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FOIA Number:
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MARKER
This is not a textual record. This is used as an
administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential
Library Staff.
Record Group/Collection:
George H.W. Bush Presidential Records
Collection/Office of Origin:
Speechwriting, White House Office of
Series:
Speech File Backup Files
Subseries:
Chron File, 1989-1993
OA/ID Number:
13764
Folder ID Number:
13764-009
Folder Title:
Turkey 7/19/20 [OA 8325]
Stack:
Row:
Section:
Shelf:
Position:
G
26
21
5
3
July 9, 1991
MEMORANDUM FOR TONY SNOW
FROM:
JENNIFER GROSSMAN
SUBJECT:
MORE BACKGROUND ON TURKISH-GREEK RELATIONS AND
TURKEY'S GEOSTRATEGIC PERSPECTIVE
The following are excerpts from a paper by Ali Karaosmanoglu,
a member of the Foreign Policy Institute (Ankara) and the Social
Studies Foundation (Istanbul).
"Turkey defines its security options within three interacting
strategic environments: the global system, implying mainly
Turkey's position as regards the Soviet Union and the United
States; its bilateral relations with Greece, involving mainly
Cyprus and the Aegean; and its position within the Middle East
subsystem."
"After the Second World War, Turkey's freedom of choice was
strictly limited by the Soviet threat and by the bipolar and
heterogenous character of the international system."
"In those years there was a high degree of coincidence between
American and Turkish security interests."
"The last two decades have drastically altered the framework
within which Turkish policy operates."
"In the 1960s and 1970s the circumstances which had induced
Turkey to link its security interests completely with those
of the United States underwent significant changes. In this
period, Turkey's ties with the United States were steadily
reduced. A number of specific political irritants played a
role. The first was President Johnson's blunt letter to Prime
Minister Inonu in June 1964, warning that Turkey was not
permitted to use U.S. military equipment in an operation
against Cyprus. "
"The most recent indication of improving relations between
Washington and Ankara is the considerable increase in U.S.
assistance to Turkey proposed last February by the Reagan
Administration."
"The disputes between Greece and Turkey -- especially those
over Cyprus and the Aegean, two critical strategic areas from
Turkey's security standpoint -- constitute an important factor
contributing to the erosion of NATO's southern flank."
"The first and probably most urgent problem concerns the
methods of settlement of the Cyprus conflict. For Turkey,
intercommunal talks constitute the only valid procedure for
reaching a mutually acceptable and lasting settlement in
Cyprus. Greece does not seem to have adopted this approach.
It rather favors the internationalization of the conflict,
drawing in especially the nonaligned nations, the European
Community, and both superpowers."
"Turkey believes that bilateral negotiations would be best for
the Aegean as well. Because of the Special circumstances of
that sea, an equitable solution to the existing problems can
be found only through such negotiations. Greece again rejects
this approach, and favors the automatic application of the
equidistance principle as in the continental shelf case."
"It should be noted that this Greek dislike for negotiated
settlement has been accentuated since Andreas Papandreou came
to power. The present Greek government has asserted that
Turkey is a security threat, and has demanded from NATO and
the United States "guarantees" to protect Greece from its
fellow Alliance member. NATO and the United States have not
accepted the view that Turkey menaces Greece, and have refused
the Greek demand for guarantees."
"The Turkish perception of Greek-Turkish problems is
traditionally more moderate than the Greek one."
"The Republic of Turkey, founded on Kemalist principles, had
to eliminate the theocratic remnants of the Ottoman Empire and
to develop a secular political structure. Thus, despite its
religious and historic affinity with the nations of the Middle
East, modern Turkey preferred not to show much interest in the
region and especially in the Arab world, although it tried to
maintain friendly relations with all its neighbors."
"After the Second World War, options being strictly limited,
Turkey approached the Arab world from the unidimensional
perspective of East-West tension."
"Turkey's relations with its West European allies were much
more intimate than its contacts with Middle Eastern countries-
-and Ankara's lack of interest in the Middle East was
misinterpreted by the Arab nations as an unfriendly attitude.
President's Trip to Greece and Turkey
Concept Paper
Overview
The President's July 18-22 trip to Greece and Turkey provides a
major opportunity for us to advance our relationships with the
Mitsotakis and Ozal governments. The President will be the first
American President since Eisenhower (1959) to visit both
countries. His trip has dominated the Greek and Turkish press
since it was announced and has assumed enormous symbolic
importance in each country. Ozal and Mitsotakis have signalled
that they expect new security and economic assistance initiatives
from us and their publics have high expectations that the visit
will result in stronger and closer relations with the U.S.
We are well positioned to use the trip to strengthen and broaden
our relationships with both countries. We should announce new
initiatives to convey in concrete terms our interest in closer
ties with Greece and Turkey. We should also emphasize our
willingness to work with them to promote better Greek-Turkish
relations and progress on Cyprus. This will be more difficult to
achieve. We will have to use the President's speeches and
remarks to pound away at this theme and should prepare ideas for
the President to put forward on the trip.
The stop in Greece is in many ways the more important of the two.
Prime Minister Mitsotakis has adopted a clear U.S. bias since
taking office in April 1990. He has consistently backed us on
major international issues, such as the Gulf crisis, and has not
pushed the President publicly on Cyprus.
Mitsotakis has been criticised by Papandreou and even some in his
own party for having allowed the U.S. to tilt toward Turkey on
his watch without having received anything tangible in return for
Greece. In essence, Mitsotakis cannot now demonstrate that his
close relationship with the U.S. has paid off for Greece.
Retaining only a slim, two-vote majority in Parliament,
Mitsotakis wants and needs a greater demonstration of support
from the President during the visit.
The President's visit to Turkey, on the other hand, will likely
take on a celebratory air of the extraodinary expansion of the
relationship during the past year. Total U.S. aid has never been
greater and Ozal's close relationship with the President has
convinced many Turks and Greeks that the U.S. has chosen to shift
2
its traditionally careful balance of Greek and Turkish interests
decidely in favor of Ankara.
The Turks want the President to articulate an even more expansive
vision of the relationship, however, during his visit. They are
pressing us for a joint statement proclaiming new strategic
cooperation in the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East. They
want more U.S. defense and economic aid. The challenge for the
President's trip to Turkey is to convey the sense of a closer
relationship while avoiding promising more than we can deliver.
Ozal will also insist on joining himself to the President for the
entire two days in Turkey. While the President will want to show
support for him, he should also go out of his way to demonstrate
an interest in and respect for Turkey itself and the interests
and values that have made us partners for forty years.
OBJECTIVES FOR BOTH COUNTRIES
1)
Emphasize U.S. desire to improve and expand relations with
both countries, especially on defense and security issues.
-Public remarks should emphasize what U.S. has in
common with both Turkey and Greece--NATO partnership;
democratic and free market values; interest in
stability for the Eastern Mediterranean.
-We should avoid, however, arguing publicly the merits
of 7:10.
2)
Affirm U.S. willingness to help resolve Greek-Turkish
differences, including Cyprus, stressing need for compromise
and flexibility on major, divisive issues.
-President should suggest ways to move forward on
Cyprus: we should support UNSYG's attempt to convene
an international conference by September.
-President should also convince Ozal and Mitsotakis to
agree to a bilateral meeting this summer on major
differences, including a non-agression pact, agreement
on avoiding altercations in Aegean; and agreement on
Aegean seabed issues.
-We should hold open the possibility of the President
suggesting Ozal and Mitsotakis meet with him together
during the trip on Crete or in Istanbul to seek
progress on some of these issues.
3
OBJECTIVES FOR GREECE
1)
Encourage Mitsotakis' inclinations to seek closer ties with
the U.S. but demonstrate to him, the Greek political
establishment and public that pro-U.S. policies pay off in
concrete terms.
-Visit itself will help to draw attention to long-
standing ties between U.S. and Greece. We should
emphasize in remarks fact that this is first
Presidential visit in 30 years.
-President should announce in speech to Parliament
invitation for Karamanlis to make State visit in 1992.
He should also reaffirm invitation for Mitsotakis to
make an official working visit.
-Announce initiatives in security assistance: F-16
purchases; lease of Knox frigates; COBS MOU; continued
healthy $350 million in security assistance.
2)
Work with the Greeks to forge compromises on key issues with
Turkey--Cyprus, Aegean issues, non-aggression pact.
-As noted previously, will require Presidential
involvement with both leaders and possible tripartite
meeting.
3)
Consult closely with Greece to maintain stability in the
Balkans.
-Follow up June 27 bilateral discussions on Balkans by
stressing U.S. -Greek consultation on this issue during
visit.
-We should refer to our support of Greek interests in
Balkans in public statements. This will also reinforce
message of benefits of close relationship with U.S.
-In addition, we should propose joint U.S.-Greek
technical assistance for Albania, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria
to emphasize Greek expertise and our common objectives.
4)
Communicate privately and publicly our rationale for a
strong U.S. relationship with Turkey and need for increased
aid.
4
-President should make this point in meetings with
Mitsotakis, as he has done before SO that Greeks
understand from him necessity of continued expanded
ties to Turkey.
-We should be careful about framing this publicly. May
be able to do best by reference to Turkey's Gulf war
commitment in speech and remarks.
OBJECTIVES FOR TURKEY
1)
Seek agreement on continued, enhanced U.S.-Turkish security
relationship produced by the Gulf conflict.
-We will want to maintain greater access to Turkish
facilities enjoyed during the Gulf conflict for at
least as long as our redeployed forces from northern
Iraq are in Turkey.
-Frame enhanced U.S. access as manifestation of our
desire for a strategic dialogue/understanding with
Turkey on the Gulf and Middle East.
-Emphasize strategic dialogue in public remarks but
avoid a joint statement which could antagonize Greece.
Compromise could be both Presidents mentioning
strategic dialogue and common interests in their
respective press statements at joint press conference.
2)
Strenghten Turkish military capabilities to respond to
future regional contingencies:
-Make commitment to 80-plane F-16 buy. President could
dramatize by visiting F-16 plant at Murted.
-Reconfirm Administration commitment to greater FY-92
FMS level--assert privately and publicly that we will
seek full funding ($625 FMS, $75 ESF).
-Resell package of security assistance Administration
produced for Turkey since start of Gulf conflict.
3)
Support Turkey's desire for further economic integration
with West.
--Reaffirm support for EC membership and enhanced trade
and investment relationship with EC in meantime.
5
-Suggest ways to expand U.S. -Turkish trade but hold off
on FTA. Point to greater Turkish use of GSP privileges
and personal involvement of Mosbacher and Hills as
avenues for more active discussion of these issues.
-Keep pushing for international community to make good
on Gulf crisis economic support payments to Turkey,
including Saudi oil aid.
4)
Convey support for Ozal to help him domestically while being
careful to not personalize the relationship excessively.
President should also pay respect to importance of Turkey
and its institutions to western security.
-Since Ozal will be with President for entire schedule,
their personal friendship and Gulf alliance will be
emphasized. President will want to continue to praise
Ozal's leadership and courage during Gulf conflict.
-At the same time, President should stress our respect
for the Turkish people, the military and other leaders
to convey an interest in Turkey beyond Ozal. We can do
this by meeting with opposition leaders, praising the
role of the Turkish military in the Gulf conflict and
paying attention to this theme in the public
statements.
-Visit to the Ataturk Mausoleum and historic sites in
Istanbul will also help on this theme.
5)
As with Greece, emphasize the importance of movement on
Cyprus and Greek-Turkish issues and need for compromise and
flexibility on both sides.
President's Trip to Greece and Turkey
Concept Paper
Overview
The President's July 18-22 trip to Greece and Turkey provides a
major opportunity for us to advance our relationships with the
Mitsotakis and Ozal governments. The President will be the first
American President since Eisenhower (1959) to visit both
countries. His trip has dominated the Greek and Turkish press
since it was announced and has assumed enormous symbolic
importance in each country. Ozal and Mitsotakis have signalled
that they expect new security and economic assistance initiatives
from us and their publics have high expectations that the visit
will result in stronger and closer relations with the U.S.
We are well positioned to use the trip to strengthen and broaden
our relationships with both countries. We should announce new
initiatives to convey in concrete terms our interest in closer
ties with Greece and Turkey. We should also emphasize our
willingness to work with them to promote better Greek-Turkish
relations and progress on Cyprus. This will be more difficult to
achieve. We will have to use the President's speeches and
remarks to pound away at this theme and should prepare ideas for
the President to put forward on the trip.
The stop in Greece is in many ways the more important of the two.
