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Originally Processed With FOIA(s): FOIA Number: S S FOIA MARKER This is not a textual record. This is used as an administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential Library Staff. Record Group/Collection: George H.W. Bush Presidential Records Collection/Office of Origin: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File Backup Files Subseries: Chron File, 1989-1993 OA/ID Number: 13764 Folder ID Number: 13764-009 Folder Title: Turkey 7/19/20 [OA 8325] Stack: Row: Section: Shelf: Position: G 26 21 5 3 July 9, 1991 MEMORANDUM FOR TONY SNOW FROM: JENNIFER GROSSMAN SUBJECT: MORE BACKGROUND ON TURKISH-GREEK RELATIONS AND TURKEY'S GEOSTRATEGIC PERSPECTIVE The following are excerpts from a paper by Ali Karaosmanoglu, a member of the Foreign Policy Institute (Ankara) and the Social Studies Foundation (Istanbul). "Turkey defines its security options within three interacting strategic environments: the global system, implying mainly Turkey's position as regards the Soviet Union and the United States; its bilateral relations with Greece, involving mainly Cyprus and the Aegean; and its position within the Middle East subsystem." "After the Second World War, Turkey's freedom of choice was strictly limited by the Soviet threat and by the bipolar and heterogenous character of the international system." "In those years there was a high degree of coincidence between American and Turkish security interests." "The last two decades have drastically altered the framework within which Turkish policy operates." "In the 1960s and 1970s the circumstances which had induced Turkey to link its security interests completely with those of the United States underwent significant changes. In this period, Turkey's ties with the United States were steadily reduced. A number of specific political irritants played a role. The first was President Johnson's blunt letter to Prime Minister Inonu in June 1964, warning that Turkey was not permitted to use U.S. military equipment in an operation against Cyprus. " "The most recent indication of improving relations between Washington and Ankara is the considerable increase in U.S. assistance to Turkey proposed last February by the Reagan Administration." "The disputes between Greece and Turkey -- especially those over Cyprus and the Aegean, two critical strategic areas from Turkey's security standpoint -- constitute an important factor contributing to the erosion of NATO's southern flank." "The first and probably most urgent problem concerns the methods of settlement of the Cyprus conflict. For Turkey, intercommunal talks constitute the only valid procedure for reaching a mutually acceptable and lasting settlement in Cyprus. Greece does not seem to have adopted this approach. It rather favors the internationalization of the conflict, drawing in especially the nonaligned nations, the European Community, and both superpowers." "Turkey believes that bilateral negotiations would be best for the Aegean as well. Because of the Special circumstances of that sea, an equitable solution to the existing problems can be found only through such negotiations. Greece again rejects this approach, and favors the automatic application of the equidistance principle as in the continental shelf case." "It should be noted that this Greek dislike for negotiated settlement has been accentuated since Andreas Papandreou came to power. The present Greek government has asserted that Turkey is a security threat, and has demanded from NATO and the United States "guarantees" to protect Greece from its fellow Alliance member. NATO and the United States have not accepted the view that Turkey menaces Greece, and have refused the Greek demand for guarantees." "The Turkish perception of Greek-Turkish problems is traditionally more moderate than the Greek one." "The Republic of Turkey, founded on Kemalist principles, had to eliminate the theocratic remnants of the Ottoman Empire and to develop a secular political structure. Thus, despite its religious and historic affinity with the nations of the Middle East, modern Turkey preferred not to show much interest in the region and especially in the Arab world, although it tried to maintain friendly relations with all its neighbors." "After the Second World War, options being strictly limited, Turkey approached the Arab world from the unidimensional perspective of East-West tension." "Turkey's relations with its West European allies were much more intimate than its contacts with Middle Eastern countries- -and Ankara's lack of interest in the Middle East was misinterpreted by the Arab nations as an unfriendly attitude. President's Trip to Greece and Turkey Concept Paper Overview The President's July 18-22 trip to Greece and Turkey provides a major opportunity for us to advance our relationships with the Mitsotakis and Ozal governments. The President will be the first American President since Eisenhower (1959) to visit both countries. His trip has dominated the Greek and Turkish press since it was announced and has assumed enormous symbolic importance in each country. Ozal and Mitsotakis have signalled that they expect new security and economic assistance initiatives from us and their publics have high expectations that the visit will result in stronger and closer relations with the U.S. We are well positioned to use the trip to strengthen and broaden our relationships with both countries. We should announce new initiatives to convey in concrete terms our interest in closer ties with Greece and Turkey. We should also emphasize our willingness to work with them to promote better Greek-Turkish relations and progress on Cyprus. This will be more difficult to achieve. We will have to use the President's speeches and remarks to pound away at this theme and should prepare ideas for the President to put forward on the trip. The stop in Greece is in many ways the more important of the two. Prime Minister Mitsotakis has adopted a clear U.S. bias since taking office in April 1990. He has consistently backed us on major international issues, such as the Gulf crisis, and has not pushed the President publicly on Cyprus. Mitsotakis has been criticised by Papandreou and even some in his own party for having allowed the U.S. to tilt toward Turkey on his watch without having received anything tangible in return for Greece. In essence, Mitsotakis cannot now demonstrate that his close relationship with the U.S. has paid off for Greece. Retaining only a slim, two-vote majority in Parliament, Mitsotakis wants and needs a greater demonstration of support from the President during the visit. The President's visit to Turkey, on the other hand, will likely take on a celebratory air of the extraodinary expansion of the relationship during the past year. Total U.S. aid has never been greater and Ozal's close relationship with the President has convinced many Turks and Greeks that the U.S. has chosen to shift 2 its traditionally careful balance of Greek and Turkish interests decidely in favor of Ankara. The Turks want the President to articulate an even more expansive vision of the relationship, however, during his visit. They are pressing us for a joint statement proclaiming new strategic cooperation in the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East. They want more U.S. defense and economic aid. The challenge for the President's trip to Turkey is to convey the sense of a closer relationship while avoiding promising more than we can deliver. Ozal will also insist on joining himself to the President for the entire two days in Turkey. While the President will want to show support for him, he should also go out of his way to demonstrate an interest in and respect for Turkey itself and the interests and values that have made us partners for forty years. OBJECTIVES FOR BOTH COUNTRIES 1) Emphasize U.S. desire to improve and expand relations with both countries, especially on defense and security issues. -Public remarks should emphasize what U.S. has in common with both Turkey and Greece--NATO partnership; democratic and free market values; interest in stability for the Eastern Mediterranean. -We should avoid, however, arguing publicly the merits of 7:10. 2) Affirm U.S. willingness to help resolve Greek-Turkish differences, including Cyprus, stressing need for compromise and flexibility on major, divisive issues. -President should suggest ways to move forward on Cyprus: we should support UNSYG's attempt to convene an international conference by September. -President should also convince Ozal and Mitsotakis to agree to a bilateral meeting this summer on major differences, including a non-agression pact, agreement on avoiding altercations in Aegean; and agreement on Aegean seabed issues. -We should hold open the possibility of the President suggesting Ozal and Mitsotakis meet with him together during the trip on Crete or in Istanbul to seek progress on some of these issues. 3 OBJECTIVES FOR GREECE 1) Encourage Mitsotakis' inclinations to seek closer ties with the U.S. but demonstrate to him, the Greek political establishment and public that pro-U.S. policies pay off in concrete terms. -Visit itself will help to draw attention to long- standing ties between U.S. and Greece. We should emphasize in remarks fact that this is first Presidential visit in 30 years. -President should announce in speech to Parliament invitation for Karamanlis to make State visit in 1992. He should also reaffirm invitation for Mitsotakis to make an official working visit. -Announce initiatives in security assistance: F-16 purchases; lease of Knox frigates; COBS MOU; continued healthy $350 million in security assistance. 2) Work with the Greeks to forge compromises on key issues with Turkey--Cyprus, Aegean issues, non-aggression pact. -As noted previously, will require Presidential involvement with both leaders and possible tripartite meeting. 3) Consult closely with Greece to maintain stability in the Balkans. -Follow up June 27 bilateral discussions on Balkans by stressing U.S. -Greek consultation on this issue during visit. -We should refer to our support of Greek interests in Balkans in public statements. This will also reinforce message of benefits of close relationship with U.S. -In addition, we should propose joint U.S.-Greek technical assistance for Albania, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria to emphasize Greek expertise and our common objectives. 4) Communicate privately and publicly our rationale for a strong U.S. relationship with Turkey and need for increased aid. 4 -President should make this point in meetings with Mitsotakis, as he has done before SO that Greeks understand from him necessity of continued expanded ties to Turkey. -We should be careful about framing this publicly. May be able to do best by reference to Turkey's Gulf war commitment in speech and remarks. OBJECTIVES FOR TURKEY 1) Seek agreement on continued, enhanced U.S.-Turkish security relationship produced by the Gulf conflict. -We will want to maintain greater access to Turkish facilities enjoyed during the Gulf conflict for at least as long as our redeployed forces from northern Iraq are in Turkey. -Frame enhanced U.S. access as manifestation of our desire for a strategic dialogue/understanding with Turkey on the Gulf and Middle East. -Emphasize strategic dialogue in public remarks but avoid a joint statement which could antagonize Greece. Compromise could be both Presidents mentioning strategic dialogue and common interests in their respective press statements at joint press conference. 2) Strenghten Turkish military capabilities to respond to future regional contingencies: -Make commitment to 80-plane F-16 buy. President could dramatize by visiting F-16 plant at Murted. -Reconfirm Administration commitment to greater FY-92 FMS level--assert privately and publicly that we will seek full funding ($625 FMS, $75 ESF). -Resell package of security assistance Administration produced for Turkey since start of Gulf conflict. 3) Support Turkey's desire for further economic integration with West. --Reaffirm support for EC membership and enhanced trade and investment relationship with EC in meantime. 