, no one swims AV. AV PRESIDENTE VARGAS AMARALINA in the Dique-these are sacred waters. LUis R. OSVAL For the night of your first day in Salvador visit one of the many bars ATLANTIC OCEAN Ocean Beaches CRU with live Brazilian popular music. Salvador is the birthplace of many of 1 The Basílica Cathedral 7 Museum of Sacred Art Brazil's top singing stars, such as Gilberto Gil, Gal Costa, Caetano Veloso, 2 Bonfim Church 8 Our Lady of the Rosario of the Blacks' Church AV. 3 Carmo Convent, Church, and Museum 9 The Saint Peter of the Clerics Church AMARALINA and Maria Bethania, and in the city's nights spots you can listen to their 4 Elevator Lacerda 10 São Francisco Church songs and those of the other giants of samba and bossa nova. Nightlife 5 Mercado Modelo 11 The Third Order of São Domingos Church 6 The Most Sacred Sacrement Church 12 The Third Order of São Francisco Church is centered in the Barra neighborhood, along the beach of the same name. BRAZIL 255 254 SOUTH AMERICA are struck it is easy to imagine the force of the dancers' legs and feet should For your first night try Bistro 507 or Bistro do Luis in nearby Rio Vermel- they strike their mark. ho. If you decide to leave capoeira for another evening, you may opt for The second day should be devoted to beaches and outdoor scenery. Rent a night of black magic, a candomblé ceremony. Candomblé is another ex- a car and driver for the day and tell the driver to go slowly towards the ample of how the African slaves fought to preserve their own culture in Lagoa do Abaeté. The first impressive building you will pass is the white the new world. Prohibited from practicing their native religions, the slaves columned University Rectory. If you wish you may go in to see the blue pretended to worship the saints of the Catholic Church but in reality for tiles and the reconstructed auditorium. On the beachfront drive, called each saint they substituted one of their native gods. Over the centuries the Orla, you will see the results of the boom in tourism in Salvador in the Catholic priests grew to accept the fact that for many of the worshipers recent years. Anxious to compete with Rio, the city government has land- who filled the churches, the symbols of Catholicism were also symbols of scaped the beach area for a total of some 15 miles, turning this area of candomblé. This duality of worship continues to exist today with the ex- white sand beaches into one of the most beautiful beach drives in Brazil. ception that while once it was banned by the church, today it is accepted Along the beach there are kiosks where you can savor a cold drink while and even extolled as an example of the blending of races and cultures in you sample a seafood snack Bahia-style. (Although Bahian food has a rep- Salvador. Known as the most deeply religious of Brazilian cities, Salvador utation for being hot, in fact it is merely well-spiced. The hot sauces are has 166 churches but it also has 4,000 candomblé temples. Bahians say: served separately and if you wish to taste them, do so with caution. They it's better with both-if one doesn't work, the other will. are not really needed, though. Bahian food, especially seafood, is delicious Several of the candomblé temples allow tourists to witness their ceremo- and easily stands on its own, without the sauces.) Along the drive you will nies and there is rarely a week that goes by without at least one celebration be impressed by the vast quantity of coconut palms as well as the little for one of the many African gods. Each god has his or her counterpart boys selling fresh coconuts. If you stop for one, watch how deftly a boy in the Catholic religion and each also wears a special color and dresses can nick off the top with his knife. The milk is warm and sweet. Ask him and dances in a specific manner. Thus when a particular god is being hon- to split open the coconut and then go on and eat the soft white meat with ored candomblé followers will wear his color that day-even to work. You your fingers. You will pass famed Itapuã Beach with its tall coconut trees can arrange to visit a temple through your hotel or a tour operator. Re- and finally reach the lagoon. Brazilian composers have written dozens of member not to take photos unless the permission of the Mae do Santo songs about this strange inland lake with its contrast of white, white sand (priestess) is given. Be prepared to be separated from your friends once and black, black waters. Native women wash their clothes here, and there you arrive there. They will tell you where to sit and it's always men on are some good restaurants in the area for lunch or a cooling drink. Take one side and women on the other. There is nothing to be frightened of your bathing suit too, for you might like to sample one of the beaches on either, but don't be surprised to see the Brazilian beside you suddenly be- the way going or coming. come "possessed" by spirits, fall onto the ground, roll his eyes, and then Once you've finished with the lagoon go back to the beaches and follow dance in a contorted, uncomfortable position. When you leave (sometime them out into the newest area where hotels and restaurants are now after midnight) show your appreciation by placing some money at the feet sprouting. The beaches here are even better than the stretch between Barra of the chief drummer. and Itapuã. Running on north of the Quatro Rodas Hotel are the beaches One more thing you should be aware of. While most foreigners naturally of Barra do Jacuípe, Itacimirim, Arembepe, Guarajuba, and Praia do associate candomblé with the voodoo ceremonies of the Caribbean, there Forte, where once a year great sea turtles return to lay their eggs. The is a major difference between the two. Unlike voodoo, candomblé is not drive is refreshing and the highway is flanked by coconut palms and white aimed at producing bad luck for your enemies. Followers are forbidden sand dunes. At Arembepe you'll find the remnants of a 1960s colony of to use the spirits convoked by the ceremonies to perform evil deeds. Can- hippies once frequented by pop stars Janis Joplin and Mick Jagger. Stop domblé is to be used only to produce positive results for the worshiper. for lunch at Guarajuba and afterward continue on to Praia do Forte, There are no dolls with pins sticking out of them in candomblé. which is quickly becoming the most popular beach in the Salvador area-it Finally, if you don't feel you're ready for a night of either candomblé also boasts the ruins of Brazil's only haunted castle. or capoeira, why not try a mixture of both as well as a sample of other For your second evening you should consider one of the three basic Bahian dances and folklore? There are four restaurants and one theater nighttime activities that all first-time visitors to Salvador should take in. in Salvador that offer Bahian folklore shows at night where examples of First is a capoeira exhibition, where, at the best Salvador academy in Bra- capoeira, candomblé, and the many other dances of the region are pres- zil, you will witness the fascinating capoeira dance-fight. At first glance ented (see "Practical Information" below). All are good but the restau- it looks like an involved dance, with the two men rotating around a small rants have the advantage of also offering you a sample of Bahian cuisine. space flinging their legs into the air and seemingly just missing each other's The combination of food and folklore is the perfect match for a Bahian heads with their feet. In reality, though, capoeira was invented as a karate- night. like fight-and was often a fatal one. The slaves were not permitted by The third day: Now you'll visit the other end of the city on the Itapagipe their masters to fight between themselves but by disguising their struggle peninsula. If you leave about 9 A.M. from the Praça da Sé the car will go as a dance they were able to resolve their disputes. Thus capoeira is accom- down commercially busy Rua Chile to Castro Alves Praça, then down the panied by the strange-sounding berimbau, a curving stick with a carved- Ladeira da Montanha (where many accidents have happened when the out gourd at its base and a single chord running from top to bottom which brakes didn't hold) and reach the lower city. That big column of white is stroked by the musician. Together with drums, this musical background cement rising to the upper city is the Lacerda elevator and is used to join slowly builds up with the tempo of the dancers until you become hypno- the two levels of Salvador. Imagine if you had to walk up and down those tized by the flying bodies in front of you and the eerie mystical sounds steep hills every time! Taking Avenida Frederico Pontes, you'll pass the of the drums and the berimbau. Although in today's capoeira no blows 264 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 265 men aboard, forts and churches, literally hundreds of miles of uninterrupt- PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR STATE OF BAHIA ed virgin beaches, women weaving fine lace, leather-clad northeastern For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." cowboys who yearly face the searing heat of the interior, clay sculptors, and finally, for aficionados, the best shrimp, lobster, and seafood eating PAULO AFONSO that you will find anywhere in the Americas. 260 miles north of Salvador Away from the state capitals, most located along the coast, you will find it rough going, but the recent discovery of the Northeast by European with restaurant, bar and pool (281-1914). HOTEL. Grande Hotel de Paulo Afonso. Moderate. The best hotel in the city. tourists-mainly the Germans, Swiss, French, and Austrians-has led to a building spree of hotels and restaurants of international quality on the coast. Here, mainly in the cities of Maceio, Recife, Fortaleza, and São ILHEUS Luis, you will discover an enchanting combination of warm weather, ex- 240 miles south of Salvador cellent beaches (the ocean water temperature in the Northeast is warm year-round), good hotels, and top quality restaurants, all at prices that HOTELS. This city of 130,000 has three good hotels: Ilheus Praia, Moderate, today make the Northeast one of the great bargain destinations in the sive, bar, restaurant, and pool, Praça Dom Eduardo (231-2533); Pontal Praia, Inexpen- world. pensive, Rua 28 de Junho 16 (231-1722). bar, restaurant, and pool, Av. Lomanto Jr. 1358 (231-3033); Britania, Inex- Maceio LENCOIS The present boom city in northeast tourism is Maceio, capital of the 240 miles west of Salvador state of Alagoas. The state has long been famous for its 150-mile coastline, HOTEL. Pousada de Lençois. Moderate. Rua Altina Alves 747 (334-1102). which the experts claim has the finest beaches in Brazil. Until recently, however, there was little in the way of basic comforts to greet the interna- tional tourist. Fortunately, things have changed, with new hotels already built and others on the way. Like the other major coastal cities of the Northeast, Maceio combines THE NORTHEAST its colonial past with the beauty of its natural setting. This is a place to relax and take it easy, enjoying the beaches and taking long walks through The area known as the Northeast begins in Bahia and extends to the the city. On the mainland side of the city are several large, beautiful lakes edge of the Amazon in the north, taking in that part of the nation that which can be visited by taxi. This is a good outing for lunch as there are bulges out into the Atlantic Ocean up north. In addition to Bahia the several fine restaurants along the Mundau lake. The best beaches are just gion is composed of the states of Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraiba, re- north of the city's limits and it is here also that the newest hotels have all Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piaui, and Maranhão. Although they been built. Colonial buildings and churches can be seen in the center of in part of the same region, the other states differ markedly from Bahia are the city around the Praça Dom Pedro II, a public square. tinct. North of Bahia, the influence is predominantly European. With so the that they have little of the African influence that makes Bahia dis- Recife passage of the centuries, however, even this influence has diminished and of today the Northeast of Brazil has its own culture and characteristics, born North of Maceio is the state of Pernambuco, whose capital Recife is the geographical and climatic peculiarities of this region. also the true capital of the Brazilian Northeast. The sixth largest city in The main one of these is the tendency of the region to alternate between Brazil, with a population of 1.5 million, Recife is a vibrant metropolis to drought and flood. The arid interior area, known as the sertão, is whose spirit is halfway between the modern cities of the south and the periodic droughts, which have driven many of its residents to the prone cities more traditional centers of the Northeast, a combination of old and new droughts ended after a five-year run in 1984. And when the rains of the south in search of employment. The last, and worst, of these that makes the city both an example of the past and a window on the fu- ture. If you have time for only one stop in the Northeast, make it Recife. they come in torrents-in 1985-86 the same area that had been stricken come, Known as the Venice of Brazil because it is built on three rivers and the by drought was subject to massive flooding. Despite its problems, however, connected by a host of bridges, Recife got its name from the reefs that interior of the Northeast may yet prove to be a vital food-producing line the coast and make the city's most popular beach, Boa Viagam, also the area for Brazil. The success of irrigation projects in Bahia has encouraged one of the more unusual bathing spots in Brazil. government to invest its money plus funds from the World Bank in In the morning, when the tide is in, the waves come up almost to the a multi-billion dollar irrigation project for the rest of the Northeast in an road, then as the tide recedes, the rocks of the reefs slowly appear. Depend- effort to make the desert bloom. ing on the time of the day, individual swimming pools are formed, fish But while the inland area of the Northeast is one of the poorest and flap around the bathers, and the hidden rock formations dry into odd col- most backward in Brazil, the coastal region is fertile and safe from ors in the afternoon sun. drought. For the tourist this combination offers some of the most pictur- Another sight to see along this beach is the departure (about 6 A.M.) or balsa-wood rafts with a single sail, that brave the Atlantic with lone fisher- esque sights in Brazil. There are the jangada fishing boats, little more than the return (about 2 P.M.) of the jangadas, those crude, log rafts with the beautiful sails that local fishermen take out onto the high seas. Many sto- ries and legends have been written about them, and they are as dangerous 266 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 267 as they look. Only an expert navigator and swimmer should try one. It from Recife and Olinda and tourists attracted by the convivial nature of on them all their lives. looks easy for the sunburnt men of Recife, but they have been working the milling crowds moving back and forth between several small bars that open at night on top of the hill. Boa Viagem for the residents of Recife is what Copacabana and Ipane- At Alto da Sé, and also at the downtown Culture Center, you will notice ma beaches are for Rio's citizens-the center of social life. On the week- small clay statuettes for sale. Almost all of these are made in the interior ends the beach is packed and at night the many restaurants, bars, and side- town of Caruaru, considered the leading handicrafts center of South walk cafes turn Boa Viagem into a glittering center of nightlife, the top America. Reached by daily bus or special taxis on Wednesdays and Satur- spot in the Northeast for a night on the town. days, the days of the fair, the trip is well worth it. Not only will you be Recife and Pernambuco were at one time part of the Dutch colonial able to see a very colorful interior market place, but you'll be able to rub & empire until the Portuguese from the south of Brazil drove them out. The elbows with the leather-clad cowboys of the harsh, dry region, see the way influence of the two European colonial powers is evident in the city's many the people live on the parched soil, and be entertained by strolling musi- fine churches. In the downtown area of Recife is the convent and church cians and dancers. Allow one full day for this. of Saint Anthony with the famed Gold Chapel, a baroque design covered Near the Recife-Olinda area is the historical city of Igarassu, which in gold leaf and one of the most important and beautiful examples of reli- among its colonial buildings numbers the oldest church in Brazil, the gious art in Brazil. Other colonial-era churches in the center of Recife are Church of Saints Cosme and Damião. Also worth a visit is the island of the Church of the Blessed Sacrament, built in 1753, the Basilica of Our Itamaracá, famed for its beaches and site of a fort built by the Dutch. Both Lady of Carmo (1687), the Cathedral of the Clergymen of Saint Peter with Igarassu and Itamaracá can be visited in day trips from Recife or Olinda. the adjoining Saint Peter's Courtyard, where there are bars, restaurants, Farther away but just as interesting is the interior city of Nova Jerusa- antique and handicraft shops (these three churches are all located on Av. lem, a replica of the city of Jerusalem of Biblical times that has been con- Dantas Barreto), and the Basilica of Our Lady Penha (1656), on Rua da structed to serve as an immense open air theater where, every Easter, the Penha. While you are downtown you should also visit the Cinco Pontas Northeast is home to one of the world's more remarkable passion plays. Fort, built by the Dutch in 1630 and today home to the city museum, and Nova Jerusalem is located 30 miles from Caruaru and is a must if you the Pernambuco Culture Center, built as a prison in the 19th century but decide to visit the famous Caruaru fair; plan on spending the night in Car- now the best regional crafts center of the Northeast, offering a multitude uaru. While in Nova Jerusalem you should also visit the Statue Park, of shops (located in the former prison cells) showing the wares of the re- where Northeastern artists have sculpted lifesize granite statues of typical gion as well as performances of northeastern dances and music. and historical figures of the region. But the best of the old Northeast is preserved in the ex-colonial capital Parties are also a part of the Northeastern lifestyle-the two biggest of Olinda, today a suburb of Recife, a half hour from downtown. In recent blowouts in the region are Carnival and the saints days during the month years Olinda has enjoyed a renaissance, taking on a life of its own after of June. For Carnival, Olinda has acquired a reputation as fun capital of it was declared a world historical monument by UNESCO. Built on a se- the Northeast. Each year through its narrow streets thousands of revelers ries of hills overlooking the ocean, Olinda is remarkably well preserved, dance all day and all night, performing the frevo, a regional dance that with its narrow, winding streets snaking up and down the hills and offering requires its performers to defy both gravity and human endurance. In the at every turn spectacular views of the ocean and Recife in the distance month of June on the days of the most popular saints, block parties are while up close you see the historical past of the Northeast in the colonial churches and homes of Olinda. held throughout Recife, where a traditional dance called the quadrilha, similar to American square dancing, is performed. The city was built by the Dutch during their brief turn at running Per- nambuco in the 1600s. Many of the houses still have the original latticed balconies, heavy doors, and pink stucco walls, evoking the colonial period. João Pessoa and Natal Residents of the city are forbidden to change its architecture or to con- North of Recife is the city of João Pessoa, capital of the state of Paraiba struct any new buildings that would not be compatible with the colonial and another site of fine beaches. The city has one of the best hotels in the motif. The result is a beautiful, compact city where the white, pink, and region, the Tambaú, part of the excellent Tropical hotel chain owned by red of the homes and tile roofs stand against the rich green of the heavily Varig Airlines. Beyond João Pessoa is the city of Natal, capital of Rio landscaped hills and the blue of the ocean below. Give yourself plenty of Grande do Norte. Besides warm water and good beaches, Natal is also time to explore Olinda by foot and if you can don't miss the sunset from known for its miles of sand dunes that run along the ocean. here. You won't forget it. The top attractions in Olinda are the Church of Our Lady Carmo, built in 1588; the Convent of Our Lady Neves (1585), the first Franciscan Fortaleza church in Brazil; the Seminary of Olinda, (1584), the Cathedral (1537), Capital of the state of Ceara, this city of 1.8 million, fifth largest in Bra- with an extraordinarily beautiful view; the Pernambucan Museum of Sa- zil, has fallen on hard times lately, the result of the region's most recent cred Art; the Misericordia Church (1540), the best preserved and most drought which drove thousands of impoverished tenant farmers from the impressive of Olinda's churches; the Ribeira Market, where handmade interior into the city. Because of this Fortaleza has not yet been able to goods are sold; the Museum of Contemporary Art housed in an 18th cen- live up to its tourism potential, but there is no question that in the near tury building; and the São Bento Monastery (1582), the first law school future the city will be making its name known outside of Brazil. The reason in Brazil. The highest point in Olinda, the Alto da Sé, is also the city's for this is that even in hard times, Fortaleza has excellent attractions-fine social center. Here, by day, several stands sell regional art and handicrafts, beaches and even better ones located nearby, the best lobster fishing and while at night on the weekends the square is packed with young people eating in Brazil, and the top lace industry in the country. The city is also 268 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 269 on its way to becoming a world-class fashion center, thanks to the combi- to be torrential and can lead to flooding in the downtown areas of the cities, nation of abundant raw materials and cheap manpower. These two factors and if possible avoid the rainy season. The best time to come is between Jan. and have already permitted Fortaleza fashion designers to challenge their big the Apr; temperatures of the coastal cities at pleasant levels, in the interior areas for Carnival the top location is Recife-Olinda. Although the sea breeze of keeps the city rivals in Rio and São Paulo and today one of Brazil's most important fashion fairs takes place annually in Fortaleza in April. Northeast it can get extremely hot. Due south of Fortaleza on the coast is the city of Aracati, Ceara's most HOW TO GET THERE. The capital cities are all served by Brazil's major air- famed lace center where you will see little girls just three years old learning to thread a needle and unravel snarled thread, as well as aging grandmoth good to Fortaleza. From Fortaleza to São Luis, however, you are better off fly- Varig, Vasp, Cruzeiro, and Transbrasil. The highways along the coast are also ers almost blind from the years of close, delicate labor. Close to Aracati as up the road connections are poor. Buses serve the entire region and bus trans- are Ceara's best beaches, most notably Canoa Quebrada, with white sand portation 108 is the most popular way of travel from one capital to another. Recife has dunes and crystal clear turquoise waters. This area is still little explored international airport and receives charter flights from Europe and Canada plus for tourism, a fact that complicates visits but also guarantees the survival regularly an scheduled flights from Miami (Varig) and Lisbon (Air Portugal). Brasilia For the for the moment of an area of rare primitive beauty. odventuresome there is a highway that cuts through the jungle between and Belem offering a fascinating look at the backlands of Brazil, including the state of Maranhão in the Northeast. There are daily buses in both directions and the São Luis trip takes three days. Comfort is minimal. The last major city along the coast of the Northeast, São Luis, capital MACEIO of the state of Maranhão, is also the poorest. While this does not detract from the beauty of its beaches, the biggest in the region, it has unfortunate ly complicated efforts by local officials to preserve the city's historical heri- HOTELS. New and the best hotel in town is the Jatiuca, Expensive, Rua Lagoa tage. Many of the colonial buildings in the old part of the city, some of da and bar. Second best and also new is the Luxor, Expensive, Av. Duque de Caxias Anta 220 (231-2555). 