Prime Minister Mitsotakis has adopted a clear U.S. bias since
taking office in April 1990. He has consistently backed us on
major international issues, such as the Gulf crisis, and has not
pushed the President publicly on Cyprus.
Mitsotakis has been criticised by Papandreou and even some in his
own party for having allowed the U.S. to tilt toward Turkey on
his watch without having received anything tangible in return for
Greece. In essence, Mitsotakis cannot now demonstrate that his
close relationship with the U.S. has paid off for Greece.
Retaining only a slim, two-vote majority in Parliament,
Mitsotakis wants and needs a greater demonstration of support
from the President during the visit.
The President's visit to Turkey, on the other hand, will likely
take on a celebratory air of the extraodinary expansion of the
relationship during the past year. Total U.S. aid has never been
greater and Ozal's close relationship with the President has
convinced many Turks and Greeks that the U.S. has chosen to shift
2
its traditionally careful balance of Greek and Turkish interests
decidely in favor of Ankara.
The Turks want the President to articulate an even more expansive
vision of the relationship, however, during his visit. They are
pressing us for a joint statement proclaiming new strategic
cooperation in the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East. They
want more U.S. defense and economic aid. The challenge for the
President's trip to Turkey is to convey the sense of a closer
relationship while avoiding promising more than we can deliver.
Ozal will also insist on joining himself to the President for the
entire two days in Turkey. While the President will want to show
support for him, he should also go out of his way to demonstrate
an interest in and respect for Turkey itself and the interests
and values that have made us partners for forty years.
OBJECTIVES FOR BOTH COUNTRIES
1)
Emphasize U.S. desire to improve and expand relations with
both countries, especially on defense and security issues.
-Public remarks should emphasize what U.S. has in
common with both Turkey and Greece--NATO partnership;
democratic and free market values; interest in
stability for the Eastern Mediterranean.
-We should avoid, however, arguing publicly the merits
of 7:10.
2)
Affirm U.S. willingness to help resolve Greek-Turkish
differences, including Cyprus, stressing need for compromise
and flexibility on major, divisive issues.
-President should suggest ways to move forward on
Cyprus: we should support UNSYG's attempt to convene
an international conference by September.
-President should also convince Ozal and Mitsotakis to
agree to a bilateral meeting this summer on major
differences, including a non-agression pact, agreement
on avoiding altercations in Aegean; and agreement on
Aegean seabed issues.
-We should hold open the possibility of the President
suggesting Ozal and Mitsotakis meet with him together
during the trip on Crete or in Istanbul to seek
progress on some of these issues.
3
OBJECTIVES FOR GREECE
1)
Encourage Mitsotakis' inclinations to seek closer ties with
the U.S. but demonstrate to him, the Greek political
establishment and public that pro-U.S. policies pay off in
concrete terms.
-Visit itself will help to draw attention to long-
standing ties between U.S. and Greece. We should
emphasize in remarks fact that this is first
Presidential visit in 30 years.
-President should announce in speech to Parliament
invitation for Karamanlis to make State visit in 1992.
He should also reaffirm invitation for Mitsotakis to
make an official working visit.
-Announce initiatives in security assistance: F-16
purchases; lease of Knox frigates; COBS MOU; continued
healthy $350 million in security assistance.
2)
Work with the Greeks to forge compromises on key issues with
Turkey--Cyprus, Aegean issues, non-aggression pact.
-As noted previously, will require Presidential
involvement with both leaders and possible tripartite
meeting.
3)
Consult closely with Greece to maintain stability in the
Balkans.
-Follow up June 27 bilateral discussions on Balkans by
stressing U.S. -Greek consultation on this issue during
visit.
-We should refer to our support of Greek interests in
Balkans in public statements. This will also reinforce
message of benefits of close relationship with U.S.
-In addition, we should propose joint U.S. -Greek
technical assistance for Albania, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria
to emphasize Greek expertise and our common objectives.
4)
Communicate privately and publicly our rationale for a
strong U.S. relationship with Turkey and need for increased
aid.
4
-President should make this point in meetings with
Mitsotakis, as he has done before so that Greeks
understand from him necessity of continued expanded
ties to Turkey.
-We should be careful about framing this publicly. May
be able to do best by reference to Turkey's Gulf war
commitment in speech and remarks.
OBJECTIVES FOR TURKEY
1)
Seek agreement on continued, enhanced U.S.-Turkish security
relationship produced by the Gulf conflict.
-We will want to maintain greater access to Turkish
facilities enjoyed during the Gulf conflict for at
least as long as our redeployed forces from northern
Iraq are in Turkey.
-Frame enhanced U.S. access as manifestation of our
desire for a strategic dialogue/understanding with
Turkey on the Gulf and Middle East.
-Emphasize strategic dialogue in public remarks but
avoid a joint statement which could antagonize Greece.
Compromise could be both Presidents mentioning
strategic dialogue and common interests in their
respective press statements at joint press conference.
2)
Strenghten Turkish military capabilities to respond to
future regional contingencies:
-Make commitment to 80-plane F-16 buy. President could
dramatize by visiting F-16 plant at Murted.
-Reconfirm Administration commitment to greater FY-92
FMS level--assert privately and publicly that we will
seek full funding ($625 FMS, $75 ESF).
-Resell package of security assistance Administration
produced for Turkey since start of Gulf conflict.
3)
Support Turkey's desire for further economic integration
with West.
--Reaffirm support for EC membership and enhanced trade
and investment relationship with EC in meantime.
5
-Suggest ways to expand U.S. -Turkish trade but hold off
on FTA. Point to greater Turkish use of GSP privileges
and personal involvement of Mosbacher and Hills as
avenues for more active discussion of these issues.
-Keep pushing for international community to make good
on Gulf crisis economic support payments to Turkey,
including Saudi oil aid.
4)
Convey support for Ozal to help him domestically while being
careful to not personalize the relationship excessively.
President should also pay respect to importance of Turkey
and its institutions to western security.
-Since Ozal will be with President for entire schedule,
their personal friendship and Gulf alliance will be
emphasized. President will want to continue to praise
Ozal's leadership and courage during Gulf conflict.
-At the same time, President should stress our respect
for the Turkish people, the military and other leaders
to convey an interest in Turkey beyond Ozal. We can do
this by meeting with opposition leaders, praising the
role of the Turkish military in the Gulf conflict and
paying attention to this theme in the public
statements.
-Visit to the Ataturk Mausoleum and historic sites in
Istanbul will also help on this theme.
5)
As with Greece, emphasize the importance of movement on
Cyprus and Greek-Turkish issues and need for compromise and
flexibility on both sides.
(Smith/Grossman)
July 10, 1991
91 JUL 10 P2 Draft Four
TURKEY.TS
PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: ARRIVAL STATEMENT
ANKARA, TURKEY
SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1991
Mr. President, your excellencies, my friends. Barbara and I
are grateful for this gracious reception, and for the chance to
be here in Turkey. // Having heard all our lives about Turkish
hospitality, I can say that reports of its warmth have not been
exaggerated. //
Thirty-two years ago, when President Eisenhower visited
Turkey, he was greeted by a roaring crowd. Thousands hailed him
in the streets -- cheering not merely America but our shared
values and ideals. // One sign in particular touched him. It
read: "Welcome to your second home." / Today, I feel as
President Eisenhower did -- that Turkey is a second home. I say
that not merely because of your hospitality -- but because of the
common ideals and interests we share.
Turkish-American friendship reaches back as far as the late
18th century. We have forged close ties through trade and
investment / military cooperation / and above all, a vision
expressed by Kemal Attaturk -- that "the voice of the government
must speak the words of its people.' //
Recently, Mr. President, your people proved that friendship
anew -- or as a Turkish proverb says, "good friends become
apparent on black days." (IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR). When
2
one of your neighbors cast an "evil eye" on a smaller country,
Turkey acted to to ensure that brutality in Kuwait would not
stand. //
First, Turkey shut down the Iraqi oil pipeline. Then, it
banned cross border trade. When force became unavoidable, you
permitted allied military strikes from your bases. This decision
proved crucial to the success of Operation Desert Storm. /
Furthermore, when you redeployed more than 100,000 troops to the
Iraqi border. That move occupied more than ten Iraqi divisions
and helped deter further Iraqi adventurism. // Because we were
resolute against naked aggression, our Nations stand together at
the dawning of a new world order. //
For forty years, Turkey has been an integral part of the
European community. Most recently, you have helped the Iron
Curtain fall from Eastern Europe -- spurring democracy abroad
just as you have worked hard to build it at home. //
Increasingly, our strategic relationship has ensured self-
determination for nations; for societies, pluralism; for
individuals, choice. It is not only a military relationship --
but also economic and political, cultural and spiritual. //
Over the next two days, Mr. President, I look forward to
discussing how this relationship can further strengthen the bonds
which link our Nations. // We will explore ways to help other
countries do what Turkey has done: Eliminate illicit opium
production. / We will also talk of human rights / regional
disputes / environmental challenges / and of Turkey's economic
3
reforms -- reforms that have helped you build the basis for
prosperity and take advantage of the abilities, diligence and
ingenuity of the Turkish people. You have shown that you can do
great things, when you have the freedom to do them. //
We will focus on maintaining the strong alliance that has
helped move the West from a Cold War to a warm peace. We will
talk about ways in which our shared notions of democracy and free
enterprise can help us make progress in Cyprus and on the Aegean
Sea. /
Let us build on liberty's triumphs of the past several years
-- and give Turkey its due as a productive and important member
of the community of free Nations. //
A Turkish proverb reads, "A shared cup of coffee results in
forty years of memories.' // Mr. President, our shared
conversations can result in deeds and dreams that will inspire
future generations. /
Over the next two days, let us have no fear, as Attaturk
said, "of speaking the truth." Instead, let us use the truth to
attain the stable peace and greater prosperity this nation, this
region, and our world deserve. //
Thank you for the warmth of this reception. God bless
Turkey and the United States of America.
#
#
#
#
POT-- take poub
(Smith/Grossman)
July 10, 1991
91 JUL in Four
tab
TURKEY.TS
PRESIDENTIAL REMARKS: ARRIVAL STATEMENT
ANKARA, TURKEY
PM
SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1991
Pre3 Ozal Yilma3
Mr. President, your excellencies, my friends. Barbara and I
are grateful for this gracious reception, and for the chance to
be here in Turkey. // Having heard all our lives about Turkish
hospitality, I can say that reports of its warmth have not been
exaggerated. / /
Thirty X two years ago, when President Eisenhower visited
Turkey, he was greeted by a roaring crowd. Thousands hailed him
in the streets -- cheering not merely America but our shared
values and ideals. 11 One sign in particular touched him. It
read: "Welcome to your second home. " / Today, I feel as
President Eisenhower did -- that Turkey is a second home. I say
that not merely because of your hospitality -- but because of the
theok No VII
common ideals and interests we share.
Turkish-American friendship reaches XXXXX> back as far as the late
18th century. We have forged close ties through trade and
investment / military cooperation / and above all, a vision
ATATORK
JAG
expressed by Kemal Attaturk -- that "the voice of the government
MeMo
must speak the words of its people." //
Recently, Mr. President, your people proved that friendship
anew -- or as the a Turkish proverb says, "good friends become
MeMo from apparent on black days." (IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR). When
Dr. Lowry, Inst of Turkish studies
ato
chats approp B this or etc. invosion evil
Invaded
100
2
one of your neighbors cast an "evil eye" on a smaller country,
Turkey acted to to ensure that brutality in Kuwait would not
stand. //
First, Turkey shut down the Iraqi oil pipeline. Then, it
banned cross border trade. When force became unavoidable, you
permitted allied military strikes from your bases. This decision
proved crúcial to the success of Operation Desert Storm.
/
NSC draft. Furthermore, when you redeployed more than 100,000 troops to the
Iraqi border. That move occupied more than ten Iraqi divisions
and helped deter further Iraqi adventurism. // Because we were
resolute against naked aggression, our Nations stand together at
the dawning of a new world order.