5 -Suggest ways to expand U.S. -Turkish trade but hold off on FTA. Point to greater Turkish use of GSP privileges and personal involvement of Mosbacher and Hills as avenues for more active discussion of these issues. -Keep pushing for international community to make good on Gulf crisis economic support payments to Turkey, including Saudi oil aid. 4) Convey support for Ozal to help him domestically while being careful to not personalize the relationship excessively. President should also pay respect to importance of Turkey and its institutions to western security. -Since Ozal will be with President for entire schedule, their personal friendship and Gulf alliance will be emphasized. President will want to continue to praise Ozal's leadership and courage during Gulf conflict. -At the same time, President should stress our respect for the Turkish people, the military and other leaders to convey an interest in Turkey beyond Ozal. We can do this by meeting with opposition leaders, praising the role of the Turkish military in the Gulf conflict and paying attention to this theme in the public statements. -Visit to the Ataturk Mausoleum and historic sites in Istanbul will also help on this theme. 5) As with Greece, emphasize the importance of movement on Cyprus and Greek-Turkish issues and need for compromise and flexibility on both sides. President's Trip to Greece and Turkey Concept Paper Overview The President's July 18-22 trip to Greece and Turkey provides a major opportunity for us to advance our relationships with the Mitsotakis and Ozal governments. The President will be the first American President since Eisenhower (1959) to visit both countries. His trip has dominated the Greek and Turkish press since it was announced and has assumed enormous symbolic importance in each country. Ozal and Mitsotakis have signalled that they expect new security and economic assistance initiatives from us and their publics have high expectations that the visit will result in stronger and closer relations with the U.S. We are well positioned to use the trip to strengthen and broaden our relationships with both countries. We should announce new initiatives to convey in concrete terms our interest in closer ties with Greece and Turkey. We should also emphasize our willingness to work with them to promote better Greek-Turkish relations and progress on Cyprus. This will be more difficult to achieve. We will have to use the President's speeches and remarks to pound away at this theme and should prepare ideas for the President to put forward on the trip. The stop in Greece is in many ways the more important of the two. Prime Minister Mitsotakis has adopted a clear U.S. bias since taking office in April 1990. He has consistently backed us on major international issues, such as the Gulf crisis, and has not pushed the President publicly on Cyprus. Mitsotakis has been criticised by Papandreou and even some in his own party for having allowed the U.S. to tilt toward Turkey on his watch without having received anything tangible in return for Greece. In essence, Mitsotakis cannot now demonstrate that his close relationship with the U.S. has paid off for Greece. Retaining only a slim, two-vote majority in Parliament, Mitsotakis wants and needs a greater demonstration of support from the President during the visit. The President's visit to Turkey, on the other hand, will likely take on a celebratory air of the extraodinary expansion of the relationship during the past year. Total U.S. aid has never been greater and Ozal's close relationship with the President has convinced many Turks and Greeks that the U.S. has chosen to shift 2 its traditionally careful balance of Greek and Turkish interests decidely in favor of Ankara. The Turks want the President to articulate an even more expansive vision of the relationship, however, during his visit. They are pressing us for a joint statement proclaiming new strategic cooperation in the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East. They want more U.S. defense and economic aid. The challenge for the President's trip to Turkey is to convey the sense of a closer relationship while avoiding promising more than we can deliver. Ozal will also insist on joining himself to the President for the entire two days in Turkey. While the President will want to show support for him, he should also go out of his way to demonstrate an interest in and respect for Turkey itself and the interests and values that have made us partners for forty years. OBJECTIVES FOR BOTH COUNTRIES 1) Emphasize U.S. desire to improve and expand relations with both countries, especially on defense and security issues. -Public remarks should emphasize what U.S. has in common with both Turkey and Greece--NATO partnership; democratic and free market values; interest in stability for the Eastern Mediterranean. -We should avoid, however, arguing publicly the merits of 7:10. 2) Affirm U.S. willingness to help resolve Greek-Turkish differences, including Cyprus, stressing need for compromise and flexibility on major, divisive issues. -President should suggest ways to move forward on Cyprus: we should support UNSYG's attempt to convene an international conference by September. -President should also convince Ozal and Mitsotakis to agree to a bilateral meeting this summer on major differences, including a non-agression pact, agreement on avoiding altercations in Aegean; and agreement on Aegean seabed issues. -We should hold open the possibility of the President suggesting Ozal and Mitsotakis meet with him together during the trip on Crete or in Istanbul to seek progress on some of these issues. 3 OBJECTIVES FOR GREECE 1) Encourage Mitsotakis' inclinations to seek closer ties with the U.S. but demonstrate to him, the Greek political establishment and public that pro-U.S. policies pay off in concrete terms. -Visit itself will help to draw attention to long- standing ties between U.S. and Greece. We should emphasize in remarks fact that this is first Presidential visit in 30 years. -President should announce in speech to Parliament invitation for Karamanlis to make State visit in 1992. He should also reaffirm invitation for Mitsotakis to make an official working visit. -Announce initiatives in security assistance: F-16 purchases; lease of Knox frigates; COBS MOU; continued healthy $350 million in security assistance. 2) Work with the Greeks to forge compromises on key issues with Turkey--Cyprus, Aegean issues, non-aggression pact. -As noted previously, will require Presidential involvement with both leaders and possible tripartite meeting. 3) Consult closely with Greece to maintain stability in the Balkans. -Follow up June 27 bilateral discussions on Balkans by stressing U.S. -Greek consultation on this issue during visit. -We should refer to our support of Greek interests in Balkans in public statements. This will also reinforce message of benefits of close relationship with U.S. -In addition, we should propose joint U.S. -Greek technical assistance for Albania, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria to emphasize Greek expertise and our common objectives. 4) Communicate privately and publicly our rationale for a strong U.S. relationship with Turkey and need for increased aid. 4 -President should make this point in meetings with Mitsotakis, as he has done before so that Greeks understand from him necessity of continued expanded ties to Turkey. -We should be careful about framing this publicly. May be able to do best by reference to Turkey's Gulf war commitment in speech and remarks. OBJECTIVES FOR TURKEY 1) Seek agreement on continued, enhanced U.S.-Turkish security relationship produced by the Gulf conflict. -We will want to maintain greater access to Turkish facilities enjoyed during the Gulf conflict for at least as long as our redeployed forces from northern Iraq are in Turkey. -Frame enhanced U.S. access as manifestation of our desire for a strategic dialogue/understanding with Turkey on the Gulf and Middle East. -Emphasize strategic dialogue in public remarks but avoid a joint statement which could antagonize Greece. Compromise could be both Presidents mentioning strategic dialogue and common interests in their respective press statements at joint press conference. 2) Strenghten Turkish military capabilities to respond to future regional contingencies: -Make commitment to 80-plane F-16 buy. President could dramatize by visiting F-16 plant at Murted. -Reconfirm Administration commitment to greater FY-92 FMS level--assert privately and publicly that we will seek full funding ($625 FMS, $75 ESF). -Resell package of security assistance Administration produced for Turkey since start of Gulf conflict. 3) Support Turkey's desire for further economic integration with West. --Reaffirm support for EC membership and enhanced trade and investment relationship with EC in meantime. 5 -Suggest ways to expand U.S. -Turkish trade but hold off on FTA. Point to greater Turkish use of GSP privileges and personal involvement of Mosbacher and Hills as avenues for more active discussion of these issues. -Keep pushing for international community to make good on Gulf crisis economic support payments to Turkey, including Saudi oil aid. 4) Convey support for Ozal to help him domestically while being careful to not personalize the relationship excessively. President should also pay respect to importance of Turkey and its institutions to western security. -Since Ozal will be with President for entire schedule, their personal friendship and Gulf alliance will be emphasized. President will want to continue to praise Ozal's leadership and courage during Gulf conflict. -At the same time, President should stress our respect for the Turkish people, the military and other leaders to convey an interest in Turkey beyond Ozal. We can do this by meeting with opposition leaders, praising the role of the Turkish military in the Gulf conflict and paying attention to this theme in the public statements. -Visit to the Ataturk Mausoleum and historic sites in Istanbul will also help on this theme. 5) As with Greece, emphasize the importance of movement on Cyprus and Greek-Turkish issues and need for compromise and flexibility on both sides. (Smith/Grossman) July 10, 1991 91 JUL 10 P2 Draft Four TURKEY.TS PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: ARRIVAL STATEMENT ANKARA, TURKEY SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1991 Mr. President, your excellencies, my friends. Barbara and I are grateful for this gracious reception, and for the chance to be here in Turkey. // Having heard all our lives about Turkish hospitality, I can say that reports of its warmth have not been exaggerated. // Thirty-two years ago, when President Eisenhower visited Turkey, he was greeted by a roaring crowd. Thousands hailed him in the streets -- cheering not merely America but our shared values and ideals. // One sign in particular touched him. It read: "Welcome to your second home." / Today, I feel as President Eisenhower did -- that Turkey is a second home. I say that not merely because of your hospitality -- but because of the common ideals and interests we share. Turkish-American friendship reaches back as far as the late 18th century. We have forged close ties through trade and investment / military cooperation / and above all, a vision expressed by Kemal Attaturk -- that "the voice of the government must speak the words of its people.' // Recently, Mr. President, your people proved that friendship anew -- or as a Turkish proverb says, "good friends become apparent on black days." (IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR). When 2 one of your neighbors cast an "evil eye" on a smaller country, Turkey acted to to ensure that brutality in Kuwait would not stand. // First, Turkey shut down the Iraqi oil pipeline. Then, it banned cross border trade. When force became unavoidable, you permitted allied military strikes from your bases. This decision proved crucial to the success of Operation Desert Storm. / Furthermore, when you redeployed more than 100,000 troops to the Iraqi border. That move occupied more than ten Iraqi divisions and helped deter further Iraqi adventurism. // Because we were resolute against naked aggression, our Nations stand together at the dawning of a new world order. // For forty years, Turkey has been an integral part of the European community. Most recently, you have helped the Iron Curtain fall from Eastern Europe -- spurring democracy abroad just as you have worked hard to build it at home. // Increasingly, our strategic relationship has ensured self- determination for nations; for societies, pluralism; for individuals, choice. It is not only a military relationship -- but also economic and political, cultural and spiritual. // Over the next two days, Mr. President, I look forward to discussing how this relationship can further strengthen the bonds which link our Nations. // We will explore ways to help other countries do what Turkey has done: Eliminate illicit opium production. / We will also talk of human rights / regional disputes / environmental challenges / and of Turkey's economic 3 reforms -- reforms that have helped you build the basis for prosperity and take advantage of the abilities, diligence and ingenuity of the Turkish people. You have shown that you can do great things, when you have the freedom to do them. // We will focus on maintaining the strong alliance that has helped move the West from a Cold War to a warm peace. We will talk about ways in which our shared notions of democracy and free enterprise can help us make progress in Cyprus and on the Aegean Sea. / Let us build on liberty's triumphs of the past several years -- and give Turkey its due as a productive and important member of the community of free Nations. // A Turkish proverb reads, "A shared cup of coffee results in forty years of memories.' // Mr. President, our shared conversations can result in deeds and dreams that will inspire future generations. / Over the next two days, let us have no fear, as Attaturk said, "of speaking the truth." Instead, let us use the truth to attain the stable peace and greater prosperity this nation, this region, and our world deserve. // Thank you for the warmth of this reception. God bless Turkey and the United States of America. # # # # POT-- take poub (Smith/Grossman) July 10, 1991 91 JUL in Four tab TURKEY.TS PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: ARRIVAL STATEMENT ANKARA, TURKEY PM SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1991 Pre3 Ozal Yilma3 Mr. President, your excellencies, my friends. Barbara and I are grateful for this gracious reception, and for the chance to be here in Turkey. // Having heard all our lives about Turkish hospitality, I can say that reports of its warmth have not been exaggerated. / / Thirty X two years ago, when President Eisenhower visited Turkey, he was greeted by a roaring crowd. Thousands hailed him in the streets -- cheering not merely America but our shared values and ideals. 