96 rooms on the beach with pool, tennis court, restaurant them still covered with 18th century French and Portuguese tiles, are 2076 (223-7075), near the beach, pool, restaurant and bar. Other good hotels are today in desperate need of preservation, a fact recognized by local authori- the Pajuçara Othon, Moderate, Rua Jangadeiros Alagoanos 1292 (221-0101), with ties who are, sad to say, handcuffed by a lack of funds. For that reason pool, restaurant, and bar; Beira Mar, Moderate, Av. Duque de Caxias 1994 what is one of the largest areas of colonial buildings in Brazil is slowly (223-8022), pool, restaurant, and bar; Enseada, Moderate, Rua Antonio Octacilio Gouveia wasting away. For the time being, however, it is still worth taking a walk 171 (231-4726), pool and bar; Ponta Verde Praia, Moderate, Av. Alvaro through the old town, where you will see the colonial homes and buildings 2933 (231-4040), pool, restaurant, and bar. with their colorful tiles (all buildings in São Luis today have these tiles RESTAURANTS. Accompanying the arrival of tourism in Maceio has been the but most of them were added recently to maintain the colonial spirit of the city; only the historical buildings still have Portuguese and French tiles opening of several fine restaurants with excellent options for regional as well as in- ternational dishes. The best restaurants for northeastern seafood dishes are: Restau- from the 18th century), as well as wrought iron balconies. rante das Alagoas, Moderate, in the Hotel Jatiuca (231-2555); Lagostão, Expensive, The city of São Luis is located on an island; on the mainland is another colonial relic, the city of Alcantara, today a national monument where Av. Alípio Barbosa 321 (221-5186); Bem, Moderate, Rua João Canuto da Silva Av. Duque de Caxias 1384 (221-6211) for lobster; Restaurante do Alipio, Moderate, the colonial ruins are maintained. Access to Alcantara, 15 miles away 21 (231-3316); Peixada da Rita, Moderate, Rua Antonio Baltazar, simple but excel- from São Luis, is by boat or private plane since the only road link is a lent. For international cuisine try: Forno e Fogão in the Hotel Luxor, Expensive, precarious dirt strip that can take up to a day's journey. Boats leave daily (223-7075); Fornace, Expensive, Av. Robert Kennedy 2167 (231-1780), on the from downtown São Luis but these are primitive fishing boats suitable only beach; Seandro's, Expensive, Av. Fernando Lima 554 (221-3164), live music, danc- for the adventuresome. A catamaran also makes the trip and is far more ing. Gstaad, Moderate, Av. Robert Kennedy 2167 (231-1780), good for fondue. comfortable and reliable, although the trip is made only with groups (con- tact Taguatur Turismo at 222-6658). RECIFE São Luis is known for its folklore presentations, which are considered the most authentic of the Northeast. The principal one is called bumba- HOTELS. Most of the top hotels in Recife are located along Boa Viagem beach, meu-boi, an involved dance drama which reenacts a folk tale with colorful- although the beach area of next-door Olinda has the new Quatro Rodas Hotel, best in the area. In Boa Viagem the newest and best is the Recife Palace, Deluxe, Av. ly costumed dancers. The same dance is performed throughout the North- Boa Viagem 4070 (325-4044), owned and run by the same people who have Rio's east but São Luis in particular is famed for the beauty of the costumes excellent Rio Palace Hotel, with French restaurant and discotheque, on the beach; of the dancers. The city is also home to the Tambor de Mina, a voodoo Miramar, Deluxe, Rua dos Navegantes 363 (326-7422), 120 air-conditioned rooms, ceremony that has generated a dance-ritual called Tambor de Criolo. swimming pool, bar, restaurant, and nightclub; a new Sheraton, the Petribu Shera- These African religious rites were brought from the Caribbean by slaves ton, Deluxe, was scheduled to open in mid-1989, Av. Bernardo Vieira de Mello and are the only ones in Brazil that are similar to the voodoo ceremonies 1624 (361-4511), 200 rooms, convention center, pool, tennis courts, restaurant and of Haiti in their use of dolls and pins. bars, on the Piedade Beach; Internacional Othon Palace, Expensive, Av. Boa Vi- 3722 (326-7225), pool, restaurant, and bar; Villa Rica, Moderate, Av. Boa agem Viagem 4308, (326-5111), on the beach, pool, bar, and restaurant; Boa Viagem, PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE NORTHEAST Moderate, Av. Boa Viagem 5000 (341-4144), beach-front, pool, bar, and restaurant; Jangadeiro, Moderate, Av. Boa Viagem 3114 (326-6777), on the beach, pool, bar, WHEN TO GO. The weather in the Northeast is good all year long, with the and restaurant; Savaroni, Moderate, Av. Boa Viagem 3772 (325-5077), on the 9 temperature and humidity increasing as you go north, nearing the equator and the beach, pool, bar, and restaurant; Park, Moderate, Rua dos Navegantes Amazon. The rainy season usually begins in Apr. and continues through June, al- (325-4666), pool, bar, and restaurant; do Sol, Moderate, Av. Boa Viagem 978 though in São Luis there is daily rainfall starting in Sept. Rains in the Northeast (326-7644), bar, restaurant and pool, on the beach; Casa Grande e Senzala, Moder- 272 SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 273 Other good international restaurants: Sandra's, Expensive, Av. Engenheiro Luis ble trunk rivers. Ocean-going vessels can travel 2,700 miles upriver to Iqui- Vieira 555 (234-0503); Panela, Moderate, at the Iracema Plaza hotel (231-0066); tos, which is still about 600 miles from the origin of the river. the late (Yacht) Clube, Moderate, Av. Matias Beck 4813 in Mucuripe. For seafood, About one-third the world's oxygen is produced by the vegetation, and try the following, all on Av. Pres. Kennedy along the beach: Alfredo, 4616, Moder- one-fifth the fresh water in the world is provided by the Amazon. Al- ate (244-3818); Tocantins, 4294, Moderate (224-5201); Peixada do Meio 4632, Moderate (224-2719). Trapiche, 3956, Moderate (244-4400). though there are over 18,000 plant species in the basin, the extremely In general the best hotels and restaurants in Fortaleza are located along the Mei- heavy rainfall leaches the soil of its nutrients and makes organized cultiva- relles beach on Av. President Kennedy. Bars and outdoor cafes are also here for tion extremely impractical. Although poor in agricultural possibilities, the nightlife. The nearby Praia do Futuro beach is being developed now for tourism Amazon is rich in among other products, gold, diamonds, lumber, rubber, and will offer some fine new hotels, restaurants, and bars in the near future. Unfor- oil, and jute. tunately the remainder of the city has suffered greatly from the recent economic American travel firms began to make it more accessible in 1956. The problems of the state resulting from the last drought and today has little to offer except some rather depressing scenes of abject poverty. region is now becoming increasingly open to tourism. Such cities as Belém, Manaus, Santarem, and Porto Velho in Brazil, Leticia in Columbia, and SHOPPING. Fortaleza is famed for its lace work and here you will find intricate Iquitos in Peru, are easily reached by air and offer fine hotels, good food, hammocks, lace blouses, tablecloths, and beautifully embroidered skirts, all at in- excellent services, and fascinating sightseeing. credibly low prices. The best shopping areas are Central de Artesenato, Av. Santos The main attraction in the Amazon is the jungle. It extends into nine Dumont 1500 and the Centro de Turismo, downtown at Rua Senador Pompeu 350, countries of South America-French Guiana, Suriname, Guyana, Vene- open all day Sat. and until 1 P.M. on Sun. zuela, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Colombia, and Brazil. Most of these coun- tries have developed tourism facilities-most of them new-enabling the SÃO LUIS visitor to explore the basin in reasonable safety and comfort. However, as it is a primitive area, many tourist facilities call for "roughing it." HOTELS. Easily the best hotel in the city is the Quatro Rodás, Deluxe, Praia do Calhau (227-0244), located on the best beach in São Luis, with swimming pool, tennis courts, bar-nightclub, and one of the finest seafood restaurants in all of Brazil. Belém Highly recommended as a getaway spot for complete relaxation. Other hotels are: Vila Rica, Expensive, Praça Dom Pedro II 299 (222-4455), downtown with pool, The city of Belém is the gateway to the Amazon, 90 miles from the open bar, and restaurant; Grande Hotel São Francisco, Moderate, Conjunto São Francis- sea. Ultra-modern highrises dot the horizon, mingling with older red-tile- co (227-1155), pool, bar, and restaurant; Panorama Palace, Moderate, new, Rua roofed buildings. dos Pinheiros (227-0067), pool, bar, and restaurant. Belém was the first center of European colonization in the Amazon. The Portuguese settled here in 1616, using the city as a jumping off point for RESTAURANTS. Victor, Moderate, Quatro Rodas Hotel, excellent seafood, try the interior jungle region and also as an outpost to protect the mouth of their many varieties of white fish, all marvelous; Ricardão, Moderate, Praia do Ara- the Amazon River. A river port with access to the sea, Belém developed caji, for lunch; Solar do Ribeirão, Moderate, Rua Isaac Martins 141 (222-3068), famed for shrimp dishes. over the years into the major trade center for the Amazon. Like the upriver city of Manaus, Belém rode the ups and downs of Amazon booms and busts, alternately bursting with energy and money and slumping into rela- tive obscurity. All of this is evident in the architecture of the city where colonial structures survive along with rubber-era mansions and ostenta- THE AMAZON tious monuments to the civic spirit of past magnates. This is most evident in the "old city" where you will find the Our Lady of Nazare church with The Amazon region has figured so prominently in novels and films that its ornate interior replete with carrara marble and gold, the former city few people who come to see it don't have some preconceived notion of palace, the Laura Sodre palace and the Bolonha Palace, the latter three what they will find. Most often they expect an impenetrable jungle, herds examples of works by European architects brought to the city by the rub- of animals, flocks of swooping birds, and unfriendly Indians. In reality, ber barons. there is little groundcover vegetation, the trees range from 50 to 150 feet While here, walk to the Praça da Republica, faced by the Municipal in height, little animal life can be spotted, and the birds nest in the tops Theatre, to see the Victorian marble statues. The theatre is the third oldest of the high trees. in Brazil. Nearby is the handicrafts center run by the state tourism office, Francisco de Orellana, a Spanish Conquistador, sighted the river in Paratur. In this daily fair you will find wood, leather, and straw objects 1541 and was so taken by the size that he called it Rio Mar, the River plus handmade Indian goods and examples of the region's colorful and Sea. Exploration was slow and arduous, and as explorers forged their way distinctive pottery, called marajoara. through unknown territory, they encountered and fought what they Stop in the Goeldi Museum; in addition to an extensive collection of thought was a race of women warriors, whom they called Amazons. Indian artifacts and excellent photographs, there is a ZOO with many local Whether they actually believed they were face to face with something out animals in their natural surroundings. In the Jungle Park, a large area of of pagan mythology is not known; but it is easy to imagine that they felt virgin forest has been preserved and traversed by trails, which lead to re- the name "Amazon" and its implications were pointedly appropriate to flection pools with huge water lillies. Also worthwhile is the Agricultural this hostile land, and this name came to refer to the entire region. Institute, where rubber and Brazil nut trees are cultivated. Or, delve into Most of the Amazon basin has been explored and charted. The river history with a visit to an old rubber plantation. itself is 3,900 miles long, the second longest river in the world, and has Although Belém today is a bustling, modern city, the influence of the 17 tributaries each over 1,000 miles long plus over 50,000 miles of naviga- Amazon river and jungle remains strong. Despite its international airport, AMERICA BRAZIL the city still depends heavily on the river for contact with the outside the world. The highway to Brasilia was built to end Belém's isolation from dievelop the region and keep out invaders from Europe. To this end, the rest of the country but it is still a seasonal highway, subject to periodic Portuguese built their largest fort in Brazil in the city. Its remains are closures because of heavy rains and flooding along the route. Its today one of Macapá's main tourist attractions. The top attraction, however, is provided by nature. Called the pororoca, signts value to the city is in providing land access for farm products and main factured goods from the south. Buses also ply the highway but the manu- four- this extraordinary natural wonder occurs when the incoming ocean tide day trip is only for the adventuresome. crashes against the outflowing waters of the Amazon. The violent meeting Because it of its heavy dependence on the river, the port of Belém is today, produces churning waters and waves that reach 15 feet in height. The most find as was 300 years ago, an active trade and business center. Here markable aspect of the pororoca, however, is the sound that results. For salespitch that has survived the passage of time). Dozens of boats of the Ver-o-Peso market (literally "see the weight," a colonial-era you will mearly an hour before the final meeting of the waters, the air is filled with what sounds like a continuous crack of thunder, gradually building in in- types and sizes line up at the dock to unload their wares or haul on board all tensity. At the end, the rushing ocean waves sweep into the forest along Amazon goods destined for other ports. The market is a confusion of col. the river banks. The intensity of the pororoca is at its greatest during the ors and voices with vendors offering medicinal herbs, regional fruits, months January to May when the Amazon is in flood stage. It is truly cle roots from the jungle, alligator teeth, river fish (both stuffed and mira- for one of the most unforgettable sights in South America. but long on local color. eating) and good luck charms for the body and soul. Short on cleanliness The port of Belém itself is best seen by boat. Paratur operates a sternwh- Santarem boat, with a bar on board, leaves from the Praça do Pescador at 9 in eeler that provides tours of the port and nearby islands. The oldtime river Throughout modern times, the Amazon has been a magnet for adven- turers and dreamers. First wood, then rubber and today gold have served Ciatur morning on Saturdays and Sundays, returning at noon. Two private firms, the as the lures for thousands of would-be millionaires seeking to carve their with Novotel Hotel daily. Both of these tours include a stop along the river and Neytur, also conduct river tours, leaving from the pier at the fortunes out of the jungle. Many have left behind rusted monuments to their dreams. The most noteworthy of these is Fordlandia, an Amazon a short hike through the jungle. You can also arrange a boat boondoggle envisioned by Henry Ford who poured millions of dollars into to Jaguar Island, with its luxuriant vegetation and array of bird life. trip a vast rubber plantation destined to supply him with the raw material for insight into the lifestyle of the islanders. small river cuts through the island; a short boatride provides interesting A the tires of his cars. The scheme failed and today its remains can be seen in the jungle some 40 miles outside of Santarem, a city of 100,000 on the Amazon between Belém and Manaus. Santarem is now enjoying unprece- Marajó dented growth due to the latest Amazon boom cycle, this time built Just north of Belém and reached by boat or plane is the island of Marajó, around gold strikes that have been made in the region starting in 1981. forest larger than Denmark. The island has two distinct zones of vegetation- Originally settled by former soldiers of the Confederacy following the Civil Its island is a vast unspoiled tribute to the abundance of the Amazon region. and grassy plains-and is famed for its herds of water buffalo. The War, Santarem boasts names like Higgins and MacDonald. The Tropical Hotel Santarem offers superior accommodations and arranges local boat only city, Souré, also has excellent river beaches. The trip to the island trips on the Amazon and its tributaries. the takes 6 hours by boat or 30 minutes by plane and if you decide to The Brazilian shipping company, Enasa, is now operating two catama- night, make sure to choose the Pousada Marajoara located stay ran-style vessels between Belém and Manaus with a stop at Santarem. for riverfront and designed in the form of an Amazon indian village, just on the They boast 53 double and 8 quadruple air-conditioned cabins with private capturing the spirit of this unique part of the world. While on the right is- baths plus a small pool, bar, dining room and discotheque. The twice- steak and desserts made with buffalo milk. land, try out the distinctive local cuisine with such delicacies as buffalo monthly sailings are usually on Fridays from Belém arriving in Manaus the following Thursday. Departures from Manaus are on Friday arriving In general, dining in the Amazon is as different as everything else in in Belém on Wednesday. fish, armadillo, wild Amazon duck and a wide variety of river fish with the region. Besides buffalo, you will have the opportunity to eat piranha Manaus jaraquí, and Pacú (beware of anyone offering you alligator or turtle-the such exotic indian names as tucunaré, pirarucú, tambaquí, curimatá, A sprawling city of nearly one million, built in the densest part of the ical killing of both is against the law). For dessert try some of the region's jungle, Manaus has re-established its role as the key city of the Amazon fruits, found only in the Amazon, such as сириаси, graviola, taperebá, trop- basin after years of dormancy (the long-hoped-for expansion of the Ama- pupunha, biribá, bacabá, burití, abio, and acaí. zon basin did not attain the desired results despite the inauguration of sea- sonal road connections with Belém and Brasilia). Vestiges of Manaus' opu- Macapá lent rubber boom days still remain; the famous Opera House, completed in 1910, where Jenny Lind once sang and the Ballet Russe once danced, lies tal the territory of Amapá. The city, one of only five in the world that North of from Marajó is Macapá, an Amazon river city of 95,000 and capi- has recently been restored to its former splendor. The building is adorned with French ironwork and houses works of art and chinawear-seemingly directly on the equator, is 40 minutes flying time from Belém. Like out of place in the jungle. For further insight into the rubber boom period, Belém, Macapá was an Amazon outpost established by the Portuguese to visit a rubber plantation. SOUTH AMERICA BRAZIL 277 The Custom House and Lighthouse were imported piece by piece from Suriname Airways, Vasp. and Cruzeiro. To Leticia: Avianca and Cruzeiro. To Iqui- England and reassembled alongside the floating dock, built especially to tos: Faucett, Aero Peru, and Cruzeiro. accommodate the annual 40-foot rise and fall of the river. Contemporary Manaus is a combination of modern highrise buildings WHAT TO TAKE. Light summer clothing. Drip dry shirts and khaki slacks for scattered among lower, older stucco structures. Still, the city has more the men. Cotton dresses for the ladies or skirts and blouses. Pants and pantsuits than its share of hotels, restaurants, and unusual sights. Wander through for women are also acceptable. All shirts and blouses should be long-sleeved. All the City Market Building, where caged animals and parrots are offered colors may be worn with the exception of green. Very comfortable shoes are a must, for sale alongside exotic fruits and vegetables. and sneakers or tennis shoes will come in handy. In addition, for its jungle tours, For shopping, try the Credilar Teatro, an imposing edifice of native red- Amazon Explorers has the following suggestions and comments: (1) Rubber boots (high) for walk through the jungles. A must. (2) Hat or head cover. Flashlight- stone and glass. Or, taxi to the suburb of Cachoeirinha to see the Little Since electricity is limited. (3) Insect repellent (for overnight trips a mosquito net Church of the Poor Devil (Pobre Diablo) built by one poor laborer; it's will be supplied). (4) Knife, scissors, first aid kit, toilet paper, sewing kit, sunglasses. only 12 feet wide and 15 feet long. While in the suburbs, stop at the Sale- (5) Camera and plenty of film. Plastic bags to store exposed film. (6) All medications sian Mission Museum to see a complete documentary of the now vanished as needed. (7) Walking stick if needed will be supplied. (8) For fishermen: please order. "Floating City"; also, visit the Indian Museum operated by the same bring variety of hooks and line. (9) Binoculars-good quality binoculars for bird and animal watching-500 varieties of tropical Amazon birds are constantly For natural beauties, plan a trip to Taruma Falls and, of course, a boat around you. (10) As the life on the Amazon is much more relaxed and primitive ride beginning on the Rio Negro that detours onto a small tributary that than anywhere else in the world, you must be prepared for constant changes, delays, is completely covered by a green umbrella of giant trees and vines. Birdlife or cancellations of flights or steamers according to the moods of the river. Should is abundant in this region and with luck, you might spot a scampering such changes occur while traveling, your guide will notify you immediately and monkey high in the trees. The fascinating end to the voyage cruises is the make new arrangements accordingly. "Wedding of the Waters," where the coffee-brown Amazon and the inky- HOTELS. Once a wilderness area as far as hotel accommodations were con- intermingling. black Rio Negro meet and continue for miles toward the Atlantic before cerned, the Amazon has now thoroughly acceptable, even luxurious, lodging. For definitions of price categories, see "Facts at Your Fingertips." The Upper Regions BELÉM The upper reaches of the Amazon River are generally more interesting Deluxe than the lower portions because the upper river is only one-half mile wide and the channel flows close to either shore most of the time. Indian life Hilton, Av. Pres. Vargas 882, Praça da Republica (223-6500). Finest hotel in is far more evident. town, all rooms with private bath, air-conditioning; 2 bars and 2 restaurants. There is weekly tour/cruise service on the upper Amazon between Iqui- Moderate tos, Peru and Leticia, Colombia. Reconstructed especially for cruising on the Amazon, the M/V Rio Amazonas sails from its home port of Iquitos Equatorial Palace, Av. Braz Aguiar 612 (224-8855). One of the best in the city, with a bar, pool, and restaurant; the rooms have bath, air-conditioning, telephone, each Wednesday and arrives in Leticia Saturday morning; return sailings TV, and refrigerator. depart Leticia Saturday afternoons and arrive in Iquitos Tuesday morn- Excelsior Grao Para, Av. Presidente Vargas (222-3255). Rooms have bath, air- ings. Sailing times in both ports are coordinated with air service to/from conditioning, and telephone; bar and restaurant. Bogotá, Manaus, Iquitos and Lima. Novotel, Av. Bernardo Sayao 4804 (229-8011). 121 air-conditioned rooms near The Rio Amazonas carries 55 passengers in 16 air-conditioned twin cab- Rio Guama. ins with private bath and 10 non-air-conditioned twin/triple cabins with Regente, Av. Governador Jose Malcher 485. (224-0755). Rooms with private community bath facilities at half the cost. All meals, twice-daily shore ex- bath, air-conditioning, and TV. cursions, lectures and films on the flora, fauna, and Indian life are all in- Vila Rica Belém, Av. Julio Cesar (airport) (233-4222). Rooms have private bath, cluded in the cruise cost. Shore excursions are not duplicated on the in- air-conditioning, telephones, and TV; bar, restaurant, and pool. depth roundtrip cruise, six nights from Iquitos back to Iquitos. Inexpensive Central, Av. Presidente Vargas 290 (222-3011). PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR THE AMAZON Sagres, Av. Gov. Jose Malcher (228-3999). 136 rooms, all air-conditioned, TV, bar, restaurant, and pool. For definitions of price categories see "Facts at Your Fingertips." Vanja, Rua Benjamin Constant 1164 (222-6688). Rooms with private bath, air- WHEN TO GO. Since the Amazon Valley lies close to the Equator, winter and conditioning, and telephone. jungle, not in the cities or on the river. Average temperature is 80°F. Nights are summer in the usual sense do not occur. High humidity is common only in the deep MANAUS always cool. Rainy Season-December to June (high water). Dry Season-July to November (low water). Travel in both seasons is good. Deluxe Tropical, (238-5757). Built and operated by Tropical Hotels, a subsidiary of HOW TO GET THERE. From USA: Gateway is Miami, via Lloyd Boliviano, Varig, Faucett, and Suriname Airways, Avianca and Aeroperu. Varig, on good beach overlooking the Rio Negro. 341 air-conditioned rooms, swim- ming pool, excellent restaurant, night club. About 10 minutes from the new airport From S.A. to Manaus: Varig, Cruzeiro, Vasp, Lloyd Boliviano. To Belém: Varig, and 45 minutes from town. Best buy. Encycl Britan Brazil 143 on- language come many of the names of plants, animals, culture. It is in the modern novel that this literary move- by and places in Brazilian Portuguese. Some of these terms ment, however, has been most actively developed. Jorge li- of Tupi origin have come to be used in English, such as Amado has written in Terras do Sem Fim (translated as tapioca (a by-product of the manioc tuber) and cashew The Violent Land) of the frontier days of the early 20th de ig (acajú in Tupi). The Indian contribution to Brazilian century in the cocoa growing region of Bahia; and, in culture is most apparent in the Amazon Valley, where Jubiabá, of a heroic Negro character from the slums of V- many Indian customs and beliefs have been retained by Bahia. the rubber collectors and isolated farmers. Cultural institutions. Among the many modern uni- d- African influence on the Brazilian way of life is strong- versities and scientific institutions is the Butanan Insti- ne est in the old plantation region north along the coast from tute, in São Paulo, where important work on snake serum th Rio de Janeiro. Particularly in Salvador, the capital of has been done. The Institute Oswaldo Cruz in Rio de SS Bahia state, there are traditional dishes of African origin, Janeiro is famous for its scientific work in tropical dis- n- such as vatapá-made of rice flour, coconut oil, fish and ease. shrimps, red peppers, and many condiments-and aca- Modern mass media, such as the press, radio, and tele- rs le rajé, a beancake fried in coconut oil. In most northern vision, have expanded rapidly. Television was introduced coastal cities, there are religious cults of African origin, in 1950 in São Paulo. Twenty-one years later there were 1 56 television stations in the larger cities, with an esti- 0 called macumba in Rio de Janeiro and candomblé in Bahia, which are analogous to the voodoo, or vodum, mated 6,500,000 (1969) television receiving sets. Brazil- of Haiti. These cults worship West African deities as ians have also become a more sports-loving people. S. well as Catholic saints. Throughout Brazil, people tell Thousands crowd the beautiful beaches, and hundreds o folktales similar to the Uncle Remus stories told in the of thousands attend the soccer matches for which a e II southern United States. African influence is apparent in stadium seating 200,000 was constructed in Rio de Jan- Brazilian popular music, especially in the highly rhyth- eiro. (C.W.W./T.L.S.) e mic sambas. y Because of the great environmental variation over this Prospects for the future large country, there are marked regional differences in The armed forces have been the final arbiters of the Public Brazilian culture. The extreme southern state of Rio health political process in Brazil since the end of World War Grande do Sul is known for the gauchos, the cowboys II, and they seem likely to retain that function indefi- e of the Pampas. The southern states of Rio Grande do nitely. Sharing similar points of view with the urban S Sul, Paraná, and Santa Catarina are known for their middle income groups that have come to prominence in colonies of European farmers. The people of the pro- the past generation, the military officers are convinced r gressive city of São Paulo have the reputation of being that Brazil is destined to become a world power and that the energetic "yankees" of Brazil. Rio de Janeiro is it is the duty of the armed services to work toward that known for the cosmopolitan charm of its people, spoken end by providing efficient, nation-wide administration. of as cariocas; for the gaiety of its pre-Lenten carnival; This attitude is reinforced by their long-standing low and, of course, for the beauty of the city and its setting regard for professional politicians. Between 1945 and at the foot of green mountains on the Baía de Guanabara. 