Ask the Scholar

Document scope · 1 page
doc
Scholar
Ask about this object, its catalog metadata, its source description, or the page inventory. For page-specific OCR and visual context, open one of the page chats.

Scholar Source Context

Document identity
localId
323153640
label
The Hague 11/9/91 [OA 7564] [5]
core
doc
dtoType
document
pageCount
1
Source metadata
Source extras
naId
323153640
levelOfDescription
fileUnit
recordType
description
ocrSource
nara-archive
Single page context
seq
1
pageIndex
0
type
document
mediaId
534d47802ec22f5a
ocrText
Originally Processed With FOIA(s): FOIA Number: S S FOIA MARKER This is not a textual record. This is used as an administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential Library Staff. Record Group/Collection: George H.W. Bush Presidential Records Collection/Office of Origin: Speechwriting, White House Office of Series: Speech File Backup Files Subseries: Chron File, 1989-1993 OA/ID Number: 13779 Folder ID Number: 13779-009 Folder Title: The Hague 11/9/91 [OA 7564] [5] Stack: Row: Section: Shelf: Position: G 26 21 7 4 background notes Netherlands United States Department of State September 1987 Bureau of Public Affairs 4 PROFILE Party (VVD), Democrats '66 (D'66). other minor parties. Suffrage: Universal over 18. Geography Defense (1987): 3.2% of GNP. Flag: Three horizontal stripes-red. white Area: 41.473 sq. km. (16,464 sq. mi.). Cities: and blue. from top to bottom. North DENMARK Capital-Amsterdam (pop. 687,450). Others- Sea The Hague-seat of government (pop. Economy 449,350); Rotterdam, principal port (pop. 558.850); Utrecht (pop. 231,750). Terrain: GNP (1987): $189.8 billion: 1986, $173.4 NETHERLANDS UNITED Coastal lowland. Climate: Northern billion. Annual growth rate (1987): 1.5% KINGDOM maritime. (est.). Per capita income (1987): $13,065; Amsterdam FED. 1986, $11,958. Avg. inflation rate (1986-87): REP. People - 1.0%; 1985-86, 0%. of GER Natural resource: Natural gas. Nationality: Noun-Dutchmen and Dutch- Agriculture (4.1% of Net National women. Adjective-Dutch. Ethnic groups: Income (NNI)): Products-wheat, barley, oats. Predominantly Dutch: largest minority com- sugar beets, fruits, potatoes, poultry. Official Name: munities are Moroccans. Turks. Surinamese, Industry (18.7% of NNI): Types-steel. Kingdom of the Netherlands and Indonesians. Religions: Roman Catholic. metal products. electronics, bulk chemicals. Protestant. nonaffiliated, and other. natural gas. Language: Dutch. Education: Years Trade (1985): Exports-$67.9 billion: compulsory-10. Attendance-nearly 100%. mineral fuels, chemical products, machinery Literacy-98%. Health: Infant mortality and transport equipment. foodstuffs. rate-6/1.000. Life expectancy-76 yrs. (males, Imports-$64.9 billion: mineral fuels and 73 yrs.; females, 79 yrs.). Work force (1985): crude petroleum, machinery, chemical prod- 6.0 million. Agriculture-1.4%. Trade-17.0%. ucts, foodstuffs. Major trade partners-FRG, Industry-29.5%. Services-44.9%. Of the Belgium, Luxembourg, France, UK. US. above total, government-23.3% of the work Official exchange rate (May 1987): 2.01 force. Dutch guilders=USS1. Development aid sent (0.91% of 1986 Government GNP): $1.3 billion. Type: Parliamentary democracy under a con- stitutional monarch. Constitution: 1814 and Membership in International Organizations 1848. Branches: Executive-monarch (chief of UN, North Atlantic Treaty Organization state), prime minister (head of government), (NATO), European Community (EC), Cabinet. Legislative-Bicameral Parliament Organization for Economic Cooperation and (First and Second Chambers). Judicial- Development (OECD), International Energy Supreme Court. Agency (IEA). International Atomic Energy Subdivisions: 12 provinces. Agency (IAEA), European Monetary System. Political parties: Christian Democratic BENELUX Economic Union. European Appeal (CDA). Labor Party (PvdA). Liberal Space Agency (ESA), INTELSAT. Western European Union. others. 0 5 6 7 NETHERLANDS International boundary € National capital Railroad Road WEST FRISIAN SCHIERMONK ISLANDS DOG + International airport AMELAND Emden TERSCHELLING VLIELAND Leeuwarden o 5 10 20 30 Miles Groningen Harlingen o 5 10 20 30 Kilometers TEXEL 53 53- Den Helder Assen IJSSELMEER Emmen: Enkhuizen NORTH Emlichheim SEA Vecht Zwolle Haariem: AMSTERDAM + Deventer Hengelo Hilversum Apeldoorn Enschede Leiden The Hague Utrecht Delft Jissel 52 Arntrem FEDERAL Hoek van Holland 52 EUROPOORT Rotterdam Lek Tiel Nederrijn REPUBLIC Nijmegen OF Waat Emmerich Dordrecht GERMANY Mads S Hertogenbosch Oosters Breda chelde Middelburg Tilburg sonw Essen Westerschelde Eindhoven Venfo, Duisburg Düsseldorf Antwerp Mönchen- Gladbach Gent B E1G1U M 51 Cologns Maastricht Schelde BRUSSELS Aachen BONN Liège SOUNDARY REPRESENTATION IS 4 NOT NECESSARILY AUTHORITATIVE 5 ... 6 7 2 Willem V of Orange. The Beigians GEOGRAPHY withdrew from the union in 1830 to form The Netherlands is bordered by the their own kingdom. Willem I abdicated in favor of Willem II in 1840. Willem II North Sea. Belgium. and the Federal Republic of Germany. The country is low was largely responsible for the liberaliz- and flat except in the southeast. where ing revision of the constitution in 1848. some hills rise to 304 meters (1.000 ft.) The Netherlands prospered during above sea level. Because roughly one- the long reign of Willem III (1849-90). half of the land is below sea level. The At the time of his death. his daughter. Wilhelmina. was 10 years old. Her Dutch have had to build their famous dikes to reclaim land from the sea. mother. Queen Emma. reigned as regent until 1898 when Wilhelmina reached the The warmest weather occurs between June and September: the other age of 18 and became the monarch. 8 months are cool or cold. Except for Although the Netherlands was neutral during World War I and again occasional warm spells in summer, temperatures rarely exceed 24 °C proclaimed neutrality at the start of World War II. German troops overran (75 °F). Winters are long, and the damp cold from the North Sea can be the country in May 1940. Queen Wilhelmina, Crown Princess Juliana. and penetrating. The Netherlands is still often called their families fled to London and Holland. which was the largest Dutch established a government-in-exile; Crown Princess Juliana and her province and incorporated the country's daughters continued on to Canada. three largest and most prosperous cities-Amsterdam. The Hague, and Rot- where they remained until 1945. In terdam. The original province is divided September 1944, U.S. forces par- into Noord-Holland and Zuid-Holland. ticipated in the liberation of the southern Netherlands. However. the German Army in the rest of the Netherlands did not surrender until May 5, 1945. The PEOPLE Queen and Crown Princess returned to The Dutch are primarily of Germanic the Netherlands shortly thereafter. stock with some Gallo-Celtic mixture. Queen Juliana succeeded to the throne in They have clung tenaciously to their 1948 upon her mother's abdication. In small homeland against the constant Binnehof buildings, The Hague: A 13th- April 1980, Queen Juliana abdicated in threat of destruction by the North Sea century palace housing both chambers of favor of her daughter, who is now Queen and recurrent invasions by the great the legislature. Beatrix. The Netherlands' once far-flung European powers. Religion influences Dutch history, empire has been granted full indepen- society, institutions, and attitudes and is HISTORY dence or nearly complete autonomy since the end of World War II. Indonesia for- closely related to political life, though to a diminishing degree. The right of every Julius Caesar found the Netherlands mally gained its independence from the individual to religious freedom is inhabited by Germanic tribes, one of Netherlands in 1949. Suriname became guaranteed by the constitution. which. the Batavi. did not submit to independent in 1975. The five islands of Rome until 13 B.C., and then only as an the Netherlands Antilles (Curacao, Although church and state are separate. a few historical ties remain-the royal ally. A part of Charlemagne's empire in Bonair, Saba, St. Eustatius, and a part family belongs to the Dutch Reformed the 8th century A.D., the area later of St. Maarten) are integral parts of the Church (Protestant). passed into the hands of the House of Netherlands realm but enjoy a large The arts have played a major role in Burgundy and the Austrian Hapsburgs. degree of autonomy. On January 1, the development and representation of Falling under harsh Spanish rule in the 1986, Aruba. which had been a part of Dutch culture. The works of Old 16th century, the Dutch revolted in the Netherlands Antilles, was granted a Masters. including Rembrandt and Hals. 1558, under the leadership of Willem of separate status within the Kingdom on and later artists, such as Mondriaan and Orange. By virtue of the Union of par with but apart from the other five Van Gogh, are on display in museums Utrecht in .1579, the seven northern islands. (For more information. see throughout the Netherlands. The Dutch provinces became the Republic of Background Notes on Netherlands government strongly supports artists, the United Netherlands. Antilles.) sculptors, and architects and attempts to During the 17th century, considered use their works in public projects its "golden era," the Netherlands whenever possible. The Amsterdam Con- became a great sea and colonial power. GOVERNMENT certgebouw Orchestra and the Resident Its importance declined, however, after Philharmonics in The Hague and Rotter- wars with Spain and France in the 18th The present constitution dates from dam enjoy excellent international reputa- century. In 1795, French troops ousted 1848 and has been amended a number of tions. The Netherlands active intellec- Willem V of Orange, the Stadhouder times. The government is based on the tual life is stimulated by lively political under the Dutch Republic and head of principles of ministerial responsibility satire and a counterculture and is sus- the House of Orange. and parliamentary government common tained by prestigious universities. Following Napoleon's defeat in 1813. to most constitutional monarchies in the Netherlands and Belgium became the "Kingdom of the United Nether- lands" under King Willem I. son of although there can be ministers without Courts Travel Notes portfolio. The ministers. collectively and The judiciary comprises 62 cantonal individually. are responsible to the courts. 19 district courts. 5 courts of Parliament. Unlike the British system. Clothing: Clothing needs are similar to those appeal. and a Supreme Court (24 of Washington. DC. but the Netheriands Dutch ministers cannot simultaneously Justices). All judicial appointments are climate is cooler in the summer. milder in the be members of Parliament. made by the Monarch. Judges are winter. and has more rain. i.e. a climate nominally appointed for life but in fact similar to that of Seattle. Washington. Council of State are retired at age 70. Currency: Currency unit is the Dutch guilder (Fl.); foreign exchange control regulations A constitutionally established advisory body to the government. the Council of Administrative Divisions place no limit on the amount of foreign cur- rency or negotiable instruments that may be State consists of members of the Royal The first-level administrative divisions imported. Family and Crown-appointed members are the 12 provinces. each governed by a Health: Medical facilities are good. Commu- generally having political. commercial. locally elected provincial council and a nity sanitation is comparable to standards in diplomatic. or military experience. The Council of State must be consulted by provincial executive appointed by US cities. members of the provincial council. The the cabinet on proposed legislation Telecommunications: Facilities are good for province is formally headed by a Queen's before a law is submitted to Parliament. local and long-distance use. Amsterdam and commissioner appointed by the national The Council of State also serves as a The Hague are six time zones ahead of eastern standard time. channel of appeal for citizens against government. executive branch decisions. Transportation: Good public transportation Principal Government Officials by bus and streetcar is available in the cities and serves principal sectors of the city as well States General (Parliament) Monarch-Queen Beatrix as the suburbs. Most Dutch cities are con- nected by rail. and almost all regions of the The Dutch Parliament (also called the Council of Ministers Netherlands are accessible by good public "States General") consists of two Prime Minister and Minister of General transportation. Excellent transportation to houses: the First Chamber and the Affairs-Ruud F. M. Lubbers. other principal European cities also is Second Chamber. Historically. Dutch Christian Democrats (CDA) available. The main international airport is at governments have been based on the Deputy Prime,Minister and Economic Schiphol. near Amsterdam. but a few interna- support of a majority in both houses of Affairs-Rudolf de Korte. Liberals tional flights also arrive at Rotterdam and Parliament. (VVD) Maastricht Airports. The Second Chamber is by far the Foreign Affairs-Hans van den Broek more important of the two houses. It (CDA) alone has the right to initiate legislation Finance-Herman O. C. R. Ruding and amend bills submitted by the Council (CDA) Western Europe. It is composed of three of Ministers and shares with the First Defense-Willem van Eekelen (VVD) basic institutions: Chamber the right to question ministers Development Cooperation-Piet Bukman The crown (monarch, Council of and state secretaries. (CDA) Ministers, and Council of State); The Second Chamber consists of 150 Social Affairs and Employment The States General (Parliament); members, directly elected for a 4-year (Netherlands Antilles)-Jan de and term (unless the government falls Koning (CDA) The Courts. prematurely) on the basis of a nation- Home Affairs-Cees van Dijk (CDA) wide system of proportional representa- Justice-Frederik Korthals Altes (VVD) tion. This system means that members Agriculture and Fisheries-Gerrit J. M. The Monarch represent the whole country, rather than Braks (CDA) The monarch is the titular head of state individual districts as in the United Education and Sciences-Wim J. of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It is, States. and are generally elected on a Deetman (CDA) however, the Council of Ministers party slate. not on a personal basis. It Transport and Waterways-Mrs. Neelie (cabinet), not the Queen, that is respon- also makes it difficult for any one party Smit-Kroes (VVD) sible for government policy. The Queen's to win an absolute majority, producing a Housing, Physical Planning and function is largely ceremonial. but she tradition of coalition government in the Environment-Ed Nijpels (VVD) does have some influence deriving from Netherlands. Elections for the Second Ambassador to the United States- the traditional veneration of the House Chamber were most recently held in Richard Fein of Orange (from which Dutch monarchs May 1986. New elections are not con- Ambassador to the United Nations- for more than three centuries have been stitutionally required until 1990. Adriaan Jacobovits de Szegd chosen), the personal qualities of Queen The First Chamber is composed of Beatrix and Queen Juliana before her, 75 members elected for 4-year terms by The Netherlands maintains an and the power to appoint the formateur. the 12 provincial legislatures. It cannot embassy in the United States at 4200 who is charged with the formation of a initiate or amend legislation, but its Linnean Avenue NW., Washington, D.C. Council of Ministers following elections. approval of bills passed by the Second 20008 (tel. 202-244-5300). Consulates Chamber is required before bills become general are in Chicago. Houston. Los The Council of Ministers law. The First Chamber generally meets Angeles, New York City, and San only once a week. and its members Francisco. The Council of Ministers is responsible usually have other full-time jobs. The for the formulation and implementation last First Chamber elections were held of government policy. Most ministers in June 1987. also head government ministries. 4 27299- EGEL 888 Madurodam. the famous miniature city in The Hague. POLITICAL CONDITIONS and the Liberals. The social democratic- occupies the political center among the oriented Labor Party generally has been Four principal groups-Catholics, Prot- major Dutch political parties. It supports in opposition. except between 1973-77 estants. Labor. and Liberais-form the free enterprise and NATO membership and twice briefly (April 1965 to October historical basis for the three main and holds to the principle that govern- 1966 and September 1981 to May 1982). ment activity should supplement but not political parties. Because of the Dutch The current government formed in supplant communal action by citizens. system of proportional representation. July 1986 is a center-right coalition of The CDA sees its philosophy as between no one party has gained an absolute the Christian Democratic (CDA) and the "individualism" of the Liberals and majority in Parliament in recent times. Liberal (VVD) parties headed by Prime the "statism" of the Labor Party. The This has resulted in coalition govern- Minister Ruud Lubbers of the CDA. The CDA won 54 seats in the May 1986 ments that pursue generally centrist government has the support of 81 of the parliamentary elections. This represents policies. although there are swings in 150 members of the Second Chamber. the party's strongest showing since the political approach depending on whether Nine political parties are currently CDA first ran a common slate of can- a center-left or center-right government represented in the Second Chamber, didates in 1977. is in power. with the four largest parties holding 142 Labor Party (PvdA). The PvdA is From the end of World War II until of the 150 seats. December 1958. the Netherlands was the most left-wing of the three major Christian Democrats (CDA). The parties. Labor has 52 seats in the cur- governed by a series of coalitions built Christian Democratic Party was formed rent Second Chamber and is thus the on a Labor-Catholic base. Since 1958. from a merger of the Catholic People's second largest party after the CDA. It is governments have been formed primar- Party (KVP) and two Protestant parties. ily from a center-right coalition of the currently in the parliamentary opposi- the Anti-Revolutionary Party (ARP) and tion, and has been for 8 of the last 9 Christian Democrats (or the one Catholic the Christian-Historical Union (CHU). years. The PvdA is a European social and two Protestant parties from which The merger process. begun in the early the Christian Democrats were formed) democratic party. The party's program 1970s to attempt to stem the tide of is based on greater social. political, and losses suffered by religiously based par- economic equality for all citizens. ties. was completed in 1980. The CDA 5 In 1959. the vast Siochteren gas Composition of the States General field in Groningen Province began pro- duction and is now one of the world's First Chamber Seats Second Chamber Seats largest producing natural gas fields. In addition. the Netherlands also dis- Christian Democratic Christian Democratic covered gas on the North Sea's continen Appeal 26 Appeal 54 tal shelf. At present. total natural gas Labor Party 26 Labor Party 52 reserves (mainland and North Sea) Liberal Party 12 Liberal Party 27 amount to 1.9 trillion cubic meters. The Democrats '66 5 Democrats 66 ! Political Reformed Political Reformed reserves of other Dutch gas fields. Party 1 Party 3 including the Dutch North Sea sector. Political Party Political Party total about 18% of those of Slochteren. of the Radicals 1 of the Radicals 2 Current gas production is running annu- Pacifist Socialist Pacifist Socialist ally at about 80 billion cubic meters, half Party 1 Party 1 of which is exported to EC member Communist Party 1 countries. General government revenues Reformed Political Reformed Political from natural gas totaled about $8.7 Confederation 1 Confederation 1 Reformed Political Reformed Political billion in 1986 and accounted for more Alliance 1 Alliance 1 than 14% of total government revenue. dropping to $3.8 billion in 1987 (6% of Total seats 75 Total seats 150 revenue). Dutch economic growth in the last several years has been limited by the although in recent years the party has ECONOMY world's general economic slowdown. After an average 2% growth in 1984-86. begun to debate to what extent the cen- tral government should be the vehicle The Dutch economy is based on private real growth in 1987 is estimated at 1.5%. Inflation reached 2.5% in 1985. for accomplishing these goals. The PvdA enterprise. The government has little stabilized at 0% in 1986. and is supports Dutch NATO membership but direct ownership or participation. but it is critical of many alliance policies. par- heavily influences the economy. with forecast to drop to a negative 1% in more than 45% of the gross national 1987. The Netherlands' balance-of-pay- ticularly regarding nuclear weapons. and ments current account has been in remains firmly opposed to the deploy- product (GNP) involved in its operations ment of cruise weapons in the and social programs (including transfer strong surplus in recent years because of payments). Government at all levels improved export competitiveness. earn- Netherlands. Liberals (VVD). The VVD is makes its presence felt through the ings from gas. and depressed internal demand. "liberal" in the European. rather than many regulations and permit require- American, sense of the word. It thus ments pertaining to almost every aspect attaches great importance to private of economic activity. enterprise and the freedom of the indi- Services, which account for half of FOREIGN RELATIONS vidual in political, social. and economic the national income, are primarily in affairs. The VVD is generally seen as the transport and financial areas. such as The Netherlands pursued a neutralist most conservative of the major parties. banking and insurance. Industrial activ- foreign policy for much of its modern It is a solid supporter of most NATO ity provides about 19% of the national history. This neutrality. however. was policies. The VVD has been the junior income and is dominated by the abandoned after World War II. and the partner in a governing coalition with the metalworking. oil refining, chemical. and Dutch saw the Western alliance as the CDA since 1982. After registering large food-processing industries. Construction best means to ensure security and pro- gains in 1982 national elections. the amounts to about 6% of the national mote national interests. The postwar VVD was the major loser in the 1986 income. Agriculture and fishing. Netherlands governments have pursued voting, dropping from 36 to 27 seats in although visible and traditional Dutch an active, engaged foreign policy in the Second Chamber. activities, account for a little more many areas of the world. Democrats ''66 (D'66). The largest than 4%. In addition to pursuit of national of the "small" parties in the Dutch Foreign trade heavily influences the interests. Dutch foreign policy in recent Parliament. the electoral fortunes of open Dutch economy. with exports years has been rooted in several impor- D'66 have fluctuated widely since the accounting for 62% of GNP. The tant principles. which include the promo- Netherlands finds a liberal commercial tion of peace and security in Europe and. party's founding in 1966. Its current nine seats roughly reflect the historical policy advantageous and participates as where possible. in other areas of the average of the party's showing over the a charter member in the European Com- world. support for the development of last 20 years. D'66 is a center-left party munity (EC), the BENELUX Economic the Third World. and respect for inter- (generally portrayed as between the Union, and the European Monetary national law and human rights. System. It is a firm supporter of the The Netherlands seeks to advance CDA and PvdA), with its strongest sup- port among young. urban. professional General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade many of its foreign policy objectives voters. D'66 is currently in the (GATT) and is a subscriber to the suc- through multilateral cooperation. Its parliamentary opposition. cessful conclusion of the multilateral security policy is based upon member- trade negotiations in establishing freer ship in NATO. Economic and trade and expanded world trade. policy is closely coordinated through the EC and. to a lesser extent. other inter- national bodies. such as the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Develop- ment. GATT. and the International Monetary Fund. 6 Further Information These titles are provided as a general indica- tion of the material published on this country. The Department of State does not endorse unofficial publications. Baena. Duke of. The Dutch Puzzic. The Hague: L.J.C. Boucher. 