11 One sign in particular touched him. It read: "Welcome to your second home. " / Today, I feel as President Eisenhower did -- that Turkey is a second home. I say that not merely because of your hospitality -- but because of the theok No VII common ideals and interests we share. Turkish-American friendship reaches XXXXX> back as far as the late 18th century. We have forged close ties through trade and investment / military cooperation / and above all, a vision ATATORK JAG expressed by Kemal Attaturk -- that "the voice of the government MeMo must speak the words of its people." // Recently, Mr. President, your people proved that friendship anew -- or as the a Turkish proverb says, "good friends become MeMo from apparent on black days." (IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR). When Dr. Lowry, Inst of Turkish studies ato chats approp B this or etc. invosion evil Invaded 100 2 one of your neighbors cast an "evil eye" on a smaller country, Turkey acted to to ensure that brutality in Kuwait would not stand. // First, Turkey shut down the Iraqi oil pipeline. Then, it banned cross border trade. When force became unavoidable, you permitted allied military strikes from your bases. This decision proved crúcial to the success of Operation Desert Storm. / NSC draft. Furthermore, when you redeployed more than 100,000 troops to the Iraqi border. That move occupied more than ten Iraqi divisions and helped deter further Iraqi adventurism. // Because we were resolute against naked aggression, our Nations stand together at the dawning of a new world order. // NATO - 195Z For forty years, Turkey has been an integral part of the West Turkey joined (History NSC associate member of EC applying for full membership European community. Most recently, you have helped the Iron draft Curtain fall from Eastern Europe -- spurring democracy abroad just as you have worked hard to build it at home. // Increasingly, our strategic relationship has ensured self- determination for nations; for societies, pluralism; for individuals, choice. It is not only a military relationship -- but also economic and political, cultural and spiritual. // Over the next two days, Mr. President, I look forward to discussing how this relationship can further strengthen the bonds which link our Nations. // We will explore ways to help other countries do what Turkey has done: Eliminate illicit opium production. / We will also talk of human rights / regional disputes / environmental challenges / and of Turkey's economic 3 reforms -- reforms that have helped you build the basis for prosperity and take advantage of the abilities, diligence and ingenuity of the Turkish people. You have shown that you can do great things, when you have the freedom to do them. // We will focus on maintaining the strong alliance that has helped move the West from a Cold War to a warm peace. We will talk about ways in which our shared notions of democracy and free enterprise can help us make progress in Cyprus and on the Aegean Sea. / Let us build on liberty's triumphs of the past several years and give Turkey its due as a productive and important member of the community of free Nations. // Lowry MEMO A Turkish proverb reads, "A shared cup of coffee results in forty years of memories. 11 Mr. President, our shared conversations can result in deeds and dreams that will inspire future generations. / XX Over the next two days, let us have no fear, as Attaturk ATATURK said, "of speaking the truth. Instead, let us use the truth to attain the stable peace and greater prosperity this nation, this region, and our world deserve. // Thank you for the warmth of this reception. God bless Turkey and the United States of America. # # # # 91 JUL 8 A10: 24 FAX TRANSMITTAL TO: DAN JAHN. Tel: Fax: 456-6216 FROM: Institute of Turkish Studies, Inc. 1524 18th Street, N.W., #1 Washington, D.C. 20036 Tel: (202) 328-6208 Fax: (202) 328-6213 DATE: TOTAL PAGES: MESSAGE: Extended Page 1.1 MEMORANDUM TO: Ms. JENNIFER GROSSMAN; FROM: DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.; REG.: POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY TRIP; DATE: JULY 2, 1991. PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES: A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPI TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE.....") B) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST) c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GUESTS WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNER TOASTS: "A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF MEMORIES" THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A LONG TIME) D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR- TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE: "IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN): "GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS" 8 July 1991 MEMORANDUM FOR CURT SMITH FROM: JENNIFER GROSSMAN SUBJECTS: ATATURK QUOTES The following quotes are by Kemal Ataturk (lit. "father of the Turks). The highly revered, almost legendary Ataturk founded the republic of Turkey in 1923 after the collapse of the 600-year-old Ottoman Empire. POTUS quoting Ataturk would impact similarly to Ozal quoting Jefferson, or Lincoln. Let's do it. NOTE: The quotes have been translated from Ottoman Turkish. Our Library of Congress expert, Chris Murphy has encouraged us to edit them as we see fit, then check with him to make sure we've preserved the original's integrity. I've included some suggestion. 1) "Institutions founded on slavery of nations are bound to be eradicated everywhere." (1924) OR: Governments which must enslave to survive are destined to die away. 2) "The opinion of the government must represent the opinion of the nation." (1930) OR: The voice of the government must speak the words of its people. 3) "Do not fear of speaking the truth. " (1926) OR: Spit it out, for chrissakes!!!!1 JUL-11-1991 15:31 FROM LC AFR ME TO 94566218 P.01 the LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 91 JUL II P3:29 29 Date: 7/11/91 FACSIMILE COVER PAGE TO Name: Jennifer Grossman Location: Telephone FAX Equipment Number: ( ) Number: ( ) 456-6218 FROM Name: Chris Murphy Location: Library of Congress Telephone Number: ( ) 707-5421 FAX Equipment Number: ( ) IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS IN TRANSMISSION: Please Call: Chris Murphy Telephone Number: ( ) 707-5421 Messages (if any): I translated these six from Turkish if they are not helpful I can try something else however, negative most Turkish proverbs seem to be rather 1 of 2 pages LW 3/88 (rev 4/89) JUL-11-1991 15:32 FROM LC AFR ME TO 94566218 P.02 The bird with one wing cannot Fly. a companions long journey is shortened by good a single friend is equal to 1000 enemies people with wolves for neighbors don't eat well. if much you travel much you will Cearm a golden cage is still imprisonment TOTAL P.02 MEMORANDUM TO: Ms. JENNIFER GROSSMAN; FROM: DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.) REG.: POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY TRIP; DATE: JULY 2, 1991. PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES: A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPIL TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE.....") B) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST)" c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GURSTS WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNBR TOASTS: "A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF D IS there a MEMORIES! THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A LONG TIME; joke in? this D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR- TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE: "IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN): GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS" IF LOOKS COULD KILL Beauty is in the eye of the beholder -- and maybe evil is, too. At least people of many cultures think so. Belief in the "Evil Eye" is common in many parts of Latin America as well as in most Middle Eastern countries, including Turkey. Put simply, the Evil Eye is a malig- nant force emanating from the glance of a person or animal which is capable of causing disease, death, or bad luck. The glance may not be intentionally hostile, though evil persons are often known to use their power will- fully to hurt others. The origin of belief in the Evil Eye as a cause of sickness and death is not known; however, it is SO widespread a phenomenon that it is assumed to be extremely old and basic to man's belief systems. Amulets and charms of bone, teeth, and horns, most likely worn to keep away evil spirits, have been found in excavations at Catal H8yUk, an early farming site in Anatolia dating from 6000 B.C. Although all people may in theory be affected by the Evil Eye at some time or another, babies and young children, in particular, are most susceptible. They are weak and defenseless against malignant glances. In Turkey, the first forty days of a child's life are the most critical, and strong precautions are taken by the parents and relatives to protect him from the Evil Eye. After this period, the child is protected to a lesser degree. Of course, this forty-day period is most likely the time in which large numbers of infants died in the past, so the protections are certainly justified on the basis of observed experience. Protection from the Evil Eye is in the form of a "nazarlik" -- a term referring to turquoise glass beads decorated with an "eye," gold charms announcing "Mașallah" in Arabic characters, and miniature replicas of the Koran. However, the "mavi g8z böncüğü," the blue evil eye beads, are most widespread and are worn on shoulders, hung around the neck, on infant's cradles, and in houses, shops, and taxis (maşallah!). This same motif can be seen embroidered, knitted, and woven into clothes, bags, and rugs. "Mașallah" (which can be translated to mean "What wonders God has willed) is the typical response to a compliment in Turkey. Answering "Masallah" gives Allah, rather than the person, the credit for the admired quality. Compliments are not welcomed; on the contrary, they are thought to make the spirit world jealous; and they eventually respond by causing illness or misfortune. Evil Eye is a powerful force among people in the rural areas where little of the scientific causes of disease is known. If a villager suspects that he has been the victim of an evil glance, cures are often applied. The Hoca, or village religious leader, may be called in to read from the Koran and invoke the name of Allah. Molten lead is then poured into water; if a loud explosion results, it is proof that an evil glance was indeed the culprit. Belief in the Evil Eye, or some malignant force, leads many foreigners to wear protective charms such as the blue bead. It is one of the cultural phenomena to which we are introduced