1964 no single political party was able to elect a presi- The northeastern semidesert is characterized by another dent of Brazil or a majority in Congress, a situation that type of cowboy, the vaqueiro, who dresses entirely in encouraged political irresponsibility. In these circum- leather for protection against the thorny bushes of the stances, and always at the behest of civilian political region. The Amazon Basin has the lonely seringueiro, the elements, the armed forces intervened on four occasions gatherer of wild rubber from the tropical forest. The to protect national institutions against the effects of what see coffee plantations of São Paulo and Paranã states, the they considered to be civilian incompetence. cocoa plantations in southern Bahia state, and the sugar Since the revolution of March 31, 1964, in contrast to plantations of the Northeast coast also provide distinctive their earlier practice, military leaders have retained settings for regional variations in the Brazilian way of direct command of the government and have carried life. out a major revision of the political system, progressively The state of the arts. The varied racial and cultural enhancing the authority of the national executive at the autuor past of Brazil and the striking regional differences are expense of state governors, state and national legis- reflected in Brazilian art, literature, and music. Without latures, political parties, and the Brazilian electorate. doubt the outstanding artist of the 18th century, during Through rigorous fiscal austerity, revision of the tax the colonial period, was the crippled mulatto architect structure, promotion of private enterprise, and heavy The and sculptor, Antônio Francisco Lisboa, who was known investment of public funds in the economic infrastruc- artistic and simply as Aleijadinho (the Little Crippled One). His ture, the post-1964 regimes have reversed the down- musical famous carvings in soapstone may be seen in the 18th- ward economic trend to give Brazil one of the highest heritage century churches of Minas Gerais state. rates of economic growth in the world. Ambitious high- Brazil's most famous modern artist, Cándido Portinari, way-building and colonization programs in the interior was the son of Italian immigrants; regional scenes are of the country and more modest support of education the subject of many of his paintings. The internationally and social welfare are designed to hasten the effective famous contémporary composer, Heitor Villa-Lobos, in- occupation and development of the national territory and corporated folk music from the Brazilian Negroes and the modernization of Brazilian society. Sustained eco- Indians into his compositions, as in his Bachianas Brasil- nomic growth and widespread public apathy in political eiras and Chôros. Likewise, contemporary Brazilian ar- matters will probably continue to be the norm in Brazil. chitecture, which stresses open terraces and large win- The military may be expected to remain at the centre of dows that are shuttered against the sun, has become the political stage until it feels that its "revolutionary" famous throughout the world; it is a new school of ar- policies are irreversible by a successor regime. chitecture well adapted to the tropical and semitropical (R.E.P.) climate. BIBLIOGRAPHY In the field of literature, the mixed racial and cultural The Land and people: FERNANDO BASTOS DE AVILA, Immi- heritage of Brazil is also felt strongly. The poetic, ima- gration in Latin America (1964), a text on the influx of ginative novels of Joaquin Maria Machado de Assis won foreigners and their influence in society and economy; international acclaim during the late 19th century. EUCLYDES DA CUNHA, Rebellion in the Backlands (1944), a fine A series of outstanding writers have appeared in the work on man's attempt to conquer northeast Brazil; MARVIN HARRIS, Town and Country in Brazil (1956), a good account 20th century, focussing upon regional subjects. A modern of Brazilian population settlement; INTERNATIONAL GEOGRAPH- Brazilian classic is Casa Grande e Senzala (translated ICAL UNION Excursion Guidebooks (1-9, 1956), valuable into English as The Masters and the Slaves) by Gilberto guidebooks covering the regions of Brazil; PRESTON E. JAMES, Freyre; it is a masterly social history of the Brazilian Latin America, 4th ed. (1969), a standard text including slave system of the northeast and the fusion of Indian, coverage of Brazil; WILLIAM F. JENKS (ed.), Handbook of Negro, and Portuguese social patterns into the national South American Geology (1956), covers the natural features THE WHITE HOUSE Office of the Press Secretary (Brasilia, Brazil) For Immediate Release December 3, 1990 REMARKS BY THE PRESIDENT TO THE JOINT SESSION OF THE BRAZILIAN CONGRESS Brazilian Congress Building Brasilia, Brazil 11:28 A.M. (L) THE PRESIDENT: Mr. President of the National Congress; and Mr. President of the Chamber of Deputies; and to our two most articulate speakers, Senator Tito and Deputy Fiuza; and Mr. Acting President of the Supreme Court; esteemed Papal Nuncio; and members of the diplomatic corps; Mr. Archbishop; Honorable Ministers of State and Governors of the Federal District; and honorable deputies and senators. It is a privilege, it is an honor to join you in this great hall of democracy. My thoughts today could have no better forum than this National Congress -- my words, no better audience than the people of Brazil. We meet at an extraordinary moment in our shared history. A time of serious challenges and important choices that calls for mutual respect, candor and collective will. I've met with many Latin and Caribbean leaders. And beyond any single issue that we've discussed, all of us have been galvanized by a new era of hope and opportunity throughout the Americas -- especially here in Brazil. By pioneering bold new economic reforms and consolidating its democracy, Brazil today is poised to enter the 21st century as a leader among nations. That is a tribute to a leader whose friendship and vision I value and respect -- a man who represents a new generation of democratic leadership now sweeping across Latin America -- your dynamic new President, Fernando Collor de Mello. President Collor has spoken eloquently of Brazil's rightful place at the table of the First World -- and I agree. I believe it is time, in fact, to end the false distinctions between the First World and Third World that have too long limited political and economic relations in the Americas. Let us instead speak of the New World. This hemisphere has always found strength in diversity. After all, here I stand, addressing Portuguese speakers in English, because of an Italian sailing on behalf of Spain five centuries ago. What we hold in common transcends borders and translates into any language. The nations of the Americas all struggled and gained independence from the old ways of the Old World -- ended the injustice of slavery and colonialism -- and built republics of promise and renewal around the dignity and the power of the individual and the rule of law. Now, as we approach the 500th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of Americas and the arrival of Cabral's Portuguese fleet in Brazil, this is our moment to chart the course for the New World -- a course of freedom, a course of democracy, a course of prosperity. We've all witnessed in wonder the dawn of democracy in Eastern Europe. But in the Americas, we, too, have seen extraordinary political and economic change that is transforming the face of this hemisphere; nowhere more so than right here, no more more so than in the great nation of Brazil. The changes you are carrying out in your MORE economy reducing the size of the state, privatizing enterprises, combating inflation and liberalizing trade, are the keys to growth and prosperity in the global economy of the 21st century -- whose outlines we already see today. I am here to tell you that you are not only on the right path, but the United States wants you to succeed and supports your efforts every step of the way. I believe that we've just begun to press forward, toward the real promise of the Americas. Territories may end at borders, but mankind's capacity for progress knows no bounds. Continents may end at the water's edge, but human potential knows only those limits set by human imagination. The Americas' role in the world is not defined by geography. It is defined by its people and its ideals. I truly believe that we are approaching a new dawn in the New World. Our thinking must be bold; our will, resolute. Our challenge now is to hew out of a wilderness of competing interests a new kind of opportunity in the Americas. To fulfill the New World's destiny, all of the Americas and the Caribbean must embark on a venture for the coming century: to create the first fully democratic hemisphere in the history of mankind. The first hemisphere devoted to the democratic ideal -- to unleash the power of free people, free elections, and free markets. Two weeks ago in Czechoslovakia, I spoke to a people that had paid dearly for its freedom. I talked about a new commonwealth of freedom, based on four key principles. This hemisphere already shares these convictions: an unshakable belief in the dignity and rights of man; the conviction that just government derives its power from the people; the belief that men and women everywhere must be free to enjoy the fruits of their labor; and, four, that the rule of law must govern the conduct of nations. Every nation that joins this commonwealth of freedom advances us one step closer to a new world order. We must persist until this victory for freedom and democracy is won completely. It is also within our power to make this hemisphere the largest free-trading partnership of sovereign nations in the world. From the northern-most reaches of Canada to the tip of Cape Horn. We see a future where growing opportunity, the power of technology and the benefits of prosperity are developed and shared by all. Change will not come easily. Economies, now dependent on protection and state regulation, must open to competition. The transition, for a time, will be painful. Many in the Americas will have to make serious adjustments to compete with Southeast Asia and to take advantage of the European market after 1992. But we are confident that solutions will be found --- by Brazilians, by Chileans, by Venezuelans -- by all of the Americas. And the results -- growing economies and sound currencies -- will bring unprecedented prosperity and growth for all our citizens to share. That was the vision of the Enterprise for the Americas Initiative that we announced last June. And Deputy Fiuza, I listened very carefully to your strong speech in this regard. And I thank you for those frank and forceful comments. The initiative calls for a major hemispheric effort to unify the New World in the three key areas of trade, investment, and debt. In trade, our first priority should be to promote long-term growth. And the most effective first step is the successful conclusion of the Uruguay Round, now in its final stages in Brussels. An end to export subsidies on agricultural goods and new openings for developing country exports mean new market opportunities and a higher standard of living for the farmer in Para, the textile worker in Santa Catarina, and the engineer in Sao Paulo. But the Uruguay Round and bilateral trade agreements are only first steps. The Southern Cone Common Market, now developing under the leadership of your President and his colleagues in neighboring countries, is another major step toward the world's first MORE nemispheric tree tr zone. To promote new investment in the Americas, the dead hand of state control must be lifted. We must allow entrepreneurs the flexibility to adapt, create, and produce. So, as we chart a course for the future of the New World, let us hold firmly in our minds an unshakable conviction in the importance and benefit of free enterprise. Let us work together so that any man or woman who wants to launch a new enterprise views the state as an ally, not as an obstacle -- and all who pursue the fruits of the free market see other nations not as threats to sovereignty, but as partners in trade and mutual prosperity. Individuals cannot succeed if government is burdened by debt. so the third leg of our Enterprise for the Americas Initiative is a comprehensive commitment to work with Brazil and others in Latin America to restructure U.S. official debt. Our new approach to official debt will complement commercial debt restructuring through the Brady Plan. I understand the importance to Brazil and, indeed, to the international financial community of reaching a new and effective agreement on commercial debt. I believe, through your program of economic reform, you have taken the first crucial step toward that goal. Global capital flows will be vital to your development, and we are ready to assist wherever possible. We've submitted a request to our Congress for the authority to implement our proposals. But we know that real solutions must involve all of us in the Americas. That's why we envision a permanent partnership between all the nations of the Americas, to confront challenges that know no borders. We envision a hemisphere where a collaborative commitment is shared to protect our environmental legacy. There can be no sustained economic growth without respect for the environment. That's why the Enterprise for the Americas Initiative joins environmental protection with bilateral debt relief -- not as a challenge to national sovereignty, not as a challenge to the sovereignty, in this case of Brazil, but as an affirmation of shared international interests. Senator Tito -- and I do appreciate, sir, your using this podium for a frank exchange here -- talked about partners in growth, I believe you said, sir -- partners in growth rather than shareholders of misery. That is what you want, and that is what we want. I encourage Brazil and other creditor nations to convert debt into funds for the environment. The entire world stands in awe of Brazil's unique endowment of wildlife, trees and plants in the Amazon and the Atlantic rain forests. No nation on Earth -- none -- is as rich in flora and fauna, with all of their potential to provide future medicines and foods, and crops and fibers. Your hosting of the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development in 1992 places Brazil in a position of true global leadership. We hope that conference will mark the culmination of a number of initiatives to protect and wisely utilize the world's resources. We also are challenged to make ours a hemisphere where sovereign nations are joined in collective determination to eradicate the disease of drugs. On this one, the time for blame is long over. We in the United States recognize that we must do more to reduce what seems to you as insatiable demand. And you understand that the spreading tentacles of the drug trade threaten any democratic society. President Collor has taken a strong position against drugs for the sake of youth in Brazil. I know full well it is a demand problem as well as a supply problem for my country; and I pledge the full efforts of my government to continue to dampen demand. There is only one answer to the drug problem in this hemisphere. And that is to defeat these narco traffickers who prey on our children -- once and for all. And finally, in this era of great challenges around the MORE world, we want the estern Hemisphere to be i odel to the world for security, stability and peace. Together, let us ensure that this hemisphere stands united to prevent the spread of nuclear weapons or new, more dangerous, ballistic missiles anywhere in the world. We hope that all countries in this hemisphere will follow Brazil's and Argentina's recent decision to bring the nonproliferation treaty, Tlatelolco, into force. I want to applaud, as many other nations have done, the recent announcement by Brazil and Argentina that together they will ensure that no nuclear program in their countries is used for anything but peaceful purposes. We applaud your decision to move forward on full-scope nuclear safeguards. But your leadership today goes beyond this hemisphere. Just as Brazil made valiant contributions to the cause of freedom in World War II, you were among the very first to implement the sanctions against Iraq. I realize the sacrifices that Saddam's brutality has caused this nation and its people -- has caused many nations around the world. In this country, I was told this morning, the impact -- $5 billion in higher oil prices alone for one year -- $5 billion to your economy, struggling to move forward, because of the brutality and the aggression of Saddam Hussein. In Czechoslovakia, a country that knows about aggression, Vaclav Havel told me, $1.5 billion just because of the aggression of Saddam Hussein. I salute your leadership in the world's community and law. united stand against Iraq's aggression and in defense of the rule of Our nations, long ago, achieved independence from the old World. And so now let us work toward a new declaration of interdependence among the American nations of the New World. If, as Jose Bonifacio once said, "Brazilians are enthusiasts of a beautiful ideal," let us not limit the New World's potential with old thinking. After the half millennium we've had in this hemisphere to form our nations and find our way, let the nations of the Americas now fulfill their common potential. Standing on this central plateau, soon to be the seat of great decisions, President Kubitschek said this: "I look once again at the future of my country and see this dawn with unyielding faith and unlimited confidence in its great destiny." My friends, our neighbors, let the new dawn come to Brazil and to the New World, and let us fulfill the promise of these great lands. Thank you very much. And may God bless the people of Brazil. Thank you very, very much. (Applause.) END 11:50 A.M. (L) Nixon 1974 [75] Mar. II Public Papers of the Presidents 75 Remarks on Mrs. Nixon's Departure for Venezuela and 76 Ren Brazil. March II, 1974 Ban Mr. Ambassador, Mr. Minister, and all Latin America and in the Western Hemi- of our very good friends who have been so Commander sphere, and that trip will bring that to the kind to come out here to see Mrs. Nixon Mahon, all attention, we think, of the whole world. off on her journey to Caracas and then to here at the 1 And so with that, I will now turn the Brasilia: platform podium over to Mrs. Nixon. She distinguishe Let me say, first of all, that as she leaves I am very says she doesn't like to make speeches, but on this journey, that it will be not only in I do know that the reporters who have ac- for being Sp an official capacity-she will extend, of companied her when she traveled alone to generously course, congratulations and best wishes to this medalli Peru and also to Africa over the past 2 President Pérez of Venezuela and Presi- years have said that she is the best ambas- organization dent Geisel of Brazil-but she will do think that t sador the United States has. I proudly something she has done on all of her present her to you. pay a tribut travels around the world-she has I have dc MRS. NIXON. Thank you. traveled more than any First Lady in his- I am so pleased that you are here to to do it espe tory-she will bring the best wishes of the the Diamon send me off in this manner. I enjoyed American people to the people of all the the high school band, Killian High School as an organ countries she visits. And that is, of course, band, and all of these Scouts and school- niversary of what we want them to hear. Members of children who are out, and the oldsters who And we think it is particularly appro- the Senate. could get away from their jobs today. priate that she is taking off here from I do want to say that I shall certainly, As you ha Florida, because Florida is a State which time memb in just 3 hours and 40 minutes, be giving knows so well the tremendous contribu- a member your best wishes and your affection to tion that has been made to this State and the people of Venezuela, my first stop, organization this Nation by those of Latin background. and then later, on the 15th, to the people safely say th And going from Florida, first to Vene- of Brazil. ners, convel zuela and then to Brazil, she will be able of the VFW I look forward to seeing you, when I to see there those nations that are our ure in Amei can return home, and bringing you greet- closest neighbors and our closest friends. have had th ings from our good friends. And I should emphasize that in these I know tl times when so much emphasis has been NOTE: The President spoke at 11:45 a.m. at as Vice Pre Homestead Air Force Base, Fla., where Mrs. placed upon, as it should be, the new rela- Nixon was leaving to serve as head of the President fc tions with the People's Republic of China U.S. delegation to inaugural ceremonies for it in private and the Soviet Union, with our relations President Carlos Andrés Pérez of Venezuela particularly with the great countries of Europe, that and President Ernesto Geisel of Brazil. of what this In his opening words, the President referred we must always remember that here in who serves to Venezuelan Ambassador Andrés Aguilar and this Western Hemisphere, our closest Brazilian Minister-Counselor Celso Diniz. land. It is V friends and neighbors are the people in an organiza sions are n United Stat this organiz interest and is the VFW 256 Richard Nixon, 1974 Mar. 16 [8o] dience that despite the fact that I at times and while I leave the podium, I don't may have appeared to be a bit partisan, expect to leave the Presidency until Janu- I didn't intend to be at all. [Laughter] ary 20, 1977. The only reason that I am going out is NOTE: The question-and-answer session began that they said you were waiting for me to at 1:02 p.m. in the International Ballroom leave. [Laughter] Let me say I have ap- of the Conrad Hilton Hotel, Chicago, III. It was broadcast live on nationwide radio and preciated your response and your patience, television. 80 Remarks at Nashville, Tennessee, on Mrs. Nixon's Return From Venezuela and Brazil. March 16, 1974 MRS. NIXON. I can tell you that it is Second, I wanted to express to the mighty nice to be back here in Tennessee, people here our appreciation for your where we always have so many friends coming out in such great numbers. who come out to welcome us. As you know, we are here for the open- This is truly a wonderful homecoming ing of the Opry House, the new one, and and a wonderful birthday surprise to have I think you will be interested to know that so many friends here with your signs and last year in the White House, we had all these Scouts who are out and all the country music in the White House on beautiful roses from the Girl Scouts. Pat's birthday. So we decided to come to I appreciate everything, and I bring country music in order to celebrate the you messages today from leaders, from second time here today. leaders all over the world, because our But the particular point I would like delegation was one of 88 who met in to make is with reference to the trip that Venezuela and also in Brazil for the Mrs. Nixon, my wife Pat, has just taken inaugural ceremonies. And I had a chance to Latin America, and the trips that she to visit with these leaders. They wanted has taken with me all over the world, and me to convey the message that they sup- what they mean to all of us, and par- port us in our quest for peace and that ticularly what they mean to the young they have good will and good wishes for people who are here, your children, and all the people of the United States. your future. THE PRESIDENT. Governor and Mrs. You think, for example, of going to Dunn, Senator Baker, Senator Brock, and Latin America, to Venezuela and Brazil, the Members of Congress, all of the dis- and how far it is, and you wonder what all tinguished guests who are here: this means to your future. And I am sure I want to express appreciation to all of you must have thought the same thing at you for coming out here today for two the time that you saw on television our reasons. First and foremost, because as visit to the People's Republic of China, you know, this is my wife Pat's birthday, where one-fourth of all the people in the and I don't know any place in this coun- world live, and what it means to you. try where she could get a finer, warmer And you must have thought that, too, welcome than right here in middle when we went to the Soviet Union, where Tennessee. you have the most powerful nation in the 277 [8o] Mar. 16 Public Papers of the Presidents world in terms of anyone who might be a in this great State of Tennessee, as indi- 8I potential adversary of the United States, cated by the votes of your Senators and and what that visit and the other develop- your Congressmen, the people of Tennes- ments that we have discussed mean to see support strongly my position that the Roy A you. United States must never become the propri: I will tell you this very simply: What second strongest nation in the world. Birthd it means is that we believe very strongly And I know, too, that here in the State imposi that our generation, this generation that of Tennessee, there is that strong charac- dent, 1 now has the responsibility for govern- ter, that patriotism which will see to it THI ment, owes something to you and future that America is not only strong militarily fession generations. but that we will be the world's leader, rassed We have had four wars in this century, which it is our destiny to be, because with- haven' and young Americans have fought and out our leadership there cannot be peace. is a Yo died very bravely for their country. We And that brings me back to Mrs. Nixon. In t] have never gained anything out of those Sometimes we think of the strength of mis- wars except the chance for other coun- [The P siles and other weapons that we have. But the pia: tries to be free and to build a peace. just as important is the sympathy, the And now what we want is not just understanding which can only come from Just peace in our time but peace in your time- know, people-to-people contact. She brings from and I am speaking particularly to all the father the people of South America to the people young people here-we want a generation Patricl of the United States their affection, and of peace. And in order to do that, it is she brought to them, better than anyone always necessary to talk to people who even rick's ] else could, the feeling that every Ameri- might be your opponents and might think So, can has for everybody in the world. very differently from you, rather than to these f Let us clearly understand, we want to have the option of fighting them. That i be the enemies of no people in the world. It also is necessary-and this is the im- So, We want to be friends with all people in portant thing to remember-that the think the world, but we will maintain our United States never forget that the it. Just strength so that America can play the strength of America, its military strength, great role of peacemaker in the years [The P its economic strength, the character of ahead and that this young generation will America, is essential if we are going to MR. be the first in this century to enjoy a gen- be able to maintain the peace of the well a eration of peace, and with your help we world. are a will do it. And when I come here to the heartland Aloi Thank you. of America, just let me say two things. certair NOTE: The remarks began at 6:14 p.m. at From a military standpoint, I know that going Nashville Metropolitan Airport. as a c going 1 At from h country doing t ances. 