1975 (fifth ed.). Bailey. Anthony. The Light in Holland. New York: Alfred A. Knopf. 1970. Devries. Johan. The Netheriands Economy In The Twentieth Century. Atlantic Highlands. N.J.: The Humanities Press. 1978. Everts. Philip (ed.). Controversies at Home: Domestic Factors in the Foreign Policy of the Netherlands. Boston/Dordrecht: M. Nijhoff. 1985. Hart. Maarten. Bearers of Bad Tidings. Allison & Busby. 1985. Huggett. Frank. The Modern Netherlands. New York: Praeger. 1971. Leurdijk. J.H. (ed.). The Foreign Policy of the Netherlands. Alphen aan den Rijn: Sijthoff and Noordhoff. 1978. Lijphart. Arend. The Politics of Accommoda- tion: Pluralism and Democracy in the Netherlands. Berkeley: University of California Press. 1968. Meijer. Reinder P. Literature of the Low Countries. M. Nijhoff. 1978. Mulisch. Harry. The Assault. Pantheon. 1985. Newton. Gerald. The Netherlands: An Historical and Cultural Survey. 1795-1977. London: Ernest Benn Ltd., 1978. Nooteboom. Cees. Rituals. Louisiana State University Press. 1983. Nordholt. J.W. Schulte and Swierenga. Robert. A Bilateral Bicentennial: A History of Dutch-American Relations. 1782-1982. Amsterdam: Meulenhoff. 1982. The Hague: Cyclists relax in front of the Peace Palace. which also houses the International Schetter. W.Z. The Pillars of Society: Six Court of Justice. Centuries of Civilization in the Netherlands. The Hague: M. Nijhoff. 1971. Other foreign policy interests Africa. and Central America). The Dutch Snellen. I.Th.M. (ed.). Limits of Government: generally take into account consultations also contribute large amounts of aid Dutch Experiences. Amsterdam: Kobra within European Political Cooperation. through multilateral channels (32% or Publishers. 1985. the political consultation process of the $373 million). especially the UN Develop- Terlouw. Jan. Winter In Wartime. McGraw EC. The Netherlands also is a member ment Program (10%), International Hill. 1976. of the BENELUX group (Belgium. Development Association (7%). and EC Voorhoeve. Joris. Peace. Profits and Prin- Netherlands. Luxembourg). Finally, the programs (8%). Some aid funds are chan- ciples: A Study of Dutch Foreign Policy. nelled through private ("cofinancing") Dordrecht/Boston: M. Nijhoff. 1979. Netherlands is an active and responsible participant in the United Nations and its organizations that have almost total affiliated organizations. autonomy in choice of projects. The Netherlands is a strong pro- The Netherlands has relations with tional and regional organizations to fur- ponent of North-South cooperation and all communist countries except North ther free trade, economic cooperation, maintains an impressive development Korea. and assistance to developing countries. assistance program. Aid commitments are fixed by law at 1.5% of net national income. although actual disbursements U.S.-DUTCH RELATIONS DEFENSE have not always reached that level in recent years. Bilateral aid (68% of total The excellent relations between the The defense structure of the Nether- aid) is focused on 10 concentration coun- United States and the Netherlands are lands comprises the Ministry of Defense tries (Bangladesh. Egypt. India. based on close historical and cultural ties and the various branches of the armed Indonesia. Kenya. North Yemen. and a common dedication to the security forces-the Royal Netherlands Navy, the Pakistan. Sudan. Sri Lanka. Tanzania) of the Western world. An outward- Royal Netherlands Army. the Royal and three geographic regions requiring looking nation. the Netherlands works Netherlands Air Force. and the Royal special attention (the Sahel. Southern with the United States bilaterally and in Netherlands Military Constabulary the United Nations and other interna- 7 (Marechaussee). Political responsibility Air Force weapons systems are primar- The U.S. Embassy is located at for the defense of the Netherlands lies ily fighter aircraft and surface-to-air Lange Voorhout 102. 2514 EJ The with the Minister of Defense and a State guided weapons. Hague (tel. 070-62-49-11). The Con- Secretary. sulate general is at Museumplein 13. The Royal Netheriands Armed Principal U.S. Officials 1071 DJ Amsterdam Forces (RNAF) have a total peacetime (tel. 020-790-321). personnel strengh of about 123,000 Ambassador-John S.R. Shad military and civilians. The services are Deputy Chief of Mission-John H. Rouse currently engaged in an ambitious force Political Counselor-Alan R. McKee Published by the United States Department of State Bureau of Public Affairs Office modernization program outlined in the Economic Counselor-David P. Rehfuss of Public Communication Editorial Divi- 1987-96 defense procurement plan. Administrative Counselor-Johny sion Washington. D.C. September 1987 The main mission of the Royal Young Editor: Juanita Adams Netherlands Army is the defense of a Commercial Counselor-Harrison B. section of the North German plain. The Sherwood Department of State Publication 7967 Public Affairs Counselor-William Background Notes Series army is introducing new weapons This material is systems, with the accent on antiarmor La Salle in the public domain and may be reproduced without permission: citation of this source and air defense. The Royal Netherlands Defense and Naval Attache-Capt. would be appreciated. Navy is composed of escort ships, sub- Roger E. Carlson marines, maritime patrol aircraft. Army Attache-Col. Lance J. Burton For sale by the Superintendent of Docu- helicopters, a mine countermeasure Air Attache-Col. Frederick M. Banks ments. U.S. Government Printing Office. force, and a Marine Corps. as well as the Agriculture Counselor-John E. Montel Washington, D.C. 20402 necessary supporting elements. Priority Chief, Office of Defense Cooperation- is given to antisubmarine warfare, with Col. Robert G. Hanus. USAF increasing emphasis on air defense and Country Attache-Narcotics-William J. surface warfare. The Royal Netherlands Wolf Customs Attache-James W. Wilkie Consul General. Amsterdam-Jake M. Dyels 8 HOLLAND information for WELCOME COME visitors and newly arrived personnel PREPARED BY THE AMERICAN EMBASSY THE HAGUE, NETHERLANDS VISITORS THE AMERICAN EMBASSY WELCOMES YOU TO HOLLAND AND HOPES THAT YOUR VISIT HERE WILL BE A PLEASANT ONE. TABLE OF.CONTENTS Page WELCOME TO HOLLAND; WHOM TO CALL IN AN EMERGENCY 3 MONEY 4 RESTAURANTS 5. SHOPPING and BUSINESS HOURS 7 OUTDOOR MARKETS 10 CLOTHING SIZE CONVERSION GUIDE 11 MAIL SERVICES 12 WHERE YOU ARE; WHERE YOU WANT TO BE; HOW TO GET THERE 13 HINTS FOR DRIVING IN THE NETHERLANDS 14 ENTERTAINMENT 15 PLACES OF INTEREST TO VISITORS 16 CHURCHES 21 ENGLISH-LANGUAGE BROADCASTS 23 OUTLINE OF U.S. MISSION THE HAGUE 25 - 5 WELCOME TO HOLLAND!! This booklet is for your convenience during your visit to The Hague. Your Welcome Kit contains additional information including tourist brochures about places you might want to visit. Please feel free to ask the staff of the Administrative Office (Ext. 271) or the Community Liaison Office (Ext. 274) for any additional assistance. WHOM TO CALL IN AN EMERGENCY A Marine Guard is always on duty when the Embassy is closed. He can reach the Embassy Duty Officer in an emergency. Dial 62.49.11. When dialing from outside The Hague dial 070-62.49.11. EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police (alarm) 222222 Police-station The Hague (general) 104911 Fire Station 222333 Ambulance 222111 Physician (night service) 469669 Veterinary surgeon 255907 Dentist (day, night, weekend) 974491 Pharmacies (from 5:30 pm on and on the weekend) 451000 Pharmacies Pharmacies, "Apotheek" in Dutch, sell only prescription medicines and related products. They take turns providing night and Sunday services. In emergencies you may obtain this information from the Police. (For The Hague call 22.22.22.) TELEPHONING How to Use the Local Telephone Directory For calls in The Netherlands consult page 14 of any Telephone Directory on how to use the directory and to make a call; first dial the area code (city), wait to hear a high uninterrupted buzzing, then dial the number of the subscriber. If no area code is listed, dial 008 for information. For Information: To obtain numbers not listed in the telephone book or those which have been changed within The Netherlands, dial 008 for information - 6-- MONEY The Netherlands currency is based on the guilder ("gulden" in Dutch). It is abbreviated "F1." or "Dfl" for florin derived from the French because the coins originally had a floral pattern. The exchange rate fluctuates from day to day. The guilder consists of 100 Dutch cents, 5 cents (the coin called a "stuiver"); 10 cents (the coin called a "dubbeltje"); and 25 cents (the coin called a "kwartje"). There is also a one guilder, two-and-half guilder piece (a "Rijksdaalder," worth two guilders and fifty cents) and a five guilder piece. The paper currency is issued in five, ten, twenty-five, fifty, one-hundred, two-hundred and fifty, and one-thousand guilder notes. American dollars or travelers checks can be exchanged at banks, hotels and some shops. Generally personal checks will not be accepted. For U.S. Government employees on official business, check cashing service is available from the Embassy Cashier during the hours between 10 - 12 Monday through Friday. TIPPING IN THE NETHERLANDS Restaurants, hotels and bars include a service charge (usually 15%) when totaling a bill for food and beverages. A bill ("rekening") with the tip included is called "inclusief." The gratuity covers. all service personnel. An extra tip is in order if you have received exceptional service or asked for special attention. This amount should never exceed half of the included tip, and one third is perhaps most usual. Taxi drivers always include at least 15% tip. If you are in doubt, ask whether the fare is "inclusief." The minimum tip is one Dutch guilder. There is usually a small charge (25 c.) for the use of rest rooms (W.C./Toilet). If the charge is not specified, a tip of approximately twenty-five Dutch cents is appropriate. In most cloakrooms ("garderobe") a set fee is charged for service. Tips are given the day after New Year's day to all who have served you daily throughout the year (i.e. the milk man, baker, newsboy, etc.) RESTAURANTS RECOMMENDED BUT RATHER EXPENSIVE: KITCHEN THE HAGUE ADDRESS PHONE CLOSED CLOSES Saur (fish) Lange Voorhout 47-53 463344 Sunday 22:00 Des Indes 'Le Restaurant' Lange Voorhout 54-56 469553 22:00 Royal Lange Voorhout 44 600772 Sunday 22:00 Chez Eliza Hooikade 14 462603 Sat/Sun. 22:00 La Cigogne Van Stolkweg 1 574121 22:00 (Promenade Hotel) SCHEVENINGEN: Kurhaus Restaurant Gevers Denootplein 30 520052 18:30-11:00 'La Kandinsky' lunch: 12:00-16:30 WASSENAAR Auberge "De Kieviet" Stoeplaan 27 01751/79203 Monday 22:00 OEGSTGEEST De Beukenhoff Terweeweg 2-4 071/153177 Sunday 22:00 GOOD RESTAURANTS, MODERATELY PRICED THE HAGUE Bistroquet Lange Voorhout 98 601170 Sunday 22:00 'T Gemeste Schaap Raamstraat 7-9 639572 Thurs.* 22:00 Bar-B-Q Bontje Javastraat 7a 460118 22:00 Bistro Bontje D. Hoogenraadstr.224a 522711 23:00 Le Gentilhomme Noordeinde 148 464664 23:00 Trias Lange Houtstraat 3 651175 10:00 SCHEVENINGEN Kurzaal (Kurhaus) Gevers Deynootplein 520052 - 22:00 (buffet-type only) 12:00-13:30, daily, also in evening 18:00-22:00. De Lobster Pot (Fish) Dr. Lelykade 23 501039 Wed. 22:00 Bistro le Bon Mangeur Wassenaarsestraat 119 559213 Sun./Mon. 22:00 *from 4/1-9/1 - 8.- FISH RESTAURANTS KITCHEN MENU # SCHEVENINGEN ADDRESS PHONE CLOSED CLOSES ESTIMATE Ducdalf Dr. Lelykade 557692 - 21:45 Havenrestaurant Van der Toom Treilerdwarsweg 2a 545783 Sunday 19:30 THE HAGUE Bistro-Mer (Bontje) Javastraat 9 607389 23:00 De Verliefde Kreeft Bleijenburg 9-11 644522 23:00 ITALIAN RESTAURANTS THE HAGUE Da Roberto Noordeinde 196 464977 Tuesday 23:00 Roma Papestraat 22 462345 Tuesday 22:00 Marco Polo (Restaur.) Kettingstraat 9-11 652080 Monday 22:00 Marco Polo (Pizzeria) Kettingstraat lb 466281 * 22:00 Pizza Biffi Denneweg 142 649497 Monday 22:00 Pizza Hut Noordeinde 140c 468511 Monday 22:00 *Pizzeria; Wedn. : 12:00-14:30/17:00-22:00. Thur.: 16:00-22:00. Sat.: 12:00-22:00. On Sunday no lunches, open 16:00-22:00. JAPANESE RESTAURANT THE HAGUE Shogun Lange Houtstraat 3 655486 Sunday 22:00 Hours 12:00-14:00/15:30-22:00. CHINESE/INDONESIAN RESTAURANTS THE HAGUE Garoeda Kneuterdijk 18A 465319 22:00 Tampat Senang (music) Ln.v.Meerdervoort 6 636787 21:30 China Denneweg 120 A 643545 22:00 Woo Ping Korte Poten 3 462805 22:00 Raden Ajoe Lange Poten 31 644592 22:00 Sarinah Gouden Regenplein 4 601585 21:45 first floor restaurant closed Mon. & Tue. ; ground floor restaurant closed Monday. RIJSWIJK De Chinese Muur Jan Thijssenweg 16 992776 23:00 (Drievliet) SCHEVENINGEN Bali Badhuisweg 1 502434 22:30 FAST FOOD Mc Donald's Buitenhof 22 650959 22:00 Mc Donald's Plein 6 642763 22:00 Mc Donald's (Schev.) Strandweg 59 542787 22:00 Burger King Gev. Deynootw 503917 #: Miminum price-indication for a three-course menu. 9. WHERE TO SHOP GROCERY STORES & SUPERMARKETS IN THE HAGUE: V & D (Vroom & Dreesman) Department Store, Spuistraat 45, tel. 92.42.11, large supermarket in basement. KONMAR, Elandstraat 142 Tel. 45.86.47, or Laakweg 126 Tel. 98.03.67. ALBERT HEIJN, Weimarstraat 110-118 Tel. 64.97.71 or Leyweg 1018 Tel. 66.75.16. HEMA Department Store, Grote Marktstraat/Voldersgracht 57, tel. 65.98.44, limited food department. BABYLON Shopping Center, next to Centraal Station (not far from the Embassy). Westerman Grocery, Maliestraat 1, tel. 46.25.56 (off the Denneweg, close to the Embassy and Des Indes Hotel). KIJKDUIN (near Atlantic Hotel): Shops are situated below Promenade. A & 0 Supermarket, 19 Teunisbloemlaan, tel. 68.86.54. Centra Supermarket Waldeck, A. Diepenbroekhof 2, (Waldeck Shopping Center) tel.: 91.01.13. SCHEVENINGEN (near Flora Beach Hotel): You will find many food stores on the Keizerstraat & Stevinstraat, the main shopping streets of Scheveningen. CLOTHING, GIFTS, SOUVENIRS The finest shopping district in The Hague is the Noordeinde and its two extensions, Hoogstraat and Venestraat, in the center of town. You will find clothing, shoes, furniture, china, crystal, oriental rugs, antiques, and silver shops there. Two department stores, Vroom & Dreesman and the Bijenkorf are sometimes crowded, but they stock many excellent articles at prices sometimes lower than those in some small shops. "Best buys" are brass, copper, Delft blue, Leerdam and Maastricht crystal, and diamonds. - 10- WHERE TO FIND Pewter, Souvenirs Address Phone Amusa-Kroes C.V. Passage 22 460489 De Hollandsche Molen Strandweg, 131, Scheveningen 547479 Diamonds - NOTE: all addresses listed below are in Amsterdam Simons Kalverstraat 98 020/239833 Bernard Schipper N.V. " 38 II /226929 Coster Diamonds Paulus Potterstraat 2 " /762222 Herman Schipper N.V. Heiligeweg 3 " /236572 Schaap en Citroen Kalverstraat 1 " /266691 Antique Shops These are SO plentiful that just a stroll through the city streets will present you with many temptations. Look under "Antiquair" in the telephone book for a complete listing. Antique Walk The VVV (Tourist Organization) has mapped out several routes such as the "Antique Walk" along many curio shops in the old inner city. It is printed on the back of a reproduction of a 1614 print "Bird's Flight Over the Hague." Or try the "Neptune Route," through the fishing village of Scheveningen. The "Art Nouveau Route," takes you on a walk along houses in "new art" style. Consider a bicycle trip through the southwest and north of The Hague, and wander through the scenic dunes Routes are available at the VVV information offices for Dfl. 1. Auction Houses ("Veilingbedrijf") Auctions are held periodically. Most auction houses will be delighted to put your name on their mailing list. A viewing day ("Kijkdag") is always held prior to the actual sale, SO that potential bidders may view the merchandise in advance. Bids can usually be left at the office if you cannot attend the auction house commission. Inquire in advance as to exactly what percentage will be charged for commission. Dutch Specialities for Gifts Cheese Holiday sweets and cookies Blankets Chocolate (for example, Droste) Delft Pottery Bulbs (must be ordered before mid-October) Wooden Shoes Tiles Silver Pewter Costume Dolls Cigars Stainless Steel Dutch size coffee & teaspoons (demitasse) Crystal and Glass Cookie Boards Brass Copper - 11 Traffic-free shopping areas: Centrally situated next to The Hague Central Station is the shopping-center BABYLON. This covered area boasts several elegant shops, parking in the underground carpark, several restaurants and three cinemas. In the center of The Hague are three covered shopping complexes: THE ARCADE (PASSAGE) with its Venetian style dome the first covered shopping arcade in The Netherlands, THE PASSADENHA and the traffic-free PALACE and CITY PROMENADE. The covered shopping-center KIJKDUIN PROMENADE is situated adjacent to the beach in Kijkduin. Parking is available free of charge and the shops are open in the evenings and on Sundays. You can find several shopping complexes in Scheveningen: The PALACE PROMENADE, the GEVERS DEYNOOTPLEIN and the BOULEVARD. A lively area with shops, bars and restaurants which cater to all tastes. Seven days a week (evenings also) you can purchase something or go window-shopping in relaxed surroundings. The Palace Promenade also offers several entertainment possibilities. SHOPPING HOURS Department stores are closed Monday mornings. Certain stores close for half-day periods during the week and many are closed for lunch between 1 and 2 o'clock. In general, stores are open on weekdays from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, and are closed on Sundays. Shopkeepers are obliged to indicate their opening hours on their door or in their shop window. Shops may be open a total of 52 hours per week. Thursday (shopping-night) 7 PM - 9 PM. Saturday 9 AM - 5 PM. Closed on Sundays. In addition, during the period March 15 - October 15, the shops in the vicinity of the Scheveningen Boulevard and the shops at the Deltaplein in Kijkduin may open: Mon. - Sat.: until 11 PM. Sun. and Holidays: 9 AM - 8 PM. From October 16 - March 14 on Sun. and Holidays 9 AM - 8 PM, and also open during this period in Scheveningen on Friday evening in Gentsestraat, Stevinstraat, Boulevard, and Palace Promenade. Hairdressers and barbers are usually closed all day Monday in The Hague. Schedules differ from town to town, however, so it is advisable to check before planning your shopping. Food stores and small neighborhood shops often close between 1 and 2 PM for lunch. - 12-- OUTDOOR MARKETS These are held weekly in most towns in The Netherlands. Listed below are some of the larger and more popular markets: The Hague - Antique-, book-, picture-, and curio-market is held every Thursday between 11 AM and 9 PM on the Lange Voorhout from May 15 thru September 30 only. At the Plein every Thursday 11 AM - 9 PM from October 1 thru May 14. There is a general market including a "flea market," located at the Hobbemaplein every Friday, Saturday and Monday. - Markthof Gedempte Gracht/Spui, Monday 11 am - 6 PM: Tuesday-Saturday 9 AM - 6 PM; Thursday 9 AM - 9 PM. - Market Leyweg: Tuesday 8 AM - 5 PM. - Wares Market: Herman Costerstraat; Mon, Fri 8 AM - 6 PM, Sat. 8 AM - 5 PM. - Stamp Market: - corner Paleisstraat/Noordeinde ; Wed. afternoon and Sat. morning. - Amacitia: Westeinde 15; Sat. noon - 5:30 PM. Amsterdam Open daily: general market Mon. - Sat., Nieuwe Markt. General Market Mon. - Sat., Albert Cuypstraat. "Flea Market" Mon. - Sat., Waterlooplein. Delft Open air market on Thursday 9 AM - 4 PM. Especially the flower-market on this day in Spring and Summer is recommended. Leiden every Wednesday and Saturday; located behind the City Hall (Stadhuis). General Market: Nieuwe Rijn, Wed. 7 AM - 6 PM. Leidschendam market - parking lot of the Leidsenhage shopping center on Tuesday, 9 AM - 5 PM. Loosduinen open air market Wednesday 9 AM - 4 PM. Voorburg open air market, Rosenboomlaan on Saturday, 9 AM - 4 PM. Voorschoten open air market, Voorstraat on Friday, 9 AM - 5 PM. Rotterdam Every Tuesday and Saturday, Grote Markt by Blaak train station (Binnenrotte): fruits, vegetables, fabrics, general market and a "Flea Market." Scheveningen open air market at Stevinstraat on Thursday 9 AM-4:30 PM. Fish-Auction: Visafslagweg, Mon.-Sat. 7:30-9 AM. Wassenaar open air market on Tuesday, opposite Duinrell. - 13-- CLOTHING SIZES CONVERSION GUIDE Remember: European sizes are not as standardized as American. Sheet and pillowcase sizes also differ from the American sizes. Women's Dresses, Coat & Suits American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 British 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Continental 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Women's Blouses, Sweaters American 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 British 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 Continental 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Shoes American 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5 9.0 9.5 10.0 10.5 11.0 British 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5 Continental 35.5 36.0 36.5 37.0 37.5 38.0 38.5 39.0 39.5 40.0 40.5 41.0 Men's Suits & Overcoats American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Continental 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 Men's Shirts American 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 17 17.5 18 British 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5 17 17.5 18 Continental 37 38 39 41 42 43 44 45 Shoes American 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 British 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Continental 39.5 41 42 43 44.5 46 47 To calculate your child's Dutch shoe size, measure his foot in centimeters, then multiply by 1.5 (i.e. for a foot measuring 20 cms., the proper size is 20 X 1.5 = size 30). - 14-- Mail Services International mailing addresses including required postal code for the Embassy and Consulates are as follows: Mr. John Doe Mr. John Doe American Embassy American Consulate General Lange Voorhout 102 Museumplein 19 2514 EJ The Hague 1071 DJ Amsterdam The Netherlands The Netherlands Current rates for international mail through The Netherlands PTT are as follows: Letters within country, and EEC : 75 Dutch cents per 20 grams Letters in Europe outside EEC : 1 guilder per 20 grams Letters (airmail) to U.S. : Fl. 1.30 for first 10 grams (letters between 10 - 20 grams are Fl. 1.50; letters 20-30 grams F1. 2.10 Changes in PTT postal rates will be published in the Embassy weekly "The Windmill." EMBASSY MAILROOM Opening hours: 07:30-13:00 - 14:00-17:15. Lunch: 13:00 - 14:00. POST OFFICE HOURS All post offices indicated on map The Hague, Main Post Office: Nobelstraat/Prinsestraat/Kerkplein, tel. 71.94.49. Open: Mon.-Fri. 8:30 AM - 7 PM, Sat. 9 AM till noon, Thurs. till 8:30 PM. Scheveningen: Post Office, Strandweg 37 (opposite Pier) tel. 55.59.59. Open mid June-mid Aug.: Mon.-Fri. 8:30 AM - 6 PM, Sat. 9 AM - 4 PM; mid Aug-mid June: Mon.-Fri. 8:30-5 PM, Sat. 9 AM - 4 PM. Local post offices normally open at 8:30 AM and close at 5 PM. These hours may vary, however, SO check with your local branch. TAXIS Taxis are expensive and do not cruise. You can find them at taxi stands (a. "Taxi Standplaats"), or call 90.77.22. BUS AND TRAM Bus and tram services are excellent. A map of The Hague bus and tram lines is in the Welcome Packet. Tickets can be purchased from special sales points, such as drugstores, tobacconists and major post offices. They can also be purchased from the driver, but are more expensive than the multiple-ride tickets which can be purchased at the special sales points. If you use public transportation often, it might be more economical to purchase a monthly ticket, which may be bought at the Centraal or Hollands Spoor (railway) Stations. These tickets are valid on all bus and tram lines as far as Voorburg. Special rates for students (under 18 years of age) are available as well. For information call the Tram and Bus Company, called the Head Office HTM tel. 848484, Dynamostraat 10, The Hague, open 7:30 AM - 11 PM; or the Railway stations H.S. and C.S. Please note the brochure in your welcome kit concerning the use of your bus and tram ticket, The "Strippenkaart." Information Dutch trams and busses: Tel. 82.41.41. Trams No. 