//
NATO - 195Z For forty years, Turkey has been an integral part of the West
Turkey joined
(History
NSC
associate member of EC applying for full membership
European community. Most recently, you have helped the Iron
draft
Curtain fall from Eastern Europe -- spurring democracy abroad
just as you have worked hard to build it at home. //
Increasingly, our strategic relationship has ensured self-
determination for nations; for societies, pluralism; for
individuals, choice. It is not only a military relationship --
but also economic and political, cultural and spiritual. //
Over the next two days, Mr. President, I look forward to
discussing how this relationship can further strengthen the bonds
which link our Nations. // We will explore ways to help other
countries do what Turkey has done: Eliminate illicit opium
production. / We will also talk of human rights / regional
disputes / environmental challenges / and of Turkey's economic
3
reforms -- reforms that have helped you build the basis for
prosperity and take advantage of the abilities, diligence and
ingenuity of the Turkish people. You have shown that you can do
great things, when you have the freedom to do them. //
We will focus on maintaining the strong alliance that has
helped move the West from a Cold War to a warm peace. We will
talk about ways in which our shared notions of democracy and free
enterprise can help us make progress in Cyprus and on the Aegean
Sea. /
Let us build on liberty's triumphs of the past several years
and give Turkey its due as a productive and important member
of the community of free Nations.
//
Lowry
MEMO
A Turkish proverb reads, "A shared cup of coffee results in
forty years of memories. 11 Mr. President, our shared
conversations can result in deeds and dreams that will inspire
future generations. /
XX
Over the next two days, let us have no fear, as Attaturk ATATURK
said, "of speaking the truth. Instead, let us use the truth to
attain the stable peace and greater prosperity this nation, this
region, and our world deserve. //
Thank you for the warmth of this reception. God bless
Turkey and the United States of America.
#
#
#
#
91 JUL 8 A10: 24
FAX TRANSMITTAL
TO:
DAN JAHN.
Tel:
Fax:
456-6216
FROM:
Institute of Turkish Studies, Inc.
1524 18th Street, N.W., #1
Washington, D.C. 20036
Tel: (202) 328-6208
Fax: (202) 328-6213
DATE:
TOTAL PAGES:
MESSAGE:
Extended Page 1.1
MEMORANDUM
TO:
Ms. JENNIFER GROSSMAN;
FROM: DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF
TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.;
REG.:
POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY
TRIP;
DATE:
JULY 2, 1991.
PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS
COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES:
A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED
REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING
HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPI
TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE.....")
B) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS
REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT
THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE
AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON
TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST)
c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A
FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GUESTS
WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNER
TOASTS:
"A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF
MEMORIES" THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A
LONG TIME)
D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS
THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR-
TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE:
"IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN):
"GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS"
8 July 1991
MEMORANDUM FOR CURT SMITH
FROM:
JENNIFER GROSSMAN
SUBJECTS:
ATATURK QUOTES
The following quotes are by Kemal Ataturk (lit. "father of the
Turks). The highly revered, almost legendary Ataturk founded the
republic of Turkey in 1923 after the collapse of the 600-year-old
Ottoman Empire. POTUS quoting Ataturk would impact similarly to
Ozal quoting Jefferson, or Lincoln. Let's do it.
NOTE:
The quotes have been translated from Ottoman Turkish.
Our Library of Congress expert, Chris Murphy has
encouraged us to edit them as we see fit, then check with
him to make sure we've preserved the original's
integrity. I've included some suggestion.
1)
"Institutions founded on slavery of nations are bound to be
eradicated everywhere." (1924)
OR: Governments which must enslave to survive are destined to
die away.
2)
"The opinion of the government must represent the opinion of
the nation." (1930)
OR: The voice of the government must speak the words of its
people.
3)
"Do not fear of speaking the truth. " (1926)
OR: Spit it out, for chrissakes!!!!1
JUL-11-1991 15:31 FROM LC AFR ME
TO
94566218
P.01
the LIBRARY
OF CONGRESS
91 JUL II P3:29 29
Date: 7/11/91
FACSIMILE COVER PAGE
TO
Name:
Jennifer Grossman
Location:
Telephone
FAX Equipment
Number: (
)
Number:
(
) 456-6218
FROM
Name:
Chris Murphy
Location:
Library of Congress
Telephone
Number: (
) 707-5421
FAX Equipment
Number:
(
)
IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS IN TRANSMISSION:
Please
Call: Chris Murphy
Telephone
Number: (
) 707-5421
Messages (if any): I translated these six from Turkish if
they are not helpful I can try something else
however, negative most Turkish proverbs seem to be rather
1 of 2 pages
LW 3/88 (rev 4/89)
JUL-11-1991 15:32 FROM LC AFR ME
TO
94566218 P.02
The bird with one wing cannot Fly.
a companions long journey is shortened by good
a single friend is equal to 1000 enemies
people with wolves for neighbors
don't eat well.
if much you travel much you will Cearm
a golden cage is still imprisonment
TOTAL P.02
MEMORANDUM
TO:
Ms. JENNIFER GROSSMAN;
FROM: DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF
TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.)
REG.:
POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY
TRIP;
DATE:
JULY 2, 1991.
PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS
COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES:
A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED
REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING
HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPIL
TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE.....")
B) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS
REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT
THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE
AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON
TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST)"
c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A
FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GURSTS
WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNBR
TOASTS:
"A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF
D
IS there a
MEMORIES! THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A
LONG TIME;
joke in?
this
D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS
THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR-
TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE:
"IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN):
GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS"
IF LOOKS COULD KILL
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder -- and maybe evil
is, too. At least people of many cultures think so.
Belief in the "Evil Eye" is common in many parts of
Latin America as well as in most Middle Eastern countries,
including Turkey. Put simply, the Evil Eye is a malig-
nant force emanating from the glance of a person or animal
which is capable of causing disease, death, or bad luck.
The glance may not be intentionally hostile, though
evil persons are often known to use their power will-
fully to hurt others.
The origin of belief in the Evil Eye as a cause of sickness and death is not known;
however, it is SO widespread a phenomenon that it is assumed to be extremely old and
basic to man's belief systems. Amulets and charms of bone, teeth, and horns, most
likely worn to keep away evil spirits, have been found in excavations at Catal H8yUk,
an early farming site in Anatolia dating from 6000 B.C.
Although all people may in theory be affected by the Evil Eye at some time or
another, babies and young children, in particular, are most susceptible. They are
weak and defenseless against malignant glances. In Turkey, the first forty days of
a child's life are the most critical, and strong precautions are taken by the parents
and relatives to protect him from the Evil Eye. After this period, the child is
protected to a lesser degree. Of course, this forty-day period is most likely the
time in which large numbers of infants died in the past, so the protections are
certainly justified on the basis of observed experience.
Protection from the Evil Eye is in the form of a "nazarlik" -- a term referring to
turquoise glass beads decorated with an "eye," gold charms announcing "Mașallah" in
Arabic characters, and miniature replicas of the Koran. However, the "mavi g8z
böncüğü," the blue evil eye beads, are most widespread and are worn on shoulders,
hung around the neck, on infant's cradles, and in houses, shops, and taxis (maşallah!).
This same motif can be seen embroidered, knitted, and woven into clothes, bags, and
rugs.
"Mașallah" (which can be translated to mean "What wonders God has willed) is the
typical response to a compliment in Turkey. Answering "Masallah" gives Allah, rather
than the person, the credit for the admired quality. Compliments are not welcomed; on
the contrary, they are thought to make the spirit world jealous; and they eventually
respond by causing illness or misfortune.
Evil Eye is a powerful force among people in the rural areas where little of the
scientific causes of disease is known. If a villager suspects that he has been the
victim of an evil glance, cures are often applied. The Hoca, or village religious
leader, may be called in to read from the Koran and invoke the name of Allah. Molten
lead is then poured into water; if a loud explosion results, it is proof that an
evil glance was indeed the culprit.
Belief in the Evil Eye, or some malignant force, leads many foreigners to wear
protective charms such as the blue bead. It is one of the cultural phenomena to
which we are introduced early in our visit. Soon it feels quite natural to add a
little blue bead on a chain, one on the front door, or better yet, the rear view
mirror of the car. After all; what can it hurt?
15
MEMORANDUM
TO:
Ms, JENNIFER GROSSMAN;
FROM:
DR. HEATH W. LOWRY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUTE OF
TURKISH STUDIES, INC., WASHINGTON, D.C.;
REG.:
POSSIBLE ANECDOTAL INPUT FOR PRESIDENT BUSH'S TURKEY
TRIP;
DATE:
JULY 2, 1991.
PURSUANT TO OUR TELEPHONE CONVERSATION THE FOLLOWING IDEAS
COME TO MIND WHICH MAY BE OF SOME USE. HERE GOES:
A) TURKS ARE JUSTIFIABLY PROUD OF THEIR WELL-DESERVED
REPUTATION FOR HOSPITALITY. CONSEQUENTLY, ANY REFERENCES
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT MAKE IN THAT REGARD, E.G., "HAVING
HEARD ALL MY LIFE ABOUT THE GRACIOUSNESS OF TURKISH HOSPIL
TALITY, I AM NOW IN A POSITION TO STATE....."J
3) LIKEWISE, TURKS ARE PROUD OF THEIR CUISINE. IN THIS
REGARD, THE PRESIDENT MIGHT SAY: "HAVING LONG HEARD THAT
THERE ARE THREE GREAT CUISINES IN THE WORLD: FENCH, CHINESE
AND TURKISH, I AM AT LONG LAST FULLY AWARE OF THE RESSON
TURKISH CUISINE IS INCLUDED IN THIS LIST)
c) TURKISH IS A LANGUAGE RICH IN PROVERBS. HERE ARE A
FEW RELATING TO HOSPITALITY AND THE TREATMENT OF GURSTS
WHICH MIGHT BE APPROPRIATE FOR INCLUSION IN AFTER-DINNER
TOASTS:
"A SHARED CUP OF COFFEE RESULTS IN FORTY YEARS OF
1
IS there a
MEMORIES! THAT IS: HOSPITALITY IS REMEMBERED FOR A
LONG TIME;
joke
this
D) ON PRESIDENT OZAL'S SUPPORT DURING THE GULF CRISIS
THERE IS A PARTICULARLY APPROPRIATE TURKISH SAYING WHICH
THE PRESIDENT MIGHT USE IN TURKISH (THIS ALWAYS WORKS PAR-
TICULARLY WELL WITH A TURKISH AUDIENCE:
"IYI DOST KARA GUNDE BELLI OLUR" (PRONOUNCED AS WRITTEN):
GOOD FRIENDS BECOME APPARENT ON BLACK DAYS"
Welcome to Ankara. We hope you will enjoy your time in Turkey. This
information packet is designed to make your stay in Turkey as pleasant as
possible. Informative suggestions for sightseeing, shopping and dining are
offered in this packet, as well as general information about life in Ankara.
Please feel free to stop by or call the Community Liaison Office, 126 54 70
extension 350, for any additional information you may need.
Some brief cultural awareness reminders:
ATATÜRK
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was founder of the modern
Turkish Republic. He is a very revered figure.
One should not treat his name or his image lightly
or with disrespect.
RELIGION
Most Turks are Moslem. Although religious
freedom is guaranteed, active missionary work
is illegal.
PHOTOGRAPHY
If anyone objects, do not insist on taking their
picture. It is illegal to photograph Turkish
military installations, hardware or personnel.
ANTIQUITIES
Turkey has a strict antiquities law. It is
illegal to remove an antique, natural or
man-made. If you have any doubts about what
constitutes an antique, ask, as the definition
of antique is very broad. It is illegal to use
metal detectors and gear.
DRUGS
Possession of drugs in Turkey is a very serious
offense. The penalty for simple possession is a
fine and three to five years in prison.
Manufacturing, exporting or importing drugs
carries a prison sentence of 30 years to life.
CITIZEN BAND RADIO
The operation of privately owned radio equipment
for personal communication is prohibited by
Turkish law.
-1-
1/91
HEALTH INFORMATION
DRINKING WATER
Tap water in the city of Ankara is not always potable. Bottled water or soda
water sold in hotels, restaurants and stores is much more reliable than tap
water. Water sources within Turkey are not fluoridated, fluoride supplements
may be recommended for children.
RESTAURANTS
Some general rules to follow while eating out in Ankara:
Order only well cooked dishes.
Do not eat raw salads.
Avoid milk based desserts, baked dry types of pastries are a better choice.
Choose your restaurant from better known reputable establishments.
HOSPITALS
In case of an after hours emergency the following medical facilities are
located near the Embassy area.
Çankaya Hospital
126 14 50
Bilir Sokak 44, Kavaklidere
Güven Hospital
126 80 70
Paris Caddesi 50, Aşağı Ayranci
EMERGENCY TRANSPORT
Çankaya Hospital (contract ambulance)
126 14 50
(In many cases the use of the local taxi company may be quicker)
Ambulance
077
I have a medical emergency. Please help me get treatment at
Hospital.