278 J.F.K. 1961 [103] Mar. 29 Public Papers of the Presidents I am hopeful that the Congress, spurred be recommended by the Administration ple share th by the adoption of the 23d amendment, providing the District of Columbia the right more happy will act favorably on legislative proposals to of home rule. here in the I I hope Bra have been fa 104 Letter to Secretary Stahr Concerning Discontinuance of a warm com We shall Commercial Operations by the Panama Line. March 31, 1961 in strengthe Released March 31, 1961. Dated March 29, 1961 ] Dear Mr. Secretary: alternative transportation resources in order 106 Me: I have reviewed the report on the Panama to select the course of action which would An Line, prepared by the Bureau of the Budget best serve the Government's interest and in consultation with you and other respon- most adequately and economically meet the Ap sible authorities. I am in accord with the Canal Zone's particular transportation re- APRIL 4th views expressed that continued commercial quirements. It is my further desire that you the signing operations of the Panama Line would not render appropriate assistance to those em- We are j be in the public interest. You should, there- ployees displaced by this action in finding achievement fore, take appropriate measures to discon- other employment. cooperative tinue the Line's commercial operations by Sincerely, JOHN F. KENNEDY gaged. But April 20, 1961. obligations It is my desire that you investigate fully NOTE: The letter was released at Palm Beach, Fla. will deman the will to S and to adva 105 Recorded Greetings to the President and People of Brazil. tion with 01 April 3, 1961 Murillo Neri (Rio de Janeiro announcer): copy of Lincoln's Gettysburg Address to your 107 Me Mr. President, as you know, our President, vigorous, dynamic new President, who seeks Me Janio Quadros is a big admirer of Abraham for Brazil what we seek for the United States Lincoln. You have right on your desk a and indeed for the people of all our hemi- document that was given us by Lincoln's sphere: a better life under freedom and IT GIVES Museum. I would like to very much if you justice. greetings of can sign this document or put a dedicatory Mr. Neri: Mr. President, we thank you the United for our President, Janio Quadros. very, very much. And I would like to ask at Yaound PRESIDENT KENNEDY: It is a great pleasure you another thing, if it is possible for you to importance for me to have this opportunity to inscribe a say some words to our Brazilian people, Mr. It is a I copy of the Gettysburg Address to the Presi- President, please. consultation dent of Brazil. PRESIDENT KENNEDY: It is a great pleasure cooperation Abraham Lincoln does not, I think, merely for me to have the opportunity to extend my too often belong to the United States now, he belongs greetings to the people of Brazil. Yours is an to all those who believe in freedom, who Over 20 years ago, as a young man, I nations, de believe in the rights of man. And therefore journeyed to your country. I know some- the welfare it is a great pleasure for me to inscribe this thing of its history, and I know that its peo- nership in 246 John F. Kennedy, 1961 Apr. 6 [107] ple share the same basic aspirations for a viding for our people. more happy and just life that my own people It is a great pleasure, through television here in the United States have. and films, to have a chance to visit Brazil. I hope Brazil and the United States, which Mr. Neri: Thank you, Mr. President. have been fast friends in the past, will have NOTE: The program was recorded on film and tape a warm comradeship in the future. in the President's office at the White House for We shall do our best to join with Brazil broadcast to the Brazilian people. in strengthening our hemisphere, and pro- 106 Message to the Secretary General of NATO on the 12th Anniversary of the Signing of the North Atlantic Treaty. April 3, 1961 APRIL 4th marks the 12th Anniversary of the globe who believe in the freedom of man, the signing of the North Atlantic Treaty. we can and we will succeed. We are justified in taking pride in our Let us on this Anniversary look to the achievements in NATO and in those other future in this spirit. If we do the cause of cooperative endeavors in which we are en- freedom will prevail. gaged. But this day also reminds us of our JOHN F. KENNEDY obligations to the future. The years ahead [His Excellency Alberico Casardi, Acting Secretary will demand of us all courage, sacrifice and General, North Atlantic Treaty Organization, Paris] the will to seize every opportunity to secure NOTE: The message was released at Palm Beach, and to advance human liberty. In coopera- Fla. tion with one another, and all those around 107 Message to the Conference of Chiefs of State of African Nations Meeting in Yaoundé. April 6, 1961 [ Released April 6, 1961. Dated March 25, 1961 ] IT GIVES ME deep pleasure to send the to my country and it deserves the emulation greetings of the Government and people of of us all. I congratulate you and pledge the the United States to you who are gathered readiness of my country to provide concrete at Yaoundé to consult on matters of high support, if you so desire, for your efforts to importance in your mutual interest. make effective a permanent organization to It is a particular pleasure because your foster your economic cooperation and de- consultations represent the kind of regional velopment. You have our warmest good cooperation that strengthens hope in a world wishes for every success. too often divided and torn by dispute. NOTE: The chiefs of state of 12 African nations Yours is an association of free and sovereign participated in the conference, during which the nations, dedicated to constructive action for African and Malagasy Organization for Economic the welfare of your peoples. It is this part- Cooperation was formed. nership in freedom that is most impressive 247 [284] July I3 Public Papers of the Presidents Interior as the first chairman of the Council. our basic water supply so it will be avail- C The first major task of the Water Re- able when and where needed and in accept- its 1 sources Council will be to establish, subject able quality and quantity-and we have no grea to my approval, standards for formulating time to lose. The planning authorized by Stat and evaluating water resources projects. this legislation will provide a vital tool for ecor These standards will replace those currently achieving effective water resources manage- ticip in effect. ment. How Finally, the proposed legislation would Also enclosed is a section-by-section and authorize financial assistance to the States analysis of the bill. A similar letter is being need enabling them to play a more effective role sent to the President of the Senate. jecti in planning for the development and con- Sincerely, stan servation of water and related land resources. JOHN F. KENNEDY with This is an essential element in promot- ing sound, comprehensive water resources NOTE: This is the text of identical letters addressed whi to the Honorable Lyndon B: Johnson, President of conc planning. the Senate, and to the Honorable Sam Rayburn, T We have a national obligation to manage Speaker of the House of Representatives. to C( the 285 Statement by the President Concerning a Plan for the Tog wor Development of Northeast Brazil. July 14, 1961 Wes exte NO AREA in this hemisphere is in greater Development Agency for Northeast Brazil The or more urgent need of attention than (SUDENE)-to come to Washington and with Brazil's vast Northeast. Covering more review projected plans for the development than 600,000 square miles and containing help of the Northeast. Dr. Furtado has pre- and almost 25 million people, Northeast Brazil pared-through the agency of SUDENE- to th is one of South America's most crowded and a five year plan for the Northeast designed T poverty-stricken regions. The average per to reconstruct the economy of that area and Unit capita income barely reaches $100, in 18 bring hope for a better life to its people. Northeastern cities infant mortality is be- prov The plan is the result of two years' study, east tween 25 and 35 percent, and the area as a and has the firm support of President Quad- whole suffers from overpopulation, recurrent ros and the Brazilian Congress. drought, food shortages, and high illiteracy. The plan envisages a total cost of $900 286 To these problems is added a yearly popu- million dollars over a five year period; lation increase of 600,000. $500 million to be supplied by the Brazilians; This area with its poverty, hunger and and $126 million by international institutions consequent discontent is a crucible of social, such as the Inter-American Bank or IDA. Dea economic and political problems-problems Of the remainder, the plan permits provid- which have unmistakable implications for I ing almost half through the supply of surplus the future development of Brazil and the the ( foodstuffs. High officials of the United bia ( security of the entire hemisphere. States Government-in meetings chaired by To study cooperative methods of dealing store Milton Barall of the Department of State- local with these problems the United States in- have spent this week in preliminary discus- vited Dr. Celso Furtado-Director of the proce sions of the program with Dr. Furtado. can 508 John F. Kennedy, 1961 July 15 [286] Certainly a plan of this magnitude, with providing substantial assistance this year to its wealth of technical detail, will require a the entire country. And the ICA, on re- great deal of further study. And the United quest by the Brazilian Government, is pre- States intends to dispatch a group of pared to immediately provide technicians economists and technicians to Brazil to par- for research and technical assistance in river ticipate with SUDENE in such studies. valley development, soil utilization, water However, although the details of the plan supply, basic education and other fields to and the magnitude of resources involved which SUDENE is giving priority attention. need further examination, the overall ob- In the course of Dr. Furtado's visit we jectives of SUDENE appear to be sub- have concluded initial agreements for the stantially sound, realistic, and in harmony supply-as part of the Food for Peace Pro- with those of the Alliance for Progress; gram-of grain and lard as an emergency which itself is an outgrowth of the Brazilian reserve for flood or drought. In addition, concept of Operation Pan-America. food will be used to aid the resettlement of Therefore, the United States is prepared emigrants from the Northeast area. Nego- to cooperate with SUDENE to help it realize tiations are also continuing for the donation the objectives embodied in this program. of U.S. foodstuffs to be used as partial wages Together the United States and Brazil will in connection with economic development work with international agencies and other projects. Western nations in an effort to mobilize the The visit of Dr. Furtado has helped to external resources which may be necessary. increase our understanding of the problems The United States is prepared to cooperate of Northeast Brazil. The systematic study, with SUDENE, on a continuing basis, to planning and concern which the Goverment help solve the problems of the Northeast of Brazil has devoted to the area holds high and to bring economic and social progress promise for the betterment of the living to that hard-pressed region. conditions of its 25 million people. And the The Governments of Brazil and the United States intends to play a continuing United States have already cooperated in role in helping our sister Republic of Brazil providing a great deal of assistance to North- meet this urgent challenge. east Brazil just as we have cooperated in 286 Letter to the President of the Senate and to the Speaker of the House Concerning Local Self-Government in the District of Columbia. July 15, 1961 Dear Mr. : the responsibility to the people of the Dis- I am transmitting for consideration by trict for dealing with their municipal prob- the Congress a proposed District of Colum- lems is long overdue. It is time to eliminate' bia Charter Act. The draft bill would re- the last legal and constitutional anomaly in store to District residents the basic right to the United States and to reaffirm our belief local self-government through the elective in the principle that government should be process, a right enjoyed by all other Ameri- responsible to the governed. can citizens. Restoration of suffrage and The draft bill authorizes (I) a locally 509 JFK. 1962 [488] Oct. 25 Public Papers of the Presidents peacefully resolving the crisis. This would involve identical message to the Chairman of the Council of pleasure, Mr. Pr a voluntary suspension of all arms shipments to Cuba Ministers of the Soviet Union. Mr. Thant's message, ship established on the one hand, he said, and a voluntary suspension dated October 24, is printed in the Department of to the United : of the quarantine measures involving Cuban-bound State Bulletin (vol. 47, p. 740). anxious to rene ships on the other. He believed a 2 or 3 weeks' For the U.S. statement before the Security Council, suspension period would greatly ease the situation referred to by the President, see the Department of relations. and give time for the parties to meet and discuss the State Bulletin (vol. 47, p. 723). I should like problem. He also stated that he had sent an casion to congr on your recent lowed with gr 489 White House Statement on the Soviet Missile Sites in Cuba. and orderly prc October 26, 1962 million Brazilia THE DEVELOPMENT of ballistic missile activities have continued at the Medium sites in Cuba continues at a rapid pace. Range Ballistic Missile sites resulting in 491 White Through the process of continued surveil- progressive refinements at these facilities. lance directed by the President, additional to Into For example, missiles were observed parked evidence has been acquired which clearly in the open on October 23. Surveillance on SEVERAL inco reflects that as of Thursday, October 25, def- October 25 revealed that some of these same inite buildup in these offensive missile sites posals have be missiles have now been moved from their within the last 1 continued to be made. The activity at these original parked positions. Cabling can be the one just ma sites apparently is directed at achieving a full seen running from the missile-ready tents to operational capability as soon as possible. proposal broadc power generators nearby. security of na There is evidence that as of yesterday, In summary, there is no evidence to date October 25, considerable construction activ- Hemisphere. ] indicating that there is any intention to ity was being engaged in at the Intermediate dismantle or discontinue work on these mis- sphere countrie Range Ballistic Missile sites. Bulldozers subject to the t sile sites. On the contrary the Soviets are current crisis-1 and cranes were observed as late as Thursday rapidly continuing their construction of mis- ernment in se actively clearing new areas within the sites sile support and launch facilities, and serious and improving the approach roads to the weapons into C attempts are under way to camouflage their launch pads. efforts. sive weapons is Since Tuesday October 23 missile related pace. The firs with this imme sensible negotia 490 Message to President Goulart Requesting Postponement of a It is therefor States that as a Scheduled Visit to Brazil. October 26, 1962 sideration of a [ Released October 26, 1962. Dated October 24, 1962 ] Cuban bases m Dear Mr. President: compels me to request your concurrence in a In view of the disappointment Mrs. Ken- postponement once again of our visit to nedy and I experienced last July in having Brazil. If you agree, I suggest that we con- 492 Messa to postpone our visit to Brazil, we have been sult after the first of the coming year to agree Soviet especially anxious that nothing should again upon the new date on which Mrs. Kennedy require us to defer the pleasure of visiting and I would visit Brazil. Dear Mr. Chai for the first time your great country and be- Mrs. Kennedy and I are looking forward I have read coming acquainted with its people. Un- particularly to visiting Brazil because of the with great care fortunately, the recent challenge to the peace long-standing friendship and cooperation of your desire and security of this hemisphere posed by the between the governments and peoples of our the problem. Soviet offensive military buildup in Cuba re- two countries in the pursuit of peace and a be done, howe quires my presence in the United States and happier world society. I also recall with offensive missil 812 John F. Kennedy, 1962 Oct. 27 [492] pleasure, Mr. President, the personal friend- October 7 to choose their legislators and ship established with you during your visit state executives was to me a demonstration to the United States last April, and I am of the strength and vitality of democratic anxious to renew and deepen our personal government in your country. relations. With best wishes, I should like to take advantage of this OC- JOHN F. KENNEDY casion to congratulate the people of Brazil [H. E. João Belchior Goulart, President of the Re- on your recent elections which I have fol- public of the United States of Brazil, Rio de Janeiro] lowed with great interest. The peaceful NOTE: President Goulart's reply was released with and orderly process by which some fifteen President Kennedy's letter. million Brazilian voters went to the polls on 49I White House Statement on Soviet Proposals Relating to International Security. October 27, 1962 SEVERAL inconsistent and conflicting pro- must be rendered inoperable; and further posals have been made by the U.S.S.R. shipment of offensive weapons to Cuba must within the last twenty-four hours, including cease-all under effective international the one just made public in Moscow. The verification. proposal broadcast this morning involves the As to proposals concerning the security of security of nations outside the Western nations outside this Hemisphere, the United Hemisphere. But it is the Western Hemi- States and its allies have long taken the lead sphere countries and they alone that are in seeking properly inspected arms limita- subject to the threat that has produced the tion, on both sides. These efforts can con- current crisis-the action of the Soviet Gov- tinue as soon as the present Soviet-created ernment in secretly introducing offensive threat is ended. weapons into Cuba. Work on these offen- NOTE: An unofficial translation of Chairman Khrush- sive weapons is still proceeding at a rapid chev's message of October 27 is published in the pace. The first imperative must be to deal Department of State Bulletin (vol. 47, p. 741). with this immediate threat, under which no Stating that he had studied the President's reply to Mr. U Thant "with great satisfaction," Mr. Khrush- sensible negotiation can proceed. chev proposed the removal of missiles from both It is therefore the position of the United Cuba and Turkey under U.N. supervision. He States that as an urgent preliminary to con- further proposed that the Soviet Government give a sideration of any proposals work on the solemn pledge to respect the frontiers and sover- Cuban bases must stop; offensive weapons eignty of Turkey, and that the U.S. Government make a similar statement with regard to Cuba. 492 Message to Chairman Khrushchev Calling for Removal of Soviet Missiles From Cuba. October 27, 1962 Dear Mr. Chairman: weapons systems in Cuba capable of offensive I have read your letter of October 26th use to be rendered inoperable, under effective with great care and welcomed the statement United Nations arrangements. of your desire to seek a prompt solution to Assuming this is done promptly, I have the problem. The first thing that needs to given my representatives in New York in- be done, however, is for work to cease on structions that will permit them to work out offensive missile bases in Cuba and for all this weekend-in cooperation with the Act- 813 Nixon 1971 [380] Dec. 2 Public Papers of the Presidents So if you raise the price of corn, be sure dent, there are some things-[laughter] The consu that you don't do it at the expense of the THE PRESIDENT. Thank you. with Japa hog producers. NOTE: The exchange of remarks began at 5:05 now with SECRETARY BUTZ. Well, now, Mr. Presi- p.m. in the Oval Office at the White House. try in Soi consultati The fac 381 Remarks to the National Conference on Corrections, our count Williamsburg, Virginia. December 6, 1971 that I hav with you t AT LONG last, this Nation is coming to that are speedy and fair. But let us also and, also, realize that the process of justice cannot remember that the protection of society portance end with the slamming shut of prison depends largely on the correction of the forward to gates. criminal. pheric rel Ninety-eight out of every hundred I look to this National Conference on the world i criminals who are sent to prison come Corrections to focus the Nation's attention spots arou back out into society. That means that on this problem, and to come up with the trips, f every American concerned with stopping specific recommendations to blaze the trail ing to oth crime must ask this question: Are we do- of prison reform. United St: ing all we can to make certain that many Locking a convict up is not enough. We closest frie more men and women who come out of must also offer him the keys of education, are in this prison will become law-abiding citizens? of rehabilitation, of useful training, of you as a cl The answer to that question today, after hope-the keys he must have to open the for so man centuries of neglect, is no. We have made gates to a life of freedom and dignity. Mr. Pres important strides in the past 2 years, but NOTE: The President's audiotaped remarks our talks b let us not deceive ourselves: Our prisons were played at the first plenary session of the that you h are still colleges of crime, not what they conference in the Williamsburg Convention office in bu should be-the beginning of a way back to Center. The conference, convened at the Presi- a productive life within the law. dent's request and sponsored by the Law En- the progres forcement Assistance Administration and the period. Th To turn back the wave of crime, we Bureau of Prisons, Department of Justice, was have called must have more effective police work. We held on December 5-8, 1971. congratulat must have court reform to insure trials know that as we look south, exte: 382 Remarks of Welcome to President Emílio Garrastazú the people Médici of Brazil. December 7, 1971 Thank y that we CO President Médici, Mrs. Médici, our dis- visit to our country could not have been tinguished guests from Brazil, and our at a more important time from the stand- NOTE: The the East Roc distinguished guests here from the United point of both countries. welcome wit States: As you know, I will be leaving for a scheduled to Mr. President, because of this inclement trip to Peking and one to the Soviet Union. because of 1 weather, it may seem to some that this is Prior to that time, I consider it vitally im- greeted Presio not the most fortunate time for a visit, but portant to have discussions with our closest Portico and the welcomin I want you to know that I believe that your friends in at least the largest countries. 1164 Richard Nixon, 1971 Dec. 7 [382] The consultations with nations of Europe, President Médici spoke in Portuguese. His with Japan, with Canada last night, and remarks were translated by an interpreter as follows: now with Brazil-Brazil, the largest coun- try in South America-are part of that Mr. President: consultative process. It was with great joy and emotion that I accepted your invitation to visit the United The fact that you could be here now in States of America. This appeared to be, to me, our country will provide the opportunity a most propitious opportunity, not only to that I have looked forward to, to discuss reaffirm our long and steadfast friendship but with you these visits that I will be making also to discover the basis for a new dialogue- and, also, to have other discussions of im- brotherly, frank, and objective-between the United States of America and the Federative portance to our two countries. I look Republic of Brazil. forward to getting your views on hemis- At this important moment of the national pheric relations because, as the eyes of history of both our countries, they find them- the world inevitably are on various trouble selves desirous to establish, through us, a new spots around the world far away, and on point of departure for a closer cooperation in the future. the trips, for example, that I shall be tak- Both the problems of the present and the ing to other parts of the world, we in the prospects for the future make this a meeting United States of America know that our of transcendental importance for our peoples. closest friends and our closest neighbors Our peaceful relations have remained un- are in this hemisphere, and we welcome changed, and our friendship has been you as a close friend and a close neighbor strengthened in extremely difficult moments for both our countries through effective coopera- for so many years from Brazil. tion and exemplary fellowship and mutual Mr. President, finally, I look forward to respect. our talks because of the enormous success Now is the time to build upon such a friend- that you have had during your term of ship, and it is for this purpose, which I am office in building the economy of Brazil, in sure you share, that I take advantage of the welcome and hospitality of this great country. the progress that has occurred during that Our relations in the years ahead cannot fail period. Those who have written about it to reflect the promises and the uncertainties have called it "the Brazilian miracle." We that gather over the international scene. congratulate you, and we want you to Neither can they fail to adapt themselves to know that all of the people of this country, the new realities of the world and to the stage of historical evolution of each of our countries. as we look to our great neighbor to the Drawing inspiration from the past, the cooper- south, extend our very best wishes to all ation between Brazil and the United States the people of your great country. must now seek, with imagination, new means Thank you for coming at this time so and instruments which reflect such realities. that we could meet. Our position cannot be the same vis-a-vis every international problem, nor is this ex- NOTE: The President spoke at 10:54 a.m. in pected from our frank and loyal friendship. the East Room at the White House. A formal Let us, nevertheless, endeavor to make our welcome with full military honors had been policies converge without requiring that they scheduled to be held on the South Lawn, but coincide in every case. because of rain, President and Mrs. Nixon The Brazil of today, in full process of de- greeted President and Mrs. Médici on the North velopment, accepts the challenge of history Portico and proceeded to the East Room for which places on its shoulders an increasing the welcoming ceremony. share of responsibility in the concert of nations. 