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 12 and busses No. 4, 25 leave from Central Station. Trams No. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and busses No. 5, 18, 20, 30 leave from Hollands Spoor Station. TRAINS Information: daily 7:30 AM - 11 PM , Tel. 82.41.41. Station H.S., direction Amsterdam (north) ,Rotterdam, Belgium and France (south). Station C.S., direction Amsterdam, Utrecht and Germany (east). There is a direct train-connection with Schiphol Airport (called The Schiphol Line, note the small airplane on the departure board), leaving from railway station Den Haag Centraal and station Hollands Spoor. Duration: 30 minutes. CYCLING IN HOLLAND As volksmarching is to Germany, cycling is to Holland--an in-depth way of touring the country and meeting the people. The possibilities for bicycle touring are endless. Trips may combine train, car, and bicycle for more extensive adventure. The ANWB (auto club) has bike route maps for sale, plus a free map of the Netherlands called the "Fietsroutekaart Nederland." Maps of circular bike routes that can be done in a day are also available at the ANWB or bookstores. - 16-- HINTS FOR DRIVING IN THE NETHERLANDS The speed limit in The Netherlands is 50 kilometers in town, 70 kilometers for some roads in the outskirts, and 100-120 kilometers on the highways as indicated. The car coming from the right has the right-of-way at most intersections including alleys, streets and traffic circles. Through streets which have precedence (you don't give way to the right) are indicated by white-bordered orange diamonds posted on the light poles along the street. For the traffic entering these priority streets, there are two types of signs on posts at the corner which are similar to U.S. "stop" signs. The first is a red-bordered white triangular sign which indicates that you must yield to all traffic on the priority street, but does not require that you stop if there is no approaching traffic. The second is an octangular sign which bears the word "Stop," and does require you to stop, traffic or not. For these through-streets only, the right-of-way rule does not apply for cars using them. Otherwise, you will find that cars will enter streets from lanes and cross streets without caution if they are on the right and have the right-of-way. The use of seatbelts for the front seats of the car is mandatory. Children under the age of 12 must sit in the rear seat with a hip-belt. From 12 years of age they are allowed to sit in the front seat with the required belt. Telephone Nos. of Dutch automobile associations: ANWB touring club 26.44.26. Headoffice The Hague, Wassenaarseweg 220, available day and night for information by telephone. KNAC 90.51.58. ANWB/Eme rgency Road Service (for Hague city) 63.69.68. ANWB/Traffic Information 31.31.31. The ANWB office offers valuable emergency road service in the NL and Europe. It also stocks excellent road maps for the NL and Europe (plus special routes through each province of The Netherlands, including alternative ones or cyclists), and other useful items for drivers. WARNING: The Netherlands Police are authorized to take severe measures against anyone driving under the influence of liquor. If the police stop you for an alcohol consumption check and you do not have diplomatic status, you may be required to breathe through a glass tube into a small balloon. If the yellow grains in the tube turn green, you may be taken to the police station for a second breath test, and, if necessary, a blood test will be done. Any percentage of alcohol in the blood higher than 0.5 "pro mile" is sufficient to cause the contents of the tube to turn green. Officers with a diplomatic title who are included in the Diplomatic List for The Netherlands may refuse to take the test. If you are charged with a traffic violation - parking, speeding - you are expected to pay the fine. This applies to diplomats as well as other categories of employees and dependents. - 17- ENTERTAINMENT The "WEEK PROGRAMMA" gives schedules for the movies, church, services, trips, etc. in the Wednesday issue of local newspapers and can be purchased from local bookstalls in The Hague. The Netherlands National Tourist Office (VVV) will furnish information on special events throughout The Netherlands, the opening hours of museums, exhibitions, flower shows, etc. The VVV has various tourist guides available for sale. Some brochures are furnished free. The VVV also issues a monthly Tourist Info Brochure in English on all above mentioned actitivities. Details on towns in The Netherlands should be obtained from their local VVV's. Info on theatre, concerts and events can be obtained via the VVV, 54.62.00. In addition tickets can be ordered from the VVV, not merely for performances in The Hague/Scheveningen, but also Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Haarlem, Delft etc. The VVV offices in The Hague and Scheveningen are located at: Gevers Deynootweg 126 Scheveningen Tel. 54.62.00 Open: April 1 - Oct. 1, Mon.-Sat. 9 AM - 8 PM, Sun. 10 AM - 5 PM; Oct. 1 - Apr. 1, Mon.-Sat. 9 AM - 6 PM, Sunday closed. Kon Julianaplein 30 (Next to Central Station) 546200 Open: April 1 - Oct. 1, Mon.-Sat. 9 AM - 8 PM, Sunday 10 AM - 5 PM; Oct. 1 - Apr. 1, Mon.-Sat. 9 AM - 6 PM, Sunday 10 AM - 5 PM. Museum Card - - With a Museum Card, you are given free entry to a large number of museums throughout the year. At the moment, they number 300. The cost of a museumcard is F. 7.50 for those under 26 years of age, F 20.-- for those aged between 26 and 64 and F. 12.50 for the 'over-65 pass,' and foreigners with a 'senior-pass.' The card is obtainable from the VVV-offices and most of the museums themselves. - 18-- PLACES OF INTEREST TO VISITORS THE HAGUE A charming village grown into a beautiful town, not the capital, (which is Amsterdam), but the seat of the Government where the Parliament and the Ministries are located. Mauritshuis The Royal cabinet of paintings - The Mauritshuis, next to the Binnehof, has in its collection paintings of Rembrandt, Jan Steen, Vermeer, Frans Hals, Ruisdael, and other famous Dutch painters. The museum was reopened in 1987 after a complete restoration. It is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM and on Sunday from 11 AM to 5 PM. Telephone 469244. It is located at Korte Vijverberg 8 in The Hague. The Hague Municipal Museum Variegated collections include: glass and pottery from islamic countries and NL, Hague silverware, 20th century design, paintings and sculptures from 19th century, including works of The Hague School and Piet Mondrian, and musical instruments. The Dutch Costume Museum is housed in the municipal museum since 1985. Open: Tue. thru Sat. 10 AM -- 5 PM, Sundays and holidays 1 PM - 5 PM. Stadhouderslaan 41, Tel. 51.41.81. Tram 10, Bus 4, 14. Museon - Museum showing new collection on education OPENS Spring 1986. The opening of " Museon" marks the completion of a unique project in The Hague - three major attractions of national significance, are then located right next to another: The Municipal Museum, the Museon, and the Omniversum. The permanent exhibits at the new building are titled: earth, our home, and between man and nebula. The visitor is told a fascinating story; the origin and evolution of our planet; faraway countries, the attainments of science and technology. Opening hours will be from: Tue. thru Sat. 10 AM - 5 PM, Sundays and holidays 1 PM - 5 PM. Address: Stadhouderslaan 41, tel. 51.41.81. Tram 10; Bus 4, 14. Omniversum Europe's first space theatre, a superlarge screen dome projection (840 m2) and the formidable sound of 40 speakers. Open daily. Shows start at 2,3 and 4 PM, and 7,8 and 9 PM. During holidays every hour, on the hour from 11 AM - 9 PM. Address: Pres. Kennedylaan 5 (near the Municipal Museum) tel. 54.54.54. The Hague Peace Palace An ornate building, constructed with funds donated by Andrew Carnegie and inaugurated in 1913, which houses the International Court of Justice and the Permanent Court of Arbitration, the International Law Academy and a library. Tours at 10 and 11 AM, noon, 2 and 3 PM and from June 1 untill Sept. 1 also at 4 PM. Sat. and Sunday only for groups upon request (min. 20 p.). Open: Mon.-Fri. 10 AM - noon / 2 - 4 PM. Address Camegieplein 2, tel.: 46.96.80. Tram 7, 8 Bus: 4, 13. For further sights please refer to the brochure enclosed in your Welcome Kit. - 19-- DELFT VVV Delft, Markt 85, 2611 GS Delft, Tel. 015-12.60.00. Monday to Saturday from 9 AM to 8 PM; Sunday 12 noon to 5 PM. October 1 - April 1; Monday to Friday 9 AM - 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM - 5 PM. An information booklet obtainable at the VVV containing Hotels, city-map, restaurants/eating houses/coffee-shops, a walking tour etc., shops and entertainment for F. 2.--. Founded in the 12th century, Delft was virtually destroyed by an explosion in 1654, and then rebuilt--a fact which gives it a remarkable unity of style. Long famous for its earthenware, it is now a center of scientific research. Market Place A very practical place to start, since the VVV office is also located here. At this central square you can clearly observe the New Church (early 15th century) at one end, and the Town Hall (17th century) at the other. In the middle, a statue is placed of Hugo Grotius or Hugo de Groot, a local symbol of justice. Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) An early 15th century gothic church (Protestant) containing the mausoleum of William I [the Silent] (carved in 1614), and the burial vault of the Dutch Royal Family, the House of Orange. Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning a presentation of the carrillion (48 bells) is given. Oude Delft (Old Delft) Canal Attractive, tree-lined canal, crossed by donkey-backed bridges and flanked by old buildings of elegant facade. Prinsenhof Museum A convent before becoming (in 1583) the residence of William the Silent, The Prinsenhof is now a museum featuring relics of the 80 Years' War (1568 - 1648), and a collection of paintings of members of the Royal Family (Orange-Nassau collection). It is the very building were William was later assassinated in 1584. Every autumn an Old Art and Antique Fair is held at the Agathaplein. Open: Tuesday-Saturday from 10 AM - 5 PM, Sundays and National holidays 1 PM - 5 PM. Closed on Monday. Oude Kerk (Old Church) Situated directly accross from the Prinsenhof. In the church historical figures are buried, such as the naval heroes Maerten Tromp and Piet Hein and a memorial on naturalist Antonie van Leeuwenhoek and stained glass windows can be admired. In the imposing, clearly slanting tower (13th century) hangs an enormous clock, de Bourdon, which is only rung on very special occasions, such as during the funeral of Princess Wilhelmina in 1962. Open: April 1 - October 1, Monday-Saturday from 12 noon to 4 PM. - 20- Shopping and markets in Delft Not only a great variety of antique and curio-shops, speciality shops, and old-fashioned baker's shops e.g. Roodenrijs, Brabantse Turfmarkt 81, where you will find Delft's cream cakes 'Jan Hagel' or ask for 'salt-cakes' as a souvenir. Or try Bierhuizen's bakery at Langendijk 6, with the 'poffer', a fancy round bread with various fillings), but especially the Thursday Market Day in worth-while. A large general market is held in the very heart of the town, on the market-place, from 9 AM to 5 PM. Don't miss the flower market held at the same time on the Hippolytusbuurt, along the canal. On Saturdays, there is a fruit and vegetable market on the Brabantse Turfmarkt. Shops are closed on Monday mornings. Delft ware - The history of Delft ware goes back to its country of origin, China. Artistically decorated porcelain was brought into this country from China on United East Indian Company ships. Imitating the multi-coloured Chinese and Japanese porcelain varieties, Delft ware was produced not only in blue, but also in other colors. In the middle of the 17th century, Delft alone had more than 30 potteries. Over the years most of them have ceased their activities and had to close down. The Delft-ware potteries that still carry on the old trade are: 1. De Porceleyne Fles. (since 1653) Rotterdamseweg 196. Tel. 015-56.02.34. Bluetique, with demonstrations of paintings. Open: April 1 - September 30, Monday-Saturday from 9 AM to 5 PM, Sunday from 10 AM to 4 PM; October 1 - March 31 Monday-Saturday from 9 AM to 5 PM. 2. De Delftse Pauw. Delftweg 133. Tel. 015-12.47.43. Delfts Blue Factory. Open: April 1 - September 30, daily (including weekends) 9 AM - 4 PM. October 1 - March 31, Monday-Friday 9 AM - 4 PM. Weekends from 11 AM to 1 PM. 3. Atelier de Candelaer. Kerkstraat 13. Delfts Blue Manufacturer. Open: April 1 - September 30, Monday-Saturday 8:30 AM-6:00 PM. Sunday from 10 AM to 6 PM. October 1 - March 31, Tuesday-Saturday 9 AM-12:30 PM/1:30 PM to 6 PM. ROTTERDAM VVV Tourist Information address: Stadhuisplein 19, Tel. 010-13.60.00 (for telephone information). Open: Apr.-Sep.: Mon. to Sat. 9 AM - 6 PM, Fri. 9 AM - 9 PM, Sunday 10 AM - 6 PM. Oct.-March: Mon. to Sat. 9 AM-6 PM, fri 9 AM - 9 PM. Closed on Sunday. Tram: 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. Underground: Stadhuis, Bus: 38,45,49. A port of major importance for centuries, Rotterdam was bombed by the Germans in 1940 and all but destroyed. An allied bombing in 1943 virtually completed the job. The 30,000 buildings destroyed have since been replaced by a modern city. The rebuilt and extended port rivals all others in the world, including New York. Boymans-van Beuningen Museum One of the Fine Arts Museums of the world with paintings by such artists as van Eyck, Breughel, Frans Hals, Rubens, Titian, Monet, van Gogh and Picasso, and sculpture by Rodin and Degas. Address: Mathenesserlaan 18-20. Tel. 020-36.05.00. Tram 5. Underground: Eendrachtsplein. - 21- Euromast A tower situated near the port of Rotterdam. Its top affords a magnificent view of the city and the port. Also contains a restaurant with equal views. Euromast and Spacetower are opened daily March 15- Oct. 15, from 9 AM - 10 PM; Euromast Oct. 15 - March 15, from 9 AM - 6 PM, and Space-Tower 11 AM - 4 PM. Entrance adults: 7.50. Children u/i 14: 3.75. Extra charge Spacetower: Dfl. 3.00 and 2.00 respectively. Address: Parkhaven 20, Tel. : 010-36.48.11. Shopping Rotterdam: In Rotterdam shops are open Mondays, from 1 PM to 5:30 PM, Tuesdays thru Thursday from 9 AM to 5:30 PM, Fridays from 9 AM to 9 PM, and Saturdays from 9 AM to 5 PM. Lijnbaan Arcade A partly roofed shopping centre and pedestrian precinct of unique attractiveness with many fine shops - a short walk from the Rotterdam Hilton Hotel and Central Station. Binnenwegplein is surrounded by department stores, shops and offices, and situated at the extension of the Lijnbaan. Tram no. 3. Historical Holland Excursion - from June 5 thru Aug. 28, every Wednesday at 9 AM. Duration approx. 6 1/2 hrs. A tour along historical spots and towns (a.o. the silvertown Schoonhoven and a cheesefarm), windmills and old crafts. Departure from R'dam VVV office, Stadhuisplein. Price F. 53.50 p.p. including lunch and visit to cheesefarm and windmill. LEIDEN VVV Office: Stationplein 210, 2312 AR Tel. 071-146846. Open: April 1 - September 1, Monday-Friday 9 AM - 7 PM, Saturday 9 AM - 6 PM and Sunday 10 AM - 2 PM. September 1 - April 1: Monday-Friday 9 AM - 5:30 and Saturday 10 AM - 4 PM. The intellectual capital of Holland, Leiden was developed from a village located at the foot of a 9th century fortress. Its world-famous University was established in 1574. There are a large number of monuments, patrician houses, museums, churches and parks. Nearly all are situated in the center, within easy reach from train and bus station. A.o.: University History Museum, Botanical Garden of the University (founded in 1585 and among the oldest in the world), Netherlands Army Museum "General Hoefer," Pilgrim Fathers Documents Center (contains copies of records relating to the Pilgrim Fathers, who, after 11 years residence in Leiden sailed on the 'Mayflower' to America). Not even to mention the National Museum of Geology and Mineralogy, and the National Museum of Antiquities and a Municipal Museum 'De Lakenhal' with paintings (Rembrandt, Jan Steen) silver and period rooms. A leaflet "Leiden Museumstad" at the VVV will give full info on opening times, addresses etc. Rapenburg Canal The most attractive canal in Leiden, crossed by bridges of three arches, tree-lined and bordered by beautiful houses. - 22- Pieterskerk (Pilgrim Church) An enormous Gothic church (Protestant) which the Pilgrms visited for a while before making their way to the New World. Thanksgiving services for the American community in The Netherlands are held each year in this church. Tel. 071-12.43.19. Shopping and markets The shoppping center in the city center consists of the Breestraat, the Haarlemmerstraat and immediate area. Most shops are open Monday till Friday 9 AM - 6 PM, Saturday 9 AM - 5 PM. Opening times are shown on each shop door. Late night shopping Thursday till 9 PM. Markets in the center of the city on Wednesday and Saturday 9 AM - 5 PM. The 'Vijf Mei-plein," Tuesday 9 AM - 2 PM. Cattle market in the "Groenoordhaller" Monday and Tuesday 7 AM - 11 AM. AMSTERDAM VVV Tourist Information address: Stationsplein 10, Tel.: 020-26.64.44. Open Easter till Sept. 30: Mon.-Sun. 8:45-11 PM. -Oct. 1 till Easter: Mon.- Sat. 9 AM - 7 PM. Sun. 10 AM -1.30 PM and from 2.30 PM - 5.30 PM. For telephone information, Tel.: 020-26.44.44. -Easter till Sept. 30: Mon.-Sat. 8:45 AM - 5 PM. -Oct. 1 till Easter Mon.-Sat. 9 AM - 5 PM. After 5 PM and Sunday Tel.: 020 - 22.10.16. Capital of The Netherlands and one of its principal cities. Intellectual and artistic center, Amsterdam is also a world-important place of business, finance, industry and air travel. Canals Constructed during Amsterdam's "Golden Age" in the 17th century, its canals retain the charm of that period while serving modern needs. Addresses for canal boat-trip: Holland International: Pr. Hendrikkade, Tel. 020-22.77.88, or Rederij Kooy: Rokin near Spui, Tel. 020-23.38.10. Rijksmuseum (National Museum) Founded by Louis Bonaparte in 1808, now housed in a building in the Dutch Renaissance style built in 1876, the collection permits the viewer to trace the development of Dutch art until its flowering in the 17th century. The collection is dominated by Rembrandt (a.o. The Night Watch) , and supported by Vermeer and other Dutch artists. Address: Stadhouderskade 42. Tel.: 020-73.21.21. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 16, 24, 25. Rijksmuseum van Gogh (National van Gogh Museum) This museum is devoted mainly to the works of van Gogh, and contains more than 200 paintings and 400 drawings by this great artist. There are also works by his friends and contemporaries like Manet, Gauguin and Toulouse-Lautrec. Address: Paulus Potterstraat 7-11, tel.: 020-76.48.81. Tram: 2, 5, 16. - 23- - TRAM AND BUS IN AMSTERDAM Planning to stay the whole day in Amsterdam? Then buy a dayticket. For (appr.) F. 7.40 you can ride on all Amsterdam tram, bus or metro lines for one day and the following night. Tram and bus drivers sell these tickets at the front door. In the metro stations you can get them from the automatic ticket dispenser. They can also be purchased at the GVB ticket booth in front of the Central Station, and at the GVB Central Office at Stadhouderskade 1 (near Leidseplein). Two and three-day tickets are also available, but they can only be obtained at the GVB ticket booth in front of the Central Station and at the GVB Central Office. A 2-day ticket costs F. 10.--, a 3-day ticket F. 12.25. Pls. remember to have your ticket stamped for the first trip in the yellow stamping machine in trams or by the driver in buses. Unstamped tickets are not valid. GVB office in front of Central Station (Stationsplein) is open from 7 AM - 10 PM (Saturday and Sunday: 8 AM - 10 PM). CHURCH SERVICES The American Protestant Church of The Hague Esther de Boer-van Rijklaan 20, 2597 TJ The Hague - tel. 24.44.90 Sunday Worship: 09:15 and 11:15 AM Sunday Classes: 10:15 AM Nursery facilities are provided for children below kindergarten age. In summer months call for a revised schedule (June 16 to Sept. 1, 10:00 AM). The English Speaking International Roman Catholic Parish of The Hague Aloysius College, Oostduinlaan 50, The Hague. Saturdays: Mass in Aloysius College at 6 PM. Sundays : Mass in Aloysius College at 10 AM. Confessions before each Mass. Parish House, Ruychrocklaan 126, 2597 ES The Hague. Tel. 28.08.16. Christian Science Church, First Church of Christ, Scientist, The Hague Andries Bickerweg 1, 2517 JP The Hague, tel. 63.66.52. Sunday Service in English: 11:15 AM (nursery provided). Combined English/Dutch Testimony Meeting every Wednesday: 8 PM A reading room where the Christian Science Monitor is for sale, is located at Laan van Meerdervoort 199 (near Reinkestraat corner), The Hague, tel. 45.67.81.; weekly hours are 10 AM to 16:30 PM. English and American Episcopal Church (The Church of St. John & St.Philip) Ary van der Spuyweg 1, The Hague, tel. 55.53.59. Chaplain: Rev. Canon Alan Lindsay Sunday Holy Communion: 8:30 PM Sunday Morning Service, Sunday School and Creche in the British School, 10:15 AM at Jan van Hooflaan 3, Voorschoten. Sunday Evening Service: 5 PM. Wednesday Holy Communion: 12:30 PM. - 24 - Liberal Jewish Congregation Prinsessegracht 26, 2514 AP The Hague, tel. 65.68.93 Synagogue: Jan Evertstraat 7, The Hague (near American Embassy) Services: First Friday each month - night service at 8 PM. All other Friday night services at 6 PM. Saturday morning Shabbat-service at 10:00 AM. Russian Orthodox Church le Sweelinckstraat 54, The Hague, tel. 65.34.97 Slavonic Vespers & Martins - 19:30 PM Saturday Divine Liturgy - 10:30 AM Sunday Trinity Baptist Church Hofcampweg 3, Wassenaar, Tel. 01751-14734. Christian Evangelican Church Holiday Inn, Leiden. Haagse Schouwburgweg 10, Tel. 071-769310. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormon) Leersumstraat 11 & 13, The Hague, tel. 293531 Sacrament Meeting: 11:20 AM Fast & Testimony: 11:20 AM - first Sunday of the month Relief Society: 9:30 AM Sunday Primary: 9:30 AM Sunday Meeting for young men and women: 19:30 Friday evenings Services are in Dutch. There is a translating system for English-speaking people. - 25- - HOW TO FIND BROADCASTS IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE LISTING OF AFN AND BBC WAVE LENGTHS WAVE LENGTHS RADIO NETWORK METER BANDS KILOCYCLES (kHz) AFN Schinnen FM 89.15 MHz Soesterberg FM 103.4 MHz Volkel FM 93.6 MHz Maastricht FM 93.4 MHz BBC World Service 464 m 648 50.21 m 5875 Radio 1 285 m 1053 275 m 1089 Radio 2 433 m 693 330 m 909 Radio 2 FM Wrotham 89.1 MHz Tacolneston 91.9 1MHz Radio 3 247 m 1215 Radio 3 FM Wrotham 91.3 MHz Tacolneston 91.9 MHz Radio 4 1500 m 200 Radio 4 FM Wrotham 93.5 MHz Tacolneston 94.1 MHz - 26 - HOW TO FIND BROADCASTS IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE BBC WORLD SERVICE (All Times GMT) World News Broadcasts 17 times a day at: 00:00 02:00 03:00 04:00 05:00 06:00 07:00 08:00 09:00 11:00 13:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 20:00 22:00 23:00. Newsdesk A half hour programme including World News, dispatches from overseas and British based correspondents and a Press Review. Daily at 04:00 and 06:00. Twenty-Four Hours Analysis of the main news of the day with review of British Press. Monday to Friday 05:09, 07:09, 13:09, 20:09. Commentary Background to the news from a range of specialists. Daily 16:09, 23:09, Saturday and Sunday 13:09, 20:09. Radio Newsreel News of events as they happen and despatches from BBC correspondents over the world. Daily 00:15, 12:00 (not Sunday), 15:00, 18:15. New Ideas A radio shop-window for British industry, news of the latest products and inventions of interest to the householder and small business. Saturday 11:15 (repeated 22:30), Sunday 04:45, Friday 16:35. Business Matters Weekly survey of commercial and financial news. Thursday 11:30 (repeated 21:30), Friday 03:30. Financial News including news of commodity prices and significant moves in currency and stock markets. Monday to Friday 22:30 (repeated Tuesday to Saturday 04:45, 09:30). Stock Market Report Monday to Friday 19:39. Recommended frequencies for Western Europe: 648KHz and 463M Medium Wave. 5.975, 6.05, 7.12, 7.185, 7.255, 9.41, 9.75, 12.095 and 15.07 Mhz in the 49, 41, 31, 25, and 19 metre bands. Full program and frequency information available from BBC External Publicity, Bush House, London, WC2B 4 PH. - 27- - BRIEF OUTLINE OF U.S. MISSION FUNCTIONS AND OPERATIONS The American Embassy in The Hague is a medium-sized Western European post. The American diplomatic mission in the Netherlands employs 254 people (140 U.S. citizens and 113 non-Americans). The sections of the mission are: Executive Section (EXO) This section contains the Ambassador and the Deputy Chief of Mission, their secretaries and two non-American employees, a protocol assistant and the ambassador's driver. The section is responsible for the management and coordination of all American federal government employees in the Netherlands who are not under a U.S. military theater commander. Administrative Section (ADMIN) This section is responsible for liaison with Dutch offices on operational problems of the mission and for the provision of in-house support services. It contains 12 sub-units. APO - U.S. military post office B&F - cashier, budget, all payments CPU (also known as C&R). - code room, communications and central files Computer Center - unclassified word processing and data processing Community Liaison Office (CLO) - is concerned with the care and welfare of embassy employees and their families General Services Office (GSO) - miscellaneous purchasing and all miscellaneous administrative tasks -- Maintenance - carpenters, electricians, etc. -- Motor Pool - operates an inter-agency motor pool and a small automobile servicing shop in the basement of the chancery -- Mailroom - unclassified mail is Marine Security Guards (MSG) - under the command of a Staff Sgt., the six U.S. Marines are responsible for providing 24-hour-a-day security at the chancery Personnel - in-house personnel services Security - headed by the Regional Security Officer and responsible for coordinating all in-house elements involved in providing for the security of the mission and mission personnel. - 28 Agriculture Section (AGRA or AGRI) This section is staffed by U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service (FAS) employees and is responsible for dealing with the Dutch Government on agricultural trade questions, collecting agricultural intelligence and promoting the export of U.S. agricultural products. Consulate General, Amsterdam (ADAM or ConGen or CG) The American Consulate General at Amsterdam (38 miles from The Hague) is an integral element of the mission and is staffed mainly by U.S. Department of State employees. It performs all consular services for which the mission is responsible, such as issuing U.S. visas to Dutch travelers to the U.S., issuing passports to American citizens, etc. Commercial Section (COML or FCS) This section is staffed by employees of the U.S. Department of Commerce (FCS) and is responsible for promoting sales of all non-agricultural U.S. exports to the Netherlands. Four employees of this section are housed in the American Consulate General in Amsterdam. Customs Attache's Office (CUST) This section is staffed by employees of the U.S. Department of the Treasury and is responsible for collaboration with the Dutch authorities in such areas as blocking the diversion of U.S.-made strategic goods to the Eastern Bloc and for inhibiting the flow of child pornography into the U.S. Defense Attache's Office (DAO or DATT) This section contains U.S. Army, Navy and Air Force attaches and is responsible for collecting military intelligence and for liaison with Dutch military intelligence authorities. Office of Defense Cooperation (ODC) This section is staffed by members of all three U.S. armed services. It is responsible for the security assistance program with the Netherlands in the NATO military framework and for fostering armaments cooperation and defense industrial cooperation between the Netherlands and the U.S. Drug Enforcement (DEA) This section is staffed by employees of the U.S. Department of Justice and is responsible for cooperating with Dutch law enforcement officials in the struggle to reduce the flow of narcotics into the U.S. Economic Section (ECON) This section is staffed by employees of the Department of State and carries the main burden of coordinating all aspects of U.S. economic policy in the Netherlands. The section also includes the labor attache (LABATT), who is responsible for gathering information on the Dutch labor scene and for representing U.S. international labor interests to the Dutch government and labor movement. Mission Plans & Program (MPP) This section, staffed by the Department of State, carries out specialized functions, many of them ad hoc, for the executive section, such as coordination with various U.S. military organizations in the Netherlands; Middle East and other third world issues and developments, etc. Political Section (POL) This section is staffed by officers of the Department of State and is responsible for all international political relations, following the Dutch domestic political scene and following the crucial political aspects of our military relations with the Netherlands, particularly on arms control questions and NATO policy questions. Office of the Agent of the United States to the Iran - U.S. Claims Tribunal (USIR) This section is staffed by lawyers from the Department of State and exists to present U.S. interests before the U.S.-Iranian Claims Tribunal. United States Information Service (USIS) This section is staffed by officers from the U.S. Information Agency and is responsible for all embassy relations with the media, the Dutch cultural world, and the Dutch world of education. U.S. Travel and Tourism Administration (USTTA) This unit is entirely housed inside the American Consulate General in Amsterdam and is staffed by employees of the U.S. Department of Commerce. It promotes Dutch tourism to the U.S. - 30. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA) AGENCIES LOCATED OUTSIDE THE CHANCERY 'Agricultural Research Service (ARS) ARS has its European Market Research Laboratory in Rotterdam. It employs 2 Americans and 3 foreign nationals there who perform research aimed at improving grading, processing, packaging and shipping methods used for U.S. products exported to the EC. ARS also has one American stationed at the Agricultural University in Wageningen who acts as a liaison for the exchange of agricultural research between the U.S. and various European countries. Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) APHIS has a regional office in The Hague which covers plant protection and quarantine (PPQ) issues in Europe, the Middle East and African countries, including Israel and South Africa. APHIS currently has a staff of four Americans. The salaries, housing expenses and benefits of these employees are at least partially paid by the countries in which they pre-clear, for disease and insect control, horticultural shipments to the United States. For example, APHIS personnel pre-clear Dutch flower bulb exports to the United States. Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) FSIS has one inspector based in The Hague. He monitors the inspection systems in the Benelux countries, certain Eastern European countries, and Iceland to ensure that their meat exports to the United States conform to our import standards. SPECIAL U.S. MILITARY UNITS WITHIN THE U.S. DIPLOMATIC MISSION TO THE NETHERLANDS U.S. Army Veterinary Detachment Netherlands Division (VET DET or VETS or USAMEDCOM) The Netherlands Detachment of the U.S. Army Veterinary Corps is one of six in Europe whose main purpose is to ensure the wholesomeness and quality of food bought by the U.S. military from European suppliers. Netherlands American Cemetery and Memorial American Battle Monuments Commission (ABMC) The American Military Cemetery in the Netherlands is in Margraten, near Maastricht, in the province of Limburg -- located 150 miles from The Hague. There are some 8300 Americans buried in this cemetery, most of whom died while engaged in the airborne and ground operations to liberate the eastern Netherlands. U.S. Research and Development Coordinator for the SHAPE Technical Center (USRADCO) The SHAPE Technical Center (STC) is an international (NATO) organization, not a U.S. government installation. USRADCO, located inside the SHAPE Technical Center, is a small U.S. government organization and represents the U.S. in the STC. USRADCO also recruits and administratively supports the two dozen U.S. scientific and technical personnel on loan to STC. Defense Subsistance Office (DSO) A civilian American stationed in Rijswijk (near The Hague) represents the commodity contracting officer of the U.S. Defense Subsistence Region Europe (DSRE) for purchases by the U.S. military of food and subsistence commodities from the Netherlands, Luxembourg, northern France, northern West Germany, the United Kingdom and Ireland. PRINCIPAL U.S. MILITARY UNITS IN THE NETHERLANDS OUTSIDE PURVIEW OF U.S. DIPLOMATIC MISSION Soesterberg The Dutch Air Force Base at Soesterberg, near Amersfoort in the center of the Netherlands, hosts the biggest U.S. military presence in the country, the U.S. Air Force's 32nd Tactical Fighter Squadron, located at Camp New Amsterdam. Brunssum and Schinnen (southern Limburg) The United States has approximately 150 officers and 500 other ranks assigned to NATO's AFCENT HQ (headquarters for Allied Forces Central Europe) along with nearly 1000 dependents in Brunssum, in Limburg and a much smaller presence connected with the U.S. participation in AFCENT in nearby Schinnen. Rotterdam The Military Traffic Management Command/Transportation Terminal Command Europe and other associated transportation offices are involved in the transport of Department of Defense cargo and personnel both in peace time and in time of war. Located in Capelle a/d IJseel, at the harbor of Rotterdam, these units employ a total of 26 officers, 53 enlisted personnel and 17 civilians. Coevorden The U.S. Army's Combat Equipment Battalion Northwest, the unit overseeing four war reserve material sites located throughout the Netherlands, is located in Coevorden. - 32-- 12 form of stereotype images such as the relationship to the water, the specializa- tion in certain horticultural and agricultural products, the look of the capital city, and the general character of the people. MR. SUTTON, I HOWEVER, I AM A MUST TELL YOU THAT AS YOU KNOW, I BELIEVE REAUSTIC MAN. I REALIZE YES, SIR. IT IS MY HOPE THAT THE AMERICAN PEOPLE THAT OTHER PEOPLES OF AM I ONLY THE MY VISION FOR AMER- ARE FILLED WITH LOVE THE WORLD ARE NOT ALL RIGHT? DUTCH. ICA CAN BECOME A AND DECENCY AND NECESSARILY COMPASSION- GLOBAL ONE COMPASSION.. ATE AND GOOD AND LOVING. 9-10 The Dutch image in the world? The Dutch themselves cannot escape responsibility for the perpetuation of a cer- tain amount of this. On the one hand is the tourist and public-relations industry which tends to reinforce the favorite images and clichés, not even shrinking from putting up a monument to the boy who performed the absurdly impossible feat of putting a finger in the dike. On the other hand is the unfortunately pervasive atti- tude in the Netherlands that the country, social customs and language are all pri- vate tribal matters that foreigners cannot be expected to be seriously interested in. Typically the Dutch expect to do the adapting to outsiders and, with an im- plicit assumption of the lack of importance of the Netherlands on the international scene, are not strong in promoting insight into the country and its society that goes much beyond the images already there. The Netherlands presents us with more than one irony. One is that the same country that offers the world a model of interacting organization and planning for the future should present itself toward the outside mainly in the form of im- ages from a bygone era. Another is that the same country that information about seems so scanty should in reality be one of the most information-minded socie- ties in the world. The quantity of published and regularly updated material on the Netherlands in popular and specialized periodicals, professional journals, bro- chures and books is safely termed overwhelming, and even if all the Dutch-lan- guage material is set aside as for practical purposes inaccessible, the quantity in English is still very large. The first, and probably most fundamental, purpose of the exploration to follow will be to thread the way carefully through some of the Two Americans in Two Dutch Republics The Adamses, Father and Son R. R. PALMER O N April 19, 1782, the States General formally received John Adams as minister plenipotentiary from the United States. A reception by the Stadtholder, William V, soon followed, and a treaty between these two "powers of the earth," to use a phrase from the American Declaration of Independence, was signed the following October. It is not a treaty of military alliance, such as the United States signed with France in 1778. It is what diplomats call a treaty of amity and commerce. It is a long document, in twenty-nine articles. All the articles but one pertain to trade, merchant shipping, guarantees to seamen, and such matters. But the first article states that "there shall be a stable, inviolable and universal peace and sincere friendship between their High Mightinesses the States General of the United Provinces and the United States of America." Time has rendered many of the commercial provisions obsolete, and their High Mightinesses long ago disappeared, but the friendship remains; it has indeed been one of the least troubled of any between two peoples, and we hope and expect that it will continue to be so. Except for France, the Dutch government was the first in the world to recognize the United States. Last year, on a brief visit to Morocco, I learned that this honor is claimed for the Sultan of Morocco, but a little research has assured me that the priority of the Dutch treaty cannot be successfully challenged, for one article of the Dutch-American agreement provided for Dutch assistance to the Americans in negotiations with Morocco and the Barbary states, and the American treaty with Morocco was signed in 1787. It is still a question whether the Dutch were a little slow in not extending recognition until six years after the Declaration of Inde- pendence. Why did they wait until after the battle of Yorktown and [3] From: A Bilateral Bicentennial: a History of Dutch-American Relations, 1782-1982.' 11 Herbert H. Rowen 231 grandeur lingered, little changed from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries because modernity had passed it by. They looked in at the e- Prinsenhof, displayed their knowledge of history when they saw the i- holes made by Balthasar Gérard's bullets, and sighed at the fate of heroic William the Silent. They noticed that the canals in Delft did not smell, or at least they remembered that they didn't when they at encountered the evil-smelling grachten of other towns. But they stayed in Delft only for a few hours. They stayed longer, usually for several days, at The Hague a few miles on. If they called it the "seat of government" and not the d "capital," we may be sure that they were consulting their guidebooks St sedulously, for what American to this day can conceive of a capital n that is not the seat of government? They found The Hague very much to their taste. It was "elegant" and "charming"-the words recur constantly, and though we may hear the echo of the guidebooks in these words, they obviously spoke the viewers' admiration. Men of IS property although all good republicans, these tourists observed the y good taste of the homes of diplomats and nobility which clustered about the royal court. They rode out to Huis ten Bosch, were enraptured by its paintings, and thought it quite a nice place for a S Queen to live in, not too royal, as it were. One visitor was especially pleased to see in the Queen's apartment, open to tourists while she was away, a triumph of American industrial ingenuity-a Singer sewing machine, with all the signs of being much used. The visitors took in the obligatory Mauritshuis museum, which they usually called the "national gallery." Some were thankful for its humane dimensions, especially so, no doubt, if they had already trod the interminable if glorious longueurs of the Louvre. Two pictures impressed them most of all, Paul Potter's "The Young Bull" and Rembrandt's "Anatomy Lesson." The meticulous naturalism of Potter's brush and the directness of his subject made it a work of art after their own hearts, and they enjoyed too the good-natured jokes they could make about the danger of wearing red while viewing it. They were more strained by the shocking power of Rembrandt's painting, but were as often repelled as fascinated. It was realistic enough to gain their respect, but they wanted art that pleased without shattering their complacency. The other painters they mention are pretty much those we would expect-usually the lesser lights of the Golden Age by our judgment, but occasionally Hals and Steen, never Vermeer until the end of the century and seldom even thereafter. All in all, there is something paradoxical in the attitude of these visitors: they repeat incessantly that seeing "the pictures" was one of the principal reasons why they had come from afar to this little country, yet it is clear that they enjoyed only the simplest kind of art. To be able to say that they From "American Travelers in Holland through Two Centuries" by: Herbert H. Rowen: paper in "A Bilateral Bicentennial, a History of Dutch American Relations, 1782-1982." 4 A BILATERAL BICENTENNIAL e could visit Czar Peter's little house. Those who went on to signed simply arken and Volendam found tourist traps, all the quaintness con- that were to fol idated and commercialized with a primitive Disneyification. Many of the ele Returning to Amsterdam, they resumed their journey, which was are already in W nearing an end. A delightful trip down the Vecht, past the our while to pic xuriance of summer homes, to Utrecht. A climb perhaps up the free- Watson anding high tower of the cathedral to see far into the distance "glut." He was I about, as some had down at Rotterdam; a glance down at the experienced in stinctive canals a floor below street level-and that was all. Upstream with its slack Germany, stopping at Arnhem perhaps, and admiring its relaxed sharply aware r as a resort town for the wealthy of Amsterdam-so like the resort fishermen's dau wns with which the tourists were familiar back home. And then, clothes but tow ist Nijmegen, out of the Netherlands. by the girls' "I Thus far we have merged into a single picture the reactions of and habit may umerous writers, taking from each what was common to most, and Unlike me aying little attention to the distinctively individual. Reduced to a an unattached :W words, it is a picture that is not too complimentary to either side. while he was 'he Americans for the most part sought the "picturesque" and the quaint," but not the significant. They did not see that the Dutch and perhaps the old man's ation was slowly moving through the great reorganization of its of the commo olitical, social, and economic life in the nineteenth and twentieth enturies. The Dutch for their part had little concern for these visitors no great dang not unwilling rom afar. Some did go out of their way to be courteous and helpful; genteel wome thers, who made their living off foreign gapers, treated Americans may have gon they treated all other tourists, milking them of their money. We find of revelers, in gnificance only when we move from the run-of-the-mill tourist to lowed up a ose who were unusual in some way, either in their personal qualities with a visit to knowledge and penetration or because they came on business or for the city, to be ewal of family contacts. And then we find unexpected rewards. of it was all h Perhaps the liveliest and least inhibited of all the travelers' tales term for harl he very first. Elkanah Watson came to Holland in 1784 when he and sheep are only twenty-six years of age, but he was already an accomplished His aesth eler. An apprentice merchant when he had gone to France in John Adams, he had been confirmed there in his American patriotism, his feast for the blicanism, and his distaste for the ways of old regime Europe.⁷ soul." Music, to England after the conclusion of peace, he crossed over to burghers of and in May 1784, "without any view of business" but to "rub the middle 01 lf a little bright among the Mynheers and Mavrouws." Admitting Music was b ignorance" of the country and the people, he had hunted the Chancing int tores of London for "some good description of that artificial was fascinate try," but was astounded to find none factual or thoughtful enough magnificent The ten letters written while in Holland the next month, selves looked retrospective one from London on his return, provide the main During of his rare work, A Tour in Holland in MDCCLXXXIV, Orangists an F.D.R. to Queen Wilhelmina at The Hague (letter in F.D.R.L.) THE WHITE HOUSE, DEC. 19, 1939 My dear Queen Wilhelmina: The situation of The Netherlands-the country of my ances- tors-seems for the time being more secure than when I tele- graphed you several weeks ago. I can only hope and pray that as this dreadful war goes on there will be no future crisis which threatens the independence and the integrity of your nation. However, none of us can be certain in these days when nor- mal and friendly international relations are so completely sub- ject to the whim of small groups of fantastic people to whom nothing is sacred. Therefore, I want you to feel wholly free at any moment to act on the very whole-hearted and sincere desire of my wife and myself to do anything for your family which may be of assist- ance to you and yours. It is natural that both you and I should think much of our grandchildren and their preservation from the very serious dangers of modern warfare. Should you consider it best for them to be away from the scene of dangers, I can, at a moment's notice, send a cruiser to a safe point to take them and their attendants on board and bring them to these comparatively safe shores-and, of course, it would be delightful also to welcome the Princess Juliana, should she decide to come with them. You, my good friend, I know will want to stick by the ship. We should be delighted to have them with us at the White House or at our country place on the Hudson River where my Mother, who is eighty-five years old, would be very happy to take care of them. Some day I shall hope to have the great privilege of meeting you. You do not know it but the only time I have seen you was when we were both children-and you were driving in one of the parks at The Hague. I know you will pardon this typewritten letter but in these 971 modern days my penmanship is not as legible as it was once. May the New Year bring happier days and greater security for you and The Netherlands. Faithfully yours, F.D.R. to Mrs. J. Borden Harriman in Oslo (letter in F.D.R.L.) THE WHITE HOUSE, DEC. 22, 1939 Dear Daisy: Many thanks for yours of December fourth. I, too, am sorry that the Nobel Committee made the definite mistake of not awarding the prize this year. Yesterday I received the formal notice for recommendations for next year and I have written the enclosed to the Committee. Will you be good enough to see that it is duly delivered to them? You are certainly in the midst of things in Oslo. The definite surge of public opinion in favor of Finland and against Russia over here is amazing and we are literally doing everything we can without legislation to help the Finns. As ever yours, [Enclosed letter follows]: F.D.R. to the Nobel Committee in Oslo (letter in F.D.R.L.) THE WHITE HOUSE, DEC. 22, 1939 Gentlemen: It is well known to you that on several previous occasions I have proposed for the Nobel Peace Prize the name of Cordell Hull, Secretary of State of the United States of America. At this time I have the honor to renew this recommendation. For nearly seven years Secretary of State Hull has carried on with great consistency his twofold efforts to bring about international relationships, especially among the twenty-one 972 THE 58 Ryn 64 Ouden 100ml z8 z7 Rhyn Den 6z 84 - 66 90 8₺ 88 Nieuwen Ryn HET LEIDSE STADHUIS Het monumentale stadhuis van Leiden ligt tussen de Breestraat en de Vismarkt op de oever van de Rijn. Het Leidse stadhuis heeft eigenlijk twee gezichten. Aan de Breestraatzijde staat de oude gevel, ontworpen door Lieven de Key, die rond 1600 werd gebouwd. Aan de kant van de Vismarkt ligt het 'nieuwe' stadhuis dat in 1932 werd ontworpen door architekt Blaauw. De oude en nieuwe gevel zijn de zichtbare getuigen van de lange geschiedenis van het Leidse stadhuis. Meer over het stadhuis van Leiden leest u in deze folder. 