Acilen tibbi müdahaleye ihtiyacim var. Lütfen
Hastahanesinde tedavi görmem için yardim ediniz.
For the recommendation of a local doctor please call the Health Unit X 333
-2-
1/91
Number 10
March 10, 1989
ottoman ankara
After the Ottomans were defeated by Tamurlane at the
WILLIAM CROSS'D9
Battle of Ankara in 1401, the growth of their young. empire
was disrupted for a century, and Ankara was again caught up in the
ensuing fraternal struggles for power. When Tamurlane left Anatolia in
1403, Ankara fell into the hands of Beyazid's son Muhammed Chelebi, who
proclaimed his rule from Amasya. In the next decade two different
brothers threatened his control of the city and the governor briefly rose
in revolt. In 1482, during the rivalry between Beyazid II and his brother
Gem for the Ottoman sultanate, the governor of Ankara favored the latter.
Beyazit captured Cem's wife and children here and punished the governor.
When the lands of the Ottoman state were organized into provinces, Ankara
became the capital of the great province called 'Anatolia.' When the
provincial capital was moved to Kutahya, Ankara became the administrative
center of a district (sancak). Sometime afterwards, the central part of
Anatolia was made a separate province with Ankara as its capital. Later,
this province was converted to a governorate (valilik) containing the
'sancaks' of Corum, Yozgat, Kirsehir, and Kayseri. At the beginning of
the seventeenth century, Ankara was one of the major centers of the Jalali
revolts. For one year (1607) Ankara was held by a certain Kalenderoglu,
a native son. In subsequent times, Ankara seems to have suffered from the
oppression of state officials, who often fought one another, rivalled
local lords or rebelled against Istanbul. It can be seen from this why
efforts were made to keep the city fortress strong as late as the 19th
century, even though it was far from the frontiers. In 1832-33, Ankara
was briefly occupied by the armies of Muhammad Ali Pasha, the governor of
Egypt who had rebelled against Sultan Mahmud II.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, Ankara appears to have been a
middle-sized city which had spread around the ancient fortress and toward
the plains, especially to the northwest, west and south. It tended to go
beyond the area of the Roman-Byzantine city, primarily to the south.
According to the census of 1522, Ankara contained more than 2,200
homes-180 being in the citadel--of which more than 2,000 were Muslim,
about 120 Christian, and close to 30 were Jewish. From this the
population can be estimated at between ten and twelve thousand. The same
census also states that tax revenues were derived from the production and
sale of alcoholic drinks, market and weighing, wine press and stamp taxes,
dye works, brokerage, arable lands within the city, firewood market,
vinyards, orchards, fodder, and levies on sheep and cattle.
According to information provided by the Ottoman traveller Evliya Chelebi,
who visited Ankara in 1648, the city was made of white stone; there were
about 600 houses without gardens within the inner fortress, which had
four levels, and the lower city was surrounded by a wall out of fear of
the Jalalis. The lower city contained about 70 large mansions with
vinyards and orchards, and more that 6,000 other substantial houses.
780
The houses were not roofed with tile but with the famous Ankara sun-dried
bricks, which were proverbial for their hardness. The open and covered
markets were in the upper section of the city. He also records that many
of the people of Ankara were Turkmen, that there were few Greeks and that
the Armenians and Jews outnumbered them. At the time, Ankara was a city
that grew excellent varieties of cereals and fruit in the surrounding
plains, raised many animals (sheep, goats, horses) in the nearby pastures,
and had well-developed local industries which used easily obtained basic
materials (leather, cloth, pastirme [pastrami/meat cured with garlic and
other spices], wine, and dried fruit).
2
Furthermore, the city became identified with and famous for the Angora
goat which took its name from the city. The hair of the Angora goat,
called tiftik (mohair), was described with high praise as being "white as
milk," "soft as silk, or "better than silk, and "shiny as diamonds."
Processed and worked into yarn in the city and surrounding towns, it was
spun into a cloth called sof or shali. This was the major source of
livelihood for the people of Ankara. The best Ankara cloth was sent to
the Ottoman court and the rest went by caravan to the markets of Istanbul
and Izmir. Not only was much of it consumed within the country, there was
also a substantial export trade to Egypt and Europe. Ankara cloth was
known in the markets of Europe as cimatile or camlet.
Evliya claims that the mohair goats which
were sent to Europe by the "Franks" (i.e.,
Europeans), became the common goat in a
short time. He adds that sof could not be
made in other places even when yarn
acquired from Enguru (Ankara) was used and
that the Ankarans attributed this to a
miracle of Haci Bayram Veli (a local saint,
see below). But in Evliya's opinion, this
secret resulted from the water, air and
other excellent qualities of Ankara.
The fame of Angora mohair continued up until the 19th century. It is
reported that in 1812 about 1,000 cloth looms were still operating and
10,000 weavers were occupied with this work. According to local records,
kaputluks (garment of thick heavy cloth) costing up to 1,000 kurus of the
time were made in Ankara. Futhermore, the best sof was woven in the
city. Shali was dyed in its dye works, and the best prayer rugs were made
from its mohair. When Tournefort visited Ankara at the start of the 18th
century, there were a great many French and Dutch merchants in the city.
Raw mohair was being exported for up to 30 thalers per okka (2.8 pounds).
During the 19th century, though, the mohair industry in Ankara declined.
On the one hand, the former domestic demand for mohair cloth disappeared
and, on the other, there was competition abroad from producers in Kashmir
and Iran. Moreover, as a result of the great industrial revolution in
Europe, the number of hand 100ms in Ankara gradually decreased. In
addition, production of the local dye (cehri = rhamnus tinctoris,
buckthorn), which had been fairly well developed, virtually disappeared
in the face of the competition from inorganic European dyes. Soon mohair
was no longer woven as before. Instead, it was primarily exported as a
raw material. It was estimated that only 500,000 okkas of mohair were
exported from Ankara in the middle of the 19th century.
The hair from the Angora goats that the British transported to. South
Africa, where they were raised in a favorable natural environment and
under excellent technical supervision, gradually began to have a dominant
role in the market. Later, this scheme was successfully repeated in the
United States. Consequently, the price of Ankara mohair, which had
exceeded one half gold lira per okka when in demand, fell to ten kurus per
okka at the beginning of the twentieth century. Since then, the breed of
Ankara goat. has seriously declined due to neglect. At the end of the 19th
century, only one or two looms remained in Ankara and its environs (in the
town of Zir, near Ayas where handspun and knitted socks and mittens are
still made today).
3
because the life of the city was closely brand LJ tn: prant
mohair, it is easy to understand how it it was shaken by the change :n
economic conditions during the 19th century and was gradually
impoverished. Travelers to Ankara around the middle of the 19th century
recorded differing impressions about the city. It was described as both
the poorest city in Anatolia and the largest in the region. One author
explains this contradiction by saying that despite all the calamities that
befell Ankara, it was one of the most populous cities in Anatolia. He
says, however, that because the buildings were constructed of sun-dried
brick--in spite of the availability of building stone-the houses were not
very sturdy; and because they were not embellished on the exterior, Ankara
had a gloomy appearance which was not found in newer cities. He
attributes the city's relative posperity to its favorable location, very
healthy climate, fertile soil, and especially to its vast herds of goats.
The map of Ankara
made by the Prussian
officer von Vincke in
1839 provides a
general idea of the
HATIP
late Ottoman city.
CAY
The external wall
CANKIRI
KAPISI
surrounding the city
MARABE
begins at the
northwestern corner
cami
of the inner fortress
INSLi
CANI
HACIBATRAN
PASA
us
from a tower
KO
AVGUSTES
MIDIALIK
REDIE
TEMPLE
overlooking the
AK KÖPRE
strum BANKISLASI
ISTANSUL
KAPISI
KAZASKER
zincials
BENT DERA
narrows of the Hatip
CAMIL
CAMI
card
Cay [where it is
CAME
KAPI
c.
called the Bent
AKKALE
ESST
HASEXI camii
KAPISE
RUN
Deresi because of the
cari
BRAN
ISABULLAR
is
card
KALE
SOLUTAN
waterworks once
carve
skisch
cani
AEDRIN
CAME
CAREL
BARUTHAND
located there]. The
KAPI
MAN
IZMIR
wis
AYAM
wall climbs to the
KAPISI
Kösxü
GARAC
Inle
KAPI
ESHAN
southwestern
PAZARIC
ARSLAN
CAMIS
CAMI
MAHISLYAN
promotory of the
CAMI
.
CAMIL
"care
KAYSERI
KOYUN
KURSOMLY
RESELEFE
KAPISI
Hidirlik hill. It
CAME
PAZAR
7
VENICANI
CENART
MARAIGAH
then descends to the
KAPISI
SAMAN
PAZARI
ANTER
CAME
HAMAM
w
valley again, turns
MUKADDEM
cari
NAMAXGÃS
CAMIL
at the Dabaglar
KAPI
CAMI
AYNALI
SICAKSU
KAM
quarter and arrives
KATHAGI
at the Cankiri Gate.
LAEKADIN
KAPI
MARET
TÜRBESI
CAMIL
RARACABEY
Then the wall curves
CANIT
to the southeast,
EXIURUM
KARIM
incorporating, most
ERTURUM
importantly, the
a ESPIES
Istanbul Gate (near
present day Ulus
Square), the Izmir
Plan of Ankara adapted from that published in 1854.by Major von Vincke
Gate (near the
Ottoman Bank), the Namazgah Gate (near the Fine Arts and Ethnographic
museums), and finally, the Erzurum Gate. Turning north, the wall passes
the Kayseri Gate and extends toward the southeastern corner of the inner
fortress. According to tradition, shortly before this map was made
(1832), the external wall was repaired by the Egyptian Ibrahim Pasha, who
set up his military camp in Ankara.
4
The section of the city within the wall was not completely covered with
houses. Numerous places were open areas, gardens, and mosque sites with
their associated cemeteries. Outside the walls stretched more cemeteries,
especially to the west. The low lands between the present train station
and the city were occupied by a great marsh formed by the flooding of the
Incesu. Judging from earlier descriptions of Ankara's healthy climate,
this swampy area must have expanded in the 19th century when it became a
notorious malarial marsh which forced a large part of the population to
retire to the vinyards and orchard gardens in the surrounding hills during
the summer months.
At the end of the last century the city presented a rather ruinous
appearance with its sun-dried brick houses in the shadow of the majestic
fortress which loomed above it as a witness' to the city's former glory.
Because the economic activity of the city had been reduced to virtually
zero, it remained a. large but stagnant town. Indeed, it appears that
these conditions did not change even when Anakara was connected to
Istanbul by rail in 1892. Vacant areas in the city caused by recent fires
were not even rebuilt. Toward the end of the last century, one of these
fires suddenly turned several quarters to ashes, and a great fire at the
end of the World War I (1917) completely swept the extensive areas at the
western skirt of the fortress.
The areas enclosed by the inner
fortress, and on the south slope between
the inner and outer fortress walls, are
occupied by the oldest houses in
Ankara. These quarters have narrow and
crooked streets of cobbled andesite
(recently paved!). It has been
estimated that some of the houses in old
Ankara date from the beginning of the
eighteenth century, but virtually all of
them have subsequently been repaired or
modified to some extent.
The method of constructing a typical, old Ankara house, was to erect a
wooden frame and then fill the spaces with stones for the ground floor and
unbaked (i.e. sun-dried) brick above which might then be plastered. The
ground floor has an open courtyard, pantry, kitchen and sometimes includes
a stable. The upper story rests on projecting eaves or rafters which
create the chief external features of the house. Because upper stories
usually extend beyond the lower floors, and the streets are not wide, the
space between opposing houses is narrowed above, creating a shaded passage.
An open stairway leads from the courtyard up to the living areas. There
is often an intermediate floor with little rooms and small windows for
winter use. On the upper floor there was an anteroom [sofa] open to the
balcony facing the courtyard and supported by columns at the front. It
also had windows at the back over the street, and all rooms opened to it.
The walls were covered with plaster and whitewash. The wood was usually
decorated with light-colored flowers painted on a dark base, and the eaved
ceiling was decorated with geometrical designs. The windows contained
small pieces of colored glass and were covered with wooden shutters to
keep out the heat and dust in summer and protect the house from the wind
in winter.
5
None of the monuments built during the Ottoman period were the work of the
sultans; a few were commissioned by vizirs, court officials or governors.