early in our visit. Soon it feels quite natural to add a little blue bead on a chain, one on the front door, or better yet, the rear view mirror of the car. After all; what can it hurt? 15 MEMORANDUM TO: Ms, JENNIFER GROSSMAN; FROM: DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.; REG.: POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY TRIP; DATE: JULY 2, 1991. PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES: A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPIL TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE....."J 3) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST) c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GURSTS WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNER TOASTS: "A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF 1 IS there a MEMORIES! THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A LONG TIME; joke this D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR- TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE: "IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN): GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS" Welcome to Ankara. We hope you will enjoy your time in Turkey. This information packet is designed to make your stay in Turkey as pleasant as possible. Informative suggestions for sightseeing, shopping and dining are offered in this packet, as well as general information about life in Ankara. Please feel free to stop by or call the Community Liaison Office, 126 54 70 extension 350, for any additional information you may need. Some brief cultural awareness reminders: ATATÜRK Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was founder of the modern Turkish Republic. He is a very revered figure. One should not treat his name or his image lightly or with disrespect. RELIGION Most Turks are Moslem. Although religious freedom is guaranteed, active missionary work is illegal. PHOTOGRAPHY If anyone objects, do not insist on taking their picture. It is illegal to photograph Turkish military installations, hardware or personnel. ANTIQUITIES Turkey has a strict antiquities law. It is illegal to remove an antique, natural or man-made. If you have any doubts about what constitutes an antique, ask, as the definition of antique is very broad. It is illegal to use metal detectors and gear. DRUGS Possession of drugs in Turkey is a very serious offense. The penalty for simple possession is a fine and three to five years in prison. Manufacturing, exporting or importing drugs carries a prison sentence of 30 years to life. CITIZEN BAND RADIO The operation of privately owned radio equipment for personal communication is prohibited by Turkish law. -1- 1/91 HEALTH INFORMATION DRINKING WATER Tap water in the city of Ankara is not always potable. Bottled water or soda water sold in hotels, restaurants and stores is much more reliable than tap water. Water sources within Turkey are not fluoridated, fluoride supplements may be recommended for children. RESTAURANTS Some general rules to follow while eating out in Ankara: Order only well cooked dishes. Do not eat raw salads. Avoid milk based desserts, baked dry types of pastries are a better choice. Choose your restaurant from better known reputable establishments. HOSPITALS In case of an after hours emergency the following medical facilities are located near the Embassy area. Çankaya Hospital 126 14 50 Bilir Sokak 44, Kavaklidere Güven Hospital 126 80 70 Paris Caddesi 50, Aşağı Ayranci EMERGENCY TRANSPORT Çankaya Hospital (contract ambulance) 126 14 50 (In many cases the use of the local taxi company may be quicker) Ambulance 077 I have a medical emergency. Please help me get treatment at Hospital. Acilen tibbi müdahaleye ihtiyacim var. Lütfen Hastahanesinde tedavi görmem için yardim ediniz. For the recommendation of a local doctor please call the Health Unit X 333 -2- 1/91 Number 10 March 10, 1989 ottoman ankara After the Ottomans were defeated by Tamurlane at the WILLIAM CROSS'D9 Battle of Ankara in 1401, the growth of their young. empire was disrupted for a century, and Ankara was again caught up in the ensuing fraternal struggles for power. When Tamurlane left Anatolia in 1403, Ankara fell into the hands of Beyazid's son Muhammed Chelebi, who proclaimed his rule from Amasya. In the next decade two different brothers threatened his control of the city and the governor briefly rose in revolt. In 1482, during the rivalry between Beyazid II and his brother Gem for the Ottoman sultanate, the governor of Ankara favored the latter. Beyazit captured Cem's wife and children here and punished the governor. When the lands of the Ottoman state were organized into provinces, Ankara became the capital of the great province called 'Anatolia.' When the provincial capital was moved to Kutahya, Ankara became the administrative center of a district (sancak). Sometime afterwards, the central part of Anatolia was made a separate province with Ankara as its capital. Later, this province was converted to a governorate (valilik) containing the 'sancaks' of Corum, Yozgat, Kirsehir, and Kayseri. At the beginning of the seventeenth century, Ankara was one of the major centers of the Jalali revolts. For one year (1607) Ankara was held by a certain Kalenderoglu, a native son. In subsequent times, Ankara seems to have suffered from the oppression of state officials, who often fought one another, rivalled local lords or rebelled against Istanbul. It can be seen from this why efforts were made to keep the city fortress strong as late as the 19th century, even though it was far from the frontiers. In 1832-33, Ankara was briefly occupied by the armies of Muhammad Ali Pasha, the governor of Egypt who had rebelled against Sultan Mahmud II. During the 16th and 17th centuries, Ankara appears to have been a middle-sized city which had spread around the ancient fortress and toward the plains, especially to the northwest, west and south. It tended to go beyond the area of the Roman-Byzantine city, primarily to the south. According to the census of 1522, Ankara contained more than 2,200 homes-180 being in the citadel--of which more than 2,000 were Muslim, about 120 Christian, and close to 30 were Jewish. From this the population can be estimated at between ten and twelve thousand. The same census also states that tax revenues were derived from the production and sale of alcoholic drinks, market and weighing, wine press and stamp taxes, dye works, brokerage, arable lands within the city, firewood market, vinyards, orchards, fodder, and levies on sheep and cattle. According to information provided by the Ottoman traveller Evliya Chelebi, who visited Ankara in 1648, the city was made of white stone; there were about 600 houses without gardens within the inner fortress, which had four levels, and the lower city was surrounded by a wall out of fear of the Jalalis. The lower city contained about 70 large mansions with vinyards and orchards, and more that 6,000 other substantial houses. 780 The houses were not roofed with tile but with the famous Ankara sun-dried bricks, which were proverbial for their hardness. The open and covered markets were in the upper section of the city. He also records that many of the people of Ankara were Turkmen, that there were few Greeks and that the Armenians and Jews outnumbered them. At the time, Ankara was a city that grew excellent varieties of cereals and fruit in the surrounding plains, raised many animals (sheep, goats, horses) in the nearby pastures, and had well-developed local industries which used easily obtained basic materials (leather, cloth, pastirme [pastrami/meat cured with garlic and other spices], wine, and dried fruit). 2 Furthermore, the city became identified with and famous for the Angora goat which took its name from the city. The hair of the Angora goat, called tiftik (mohair), was described with high praise as being "white as milk," "soft as silk, or "better than silk, and "shiny as diamonds." Processed and worked into yarn in the city and surrounding towns, it was spun into a cloth called sof or shali. This was the major source of livelihood for the people of Ankara. The best Ankara cloth was sent to the Ottoman court and the rest went by caravan to the markets of Istanbul and Izmir. Not only was much of it consumed within the country, there was also a substantial export trade to Egypt and Europe. Ankara cloth was known in the markets of Europe as cimatile or camlet. Evliya claims that the mohair goats which were sent to Europe by the "Franks" (i.e., Europeans), became the common goat in a short time. He adds that sof could not be made in other places even when yarn acquired from Enguru (Ankara) was used and that the Ankarans attributed this to a miracle of Haci Bayram Veli (a local saint, see below). But in Evliya's opinion, this secret resulted from the water, air and other excellent qualities of Ankara. The fame of Angora mohair continued up until the 19th century. It is reported that in 1812 about 1,000 cloth looms were still operating and 10,000 weavers were occupied with this work. According to local records, kaputluks (garment of thick heavy cloth) costing up to 1,000 kurus of the time were made in Ankara. Futhermore, the best sof was woven in the city. Shali was dyed in its dye works, and the best prayer rugs were made from its mohair. When Tournefort visited Ankara at the start of the 18th century, there were a great many French and Dutch merchants in the city. Raw mohair was being exported for up to 30 thalers per okka (2.8 pounds). During the 19th century, though, the mohair industry in Ankara declined. On the one hand, the former domestic demand for mohair cloth disappeared and, on the other, there was competition abroad from producers in Kashmir and Iran. Moreover, as a result of the great industrial revolution in Europe, the number of hand 100ms in Ankara gradually decreased. In addition, production of the local dye (cehri = rhamnus tinctoris, buckthorn), which had been fairly well developed, virtually disappeared in the face of the competition from inorganic European dyes. Soon mohair was no longer woven as before. Instead, it was primarily exported as a raw material. It was estimated that only 500,000 okkas of mohair were exported from Ankara in the middle of the 19th century. The hair from the Angora goats that the British transported to. South Africa, where they were raised in a favorable natural environment and under excellent technical supervision, gradually began to have a dominant role in the market. Later, this scheme was successfully repeated in the United States. Consequently, the price of Ankara mohair, which had exceeded one half gold lira per okka when in demand, fell to ten kurus per okka at the beginning of the twentieth century. Since then, the breed of Ankara goat. has seriously declined due to neglect. At the end of the 19th century, only one or two looms remained in Ankara and its environs (in the town of Zir, near Ayas where handspun and knitted socks and mittens are still made today). 3 because the life of the city was closely brand LJ tn: prant mohair, it is easy to understand how it it was shaken by the change :n economic conditions during the 19th century and was gradually impoverished. Travelers to Ankara around the middle of the 19th century recorded differing impressions about the city. It was described as both the poorest city in Anatolia and the largest in the region. One author explains this contradiction by saying that despite all the calamities that befell Ankara, it was one of the most populous cities in Anatolia. He says, however, that because the buildings were constructed of sun-dried brick--in spite of the availability of building stone-the houses were not very sturdy; and because they were not embellished on the exterior, Ankara had a gloomy appearance which was not found in newer cities. He attributes the city's relative posperity to its favorable location, very healthy climate, fertile soil, and especially to its vast herds of goats. The map of Ankara made by the Prussian officer von Vincke in 1839 provides a general idea of the HATIP late Ottoman city. CAY The external wall CANKIRI KAPISI surrounding the city MARABE begins at the northwestern corner cami of the inner fortress INSLi CANI HACIBATRAN PASA us from a tower KO AVGUSTES MIDIALIK REDIE TEMPLE overlooking the AK KÖPRE strum BANKISLASI ISTANSUL KAPISI KAZASKER zincials BENT DERA narrows of the Hatip CAMIL CAMI card Cay [where it is CAME KAPI c. called the Bent AKKALE ESST HASEXI camii KAPISE RUN Deresi because of the cari BRAN ISABULLAR is card KALE SOLUTAN waterworks once carve skisch cani AEDRIN CAME CAREL BARUTHAND located there]. The KAPI MAN IZMIR wis AYAM wall climbs to the KAPISI Kösxü GARAC Inle KAPI ESHAN southwestern PAZARIC ARSLAN CAMIS CAMI MAHISLYAN promotory of the CAMI . CAMIL "care KAYSERI KOYUN KURSOMLY RESELEFE KAPISI Hidirlik hill. It CAME PAZAR 7 VENICANI CENART MARAIGAH then descends to the KAPISI SAMAN PAZARI ANTER CAME HAMAM w valley again, turns MUKADDEM cari NAMAXGÃS CAMIL at the Dabaglar KAPI CAMI AYNALI SICAKSU KAM quarter and arrives KATHAGI at the Cankiri Gate. LAEKADIN KAPI MARET TÜRBESI CAMIL RARACABEY Then the wall curves CANIT to the southeast, EXIURUM KARIM incorporating, most ERTURUM importantly, the a ESPIES Istanbul Gate (near present day Ulus Square), the Izmir Plan of Ankara adapted from that published in 1854.by Major von Vincke Gate (near the Ottoman Bank), the Namazgah Gate (near the Fine Arts and Ethnographic museums), and finally, the Erzurum Gate. Turning north, the wall passes the Kayseri Gate and extends toward the southeastern corner of the inner fortress. According to tradition, shortly before this map was made (1832), the external wall was repaired by the Egyptian Ibrahim Pasha, who set up his military camp in Ankara. 