2 Stadhuis in 1587 gecomendar anying stoff foren De oudste stadhuizen verkoophal van laken) op de bovenverdieping en de vleeshal gelijkvloers aangebracht. Het oude wanthuis werd verkocht en de wantsnijders vonden Voor zover valt na te gaan had de gemeente Leiden al een tijdelijk onderdak in het wolhuis. Ook de oude vleeshal werd stadhuis in 1350. Dat raadhuis was niet meer dan een hal met verkocht. een toren. Op de eerste verdieping was een vergaderruimte voor In 1426 werd op de benedenverdieping van het stadhuis een de stadsbestuurders. In de nacht van 24 op 25 augustus 1381 kamer gemaakt waar de schepenen in konden vergaderen. brak er brand uit. Er is geen steen van overgebleven. Ook voor de vierschaar, de vier burgemeesters, was een vertrek in het stadhuis aanwezig. Omstreeks 1410 werd het inmiddels herbouwde stadhuis te klein en men pakte de vergroting grootscheeps aan. De instelling van het 'College der Veertigraden' in 1449 maakte Woonhuizen en/of woonerven werden voor de uitbreiding dat er meer vergaderruimte nodig was. aangekocht. Dit kollege, een voorloper op de huidige gemeenteraad, keek dan In dit veel grotere gebouw werden het wanthuis (keur- en ook uit naar uitbreidingsmogelijikheden. 3 Stadhuis omstreeks 1890 Buurman Wermbout Janszoon's huis werd gekocht in 1455 en bij De 16e eeuw het stadhuis getrokken. Dit huis is het op de tekening van 1587, (p. 3), uiterst linkse stuk met de drie ramen dat hoger is dan het In de jaren na het beleg van 1574 kwam de stad, dankzij de gedeelte met de gekanteelde borstwering. textielnijverheid, tot bloei. Het stadsbestuur vond dat het uiterlijk In 1457 werd tevens besloten om ook het achter het stadhuis van het stadhuis daarvan moest getuigen. Daarom maakte naast de Wijnkraan gelegen huis en erf van Alijt Trompers te Lieven de Key, de stadssteenhouwer van Haarlem, een ontwerp kopen. Met de aankoop van de huizen van Wermbout en Alijt voor een nieuwe gevel. Behalve voor de bouw van het Leidse heeft het middeleeuwse stadhuis zijn grootste omvang bereikt. stadhuis, was Lieven de Key onder andere ook verantwoordelijk In de jaren daarna werd voortdurend, zowel inwendig als voor de bouw van het stadhuis in Haarlem en de Waag in Gouda. uitwendig, aan het gebouw gewerkt. In 1460 bijvoorbeeld De bouw van de nieuwe gevel aan de Breestraat nam twee jaar in bouwde men een nieuwe torenspits. beslag (1595-1597). Een ongeplande 'verbouwing' vond plaats in 1481. In dat jaar Het achterliggende gebouw bleef ongewijzigd. Het sluitstuk van ontplofte het buskruit, dat was opgeslagen in het stadhuis. De de uitwendige verbouwingen vormde de bouw van de torenspits raadzaal werd hierdoor volledig verwoest. zoals die tot de brand van 1929 heeft bestaan. Deze spits was de 4 Stadhuis, 1984 5 Raadzaal, kamer van B en W, vervanger van de houten spits, die was aangebracht na een brand in de toren in januari 1573. Vanaf de 17e eeuw Ook het interieur van het stadhuis onderging allerlei verfraaiingen. Jan Lievens schilderde het schoorsteenstuk voor de kamer, die werd gebruikt voor vergaderingen van de Grote Vroedschap, een stedelijk bestuurskollege, dat nu de gemeenteraad heet. De kamers, waar de vier burgemeesters vergaderden, maar ook de kamers van de grotere kolleges, zoals het Gerecht, werden verbouwd en aangekleed met gobelins, wandkleden met ingewerkte figuren. Voor de schoorsteen van de burgemeesterskamer schilderde Ferdinand Bol een stuk over het bestuur van de stad. De vier burgemeesters droegen zorg voor de stedelijke financiën, het onderhoud van de stadsmuren en grachten en allerlei 'gemeentewerken'. Schout, Schepenen en burgemeesters werden samen het Gerecht genoemd. Het Gerecht vormde het bestuur van de stad. Pas in 1808 werden alle bestuurskolleges in de stad afgeschaft. Eén man, de burgemeester, kreeg het bestuur van de stad in handen, geassisteerd door vier wethouders. In 1824 werd Gijsberto de Mey van Streefkerk de eerste burgemeester van Leiden. Ook werd het kollege van B & W in dit jaar ingesteld zoals dit tot op de dag van vandaag nog funktioneert. De kuratoren van de universiteit, leden van de kommissie van toezicht, vonden al sinds het eind van de zestiende eeuw onderdak in het Leidse stadhuis voor hun bijeenkomsten. In 1681 kregen ze een eigen kamer, die tot 1811 dienst heeft gedaan. Verder werden bestuurlijke en rechterlijke bevoegdheden ontkoppeld. Rechtspraak en belastingaangelegenheden werden rijksaangelegenheden. De vroedschapskamer werd raadzaal. De weeskamer waar vanaf ongeveer 1450 aparte 'weesmeesters' belast waren met de zorg van ontheemde Leienaartjes en de vleeshal, waar de kwaliteit van het vlees werd bewaakt, verdwenen in de 19e eeuw. De rechterlijke kolleges verhuisden naar Rapenburg 19, het huidige kantongerecht, zodat vele ruimten beschikbaar kwamen voor het groeiende gemeentelijke apparaat. en de Weeskamer vóór de brand van 1929 6 Stadhuis in 1928, een jaar voor de brand Noordeindapleination - No. 2500 Telefoonnu... 57055 - Redactie Postbus 1507. No. 54 \ Bun Franco per post IIII or Leide de : (4) 1 1 biredle green OF yer ketten $ het on Snysen THE and ri# dr de or non den 1 LATIR De brand van 1929 'Het stadhuis brandt'... Als een lopend vuurtje ging dit bericht op de ochtend van 12 februari 1929 door de Leidse straten. Op deze noodlottige dag werd een prachtig bouwwerk verwoest. Alles wat zich aan kunstschatten binnen de muren bevond ging in nauwelijks drieenhalf uur verloren. In verband met de heersende vorst waren alle kachels in het stadhuis blijven branden. De deuren van alle vertrekken waren geopend om op die manier wat warmte in de gangen te krijgen. Nadat de brand werd ontdekt rond vier's morgens door een nachtwaker, werden onmiddellijk de brandweer en de politie gewaarschuwd. Om vijf voor halfvijf ontving de brandweer een telefoontje van de dienstdoende telefonist op de Leidse telefooncentrale aan de Bloemmarkt (=Boommarkt), dat er brand was in het stadhuis aan de Vismarktzijde. Door de felle vorst, minstens 18 graden onder nul, waren de wachtdiensten extra bezet, zodat allebei de spuiten direkt konden uitrijden. Een ambtenaar van de Stedelijke Licht- labrieken. die behulpzaam was bij het op- hijschen van een 9traalpijp kreeg. doordat deze van de glang losschoot, het zware koperen voorweip op zijn hoold en moest per brancard naar het Ziekenhuis worden overgebracht. Tal van politie-agenlen be- kwamen bovendien door de glasscherven der brekende rui'en snijwonden aan de handen. Tegen zevenen arriveerde ook de hooldcom- missaris van politie ùit Den Haag, de heer van 't Sant op hel terrein van den brand. Aan de Breestraat werd men langzainer- land den toestand meester al bestond nog ieder oogenblik de kans, dat de panden tegenover het Stadhuis vanal hel huis van prof. Kan tot aan de Pieterskerkkoorsteeg door het overwaaiende vonkengordijn vlam zouden vatten. De brandweer zorgde er evenwel voor de gevels en daklijsten nat te houden en onderdrukte elk begin van brand in den kiem. uit: Leids Dagblad, 12 februari 1929 9 Wat er van de toren restte... (Vismarkt) De eerste spuit gaf water, maar de tweede spuit had pech. Voorschoten, alle gevaar voor verdere uitbreiding geweken. Het Verschillende kranen en leidingen waren bevroren zodat van stadhuis was een troosteloze ruïne. water geven geen sprake was. Donderdag 14 februari bezochten koningin Wilhelmina en prins De sterke wind joeg de vlammen vanaf de Vismarktzijde door de Hendrik de plaats van de stadhuisbrand en uit het hele land ramen en gangen. Het was levensgevaarlijk om het stadhuis nog kwamen reakties van medeleven. binnen te gaan. AI spoedig kwam het bericht dat ook de toren in brand stond. Voor zes uur stortte deze met donderend geraas in elkaar. Toen De herbouw de hele voorgevel in volle vlam stond was men bang dat de brand niet tot het stadhuis beperkt zou blijven. De Leidse brandweer stond vrijwel machteloos en kon tenslotte alleen nog maar de Nadat het stadhuis op 12 februari 1929 was afgebrand vroeg aangrenzende en tegenoverliggende gebouwen beschermen. men zich af of er wel een heel nieuw stadhuis gebouwd moest Omstreeks acht uur in de morgen van 13 februari was, mede worden. Een andere mogelijkheid was namelijk de gevel van dankzij de hulp van de brandweer uit Leiderdorp, Oegstgeest en Lieven de Key restaureren. 10 @@@@@@@@ <<<<<<<<< De gevel aan de Breestraat zou dan als voorgevel dienen voor moeilijk als die van Lieven de Key in 1595. een heel nieuw stadhuis erachter. Lieven de Key moest een gevel plakken voor het bestaande Op 11 juli 1932 besloot de Leidse gemeenteraad zes architekten middeleeuwse stadhuis. uit te nodigen voor het maken van een ontwerp. De taak van Blaauw was een nieuw stadhuis bedenken achter B & W, de gemeenteraad en de kommissie, die de ontwerpen een bestaande gevel. moest beoordelen, vonden het plan van ir. C.J. Blaauw uit De Breestraat, vroeger een dijk, ligt een stuk hoger dan de Haarlem het beste. Blaauw kreeg in juli 1934 de opdracht. Vismarkt. De werkzaamheden voor de gevelrestauratie duurden van Wie aan de kant van de Breestraat het stadhuis via het bordes op januari 1935 tot september 1939. Op 17 december 1940 de eerste verdieping binnenkomt, merkt op dat hij zich op de betrokken B & W hun werkkamers in het nieuwe stadhuis. tweede etage aan de Vismarktzijde bevindt. Het stadhuis is dan ook een gebouw met twee aangezichten; de Breestraatgevel, tevens Nederlands langste renaissance gevel, laag en langgerekt (86 m lang en 10 m hoog) en de Rijnkant Het nieuwe stadhuis De opdracht van Blaauw was even massaal en hoog. 11 Het noodvers van stadsekretaris Jan van Hout HH Thrijc van Spaengien, hem verbliden In tbeleggen, als Ri Ragen Hoer gedult, mi dragen t'liden Zo veel letters zo veel dagen. NAE ZVVARTE HÜNGER-NOOT, GEBRACHT HAD TOT DE DOOT BNAEST ZES-DV|ZENT MENSCHEN : A|_ST GOD DEN HEER VERDROOT. GAF H] UNS WEDER BROOT zo VEEL WI CUNSTEN WENSCHEN HEN · Zooct en vint tjaer. van liden Zwaer , Dat niet en was te herden De Here, maen vrid uns daer naer Der tiender maent. dem derden 'de vrede' Kunst in en om het stadhuis Het stadhuis van buiten Als u voor de gevel aan de Breestraat staat ziet u geheel links een poortje. Voor de brand van 1929 zat dit poortje, uit 1670, aan de achterkant van het stadhuis. Aan de Vismarktkant was toen geen plein maar een gesloten rij van winkels en woningen. Twee rustende kinderen, links de tijd, rechts de eeuwigheid, ziet u op de trap naar de hoofdingang. De twee vrouwen in de nissen naast de deur beelden de gerechtigheid (met zwaard en vergulde weegschaal) en de vrede (met vergulde olijftak en wetboek) uit. Het nood-vers in de gevel aan de Breestraat is van Jan van Hout, de beroemde Leidse stadssekretaris. De regels in hoofdletters tellen evenveel letters als de duur van het beleg in dagen, van 26 mei tot en met 2 oktober 1574. De vette hoofdletters, in de tekst onderstreept, op het stenen bord in goud geschilderd, wijzen samen het jaar 1574 aan. Het jaar waarop Leiden werd ontzet. De vette hoofdletters stellen romeinse cijfers voor, waarbij de W voor twee romeinse V's gelezen moet worden. De romeinse cijfers, die in de tekst zija gebruikt zijn; I=1, V=5, W=10, L=50, C=100, M=1000. Thryc van Spaengien, hem verbliden In tbeleggen als zi zagen Met gedult mi dragen tliden Zo veel letters, zo veel dagen NAE ZWARTE HVNGER-NOOT GEBRACHT HAD ToT DE DOOT BINAEST ZES DVIZENT MENSCHEN ALST GOD DEN HEER VERDROOT GAF HI VNS WEDER BROOT zo VEEL WI CVNSTEN WENSCHEN Zuuct en vint tjaer van liden zwaer Dat niet en was te herden De Here maer vrid' uns daer naer Der tiender maent den derden 13 'de roepstoel' Naast de poort met het 'nood-vers' is de roepstoel, waar de besluiten van de vroedschap werden afgekondigd. In de muur tussen de ijzeren knoppen is een maatstok gekerfd, die de lengte aangeeft van de Rijnlandse roede. De ijzeren staaf, aan de muur rechtsboven de Rijnlandse roede, staat voor de Rijnlandse voet. De maten waren aan de muur van het stadhuis aangebracht om te voorkomen dat er met de afmetingen van het laken geknoeid werd. Als u om het stadhuis richting Vismarkt loopt springt het grote plein met de fraaie ingang aan de Vismarkt, ontworpen door architekt Blaauw, direkt in het oog. Dit plein werd in 1981 nog aangepast aan veranderende inzichten van het gemeentebestuur. Naar ontwerp van stedebouwkundig ambtenaar Jean Piret werd een nieuwe trappartij gebouwd, die de toegankelijkheid van het plein sterk verbeterde. De nu halfronde trap komt de funktie van het stadhuisplein als openluchttheater ten goede. Bij diverse manifestaties en feesten, die zich afspelen op het stadhuisplein doet de trap dienst als tribune. De burgerzaalgevel, links van de toren, sluit in stijl het meest aan bij de oude gevel. De gebeeldhouwde stenen, links van de toren van de hand van mevrouw Franzen-Heslenfeld, stellen van links naar rechts voor: de uitdeling van haring en wittebrood de landbouw een oude drukpers (voorheen en nu nog een van Leidens meest bloeiende ambachten) een dame, die zich laat portretteren Minerva, de godin van de wijsheid een weverij een boer en een boerin rond de kaaspers en een paling pierende peueraar rechts van de toren, onder de kroonlijst van de raadzaal kijken naar buiten; Floris V Hertog Philips van Bourgondië, die de stad met nieuwe privileges begiftigde Jan van Hout, de bekwame stadssekretaris Frans van Mieris, de geschiedschrijver Koning Lodewijk Napoleon, die zich voor Leiden inzette bij de buskruitramp van 1807 en Thorbecke, de ontwerper van de gemeentewet. Leidse peueraar 14 Beeldengroep met graaf Floris V De toren De welgevormde toren, die uit het midden van het gebouw oprijst is 53 meter hoog en lijkt nogal op zijn lagere afgebrande voorganger. De romp is vierkant en bezet met 24 door Verstoep bewerkte kraagstukken, die samen de vier jaargetijden voorstellen. Die jaargetijden worden aangeduid door de tekens van de dierenriem en de maanden van het jaar. De beeldengroep, van de hand van Mari Andriessen stelt de uitreiking van de vrijheidsoorkonde aan de stad Leiden voor door graaf Floris V (1255-1296) in 1266. Opwaarts gaat de toren over in steeds smaller wordende achthoekige verdiepingen. De toren wordt uiteindelijk bekroond door een in lovers uitbottende bol (van de edelsmeden Jan en Eloy Brom) met de windvaan (het Leidse stadswapen met de klimmende leeuw als schildhouder), die afkomstig is van de verbrande stadhuistoren. 15 Het carillon Het eerste klokkenspel, dat nog met een houten hamer werd bespeeld, werd in 1460 aangebracht. In 1670 kreeg Leiden een echte beiaard (carillon). De 38 klokken gegoten door de beroemde klokkengieters Hemony, werden door de brand van 1929 volledig verwoest. Na de brand werd een volledig nieuw carillon met 47 klokken in de nieuwe stadhuistoren geplaatst. De klokken van deze toren werden in maart 1943 door de Duitse bezetters gestolen. Van de 47 in Heiligerlee vervaardigde klokken bleven er maar vier over, waaronder de bourdon van 5.500 kg, een geschenk van het 'Leidsche studentencorps' ter gelegenheid van hun eerste eeuwfeest. In 1950 besloot de gemeenteraad dat het carillon moest worden herplaatst. 43 Klokken werden opnieuw gegoten door dezelfde firma, de firma Van Bergen, uit Heiligerlee. Ondanks alle moeite was de kwaliteit van het klokkenspel verminderd. Daarom werden op advies van de Leidse stadsbeiaardiers 31 nieuwe klokken gegoten en bijgestemd. Er werden drie klokken aan het klokkenspel toegevoegd, zodat de beiaard weer kompleet werd. Een nieuw klavier werd geplaatst en het mechanisch speelwerk werd vervangen door een elektro-magnetisch speelwerk. Al deze werkzaamheden aan het Leidse carillon hebben gemaakt dat Leiden nu 'een van de meest representatieve exemplaren in de rij van zingende torens in Nederland heeft. De Van Bergenklokken zijn hiervan de belangrijkste oorzaak omdat zij de uitvoerder (Eijsbouts) dwongen geen standaardwerk te maken', aldus het keuringsrapport van de Nederlandse Klokkenspelvereniging Het is dus de moeite waard eens naar het carillonspel van de beiaardier te luisteren. De hoofdingang De hoofdingang aan de Vismarkt werd door de bekende beeldhouwer Hildo Krop voorzien van twee forse pilasters met een mannenfiguur (het gezag) en een vrouwenfiguur (de vrijheid) als de twee polen van het stadsbestuur. 16 De versieringen stellen van links naar rechts voor; het beleg van Leiden met het beeld van de toenmalige burgemeester van der Werf; de aanduiding van de vijf fakulteiten van de akademie met de beroemde geneesheer Boerhaave; een boerenvrouw met korenschoven en een arbeider met werktuigen. De ingang wordt bekroond met twee leeuwen, die de afbeeldingen van het rijkswapen en het Leidse stadswapen dragen. De fraaie bronzen deuren met de wapens zijn ontworpen door architekt Blaauw en gemaakt door Jan en Eloy Brom. Het stadhuis van binnen Op de eerste verdieping, rechts van de gemeentelijke kredietbank, vindt u het schilderij 'Gezicht op Leiden'. Het stelt de Haarlemmertrekvaart voor. Links op het doek is de wijk Groenoord te zien. Het schilderij is de gemeente aangeboden in 1940 door de 'Leidsche vereeniging van industrieëlen' en geschilderd door D. Nijland. Op weg naar de tweede etage ook wel de bestuursverdieping genoemd, ziet u een groot gebrandschilderd raam, het wapenraam. Glazenier Hofman heeft hier de wapens van de vele Leidse burgemeesters afgebeeld, waaronder de beroemde burgemeester van der Werf en Leidens meest geliefde burgemeester de Gijzelaar. Vanaf burgemeester van Kinschot is deze traditie voortgezet in het raam tegenover de raadzaal. De burgerzaal van het Leidse stadhuis werd voor het eerst in gebruik genomen op 31 augustus 1948 tijdens een receptie ter gelegenheid van het regeringsjubileum van koningin Wilhelmina. In het dagelijks leven is een gedeelte van de burgerzaal in gebruik genomen als trouwzaal. De vloer bestaat uit donker omlijnde tegels van zeer kostbaar 'Arabescato' marmer, de wanden bestaan uit zwarte 'Port d'Or', een marmersoort die gevonden wordt nabij la-Spèzia en Jaune de Sienne, een gele marmersoort. Heel bijzonder is de synchrone tekening in het marmer, waardoor een soort spiegelbeeldeffekt ontstaat. In de prachtige burgerzaal hangt het schilderij van Pieter van Veen: 'De spijziging der verloste Leidenaren op de 3e oktober 1574', geschilderd in 1615. Het schilderij is een geschenk van de schilder aan de stad Leiden. Pieter van Veen leefde van 1564-1629. Het schilderij is aan de brand van 1929 ontsnapt omdat het in die tijd net voor een behandeling bij de Lakenhal was. 17 Burgerzaal Familiewapen van Van der Werf 18 Entree Vismarkt Windroos De grote hal heeft een glazen koepel, met speelse bloemranken in zwart en wit, ontworpen door Hildo Krop. Hildo Krop ontwierp ook de windroos, links van de ingang, die door middel van elektrisch kontakt in verbinding staat met de windvaan bovenop de stadhuistoren. De vaan geeft elektrische signalen uit welke hoek de wind waait. De beelden naast de opgang naar de aansluitende gang, drukken samen de vruchtbaarheid uit. Het beeld links is van de Amsterdamse kunstenaar Leo de Vries en stelt een jong meisje voor. Het beeld rechts, moeder en kind, is van Ruth Brouwer, eveneens afkomstig uit Amsterdam. Beide beelden zijn sinds 1961 in bezit van het Leidse stadhuis. In de op de grote hal aansluitende gang, die naar de raadzaal voert, vindt u onder andere Paonazzo of pauwenmarmer. Twee hoge mozaiëken van Lode Sengers verfraaien de muur. Het linkermozaiëk stelt de waarheid voor, een nadenkend man die bij het schijnsel van een kaars leest. Het rechtermozaiëk is een uitbeelding van de bereidwilligheid. leder marmer mozaiëk telt ongeveer 26.000 steentjes, die allemaal met de hand zijn ingelegd. KAS 19 Interieur 20 De raadzaal In de vergaderkamer van burgemeester en wethouders vindt u boven de twee zijdeuren twee houtinlegwerken (intarsia) van Escher. Boven de ingangsdeur ziet u een klok met daaromheen vliegende vogels. Dit houtinlegwerk, eveneens van Escher, stelt de 'voortvliedende tijd' voor. De raadzaal werd op 11 november 1945 in gebruik genomen en ademt een ernstige sfeer. Naast de kamer van B & W vindt u de burgemeesterskamer, De betimmering van Braziliaans Pallissanderhout en de gobelins, betimmerd met Satijnhout uit Ceylon. Hier springt een zeer naar ontwerp van de Moor, dragen daar nog toe bij. bijzonder staaltje van houtinlegwerk in het oog. Het middenvak met de klok boven de toegangsdeur symboliseert de tijd. De andere voorstellingen geven achtereenvolgens te Escher heeft hier de groei van de stad Leiden, vanaf 1186-1940, zien: in beeld gebracht door achtereenvolgens de stadsuitbreidingen van de stad in verschillende tinten hout vast te leggen. de sociale zorg Dit kunstwerk werd aan het stadhuis geschonken door het - de arbeid Leidsch Dagblad. de kunst de techniek Het glas-in-loodraam met de Davidster op de tweede verdieping de wijsheid is een geschenk van de Joodse gemeenschap in Leiden. De en de wetenschap gemeenschap schonk het raam in 1981 aan de gemeente als dank voor de steun van de gemeente bij de restauratie van het Het geheel is een uitbeelding van het leven in Leiden. synagogekomplex aan het Levendaal. I 70 the GROES PERIN 1299 1384 1 !!!!! A IT HE F THE THE I 21 Op het pittoreske binnenhof staat een beeldje, dat een jongen die een duif oplaat uitbeeldt. Het beeldje, een geschenk van koningin Wilhelmina ter gelegenheid van de opening van de burgerzaal, stelt Jan van Duyvenbode voor. De van Duyvenbodes, eigenlijk de drie broers Cornelisz., die bij wijze van erenaam de naam van Duyvenbode mochten voeren, onderhielden tijdens het beleg van Leiden het kontakt met Willem van Oranje door middel van duiven. Het vredesbeeldje staat als symbool voor zowel de bevrijding van de bevolking na het beleg als de bevrijding van de bevolking na de tweede wereldoorlog. De jongen met duif is een werkstuk van L.O. Wenckebach uit 1954. De funktie van het stadhuis Gelukkig is het stadhuis niet alleen maar een mooi gebouw met een aantal fraaie kunstwerken. Het is ook een huis voor de burgers van Leiden, die er voor een heleboel zaken terecht kunnen. Juist met het oog op deze publieksfunktie hebben de afgelopen jaren een aantal ingrijpende verbouwingen plaats gevonden, zoals bijvoorbeeld in de hal op de begane grond. Voor de gemeente Leiden werken in totaal zo'n 1700 ambtenaren. Natuurlijk werken die niet allemaal in het stadhuis. Er zijn ambtenaren die werken in het Stadsbouwhuis, bij de Sociale Dienst, bij de Lakenhal, de Stadstimmerwerf, Endegeest enzovoorts. In het stadhuis vindt u zo'n 300 ambtenaren, verdeeld over vijf verdiepingen, die voornamelijk werken bij centrale afdelingen, zoals Personeelszaken, Financiën, Voorlichting en Ekonomische Zaken. Verder vindt u er een aantal grote publiekgerichte afdelingen, zoals de afdeling Burgerzaken, de Kredietbank, het gemeentelijk Informatiecentrum en de Informatiebalie. In het informatiecentrum in de hal liggen kommissie- en raadsstukken, bestemmingsplannen en dergelijke ter inzage. Ook worden er regelmatig kleine tentoonstellingen gehouden. In de grote hal bevindt zich ook de afdeling Burgerzaken waar u moet zijn voor onder andere paspoorten, rijbewijzen, aangifte van geboorte en overlijden, trouwen en verhuizen. Voor leningen kan men terecht bij de gemeentelijke kredietbank. De tweede verdieping is de bestuursverdieping, met de raadzaal, de kamers van de burgemeester en de wethouders, de B & W- kamer, de vergaderzalen en niet te vergeten de burgerzaal voor recepties, ontvangsten en bruiloften. De hal in 1979 22 De hal in 1984 INFORMATIE 53 1 ookkosten prettiges wonen! want 11 latie van Isolatie vloeren van ken I Isolatie: solatie: -- Bij de samenstelling van deze brochure zijn gegevens gebruikt uit: - Het Leidse stadhuis, L.C.J. Roozen - Het Leidse stadhuis, bouw- verbouw- brand- herbouw 10 februari-25 maart 1979 de Lakenhal-Leiden - Hutspot, Haring en Wittebrood, tien eeuwen Leiden en de Leienaars De Kler-Waanders Tekst: Janneke van Haastrecht - Direktie Voorlichting gemeente Leiden Foto's: Dirk Ketting, Leiden Archiefdienst gemeente Leiden Loridan b.v. Layout: Loridan b.v., Hans van Oosterom, Leiden Druk: B.V. Drukkerij J.J. Groen en Zoon, Leiden 1e druk: december 1984 Engels DE LEIDSE HOFJES 8 a n. g e 9 r a C h t 3 29 B 11. 16) 9 23 22 33 31 14 25 21 and 32 6 24 30 13 1 in 28 27 34 12 5 noord CVFM pentek. door J. Belt 17 15 35 26 Secretariaat STICHTING LEIDSE HOFJES 18 Postbus 2230, 2301 CE Leiden THE LEYDEN "HOFJES" (formerly almshouses) 6.