A great many of the mosques that were built in the early Ottoman period
bear the influence, to some extent, of Seljuk architecture--a single
rectangular prayer hall with columns supporting a flat roof. Examples
include the Ahi Elvan Camii and Haci Ivaz Camii off the Koyun Pazar (Sheep
Market) Square, Genegi Camii (0luk Sok. off Ulucanlar), Molla Buyuk Camii
(Yasa-Uc Sok. to the northeast), and Ortemli Camii (below Anafartalar).
Haci Bayram Veli, a local "saint" and founder of the mystic order of the
Bayramiyye, built a mosque next to the Roman Temple in 1425, shortly
before his death. His turbe (tomb) next to the mosque, is in typical
Ottoman style: a square base topped with an octagonal transition zone,
surmounted by a dome. The mosque was extensively restored in the 18th
century and in 1940.
(from the east)
Karacabey Camil
Today. (from the west)
Karacabey Camil
reconstruction
The Karacabey (Imaret) Camii is part of a larger foundation (kulliye)
which includes the tomb of the founder (Ankara's Beylerbey/governor,
1440-89) and a double Turkish bath (below and above Talat Pasa Bul.,
respectively). The mosque itself is a good example of an early Ottoman
"T" plan which would originally have been covered by two large domes, with
two side rooms and a five-domed porch as seen in the mosques in Bursa and
Iznik. This was a transition to the so-called "imperial" or central-dome
style Ottoman mosque that became popular in the 16th century. The Cenabi
Ahmet, or Yeni, Camii (east on Ulucanlar Cad.), built by another of
Ankara's beylerbeys in 1565, is a good example of this latter style and
was done either by the famous architect Sinan or one of his students.
Cenabi Ahmet Pașa Camil
0
0
0
6
museum
N
Bedecken +
entrance
south
today
N
Mahmut Pasa Hans plant
Mahmutpasa Bedesteni plans;
Ankara's past prosperity is well documented in her Ottoman commercial
structures. Near the citadel, the Kursunlu (leaded) or Mahmut Pasha Han
(1421) and Bedesten (1421-59), built by the Grand Vizir (Sadrazam) of
Sultan Mehmet, conqueror of Istanbul, now houses the offices and
exhibition hall of the Museum of. Anatolian Civilizations. The han, a
merchant's hostelry and storehouse from which caravans arrived and
departed, has two arcaded stories around a courtyard, a basement storage
below, and is of mixed stone and brick typical of early Ottoman
construction. It served as one of the main wholesale markets of the
town. Next to it was built a grand Bedesten, the cloth (bez) bazaar, its
central hall covered with two rows of imposing brick domes, and in its
outer hall a series of shops. Here the trading in fine mohair cloth,
silks, and linen was carried on. The main door led off the west side into
the Uzun Carsi (Long Market), now Saraclar (Saddlers) and Cikrikcilar
(Spinners) Streets, starting between Koyun and Saman Pazar (Hay Market,
where the new town hall is presently under construction), and running
down towards the Izmir and Istanbul Gates.
Facing At (Horse) Pazar, opposite the Hisar Gate, are two more old hans,
the Cengel Han (1552), and the Cukur Han (16th-17th centuries) which are
in rather ruinous condition but are still serving merchants in hides and
leather goods. The former is built of stone and brick and has its
original old wooden door. The latter is of mud brick with columns rather
than arches forming the arcades around the courtyard. At the bottom of
what was once the Uzun Carsi is the Sulu Han (c. 1685, below Arnafartalar
Cad. on Kalinaz Sok.) which is built all of stone with rows of pointed
chimneys. along the roof line. It has recently been fully restored and
houses modern shops.
In the Islamic world, a town must have a mosque, and
market, and a bath. Many Turkish baths built under
the Ottomans were grand facilities harking back to
their ancestors, the Roman baths. There are several
old baths surviving from Ottoman times in Ankara, but
only the Sengul (Merry Rose) (also called the Merkez
(Central) Hamam), dating from the 16th century is
still functioning. It is "double," with separate sections for men and
women, each having changing areas covered with a wooden lantern roof, and
domed bath halls lined with marble. Baths played an important role in the
social fabric of society, providing a meeting place where the men or women
would congregate and converse, sorting out their lives and arranging
matters of importance.
Adapted, with additions, by PTL from "A Brief History of Ankara" by Besim
Darkot as translated by Dr. Gary Leiser from an article in the Islam
Ansiklopedisi, 1940. Graphics and additional information from Ankara 50,
1973; and Turkeye'de Vakif Abideler ve Eski Eserler, Ankara, 1983.
7
STROLLING THROUGH COPPER ALLEY
Upon entering from Koyun Pazari, the visitor to Copper Alley (Salman Sokak)
is welcomed by the clanging of hammers on metal and the hustle and bustle of
a busy shopping street. In an atmosphere which suggests another time, exotic
sights, sounds and aromas demand the visitor's attention. This winding alley
invites exploration and is lined with shop after shop whose windows are filled
with the rich gleam and warm hues of copper. Whether you are looking for old
or new, functional or decorative (or just looking), Copper Alley's merchants
will find, make, polish, repair, and bargain until all your needs are met ---
and then some!
At Pasart
Listed numerically on the map are
shops which Pat and I have visited.
We have tried to mention each shop's
"specialty" and have included some
Sokah Spice. Hardware, Odds Ends Shops
biographical information on some of the
shopkeepers.
1. Eski Ankara - The owner is
Mithat who has been in this loca-
tion for ten years and who speaks
SPECIMENTS
excellent English. (He is the
nephew of Elsan on Farabi Sokak.)
123R
SCORRE
At Pasart
He has a large selection of new copper
11/22
and brass, gift items, and traditional
Turkish jewelry, as well as an
/
interesting collection of older
And
USAII
Shops
pieces of copper. He can custom-
make almost anything in copper with
F
only a picture or sketch for a guide-
THERE
and can have your old copper re-
tinned. (There is a rustic bathroom
available in the shop on request.)
Ulucenlar Cod.
2. Gliven Bakir - At this tiny shop
copperwork is bought and sold.
There is a small selection of
mostly old copper. The owner,
Abdullah Gilven, speaks no English.
Telatpasa Bulvari
Talatpage Bulvari
3. Erzurumlu Bakir ve Kalaycisi - Ahmet (affectionately called "The Pirate"
because of his looks, not his business practices) and his brother Omer Karamanmaras
are owners and both speak English. As you enter the shop on the first floor there
are new copper and wooden items, and in a corner case the old jewelry is kept. For
a real adventure, though, climb the rickety stairway to the upstair's loft. It
has a tree house atmosphere, and here you will find the real treasures of the shop -
old copper from Turkey and Iran, odd antiques and kilims and rugs. It is all a bit
musty and dusty, but great fun, nonetheless.
13. Yilmaz Antique Shop - Old jewelry,
18. Erciyes Antique Shop - This shop
embroideries, watches, and coins are
is filled with an array of intruiging
squeezed into this little shop. (No
items. As well as copper, there are
English)
old costumes, inlaid wooden tables and
mirror frames, antique jewelry, Russian
14. Duraklar Antique Shop - Beautiful
boxes, carpets and kilims. The owner
wooden spinning wheels and cradles
speaks a bit of English.
are available here as well as some
old coins, jewelry, and silver pieces.
19. Muamer Erciyes (cousin to #18) -
This shop is full of curiosities -- old
15. Kirimoglu - El Sanat Galeri -
copper (some of which is Persian),
The owners, Mustafa and Avni Kirimoglu,
kilims and rugs, old jewelry and watches
have a medium-sized collection of
antique furniture, and a large collec-
tourist/souvenir gifts including
tion of old coins. (The owner helped
new brass and copper items, picture
me choose a coin for a very young coin-
frames, flower pots, trays, and
collecting friend, steering me away
skewers. (No English)
from the more expensive older varieties
and towards the less expensive newer
16. Kemal Kopal - Old copper and
coins. We settled on a large, somewhat
glass articles, jewelry and inlaid
guady Ottoman coin for 1000 T.L. My
wood overrun this small shop, but it
friend loved it and I appreciated the
it always interesting to visit.
good advice and honesty of the owner.)
17. Berek Kapadokya Antique Shop -
20. Gurses Ticaret - This is a large
The owner of this shop, Hasan, is
shop which deals primarily in plastic
originally from Nevsehir and came to
Ankara six years ago. My first intro-
goods, however, in a small corner
nook, the owner keeps a very small
duction to the man occured in front
collection of old copper pieces and
of his shop when he stopped me saying,
jewelry. This is also a great place
"Hello, Lady. My name Hasan. You
to buy plastic water jugs. The owner
come see my shop." Who could turn down
will put in a spout for you as you
such an invitation? His shop is tiny,
wait.
but he has some beautiful old pieces to
offer.
15
AMERICAN EMBASSY
ANKARA, TURKEY
TURKISH GOVERNMENT LAWS AND REGULATIONS
ON THE PROTECTION OF ANTIQUITIES
In July 1983, the Government of Turkey passed a new
antiquities law which makes the unauthorized collection,
purchase, or export of antiquities illegal and imposesstiff
penalties for violation. The law should be understood by
all serious collectors of antiquities, especially by those
who plan to export these antiquities when they leave
Turkey. Further information concerning the law is
available in the Consular Section of the American Em-
bassy or Consulate. The guidance provided below may
prove helpful, however.
RESIST THE TEMPTATION
For the souven ir collector or weekend archaeologist
traveling around Turkey, the opportunities -and the
temptations- for acquiring antiquities are sometimes ir-
resistable. While many sites have no signs cautioning the
unwary, official silence does not mean official consent.
Under Turkish law, all historic sties (such as fortresses,
castles, ruins) and everything in them or found on the
grounds or in the water around them are the property
of the Turkish Government. Antiquities may not be
purchased, collected, or exported from Turkey without
the authorization of the Turkish Government.
Turkish law, moreover, defines antiquities very broadly.
A safe rule of thumb is: Do not pick up anything which
might possibly be defined as an antiquity, such as statues,
figurines, art objects, artifacts, coins and most other
items of historical, cultural, religious, literary or scientific
value. The Government controls all excavation work in
Turkey. Uncertified diggers and illicit collectors or ex-
porters of antiquities face both a fine of from TL
100,000 to 300,000 and imprisonment of five to ten
years. Even casual digging, if unauthorized, may be
considered a violotion of the law. Some of the items
specifically listed as antiquities are old weapons of all
sorts, pottery, jewelry, tiles and carpets. There is,
moreover, no firm guideline on how "new" an item
must be not to be considered an antique. A piece of
late Ottoman jewelry, a pistol from the Independence
War, or a middle aged rug may or may not be so
considered.
ANTIQUITIES MAY BE PURCHASED, BUT
One may legally buy certain antiquities, but only from
authorized dealers who have been issued a certificate by
a museum for each item which they are authorized to
sell. This certificate is to be given to the purchaser at the
time of the sale. Purchase of antiquities for which the
dealer does not have such a certificate is inadvisable.
One should also obtain a receipt for each purchase.
Children lurking behind marble columns at Ephesus and
other ancient sites do not, needless to say, fall into the
"authorized dealer" category. If one has acquired a
possible antiquity without having obtained the necessary
certificate, it should be evaluated by competent
museum personnel before its removal from Turkey is
attempted.
POSSIBLE CONSEQUENCES
The Turkish Government takes its law on antiquities
seriously and will prosecute offenders. American citizens
who are arrested or detained for alleged violation should
contact the American Embassy in Ankara or the
Consulate in Istanbul, Izmir, or Adana. The Embassy or
Consulate cannot, however, prevent the Turkish Govern-
ment from prosecuting the case, arrange the release of
the accused, or act as his attorney.
SPART
OF BG
DIG
ADMINISTRATIVE MEMORANDUM
AMERICAN EMBASSY, ANKARA
No. 91/057
March 28, 1991
TO
: All Members of the American Community
FROM
: Counselor for Administrative Affairs
wer
SUBJECT
: Travel Advisory - - Turkey
The following travel advisory has been issued by the Department
of State and is repeated below:
Begin Text.
The travel advisory of January 21, 1991, urged American
citizens to defer non-essential travel to southeastern Turkey.
Any American citizens opting to travel there or elsewhere in
00
Turkey should be aware that there have been terrorist acts
directed against Americans. These attacks target persons and
property of organizations with official and commercial ties to
the United States. Although Turkish authorities are actively
working to prevent terrorism, the Department of State warns
American citizens to exercise caution in Turkey.