4 The section of the city within the wall was not completely covered with houses. Numerous places were open areas, gardens, and mosque sites with their associated cemeteries. Outside the walls stretched more cemeteries, especially to the west. The low lands between the present train station and the city were occupied by a great marsh formed by the flooding of the Incesu. Judging from earlier descriptions of Ankara's healthy climate, this swampy area must have expanded in the 19th century when it became a notorious malarial marsh which forced a large part of the population to retire to the vinyards and orchard gardens in the surrounding hills during the summer months. At the end of the last century the city presented a rather ruinous appearance with its sun-dried brick houses in the shadow of the majestic fortress which loomed above it as a witness' to the city's former glory. Because the economic activity of the city had been reduced to virtually zero, it remained a. large but stagnant town. Indeed, it appears that these conditions did not change even when Anakara was connected to Istanbul by rail in 1892. Vacant areas in the city caused by recent fires were not even rebuilt. Toward the end of the last century, one of these fires suddenly turned several quarters to ashes, and a great fire at the end of the World War I (1917) completely swept the extensive areas at the western skirt of the fortress. The areas enclosed by the inner fortress, and on the south slope between the inner and outer fortress walls, are occupied by the oldest houses in Ankara. These quarters have narrow and crooked streets of cobbled andesite (recently paved!). It has been estimated that some of the houses in old Ankara date from the beginning of the eighteenth century, but virtually all of them have subsequently been repaired or modified to some extent. The method of constructing a typical, old Ankara house, was to erect a wooden frame and then fill the spaces with stones for the ground floor and unbaked (i.e. sun-dried) brick above which might then be plastered. The ground floor has an open courtyard, pantry, kitchen and sometimes includes a stable. The upper story rests on projecting eaves or rafters which create the chief external features of the house. Because upper stories usually extend beyond the lower floors, and the streets are not wide, the space between opposing houses is narrowed above, creating a shaded passage. An open stairway leads from the courtyard up to the living areas. There is often an intermediate floor with little rooms and small windows for winter use. On the upper floor there was an anteroom [sofa] open to the balcony facing the courtyard and supported by columns at the front. It also had windows at the back over the street, and all rooms opened to it. The walls were covered with plaster and whitewash. The wood was usually decorated with light-colored flowers painted on a dark base, and the eaved ceiling was decorated with geometrical designs. The windows contained small pieces of colored glass and were covered with wooden shutters to keep out the heat and dust in summer and protect the house from the wind in winter. 5 None of the monuments built during the Ottoman period were the work of the sultans; a few were commissioned by vizirs, court officials or governors. A great many of the mosques that were built in the early Ottoman period bear the influence, to some extent, of Seljuk architecture--a single rectangular prayer hall with columns supporting a flat roof. Examples include the Ahi Elvan Camii and Haci Ivaz Camii off the Koyun Pazar (Sheep Market) Square, Genegi Camii (0luk Sok. off Ulucanlar), Molla Buyuk Camii (Yasa-Uc Sok. to the northeast), and Ortemli Camii (below Anafartalar). Haci Bayram Veli, a local "saint" and founder of the mystic order of the Bayramiyye, built a mosque next to the Roman Temple in 1425, shortly before his death. His turbe (tomb) next to the mosque, is in typical Ottoman style: a square base topped with an octagonal transition zone, surmounted by a dome. The mosque was extensively restored in the 18th century and in 1940. (from the east) Karacabey Camil Today. (from the west) Karacabey Camil reconstruction The Karacabey (Imaret) Camii is part of a larger foundation (kulliye) which includes the tomb of the founder (Ankara's Beylerbey/governor, 1440-89) and a double Turkish bath (below and above Talat Pasa Bul., respectively). The mosque itself is a good example of an early Ottoman "T" plan which would originally have been covered by two large domes, with two side rooms and a five-domed porch as seen in the mosques in Bursa and Iznik. This was a transition to the so-called "imperial" or central-dome style Ottoman mosque that became popular in the 16th century. The Cenabi Ahmet, or Yeni, Camii (east on Ulucanlar Cad.), built by another of Ankara's beylerbeys in 1565, is a good example of this latter style and was done either by the famous architect Sinan or one of his students. Cenabi Ahmet Pașa Camil 0 0 0 6 museum N Bedecken + entrance south today N Mahmut Pasa Hans plant Mahmutpasa Bedesteni plans; Ankara's past prosperity is well documented in her Ottoman commercial structures. Near the citadel, the Kursunlu (leaded) or Mahmut Pasha Han (1421) and Bedesten (1421-59), built by the Grand Vizir (Sadrazam) of Sultan Mehmet, conqueror of Istanbul, now houses the offices and exhibition hall of the Museum of. Anatolian Civilizations. The han, a merchant's hostelry and storehouse from which caravans arrived and departed, has two arcaded stories around a courtyard, a basement storage below, and is of mixed stone and brick typical of early Ottoman construction. It served as one of the main wholesale markets of the town. Next to it was built a grand Bedesten, the cloth (bez) bazaar, its central hall covered with two rows of imposing brick domes, and in its outer hall a series of shops. Here the trading in fine mohair cloth, silks, and linen was carried on. The main door led off the west side into the Uzun Carsi (Long Market), now Saraclar (Saddlers) and Cikrikcilar (Spinners) Streets, starting between Koyun and Saman Pazar (Hay Market, where the new town hall is presently under construction), and running down towards the Izmir and Istanbul Gates. Facing At (Horse) Pazar, opposite the Hisar Gate, are two more old hans, the Cengel Han (1552), and the Cukur Han (16th-17th centuries) which are in rather ruinous condition but are still serving merchants in hides and leather goods. The former is built of stone and brick and has its original old wooden door. The latter is of mud brick with columns rather than arches forming the arcades around the courtyard. At the bottom of what was once the Uzun Carsi is the Sulu Han (c. 1685, below Arnafartalar Cad. on Kalinaz Sok.) which is built all of stone with rows of pointed chimneys. along the roof line. It has recently been fully restored and houses modern shops. In the Islamic world, a town must have a mosque, and market, and a bath. Many Turkish baths built under the Ottomans were grand facilities harking back to their ancestors, the Roman baths. There are several old baths surviving from Ottoman times in Ankara, but only the Sengul (Merry Rose) (also called the Merkez (Central) Hamam), dating from the 16th century is still functioning. It is "double," with separate sections for men and women, each having changing areas covered with a wooden lantern roof, and domed bath halls lined with marble. Baths played an important role in the social fabric of society, providing a meeting place where the men or women would congregate and converse, sorting out their lives and arranging matters of importance. Adapted, with additions, by PTL from "A Brief History of Ankara" by Besim Darkot as translated by Dr. Gary Leiser from an article in the Islam Ansiklopedisi, 1940. Graphics and additional information from Ankara 50, 1973; and Turkeye'de Vakif Abideler ve Eski Eserler, Ankara, 1983. 7 STROLLING THROUGH COPPER ALLEY Upon entering from Koyun Pazari, the visitor to Copper Alley (Salman Sokak) is welcomed by the clanging of hammers on metal and the hustle and bustle of a busy shopping street. In an atmosphere which suggests another time, exotic sights, sounds and aromas demand the visitor's attention. This winding alley invites exploration and is lined with shop after shop whose windows are filled with the rich gleam and warm hues of copper. Whether you are looking for old or new, functional or decorative (or just looking), Copper Alley's merchants will find, make, polish, repair, and bargain until all your needs are met --- and then some! At Pasart Listed numerically on the map are shops which Pat and I have visited. We have tried to mention each shop's "specialty" and have included some Sokah Spice. Hardware, Odds Ends Shops biographical information on some of the shopkeepers. 1. Eski Ankara - The owner is Mithat who has been in this loca- tion for ten years and who speaks SPECIMENTS excellent English. (He is the nephew of Elsan on Farabi Sokak.) 123R SCORRE At Pasart He has a large selection of new copper 11/22 and brass, gift items, and traditional Turkish jewelry, as well as an / interesting collection of older And USAII Shops pieces of copper. He can custom- make almost anything in copper with F only a picture or sketch for a guide- THERE and can have your old copper re- tinned. (There is a rustic bathroom available in the shop on request.) Ulucenlar Cod. 2. Gliven Bakir - At this tiny shop copperwork is bought and sold. There is a small selection of mostly old copper. The owner, Abdullah Gilven, speaks no English. Telatpasa Bulvari Talatpage Bulvari 3. Erzurumlu Bakir ve Kalaycisi - Ahmet (affectionately called "The Pirate" because of his looks, not his business practices) and his brother Omer Karamanmaras are owners and both speak English. As you enter the shop on the first floor there are new copper and wooden items, and in a corner case the old jewelry is kept. For a real adventure, though, climb the rickety stairway to the upstair's loft. It has a tree house atmosphere, and here you will find the real treasures of the shop - old copper from Turkey and Iran, odd antiques and kilims and rugs. It is all a bit musty and dusty, but great fun, nonetheless. 13. Yilmaz Antique Shop - Old jewelry, 18. Erciyes Antique Shop - This shop embroideries, watches, and coins are is filled with an array of intruiging squeezed into this little shop. (No items. As well as copper, there are English) old costumes, inlaid wooden tables and mirror frames, antique jewelry, Russian 14. Duraklar Antique Shop - Beautiful boxes, carpets and kilims. The owner wooden spinning wheels and cradles speaks a bit of English. are available here as well as some old coins, jewelry, and silver pieces. 19. Muamer Erciyes (cousin to #18) - This shop is full of curiosities -- old 15. Kirimoglu - El Sanat Galeri - copper (some of which is Persian), The owners, Mustafa and Avni Kirimoglu, kilims and rugs, old jewelry and watches have a medium-sized collection of antique furniture, and a large collec- tourist/souvenir gifts including tion of old coins. (The owner helped new brass and copper items, picture me choose a coin for a very young coin- frames, flower pots, trays, and collecting friend, steering me away skewers. (No English) from the more expensive older varieties and towards the less expensive newer 16. Kemal Kopal - Old copper and coins. We settled on a large, somewhat glass articles, jewelry and inlaid guady Ottoman coin for 1000 T.L. My wood overrun this small shop, but it friend loved it and I appreciated the it always interesting to visit. good advice and honesty of the owner.) 