* Brouchovenhofje tions made in the 19th century. In 1976/1977 it 27.* Jean Pesijnshofje 16, Papengracht. Monumental 17th century hofje. was wholly renovated. 21, Kloksteeg. A 17th century hofj The word "hofje" was derived from court or garden be- The Vereniging Oud-Leiden (the Association Oud- Pieterskerk. It was built on the S: cause the hofje consists of identical little houses grouped Leyden) uses the trustee-room for their committee 16. Sint Jans- or Van der Laanshofje Robinson lived and died (1623) in round a garden. In some cases there is/was also a chapel. meetings. 264, Haarlemmerstraat. This 16th century hofje was Green Gate". Hofjes were founded by rich, often childless married entirely renovated at the beginning of this century. couples to serve as accommodation for their staff or the 7. Cathrijn Jacobsdochterhofje 28. Sint Pieters- or Van der Spekhofje elderly poor, who apart from free lodging enjoyed 1, Kaarsenmakersstraat. This hofje, founded in 17. Jeruzalemshofje 42, Pieterskerkhof. Simple 17th "preuves", i.e. gifts in the form of food, drink and/or fuel. 1598, was pulled down and moved to the present 49, Kaiserstraat. Oldest hofje in Leyden, founded in Acces through a long passage. Some of them were supervised by the church. Dis- site in 1939. 1467. It was renovated at the beginning of this tinguished hofjes have a gate-house in which the trustee- century. The chapel was pulled down in 1887. 29. Sint Salvatorshofje room is often situated. Here the trustees met; in some of 8. Cathrijn Maartensdochterhofje 17, Steenstraat. This 17th century them founder-family heirlooms can still be admired. 2a, Pasteurstraat. Founded in 1608 and moved to 18. Justus Carelhuis renovated to create housing for stude The name of the founder was often immortalized in a the present site in 1910. 51a, Witte Rozenstraat. Built in 1936. stone in the facade. As to occupation there were regu- 30.* Schachtenhofje lations which were often very severe. Some of them are 9. Coninckshofje 19. Jan de Laterehofje 27, Middelstegracht. A 17th centui still in force. Some of the hofjes, for instance, may only 15, Oude Vest. An 18th century hofje with simple 13, Tweede Binnenvestgracht. This 17th century gate-house. The houses have been be inhabited by women, others only by married couples. little houses. The original architecture is virtually hofje was renovated in 1888. It was restored in novated. After a fixed hour no visitors were allowed. In some intact. order to provide housing for students. hofjes the residents were not allowed to let their guests 31.* Groot Sionshofje stay over-night. 10.* Sint Elisabethsgasthuis 20. Joost Frans van der Lindenhofje. 4, Sionsteeg. This hofje, founded When visiting the Leyden Hofjes please do not forget that Main entrance Ceciliastraat; tourist entrance 16, Grevenstraat. Early 18th century hofje which moved from Papengracht to Sionstee they are inhabited. That is why you are kindly requested Lijsbethsteeg. This home for the aged and infirm, lost its intimate atmosphere when Grevenstraat was not to disturb the rest and privacy of the residents. founded in 1428, has undergone a splendid constructed. 32. Emerantia Banningh- or Klein Sionsh A number of hofjes may be temporarily closed owing to restoration. The chapel and former almshouses still 3, Lange Schoolsteeg. Very small pri restoration activities. house elderly people suffering from chronic 21.* Loridanshofje 17th century hofje. diseases. 1, Oude Varkenmarkt. Splendid 17th century hofje The Leyden "hofjes" in alphabetical order. The most with a picturesque gallery. Completely renovated to 33. Sint Stevenshofje or Convent van Te interesting are indicated by an asterisk 11. Groeneveldstichting accommodate students. 50, Haarlemmerstraat. This hofje, fc 41, Oude Vest. A row of houses, founded at the end was renovated in 1777. 1.* Sint Annahof or Aalmoeshuis (almshouse) of the 19th century for ministers' widows and 22. Juffrouw Maashofje 9, Hooigracht, entrance Middelstegracht. This daughters. 6, Kalvermarkt. Early 20th century hofje. 34.* Tevelings- or Karel Tevelshofje splendidly restored hofje of the late 15th century, 7, Vierde Binnenvestgracht. Picture has a unique chapel, the original inventory of which 12. Heilige Geest- or Cornelis Spronghshofje 23.* Meermansburg century hofje with trustee-room. Th is still there. 1a, Doezastraat. This hofje, at first situated in Bree- 159, Oude Vest. Very large 17th century hofje. ted this hofje to a diamond-shaped g1 straat, was moved to Doezastraat in 1851 when Rich architecture. Fine trustee-room with a consi- 2. Sint Annahofje or Joostenpoort building space was needed for the college clubhouse derable collection of portraits. By far the largest 35. Samuel de Zee's hofje 14, Zegerstraat. This old hofje entirely lost its "Minerva". It was completely renovated in 1920 hofje in Leyden and recently restored. 16, Doezastraat. Nice 18th century original character due to rebuilding in 1876 and and 1926. courtyards. Access through a long pa 1907. 24. Jean Michelshofje 3. Van Assendelfthofje 13.* Eva van Hoogeveenshofje 10, Pieterskerkstraat. Early 17th century complex. 49, Langegracht. A 17th century hofje renovated 7, Doelensteeg. A 17th century hofje with lively Rebuilt in the 17th and 18th century. Renovated in in order to create accommodation for students. facades, nicely patterned pavements and a beautiful 1964. Inhabited by students. pump. 4. Bethaniën- or Emmaushofje 25. Mierennesthofje 43, Kaiserstraat. Founded in the 16th century this 14. François Houttijnhofje 38, Hooglandsekerkgracht. Very small 18th century hofje, when renovated in 1907, lost its former 81, Hooigracht. An 18th century hofje. Renovated hofje, founded in the remnants of the old Sint Pan- aspect. cras Begijnhof (beguinage). This folder was issued by the Stichting ( in 1969/70 by the "Stichting Leidse Studentenhuis- Leidse Hofjes together with VVV-Leider vesting" (Foundation for the housing of students). 5. Bethlehemshofje 26. Barend van Namenshofje Information Office of Leyden). 109-111, Levendaal. The exterior of this hofje was 15. Sint Jacobs- or Crayenboschhofje 12, Oude Hoefstraat. This 18th century hofje was Drawing and map: J. Belt renovated in 1897, but its courtyard has, for the 25, Doezastraat. This 17th century hofje has pre- completely renovated in 1915 by order of C. Pape, a Printed by: Beugelsdijk Leiden B.V. greater part, retained its former character. served its intimate atmosphere in spite of alterna- wealthy trustee. Die Leidener Flagge Le Drapeau De Leyde Wie die Flagge der Stadt Leiden im Laufe der Jahre vor Le drapeau de Leyde, connu dès le XVlème siècle 1949 ausgesehen hat, ist bekannt, da sie oft vorkommt d'après les tableaux et gravures, était généralement auf vielen Zeichnungen und Gemälden, die seit dem 16. représenté jusqu'en 1949 par deux clefs rouges Jahrhundert entstanden sind. croisées sur un fond de bandes rouges et bianches. Auf diesen Bildern sieht man meistens zwei rote, En 1948 la Municipalité engagea un expert afin de créer gekreuzte Schlüssel auf einem Hintergrund von roten un nouveau drapeau pour la ville de Leyde, qui fut offi- und weissen Flaggenbahnen. cialisé en avril de cette même année par le conseil Im Jahre 1948 beauftragte der Magistrat der Stadt einen municipal. Le drapeau mesure 2 mètres de haut sur 3 Sachverständigen, anhand von gegebenen Einzelhei- mètres de large et comporte trois bandes horizontales ten, einen Entwurf für eine neue, offizielle Flagge de dimensions égales de couleur rouge, blanche et einzureichen. rouge. Excentréés vers le coté de la hampe se trouvent sur la bande blanche les deux clefs rouges croisées, In April 1949 wurde dieser Entwurf vom Stadtparlament entourées d'un cercle rouge, empiétant sur les bandes offiziell gutgeheissen und als neue Flagge anerkannt. rouges. Die offiziellen Abmessungen der Flagge sind 3 zu 2 Meter. Sie besteht aus drei gleichlaufende Bahnen Rot-Weiss-Rot. An der Seite der Flaggleine befinden sich zwei gekreuzte, rote Schlüssel auf einem weissen Feld, das durch einen roten Kreis umrandet ist. Les Armoiries de Leyde Les armoiries de Leyde ont une longue histoire commençant en 1125. En cette année-là, la plus ancienne église paroissiale fut consacrée à saint Pierre. A partir de 1293 apparaît régulièrement sur les sceaux des documents officiels de la ville l'effigie de saint Pierre, élevant dans sa main une clef. Cette représentation trouve son origine dans la Bible, chapitre 16, verset 19 de l'Evangile selon saint Matthieu où sont cités les mots suivant s'adressant à saint Pierre: "je te donnerai les clefs du Royaume des Cieux". Au XVème siècle un écu avec deux clefs entrecroisées apparaît pour la première fois en dessous de l'effigie de saint Pierre. Après 1587 l'effigie de saint Pierre disparaît des armoiries et apparaîssent différentes variétés d'écus à clefs croisées, accompagnés d'un lion assis ou de deux lions debout de chaque côté et surmontés d'une couronne à cinq pointes. En 1948 enfin, la Municipalité sollicita de la Reine l'acceptation définitive d'officialiser une nouvelle version des armoiries. Celles- ci furent par Décret Royal attribuées à la ville de Leyde en 1950. Elles sont représentées de la façon suivante: un écu en argent sur lequel figurent deux clefs gueules (rouges) croisées. Derrière celui-ci se trouve un lion gueules belliqueux tenant de la main gauche l'écu et brandissant la main droite une épée nue en argent avec une poignée en or, la pointe étant dirigée vers le haut et à gauche. L'ensemble est placé sur un piédesta- HAEC LIBERTATIS ERGO le en pierre de couleur naturelle sur lequel a été gravé en latin en lettres sables (noires) HAEC LIBERTATIS ERGO. Cette devise, pouvant se traduire par: pour la liberté, date des premières années de la guerre de 80 ans contre l'Espagne, lorsqu'elle fut gravée sur la tranche leiden des pièces de monnaie provisoires. Uitgave buro voorlichting druk: De Bink Leiden Het wapen van Leiden Leiden's flag Het wapen van Leiden heeft een lange voorgeschiede- We know of many versions of the Leiden flag prior to nis, die terug gaat naar 1125. In dat jaar werd de oudste 1949 from numerous paintings and prints some dating parochiekerk van Leiden aan de heilige Petrus gewijd. back to the sixteenth century. Vanaf 1293 is op de stadszegels van officiële documen- Red keys crossed are usually shown on a background ten regelmatig een afbeelding te zien van de Heilige of red and white stripes. Petrus met één opgeheven sleutel in de hand. In 1948 the city council appointed an expert committee Deze afbeelding is te herleiden tot de bijbel waar in to prepare a desgin for a new flag, making use of the Mattheus 16, vers 19 de tot Petrus gerichte woorden historical data available. This design was officially Ik zal u geven de sleutels van het koninkrijk der adopted by the city council in april 1949. hemelen" voorkomen. In de viftiende eeuw verschijnt voor het eerst onder The flag measures three by two metres, and consists of de afbeelding van Petrus een wapenschild, met twee three equal horizontal bands, of red, white, and red, with gekruiste sleutels. In de periode na 1587 ontbreekt in crossed keys in red on a white ground within a red het stadswapen de afbeelding van Petrus en komt het circle off-centre in the white band towards the leading schild met gekruiste sleutels in verschillende vormen edge, and intruding into both upper and lower red voor: met een zittende leeuw, met een staande leeuw of bands. met twee staande leeuwen ter weerszijden en een vijf- puntige kroon erboven. Om aan alle onzekerheid een eind te maken verzocht het gemeentebestuur de Koningin in 1948 om het wapen opnieuw te laten vaststellen volgens een The arms of the City of Leiden Das Wappen der Stadt Leiden bijgevoegd ontwerp. In 1950 werd dit ontwerp bij Koninklijk Besluit tot het officiële stadswapen van Leiden verklaard. Leiden's city arms have a long history, believed to date Das Leidener Stadtwappen kann auf eine lange Vorge- back to the dedication to St. Peter of our oldest parish Het wapen draagt de volgende voorstelling: schichte, die 1125 beginnt, zurückblicken. In jenem church in 1125. From 1293 onwards St. Peter appears Jahre wurde Leidens älteste Pfarrkirche Sankt Petrus in zilver twee schuingekruiste sleutels van keel (rood); het schild van achteren gehouden met de linker voor- on the City seals, with a raised key in his hand. geweiht. Von 1293 an erscheint auf dem Stadtsiegel auf den offiziellen Dokumenten der Stadt Leiden stets das klauw door een strijdbare leeuw van keel, in de rechter St. Peter's keys derive from the text in the Gospel accor- Bildnis von St. Petrus mit dem Schlüssel in seiner voorklauw opgeheven houdende in schuinlinkse stand ding to St. Matthew, (authorised version) chapter 16, erhobenen Rechten. Diese Darstellung bezieht sich auf een ontbloot zwaard van zilver met gouden gevest; het verse 19, in which our Lord addresses the Saint with the geheel geplaatst op een vestingwal van steen in natuur- den Bibeltext im Matthäusevangelium Kap. 16, Vers 19: words "And I will give unto thee the keys of the Kingdom lijke kleur, waarin met letter van sabel (zwart) gebeiteld Ich will dir des Himmels Schlüssel geben". of heaven, and whatever thou shalt bind on earth shall Im 15. Jahrhundert kommt zum ersten Male unter dem de Latijnse wapenspreuk: HAEC LIBERTATIS ERGO. be bound in heaven". Bildnis von St. Petrus ein Wappenschild mit zwei Deze spreuk betekent: Dit omwille van de vrijheid, en is gekreuzten Schlüsseln vor. Nach 1587 fehlt das Bildnis A shield with two crossed keys appears in the Arms for von St. Petrus im Stadtwappen. Von nun an erscheint afkomstig uit de eerste jaren van de 80-jarige oorlog the first time under the figure of St. Peter in the four- ein Wappenschild mit zwei gekreuzten Schlüsseln, und toen zij als randschrift diende voor het noodgeld. teenth century. After 1587 St. Peter is no longer shown. zwar in unterschiedlichen Formen; bald mit einem From then on the Arms consist of a shield with crossed sitzenden, bald mit einem stehenden Löwen, auch wohl keys with a variety of designs, among others a couchant mit je einem Löwen zu beiden Seiten der Schlüssel, lion, a rampant lion, and two rampant lions, one on darüber eine fünfzackige Krone. De vlag van Leiden either side of the shield, surmounted by a five-pointed Um alle diese verschiedenen Wappen durch ein neues, crown. To remove all uncertainties, the City Council von nun an gültiges Wappen zu ersetzen, bat der petitioned the crown in 1948 to re-define the coat of Magistrat der Stadt Leiden im Jahre 1948 die Königin, Hoe de Leidse vlag er vóór 1949 uitgezien heeft, blijkt arms in accordance with a design then submitted. das Wappen nach einem beigefügten Entwurf anerken- uit verschillende prenten en schilderijen die sinds de By royal decree of 1950 this design was declared to be nen und bestätigen zu wollen. 16e eeuw zijn gemaakt. the official coat of arms of the city of Leiden. Durch königlichen Erlass wurde 1950 dieser Entwurf als Daarop ziet men meestal de twee rode gekruiste The coat of arms is now as follows: Wappen der Stadt Leiden bestimmt. sleutels, op een achtergrond van rode en witte banen. A red rampant lion stands on a stone wall, carrying an In 1948 gaf het gemeentebestuur een deskundige unsheathed sword in its right claw, the sword slanting Das Wappen zeigt folgende Darstellung: opdracht om een officiële Leidse vlag te maken. upwards to the right. In front of the lion is a silver- Auf silbernem Grund zwei rote, schräggekreuzte In april 1948 werd dit ontwerp officiel vastgesteld door coloured shield bearing the crossed keys of St. Peter Schlüssel. Dieses Wappenschild lehnt gegen hochauf- de gemeenteraad. in red. The motto HAEC LIBERTATIS ERGO in black is gerichteten Löwen, der mit seiner rechten Pranke ein De vlag meet 3 X 2 meter en bestaat uit drie gelijkliggen- superimposed on the wall. blankes Schwert mit goldenem Knauf schwingt. de banen rood, wit en rood. Gewissermassen als Sockel darunter ein Stück Aan de broekzijde (dat is de kant, waar het touw is be- The translation of the motto is This because of freedom". Festungsmauer aus Felsgestein, das die Inschrift trägt: vestigd) bevinden zich twee gekruiste rode sleutels in The words were used on emergency coinage during the HAEC LIBERTATIS ERGO. Dieser Spruch bedeutet: Um een wit veld, omgeven door een rode cirkel. eighty-years war. der Freiheit willen. Er stammt aus den ersten Jahren des Freiheitskampfes gegen die Spanier. Auf den damals als Notgeld geprägten Münzen stand dieser Spruch als Randinschrift. We turn left and arrive via the Korevaarstraat the THE ROAD OF FREEDOM De Kloksteeg (Tower alley) runs down to (Cornstalkstreet) at the parkinglot the Garenmarkt During this walk we will try to give you an idea of the On the other side of the water we see th (Threadmarket). On the other side you see at the corner the small Synagogue (10), founded in 1762. road spirit of liberty that has always inspired Leiden and its building (5) where the University of Leide citizens. This sense of liberty was demonstrated in the housed since 1581. The University was resistance against the Spanish during the siege on February 8th. 1575. This building was of in 1574 until the relief of the city on 3 October. The spirit chapel of the White Nuns, but after the F of liberty is also manifest in Leiden's offering asylum to converted for the use of the University. T foreigners who had been forced to leave their own University is Praesidium Libertatis' (bast freedom country because of their religious convictions, amongst Over the years the University has spread others the Pilgrim Fathers. but this building has always remained its We walk on and arrive at the Van der Werfpark (11), called Route indicated by green arrows Returning to the other side of the Rapen after the burgomaster during the Spanish siege. In the The walk begins in front of the Town Hall (1) at the so- 'Het Duyvenhuis' (6) (The Pigeon House) middle of the park you find his statue, on the pedestal of which there are several pictures of the siege and the of called town cryer's stand, on the left side of the steps. Here the brothers Jan, Ulrich and Willem From this place on 3 October the town-clerk announced 3 musicians employed by the town, durir relief of Leiden. that the siege of the town by the Spanish had been were in touch by means of their homing- This park has been laid out on the site of the ruins raised. In the name of the municipal corporation he Prince of Orange, William the Silent, who caused by the explosion of a gunpowder boat on summoned the citizens to repair themselves to the After the relief they were given permissic January 12th 1807, which also severely damaged the Pieterskerk to thank God for this miraculous relief. Like themselves van Duyvenbode (homer-mes Saaihal (cloth hall) on the other side of the water. the citizens of Leiden in 1574 we walk towards this take a coat of arms in which doves are di church through the Pieterskerkchoorsteeg (alley leading to the choir of the Pieterskerk). It had been built around 1500 as a chapel for the hospital Almost at the end of the Pieterkerkchoorsteeg, on the A bit further on, opposite the mouth of th of St. James and after the reformation it was used as a right you'll see a small doorway a memorial plaque in admiral Boisot was welcomed by the mui cloth hall, an assay hall for certain kinds of textile. When bronze (2) at no. 17a. In the alley beyond was situated the corporation on 3 October 1574. He was the clandestine catholic church nearby had been printing office 'The Pilgrim Press' of William Brewster, of the 'watergeuzen' (Water-beggars), wh destroyed by the explosion of 1807 this building was one of the Pilgrim Fathers. Here the tracts were printed city. Here too the first loads of herring, c offered for the catholic services on the instance of King which criticized the Church of England. Diplomatic for the starving people were landed. Louis Napoleon. In this way the Lodewijkskerk (12) was pressure of King James I of England led to the closing of the first Roman Catholic Church which could be the printing office, but Brewster remained free and later recognised from the outside. left for North America on the 'Mayflower' with the Pilgrim Fathers. At the end of the park we cross the canal and walk along The Pieterskerk (3) is the oldest church of Leiden. We go on along the Rapenburg, turn righ the Steenschuur, passing the Lodewijkskerk, back to the A bronze plaque commemorating the Pilgrim Fathers has and walk back on the other side to the m Breestraat. Here we turn left. Back at the beginning of been placed on the outer wall of the baptistry. In the This we follow on the left-hand side of th our walk we arrive at the Town Hall. We take another chapel there is a memorial stone honouring the spiritual In 1574 the 'watergeuzen' entered the to look at the town cryer's stand. On the tablet we read a leader of the Pilgrim Fathers, John Robinson. Vliet and in 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers left poem by Jan van Hout. You should pay special attention Robinson and his followers had settled in Leiden in 1608, Delfshaven and North America. to the middle stanza, consisting of 6 lines. fleeing from the religious persecution of King James I We continue down the gracht and see or The number of letters of this stanza is equal to the to a place where they could live in accordance with their side the Pilgrim Fathers Documentation ( number of days the siege lasted (129). The gilt letters beliefs. In 1620 some of them left for North America where have to be read as Roman figures and counted together they founded New Plymouth and became known as the they give the year 1574. Pilgrim Fathers. Robinson, however remained in Leiden till his death in Turning left onto the Boisotkade and cros 1625 and lived in the house called 'De groene poort' Doezastraat we arrive at the Jan van Hou (the green gate). At the site of this house on the left after the town-clerk who, together with Ja Edition: VVV Leiden (Kloksteeg no. 21) you'll now find the Jean Pesijnshofje (4) and burgomaster van de Werf, led the de Stationsplein 210 (an Almshouse). resistance during the siege. The bastion 2312 AR Leiden (9) (Austria), at the end of this quay, is th tel. 071 146846 the city wall on this side of the town, a la which collapsed during the last night of 1 MONUMENTEN VAN LEIDEN schufters P MONUMENTS DE LEYDE sch kooilaan MONUMENTE IN LEIDEN STATION MONUMENTS OF LEIDEN 0 me A Stadhuis B Pieterskerk rd e n S g Hôtel de Ville Eglise St. Pierre N Rathaus St. Peterskirche P P ] Town Hall St. Peter's Church I a n g e g r a C ht P c Academie D Gravensteen P age ijndijk L'Académie Ancienne prison Gravensteen" 11 OKA Universität S n g e Ehemaliges Gefängnis Gravensteen' d e University Former prison Gravensteen" o di e V S P E Gemeenlandshuis van het F Waaggebouw E Hoogheemraadschap van Rijnland Poids Public Administration des Eaux du département rhénan mo r Stadtwaage Deich- und Wasserverband von Rijnland" Weighing-house Waters-administration of the Rhineland M district P m m m e - G Hooglandse- of St. Pancraskerk H De Burcht P L'Eglise St. Pancrace Chateau-à-motte m ч nd e e St. Pancratius Kirche Der Burg O / S St. Pancras' Church Motte Castle H t e E e n J g Koornbeursbrug K 6 St. Lodewijkskerk 6 Pont Bourse-aux-blés Eglise St. Louis e e C C Kornbörsbrücke St. Ludwigskirche C D 2 4 ч Corn Exchange Bridge St. Louis' Church G t L Morspoort M Stadstimmerwerf Porte de ville "Mors" Chantier de ville B Stadttor "Mors" Städtischer Werkstatt 4 h hoge "Mors" City Gate Municipal Carpenters' Yard woerd P N 6 Korenmolen De Valk" O Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal" 10 Moulin à blé Le Faucon" Musée municipal De Lakenhal" < 11 di a e n Kornmühle Die Falke" Städtisches Museum De Lakenhal" I e V P Corn-mill The Hawk" Municipal Museum De Lakenhal" P Q Mare Kerk R Zijlpoort fruinlaan L'Eglise "Mare" Porte de ville Zijl" Mare" Kirche Stadttor Zijl" Mare" Church Zijl" City Gate Auteursrecht VVV-Leiden Druk: Rutgers B.V., Leiderdorp Ontwerp: Loridan Studio, Leiden At the corner of the Groenhazengracht we see the last Leiden, LEIDEN, A TOWN FULL OF MONUMENTS. Leaving the Burcht-ground we turn right into pothuis" in Leiden (low addition to the house). We turn right This route has the form of a cracknel and leads us through and arrive at the Corn-Exchange Bridge (7) onto the Rapenburg and see, at nr. 25, the Bibliotheca the old centre, past the principal monuments of Leiden. this bridge, built before 1440, formerly the C