In addition, United States citizens are advised to continue to
defer all non-essential travel to southeastern Turkey. Sporadic
attacks by separatists continue to occur against Turkish police
and civilians in several southeastern provinces of Turkey.
Travelers to this region are advised to cooperate with travel
restrictions or other security measures imposed by Turkish
authorities. Travelers are further cautioned not to travel off
main highways in remote rural areas or generally to drive at
night.
U.S. citizens contemplating travel to Turkey should check upon
arrival with the U.S. Embassy in Ankara or the U.S. Consulates
in Istanbul, Izmir and Adana to learn whether there are special
travel restrictions in particular provinces.
Finally, travelers are reminded that unauthorized purchase or
removal from Turkey of antiques or other important cultural
artifacts is strictly forbidden. Violation of this law may
result in imprisonment. Travelers who wish to purchase such
items should always insist that the seller provide a receipt and
the official museum export certificate required by law.
This travel advisory upgrades the January 21, 1991, travel
advisory from caution to warning and advises travelers to
exercise caution in Turkey because of terrorist activity.
Expiration: Indefinite
End Text.
For more information about Ankara the CLO has short articles on:
The Mosques of Ankara, including the Kocatepe Mosque in the new city
Roman and Ottoman Ankara
Wandering through the traditional shopping areas in the old city and Kizilay
Archaeological and historical sites in the vicinity of Ankara
Atatürk's Farm
Atatürk's Mausoleum
Ankara's museums
HACI BAYRAM
CAMIS
TEMPLE OF
ROME of AUGUSTUS
CITADEL
VIEW
ZiNCiRLi
CAMII
HISARPARKI CADDESI
ALAEDDIN
CAMIL
FARMER'S
MARKET
"VIEW"
OLD
ALTER 0700
"NEW"
OLD HOUSE
ANKARA
MUSEUM OF
ATATÜRK BULVARI
ANATOLIAN
AT
CIVILIZATIONS
YOKUSU
PAZARI
ALLEY LOTOR
ASLAN
CAMII
ARD
ALLEN
AHI ELVAN
CAMII
PICTURE
CAD.
SOK.
PAZAR
ULUSANLAR
YEN
CAMii
SAMAN
PAZARI
KOTH
TALATPAÇA BULVARI
HACETTEPE
UNIVERSITY
KARACABEY
CAMII
EMBASSY POLITICAL SECTION
PRESS SUMMARY FOR JUNE 7, 1991
CYPRUS
Citing leaked information, Nur Batur of "Milliyet" writes
that President Ozal told French President Mitterrand during their
meeting that Turkey and the Turkish Cypriot side are ready to
start negotiations to solve the Cyprus problem. Ozal reportedly
told Mitterrand that Vassiliou and Mitsotakis are holding back
from negotiations. Mitterrand reportedly made no comments on the
Cyprus issue.
"Milliyet" reports Greek PM Mitsotakis, departing for
Greek Cyprus, said the Cyrpus issue has entered a critical phase
and no one can guess what will result from international activity
on the issue.
U.S.
"Cumhuriyet" reports the trade delegation headed by U.S.
Secretary of Commerce Robert Mosbacher started its contacts in
Turkey. The visiting Seceratry and his delegation met with State
Minister Kamran Inan. The paper says Mosbacher and State
Minister Gunes Taner signed a "Master Grant Agreement." "Gunes"
quotes Taner as saying that the agreement will improve bilateral
trade and create opportunities to sign a free trade agreement
with the U.S.
"Gunaydin" reports U.S. Assistant Defense Secretary Paul
Wolfowitz praised Turkey as a model for all Middle East
countries. At the same press conference, Wolfowitz noted that
Turkey has strategic importance and has proven that a Muslim
country can live with democracy and western institutions.
In an article published by the "Washington Post, U.S.
strategy expert Brzezinski said the leader of the Russian
Federation, Boris Yeltsin, is following the same method used by
Ataturk. Brzezinski noted there is an astonishing similarity
between Yeltsin's histoircal perspective on Russia and Ataturk's
approach to a modern Turkey.
IRAQ
"Hurriyet" reports Iraqi Kurds have stopped 56 Turkish
trucks carrying food stuffs on the Zakho-Duhok highway. Member
of the Kurdish Democratic Party Fadil Madni said they allowed a
one-time passage to the Turkish trucks, but from now on Turkish
officials should contact Kurdish leaders when they are sending
food to Iraq.
-2-
USSR
All papers report Soviet President Gorbachev, in a press
conference in Oslo, said the western press is implementing a
double standard against Soviet Union and urged it to deal with
problems faced by Turkish and Yugoslavian workers in Europe.
The Soviet intelligence organization KGB announced that
Armenian terror organization ASALA, which had assassinated
Turkish diplomats, is still functioning and is illegally
transferring arms to Soviet Armenia.
DOMESTIC AFFAIRS
ANAP chairmanship candidate Mesut Yilmaz said he will not
withdraw his candidacy. He noted that President Ozal's proposal
to split the ANAP chair and the Prime Ministry between two people
can only be possible if he withdraws. He said Ozal's taking part
in the rivalry in ANAP will create unrest in the party. Yilmaz
is expected to meet with Ozal today. On the other hand, "Sabah"
writes that Ozal sent Yilmaz a message through a minister
offering his support to Yilmaz in the ANAP general convention and
pledging Yilmaz will be both Prime Minister and ANAP Chairman.
Papers say PM Akbulut told provincial chairmen and
delegates he hosted at a luncheon that the Chairman of the party
should be honest and of a character to enhance unity and respect
within the party. Akbulut noted that he embodies all these
characteristics.
Parliament approved a bill authorizing the government to
make decrees having the force of law in order to make changes in
laws that set guidelines for public employees' financial and
benefit structures, in laws establishing new ministries, in laws
for the Social Security Institution and State Employment Office.
State Minsiter Mehmet Kececiler said the authorization is given
to the government only for a ten-month period.
All papers write that relatives of prisoners who are on a
hunger strike to protest the anti-terror law wanted to meet with
Parliament Human Rights Committee Chairman Eyup Asik. Police
tried to prevent the protestors from entering the parliament
complex. Two deputies from the People's Labor Party, Mahmut
Alinak and Adnan Ekmen, were harassed by the police and 100
people were detained.
"Gunes" reports DYP leader Demirel said Turkey's goal is
to establish a real democracy which will not be interfered with
by military coups. Demirel also criticized ANAP rule by saying
the government lacks popular support.
"Hurriyet" reports SHP will hold its Third Regular
General Convention July 27-28.
"Milliyet" quotes Aydin Menderes, son of the late PM
Adnan Menderes, as saying President Ozal told him when they met
that if he joins ANAP now, the party might elect him Chairman.
Menderes declined Ozal's offer.
Strolling Through Sakarya
angles ankara
14
Buyuk Carsi
(gold and
jewelry)
1. TARHAN KITABEVI (moved)
Tuna Cade
2. Basketseller
3. Fishmonger
6
4. Kebab Stands
5. Flowers
6. ABC Bookstore
Z
3 Selanik 4 sok.
11 10 Inkilap Sok.
12
12
19 13 19 Sokak
Mithatpasa PT Caddesi
7. Butcher/cheese/deli
8
9
8. Yarn store
7
9. PAPAGAN's Nuts, etc.
10. Keys/Anahtarci
SAKARYA PROMENADE
14
15
20
11. SAFRAN Spice Shop
21
5
12. Bookbinders & Printers
ATATURK BULVARI
17
13. Sporting Goods
22
16
14. Paper & Art/Kirtasiye
4
18
3
24
15. Mussels/Midiye
1
16. WASHINGTON
2
21
ZIYA GOKALP CADDEST
17. KÖRFEZ
18. French Culture Center.
19. Outdoor cafes
Kizilay
20. Baklavacı
Circle
21. LOKMAN HEDKIM's Goodies:
GIMA
23. TURK EL SANATLARI
to
Cankaya
23
22. Kutahya fine ceramics
PTT.
24. HAŞET Bookstore
The Sakarya shopping promenade is a feast for all the senses, giving both
the long-time resident of Ankara and the newcomer an adventure in the
sights, sounds and heady aromas of the city. Recent renovations and the
addition of flower stalls and fountains have rendered Sakarya one of the
most charming shopping and strolling malls in town--a delightful place to
visit, browse and purchase goods for the home. One can shop for most
anything here, from the freshest of breads, chéeses, meats, fish and
produce to nuts, herbs and spices, books and baskets. The following
highlights of a recent walking and munching tour of Sakarya are offered
to tantalize the reader with a glimpse of the delights that are within
this four-block section of Kizilay.
You can enter Sakarya from Ataturk Boulevard, one block below the Kizilay
circle (GIMA/Ziya Gokalp) where a group of small kiosks herald the pedes-
trian mall. One of the first stops on the right is TARHAN KITABEVI, a
very well-stocked bookstore. You will find great guides and splendid
photographic books on Turkey, including Sami Güner's magnificent volume
which currently sells for about $50, There are many books to choose from
in English from politics and society to cookbooks, carpet books, and
the lilting fiction of Yashar Kemal. In addition to books in Turkish,
English, French and German, its stock comprises puzzles, games, and items
for children plus a fine selection of notecards, postcards, and slides
of Turkey. Izzet Tarhan, who speaks excellent English, opens his shop
from 8:30 to 12:30 and 14:30 to 19:30 Monday through Saturday.
Continuing down the Sakarya promenade you come upon the fishmongers who
offer Ankara's best of the catch. On the right are DALYAN BALIKCISI and
UNLU ISTANBUL while across the street is KARADENÍZ BALIKCISI. The fish
is trucked in overnight and quite fresh "palamut" (bomito, horse mackrel),
"lüfer" (sea perch, blue fish), "istavrit" (mackrel, scad), and "torik"
(large bonito) in stock.
Next, the smell of fish is replaced by the tantalizing aroma of kebab
grilling on the skewer for döner sandwiches at the two corner stands.
These always draw a crowd at lunch time--I'm tempted anytime and love
to sit and enjoy viewing the flower stalls and the passerbys.
If you are still in the market for books, you can make a detour down
Selanik Sok. to the ABC bookshop which also has plenty of English items.
In the mid section of Sakarya are a number of nut shops (kuru yemiş--
desiccated delicacies) and spice shops (baharatci). On the left (north)
side in the second block PAPGAN'S nut shop displays hindistan cevizi
(coconut), ceviz (walnuts) of with other nuts and goodies inside: çam
fistigi (pine nuts), kuru erik (prunes), susam (sesame seeds), yellow
raisons and a köfte spice mix. Here you can also get fresh coffee beans
and have them ground (take a whiff--umm). Around the corner to the
left an excellent tiny spice shop SAFRAN BAHARAT usually maintains a
good stock of specialties: tarçin (cinnamon)--bôth sticks and ground,
kimyon (cumin), koryondor kisnis (coriander), karanfil (cloves), anison
(anise), defne yaprak (bay leaves), yeni bahar (all spice) and three
strengths of kırmızı biber (paprika to red hot pepper). Besides the
usual dried fruits and nuts there is also rices, bulgars, lentils,
canary seed, rose water, and for conditioning and auburn touch-ups,
kina (henna) is kept by the sackful.
You will probably enjoy just exploring all the many small shops in
this area-from bookbinders and art suppliers to yarn shops and
sporting goods (see map). All this browsing is likely to work up
your appetite and there are plenty of culinary delights available for
instant or lingering gratification. On the corner of Bayindir Sokak
at KOKOREÇ MIDIYESI they serve deep-fried mussels--50TL a wooden
skewer-the smell is irresistable. If you need more substantial fare,
Bayindir Sokak resembles "restaurant row." The WASHINGTON (once Kristal)
is one of the best international lunch spots, the KÖRFEZ next door is
perhaps the best for truly delicious Turkish food with an unspoiled
local atmosphere at very reasonable prices, and in the opposite direction
are numerous outdoor cafes that provide a good lunch and a chance to
people-watch.
Now, if you feel like dessert, going back along the south side of Sakarya
you 11 find a sweet shop selling all kinds of baklava (50 TL/piece),
and then another wonderful combination nut and spice shop, LOKMAN
HEKIM, which has a fascinating display of myriad, colorful, exotic nibblies
and additives, all with intriguing labels. And here, as well as down
by TARHAN's, you can get icecream cones (dondurma). The sherbert-like
"limon" is my favorite on a hot day.
In the next block is a new, fine housewares store with lovely Kutahya pieces.