17. Berek Kapadokya Antique Shop - 20. Gurses Ticaret - This is a large The owner of this shop, Hasan, is shop which deals primarily in plastic originally from Nevsehir and came to Ankara six years ago. My first intro- goods, however, in a small corner nook, the owner keeps a very small duction to the man occured in front collection of old copper pieces and of his shop when he stopped me saying, jewelry. This is also a great place "Hello, Lady. My name Hasan. You to buy plastic water jugs. The owner come see my shop." Who could turn down will put in a spout for you as you such an invitation? His shop is tiny, wait. but he has some beautiful old pieces to offer. 15 AMERICAN EMBASSY ANKARA, TURKEY TURKISH GOVERNMENT LAWS AND REGULATIONS ON THE PROTECTION OF ANTIQUITIES In July 1983, the Government of Turkey passed a new antiquities law which makes the unauthorized collection, purchase, or export of antiquities illegal and imposesstiff penalties for violation. The law should be understood by all serious collectors of antiquities, especially by those who plan to export these antiquities when they leave Turkey. Further information concerning the law is available in the Consular Section of the American Em- bassy or Consulate. The guidance provided below may prove helpful, however. RESIST THE TEMPTATION For the souven ir collector or weekend archaeologist traveling around Turkey, the opportunities -and the temptations- for acquiring antiquities are sometimes ir- resistable. While many sites have no signs cautioning the unwary, official silence does not mean official consent. Under Turkish law, all historic sties (such as fortresses, castles, ruins) and everything in them or found on the grounds or in the water around them are the property of the Turkish Government. Antiquities may not be purchased, collected, or exported from Turkey without the authorization of the Turkish Government. Turkish law, moreover, defines antiquities very broadly. A safe rule of thumb is: Do not pick up anything which might possibly be defined as an antiquity, such as statues, figurines, art objects, artifacts, coins and most other items of historical, cultural, religious, literary or scientific value. The Government controls all excavation work in Turkey. Uncertified diggers and illicit collectors or ex- porters of antiquities face both a fine of from TL 100,000 to 300,000 and imprisonment of five to ten years. Even casual digging, if unauthorized, may be considered a violotion of the law. Some of the items specifically listed as antiquities are old weapons of all sorts, pottery, jewelry, tiles and carpets. There is, moreover, no firm guideline on how "new" an item must be not to be considered an antique. A piece of late Ottoman jewelry, a pistol from the Independence War, or a middle aged rug may or may not be so considered. ANTIQUITIES MAY BE PURCHASED, BUT One may legally buy certain antiquities, but only from authorized dealers who have been issued a certificate by a museum for each item which they are authorized to sell. This certificate is to be given to the purchaser at the time of the sale. Purchase of antiquities for which the dealer does not have such a certificate is inadvisable. One should also obtain a receipt for each purchase. Children lurking behind marble columns at Ephesus and other ancient sites do not, needless to say, fall into the "authorized dealer" category. If one has acquired a possible antiquity without having obtained the necessary certificate, it should be evaluated by competent museum personnel before its removal from Turkey is attempted. POSSIBLE CONSEQUENCES The Turkish Government takes its law on antiquities seriously and will prosecute offenders. American citizens who are arrested or detained for alleged violation should contact the American Embassy in Ankara or the Consulate in Istanbul, Izmir, or Adana. The Embassy or Consulate cannot, however, prevent the Turkish Govern- ment from prosecuting the case, arrange the release of the accused, or act as his attorney. SPART OF BG DIG ADMINISTRATIVE MEMORANDUM AMERICAN EMBASSY, ANKARA No. 91/057 March 28, 1991 TO : All Members of the American Community FROM : Counselor for Administrative Affairs wer SUBJECT : Travel Advisory - - Turkey The following travel advisory has been issued by the Department of State and is repeated below: Begin Text. The travel advisory of January 21, 1991, urged American citizens to defer non-essential travel to southeastern Turkey. Any American citizens opting to travel there or elsewhere in 00 Turkey should be aware that there have been terrorist acts directed against Americans. These attacks target persons and property of organizations with official and commercial ties to the United States. Although Turkish authorities are actively working to prevent terrorism, the Department of State warns American citizens to exercise caution in Turkey. In addition, United States citizens are advised to continue to defer all non-essential travel to southeastern Turkey. Sporadic attacks by separatists continue to occur against Turkish police and civilians in several southeastern provinces of Turkey. Travelers to this region are advised to cooperate with travel restrictions or other security measures imposed by Turkish authorities. Travelers are further cautioned not to travel off main highways in remote rural areas or generally to drive at night. U.S. citizens contemplating travel to Turkey should check upon arrival with the U.S. Embassy in Ankara or the U.S. Consulates in Istanbul, Izmir and Adana to learn whether there are special travel restrictions in particular provinces. Finally, travelers are reminded that unauthorized purchase or removal from Turkey of antiques or other important cultural artifacts is strictly forbidden. Violation of this law may result in imprisonment. Travelers who wish to purchase such items should always insist that the seller provide a receipt and the official museum export certificate required by law. This travel advisory upgrades the January 21, 1991, travel advisory from caution to warning and advises travelers to exercise caution in Turkey because of terrorist activity. Expiration: Indefinite End Text. For more information about Ankara the CLO has short articles on: The Mosques of Ankara, including the Kocatepe Mosque in the new city Roman and Ottoman Ankara Wandering through the traditional shopping areas in the old city and Kizilay Archaeological and historical sites in the vicinity of Ankara Atatürk's Farm Atatürk's Mausoleum Ankara's museums HACI BAYRAM CAMIS TEMPLE OF ROME of AUGUSTUS CITADEL VIEW ZiNCiRLi CAMII HISARPARKI CADDESI ALAEDDIN CAMIL FARMER'S MARKET "VIEW" OLD ALTER 0700 "NEW" OLD HOUSE ANKARA MUSEUM OF ATATÜRK BULVARI ANATOLIAN AT CIVILIZATIONS YOKUSU PAZARI ALLEY LOTOR ASLAN CAMII ARD ALLEN AHI ELVAN CAMII PICTURE CAD. SOK. PAZAR ULUSANLAR YEN CAMii SAMAN PAZARI KOTH TALATPAÇA BULVARI HACETTEPE UNIVERSITY KARACABEY CAMII EMBASSY POLITICAL SECTION PRESS SUMMARY FOR JUNE 7, 1991 CYPRUS Citing leaked information, Nur Batur of "Milliyet" writes that President Ozal told French President Mitterrand during their meeting that Turkey and the Turkish Cypriot side are ready to start negotiations to solve the Cyprus problem. Ozal reportedly told Mitterrand that Vassiliou and Mitsotakis are holding back from negotiations. Mitterrand reportedly made no comments on the Cyprus issue. "Milliyet" reports Greek PM Mitsotakis, departing for Greek Cyprus, said the Cyrpus issue has entered a critical phase and no one can guess what will result from international activity on the issue. U.S. "Cumhuriyet" reports the trade delegation headed by U.S. Secretary of Commerce Robert Mosbacher started its contacts in Turkey. The visiting Seceratry and his delegation met with State Minister Kamran Inan. The paper says Mosbacher and State Minister Gunes Taner signed a "Master Grant Agreement." "Gunes" quotes Taner as saying that the agreement will improve bilateral trade and create opportunities to sign a free trade agreement with the U.S. "Gunaydin" reports U.S. Assistant Defense Secretary Paul Wolfowitz praised Turkey as a model for all Middle East countries. At the same press conference, Wolfowitz noted that Turkey has strategic importance and has proven that a Muslim country can live with democracy and western institutions. In an article published by the "Washington Post, U.S. strategy expert Brzezinski said the leader of the Russian Federation, Boris Yeltsin, is following the same method used by Ataturk. Brzezinski noted there is an astonishing similarity between Yeltsin's histoircal perspective on Russia and Ataturk's approach to a modern Turkey. IRAQ "Hurriyet" reports Iraqi Kurds have stopped 56 Turkish trucks carrying food stuffs on the Zakho-Duhok highway. Member of the Kurdish Democratic Party Fadil Madni said they allowed a one-time passage to the Turkish trucks, but from now on Turkish officials should contact Kurdish leaders when they are sending food to Iraq. -2- USSR All papers report Soviet President Gorbachev, in a press conference in Oslo, said the western press is implementing a double standard against Soviet Union and urged it to deal with problems faced by Turkish and Yugoslavian workers in Europe. The Soviet intelligence organization KGB announced that Armenian terror organization ASALA, which had assassinated Turkish diplomats, is still functioning and is illegally transferring arms to Soviet Armenia. DOMESTIC AFFAIRS ANAP chairmanship candidate Mesut Yilmaz said he will not withdraw his candidacy. He noted that President Ozal's proposal to split the ANAP chair and the Prime Ministry between two people can only be possible if he withdraws. He said Ozal's taking part in the rivalry in ANAP will create unrest in the party. Yilmaz is expected to meet with Ozal today. On the other hand, "Sabah" writes that Ozal sent Yilmaz a message through a minister offering his support to Yilmaz in the ANAP general convention and pledging Yilmaz will be both Prime Minister and ANAP Chairman. Papers say PM Akbulut told provincial chairmen and delegates he hosted at a luncheon that the Chairman of the party should be honest and of a character to enhance unity and respect within the party. Akbulut noted that he embodies all these characteristics. Parliament approved a bill authorizing the government to make decrees having the force of law in order to make changes in laws that set guidelines for public employees' financial and benefit structures, in laws establishing new ministries, in laws for the Social Security Institution and State Employment Office. State Minsiter Mehmet Kececiler said the authorization is given to the government only for a ten-month period. All papers write that relatives of prisoners who are on a hunger strike to protest the anti-terror law wanted to meet with Parliament Human Rights Committee Chairman Eyup Asik. Police tried to prevent the protestors from entering the parliament complex. Two deputies from the People's Labor Party, Mahmut Alinak and Adnan Ekmen, were harassed by the police and 100 people were detained. "Gunes" reports DYP leader Demirel said Turkey's goal is to establish a real democracy which will not be interfered with by military coups. Demirel also criticized ANAP rule by saying the government lacks popular support. "Hurriyet" reports SHP will hold its Third Regular General Convention July 27-28. "Milliyet" quotes Aydin Menderes, son of the late PM Adnan Menderes, as saying President Ozal told him when they met that if he joins ANAP now, the party might elect him Chairman. Menderes declined Ozal's offer. Strolling Through Sakarya angles ankara 14 Buyuk Carsi (gold and jewelry) 1. TARHAN KITABEVI (moved) Tuna Cade 2. Basketseller 3. Fishmonger 6 4. Kebab Stands 5. Flowers 6. ABC Bookstore Z 3 Selanik 4 sok. 11 10 Inkilap Sok. 12 12 19 13 19 Sokak Mithatpasa PT Caddesi 7. Butcher/cheese/deli 8 9 8. Yarn store 7 9. PAPAGAN's Nuts, etc. 10. Keys/Anahtarci SAKARYA PROMENADE 14 15 20 11. SAFRAN Spice Shop 21 5 12. Bookbinders & Printers ATATURK BULVARI 17 13. Sporting Goods 22 16 14. Paper & Art/Kirtasiye 4 18 3 24 15. Mussels/Midiye 1 16. WASHINGTON 2 21 ZIYA GOKALP CADDEST 17. KÖRFEZ 18. French Culture Center. 