1165 [382] Dec. 7 Public Papers of the Presidents It is with this conviction and in the spirit of dence in the cause of justice, progress, and and de fraternal friendship that I come to you today. peace. spect h Mr. President, let this first moment be one This is the message I bring you from the Preside brimming with faith and confidence-faith in Brazilian people, asking you to convey it to work V that which we shall build together for the the American people. well-being of our people, and common confi- no long its futu Wor 383 Toasts of the President and President Médici of country Brazil. December 7, 1971 goes, S Americ Mr. President, Mrs. Médici, and our very are discovering it, and the visit of the and Br. distinguished guests from Brazil and from President of Brazil to this country will tell and as the United States of America: this message to our people and tell it strong It is always a very special occasion when better, also, to the people of the world. friends the largest country in South America and This great giant is now awake-100 mil- a great the most populous country in North lion people, unlimited natural resources, people, America meet, today, as they do, on a developing now not only on the coast, the America state visit. But this occasion is distin- beautiful cities that we all know, but de- special guished from other occasions in which the veloping, due to the leadership of our guest I kno leader of Brazil and the leader of the of honor tonight and those who have like to United States have met, whether here or worked with him, developing the heart- for its P in that country. land of the country through highways and raising Brazil is a country that, for us in the cities and exploration such as was only distingu United States, has always been one of dreamed of before, but now is being Brazil. great promise, great mystery, great excite- actually done. NOTE: T ment, and I think the description of This has meant that Brazil and all of its State Dir Brazil which is contained in one section of promise that people have dreamed about Preside its national anthem perhaps tells us why through the years is now being realized. His rema Brazil has such a special meaning to those The international historian, Arnold Toyn- as follows of us in the United States who look to this bee, in 1934, wrote that Brazil's possibil- Mr. Presi great country to the south and think of its ities would be unlimited once it had the In the future. leadership in its government that would only a g' As I recall, Brazil is described there as attract the kind of investment from its the deter en the tra a great sleeping giant lying eternally in a own people and from abroad that would our home magnificent cradle. That was true of explore and develop its resources. And I My wil Brazil 150 years ago when it had its inde- think the greatest tribute that I can pay to party, sl pendence, and the United States was the our distinguished guest tonight is that in memories first country in the world to recognize its the brief time that he has been President here this these moi independence. It was true of Brazil 100 of Brazil there has been more progress than pitality of years ago, 5° years ago, maybe even 25 in any comparable time in the whole his- Here w years ago, or IO years ago. But it is not tory of that country. frank con true today. This is a great record. It is one which change The giant is awakened. The people of the people of Brazil thank him for. It is reminisce to discuss Brazil know it. The people of the world one that we, his very good and devoted 1166 Richard Nixon, 1971 Dec. 7 [383] and dear friends from the north, also re- particularly to formulate long-range plans for spect him for, and we, in our country, Mr. the future. Here we are to carry out a joint President, welcome the opportunity to effort in establishing a new point of departure mutually beneficial for the relations that have work with this great giant of the south, always been peaceful between the two nations no longer sleeping, very much alive, with which we represent. its future so unlimited. We met at length this morning, fully aware Working with you as the leader of that that our points of view are not always in coin- country-because we know that as Brazil cidence. We did not, however, lose sight for a single moment of this objective of trying to goes, so will go the rest of that Latin harmonize them and integrate them in the American Continent-the United States broadest cooperation which is not only bene- and Brazil, friends and allies in the past, ficial for both countries, but it is also impor- and as this dinner tonight reaffirms, tant for the handling and the solving of the strong and close personal and official problems, problems of the hemisphere as well as worldwide problems. friends today, we shall work together for Our friendship has undergone the tests of a greater future for your people, for our both war and of peace, and the United States people, and for all the people of the always knows that it will find in Brazil a loyal American family, for which we have a and independent ally. Brazil cannot display in- difference and apathy in the presence of new special place in our hearts. events and new circumstances, in the presence I know that in that spirit all of us would of a reality which is ever changing and above like to reaffirm our affection for Brazil, which we must rise in order to build a new for its people, for the American family, by world order in the spheres of political, diplo- raising our glasses to the health of our matic, economic, financial, and monetary distinguished guest, the President of activity. We must approach this new world without Brazil. preconceived ideas and without inflexible posi- NOTE: The President spoke at 9:51 p.m. in the tions. And what seems imperative to us is that State Dining Room at the White House. this new world order must also bring about an President Médici responded in Portuguese. entirely new phase of peace, justice, and prog- ress for all the members of the family of nations. His remarks were translated by an interpreter The Brazilian and American voices which are as follows: blending around this table are all imbued with Mr. President, Mrs. Nixon: the same feeling of friendship, and they share In the words of Your Excellency, I find not an equal yearning for achievement. These only a gesture of fraternal welcome but also voices do not find it difficult to make themselves the determination to preserve and to strength- heard and understood and fully appreciated. en the traditional solidarity that exists between These are voices which are joining in common our homelands. purposes, still without giving up their own My wife and I, and all the members of my identity, which is autonomous and spontaneous. party, shall always cherish unforgettable It is on the basis of reciprocal trust, of mutual memories of the fellowship that is prevailing respect, and equality of rights that we are going here this evening, of the joy that permeates to preserve the great friendship, a friendship these moments, thanks to the generous hos- which is indicated to us and imposed upon us pitality of Mrs. Nixon and yours, Mr. President. by the common interests. Here we are, Mr. President, to engage in a It is in this spirit, and with these thoughts in frank conversation between friends, to ex- mind, that I ask all those present here to raise change views and share experiences, to their glasses in toasting the health of Mrs. reminisce about the past of common struggles, Nixon and the President of the United States to discuss the problems of the present, and of America, and also toasting the greatness and 1167 [383] Dec. 7 Public Papers of the Presidents the happiness of the great American Nation among the nations of the region with respect to private which was born and which has been prospering economic and social development, as well as $7 billi under the aegis of freedom. their common security interest. They agreed lion ha that the primary goal of an era of peace and prosperity for the region can be achieved to pay On December 9, 1971, at the conclusion of only by cooperation which in turn must be But th President Médici's meetings with President founded on the principles of freedom and ing and Nixon, an agreed-upon statement was read by self-determination. system. Press Secretary Ronald L. Ziegler at his regular The Presidents extensively reviewed rela- Thre news briefing. The agreed-upon statement read tions between the United States and Brazil. as follows: mendo Bilateral relationships embracing all facets, in- The visit of President Médici to Washington cluding common security interests, and politi- improv provided an excellent opportunity for conver- cal, economic, military, scientific and cultural is made sations in depth between the Heads of State of matters were discussed in the spirit of the tradi- wage e two of the largest and most populous nations tionally close and friendly ties between the two on the Western Hemisphere. Talks between plans a countries. President Médici and President Nixon were no tax The meetings provided an excellent basis for conducted in an atmosphere of warm friend- continued and intensified cooperation between ment S ship, and both agreed that recent world devel- the two nations over a wide range of matters group opments made their frank exchanges most which both Presidents considered of primary group timely and mutually profitable. importance. their re Their discussions covering the broad aspects The two Presidents also discussed the im- of the international situation were particularly as insul pressive economic progress made by Brazil un- significant and timely in the light of President der the leadership of President Médici, progress the ben Nixon's upcoming meetings with other world which has marked Brazil as one of the most they W( leaders. rapidly developing nations of the world. when t] There was an exchange of evaluations and The conversations were particularly marked of these views on many of the issues of world signifi- by the two Presidents' mutual grasp and under- cance affecting, as they do, the interests of standing of problems and issues facing both taking both nations. They reviewed action taken and nations. Their talks provided not only an op- the qua contemplated to bring greater order to the portunity for a review of past and present rela- portant international monetary system to further in- tions, but importantly established a firm basis to whic ternational trade and development. for continuing consultations in the future of retired The two Presidents consulted closely on im- world, hemispheric, and bilateral problems of portant hemispheric issues, recognizing the need mutual concern. and dig for continuing and intensified cooperation an adec Olde about t 384 Special Message to the Congress on a Pension cially a Reform Program. December 8, 1971 Aging, ington. To the Congress of the United States: plans are a direct expression of some of form an Self-reliance, prudence and independ- the finest elements in the American char- systems ence are qualities which our Government acter. Public policy should be designed to effort to should work to encourage among our peo- reward and reinforce these qualities. tiremen ple. These are also the qualities which are The achievements of our private pen- The f involved when a person chooses to invest sion plans are a tribute to the coopera- includes in a retirement savings plan, setting aside tion and creativeness of American labor renewec money today so that he will have greater and management. Over 4 million retired posal, a security tomorrow. In this respect, pension workers are now receiving benefits from could le 1168 Harry S. Truman, 1949 May I8 [102] [The Honorable, The Secretary of the Interior.] Comp., p. 279); Executive Order 10137, June 30, NOTE: The following Executive orders. were signed 1950, "Amending Executive Order No. 10077 of by the President in connection with the transfer of September 7, 1949" (3 CFR, 1949-1953 Comp., the islands: Executive Order 10077, September 7, p. 320); and Executive Order 10264, June 29, 1951, "Transfer of the Administration of American Samoa 1949, "Transfer of the Administration of the Island from the Secretary of the Navy to the Secretary of of Guam from the Secretary of the Navy to the the Interior" (3 CFR, 1949-1953 Comp., p. 765). Secretary of the Interior" (3 CFR, I949-1953 I02 Remarks of Welcome to the President of Brazil at the Washington National Airport. May 18, 1949 Mr. President: the active and effective support of each I am delighted to welcome you to the other. United States as the guest of the people of At the present time, when the world is this Nation. I personally am happy to be still disturbed by fear and conflicting ideol- able to renew our acquaintanceship, and to ogies, it is gratifying to know that Brazil reciprocate the generous hospitality which and the United States are exerting their con- you accorded me on my visit to Brazil in structive efforts in the common resolve to 1947. I sincerely hope that your stay in the strengthen democracy and assure world United States will prove as enjoyable to you peace under conditions in which freedom and as my trip to your country was to me. human rights will flourish. This is the first time a Brazilian chief of Mr. President, all of us in this country are state has visited our country since Dom honored by your visit as the Chief Executive Pedro II attended the Centennial Exposition of a great nation and a great people. You at Philadelphia in 1876. He captivated the share with us the principles and ideals which people of the United States with his gracious have guided our countries in our progress manner and lively interest in the scientific toward a better life for our people. and social developments that characterized I know that these ideals will continue to that period of our history. I trust that you inspire us in our quest for peace and happi- will find the contemporary scene equally in- ness for all mankind. teresting and significant. NOTE: The President greeted Gen. Eurico Dutra, The exchange of visits between the heads President of Brazil, at 4 p.m. at the Washington of state of Brazil and the United States sym- National Airport. President Dutra was received bolizes the cordial relations that have with a Presidential salute of 21 guns and full mili- tary honors. The remarks were carried over radio always existed between our two countries. and television. Throughout the history of the two nations, A speakers' stand had been erected at Washington our relationship has been one of warm Post Square on Pennsylvania Avenue. When the official procession reached the Square at 5 p.m., friendship and mutual helpfulness. We President Truman and President Dutra left their have fought through two world wars as loyal car and mounted the platform. In a brief ceremony allies. In peace and in war, Brazil and the President Dutra was presented with a birthday cake, decorated with American and Brazilian flags. United States have been secure in the knowl- In presenting the cake, President Truman made the edge that we could confidently rely upon following remarks: 255 Harry S. Truman, 1949 May 19 [105] show them our gratitude through our whole- I wish the USO abundant success in its hearted support of the USO. Soon they will vitally important task. be returning to their homes. We want them Very sincerely yours, to return as good citizens, proud of the HARRY S. TRUMAN treatment they have received. [Mr. Harvey S. Firestone, Jr., President, United I am particularly happy to see Veterans Service Organizations, Inc., 35° Fifth Avenue, New York, New York.] Hospital Camp Shows included in the pro- NOTE: The President met with Mr. Firestone in his gram of the USO. They serve the double office at the White House at 11:30 a.m. A draft purpose of entertaining the men and giving "Suggestion for Statement to be Made to Hon. them the much-needed assurance that they Harry S. Truman, President of the United States, by Harvey S. Firestone, Jr., President of U.S.O." is in are remembered. the files of the Truman Library. For the statement by the President reactivating the United Service Organizations, see Item 34. 105 Remarks to Members of the Brazilian Press. May 19, 1949 I APPRECIATE that most highly. I want that he had had a wonderful time, that he is to say to you gentlemen that I hope you will having a wonderful time, and we want him have a pleasant time. You are most, most to continue to have just that sort of pleas- welcome here. Our only difficulty is finding urable visit here. the means to meet the precedent for courtesy We are all of the same opinion, that the which was set in Brazil. I don't think we cementing of the good-neighbor policy in can ever hope to come up to the treatment the Western Hemisphere is vitally important which we received when we were down to the welfare of the world as a whole. We there, from the President all the way down. have always counted Brazil as our friend, Our press was cordially treated. I don't and I know that we can always count Brazil think I ever had such a welcome in my life as our friend. We are in a peculiar position. as I had in Rio de Janeiro; in fact, I know it. They give us credit for being an exceedingly I have endeavored to give President Dutra powerful nation, but our neighbors to the something in the nature of the reception south of us and our neighbors to the north which he gave me in Rio de Janeiro. Of of us are not afraid of us. We are all friends course, we knew very well we could not hope together. That is an example that I hope to approach the turnout which you had in some other people in the world will start to Rio de Janeiro. One of our handicaps is follow. that we have only 700,000 people in Wash- Thank you very much. ington and in the immediate vicinity, and I understand that Rio de Janeiro has some- NOTE: The President spoke in his office at the White thing approaching 3 million, so that makes House at 3:35 p.m. His opening words "I appre- ciate that" referred to remarks by Herbert Moses, some difference. president of the Brazilian Press Association, who had The President assured me this morning presented the group to President Truman. 259 [106] May 20 Public Papers of the Presidents NOTE: The Preside об Statement by the President on Activating a Generator at by President Dutra Grand Coulee Dam. May 20, 1949 honor of President President Dutra's follows: THE PLACING in service of this additional hope to see more of these great steps, such Your visit to Br generator, which today makes Grand Coulee as the one we are witnessing today, as part history of the cont: Dam our biggest producer of hydroelectric of a continuously developing program, orga- were in Rio de Jai is understood in E power, is indeed an historic event. This is nized under a single administration con- admired. one more of the many steps necessary in har- cerned with the problems peculiar to the On this return nessing the almost limitless power potential Northwest. the exceptional dem witnessed, directed of our great Northwest. The various Federal agencies have al- ing among those V Already the Nation is indebted to the ready done much to develop the area of the lovely Capital City Northwest and its great Columbia Valley Columbia River. Now, by uniting their ac- shall carry back W of voices and of an resources for a large contribution in winning tivities and authority in one administration, our most terrible war. Now, in peace, this the entire program can be geared more power, and more to be added, can be used in efficiently to the rapid growth of the area. the development of industry and agriculture NOTE: The President had set the new generator in 108 Joint S in a coordinated approach to the needs of the motion by throwing a switch in his office at the region and of the Nation. White House at 3 p.m. After the President threw Preside In a special message to the 81st Congress the switch, he received the following message from the Power House Control Room at Grand Coulee THE PRESIDE on April 13, I recommended the enactment Dam: dent of the Uni of legislation creating a Columbia Valley Thank you Mr. President. Power from the new Administration which would coordinate generator you put on the line is now lighting homes, their approval of serving farms, and driving the wheels of industry [I.] The Pre these Federal activities playing an important throughout the Pacific Northwest. of Brazil and tl part in the development and conservation of F.A. BANKS, District Manager, States of Americ the resources of the Northwest. It is my Bureau of Reclamation. D.C., and have sirability of foste and social prog 107 Toasts of the President and President Dutra at a Dinner at beneficial intercl the Brazilian Embassy. May 20, 1949 and trained speci through financi: Mr. President: the tour over the Tennessee Valley Author- tion. These CO In Rio de Janeiro you set a precedent for ity, and your visit to Vanderbilt University in spired by the t. courtesy and hospitality. As best we can we Nashville, Tenn. friendship which have been attempting to return to you and to You have fulfilled my idea of what a a century in the the people of Brazil those wonderful tributes President ought to be. You rise an hour countries. and pleasant times which we had when Mrs. earlier than I do, you walk better than I do, The recently P Truman and my daughter Margaret and I and you call your cabinet into session before Brazil-United S visited your great capital. breakfast, which I think I shall institute in which outlines a I sincerely hope that you have had an en- Washington. opment for Braz joyable visit in Washington, and I sincerely Mr. President, to your health, and to the to the expression hope that you will have a pleasant visit in continued friendship of Brazil and the dent Dutra for New York City. I hope that you will enjoy United States! American expert 260 Harry S. Truman, 1949 May 2I [108] NOTE: The President was responding to a toast of civic friendliness and the expressive cordiality by President Dutra at a dinner which he gave in of the American people. honor of President Truman at the Brazilian Embassy. We shall never forget the significance of the words President Dutra's toast, through an interpreter, and actions by which eminent representatives of follows: the three branches of Government of this great Your visit to Brazil was a happy event in the nation betokened your gracious hospitality to a history of the continent, you had proof while you brother from the south, and renewed the assurance were in Rio de Janeiro of how well your country of the traditional and time-tested alliance which is understood in Brazil, and of how much it is has seen us through the hardships of two wars, and admired. rendered ever more fruitful the constructive tasks On this return visit, we are deeply gratified at of peace. the exceptional demonstrations of esteem which we We are happy to have you with us now, in this witnessed, directed toward our country. Outstand- house of Brazil, in the atmosphere of cordial friend- ing among those was the festive spectacle of your ship which is a feature of the Brazilian home. lovely Capital City bedecked with our flags. We Mr. President, it gives me a great deal of satis- shall carry back with us to Brazil the recollection faction at this time to raise my glass to your per- of voices and of anthems translating the vibrations sonal happiness, and to the ever-present greatness of the United States of America. 108 Joint Statements Following Discussions With the President of Brazil. May 21, 1949 THE PRESIDENT of Brazil and the Presi- dent Truman emphasized the past record of dent of the United States are associated in interdependence of the two countries, in their approval of the following statements: times of peace and war, and assured the [I.] The President of the United States Brazilian President that the United States of Brazil and the President of the United is now, and will continue to be, most inter- States of America have met in Washington, ested in the further development of his D.C., and have discussed at length the de- country, either through the implementation sirability of fostering economic development of the recommendations made in the joint and social progress through the mutually report or in other fields of related endeavor. beneficial interchange of technological data It was suggested that technical discussions and trained specialists of all types, as well as regarding this report might take place later through financial and economic coopera- in the year at the time of the visit of the tion. These conversations have been in- Brazilian Minister of Finance to the United spired by the traditional and unfaltering States. friendship which has prevailed for more than President Dutra mentioned the need of a century in the relations between the two foreign private investment in Brazil. The countries. two Presidents recognized the important role The recently 'published report of the Joint of private investment in economic develop- Brazil-United States Technical Mission, ment and social progress. Accordingly, they which outlines a program of economic devel- have instructed technical experts of their opment for Brazil, was discussed. In reply respective Governments to commence im- to the expression of appreciation by Presi- mediately the negotiation of an appropriate dent Dutra for services given by North treaty that would stimulate the mutually American experts with this report, Presi- beneficial flow of private investment. 