Venturing on around up Selanik Sokak, just before the pedestrian bridge,
take a peek into LOKMAN HEKIM's BAHARAT SIFALI for strange spices and
herbal cures, a folk medicine and healthfood store with all the
ingredients for a witch's brew. They also have luffa ("lif") for a
good scrub.
If you haven't completely exhausted your energy, you can leave the
Sakarya area by crossing Ziya Gokalp Caddesi over the pedestrian
bridge and take a right to arrive at Karanfil Sok. which is now a pedestrian
mall behind GIMA. Up the stairs on the left at No. 5/53 in a second floor
window you will see the sign for a great little handicrafts shop - "Turk El
Sanatlar." We'll have to stop here, but one can go on and on
Based on the ANKARA SCENE X #42, 1983 with added field work
PRE-ADVANCE ROOM ASSIGNMENTS
ANKARA HILTON HOTEL
NAME
ROOM ASSIGNMENT
Sig Rogich
1613
Jay Parmer
1614
Spencer Geissinger
1617
Kristin Goodwin
1603
William Sittmann
1618
Jeannie Bull
1620
Mark Stafford
1606
Ron Mazer
1615
Andrea Richhart
1616
Rich Miller
1604
Bill Morlock
1605
Ronald Luzania
1619
Bill Lord
1607
James Straight
1608
Brad Fugitt
1609
CDR Jake Ross
1610
Dr. Lawrence Mohr
1505
Lt. Anthony Mauro
1507
Maj. Steven Riewerts
1508
Maj. Jay Farmer
1509
Robert Weiderman
1510
-2-
Peggy Dooley
1516
John Dreylinger
1517.
Susan Biddle
1518
Ellis Kitchen
1519
Mark Kramer
1403
Wendy Walker
1404
Ron Hacker
1413
Tony Brunton
1414
Ingrid Arnesen
1415
Wally McNamee
1419
Tom Raum
1405
Dean J. Haas
1318
Paul Bruin
1409
HILTON HOTEL -168-28-88
EMBASSY CONTROL ROOM - ROOM 1621
EMBASSY EXTENSION - 492
PTT LINES 167-09-34
167-07-88
PRESIDENTIAL PRE-ADVANCE
7 JUNE - 9 JUNE, 1991
KEY MISSION PERSONNEL
TELEPHONE LIST
AMBASSADOR
MORTON ABRAMOWITZ
EXT 200 126 54 70
DCM
MARC GROSSMAN
EXT 202 126 02 29
POL COUNSELOR
MIKE AUSTRIAN
EXT 212 138 03 15
POL/MIL COUNSLEOR
REGINA ELTZ
EXT 235 146 49 82
PUBLIC AFFAIRS COUNSELOR
LARRY TAYLOR
EXT 423 136 64 00
SCIENCE COUNSELOR
ARNIE LONG
EXT 226 140 68 55
ADMINISTRATIVE COUNSELOR
BILL KELLY
EXT 351 138 42 30
SPECIAL ASST FOR VISIT
DEAN HAAS
EXT 352 HILTON HOTEL
ECON COUNSELOR
CHARLIE JACOBINI
EXT 252 138 18 72
CONSULAR AFFAIRS
BOB SORENSON
EXT 320 146 49 81
DAO
COL. JERRY KAFFKA
EXT 300 138 98 51
RSO
GERRY KILGORE
EXT 354 138 12 94
JUSMMAT
GEN. WILLIAM FARMEN
EXT.2101 125 99 43
JUSMMAT OPS
COL. AL MAC DONALD
EXT 4215
TUSLOG
GEN. RALPH ROHATSCH
EXT 3198 125 99 43
TUSLOG EXEC
COL. RODNEY KONTNY
EXT 2133 125 99 43
GSO
MIKE MILLIGAN
EXT 484 137 79 56
MILDRED PATTERSON
EXT 488 126 02 29
COMMUNICATIONS
RON CHARLES
EXT 270 167 72 753
BUDGET & MANAGEMENT
SID KAPLAN
EXT 360 138 14 06
SYSTEMS MANAGER
PETER JENSEN
EXT 374 139 41 35
-2-
PERSONNEL
BILL BUTLER
EXT 262 127 19 59
CLO
ALMA KAPLAN
EXT 351 138 14 06
HEALTH UNIT NURSE
JO LIEBIG
EXT 277 190 09 78
EMBASSY SWITCHBOARD
126 54 70 -- 75
EMBASSY FAX MACHINES:
CHANCERY
167 00 19
ANNEX ONE
167 00 57
USIS
128 31 35
MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS AFTER HOURS OPERATOR
287 25 55 - 85
MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS DUTY OFFICER
287 18 85
(NOTE: CAN BE USED TO CONTACT MFA 24 HOURS)
ANKARA SHOPPING TIPS
Compiled by the CLO
¡SIGH
I SAID SIGHE!
WHAT'S
I'M BORED!
WANT TO PLAY
NO!
WRONG ?
CARDS ?
HOW ABOUT
WANT TO REARRANGE
A GAME OF
THE FURNITURE ?
No!
CHECKERS ?
NO!
WELL THEN, WHAT DO YOU WANT
TO DO ?!
GO
SHOPPING
2-4
© 1990 by King Features Syndicate inc World nghts reserved
BROWNE
The following information has been prepared to assist you with your shopping
and finding your way around town. We hope you enjoy your stay in Turkey.
Ask for other CLO handouts regarding parks, picnics, travel, Ottoman Ankara,
The Eyes Have It, Exploring Old Ankara, Copper Alley, Sakarya Plaza and more.
Contact us at 126-5470 extention 350 if you need assistance.
It is our pleasure to serve you!
KIZILAY
CLO recommends the following gold shops but urges you to make inquiries from
friends and co-workers about other reliable merchants. Be careful when using
a merchant who is not referred. For those of us who are reluctant to rely on
our Turkish language skills, the following two merchants generally receive the
"expatriate" trade.
ZEKI CANDAN's Jewelry shop is located in Büyük Çarşi 67/18 Atatürk Bul.
Custom orders as well as traditional items are available. Cartouçe and Arabic
necklaces are popular requests.
HOCA YÜKSEL's Jewelry shop (105/12 Atatürk Bul.) is another favorite shop.
Custom orders are his specialty. The owner, Hamit Dagcinar, speaks English.
CAN Soysal Pasaji Asma Kat No. 122, Atatürk Bul. Can jewelry shop comes
recommended highly by one embassy employee. At Can you will need all your
Turkish language skills since he doesn't speak English.
Visit other shops SO you can compare prices and quality.
Continuing on towards the Embassy on the far side of the street is the VAKKO
Department store. Vakko is considered expensive by most standards, but a
stroll through the store is free and worth your time. Silk scarfs are an
affordable, quality item at Vakko.
SAKARYA PLAZA
Near the Embassy and a pleasant break spot at lunchtime. Körfez and
Washington Restaurants are located here, as well as, Turkish style fast food,
i.e. Gözleme and Doner Kebab, featured in outdoor stalls. You can shop for
your dinner at the outdoor markets stocked with fresh vegetables, fish and
flowers. The Kütayha Showroom is located on the main promenade and beneath
this are the famous butcher shops, well worth a peek. Prices are fair. Also,
the nut and spice shops are excellent. (Ask CLO for the reproduced Ankara
Scene Article on this area).
"Big Mac Attack" Mc Donald's is only a block away on Atatürk Bul.
"Sweet Attack" Divan Pastanesi, on Atatürk Bulvari No. 58. Nicely packaged
gifts of candy and sweets found here, ask for Sulten Acar for assistance.
Other shops include Mudo, Beyman, Vepa and many more. Walking along Atatürk
(across the street from McDonald's) you'll come to Chez Güray 84/9-downstairs,
Avanos pottery is offered here. On the same side of the street there is a
large Paşabaçe showroom where it is nearly impossible not to find the right
gift. Very near here at the first walkover is a shop called the LAPIS LAZULI,
Engürü Pasaji, Alt. Kat No. 107 7/15. This jewelry shop is a favorite of many.
SH-5/91
-1-
TURKISH MINISTRY OF TOURISM HANDICRAFT SHOPS
There are two handicraft stores in the Ankara area. Both are located in
Kizilay. One on Mesrutiyet Caddesi (1/2 way up on the left side from Atatürk
Bulvari, the second store is located on Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvari, next to
the Ministry headquarters. Excellent shops for gifts at a fair price.
IZMIR CADDESI AREA
TOWELS * BATHROBES * SPORTING GOOD SUPPLIES * FURS * LEATHER * "SECONDS"
From Kizilay on Atatürk Bulvari go to the area of Izmir Cad. Here you will
find Bargain Basement (Onur Çarsi), on the next street parallel to Izmir, it
is called Meneşke Sok. and most taxi drivers know the area. The bottom floor
of this building has three or four recommended shops, Ankara Tekstil, Pinar
Çeyiz, Selim Çeyiz, for towels, Başak Spor, Irmaklar Spor for Sporting goods.
Irregular merchandise is available throughout and sometimes one can get very
lucky in finding a real buy. LOOK carefully! At the end of Meneşke Sok.
there is a second Çarsi called Moda Çarsi. Here you can find towel, linen and
clothing shops. Throughout this general area you will find sporting good
stores, fabric shops and tailors. Prices are less than other spots in town.
Take time to wander around and see what shops you may find. Visit Çarsi on
Atatürk Bul. "seconds" from Benetton and Beyman can occasionally be found.
FURS AND LEATHER SHOPS
Fur and leather shops are plentiful in the Kizilay and Izmir Cad. areas. Men
and women's Shearling jackets are found at most leather shops.
ASKÜRK DERI, Menekse Pasaji, and ASRIN KURK DERI, Izmir Cad. Ihiamur Sok.
7/4 (near Mersa) is one of the more popular fur and leather shops in the area,
but look around there are many others.
TAILORS
Ali Güleç Ulus Ishani C Blok Kat 2 No. 220 311-59 54 / Ev. 126-42 42
Men's tailoring. Will come to your home or office for fittings.
Uç Kardeşler, Ali Ugun, Izmir Cad. No. 7/5 (Yenisehir)/Ladies tailoring.
Kadin Terzisi, (Lady's Tailor) Ihsan and Mustafa, Izmir Cad. No 9/9
(Yenişehir). - my personal favorite.
Çağin (tailor), Leather suits, skirts etc. Atatürk Bul. 69/Işhani Kat.5 No.203
Kizilay, and Tunalii Hilmi Cad. No. 89/22 (showroom)
Mina - Erol Egri, Karanfil Sok. Uslu Han No 16/60 Kizilay. Blouses.
FABRIC AND NOTION
Mersa - large selection of fabric at a reasonable cost. Izmir Cad. 23/A.
Ipek Kumaş - large selection of silk and satins, reasonable, Izmir Cad.
Dior - large selection of moderate to expensive fabrics, Ataturk Bul.
Sik Bayanlarin - Notions, wool, buttons, lace, etc. 37/C Izmir Cad.
Batica - Silk and silk scarves, Izmir Cad. Moda Çarşisi
Güzel Giyim - fabric in Moda Çarşisi
Akyuz Kardeşler - silk fabric in Moda Carşisi
-2-
SH-5/91
TUNALI HILMI
A delightful street for window shopping. Take your time and have lunch.
Plan on a lunch at Pizza Pino about half-way up the hill or Marilyn Monroe's
Pizza at No. 75. It is possible to do all your last minute errands and
shopping on this street alone. Tunali Hilmi Cad. covers all your shopping
needs. Items range from semi-precious gem-stones and minerals shops to
handmade sweaters with leather or kilim patches, leather clothing, boots,
bags, purses and some of the best silver shops. Visit Yetkin for "LEO'S JOKE
STORE" and the Tunali Çarsi.
CLOTHING & SILVER
The first shops on Tunali are small boutiques for men and women. Begin at
First and walk from Swan Park to the top of the hill. Pasaji or (Mini-Malls)
are abundant. The first is Kugulu (or Swan) Pasaji at No. 18. Here you will
find leather, sweater, silver and gold shops. Antik Tugaa (no. 88/14 Tunali
Cad. and in Kugulu Psj. 18/58), Yürsel Silver House (no. 123) are two of the
more notable silver shops in this Pasaji.
GEMS AND MINERALS
Towards the top of the hill and across the street, is a large black marble
building, No. 88 Tunali Hilmi Cad which houses some exceptional shops. The
Mineral Shop located at No. 47 feature uncut gemstones, minerals and fossils.
Anadoludan No. 88/79, is an interesting shop dealing in ethnographic material
and assorted 'old and new' artifacts.