19. Outdoor cafes Kizilay 20. Baklavacı Circle 21. LOKMAN HEDKIM's Goodies: GIMA 23. TURK EL SANATLARI to Cankaya 23 22. Kutahya fine ceramics PTT. 24. HAŞET Bookstore The Sakarya shopping promenade is a feast for all the senses, giving both the long-time resident of Ankara and the newcomer an adventure in the sights, sounds and heady aromas of the city. Recent renovations and the addition of flower stalls and fountains have rendered Sakarya one of the most charming shopping and strolling malls in town--a delightful place to visit, browse and purchase goods for the home. One can shop for most anything here, from the freshest of breads, chéeses, meats, fish and produce to nuts, herbs and spices, books and baskets. The following highlights of a recent walking and munching tour of Sakarya are offered to tantalize the reader with a glimpse of the delights that are within this four-block section of Kizilay. You can enter Sakarya from Ataturk Boulevard, one block below the Kizilay circle (GIMA/Ziya Gokalp) where a group of small kiosks herald the pedes- trian mall. One of the first stops on the right is TARHAN KITABEVI, a very well-stocked bookstore. You will find great guides and splendid photographic books on Turkey, including Sami Güner's magnificent volume which currently sells for about $50, There are many books to choose from in English from politics and society to cookbooks, carpet books, and the lilting fiction of Yashar Kemal. In addition to books in Turkish, English, French and German, its stock comprises puzzles, games, and items for children plus a fine selection of notecards, postcards, and slides of Turkey. Izzet Tarhan, who speaks excellent English, opens his shop from 8:30 to 12:30 and 14:30 to 19:30 Monday through Saturday. Continuing down the Sakarya promenade you come upon the fishmongers who offer Ankara's best of the catch. On the right are DALYAN BALIKCISI and UNLU ISTANBUL while across the street is KARADENÍZ BALIKCISI. The fish is trucked in overnight and quite fresh "palamut" (bomito, horse mackrel), "lüfer" (sea perch, blue fish), "istavrit" (mackrel, scad), and "torik" (large bonito) in stock. Next, the smell of fish is replaced by the tantalizing aroma of kebab grilling on the skewer for döner sandwiches at the two corner stands. These always draw a crowd at lunch time--I'm tempted anytime and love to sit and enjoy viewing the flower stalls and the passerbys. If you are still in the market for books, you can make a detour down Selanik Sok. to the ABC bookshop which also has plenty of English items. In the mid section of Sakarya are a number of nut shops (kuru yemiş-- desiccated delicacies) and spice shops (baharatci). On the left (north) side in the second block PAPGAN'S nut shop displays hindistan cevizi (coconut), ceviz (walnuts) of with other nuts and goodies inside: çam fistigi (pine nuts), kuru erik (prunes), susam (sesame seeds), yellow raisons and a köfte spice mix. Here you can also get fresh coffee beans and have them ground (take a whiff--umm). Around the corner to the left an excellent tiny spice shop SAFRAN BAHARAT usually maintains a good stock of specialties: tarçin (cinnamon)--bôth sticks and ground, kimyon (cumin), koryondor kisnis (coriander), karanfil (cloves), anison (anise), defne yaprak (bay leaves), yeni bahar (all spice) and three strengths of kırmızı biber (paprika to red hot pepper). Besides the usual dried fruits and nuts there is also rices, bulgars, lentils, canary seed, rose water, and for conditioning and auburn touch-ups, kina (henna) is kept by the sackful. You will probably enjoy just exploring all the many small shops in this area-from bookbinders and art suppliers to yarn shops and sporting goods (see map). All this browsing is likely to work up your appetite and there are plenty of culinary delights available for instant or lingering gratification. On the corner of Bayindir Sokak at KOKOREÇ MIDIYESI they serve deep-fried mussels--50TL a wooden skewer-the smell is irresistable. If you need more substantial fare, Bayindir Sokak resembles "restaurant row." The WASHINGTON (once Kristal) is one of the best international lunch spots, the KÖRFEZ next door is perhaps the best for truly delicious Turkish food with an unspoiled local atmosphere at very reasonable prices, and in the opposite direction are numerous outdoor cafes that provide a good lunch and a chance to people-watch. Now, if you feel like dessert, going back along the south side of Sakarya you 11 find a sweet shop selling all kinds of baklava (50 TL/piece), and then another wonderful combination nut and spice shop, LOKMAN HEKIM, which has a fascinating display of myriad, colorful, exotic nibblies and additives, all with intriguing labels. And here, as well as down by TARHAN's, you can get icecream cones (dondurma). The sherbert-like "limon" is my favorite on a hot day. In the next block is a new, fine housewares store with lovely Kutahya pieces. Venturing on around up Selanik Sokak, just before the pedestrian bridge, take a peek into LOKMAN HEKIM's BAHARAT SIFALI for strange spices and herbal cures, a folk medicine and healthfood store with all the ingredients for a witch's brew. They also have luffa ("lif") for a good scrub. If you haven't completely exhausted your energy, you can leave the Sakarya area by crossing Ziya Gokalp Caddesi over the pedestrian bridge and take a right to arrive at Karanfil Sok. which is now a pedestrian mall behind GIMA. Up the stairs on the left at No. 5/53 in a second floor window you will see the sign for a great little handicrafts shop - "Turk El Sanatlar." We'll have to stop here, but one can go on and on Based on the ANKARA SCENE X #42, 1983 with added field work PRE-ADVANCE ROOM ASSIGNMENTS ANKARA HILTON HOTEL NAME ROOM ASSIGNMENT Sig Rogich 1613 Jay Parmer 1614 Spencer Geissinger 1617 Kristin Goodwin 1603 William Sittmann 1618 Jeannie Bull 1620 Mark Stafford 1606 Ron Mazer 1615 Andrea Richhart 1616 Rich Miller 1604 Bill Morlock 1605 Ronald Luzania 1619 Bill Lord 1607 James Straight 1608 Brad Fugitt 1609 CDR Jake Ross 1610 Dr. Lawrence Mohr 1505 Lt. Anthony Mauro 1507 Maj. Steven Riewerts 1508 Maj. Jay Farmer 1509 Robert Weiderman 1510 -2- Peggy Dooley 1516 John Dreylinger 1517. Susan Biddle 1518 Ellis Kitchen 1519 Mark Kramer 1403 Wendy Walker 1404 Ron Hacker 1413 Tony Brunton 1414 Ingrid Arnesen 1415 Wally McNamee 1419 Tom Raum 1405 Dean J. Haas 1318 Paul Bruin 1409 HILTON HOTEL -168-28-88 EMBASSY CONTROL ROOM - ROOM 1621 EMBASSY EXTENSION - 492 PTT LINES 167-09-34 167-07-88 PRESIDENTIAL PRE-ADVANCE 7 JUNE - 9 JUNE, 1991 KEY MISSION PERSONNEL TELEPHONE LIST AMBASSADOR MORTON ABRAMOWITZ EXT 200 126 54 70 DCM MARC GROSSMAN EXT 202 126 02 29 POL COUNSELOR MIKE AUSTRIAN EXT 212 138 03 15 POL/MIL COUNSLEOR REGINA ELTZ EXT 235 146 49 82 PUBLIC AFFAIRS COUNSELOR LARRY TAYLOR EXT 423 136 64 00 SCIENCE COUNSELOR ARNIE LONG EXT 226 140 68 55 ADMINISTRATIVE COUNSELOR BILL KELLY EXT 351 138 42 30 SPECIAL ASST FOR VISIT DEAN HAAS EXT 352 HILTON HOTEL ECON COUNSELOR CHARLIE JACOBINI EXT 252 138 18 72 CONSULAR AFFAIRS BOB SORENSON EXT 320 146 49 81 DAO COL. JERRY KAFFKA EXT 300 138 98 51 RSO GERRY KILGORE EXT 354 138 12 94 JUSMMAT GEN. WILLIAM FARMEN EXT.2101 125 99 43 JUSMMAT OPS COL. AL MAC DONALD EXT 4215 TUSLOG GEN. RALPH ROHATSCH EXT 3198 125 99 43 TUSLOG EXEC COL. RODNEY KONTNY EXT 2133 125 99 43 GSO MIKE MILLIGAN EXT 484 137 79 56 MILDRED PATTERSON EXT 488 126 02 29 COMMUNICATIONS RON CHARLES EXT 270 167 72 753 BUDGET & MANAGEMENT SID KAPLAN EXT 360 138 14 06 SYSTEMS MANAGER PETER JENSEN EXT 374 139 41 35 -2- PERSONNEL BILL BUTLER EXT 262 127 19 59 CLO ALMA KAPLAN EXT 351 138 14 06 HEALTH UNIT NURSE JO LIEBIG EXT 277 190 09 78 EMBASSY SWITCHBOARD 126 54 70 -- 75 EMBASSY FAX MACHINES: CHANCERY 167 00 19 ANNEX ONE 167 00 57 USIS 128 31 35 MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS AFTER HOURS OPERATOR 287 25 55 - 85 MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS DUTY OFFICER 287 18 85 (NOTE: CAN BE USED TO CONTACT MFA 24 HOURS) ANKARA SHOPPING TIPS Compiled by the CLO ¡SIGH I SAID SIGHE! WHAT'S I'M BORED! WANT TO PLAY NO! WRONG ? CARDS ? HOW ABOUT WANT TO REARRANGE A GAME OF THE FURNITURE ? No! CHECKERS ? NO! WELL THEN, WHAT DO YOU WANT TO DO ?! GO SHOPPING 2-4 © 1990 by King Features Syndicate inc World nghts reserved BROWNE The following information has been prepared to assist you with your shopping and finding your way around town. We hope you enjoy your stay in Turkey. Ask for other CLO handouts regarding parks, picnics, travel, Ottoman Ankara, The Eyes Have It, Exploring Old Ankara, Copper Alley, Sakarya Plaza and more. Contact us at 126-5470 extention 350 if you need assistance. It is our pleasure to serve you! KIZILAY CLO recommends the following gold shops but urges you to make inquiries from friends and co-workers about other reliable merchants. Be careful when using a merchant who is not referred. For those of us who are reluctant to rely on our Turkish language skills, the following two merchants generally receive the "expatriate" trade. ZEKI CANDAN's Jewelry shop is located in Büyük Çarşi 67/18 Atatürk Bul. Custom orders as well as traditional items are available. Cartouçe and Arabic necklaces are popular requests. HOCA YÜKSEL's Jewelry shop (105/12 Atatürk Bul.) is another favorite shop. Custom orders are his specialty. The owner, Hamit Dagcinar, speaks English. CAN Soysal Pasaji Asma Kat No. 122, Atatürk Bul. Can jewelry shop comes recommended highly by one embassy employee. At Can you will need all your Turkish language skills since he doesn't speak English. Visit other shops SO you can compare prices and quality. Continuing on towards the Embassy on the far side of the street is the VAKKO Department store. Vakko is considered expensive by most standards, but a stroll through the store is free and worth your time. Silk scarfs are an affordable, quality item at Vakko. SAKARYA PLAZA Near the Embassy and a pleasant break spot at lunchtime. Körfez and Washington Restaurants are located here, as well as, Turkish style fast food, i.e. Gözleme and Doner Kebab, featured in outdoor stalls. You can shop for your dinner at the outdoor markets stocked with fresh vegetables, fish and flowers. The Kütayha Showroom is located on the main promenade and beneath this are the famous butcher shops, well worth a peek. Prices are fair. Also, the nut and spice shops are excellent. (Ask CLO for the reproduced Ankara Scene Article on this area). "Big Mac Attack" Mc Donald's is only a block away on Atatürk Bul. "Sweet Attack" Divan Pastanesi, on Atatürk Bulvari No. 58. Nicely packaged gifts of candy and sweets found here, ask for Sulten Acar for assistance. Other shops include Mudo, Beyman, Vepa and many more. Walking along Atatürk (across the street from McDonald's) you'll come to Chez Güray 84/9-downstairs, Avanos pottery is offered here. On the same side of the street there is a large Paşabaçe showroom where it is nearly impossible not to find the right gift. Very near here at the first walkover is a shop called the LAPIS LAZULI, Engürü Pasaji, Alt. Kat No. 107 7/15. This jewelry shop is a favorite of many. SH-5/91 -1- TURKISH MINISTRY OF TOURISM HANDICRAFT SHOPS There are two handicraft stores in the Ankara area. Both are located in Kizilay. One on Mesrutiyet Caddesi (1/2 way up on the left side from Atatürk Bulvari, the second store is located on Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvari, next to the Ministry headquarters. Excellent shops for gifts at a fair price. IZMIR CADDESI AREA TOWELS * BATHROBES * SPORTING GOOD SUPPLIES * FURS * LEATHER * "SECONDS" From Kizilay on Atatürk Bulvari go to the area of Izmir Cad. Here you will find Bargain Basement (Onur Çarsi), on the next street parallel to Izmir, it is called Meneşke Sok. and most taxi drivers know the area. The bottom floor of this building has three or four recommended shops, Ankara Tekstil, Pinar Çeyiz, Selim Çeyiz, for towels, Başak Spor, Irmaklar Spor for Sporting goods. Irregular merchandise is available throughout and sometimes one can get very lucky in finding a real buy. LOOK carefully! At the end of Meneşke Sok. there is a second Çarsi called Moda Çarsi. Here you can find towel, linen and clothing shops. Throughout this general area you will find sporting good stores, fabric shops and tailors. Prices are less than other spots in town. Take time to wander around and see what shops you may find. Visit Çarsi on Atatürk Bul. "seconds" from Benetton and Beyman can occasionally be found. FURS AND LEATHER SHOPS Fur and leather shops are plentiful in the Kizilay and Izmir Cad. areas. Men and women's Shearling jackets are found at most leather shops. ASKÜRK DERI, Menekse Pasaji, and ASRIN KURK DERI, Izmir Cad. Ihiamur Sok. 7/4 (near Mersa) is one of the more popular fur and leather shops in the area, but look around there are many others. TAILORS Ali Güleç Ulus Ishani C Blok Kat 2 No. 220 311-59 54 / Ev. 126-42 42 Men's tailoring. Will come to your home or office for fittings. Uç Kardeşler, Ali Ugun, Izmir Cad. No. 7/5 (Yenisehir)/Ladies tailoring. Kadin Terzisi, (Lady's Tailor) Ihsan and Mustafa, Izmir Cad. No 9/9 (Yenişehir). - my personal favorite. Çağin (tailor), Leather