Thysiana (13), built in 1655 by the town-architect Arent a town Some of them date from the Middle Ages (de Burcht), others held. In 1825 the bridge was roofed. On the van 's Gravensande. Walking back to the Doelenbrug we from the 17th century. the Rijn we see the town hall designed by C pass at nr. 31 the house of Boerhaave (14), the famous full of replace the old one burnt down in 1929. physician of the 18th century. From the Corn-Exchange Bridge we go strai Breestraat where we turn right and have a Ic monuments. renaissance facade of the town hall (8) Over the Doelenbrug we go into the Houtstraat to the ROUTE INDICATED BY BLUE ARROWS. This facade was designed by Lieven de Key Gravensteen (15) already mentioned in 1352. The oldest The walk begins near the blue stone (1) in the middle of the against the already existing town hall by Lud part is formed by the square and the octagonal towers in Breestraat, between Pieterskerkchoorsteeg and Maarsman- (1597). It is the only part that could be resto the centre of the complex. Before 1463 this building was steeg. On this stone sentences were executed and Leiden- of 1929. In the facade you see the rings on the count's prison, later, until deep into the 19th century, cloth, found faulty, was publicly burnt. We walk along the fastened their horses. Behind the town cryel the municipal prison. The dark part at the left was the house Maarsmansteeg down to the Visbrug and St. Jansbrug (both place of the official proclamations - we see of correction, the projecting part at the right was the session bridges already mentioned circa 1200), linked by the measure of the Rijnlandse Roede", which is room of the magistrates, both 17th century. On the raised Hoogstraat. Here, in the middle of the town, the old" and Voet" or 3.7674 meters. part in front of the gallery - in the language of the people new" Rijn meet again after their split east of the town. called Fair Sorrow" - the executions took place. Nowadays this building is the seat of the Law Faculty. Nearly opposite, at the corner of the Schoolsteeg and the Standing in the Hoogstraat facing West, we see at the left We reach St. Peter's Church (9) through the Lokhorststraat, you see the Latin School (16) with its side of the water the Weigh-House (2), built in 1658 by choorsteeg. This church was built in the 151 stepped gable and red and white shutters, built in 1599 and Pieter Post for all official weighings. On your right you see first parish church, very much smaller, was ( in use until 1864. Many famous people went to school here, the Huys ter Lucht (3). This house, as if rising out of the the bishop of Utrecht - in accordance with 1 among whom Rembrandt. Through the Lokhorststraat and river, many times rebuilt and restored, originally dates from custom - in 1121. We turn right and see the the Diefsteeg we arrive at the Breestraat. the 14th century. Over the St. Jansbrug and through the at nr. 22 (Huys in de Hoeck) dating from the On the other side of the street we see, to the right of the Donkersteeg we arrive in the Haarlemmerstraat, a busy We pass the church and see on our right th pompous facade with the pillars of the municipal concert shopping street, where we turn right and right again into the (the Count's Stone House) with its red and ' hall, the Walloon Church (17). It is the only remaining part third alley (the Hooglandse Kerksteeg). Going over the cast which we'll see later from the other side. Op of the St. Catherine's hospital, dating from 1276. iron drawbridge, we arrive at the Hooglandse Kerkgracht front of the church used to be the churchyai vaulted over long ago like many canals in Leiden. collapsed in 1512 and was never rebuilt. At the beautifully restored Gemeenlandshuis of the At nr. 17 we see the entrance to the Holy Ghost or Poor-, We follow the arrows through the Kloksteeg Hoogheemraadschap Rijnland (18), seat of the Waterboard Orphans- and Children's Home (4) from 1607. Over the Nonnenbrug to the Academy Building (10) C of the Rhine district from the 16th century, we come to the entrance there is a (damaged) sculpture indicating the Rapenburg. This former cloister-chapel of th end of our walk. purpose of the building: a dove, symbol of the Holy Ghost, has been the centre of Leiden University sin The task of the Waterboard has shifted from protection extends its wing protectively over a few orphans: In the Beyond is the Hortus Botanicus (Botanical ( against the water to the care for the quality of the water. courtyard you are still aware of the atmosphere of times laid out in 1594. At the Doelenbrug we turn gone by. This complex, 3 facades wide, now houses the Doelensteeg. At nr. 17 we see the almshous National Museum of Geology and Mineralogy. At the end of Hoogeveen hofje" (12). Leiden still has 35 ,,I the Hooglandse Kerkgracht we see the St. Pancras- or of almshouses, in which the aged are house Highland Church (5), built in 1315 as a wooden church. The accordance with the terms of the foundation actual church dates from circa 1500, but was never completed. present, young people. The nave is much lower than the transept and the choir as At the end of this alley we turn right along th we can see from the square we reach when we go left former grounds of the barracks, on the other around the church. The low tower, built in the nave, is at canal, used to be the practice grounds of the Edition: VVV Leiden least 600 years old. Following the arrows we arrive at the this Doelengracht and on the corner of the G Stationsplein 210 corner of the Nieuwstraat where we see the gate of the gracht, for which we are heading, some hous 2312 AR Leiden Burcht (Citadel) (6), built in the middle of the 12th century restored giving us thus a good idea of what S tel. 071-146846 on an artificial mound. The big gate in the wall is decorated looked like in former days. At the Groenhaze with the coats of arms of the mayors who, between 1651 cross two bridges. Looking back we see the and 1764, also acted as viscounts. The original entrance is (gate) from the 17th century. the small gate on the other side of the wall. MONUMENTEN VAN LEIDEN schutters P MONUMENTS DE LEYDE isch STATION - haar weg kooilaan MONUMENTE IN LEIDEN " V MONUMENTS OF LEIDEN A m Stadhuis B ord Pieterskerk g e S Hôtel de Ville Eglise St. Pierre N Rathaus P St. Peterskirche P Town Hall St. Peter's Church a n g e g r a C h t P C Academie D P Gravensteen lage ijndijk L'Académie Ancienne prison "Gravensteen" S n g e I Universität Ehemaliges Gefängnis Gravensteen di e V S University Former prison Gravensteen" P E Gemeenlandshuis van het F Waaggebouw Hoogheemraadschap van Rijnland Administration des Eaux du département Poids Public rhénan Stadtwaage Sitz des Deichgrafenamtes Weighing-house M Waters-administration of the Rhineland district P m m G H Hooglandse- of St. Pancraskerk De Burcht I P L'Eglise St. Pancrace Chateau-à-motte d e - St. Pancratius Kirche Die Burg S 17 H O St. Pancras' Church e Motte Castle E 4 e n 6 6 K g Koornbeursbrug St. Lodewijkskerk 6 13 Pont Bourse-aux-blés a a Eglise St. Louis 14 6 C C Kornbörsbrücke St. Ludwigskirche C 4 h Corn Exchange Bridge St. Louis' Church 12 L M Morspoort Stadstimmerwerl 9 B Porte de ville "Mors" Chantier de ville Stadttor "Mors" Städtische Werkstatt P hoge rijndijk Mors" City Gate Municipal Carpenters' Yard 10 K woerd P N O Korenmolen De Valk" Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal" Moulin à blé Le Faucon" Musée municipal De Lakenhal" d a a V e n e Kornmühle Die Falke" Städtisches Museum De Lakenhal" P Corn-mill The Hawk" Municipal Museum De Lakenhal" P Q Mare Kerk R Zijlpoort fruinlaan L'Eglise "Mare" Porte de ville Zijl" "Mare" Kirche Stadttor Zijl" "Mare" Church Zijl" City Gate Auteursrecht VVV Leiden Druk: Rutgers B.V., Leiderdorp Ontwerp: Loridan Studio, Leiden Following the arrows we turn into the Herensteeg, leading Leiden, LEIDEN, A TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE. For a good view of this part of the town WI to the Pieterskerk (St Peter's Church) (11) dating from the Leiden is a typical example of a Dutch town with its canals bridge to the Oude Singel where we turn beginning of the 15th century. It is much bigger than of former days. The town-development from the 14th to the on the corner of the Oude Vest and the Ja Leiden's first parish church consecrated in 1120. Via the a true 17th century is clearly betrayed in the town-plan by its wide spout-gable surmounted by a Statue of a former churchyard, to the left, we reach the Gravensteen canals, former moats. here used to be a pharmacy. (Count's Hall) (12), formerly a prison, now the seat of the Law Faculty of Leiden-University. Dutch This walk shows Leiden's dependence on water, situated as it is on natural and artificial watercourses. A "leede" is a watercourse, so the name of Leiden may be interpreted as heritage (town) on the watercourses". The S. front with its red and white shutters and the dark Route indicated by red arrows At the next bridge we turn back to the Out house of correction beside it date from the 17th century. The walk begins at the Blauwpoortsbrug (Blue Gate Bridge) at nr. 159 the stately almshouse Meerman The first building of this block dates from the 13th century (1), until 1610 the NW entry into the town. Standing on the in 1683 by the couple Meerman-Verburg. and is to be seen on the other side, the square and bridge we see the Haarlemmerstraat, which in fact is the courtyard is surmounted by a merman wit the octogenal tower in the centre. N. Rhinedike. Looking back we see the 1669 Morspoort (2) sword defending a citadel, depicting the r On the corner of the Schoolsteeg (Schoolalley) and the Lok- (mors = land surrounded by water), one of the two remaining founders. At the bridge with the parapet to horststraat you find the Latijnse School (Latin School) (13) towngates. we turn right into the Pelikaanstraat (Pelic with its step roof and red and white shutters, built in 1599 the traffic lights left into the Haarlemmers and in use until 1864 as a grammar school. on the Havenplein (Docksquare), we are a many watercourses. Straight ahead of us, we see the tower of the Zijlpoort (Waterw built in 1667 and is the other remaining tc By way of the Schoolsteeg, just as narrow as it was 500 From the bridge we turn left onto the Turfmarkt (Peatmarket) From the Havenplein we walk on the left S years ago, we reach the Langebrug (Long Bridge), where we and right into the Caeciliastraat. Now you are in De along the Kalvermarkt (Calves Market) and turn left onto the Rapenburg. Looking back we may see the Camp", the site of several monasteries in the Middle Ages. Herengracht (Gentlemen's Moat). Here th tower of the University and some facades of 17th and 18th 100 m further we arrive at the St. Elisabethgasthuis (St on both sides of the water by the well-to-d century patrician houses. Following the arrows we arrive Elisabeth hospital) (3) founded in 1428 and restored working class lined behind them on the na at the Bostelbrug over the Rhine. From this bridge we look to between 1966 and 1970. In the sidewall of the hospital canals. We cross the first bridge over the the right into the heart of the town, where the North (or old) coloured tiles depict scenes from the life of the Holy Elisa- where some houses have kept their 17th and the South (or new) Rhine meet again after their split at beth. Later additions extend along the street, eg. the chapel At the next bridge we pass, on the corner the East side of the town. (about 1500) on the corner of the Lijsbethsteeg (Elisabeth's (Green Alley), a flowershop (9), where the Alley). The buildings now house a nursing home for the 17th century house are distinguishable. chronically-sick and aged. Ahead you see the wide Galgewater (Gallowswater), on the Turning left into the Lijsbethsteeg we arrive at the Oude At the end of the Herengracht we turn righ right bank the Stadstimmerwerf (Municipal Carpenters Vest (Old Rampart). Here until 1610 stood the rampart Rijn (New Rhine). In the third street on the Yard) (14) with its step-roof and red and white shutters, built topped by the town wall. Across the water you see the town ste Gracht (The Middle Canal), we find on in 1612 when the large N. extension of the town was started. museum, built between 1638 and 1640 by Arent van Annahofje (10) dating from 1507. In the cli We are now back at the Blauwpoortsbrug where we started. 's Gravesande as a Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) (4) a Guild Hall house it is rare for an almshouse to have We walked along the moats, once the outer defence ring of where cloth was tested and sold. is the only altar in Leiden having survived Leiden. The town centre spread out to the present moas so The gables on the Oude Vest and Oude Singel (Old Moat) iconoclasts of 1566. that it is the second largest in the Netherlands, Amsterdam characterise Leiden as a typical Dutch town. being first. When, turning to the right, we arrive at the first bridge We continue our walk along the Nieuwe R and see the Marekerk (Waterwaychurch) (5) in front of us. Ganzenoordbrug (Goose Region Bridge) This church was built between 1638 and 1648 by Arent van (Hay Canal) and walk on upto the next bric Edition: VVV Leiden 's Gravesande as the first protestant church in Leiden. Karnemelksbrug (Buttermilk Bridge) we ha The Mare itself was filled up in 1953. market which has been held for centuries Stationsplein 210 and Saturdays. Continuing to the traffic lig 2312 AR Leiden Gangetje (Alley) and the Breestraat (Wide tel. 071-146846 along the Steenschuur, Leiden's oldest me 1200. The van der Werfpark, on the other was laid out at the end of last century on tl vacant in 1807 as a result of the explosior MONUMENTEN VAN LEIDEN sch schufters P MONUMENTS DE LEYDE STATION haarlemmerweg kooilaan MONUMENTE IN LEIDEN MONUMENTS OF LEIDEN weg A Stadhuis B Pieterskerk d g Hôtel de Ville Eglise St. Pierre S N nswes Rathaus St Peterskirche P P Town Hall St Peter's Church a n g e g r a C ht P C Academie . Gravensteen P indijk L'Académie Ancienne prison Gravensteen" OLD4 U lage Universität Ehemaliges Gefängnis Gravensteen" S n e di e g University Former prison Gravensteen" o u di e V P 6 7 E Gemeenlandshuis van het Waaggebouw 3 Hoogheemraadschap van Rijnland 3 Poids Public Administration des Eaux du département rhénan morsstraa Stadtwaage Sitz des Deichgrafenamtes Weighing-house Waters-administration of the Rhineland M district P m e G Hooglandse- of St. Pancraskerk H De Burcht P DD L'Eglise St. Pancrace Chateau-à-motte h n d St. Pancratius Kirche Die Burg e S St. Pancras' Church Motte Castle E H - e - e D 6 g J Koornbeursbrug K St. Lodewijkskerk 6 Pont Bourse-aux-blés Eglise St. Louis a 9 a a Kornbörsbrücke St Ludwigskirche 13 C C C h h Corn Exchange Bridge St Louis' Church G 4 L Morspoort M Stadstimmerwerf 10 Porte de ville "Mors" Chantier de ville B Stadttor "Mors" Städtische Werkstatt P Mors" City Gate Municipal Carpenters' Yard h hoge rijndijk K woerd P N Korenmolen De Valk" Stedelijk useum De Lakenhal" Moulin à blé Le Faucon" Musée municipal De Lakenhal" < V e n di a a Kornmühle Die Falke" Städtisches Museum De Lakenhal" e P Corn-mill The Hawk" Municipal Museum De Lakenhal" P 8 Mare Kerk R Zijlpoort L'Eglise Mare" Porte de ville Zijl" fruinlaan "Mare" Kirche Stadttor Zijl" "Mare" Church Zijl" City Gate Auteursrecht VVV Leiden Druk: Rutgers B.V., Leiderdorp Ontwerp: Loridan Studio, Leiden nere turn en through the monumental gate and you WIII rina FULLOWING IN REMBRANDIS FOUISTERS um ien, cross the Nonnenbrug and go su yourself in the grounds of the old castle (Burchtcomplex). The castle (25) consists of a man-made hillock crowned by a Rembrandt The greatest of all Dutch painters, Rembrandt Harmensz van the Kloksteeg. At number 21 is the Jean P Rijn, was born on July 15th 1606 in a house in the built on the side of the 'Groene Poort' hou: circular wall dating from ± 1150. From the battlements there Weddesteeg in Leiden. His father, Harmen Gerritsz van Rijn, John Robinson, the spiritual leader of the I is an interesting view of the old city. After you have looked walk was a miller an important occupation in those days. His lived (1611-1625) with a number of his follo around, take the 'Van der Sterrepad' to the right of the mother was Neeltje van Zuytbrouck. further on, on the wall of the baptistry of tl ''t Koetshuis' restaurant until you come to the Oude Rijn. there is a bronze plaque (14) commemorati Turn left, walk to the end of the street, turn right over the St. the Pilgrim Fathers to America aboard the John's Bridge (St. Jansbrug) and into the Donkersteeg until following in you reach the Haarlemmerstraat. Turning left you will see before you the Hartebrugkerk (26) which dates from 1836. rembrandts footsteps Continue along the Haarlemmerstraat and turn right into the The route for this walk is indicated by yellow arrows. Turn left now and in front of you you will S Vrouwenkerkkoorstraat Before you you will see the dome of Turn right out of the VVV Office and right again at the traffic Gravensteen' (15) originally the County pris the Marekerk (27) dating from the middle of the 17th Century lights, taking you into the Stationsweg (station-road). From become the municipal prison and now use and built by Arent van s-Gravensande. On your left are the the bridge over the Morssingel you will see on your left law. In front of this building turn right and remains of the old Vrouwenkerk (28) which originally dates Cornmill 'De Valk' (1), built in 1743 and now serving as a Muskadelsteeg. Here, at what used to be h from 1330. In the floor can be seen the outline of the church museum about milling. To your right are the Boerhaave where Rembrandt's sister lived with her hu which stood there originally. museum (2) and the Museum of Ethnology (3). Jan van Lingen. From 1625-1631 Rembrand Turn left into Vrouwenkerkhof and continue straight into the Proceed straight ahead to Steenstraat, turning right into the probably using as his studio (16) the room Lange St. Agnietenstraat. To your right you will see the 1e Binnenvestgracht. Following the bend you will see on your building on the first floor. It is possible tha 'Boerhaave Zalen' (29) which are in need of renovation. right the Morspoort (4), built in 1669 by Willem van der Helm. studio with his friend Jan Lievens (1607-167 Directly before you the gable of the Latin S Rembrandt attended from 1614-1620. Built at the end of the 16th Century as a cloister, it was later Continue by entering the grounds of the Old Morspoort In front of this building turn right into Lokt used as a hospital for mental patients and sufferers from the Barracks and you will see on your right a bastion with then left into Pieterskerkgracht where at nu plague. It was here that the world-famous professor of beautiful views onto the Galgewater and the River Rhine. beautifully renovated house of the Leiden Medicine, Herman Boerhaave, and his successors taught at Cross the Rembrandt bridge, from which you will see behind Aemula Naturae, 18). Cross the street, turn the bedside: consequently this can be regarded as the first you the City Carpenter's Yard (5) built in 1612. Rembrandt, into Berkendaalstraatje until you come to t academic hospital. who lived nearby, must surely have admired its beautiful Turn right here and at no. 89 (19) you will fi Before you stands the Groot Sionshof (30), founded in 1480 architecture. Now you go into the Weddesteeg where which Rembrandt's tutor, Jacob Swanenbu and moved to this site in 1668. Continue straight over Rembrandt was born, and where he lived for the most part of lived following his return from Italy in 1617 Klooster and then turn right into Lange Lijsbethsteeg. On his life in Leiden. His birthplace is commemorated with a Rembrandt worked and studied 1620/24 bei your left you will see the Sint Elisabethgasthuis (31) which tablet whereas the little square opposite (6) gives extra temporarily to Amsterdam to study with Pi dates from 1428 and has been beautifully renovated. emphasis to this historic place. (1583-1633). Cross the bridge and turn left into the Oude Singel. At Continuing along the Weddesteeg turn left into Noordeinde Now turn left into the Wolsteeg and again number 32 you will find the Municipal Museum 'De and then right into the Oude Varkenmarkt (Old Pig Market). Breestraat. To your right the splendid renai Lakenhal' (32), by Arent van 's-Gravensande (1638-1640). This Here at number 1 is the Loridanshofje (7) an almshouse the Town Hall (20), 16th century, which esc museum houses a historically important painting of founded in 1657 according to instructions left in the will of in the fire of 1929. At the traffic lights turn Rembrandt (1626) and works by his tutors Jacob Swanenburg one Peter Loridan, a wealthy wool dyer. Since its renovation it Breestraat and you will notice "the blue st and Pieter Lastman, his friend Jan Lievens, his pupils Carel has become a student's residence. place for executions and where poor qualit van der Pluym and Govert Flinck as well as paintings by other At the end of the market you will notice a monumental gate (8) burned. contemporaries. Continue the Oude Singel and turn right into marking the entrance to the former Stadsdoelen (the Butts) Nieuwe Beestenmarkt where you will notice the mill 'De Valk' you should recognise St. George and the Dragon. To your in front of you. At the end, cross over and turn left into 2e right are the remains of the old armoury. Binnenvestgracht. Turn right into Steenstraat and Stations- weg, the end of this walk. You now cross the bridge and continue along the Straight into the Maarsmansteeg where the Groenhazengracht until you reach Rapenburg. On the corner chemist Christiaen Porret was situated. It i you will see the Thysiana Library (9), built in 1654/5 by Arent Rembrandt was fascinated by Porret's colle van 's-Gravensande. Turn right into Rapenburg and at no. 31 objects when auctioned on 28th March 162 you will see the town house of the famous Professor of the alleyway turn right into the Vismarkt ar Medicine Herman Boerhaave (10). At number 73 is the will notice a fountain (22) and stone slabs ( Academy building (11), formerly the chapel for the Convent of cleaned prior to sale. Turn left and cross th the White Nuns. It is here that Rembrandt registered as a the old corn exchange: it was built before 1 student on 20th May 1620. The entry reads: 'Rembrandus date from 1825. Continue into the Brugstee Hermanni Leydensis an 14 Stud.Litt. appud parentus'. which you see to your right the tower of th Behind the 2nd gate is the oldest botanical garden in Europe, Church (24). MONUMENTEN VAN LEIDEN schufters P MONUMENTS DE LEYDE sch STATION haarlemmerweg kooilaan MONUMENTE IN LEIDEN MONUMENTS OF LEIDEN A Stadhuis B Pieterskerk rd S n g. e Hôtel de Ville e n Eglise St. Pierre N Rathaus St. Peterskirche P P Town Hall St. Peter's Church THE langegracht P C Academie D Gravensteen P lage ijndijk L'Académie Ancienne prison "Gravensteen" U S n g e Universität Ehemaliges Gefängnis Gravensteen" o di e are University Former prison Gravensteen" o di e V S 3 P 31 E Gemeenlandshuis van het F Waaggebouw Hoogheemraadschap van Rijnland 3 Poids Public Administration des Eaux du département 29 rhénan Stadtwaage 5 30 Sitz des Deichgrafenamtes Weighing-house M 7/28 Waters-administration of the Rhineland h district P m G Hooglandse- of St. Pancraskerk H De Burcht P L'Eglise St. Pancrace Chateau-à-motte 6 nd e St. Pancratius Kirche Die Burg 1 S St. Pancras' Church Motte Castle E H e 7 e n J Koornbeursbrug K 8 g St. Lodewijkskerk 6 Pont Bourse-aux-blés Eglise St. Louis 9 2 a a a C C Kornbörsbrücke St. Ludwigskirche 10 D 4 ч Corn Exchange Bridge St. Louis' Church G 19 L Morspoort M Stadstimmerwerf Porte de ville "Mors" Chantier de ville 11 Stadttor "Mors" Städtische Werkstatt 2 13 h hoge rijndijk "Mors" City Gate Municipal Carpenters' Yard K woerd P N h Korenmolen De Valk" Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal" Moulin à blé "Le Faucon" < Musée municipal De Lakenhal" V n di a a Kornmühle Die Falke" Städtisches Museum De Lakenhal" 1 e P Corn-mill The Hawk" Municipal Museum De Lakenhal" P Q Mare Kerk R Zijlpoort fruinlaan L Eglise "Mare" Porte de ville Zijl" Mare" Kirche Stadttor Zijl" Mare" Church Zijl" City Gate Auteursrecht VVV-Leiden Druk: Rutgers B.V., Leiderdorp Ontwerp: Loridan Studio, Leiden Illustrations LEIDEN TOWN HALL Wijnkraan at the rear of the Town Hall. With the purchase of those houses, previously owned by Wermbout and Alijt in p. 3 The Town Hall in 1587 the middle ages, the Town Hall had attained its largest size. p. 4 The Town Hall around 1890 During years following, work