261 [108] May 2I Public Papers of the Presidents The two Presidents were also fully agreed Reconstruction and Development and the IIO Rem that a comprehensive joint study of the tax Export-Import Bank. President Truman relations between the two countries would be assured President Dutra that requests from Resp helpful. It was decided that conversations Brazil would in the future, as in the past, Wor on this subject should be held with a view receive the most attentive consideration of toward negotiating a convention between the the United States Government. Mr. Chairma: two countries, similar to those already in [2.] The historical record of relations be- ladies and ge force between the United States and other tween Brazil and the United States reflects I appreciate countries, which will, it is hoped, eliminate cordial and unbroken friendship and co- mittee is doir many of the factors that result in double operation. During the present visit of fall, when we taxation. Brazilian President Dutra, he and the Presi- the moral wel President Dutra also pointed to the great dent of the United States have reviewed this Armed Forces need in Brazil for trained technicians and admirable record and have discussed means had a long CO: specialists of all types. He was assured that through which relations between the two You know, 1 every effort would be made to meet Brazil's States might be improved and broadened. were scarcely requirements in the field of technical In this connection both Presidents have up of men W. cooperation. agreed that a cultural convention, a treaty have about I. The two Presidents recognized the possi- which would encourage and further stimu- Armed Forces bility of financing through public lending late the present cultural exchange between whom are unc agencies appropriate development projects the two countries, would be desirable and men who are t} not suited to private financing, such as those have given their approval to the negotiation the future wi' projects which have already been accepted of such an instrument. young men sh for financing by the International Bank for treatment as th they stayed at the neighbors's home. In mo 109 Remarks Upon Receiving the Robert S. Abbott happy in the are Memorial Award. May 25, 1949 something whi- give them. THANK YOU very much. I appreciate it, was set out. That's about all I can say. and hope very much that I will continue to Therefore, it NOTE: The President spoke at 12:45 p.m. in the Rose this Committee. deserve it. Garden at the White House. found a better The statement was made, I think before The Robert S. Abbott Award was established in the election last fall, that the principles for memory of the founder of the Chicago Defender. States of Ameri which we are fighting are just as old as the Presentation of the plaque, engraved with the the moral forces award citation, was made by John H. Sengstacke, great, and the V Constitution of the United States, and just nephew of the late Mr. Abbott, and editor and pub- as new as the Democratic Platform of 1948. lisher of the Chicago Defender. The award read: moral forces is t We are pressing for the implementation of "To President Harry S. Truman for his advocacy of They accuse 1 full civil rights for all Americans regardless of race, cause we strive f that platform, and shall continue to press color or creed. The President's civil rights program for it until we accomplish the purpose which fulfills a dream long cherished." for the whole I mental back of th ard of living is li mon on the Mou the best system of has ever seen. 262 I 378 Public Papers of the Presidents 378 У Statement by the President on Appointing Now we are partr the Presidential Railroad Commission. our free institutions, able to all our citize December 22, 1960 all nations. On bel salute the memory ( THE MEMBERS of this Commission, representing management, labor ultimate sacrifice. F and the public, are embarking upon an effort that will have far-reaching together in time of P and lasting consequences for the railroad industry. The appointment of With warm regar this Commission represents a major and constructive innovation that will prove to be a significant achievement in the progress of labor-manage- ment relations toward greater maturity and stability. In resolving this problem in a manner fair to the men, helpful to the industry, and in the best interests of our country, the members of this Commission will provide 380 У The ] service of incalculable value. Representatives of the railroads and railway labor organizations con- Forbidding Di cerned have, in a letter to me, jointly recommended that Secretary of Documents R Labor James P. Mitchell serve as chairman of the Commission. I am particularly pleased that Secretary Mitchell has agreed to provide this Countries. I additional and significant service to our Nation in the cause of industrial [ Released ] peace. NOTE: A list of the 15 members of the Commission was attached to the statement. I AM ADVISED tl Secretary of State, tl 379 Ч Message to President Kubitschek on the Managing Director from the Chairman Occasion of the Ceremonies in Brazil Honoring the Monetary Affairs O: Dead of World War II. December 22, 1960 House of Represent States aid program Dear Mr. President: As I have stated The memorial ceremonies which are being held today in honor of the Executive Branch to Brazilians who gave their lives in the Second World War have a special possible information significance for me personally and for the people of my country. As war- Executive also has a time Commander of the Allied Forces, I had personal knowledge of spect to the disclos Brazilian courage on the field of battle, where members of the armed relating to its operat forces of the United States of Brazil and of the United States of America, It is vital to the n allied in the struggle against totalitarianism, fought and died together. Executive Branch be I am convinced that the spirit of common endeavor, which characterized It is essential to effe our relations then, still permeates them today. in a position to be personnel or other 88o Dwight D. Eisenhower, 1960 I 380 ng Now we are partners in a common struggle to develop and strengthen our free institutions, to make the benefits of our growing economies avail- able to all our citizens, and to find ways to further understanding among all nations. On behalf of myself and the people of the United States, I salute the memory of your countrymen who, in time of war, made the abor ultimate sacrifice. Remembering their courage, we can continue to work hing together in time of peace for the high purposes they SO gallantly defended. nt of With warm regard, will Sincerely, lage- DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER this 1 the vide 380 I The President's Certification as to His Forbidding Disclosure to Congress of Certain con- y of Documents Relating to Aid to South American am Countries. December 23, 1960 this strial [ Released December 23, 1960. Dated December 2, 1960 ] I AM ADVISED that on October 31, 1960, there were delivered to the ment. Secretary of State, the Director of the International Cooperation, and the Managing Director of the Development Loan Fund written requests from the Chairman of the Subcommittee on Foreign Operations and le Monetary Affairs of the Committee on Government Operations of the House of Representatives for certain documents relating to the United States aid program in seven South American countries. As I have stated on other occasions, it is the established policy of the Executive Branch to provide the Congress and the public with the fullest f the possible information consistent with the national interest. However, the ecial Executive also has a recognized Constitutional duty and power with re- war- spect to the disclosure of information, documents and other materials e of relating to its operations. med It is vital to the national interest that the officials and employees of the rica, Executive Branch be able to conduct its operations in an effective manner. ther. It is essential to effective operations that such officials and employees be rized in a position to be fully candid in advising with each other on policy, personnel or other official matters, that they be able to engage in frank 881 To Caralyn (Rowley FAX 456-6218 Tel 456 1414 FROM: ARA/BR Mark hop 647-9407 90 OCT 20 P2: 35 L 2045662181 2026457522 : : RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE 5 December 1988 1988 Constitution of the Federative Republic of IV. To promote the welfare of all, without regard to Brazil origin, race, sex, color, age, or any other forms of 81420095 Sao Paulo 0 ESTADO DE SAO PAULO discrimination. (Special Supplement) in Portuguese 5 Oct 88 pp 1-23 [Text] Article 4. Preamble The Federative Republic of Brazil is governed in its international relations by the following principles: We, the representatives of the Brazilian people, con- vened in National Constituent Assembly to institute 8 I. National independence; democratic state that is intended to ensure the exercise of individual and social rights, liberty, security, well- II. The preeminence of human rights; being, development, equality, and justice as supreme values in и fraternal and pluralist society that is without III. The self-determination of peoples; prejudices, is founded on social harmony, and is com- mitted on the domestic and international scene, to the IV. Nonintervention; peaceful resolution of disputes, hereby promulgate, under the protection of God, the following Constitution V. Equality among nations; of the Federative Republic of Brazil, VI. The defense of peace; Title I - The Fundamental Principles VII. The peaceful resolution of conflicts; Article 1. VIII. Repudiation of terrorism and racism; The Federative Republic of Brazil, formed by the indis- IX. Cooperation among peoples for the advancement of soluble union of the States and Municipalities and the humanity: Federal District, is constituted as a democratic state of law upon the following premises: X. The granting of political asylum. I. Sovereignty; Sole Paragraph. The Federative Republic of Brazil shall II. Citizenship; seek the economic, political, social and cultural integra- tion of the peoples of Latin America, with a view to the III. The dignity of the human person; formation of a Latin American community of nations. IV. The social values of labor and of free enterprise; Enterpr for Title II - Fundamental Rights and Guarantees V. Political pluralism. the Americas over 70 Million vaters participated Sole Paragraph. All power emanates from the people, Chapter I Individual and Collective Rights and Daties who exercise it either through elected representatives or directly, pursuant to this Constitution. Article 5. Article 2. All are equal before the law, without distinction of any sort. Both Brazilians and aliens resident in Brazil are The three branches of power of the Union, independent guaranteed the inviolability of the right to life, liberty, and harmonious among themselves, are the Legislative, equality, security, and property, under the following the Executive, and the Judiciary. terms: Article 3. I. Men and women are equal in rights and obligations under this Constitution; The following constitute the fundamental purposes of the Federative Republic of Brasil: II. No one shall be obligated to do or to refrain from doing anything, except by virtue of the law; I. To build a free, just, and unified society; III. No one shall be subjected to torture, nor to inhuman II. To ensure national development; or degrading treatment; III. To eradicate poverty and powerlessness and dimin- ish social and regional inequalities; IV. Thoughts may be freely expressed, but anonymity is forbidden: Z 20456621818 2026457522 : 2::15PM : 06-02-16 RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FRIS-LAT-00-233-S 5 December 1988 2 V. The right to a response proportional to the offense is XVII. There is full freedom of association for legal assured, in addition to indemnification for material or purposes, but association of a paramilitary nature is moral damages or injury to one's reputation; forbidden; VI. The freedom of conscience and belief is inviolable, XVIII. Authorization is not required for the creation of the freedom to hold religious services is assured, and associations or, pursuant to law, of cooperatives, and protection of the sites of religious services and their government interference in their functioning is forbid- liturgies is guaranteed pursuant to law; den; VII. The rendering of religious assistance in civilian and XIX. Only a judicial decision may force the dissolution military collective confinement facilities is assured of an association or the suspension of its activities; in the under the law; first of these cases, the decision must have become final and unappealable; VIII. No one shall be deprived of rights by reason of religious belief or philosophical or political conviction, XX. No one may be compelled to associate or to remain unless the individual invokes them to gain exemption associated; from a legal obligation that is imposed upon all and refuses to perform alternative service as established by XXI. Associative entities may, when expressly autho- law; rized, legitimately represent their members in and out of court; IX. Intellectual, artistic, scientific, and communications activity may be freely expressed, without censure or XXII. The right of property is guaranteed; license; XXIII. Property shall serve its social function; X. The privacy, private life, honor, and reputation of persons is inviolable and the right to indemnification for XXIV. The law shall establish the procedure for expro- material or moral damages resulting from the violation priation on the grounds of public necessity or utility, or thereof is assured; in the interest of society, against fair indemnification made in advance and in cash, except in instances for XI. The home is the inviolable refuge of the individual which provision is made in this Constitution; and no one may penetrate it without the consent of the resident except in cases of flagrante delicto or calamity XXV. In the event of imminent public danger, the or to render assistance or, during daylight hours, by court appropriate authority may use private property and the order, owner is assured of subsequent indemnification if dam- age occurs; XII. The confidentiality of correspondence and of tele- graphic, data, and telephonic communications is invio- XXVI. A small rural property holding, as defined in law lable except, in the latter case, by court order issued in and provided it is being worked by the family, shall not such instances and manner as the law may establish for be attached to pay debts resulting from its productive purposes of criminal investigation or the gathering of activity; the law shall make provision for the means of evidence in criminal cases; financing its development; XXVII. Authors have the exclusive right to use, publish XIII. Any work, occupation, or profession may be or reproduce their works and this right is transferable to engaged in freely, with due regard for the professional the heirs for such time as the law may determine; qualifications established by law; XXVIII. The following are assured, under the law: XIV. Access to information is assured to all, and the confidentiality of the source is safeguarded when neces- (a) The protection of individual participation in collec- sary for the exercise of a profession; tive works and the reproduction of the human image and voice; including for sports activities; XV. Individuals may travel freely within Brazilian terri- tory in peacetime and any person may pursuant to law, (b) The right of the creators, interpreters, and their enter, remain in, or depart from it with his property; respective labor union and associative representations to inspect the economic utilization of the works which they XVI. All may assemble peacefully without weapons in created or in which they participated. places open to the public and do so without authoriza- tion, provided that they do not disrupt another meeting XXIX. The law shall assure the authors of industrial scheduled earlier for the same site; advance notice to the inventions temporary privilege for the utilization appropriate authority is all that is required; thereof, as well as protection of industrial creations and E 20456621818 2026475752 2::19PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FRIS-LAT-88-233-S 5 December 1988 3 the ownership of the trademarks, company names, and XLII. The practice of racism constitutes a nonbailable other distinctive seals, to provide for the interests of and imprescriptible crime that in subject to punishment society and the technological and economic develop- by incarceration, pursuant to law. ment of Brazil; XLIII. The law shall consider as nonbailable crimes not XXX. The right of inheritance is guaranteed; subject to pardon or amnesty the practice of torture, the illegal traffic in narcotics and similar drugs, terrorism, XXXL The succession of the property of aliens that is and those crimes defined as heinous; those who order, situated in Brazil shall be regulated by Brazilian law to carry out, or fail to prevent such crimes when it was the benefit of the Brazilian spouse or children, unless the possible to do so shall be held responsible; personal law of the deceased is more favorable to them; XXXII. The State shall promote the protection of the XLIV. The action of armed civilian or military groups consumer, in such manner as the law may provide; against the constitutional order and the democratic state constitutes a nonbailable and imprescriptible crime; XXXIII. All are entitled to receive information from government entities when it is of private interest to them XLV. No penalty shall survive the convicted person; or of collective or general interest; such information, however, both the obligation to make reparation for the except that whose confidentiality is essential to the damage, and a forfeiture of assets decree may, according security of society and the State, shall be furnished to the law, be extended to said person's successors and be within the interval established by law. Those who violate executed against them, up to the limit of the value of the this principle may be held liable; estate transferred; XXXIV. All are assured of the following, without pay- XLVI. The law shall regulate the determination of the ment of a fee: penalty for an individual case, and shall adopt penalties such as the following: (a) The right to petition the governments in the defense of rights or against illegality or abuse of power, (a) Deprivation or restriction of liberty; (b) The ability to obtain authenticated copies of docu- ments and records at government offices in order to (b) Forfeiture of assets; defend rights and clarify situations of personal interest; (c) Fine; XXXV. The law shall not exclude from review by the Judiciary Branch an injury or threat to a right; (d) Alternative community service; XXXVI. The law shall not impair a vested right, a per- fected juridical act, or a matter adjudged (res judicata]. (e) Suspension or interdiction of rights; XXXVII. There shall be no special courts or tribunals; XLVII. The following penalties shall not exist: XXXVIII. The institution of the jury is recognized, in such form as may be organized by law, the following (a) Death, except in case of war declared pursuant to being assured: Article 84, (XIX); (a) Full defense; (b) Perpetual penalties; (b) The confidentiality of the balloting; (c) Forced labor; (c) The sovereignty of the verdicts; (d) Exile; (d) Jurisdiction to try felonious crimes against life; (e) Cruel and unusual penalties; XXXIX. There is no crime unless first defined by law, nor penalty without prior legal imposition; XLVIII. The penalty shall be served in establishments that have been differentiated according to the nature of XL Criminal law shall not be retroactive, except to the offense and the age and sex of the convict; benefit the defendant; XLI. The law shall punish any discrimination that is XLIX. Prisoners are assured of respect for their physical offensive to the basic rights and liberties; and moral integrity; V 2026457522 2::17PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FRIS-LAT-88-233-S 5 Documber 1988 4 L. Female inmates shall be assured conditions under LXV. Illegal detention shall immediately be relaxed by which they may remain with their children during the the judicial authority; period when they are breastfeeding; LI. No Brazilian shall be extradited; however, a natural- LXVI. No one shall be taken to prison or held therein when the law permits provisional liberty, with or without ized Brazilian may be extradited for an ordinary crime bail; perpetrated prior to maturalization, or for proven involvement in illicit traffic in narcotics and similar drugs, pursuant to Inw; LXVII. There shall be no civil imprisonment for indebt- edness, other than that of one who is liable for voluntary LII. Extradition of an alien shall not be granted on the and inexcusable failure to fulfill an obligation to make basis of a political crime or crime of opinion; support payments, and the indebtedness of an unfaithful depositary; LIII. No one shall be tried or sentenced except by the competent authority; LXVIII. Habeas corpus shall be granted whenever any- one suffers, or finds himself threatened with suffering, LIV. No one shall be deprived of liberty or his property violence or coercion in his freedom of movement due to without due process of law; illegality or abuse of power; LV. The litigants in a judicial or administrative proceed- LXIX. A writ of mandamus shall be granted in order to ing, and accused persons in general are assured the right protect a definite and certain right, not protected by to an adversary proceeding and the opportunity to habeas corpus or habeas data, when the party responsible present a full defense, with the means and appeals for the illegality or abuse of power is a public authority or inherent therein; an agent of a legal entity exercising the prerogatives of the Government; LVI. Evidence obtained by illicit means is inadmissible in the proceedings; LXX. The following may petition for a collective writ of mandamus: LVII. No one shall be considered guilty until the crimi- nal conviction has become final and unappealable; (a) A political party having representation in the National Congress; LVIII. One who has been identified by civil means shall not be submitted to criminal identification procedures (b) A labor union, trade or professional association, or except in the instances for which provision is made by other legally constituted association that has been func- law; tioning for at least 1 year in defense of the interests of its members or affiliates; LIX. Private criminal charges may be filed when the public prosecutor has not instituted criminal proceed- ings within the legal interval; LXXI. An injunction shall be granted whenever the absence of a regulatory rule makes inviable the exercise of LX. The law may only restrict publicity regarding the the constitutional rights and liberties and the prerogatives events in the proceedings when the protection of privacy inherent in nationality, sovereignty, and citizenship; or the interests of society so dictate; LXXII. Habeas data shall be granted: LXI. No one shall be arrested except in flagrante delicto or by written and duly justified order of the proper (a) To ensure access to information relating to the person judicial authority, except in cases of military transgres- of the petitioner that is contained in the records or data sions or a distinctively military crime, so defined by law; banks of governmental or public entities; LXII. Notification of the arrest of any person and the (b) For the correction of data, when it is preferred this place where he may be found shall immediately be not be done to do so through confidential judicial or communicated to the appropriate judge and the family administrative proceedings; of the detainee, or a person designated by same; LXXIII. Any citizen may legitimately file suit ["acao LXIII. The detainee shall be informed of his rights, popular") seeking to annul an act that is injurious to the among which are the right to remain silent, and he shall public patrimony or to an entity in which the State has be assured the assistance of his family and an attorney; an equity interest, or to administrative morality, the environment, or the nation's historical and cultural LXIV. The detainee has the right to learn the identity of heritage; in such event the plaintiff, unless proven to those responsible for his detention or for his interroga- have acted in bad faith, shall be exempt from payment of tion by the police; court costs and the onus of defeat; S 2045662181 2026457522 2:188PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FHIS-LAT-88-233-S S December 1988 5 LXXIV. The State shall render full legal assistance free VI. Irreducibility of wages, except as provided in a of charge to whose who prove indigence; collective convention or agreement; LXXV. The State shall indemnify a convicted person for VII. Guaranteed wage level, never lower than the mini- an error made by the judiciary, and shall do likewise for mum wage, for those remunerated on a variable basis; one who is imprisoned beyond the length of time pre- scribed in his sentence; VIII. Payment of the year-end bonus on the basis of full-time remuneration or the amount of the retirement LXXVI. The following are free of charge for those pension; recognized as indigent under the law: IX. Higher remuneration for night work than for day- (a) The civil certificate of birth; time work; (b) The certificate of death; X. Protection of wages pursuant to law; felonious with- LXXVII. The actions of habeas corpus and habeas data holding thereof shall constitute a crime; are free of charge and, pursuant to law, the same is true of acts necessary for the exercise of citizenship; XI. Participation in the profits or earnings, independent of the worker's remuneration and, exceptionally, partic- Paragraph 1. The rules that define the basic rights and ipation in the management of the enterprise, as may be guarantees have immediate application; defined in law; Paragraph 2. The rights and guarantees set forth in this XII. A family allowance for the worker's dependents; Constitution do not exclude others that may flow from the regime and the principles adopted herein, or from XIII. Normal working hours not to exceed 8 hours per international treaties to which the Federative Republic day and 44 hours per week; arrangements for compen- of Brazil is party. sation of hours and a reduction in the work day may be made by collective labor agreement or convention; Chapter II - Social Rights XIV. A 6-hour work day for work performed in uninter- Article 6. rupted shifts, unless otherwise agreed through collective bargaining; Under this Constitution, the social rights are education, health, work, leisure, security, pensions and social assis- XV. Paid time off every week, preferably on Sundays; tance, protection of mothers and infants, and assistance to the unprotected. XVI. Overtime pay at a rate at least 55 percent higher than the normal; Article 7. The following are rights of both urban and rural workers, in addition to other rights directed toward improving their lot in society: XVII. Annual paid vacation remunerated at a rate at least one-third above the normal wage; I. An employment relationship that is protected against arbitrary dismissel or dismissal without just cause, pur- XVIII. Maternity leave, without impairment of employ- suant to complementary law, which shall provide for ment or wages, for a duration of 120 days; compensatory indemnification and other entitlements; XIX. Paternity leave, under terms to be established by II. Insurance in the event of involuntary unemployment; law; III. Participation in an unemployment compensation