suits, skirts etc. Atatürk Bul. 69/Işhani Kat.5 No.203 Kizilay, and Tunalii Hilmi Cad. No. 89/22 (showroom) Mina - Erol Egri, Karanfil Sok. Uslu Han No 16/60 Kizilay. Blouses. FABRIC AND NOTION Mersa - large selection of fabric at a reasonable cost. Izmir Cad. 23/A. Ipek Kumaş - large selection of silk and satins, reasonable, Izmir Cad. Dior - large selection of moderate to expensive fabrics, Ataturk Bul. Sik Bayanlarin - Notions, wool, buttons, lace, etc. 37/C Izmir Cad. Batica - Silk and silk scarves, Izmir Cad. Moda Çarşisi Güzel Giyim - fabric in Moda Çarşisi Akyuz Kardeşler - silk fabric in Moda Carşisi -2- SH-5/91 TUNALI HILMI A delightful street for window shopping. Take your time and have lunch. Plan on a lunch at Pizza Pino about half-way up the hill or Marilyn Monroe's Pizza at No. 75. It is possible to do all your last minute errands and shopping on this street alone. Tunali Hilmi Cad. covers all your shopping needs. Items range from semi-precious gem-stones and minerals shops to handmade sweaters with leather or kilim patches, leather clothing, boots, bags, purses and some of the best silver shops. Visit Yetkin for "LEO'S JOKE STORE" and the Tunali Çarsi. CLOTHING & SILVER The first shops on Tunali are small boutiques for men and women. Begin at First and walk from Swan Park to the top of the hill. Pasaji or (Mini-Malls) are abundant. The first is Kugulu (or Swan) Pasaji at No. 18. Here you will find leather, sweater, silver and gold shops. Antik Tugaa (no. 88/14 Tunali Cad. and in Kugulu Psj. 18/58), Yürsel Silver House (no. 123) are two of the more notable silver shops in this Pasaji. GEMS AND MINERALS Towards the top of the hill and across the street, is a large black marble building, No. 88 Tunali Hilmi Cad which houses some exceptional shops. The Mineral Shop located at No. 47 feature uncut gemstones, minerals and fossils. Anadoludan No. 88/79, is an interesting shop dealing in ethnographic material and assorted 'old and new' artifacts. LEATHER AND SUEDE Leather and Suede shops are concentrated within a small section on Tunali. Suggested stores include: Model Leather and Suede Shop at No. 82. Ugur Deri Leather Shop at No. 106, Çagin Deri Süet (Leather Shop) at 89/22 and Akay Deri Süet located at 82/8-9 Tunali Hilmi Cad. Custom orders are available. SWEATERS Sweaters can be found on the bottom level of Kugulu Pasaji. For hand-made sweaters stop at 98/48 Demirdögen Pasaji (Aloha) and see Mrs. Sevinç Uluser to place your order. SHOE REPAIR Near the top of the hill is "Salmander" No. 77/A, a shoe repair service. IMPORT/EXPORT SHOPS Visit Gümuşsoy Çarsi, 79 Tunali Cad. Most stores here are import/export shops which carry seconds and irregulars. Examine your merchandise carefully. Here you can find a bargain in childrens' and womens' clothing. Labels include J.G. Hook and Jos. A. Bank. FLOWER AND BASKET SHOP Kelebek Flower and Basket Shop is a new store located at 63 Tunali Hilmi Cad. A delivery service is featured in the advertizements. -3- SH-5/91 G.O.P. Han Carpet Co. Ltd. located at No. 87 Nene Hatun Cad. features a collection of carpets, kilims, kilim bags, purses, back packs, desk top calendars and many more handmade kilim and leather products. This shop is a MUST. MEERSCHAUM The Sultan Pipe Shop is located at 43/B Resit Galip Cad. Signed collector pieces are available. Special orders are possible, give plenty of time. Restaurant in the G.O.P. area are plentiful. Some suggestions: Mona Lisa, on Reşit Galip near Sultan's, Winehouse, No. 28 Bogaz, Somine, Dosteli Sok. No. 4, 137- 8060, Bordeaux, Hatir Sok. No. 10, 137 9794 and Biz, Hatir Sok. No. 4, for a deli-style treat try Ambrosia, Nenehatun Cad. & $airler Sok. 9/A. (146-4416 - for delivery service). Stop at the Hilton Hotel which offers an afternoon Tea, a visit to Koleksiyon A.S carpets, ask Behruz when their next auction will be held. Return later this evening for an elegant dinner at Marco Polo, followed by a roll of the dice at the Casino, or dancing at Jackie's disco. KÖROĞLU CAD. (G.O.P.) This street features several shopping haunts. We highly recommend a stop at Best (Carpets) Kolleksiyon, owned and operated by A. Kadir and Neslihan Ersoy, another personal favorite. Featured items include: a large selection of carpets, including traditional nomadic pieces. Other gift ideas include reproduction of old miniature paintings, framed in Italian wood, purses, wool socks, "Evim Güzel Evim" (Home Sweet Home) hand-made door mat, the favorite "Santa" kilims made of 100% wool and the customized miniature looms. Gallery Zon, a new Art Gallery at Kemer and Köroğlu Cad. features works of local artists. Be sure to register your name for the mailing list. Other gift ideas are featured at this gallery. Kopmaz Halici located at 103/B Köroglu Cad. For assistance ask for Ibrahim or Mahmut. Old carpets, kilims and nomadic pieces are plentiful. Suede and Kilim pillows, and kilim placemats and coasters are a favorite gift item here. Area restaurants include: Genghas Khan (daily special fix price 22,000 TL, Pineapple, Pizza Express, La Boheme, Yakamoz and India-China Town. ATAKULE (TOWER) A huge (but slightly pricey) mall located at the top of Cinnah Cad. Shops meet most of your needs and a variety of eateries. Underground parking is available. Leather and suede shops, sporting good stores, American sneakers, gift store, delightful Turkish dolls, toy stores and camera shops. American style donut shop, Pizza Hut (the real thing), Cafe Chino, cappaccino 5000 TL. CINNAH CAD. Gallery Z, Cinnah Cad. and Kirkpinar No. 5/A. Ask for Fatma. Many gift items available. Copper enamel painted christmas balls, Santa kilims, purses, pottery-ware. Stop at the Berliner Kauffehaus for a snack. -4- SH-5/91 BALGAT Near the Ankara Air Station, visit "Cheap Charlie's" and "The Shepherd". They offer just about every gift item on the economy at just a fraction above the others. The convenience makes it worth the extra cost. You miss the fun of finding your way around town, but in a pinch, you'll be glad they are there to serve you. Returning from Balgat, don't forget that the "Tea House", located on Kuzgun Sok. 74/A is nearby and offers weekly specials and Flamenco Guitar entertainment Saturday evenings from 5.30 to 7:00 pm. A&S Bazaar has a concession store in the lobby of the BX at Base. Ask for Atilla. Sultan Pipe Shop also has a concession store in the same area. HOSDERE CAD. New Horizons Hosdere Cad., Y. Ayranci 138/C Owned and operated by Suzy Hanson features a large selection of Turkish dolls, costume and clothing, copper and brass. FARABI SOK. AREA Baki Gallery Farabi Sok., 19 Çankaya Selections of all Turkish handicrafts. Elsan Farabi Sokak 13/1, Çankaya A variety of gift items and a fair selection of towels and leather. Hoca Farabi Sokak, Çankaya 24/1 Good selection of handicrafts, copper, brass, small carpets. Murat Farabi Sokak 25/1 Excellent selection of Turkish handicrafts and quality carpets. Possibly the best one stop shop for the hurried shopper. Sultan Supermarket is located at the Farabi shopping area. Sultan carry many imported products. They feature an excellent butcher shop with pork products and a fine selection of wines, cheeses and lunchmeat products. -5- SH-5/91 ULUS The Ulus area of old Ankara offers shopping in a more "rustic" atmosphere. If you have the time and inclination, head the taxi driver in the direction of Salmanpazari. You may ask to be dropped off at the "Et Pazar" at the top of Ulus and walk down through the variety of shops. The Et Pazar is an open-air food market offering a variety of dried fruits, pastas, spices, nuts and fish. From Et Pazar you can wind your way down the streets easily to Salman Sokak (Copper Alley). Wander around and look for all the small little junk stores with their "antiques". Ulus is the home of "Copper Alley", Salman Sokak. If you want a particular piece of copper, this is the place to begin your search. GALERI ESKI ANKARA located at Salmanpazari Salman Sokak 58, KERVAN BAKIR, No. 35, ask for Burhan, and ABDULLAH GÜVER, no. 52. These are just a few of the many shops on this street. Comparison shop! Most people have their personnal favorites. Ask to see the CLO's reproduced Ankara Scene article entitled: "Strolling through Copper Ally". SARK HALICI is in Ulus. It is the largest carpet shop in Ankara, fun to just look. They have carpets from all over the world. Unless, you know your carpets and their value, we suggest you just window during for your first visit here. Restaurants include: Kale and Zengar both converted old turkish houses, located just near the museum and open on Sundays. Try Uludag Kebapci for the most famous and the tastiest "Iskender" in Ankara. MUSEUMS IN ULUS Anatolian Civilizations Kadife Sokak, Ankara Castle (Hisar) Open daily except Mondays 8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5.30 Gift store. State Painting and Sculpture Opera Geçidi, Turk Ocagi, Ulus Open daily except Mondays 8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5:30 Ethnographic Museum Opera Geçidi, Turk Ocagi, Ulus Open daily except Mondays 8:30 - 12:30 and 1.30 - 5:30 Gift store. Roman Baths Open daily except Mondays 8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5:30 Ankara Castle Open daily 8.30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5.30 -6- SH-5/91 RESTAURANTS IN ANKARA Restaurants for every taste and budget exist in Ankara. The following is just a partial listing of the many restaurants to be found by the discriminating diner. We suggest you make reservations, many restaurants require them. Biz Hatir Sokak, 4 136 20 00 Elegant restaurant featuring continental cuisine, expensive. Gengizkan Koroglu Cad. 37/A 137 5101 Chinese specialities, fix price lunch 22,000 TL-good! Kale Restaurant Berrak Sok. No. 9 (ULUS) 311-19 45 Charming converted house near museum area. Rooftop dining. Kanyon Hosdere Cad. 193-A 138 09 08 Good steak house near Çankaya Tower, cook your own! Kara Deniz Lokantasi Karanfil Sok. 11/A Sakarya 118 02 57 Good traditional Turkish food. Lovely garden in the summer. La Boheme Koroglü Cad. 96/A 137 58 74 Continental cuisine, nice atmosphere. Reservations suggested. Ask for Elgin, popular spot with all foreigners. Bordeaux Hatir Sok. 14 137 9794 French fare, new restaurant owned by Elgin of LaBoheme. Ask for the Embassy discount. RV Atatürk Bulvari 243/D 127-03 76 Elegant continental cuisine. Somine Dosteil Sok. 4 137 80 60 Lovely fireplace in winter. Uludag Kebapcisi Denizciler Cad. No. 51 (ULUS) 312-45 65 Iskender Kebap. the best in town! A must! Washington Bayindir Sok. 28, Kizilay 117 12 60 Good food, nice lunch spot. Piano music nightly. Winehouse Bogaz Sok. 20 167-65 12 Features imported and domestic cheeses and wines. Nice atmosphere. Yakamoz Koroğlu Cad. 38 136 09 03 Well-known fish restaurant. Yunus 26/A Ahmet Mithat Effendi Sok. Italian Restaurant Zenger Paşa Doyran Sok. No. 13 (ULUS) 311-70 70 Great fun! Converted old house near the museum area. -7- 5/91 FAST FOOD AND SNACKS Ambrosia Nenehatun Cad. & Sairler Sok. 9/A Sandwiches and snacks, free delivery service 146-4416 Berliner Kaffeehaus Cinnah Cad/Ahenk Sok 7/13 140 51 32 German cakes and a variety of coffees. Casablanca Koroğlu Cad. 37 137 55 52 Nice bar with snacks. McDonald's Atatürk Bulvari, Kizilay Authentic American fast food. Pineapple Koroglu Cad. 64/B 146 53 27 Relaxed atmosphere, varied menu. Casual lunch/dinner. Pizza Hut Ataküle/Çankaya Tower 140 78 10 Pizza Pino Tunalii Hilmi Cad. 111/2 168 44 62 All types of pizza. Friendly service. Pizza Villa Bogaz Sokak 13 127 28 24 Pizza and more. Nice garden setting in the summer. NIGHT SPOTS Marilyn Monroe Pizza Tunalii Hilmi Cad. F-34 Farabi Sok. No. 34 Jacqui's Disco Hilton Hotel Useful vocabulary for restaurant patrons bill hesap meat et bread ekmek salad salata breakfast kahvatlı soup çorba chicken tavuk turkey hindi dessert tatlı vegetable sebze dinner akşam yemegi beer bira fish balik tea çay fruit meyva wine șarap lunch oğle yemeği coffee kahve gin cin whiskey viski -8- SH-5/91 BEAUTY SALONS Kuaför Sunshine (Zeki Sener) Cinnah Caddesi 31/A Çankaya 167 99 65 Resit Galip/Ilkadim Sokak 9/B, GOP 136 22 72 Violette Kuaför (Zeki) Farabi Sokak 4/2 Çankaya 126 58 07 Kuaför Resat (Resat) Mahatma Ghandi Cad. 46/B, GOP 136 17 52 A&H (Ali & Hussein) Hilton International Hotel Ask for the Ankara resident card. 126 06 22 Orhan Özkeskin Vali Dr. Reşit Sol. No. 15/C 138 70 36 (off Cinnah) Tahiti (Ahmet) Çankaya Cad. 2/1, Çankaya 138 88 16 Red & White Kuleli Sok. 87/B, GOP Near Pinar Market 146 23 23 Emine Baysoy Attar Sok. 11/2 - 126 16 45 Leg and body waxing salon, pedicure and manicure available. Beauty Salon & Ankara Air Station 125-9943 Barber Shop Tuesday thru Saturday -9- SH-5/91