LEATHER AND SUEDE
Leather and Suede shops are concentrated within a small section on Tunali.
Suggested stores include: Model Leather and Suede Shop at No. 82. Ugur Deri
Leather Shop at No. 106, Çagin Deri Süet (Leather Shop) at 89/22 and Akay
Deri Süet located at 82/8-9 Tunali Hilmi Cad. Custom orders are available.
SWEATERS
Sweaters can be found on the bottom level of Kugulu Pasaji. For hand-made
sweaters stop at 98/48 Demirdögen Pasaji (Aloha) and see Mrs. Sevinç Uluser to
place your order.
SHOE REPAIR
Near the top of the hill is "Salmander" No. 77/A, a shoe repair service.
IMPORT/EXPORT SHOPS
Visit Gümuşsoy Çarsi, 79 Tunali Cad. Most stores here are import/export
shops which carry seconds and irregulars. Examine your merchandise
carefully. Here you can find a bargain in childrens' and womens' clothing.
Labels include J.G. Hook and Jos. A. Bank.
FLOWER AND BASKET SHOP
Kelebek Flower and Basket Shop is a new store located at 63 Tunali Hilmi Cad.
A delivery service is featured in the advertizements.
-3-
SH-5/91
G.O.P.
Han Carpet Co. Ltd. located at No. 87 Nene Hatun Cad. features a collection of
carpets, kilims, kilim bags, purses, back packs, desk top calendars and many
more handmade kilim and leather products. This shop is a MUST.
MEERSCHAUM
The Sultan Pipe Shop is located at 43/B Resit Galip Cad. Signed collector
pieces are available. Special orders are possible, give plenty of time.
Restaurant in the G.O.P. area are plentiful. Some suggestions: Mona Lisa,
on Reşit Galip near Sultan's, Winehouse, No. 28 Bogaz, Somine, Dosteli Sok.
No. 4, 137- 8060, Bordeaux, Hatir Sok. No. 10, 137 9794 and Biz, Hatir Sok.
No. 4, for a deli-style treat try Ambrosia, Nenehatun Cad. & $airler Sok. 9/A.
(146-4416 - for delivery service). Stop at the Hilton Hotel which offers an
afternoon Tea, a visit to Koleksiyon A.S carpets, ask Behruz when their next
auction will be held. Return later this evening for an elegant dinner at
Marco Polo, followed by a roll of the dice at the Casino, or dancing at
Jackie's disco.
KÖROĞLU CAD. (G.O.P.)
This street features several shopping haunts. We highly recommend a stop at
Best (Carpets) Kolleksiyon, owned and operated by A. Kadir and Neslihan Ersoy,
another personal favorite. Featured items include: a large selection of
carpets, including traditional nomadic pieces. Other gift ideas include
reproduction of old miniature paintings, framed in Italian wood, purses, wool
socks, "Evim Güzel Evim" (Home Sweet Home) hand-made door mat, the favorite
"Santa" kilims made of 100% wool and the customized miniature looms.
Gallery Zon, a new Art Gallery at Kemer and Köroğlu Cad. features works of
local artists. Be sure to register your name for the mailing list. Other
gift ideas are featured at this gallery.
Kopmaz Halici located at 103/B Köroglu Cad. For assistance ask for Ibrahim or
Mahmut. Old carpets, kilims and nomadic pieces are plentiful. Suede and
Kilim pillows, and kilim placemats and coasters are a favorite gift item here.
Area restaurants include: Genghas Khan (daily special fix price 22,000 TL,
Pineapple, Pizza Express, La Boheme, Yakamoz and India-China Town.
ATAKULE (TOWER)
A huge (but slightly pricey) mall located at the top of Cinnah Cad. Shops
meet most of your needs and a variety of eateries. Underground parking is
available. Leather and suede shops, sporting good stores, American sneakers,
gift store, delightful Turkish dolls, toy stores and camera shops. American
style donut shop, Pizza Hut (the real thing), Cafe Chino, cappaccino 5000 TL.
CINNAH CAD.
Gallery Z, Cinnah Cad. and Kirkpinar No. 5/A. Ask for Fatma. Many gift items
available. Copper enamel painted christmas balls, Santa kilims, purses,
pottery-ware. Stop at the Berliner Kauffehaus for a snack.
-4-
SH-5/91
BALGAT
Near the Ankara Air Station, visit "Cheap Charlie's" and "The Shepherd". They
offer just about every gift item on the economy at just a fraction above the
others. The convenience makes it worth the extra cost. You miss the fun of
finding your way around town, but in a pinch, you'll be glad they are there to
serve you. Returning from Balgat, don't forget that the "Tea House", located
on Kuzgun Sok. 74/A is nearby and offers weekly specials and Flamenco Guitar
entertainment Saturday evenings from 5.30 to 7:00 pm.
A&S Bazaar has a concession store in the lobby of the BX at Base. Ask for
Atilla.
Sultan Pipe Shop also has a concession store in the same area.
HOSDERE CAD.
New Horizons
Hosdere Cad., Y. Ayranci 138/C
Owned and operated by Suzy Hanson features a large selection
of Turkish dolls, costume and clothing, copper and brass.
FARABI SOK. AREA
Baki Gallery
Farabi Sok., 19 Çankaya
Selections of all Turkish handicrafts.
Elsan
Farabi Sokak 13/1, Çankaya
A variety of gift items and a fair selection of towels and leather.
Hoca
Farabi Sokak, Çankaya 24/1
Good selection of handicrafts, copper, brass, small carpets.
Murat
Farabi Sokak 25/1
Excellent selection of Turkish handicrafts and quality carpets.
Possibly the best one stop shop for the hurried shopper.
Sultan Supermarket is located at the Farabi shopping area. Sultan carry many
imported products. They feature an excellent butcher shop with pork products
and a fine selection of wines, cheeses and lunchmeat products.
-5-
SH-5/91
ULUS
The Ulus area of old Ankara offers shopping in a more "rustic" atmosphere. If
you have the time and inclination, head the taxi driver in the direction of
Salmanpazari. You may ask to be dropped off at the "Et Pazar" at the top of
Ulus and walk down through the variety of shops. The Et Pazar is an open-air
food market offering a variety of dried fruits, pastas, spices, nuts and
fish. From Et Pazar you can wind your way down the streets easily to Salman
Sokak (Copper Alley). Wander around and look for all the small little junk
stores with their "antiques".
Ulus is the home of "Copper Alley", Salman Sokak. If you want a particular
piece of copper, this is the place to begin your search. GALERI ESKI ANKARA
located at Salmanpazari Salman Sokak 58, KERVAN BAKIR, No. 35, ask for Burhan,
and ABDULLAH GÜVER, no. 52. These are just a few of the many shops on this
street. Comparison shop! Most people have their personnal favorites. Ask to
see the CLO's reproduced Ankara Scene article entitled: "Strolling through
Copper Ally".
SARK HALICI is in Ulus. It is the largest carpet shop in Ankara, fun to just
look. They have carpets from all over the world. Unless, you know your
carpets and their value, we suggest you just window during for your first
visit here.
Restaurants include: Kale and Zengar both converted old turkish houses,
located just near the museum and open on Sundays. Try Uludag Kebapci for the
most famous and the tastiest "Iskender" in Ankara.
MUSEUMS IN ULUS
Anatolian Civilizations
Kadife Sokak, Ankara Castle (Hisar)
Open daily except Mondays
8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5.30
Gift store.
State Painting and Sculpture
Opera Geçidi, Turk Ocagi, Ulus
Open daily except Mondays
8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5:30
Ethnographic Museum
Opera Geçidi, Turk Ocagi, Ulus
Open daily except Mondays
8:30 - 12:30 and 1.30 - 5:30
Gift store.
Roman Baths
Open daily except Mondays
8:30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5:30
Ankara Castle
Open daily
8.30 - 12:30 and 1:30 - 5.30
-6-
SH-5/91
RESTAURANTS IN ANKARA
Restaurants for every taste and budget exist in Ankara. The following is
just a partial listing of the many restaurants to be found by the
discriminating diner. We suggest you make reservations, many restaurants
require them.
Biz
Hatir Sokak, 4
136 20 00
Elegant restaurant featuring continental cuisine, expensive.
Gengizkan
Koroglu Cad. 37/A
137 5101
Chinese specialities, fix price lunch 22,000 TL-good!
Kale Restaurant
Berrak Sok. No. 9 (ULUS)
311-19 45
Charming converted house near museum area. Rooftop dining.
Kanyon
Hosdere Cad. 193-A
138 09 08
Good steak house near Çankaya Tower, cook your own!
Kara Deniz Lokantasi
Karanfil Sok. 11/A Sakarya
118 02 57
Good traditional Turkish food. Lovely garden in the summer.
La Boheme
Koroglü Cad. 96/A
137 58 74
Continental cuisine, nice atmosphere. Reservations suggested.
Ask for Elgin, popular spot with all foreigners.
Bordeaux
Hatir Sok. 14
137 9794
French fare, new restaurant owned by Elgin of LaBoheme.
Ask for the Embassy discount.
RV
Atatürk Bulvari 243/D
127-03 76
Elegant continental cuisine.
Somine
Dosteil Sok. 4
137 80 60
Lovely fireplace in winter.
Uludag Kebapcisi
Denizciler Cad. No. 51 (ULUS) 312-45 65
Iskender Kebap.
the best in town! A must!
Washington
Bayindir Sok. 28, Kizilay
117 12 60
Good food, nice lunch spot. Piano music nightly.
Winehouse
Bogaz Sok. 20
167-65 12
Features imported and domestic cheeses and wines.
Nice atmosphere.
Yakamoz
Koroğlu Cad. 38
136 09 03
Well-known fish restaurant.
Yunus
26/A Ahmet Mithat Effendi Sok.
Italian Restaurant
Zenger Paşa
Doyran Sok. No. 13 (ULUS)
311-70 70
Great fun! Converted old house near the museum area.
-7-
5/91
FAST FOOD AND SNACKS
Ambrosia
Nenehatun Cad. & Sairler Sok. 9/A
Sandwiches and snacks, free delivery service
146-4416
Berliner Kaffeehaus
Cinnah Cad/Ahenk Sok 7/13
140 51 32
German cakes and a variety of coffees.
Casablanca
Koroğlu Cad. 37
137 55 52
Nice bar with snacks.
McDonald's
Atatürk Bulvari, Kizilay
Authentic American fast food.
Pineapple
Koroglu Cad. 64/B
146 53 27
Relaxed atmosphere, varied menu. Casual lunch/dinner.
Pizza Hut
Ataküle/Çankaya Tower
140 78 10
Pizza Pino
Tunalii Hilmi Cad. 111/2
168 44 62
All types of pizza. Friendly service.
Pizza Villa
Bogaz Sokak 13
127 28 24
Pizza and more. Nice garden setting in the summer.
NIGHT SPOTS
Marilyn Monroe Pizza
Tunalii Hilmi Cad.
F-34
Farabi Sok. No. 34
Jacqui's Disco
Hilton Hotel
Useful vocabulary for restaurant patrons
bill
hesap
meat
et
bread
ekmek
salad
salata
breakfast
kahvatlı
soup
çorba
chicken
tavuk
turkey
hindi
dessert
tatlı
vegetable
sebze
dinner
akşam yemegi
beer
bira
fish
balik
tea
çay
fruit
meyva
wine
șarap
lunch
oğle yemeği
coffee
kahve
gin
cin
whiskey
viski
-8-
SH-5/91
BEAUTY SALONS
Kuaför Sunshine (Zeki Sener)
Cinnah Caddesi 31/A Çankaya
167 99 65
Resit Galip/Ilkadim Sokak 9/B, GOP
136 22 72
Violette Kuaför (Zeki)
Farabi Sokak 4/2 Çankaya
126 58 07
Kuaför Resat (Resat)
Mahatma Ghandi Cad. 46/B, GOP
136 17 52
A&H (Ali & Hussein)
Hilton International Hotel
Ask for the Ankara resident card.
126 06 22
Orhan Özkeskin
Vali Dr. Reşit Sol. No. 15/C
138 70 36 (off Cinnah)
Tahiti (Ahmet)
Çankaya Cad. 2/1, Çankaya
138 88 16
Red & White
Kuleli Sok. 87/B, GOP Near Pinar Market
146 23 23
Emine Baysoy
Attar Sok. 11/2 - 126 16 45
Leg and body waxing salon, pedicure and manicure available.
Beauty Salon &
Ankara Air Station 125-9943
Barber Shop
Tuesday thru Saturday
-9-
SH-5/91