XX. Protection of the labor market for women by means fund based on length of service, [FGTS]; of specific incentives, pursuant to law; IV. A minimum wage established by law and unified on XXI. Advance notice of dismissal proportional to the a nationwide basis; such wage to be capable of meeting length of service but not less than 30 days, pursuant to the basic necessities of life of the worker and his family, law; in terms of housing, food, education, health care, leisure, clothing, hygiene, transportation, and social security; it XXII. Reduction of the hazards inherent in work, achieved shall be subject to periodic readjustments that preserve by means of health, hygiene, and safety standards; its purchasing power and may not be used as a reference value for any purpose; XXIII. Additional remuneration for arduous, unhealth- ful, or dangerous activities, pursuant to law; V. A wage floor proportional to the scope and complex- ity of the work; XXIV. Retirement benefits; 9 20456621818 2026475752- 2::16PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FBIS-LAT-00-233-3 5 December 1988 6 XXV. Assistance free of charge for children and depen- II. The creation of more than one labor union organiza- dents from birth through the age of 6, in day care centers tion at any level to represent an occupational or eco- and preschools; nomic category in a single geographical zone is forbid- den; such zone shall be defined by the workers or XXVI. Recognition of collective labor agreements and employers concerned but may not be smaller than the conventions; area of a Municipality; XXVII. Protection against the effects of automation, III. It is the duty of the union to defend the collective or pursuant to law; individual rights and interests of the category it repre- sents; this duty extends to judicial or administrative XXVIII. Insurance against accidents on the job, to be questions; paid by the employer but not to the exclusion of the indemnification which the latter is obligated to make if IV. The general meeting shall determine the contribution cited for malice or negligence; to be made by the category, and in the case of an occupational category, said dues shall be collected by XXIX. The right to sue for sums owed him as a result of payroll deduction in order to defray the cost of the employment relationships, such right to expire after: confederative structure of the respective union represen- tation, regardless of the contribution provided for by (a) 5 years for an urban worker, but not more than 2 law; years following the termination of the contract; V. No one shall be required to join or maintain mem- (b) Not more than 2 years for a rural worker following bership in a union; the termination of the contract; VI. It is mandatory that the unions participate in the XXX. Prohibition against differentials in terms of collective bargaining process; wages, duties, and hiring criteria on the basis of sex, age, VII. A retired union member is entitled to vote and to be color, or marital status; elected to positions in the union organization; XXXI. Prohibition against any discrimination concern- ing wages and hiring criteria for a handicapped worker, VIII. An employee who is a union member may not be dismissed after registering as a candidate for a position in union leadership or representation and if elected, even XXXII. Prohibition against distinctions between man- as an alternate, may not be dismissed until 1 year has ual, technical, and intellectual labor, or among the passed since the end of his term of office, unless he respective professions; commits a serious offense pursuant to the law; XXXIII. Prohibition against nighttime work or danger- Sole Paragraph. The provisions of this article apply to ous or unhealthful work for minors under the age of 18, the organization of labor unions in rural areas and in and against any work for children under the age of 14, fishing villages, with due regard for such conditions as except as an apprentice; may be established by law; XXXIV. Equality of rights between a worker who has tenure in his employment and one who is sporadically Article 9. employed; The right to strike is assured, and it is the province of the workers to determine the occasion for exercising this Sole Paragraph. Domestic workers as a category are assured of the rights for which provision is made in right and the interests to be defended thereby; sections IV, VI, VIII, XV, XVII, XVIII, XIX, XXI and Paragraph 1. The law shall define the services or activi- XXIV, as well as their integration into the social security ties that are to be deemed essential, and shall make system; provision for the pressing needs of the community to be met; Article 8. Paragraph 2. Any abuses committed shall subject those Individuals are free to join a professional association or responsible to the penalties of the law. labor union, with due regard for the following: Article 10. 1. The law may not require that authorization from the State, except for registration with the appropriate Workers and employers are assured the opportunity to agency, be obtained in order to establish a labor union, participate on committees and similar bodies of the and the government is forbidden to interfere or inter- public agencies where their occupational or pension vene in union organization; interests are the object of discussion and decisions; L 2026457522 2:20PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FBIS-LAT-88-233-S 5 December 1968 7 Article 11. IV. The office of minister on the Federal Supreme Court; In companies that have more than 200 employees, the V. Positions in the diplomatic service; workers are assured the opportunity to elect a represen- tative whose sole purpose shall be to serve as a direct VI. Officer positions in the Armed Forces. communication link between them and the employers. Paragraph 4. The nationality of a Brazilian who takes either of the following actions shall be declared forfeit: Chapter III - Nationality I. Has his naturalization cancelled by court order by virtue of activities injurious to the national interest; Article 12. II. Acquires another nationality through voluntary nat- The following are considered to be Brazilians: uralization; I. Native-born Brazilians are: Article 13. (a) Those born in the Federative Republic of Brazil, even if born to foreign parents, provided that said parents are The Portuguese language is the official language of the not in the service of their country; Federative Republic of Brazil. (b) Those born outside Brazil to a Brazilian father or Paragraph 1. The flag, the national anthem, the coat of mother, provided that either is in the service of the arms and the national seal are symbols of the Federative Federative Republic of Brazil; Republic of Brazil. (c) Those born outside Brazil to a Brazilian father or Paragraph 2. The States, the Federal District, and the mother, provided that they have been registered at the Municipalities may adopt their own symbols. appropriate Brazilian government office or come to reside in the Federative Republic of Brazil prior to attaining majority and, after attained such, opt for Chapter IV - Political Rights Brazilian nationality at some time; II. Naturalized Brazilians are: Article 14. (a) Those who acquired Brazilian nationality pursuant to Popular sovereignty shall be exercised by universal suf- law; however, only uninterrupted residence for a period frage and by direct and secret ballot, with equal value of 1 year and good moral character shall be required of given to all and, pursuant to law, by means of the persons from Lusophone countries; following: (b) Aliens of any nationality who have resided in the I. Piebescite; Federative Republic of Brazil for more than 30 years without interruption and have not been convicted of a II. Referendum; crime, provided that they apply for Brazilian nationality; III. Popular initiative; Paragraph 1. Citizens of Portugal who reside perma- nently in Brazil shall, if reciprocity is granted in favor of Paragraph 1. Registration to vote and the act of voting Brazilians, be afforded the rights inherent to a native- shall be: born Brazilian, except as provided in this Constitution. I. Obligatory for persons who have attained the age of 18; Paragraph 2. The law may not establish a distinction between native-born and naturalized Brazilians, except II. Optional for: as provided in this Constitution. (a) Those who are illiterate; Paragraph 3. The following positions may be held only. by native-born Brazilians: (b) Those who have attained the age of 70; 1. The offices of President and Vice President of the (c) Those who have attained the age of 16 but are under Republic; the age of 18; II. The office of president of the Chamber of Deputies; Paragraph 2. Neither aliens, nor conscripts who are fulfilling their obligatory military service, may register III. The office of president of the Federal Senate: for the vote. 8 2045662181 2026475792 : 2:221PM RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FRIS-LAT-80-233-S 3 December 1988 8 Paragraph 3. The following are the conditions for elec- II. If the individual in question has more than 10 years of tion to office, pursuant to law: service, he shall be placed on leave of absence by the higher authority and, if elected, shall automatically pass I. Brazilian nationality; to inactive status immediately upon taking office. II. Full possession of one's political rights; Paragraph 9. Complementary law shall establish other instances of ineligibility to hold elective office and the terms under which such ineligibility may cease, in order III. Registration as a voter; to protect the normality and legitimacy of the elections from the influence of economic power or the abuse of a IV. Voting residence in the specific district; function, position, or employment in the direct or indi- rect administration. V. Party affiliation; Paragraph 10. An elective mandate may be challenged in VI. Attainment of at least the following ages: the Electoral Courts within 15 days of the elected per- son's certification; such action is to be supported by (a) 35 years for the offices of President and Vice Presi- evidence of abuse of economic power, corruption or dent of the Republic, and for the office of senator, fraud; Paragraph 11. Proceedings challenging an elective man- (b) 30 years for the offices of governor or lieutenant date shall be heard in secrecy in the court and plaintiff governor of a State or of the Federal District; shall be held liable under the law if deemed to be acting precipitately or in manifest bad faith. (c) 21 years for federal deputy, State or District deputy, mayor and vice mayor, and justice of the peace; Article 15. (d) 18 years for city councilman. Disenfranchisement of political rights is forbidden; they may only be lost or suspended in the following instances: Paragraph 4. Illiterates and persons who are not eligible to register to vote are not eligible for election to office. I. Cancellation of naturalization by a court sentence that has become final; Paragraph 5. The following may not be re-elected to the II. Absolute civil incapacity; same office for the next subsequent term: the President of the Republic, the State and Federal District gover- III. Criminal conviction that has become final, but only nors, the mayors, or those who may have succeeded them for the duration of the sentence; or replaced them during the 6 months prior to the election. IV. Refusal to fulfill an obligation imposed on all, or to perform alternative service, pursuant to Article 5, VIII; Paragraph 6. In order to THE as candidates for other offices, the President of the Republic, the State and V. Administrative dishonesty pursuant to Article 37, Federal District governors, and the mayors must resign paragraph 4. their respective posts not later than 6 months prior to the election. Article 16. Paragraph 7. Neither the spouse, nor blood relatives or A law that alters the electoral process shall enter into in-laws up to the second degree, nor relatives by adop- force only after I year has elapsed since its promulgation. tion of one who holds the office of President of the Republic, State, Territorial or Federal District Gover- Chapter V . Political Parties nor, or Mayor may NEARS for elected office in the territory Article 17. of jurisdiction of the office holder, nor may anyone who has replaced such office holder within 6 months prior to Political parties may be freely created, consolidated, the election do so, unless they already hold an elective merged, and extinguished provided that national sover- office and are a candidate for re-election. eignty, the democratic regime, the principle of multiple parties, and basic human rights are safeguarded and that Paragraph 8. A member of the military who is eligible to the following precepts are observed: register to vote may be elected to office, if the following conditions are met: 1. The party must be Brazilian in character, 1. If the individual in question has less than 10 years of II. No financial resources may be received from a foreign service, he must resign from active military service; entity or government or a source subordinate to same; 6 2045662181 2026457522 2:222 RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE FBIS-LAT-88-233-S 5 December 1988 9 III. Party accounts must be submitted to the Electoral 1. Establish religious sects or churches, subsidize them, Courts; impede their functioning, or maintain relations of dependence or alliance with them or their representa- IV. Parliamentary functioning is to be in accordance tives, without prejudice to collaboration in the public with law; interest pursuant to law; Paragraph 1. The political parties are assured autonomy II. Refuse to honor public documents; in defining their internal structure, organization, and manner of functioning, however their by-laws must III. Create distinctions among Brazilians or preferences contain rules on party loyalty and discipline; among themselves; Paragraph 2. After acquiring legal identity pursuant to civil law, political parties shall record their by-laws with the Superior Electoral Court. Chapter II - The Union Paragraph 3. Political parties are entitled to resources from the party fund and free access to radio and televi- Article 20. sion, pursuant to law. The following are the property of the Union: Paragraph 4. Political parties are forbidden to use para- military forms of organization; I. Those assets which presently belong to it and those which may be attributed to it; Title III - The Organization of the State II. Those unoccupied lands essential to the defense of the borders, the military fortifications and buildings and the Chapter I - Political and Administrative Structure federal highways, and for environmental protection, as defined by law; Article 18. III. All lakes, rivers, and watercourses within its domain, The political and administrative structure of the Feder- or that touch the shores of more than one State, serve as ative Republic of Brazil is comprised of the Union, the boundaries with other countries, or that extend into States, the Federal District, and the Municipalities, all of foreign territory or proceed from same, as well as land which are autonomous, pursuant to this Constitution. along the edges thereof,¹ and the river beaches; Paragraph 1. Brasilia is the federal capital. IV. The river and lake islands in the border zones with other countries, the maritime beaches, and the ocean and Paragraph 2. The Federal Territories are part of the coastal islands, but excluding the areas referred to in Union; creation of a territory and its conversion to a State or reincorporation into its State of origin shall be Article 26, II. regulated in complementary law; V. The natural resources of the continental shelf and the Paragraph 3. The States may merge with each other, exclusive economic zone; subdivide, or dismember themselves in order to join with others or to form new States or Federal Territories VI. The territorial sea; upon approval, expressed in a plebescite, of the popula- tion that is directly interested and with the consent of the VII. The marine lands and their accretions National Congress expressed through complementary law. VIII. The potential sources of hydroelectric power; Paragraph 4. The creation, merger, consolidation, or IX. The mineral resources, including those of the subsoil; dismemberment of Municipalities shall preserve the continuity and the historical-cultural unity of the urban X. The natural subterranean cavities and the archaeolog- environment; it shall be accomplished by state law, the ical and prehistoric sites; requirements of complementary state law having been obeyed, and shall require advance consultation, through XI. The lands traditionally occupied by the Indians. a plebescite, with the populations that are directly inter- ested. Paragraph 1. The States, the Federal District, and the Municipalities, as well as the entities of the direct Article 19. administration of the Union are assured, pursuant to law, a share in the proceeds from the exploitation of The Union, the States, the Federal District, and the petroleum or natural gas, of water resources for electrical Municipalities are forbidden to: energy generation purposes, and of other mineral 2026457522 RCV BY:THE WHITE HOUSE SENT BY:US MISSION TO OAS 11-21-90 : 8:45AM ; 2026470911- 2024566218:# 1 United States Department of State United States Permanent Mission to the OCT 21 A9:56 Organization of American States FAX: 647-0911 Washington, D. C. 20520 DATE November 21, 1990 FACSIMILE TRANSMISSION COVER SHEET TRANSMITTED TO: Ms. Carolyn Cawley The White House (ORGANIZATION) 456-6218 (FAX NUMBER) 456-7750 (TELEPHONE NUMBER) TRANSMITTED FROM: Amb. Luigi R. Einaudi - Dept. of State (ORGANIZATION/NAME) 647-9376 (TELEPHONE NUMBER) PAGES BEING SENT: 4 (DO NOT COUNT THIS COVER SHEET AS A PAGE) SENT BY:US MISSION TO OAS 11-21-90 ; 8:46AM ; 2026470911- 2024566218;# 2 To Ms Cawley From Amb. Einaudi: My search turned up no great quotes, and little likelihood that one would be found. One option would be to fall back on a mix of allusions that build to almost the same thing. Something like the following, which has the advantage of being very Brazilian: In the nineteenth century, Brazilians declared their independence from the Old World, freed their slaves, and founded their republic. 0.4- In this century, Brazilians have led in regional cooperation and Brazil have begun to build the "new world in the tropics" foreseen by Gilberto Business Freyre. Luncheon Remarks But the greatest challenge, a gigantic challenge worthy of this land of boundless frontiers, worthy of the Brazil's mythical bandeirantes -- the super cowboys whose mission is "to open new paths never trod, never known" -- is the dream that is now coming true: The Western Hemisphere is becoming the first fully democratic hemisphere known in the history of man. And Brazil is a leader of this shared democratic adventure. (Return to text praising Collor, etc. ) SENT BY:US MISSION TO OAS 11-21-90 ; 8:46AM ; 2026470911- 2024566218:# 3 NEW WORLD IN THE TROPICS St The Culture of Modern Brazil BY Gilberto Freyre crinro Alfred A. Knopf New York 1959 SENT BY:US MISSION TO OAS 11-21-90 ; 8:47AM ; 2026470911- 2024566218:# 4 Latin America: A Cultural History by Germán Arciniegas TRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH BY Joan MacLean New York : Alfred A. Knopf : 1968 SENT BY:US MISSION TO OAS :11-21-90 : 8:47AM ; 2026470911- 2024566218;# 5 428 LATIN AMERICA: A Cultural History of THE BACKLANDS Until far into the twentieth century, Brazil had to juggle two different and simultaneous processes. One was that of the cities and estates, where civilization became stabilized. The other was that of the frontier, which the bandeirantes had gradually pushed inland toward the backlands-o sertão, In Brazil the concept of the frontier is as old as the nation. It was born at the time of the captaincies in the sixteenth century. Nuclei of violent adventurers kept forming around the outposts. In 1692, the governor general wrote: "The city of São Paulo has much about it of a republic, observing no law, either divine or human." The will-o'-the-wisp that beckoned the bandeirantes onward was not gold, but emeralds. The hero of the time was Fernão Dias Pais, the protagonist of the first epic poem written in Brazil: A Relação Panegírica em Oitava Rima do Gov- ernador Fernão Dias Pais, Descobridor das Esmeraldas (The Panegyric Account in Ottava Rima of Governor Fernão Dias Pais, the Discoverer of Emeralds). Its author was Diogo Grasson Tinoco, whose character is surrounded by mystery. The bandeir- ante in the poem Departs now at last for the boundless frontiers To open new paths never trod, never known Leaving his home and his country in tears 111 To slash through the underbrush, scale ramparts of stone Ford turbulent rivers, build canoes, rafts, or bridges Pushing on despite obstacles through every zone Now with Now defying the jungle, now heedless of cold Conquering summit or valley, a man strong and bold. minds, not Rands only Olavo Bilac, whose full name was Olavo Bras Martins dos Guimarães Bilac (1865-1918), returned to the same subject (con mentery maros) two hundred years later, in the period of Brazil's Parnassus, using it in one of the most beautiful poems of his time: O Caçador de Esmeraldas (The Emeraid-Seeker). The frontier was no more an exclusively Brazilian phenomenon than were the international brigades that moved inland. The frontier of the United States was an unstable line that the Eng- lish and other colonists kept pushing westward. As they did so, the Europeans, chiefly Anglo-Saxons, kept despoiling the Indians of their land. Spain herself had known a frontier on the Iberian Peninsula which receded southward in the course of the eight p.5 of 11-26-90 kraft for joint session BRAZIL ducing an enormous number of soap op- eras (telenovelas) that have found a world market. The visual arts, espe- cially painting, are lively, while liter- ature and the theatre, although important, play a less prominent role in this fast-moving, media-oriented society. Traditionally, Brazilian culture has developed around regional subjects, with the country's northeast normally identified with nativist and indigenist themes, while the urban centers of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro have demon- strated a tendency toward a more open, international, and European-oriented expression. With the post-1964 push to a more integrated national culture, these tendencies have diminished some- what but remain central to understand- ing the uniqueness of this vast nation. From an international perspective, Bra- zil is at the center of a Portuguese- speaking world that also includes Por- tugal, Angola, Mozambique, and other former Portuguese colonies. Its culture is an important reference point for the lusophone countries as well as the Spanish-speaking nations of the West- ern Hemisphere. zhorje Among the more familiar figures in Brazilian literary culture, several stand out. Jorge Amado, whose works depict the rich cultural tapestry of Brazil's good toguote northeast in the 20th century, espe- cially that of his native state of Bahia, has had several best-selling novels pub- The statues in front of Palacio do Planalto honor the first workers in Brasilia. lished in English. A number of his works also have been adapted to film, including Gabriela, Clove and Cin- namon, and The Two Husbands of 1964. The coup leaders chose as presi- members of Congress and six delegates Dona Flor. Machado de Assis, Brazil's dent Army Marshal Humberto Castello chosen from each state by the majority most important late 19th and early 20th Branco, who was elected by the Na- party in the state legislature. In Janu- century novelist, produced several tional Congress on April 11, 1964. ary 1985, the electoral college elected world-class pieces, including Dom Cas- Castello Branco was followed by retired Tancredo Neves from the opposition murro and Epitaph for a Small Win- Army Marshal Arthur da Costa e Silva Brazilian Democratic Movement ner, each rivaling the works of Henry (1967-69), Gen. Emilio Garrastazu Me- (PMDB) to run against the candidate of James in their subtlety and complexity. dici (1969-74), and retired Gen. Ernesto the government party, Federal Deputy Carlos Drummond de Andrade, a poet Geisel (1974-79). Geisel began the polit- Paulo Maluf. However, Tancredo Neves from Minas Gerais who died in 1987, ical liberalization process, known as fell ill before he was to be inaugurated was a world-acclaimed writer whose abertura, or "opening," which was car- on March 15, and died on April 21, 1985. prose and poetry occupied center stage ried further by his successor, Joao Bap- His vice president, the former Senator for over three decades. Gilberto tista de Oliveira Figueiredo (1979-85). Jose Sarney, who had been acting presi- Freyre, who died in 1987, was a Per- Figueiredo not only permitted the re- dent since inauguration day, became nambuco-based sociologist and social turn to Brazil of politicians who had president upon Neves' death. critic whose writings, including been exiled or banned during the 1960s Masters and Slaves, are key to under- and early 1970s, but also allowed them Cultural Achievements standing the history of the country's in 1982 to run for state and federal of- race relations and its transition from a fices, including the first direct elections As its geography, population size, and rural to an urban-based society. for governor since 1966. ethnic diversity would imply, Brazil's Roberto da Matta, an exceptionally Direct elections for president were cultural profile and achievements are keen social commentator from Rio de still not permitted, and President extensive, vibrant, and constantly Janeiro, has written a number of semi- Figueiredo's successor was chosen by changing. Popular culture predomi- nal studies on carnival and its rela- an electoral college consisting of all nates, with a thriving popular music in- tionship to Brazilian national identity. dustry, relatively active cinema, and a highly developed television empire, pro- Rui Barbosa 295 diplomat/writer BRAZIL Moacyr Scliar, an important novelist Two Husbands of Dona Flor, Bruno state and the federal district) elected to and essayist from Porto Alegre, has Barreto's adaptation of Jorge Amado's 8-year terms, and 487 deputies elected written extensively on Brazil's Jewish ribald novel, They Don't Wear Black at large in each state and territory to community and its role in national life. Tie, directed by Leon Hirzsman and de- 4-year terms. The elections are based Popular music has produced many picting the struggle of Brazil's labor on proportional representation, of the most interesting examples of na- movement under military rule; Gaijin, weighted in favor of less populous tional culture. Among the better known a chronicle of the country's Japanese states. The next congressional elections contemporary artists are Chico Buar- community by Tizuka Yamasaki; and are scheduled for 1990. que de Hollanda, a sort of Bob Dylan. Pixote, the story of Sao Paulo's juvenile The apex of the judicial system is Also important from a domestic as well delinquents, known as pivetes, directed the Supreme Federal Tribunal. Its 11 as international perspective are such by Hector Babenco and featuring the justices, including the chief justice, are artists as Caetano Velloso, Gilberto Gil, internationally acclaimed actress, appointed by the president to serve un- Maria Bethania, and Gal Costa, all Marilia Pera. til age 70. identified with the tropical sounds of As the most pervasive medium in Brazil is divided administratively Brazil. Antonio Carlos Jobim (contem- the country, television plays a prepon- into 23 states, 3 territories, and a porary) and Heitor Villa-Lobos (tradi- derant role in developing a national cul- federal district, Brasilia. The frame- tional) are probably the two composers tural identity. Television versions of work of state and local governments best known internationally. Several works by the major exponents of na- closely parallels that of the federal gov- Brazilian classical musicians have tional culture are given wide play, with ernment. Governors, elected for 4-year earned international acclaim, including numerous adaptations of historical nov- terms, have far more limited powers Antonio Menezes, the cellist, and els and popular literature. The than do their counterparts in the Arthur Moreira Lima and Antonio telenovela have proven to be profitable United States. This is due to the highly Guedes Barbosa, both pianists. for TV Globo, the country's leading centralized nature of the Brazilian sys- The visual arts play an important television network, which now exports tem and to a constitution that reserves role in Brazilian national life. Several them to Latin America, the United to the central government all powers outstanding museums and galleries are States, Europe, Africa, and even the not specifically delegated to the states. located in Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, People's Republic of China. The limited taxing authority granted to and the cities of Salvador in Bahia and Sports also play an important role states and municipalities-the only ter- Ouro Preto in Minas Gerais feature in national culture, with soccer occupy- ritorial subdivisions of the states-has some of the hemisphere's most impor- ing an important part of virtually tended further to weaken their power. tant examples of Baroque architecture everyone's life, either playing, viewing, The three remote, frontier territo- and religious art. Brasilia is known for or cheering for a favorite team, both ries are administered by governors ap- its futuristic design and represents the regionally as well as nationally. Edson pointed by the federal government. The country's forward thrust. The following Arantes do Nascimento, better known federal district, moved from Rio de are among the long list of 20th-century as "Pele," for two decades was the Janeiro to Brasilia in April 1960, is gov- artists notable for their contributions world's best known athlete and a major erned by a governor appointed by the to national identity: Emiiano Di Caval- figure on Brazil's world championship president and approved by the Senate. canti, who depicted the cabaret life of teams in 1958, 1962, and 1970. Vol- urban Rio and Sao Paulo during the leyball, water sports, track and field, Principal Government Officials 1920s and 1930s; Candido Portinari, the and basketball are other major national President-Jose Sarney Sao Paulo muralist, whose works por- sports in which Brazil has been suc- Vice President-Vacant tray the suffering of the country's mi- cessful in international competition. President's Civil Household-Ronaldo grant farmers and working classes; Costa Couto Manabu Mabe, the Sao Paulo artist of Zico GOVERNMENT See swads of President's Military Household-Gen. Japanese birth, whose lyrical abstract Rubens Bayma Denys paintings can be viewed in museums around the world; and Tarsila do Brazil is a federative republic with Cabinet Amaral, the leading member of Brazil's broad powers granted to the federal Foreign Affairs-Roberto Costa de 1922 Modern Art Week, whose works of government. A Constituent Assembly Abreu Sodre magic realism continue to set the pace began to draft a new constitution in Justice-Paulo Brossard de Souza for contemporary artists in Brazil more February 1987. It is expected to com- Pinto than half a century later. plete its work by January 1988. Every- Finance-Luis Carlos Bresser Pereira The cinema is another lively aspect thing from system of government to of Brazilian arts. In the 1960s, Brazil's federal/state relations is under discus- Education-Jorge Konder Bornhausen Labor-Almir Pazzianotto Cinema Novo (New Cinema), based sion. At the national level, the current Health-Roberto Figueira Santos mainly on social protest and incorporat- constitution establishes a presidential Welfare and Social Security-Raphael ing camera techniques from U.S. and system with three "independent and European masters, proved to have a de Almeida Magalhaes harmonious powers"-executive, legis- Communications-Antonio Carlos major international impact. Directors lative, and judicial. It forbids delega- such as Glauber Rocha and Carlos Di- Magalhaes tion of powers and provides for a series of checks and balances. Mines and Energy-Antonio Aureliano egues won awards at Cannes and nu- Chaves de Mendonca merous other international festivals. By The president is assisted by a vice Industry and Commerce-Jose Hugo the 1970s, national cinema began to president (elected with the president), Castelo Branco move toward a more commercialized, a cabinet (presidentially appointed), international expression and produced Planning Secretary of the Presidency- and specialized administrative and ad- Anibal Teixeira de Souza several notable successes, including The visory bodies. The bicameral National Congress UPDATE NOTE: Leadership changes may have consists of 72 senators (three for each occurred here since the date of this entry. Check the directory of officials beginning on 1 for 296 most recent information. COLOR November 19, 1990 MEMORANDUM TO: LANGER FROM: CAROLYN RE: BRAZIL larger Brazil and the US share a long history of friendship and cooperation. Traditionally, Brazil has been a leader in the inter- American community and has played an important role in collective security efforts as well as in economic cooperation in the Western Hemisphere. Brazil aligned with the Allies during both World Wars. Brazil is an active party in many regional and international organizations. These include: -- the Inter-American Treaty of Reciprocal Assistance (the Rio Treaty) -- the OAS -- founding member of the Amazon Pact -- founding member of the Latin American Integration Association, the successor to the Lat Am Free Trade Association -- Charter member of the UN -- Member of GATT (Round will be underway in Geneva during POTUS' visit to Brazil) The US and Brazil: The United States was the first country to recognize Brazil's independence in 1822. Brazil's 19th century leader, Emperor Dom Pedro II, admired Abraham Lincoln and visited the US during the 1876 Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia -- the first Brazilian chief of state to visit. (Quote to come.) The agreements between Brazil and the US include a treaty of peace and friendship; an extradition treaty, a joint participation treaty on communication satellites, and scientific cooperation, civil aviation, and maritime agreements. We exchange professors under Fulbright and other academic programs and carry out university cooperation projects. We are both frontier societies and have both had 3 capitals: (New York, Philadelphia, D.C.) and (Salvador, Rio, Brasilia). Epitacio da Silva Pessoa President-elect of the Federative Republic of Brazil in 1919; 2nd chief of state to visit the US. He made remarks to a joint session of the US Congress. In his remarks, he referred to Brazil as the "ancient friend" of the US, acknowledging that the relationship embraced their recent diplomatic agreement at Versailles. As President of a nation precariously dependent on the export of agricultural products, he underscored that Brazil would see in "the energies and capacity of the US for trade" her own "widest possibilities for the development of her trade and commerce." Walt Whitman wrote a poem to the Brazilian people to herald the birth of the Republic in 1889. "Welcome, Brazilian Brother, thy ample place is ready. A loving hand, a smile from the North, a sunny instant hail! Let the future care for itself, where it reveals it's troubles, impedimentas, ours, ours the present throe, the democratic aim, the acceptance and the faith; To thee today our reaching arm, our turning neck -- to thee from us the expectant eye. Thou cluster free! Thou brilliant lustrous one! One thou, learning well, The true lesson of a nation's light in the sky, more shining than the cross, more than the crown, the height to be superb humanity." Excerpts of President Jose Sarney's speech before a Joint Session of the US Congress -- September 11, 1986 --On Jose Joaquim Maia "In 1787 the young Brazilian, Jose Joaquim Maia, sought out Thomas Jefferson, then Minister Plenipotentiary in Paris, to ask his support for our independence. Two years later, our hero, Tiradentes, who dreamed of a free and republican Brazil, was hanged, drawn, and quartered, his severed body hung for all to see, in the streets and roads, as cruel example to smother the dream of freedom, and to declare that it would not come forth in the land. Do you know what the King's agents found among the papers that had set the hears of our martyr afire with the holy madness of independence? The Constitution of the United States of America." On Congress "Congress is a school for public life. It is greater than the sum of all its Members. This institution is the sovereignty of the people. One learns here to listen rather than to speak. To listen to all the voices, all the groups of society, all the emotions, all the injustices. Here, all decisions are questioned " The National Anthem of Brazil The music was written in 1831 on the accession of Emperor Dom Pedro II. New text adopted in 1922 but same tune. "A challenge from a people who were fearless; Thenceforth the sun of Freedom climbed our country's sky and poured its rays upon us, bright and peerless " "Oh mighty vision, well we know that we survey our country's future greatness shown for us there 10/30 9 a.m. REVISED VERSION PRESIDENTIAL SPEECH - BRAZIL SETTING O I am delighted to begin my trip in Brazil, the largest country of Latin America and the fifth largest in the world. This is an immense land -- covering half of South America and four time zones -- with a spirit to match. The success of your economy (the world's eighth largest) and your society is vital to the well-being of all nations in the Americas. Your 30-year old opace-age capital Brasilia symbolizes your nation's energy, inventiveness and aspiration to greatness. I stand today in your congress, like ours, one see merno square vers 3 of three independent branches of government. I am impressed that so many members could appear today during your congressional recess. I come to Latin America and to Brazil at a time of great international change and promise. Events in Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union may have garnered most of the headlines SO far. But North Americans are beginning to understand that a political and economic revolution of truly major proportions is occurring in the southern part of this hemisphere. I have come because I wished to witness this revolution -- and to pledge my country's support to see it carried forward successfully. THE CHANGING HEMISPHERE What is happening in the hemisphere marks this decade as the most important of the 20th century for Latin America. Its significance in fact compares with that of the age of decolonization and political independence of the 19th century. But in this case, the revolution has two sides -- both political and economic. contrast 19thc. w/ 20thc $ draw vision for the next century. The political revolution reflects the aspirations of the region's peoples for self-rule and a voice over decisions that affect their lives. This stirring tide has swept away almost all authoritarian rule in the region. It will lead one day to the*world's first completely democratic hemisphere 2 But running alongside -- perhaps sometimes less noticed -- is an equally profound change in the way in which the peoples of Latin America have come to view the structure and operation of their own economies. Many in Latin America are now beginning for the first time to enjoy economic as well as political democracy. Revolutions, whether political or economic, are untidy. They destroy special privilege. Along with new opportunities, they create new uncertainties. They demand special leaders to provide a steady compass in a storm of change. In this respect, our hemisphere -- and your country -- have proved fortunate. Your president, Fernando Collor, represents a fresh breed of young leadership which is sweeping across Latin America. Since I first met President Collor last January, I have come to value greatly our friendship. He and I have discussed his wish to see Brazil take its rightful place among the world's leading industrial democracies. We in the United States stand ready to help realize this goal. President Collor has spoken of Brazil's rightful place at the table of the first world. What is so important about that table is that there is no limit to its size. Brazil belongs there -- and so do Argentina and Chile, Uruguay and Venezuela. Getting there simply demands courage and a willingness to make hard choices. Today's presidents of these and other countries of the region have shown that they understand this. Latin America's political revolution grew from the grass roots. Its still-uncompleted economic revolution must essentially develop the same way -- from the demands and efforts of your peoples for more efficent, market-driven economies with a fairer distribution of benefits. But the United States wishes to help. This is not simply altruism -- in fact, we have a very large stake in your success. In other words, we have a clear interest in the promotion of economic as well as political democracy in the hemisphere. Your gain will be our gain in terms of expanding markets for our goods and technologies. Your growth will provide new opportunities for investment by U.S. companies. And expansion of economic opportunity for the great mass of Latin America's peoples will pay enormous dividends in terms of social and ecological stability for the entire planet. 3 BILATERAL RELATIONSHIP The United States has a profound national interest in improving its relations with the countries of Latin America in the years ahead. The problems that characterized the past decade -- debt fatigue, the fragility of emerging democratic institutions, a struggle for consensus on a regional economic model, the growing drug menace -- have also created a window of opportunity for strengthening the US-Latin American relationship. We are approaching the 500th anniversary of Columbus' encounter with the New World. Eight years after Columbus, the first Portuguese squadrons under Pedro Alves Cabral arrived in Brazil. We are both frontier societies and our two youthful and vigorous nations have grown together. Our relations have been strong and productive. But today, nearing five centuries after Columbus and Cabral, we face a series of challenges which offer great promise -- but which will also test our ability to work cooperatively together. Brazil has already taken major steps to meet these of challenges. It celebrated its return to democracy last year with the first popular election of a Brazilian go President in 29 years. Seventy million Brazilian voters participated in one of the largest expressions of democratic choice that the world has ever seen. Your araft 11-26 for recent gubernatorial and legislative elections represented one more major step in this process. I congratulate you and the Brazilian people on these achievements. As the two largest countries of the hemisphere, Brazil and the U.S. have a special responsibility for leadership. Our bilateral relations remain close and productive -- but, as we approach the 21st century, I believe there is even more that we can accomplish together in addressing a large and expanding agenda of global issues. These issues touch every one of us -- they include environmental concerns: the absolute need to eliminate the scourges of drugs and of terrorism; arms control; poverty and human rights. The problem of drugs affects both of our countries in similar ways. It ravages neighborhoods in both Rio de Janeiro and Washington, D.C. I believe we now understand that we cannot make progress against this threat by pointing fingers of blame at each other. 4 We in the U.S. recognize that we must do more to reduce demand. You recognize that the spreading tentacles of the drug industry threaten democratic society. Together, we recognize that we must continue to increase cooperation to protect our children -- the next generation. President Collor has taken a strong lead here by using his office to publicize the threat drugs pose to Brazil's young. I pledge the full efforts of my government to continue to lower our consumption and thus dampen incentives to drug production. Further, as we both learn better how to reduce consumption and treat drug addiction, we can more fully share these lessons. Brazil and the U.S. are also cooperating closely in efforts to protect the global environment. Brazilian and U.S. scientists work side by side to study biodiversity in the Brazilian rain forest. Our space agencies cooperate in remote sensing activities to measure the impact of human settlement in the Amazon region. Our environmental agencies are tackling together our common problems of urban pollution and waste management. I believe that the Brazilian people understand that Latin America should not - - and need not -- make the same mistakes that we did in more careless times: in destroying large tracts of our forests, in creating air and water pollution requiring large investments to correct, or in allowing development to override the human rights of native populations. My country stands ready to cooperate with Brazil and other countries of the hemisphere develop a new and more sustainable economic model -- to allow development without the human and economic costs of environmental degradation. You can be proud of Brazil's new leadership in these fields. There is no better symbol of this than Brazil's constitutional protections for indigenous peoples or its offer to host the second U.N. conference on the environment in 1992. 5 ECONOMIC REFORM/THE EAI Thirty years ago, Juscelino Kubitschek, the president of Brazil -- and the founder of Brasilia -- received here an illustrious predecessor of mine named Dwight D. Eisenhower. Gazing upon the new city of Brasilia, then under construction, Ike spoke of the towers rising on the Brazilian plateau as "an epic worthy of this nation's vast possibilities and aspirations. Today we descendants of these two great men come together again to undertake a fresh and even more daunting task -- the construction of a new economic relationship for the Western Hemisphere. I have called this effort an "Enterprise for the Americas." Its full realization will take far longer than the XX years it took to build Brasilia. But with the drive of a Kubitschek -- and the determination of an Eisenhower -- it will happen. I am speaking of a new relationship born of the triumph of democracy in this hemisphere and directed towards the necessary next step -- the essential task of raising the standard of living and expanding the economic freedoms of the peoples of Latin America. President Collor and other Latin American leaders understand that democracy is an economic asset. They perceive that to give this asset value, a new vision is needed, one which encourages innovation and competition and which produces maximum opportunity for the individual. Such a new vision requires a redefinition of institutions and their relationship with the peoples they exist to serve. Your president put it well, I think, when he said in his inaugural address: "It is not enough to govern for the people; we must reconcile the government with the people, the power with the citizenry and the State with the Nation. But changes will not happen easily. They will require difficult choices and sacrifices from all of us. Economies which depended on protection and on state regulation must open to competition and greater economic liberty. The transition may for a time be painful for many -- unfortunately including some who already suffer from poverty and deprivation. 6 But the results -- a growing economy and a sound currency -- will lead to new opportunities and a welcome sense of stability. The major challenges that Latin America has faced over the past decade has been economic adjustment. Development came easily to the region in the 60s and 70s. Private investment and bilateral, multilateral and private bank lending were readily available. Economies were bouyant and world demand was high. Conditions were tolerant of mismanagement, inefficiency and protectionism. This is no longer the case. Latin America producers now compete for capital and markets for Southeast Asia, with the mediterranean countries of Europe and with aggressively exporting industrialized countries. Eastern Europe has added a new dimension to the demand for capital. Latin America is already adjusting. Your exports are rising. Fiscal reform is underway. So is privatization. Governments are doing away with subsidies which skew the draft market. They are giving more attention to agriculture a Joint sinssion sector which, as we in the U.S. have discovered, can be a powerful engine of development. There is a rapidly growing consensus in the region about a new model of Latin America development. It challenges certain aspects of Latin America's traditional political culture and institutions. As elsewhere in the world, shifting human aspirations are creating new market realities. Political systems too must modernize to keep up. Latin America will have to make further adjustments to integrate into the international economy; yet they must do so if they are to compete on an equal footing with Southeast Asia and emerging European economies, as well as to take advantage of the European Market after 1992. We are confident that you can and will succeed in this task. We know that solutions must be found by Brazilians, by Chileans, by Peruvians -- but we in the United States want to help. 7 O The Enterprise for the Americas concept that I have proposed calls for a major hemispheric effort to bring our nations closer together in the three key areas of trade, investment and debt: -- On trade, our first attention should be on successful conclusion of the Uruguay Round negotiations in Geneva. The Round, now in its final stages, holds out a prospect of important trade benefits for Latin 5.of America's economies. The U.S. is aligned with Latin America in fighting for an end to agricultural export 11.26 subsidies and new openings for developing country exports. What is at stake is not just numbers. It represents major new market opportunities and a higher graftint forition standard of living for the farmer in Mato Grosso, the textile worker in Parana and the engineer in Sao Paulo. -- The Round and Bilateral Trade Agreements are the first step; they create the necessary conditions for a regime of eventual free trade encompassing all of Latin America and the U.S. We see the Southern Cone Common Market, now developing under the leadership of President Collor and his fellow presidents in neighboring countries, as a major further step towards this goal. -- On investment, we look to Latin American governments, where required, to lift the dead hand of state control. Doing SO will allow your entrepreneurs to invest, sell and adapt to changing economic conditions. It will help provide meaningful and well-paid jobs to your workers. It is the key to lifting a large percentage of Latin America's peoples out of the grinding poverty in which they live today. Brazilians know what foreign investment can help produce -- witness its contribution to the dynamism of Sao Paulo and the $10 billion of U.S. investment already in this country. Just imagine what the result could be in terms of jobs for your workers and goods for your people if Brazilian dynamism were completely unleashed! 8 On debt, we are prepared to work with Brazil and with others in Latin America to write down and restructure U.S. official debts contracted on concessionary terms. These swaps have the potential of liberating substantial resources for use in environmental 6 projects. I believe that this can be a very exciting 90 avenue of new collaboration between us. Specifically, it can help Latin America's nations to develop and for prosper without undue ecological cost to the communities and countryside upon which we depend and within which our children will be raised. Our new approach to official debt is intended to complement commercial debt restructuring through the Brady Plan. I understand the importance to Brazil -- and to the international financial community -- of reaching a new agreement on commercial debt. Continued access to global capital flows is vital to your development. Although we do not sit at the table of such negotiations, we stand ready to assist where appropriate to ensure they reach fruition. We have submitted a request to the Congress for legislation that will give us the authorities we need to implement these proposals. VISION Let me stress, my vision of an "Enterprise for the p.qof 11-26-90 Americas" is of a joint undertaking involving the effort and imagination of all nations in this hemisphere. A great draft Brazilian poet, Jose Bonifacio, once said that "Brazilians are enthusiasts of a beautiful ideal. As we approach the for 21st century, let us all hold fast to the "beautiful ideal" of greater prosperity and freedom of choice for our peoples. Joint session At the beginning of this address, I said that I had come to Brazil and to Latin America as witness to a political and an economic revolution in the hemisphere. The political revolution was accomplished by brave and courageous efforts by democratically-elected leaders such as you here in this chamber. You are the pioneers -- you have shown that change need not issue from the barrel of a gun. It can and is taking place under the rule of law. 9 It is now the time to complete this revolution by enacting a matching economic bill of rights for Brazil and for all the nations of Latin America. This will be in many ways a harder task than writing constitutions or organizing elections. But its objective will be similar -- the unchaining of your economic possibilities to match your new political freedoms. And its promise is to create a hemisphere of new productivity, open markets and expanding possibilities from Laborador to Lima, from Boston to Buenos Aires, from Pittsburg to Porto Alegre. You and I together are privileged to be witnesses together to such a vision as we move towards the new century which can make it a reality. Doc SEARABR 4345