was carried out on the Leiden's monumental Town Hall is situated between the building's interior and exterior. For example, a new steeple p. 5 The Town Hall in 1984 Breestraat and the Vismarkt on the banks of the Rhine. was constructed in 1460. p. 6 Council Chamber, Burgomaster and Aldermen's Actually Leiden's Town Hall has two entirely different faces; Restoration work had to be carried out quite unexpectedly Chamber the old façade on the Breestraat side, which was designed in 1481 after gunpowder, which was stored in the Town Hall, The Court of Chancery before the 1929 fire by Lieven de Key and built around 1600, and the "new" exploded and completely devastated the council-chamber. Town Hall on the Vismarkt side, designed by an architect p. 7 The Town Hall in 1928 - one year before the fire named Blaauw in 1932. Both old and new façades bear visible witness to Leiden The 16th Century p. 9 Source: Leidsch Dagblad, February 12th 1929 Town Hall's long history, a history you will learn more about Thanks to its textile trade the town flourished in the years p. 10 The remnants of the steeple... (Vismarkt) from this brochure. after the siege in 1574. The council felt that this should be p. 12 Town clerk Jan van Hout's "Cry of distress" reflected in the Town Hall's outward appearance and it was The earliest Town Halls with this in mind that Lieven de Key was commisioned to p. 13 "Peace" As far as can be traced, Leiden already had a Town Hall as design a new façade. Apart from his work on the Leiden p. 13 The Town Crier's Seat far back as 1350; a Town Hall that was no more than a Town Hall, de Key was also the architect who designed simple steepled building with a meeting room on the first Haarlem Town Hall, the Waag in Gouda and other major p. 14 An eel sniggler floor for the municipal authorities. However, on the night of projects. The construction of the new façade in Breestraat p. 15 Group of figures including Count Floris V August 24th 1381 a fire broke out and it was burnt to the took two years to complete (1595-1597). p. 18 The Van de Werf family-crest ground. The building behind the façade remained as it was and the finishing touch to the external part of the construction was p. 18 Entrance Vismarkt: the civic hall Around 1410 it was decided that the Town Hall, which had formed by the steeple, which remained intact until the fire meanwhile been rebuilt, had become too small and the in 1929. p. 19 Windrose business of extension was tackled on a large scale; This steeple replaced the wooden one which had been p. 19 Interior neighbouring houses and grounds being purchased. constructed, after a fire in January 1573. p. 20 Council Chamber The Cloth Hall (inspection and vending hall for cloth) and meat-market were incorporated in this much larger building From the 17th Century on p. 22 The entrance hall in 1979 (the Cloth Hall on the first floor and the meat-market at The interior design of the Town Hall also underwent various p. 23 The entrance hall in 1984 street level). stages of embellishment. Jan Lievens decorated the The old cloth hall was sold and the cutters housed magnificent mantelpiece in the chamber used for meetings temporarily in the wool market. The old meat-market was by the Town Elders, a body of civic governors, now called also sold. the Town Council. In 1426 a room was created on the ground floor of the Town This brochure comprises information extracted from the following The rooms used by the four burgomasters for their Hall where the aldermen could meet. There was also a room publications: meetings, and the rooms used by higher authorities, such available for the Tribunal, the four burgomasters. as the Court, were renovated and decorated with Gobelin - Het Leidse stadhuis, L.C.J. Roozen tapestries. - Het Leidse stadhuis, bouw- verbouw- herbouw The founding of the "College der Veertigraden" (the Board The mantelpiece in the burgomaster's chamber was 10 februari-25 maart 1979 de Lakenhal- Leiden of Town Elders) in 1449 made it necessary to create even painted by Ferdinand Bol and depicted the town's - Hutspot, Haring en Wittebrood, tien eeuwen Leiden en de more room for meetings. administration. Leidenaars De Kler-Waanders This Board of Town Elders, a forerunner of what we now The four burgomasters took care of the town's finances, know as the Town Council, was faced with the task of maintenance of its canals and the town-wall and other Tekst: Janneke van Haastrecht - Information Dept. Leiden Foto's: Dirk Ketting, Leiden finding a way to extend the premises again. various municipal tasks. Leiden Municipal Archives The adjacent house, belonging to Wermbout Janszoon, was Loridan B.V. bought in 1455 and subsequently became part of the Town The sheriff, aldermen and burgomasters formed the Court. Layout: Loridan B.V., Hans van Oosterom, Leiden Hall. This house can be seen on the extreme left of the The Court, in turn, formed the town's governing body. Printed by Drukkerij Beugelsdijk Leiden B.V. drawing dating from 1587 (page 3), the three-windowed It was only in 1808 that all the various governing bodies building which rises above the parapeted part. were abolished. Just one single person, the burgomaster, The decision was also taken in 1457 to purchase the house was empowered with governing the town, assisted by four 1st edition: December 1984. and grounds owned by Alijt Trompers, situated next to the aldermen. 1 The Board of Burgomaster and Aldermen was established The front on Breestraat-side would then serve as the in 1824, a board which functioned the same way then as it façade for a completely new town hall built behind it. A civil servant, employed at the local power station, does today. On July 11th 1932 the Leiden Council decided to invite six As members of the board of supervisors the curators of the who was helping to hoist up a fire nozzle received architects to submit a design. university had been allowed to use the Town Hall for their severe injuries when it came loose from the hose and Burgomaster and Aldermen, the Town Council and the meetings since the 16th century. They were provided with hit him on the head. He was taken to hospital on a committee, agreed that the best design had been their own chamber in 1681, a room which they used up to stretcher. A number of police officers also received submitted by C.J. Blaauw (IR) of Haarlem. Blaauw was 1811. hand wounds from glass splinters as the windows commisioned in July 1934 and the restoration of the façade shattered. At about 7 a.m. the Chief Commissioner of took from January 1935 to September 1939 to complete. On The link between governmental and judicial authorities was Police from The Hague, Mr van 't Sant, arrived at the the 17th of December 1940 the burgomaster and aldermen also severed. The administration of justice and matters scene. moved into their offices in the new Town Hall. concerning taxes became matters to be dealt with by the The fire was soon under control in Breestraat although there was an immediate risk of the buildings opposite state. The aldermen's chamber became the council chamber. The the Town Hall catching fire due to the curtain of sparks The new Town Hall Court of Chancery, in which individual trustees had taken blowing in that direction. The premises at risk were care of Leiden's orphans since about 1450 and the meat- from professor Can's house right up to Pieterskerk- market, where meat quality was controlled, were koorsteeg. Members of the fire brigade were however Blaauw's assignment was equally difficult as that of Lieven able to keep the house fronts and eaves wet and fully de Key in 1595. discontinued in the 19th century. The judicial authorities moved to Rapenburg 19, the location control the fire from spreading further. Lieven de Key's task had been to erect a new façade in front of the existing Town Hall which dated from the middle- of the present Cantonal Court, making more space available ages; Blaauw's task was to design a completely new town for the ever-growing municipal machinery. (Leidsch Dagblad, 12 February 1929.) hall behind an existing façade. Breestraat, which was previously a dike, is much higher The 1929 fire The first hose was brought into operation succesfully but than the Vismarkt and if you enter the Town Hall via the "The Town Hall's burning...." problems arose with the second one. Various water-cocks steps in Breestraat you find that you are on the second and pipes had frozen up making it impossible to draw floor on the Vismarkt side. The cry that the Town Hall was burning echoed through all water. This is the reason why the Town Hall has two entirely Leiden's streets on the morning of 12th February 1929. It The strong wind blew the flames from the Vismarkt side different faces; the Breestraat façade, which is the longest was on this ill-fated day that a magnificent piece of through the windows and corridors and the situation had renaissance façade in the Netherlands, long and low (86 architecture was destroyed and within the space of three become far too dangerous to enter the Town Hall. metres in lenght and 10 metres high), and massive and high and a half hours, all the art treasures inside its walls were The shout that the steeple had also caught fire was soon on the Rhine side. lost forever! heard; it crashed with a deafening roar before six o'clock. Because of the extreme low temperatures, all of the Town When the whole of the façade was one massive inferno it Works of art - inside and outside the Town Hall Hall's stoves had been left burning and all connecting was feared that the fire would spread. Leiden's fire brigade doors left open in order to heat the corridors. was almost powerless and soon the men were only able to The outside of the Town Hall try to protect the buildings opposite. Thanks to assistance The fire was discovered by a night watchman at around four from the fire brigades from Leiderdorp, Oegstgeest and If you stand in front of the Breestraat façade, to the left you o'clock in the morning and the fire brigade and police were Voorschoten at about eight o'clock in the morning of will see a small gate. This gate was at the rear of the Town contacted immediately. February 13th the danger of the fire spreading even further Hall before the fire in 1670 and on the Vismarkt side there had been eliminated. By that time the Town Hall had been was no square to be found then, but a continuous row of At twenty-five past four, the fire brigade received a reduced to a forlorn ruin. shops and houses. telephone call from the telephonist on duty at the Queen Wilhelmina and Prince Hendrik came to view the Two reclining children, to the left "time" and to the right Bloemmarkt (now the Boommarkt) telephone exchange extent of the fire on February the 14th and messages of "eternity" can be seen on the steps leading up to the main informing them that a fire had broken out in the Town Hall sympathy were received from all parts of the country. entrance. on the Vismarkt side. Because of the fierce frost (at least 18 The two female figures seen in the alcoves next to the door degrees below zero) the number of men on duty at the fire station had been increased, consequently it was possible Reconstruction depict justice (with her sword and guilded scales) and peace (with guilded olive twig and law book). to deploy both of the town's fire engines. After the Town Hall had been destroyed by fire of February 12th 1929 the question arose whether a completely new The cry of distress hewn into the Breestraat façade was Town Hall should be built. The only other possibility was to written by Jan van Hout, Leiden's famous town clerk. restore the façade that had been designed by Lieven de The lines of this verse written in capital letters contain as Key. many letters as days Leiden endured under seige; from the 2 26th of May up to and including the 2nd of October 1574. The style of the civic hall façade, to the left of the steeple, is A completely new carillon with 47 bells was then installed in The gold painted capital letters (underlined in the Dutch most like the old façade. The sculptured masonry, to the left the new Town Hall steeple. text below) add up to the date 1574. The date on which of the steeple, the work of Ms Franzen-Heslenfeld, portray However, these bells were stolen by the Germans during Leiden was liberated. from left to right: the occupation in 1943 and only 4 of the original 47 bells The boldface printed capital letters represent Roman - the distribution of salted herring and white bread which had been manufactered in Heiligerlee were left, numerals; the W being read as two letters Vs. - agriculture including the "bourdon" weighting 5.500 kilogrammes. This The numerals used in the text are: - an old printing press (one of Leiden's most flourishing bell had been presented to the Town Hall by Leiden = 1, V = 5, W = 10, L = 50, C = 100, M = 1.000. trades, both in the present and the past) Undergraduate's Corps on the occasion of their first - a lady, having her portrait painted centenary. - Minerva, the godess of wisdom Thryc van Spaengien, hem verbliden - a weaving mill In 1950 the town council decided that the carillon should be In tbeleggen als zi zagen - a farmer and his wife at the cheese press reinstalled and the 43 bells were once again cast by the same firm, Van Bergen of Heiligerlee. Met gedult mi dragen tliden - and an eel sniggler Despite all the trouble that had been taken, the carillon's Zo veel letters, zo veel dagen to the right of the steeple, peering out beneath the cornice of the civic hall are: quality had taken a backward slide. NAE ZWARTE HVNGER-NOOT Advised by the Leiden carillonneurs, 31 new bells were cast - Floris V GEBRACHT HAD TOT DE DOOT and tuned, a further three bells were added to the carillon - Philips, the Duke of Burgundy, who gave the town new and the "beiaard" was complete. BINAEST ZES DVIZENT MENSCHEN privileges A new keyboard was installed and the mechanical ALST GOD DEN HEER VERDROOT - Jan van Hout, the skilled town clerk equipment was replaced by an electro-magnetic system. GAF HI VNS WEDER BROOT - Frans van Mieris, the historian - King Lodewijk Napoleon, who gave assistance to Leiden All this work carried out on Leiden's carillon has resulted in ZO VEEL WI CVNSTEN WENSCHEN in 1807 after the gunpowder explosion Leiden now having "one of the most representative Zuuct en vint tjaer van liden zwaer - and finally, Thorbecke, the man who drafted the Municipal examples of Holland's long list of musical steeples. The Van Dat niet en was te herden Corporations Act. Bergen bells were the major contributing factor to this as De Here maer vrid' uns daer naer they compelled Eijsbouts (the installer) not to tackle it as The steeple simply a standard job", according to the report compiled by Der tiender maent den derden the Dutch Carillon Association. The beautifully designed steeple rising from the building's It is, therefore, more than worth it to take the time and listen centre is 53 metres tall and although much higher it looks really carefully to the music played on this carillon. Adjacent to the gate in which the "cry of distress" verse is very much like the earlier one that was destroyed in the fire. written is the seat from which the town crier announced The main body of the steeple is square and decorated with council decisions. 24 corbels sculptured by Verstoep to portray the four A measuring rule is hewn into the wall between the iron seasons. In turn, the seasons are represented by the signs knobs; this rule indicates the "Rijnland" rod and the iron of the zodiac and the months of the year. The main entrance staff attached to the wall tot the right above the Rijnland The figures sculptured by Mari Andriessen portray the rod, indicates the "Rijnland" foot. These measurements presentation of the charter of liberty to the town of Leiden The main entrance on the Vismarkt side was embellished were indicated on the wall of the Town Hall to ensure that by Count Floris V (1255-1296) in 1266. with two massive pillars made by the well-known sculptor cloth was not sold at short measure. Hildo Krop. These pillars depict a male figure (authority) As the steeple rises its octangular shaped storeys become and a female figure (liberty) as the two poles of the town If you walk round the Town Hall in the direction of the narrower, crowned by an open sphere of foliage (made by council. Vismarkt the first thing that strikes you is the large square gold and silversmiths Jan and Eloy Brom) bearing the with Blaauw's magnificently designed entrance to the Town weather-vane (the Leiden town-crest with its rampant lion From left to right, the ornamental decorations represent the Hall on the Vismarkt side. holding the shield) which originates from the steeple which siege of Leiden by the bust of the then burgomaster, van This square was reconstructed in 1981 to suit the wishes of was earlier destroyed by fire. der Werf; reference to the five academic faculties by the the town council. New steps leading up to the entrance The carillon bust of the famous physician, Boerhaave; a peasant woman were built to a design by town-planner Jean Piret. This has by sheaves of corn and a worker by machinery. vastly improved the accessibility of the square. The first chimes, which were at that time played with a The entrance is crowned with two lions bearing the Dutch These semi-circular stairs now contribute towards the Town wooden hammer, were installed in 1460. coat of arms and the Leiden town-crest. Hall square's second function: that of an open air theatre. It Leiden obtained a real "beiaard" (carillon) in 1670. The 38 The beautiful bronze doors decorated with the crests were is used as a stage during the many festivities which take bells cast at the famous bell foundry, Hemony, were totally designed by architect Blaauw and made by Jan and Eloy place in the square. destroyed in the 1929 fire. Brom. 4 Inside the Town Hall The walls of the corridor leading from the large hall to the brothers, who, as a name of honour were allowed to use the council chamber are of Paonazzo marble. A magnificent name of Van Duyvenbode (=pigeon post messenger), kept To the right of the Gemeentelijke Kredietbank on the first setting for the two mosaics made by Lode Sengers. The left in touch with William of Orange during the siege of Leiden floor hangs the painting "Gezicht op Leiden" (View of one represents "truth", a man deep in thought, reading by by using post pigeons. Leiden) by D. Nijland. It shows the Haarlemmertrekvaart and the glimmer of candlelight. The one on the right represents This peace memorial stands as a symbol of the release of Groenoord can be seen on the left of the picture. This "willingness". Each mosaic consists of about 26.000 little Leiden's inhabitants from the siege as also the liberation of painting was presented to the town by the Leiden stones, all set by hand. the people from World War II. Association of Industrialists in 1940. The boy with the pigeon was made by L.O. Wenckebach in On the way to the second floor, sometimes referred to as The Council Chamber 1954. the "council floor", we see a large stained-glass window - the "coat of arms window". The council chamber was inaugurated on 11 November The function of the Town Hall Glazer Hofman made this window depicting the coats of 1945 and its atmosphere is one of solemnity. All the arms of many Leiden burgomasters, including the most woodwork is Brazilian Pallisander and the solemn The Town Hall is not only a beautiful building that contains famous one, Van der Werf and Leiden's beloved 'De atmosphere is emphasised even more by the Gobelin a number of magnificent works of art. It is also a building Gijzelaar'. tapestries designed by de Moor. that is open to the population of Leiden, offering them a This is a tradition that has been continued since the days of Above the entrance door the centre panel with the clock is number of services. It is with this function in mind that a Burgomaster van Kinschot, on the window facing the a symbol of "time". The others represent: great deal of radical restructuring has taken place over the council-chamber. - social welfare past years, the hall on the ground floor being a pefect - labour example. Leiden Town Hall's civic hall (a part of which is used for - the arts wedding ceremonies) was first used on August 31st 1948 - technology A total work force of 1.700 civil servants work for the for a reception to celebrate Queen Wilhelmina's Royal - wisdom Municipality of Leiden. Obviously, they are not all employed Jubilee. - and the sciences. in the Town Hall itself. There are civil servants who work in The floor is laid with costly dark edged "Arabescato" the Stadsbouwhuis, the Social Welfare Offices, the local marble, the walls of black "Port d'Or", a marble found in the All together, a representation of life in Leiden. museum the Lakenhal (Cloth Hall), the Stadstimmerwerf la-Spèzia region and Jaune de Sienne, a yellow marble. (Municipal carpenter's yard), Endegeest (Psychiatric Clinic), A very special "mirror" effect is obtained from this marble's Two intarsias by Escher are to be seen above the two side- etc. structure. It is in this splendid civic hall that we see Pieter doors in the burgomaster and aldermen's (B&W) meeting About 300 civil servants work in the offices on the Town van Veen's painting "De spijziging der verloste Leidenaren room. Another work by Escher, of a clock surrounded by Hall's five floors; civil servants who work mainly for central op de 3e oktober 1574" a painting of "the feeding of the birds in flight, can be seen above the entrance door. This departments such as the Personnel Department, Finance, liberated inhabitants of Leiden on October 3rd 1574", dating symbolises "the passage of time". Information and Economic Affairs. There are also a number from 1615. of departments specially with a strong public directed This painting was given to the town by the artist himself. Next to the burgomaster and aldermen's (B&W) room is the function, such as the Registrat's Office, the Kredietbank, Pieter van Veen was born in 1564 and died in 1629. This burgomaster's room, panelled with satin wood from Ceylon. the Municipal Information Centre and the Information Desk. particular painting survived the fire in 1929 because at that The manner in which this wood has been used to decorate In the Information Centre, situated in the entrance hall, one time it had been removed to the Cloth Hall to be restored. the room is most unusual. can find committee and council documents, public planning Escher depicted the town's consecutive expansions documents and the like, open for public inspection. On the ceiling of the large hall is a glass dome decorated between 1186 and 1940 in various tints of wood. This work Small exhibitions are also held regularly in this hall. The with twining blossom in black and white, designed by Hildo of art was presented to the Town Hall by one of the local Registrar's Office is also located here; this is the Krop. The wind rose, to the left of the entrance, was also newspapers of Leiden, "Leidsch Dagblad". department that deals with passports, driving licences, from his hand. An electrical contact connects this wind registration of births and deaths, marriages and change of rose with the weather vane on top of the Town Hall steeple The leaded window with the Star of David (on the second address. and is rotated to show the wind direction. floor) was a gift from Leiden's Jewish community, donated For loans, there is the Gemeentelijke Kredietbank to the Council in 1981 in appreciation of its support towards (Municipal Credit Bank). The second floor houses the local the restauration of the Synagogue complex, Levendaal 14. council authorities, the council chamber, the burgomaster The sculptured figures on either side of the elevation and aldermen's offices, the burgomaster and aldermen's leading to the connecting corridor represent fertility. The In the Town Hall's picturesque inner courtyard stands a chamber, meeting rooms and lastly, the civic hall, used for figure on the left was made by the Amsterdam artist Leo de statue of a boy releasing a pigeon. official receptions and wedding receptions. Vries and is of a young girl. To the right, the statue of a This statue, a gift from Queen Wilhelmina to commemorate mother and child, was made by Ruth Brouwer, another the opening of the civic hall, represents Jan van Amsterdam artist. Both statues have been owned by the Duyvenbode. Town Hall since 1961. The Van Duyvenbodes, actually the three Cornelisz 5 THE PAINTINCS 1. Woods in Autumn oilpaint, canvas, 82x69 cm 2. Sailing Vesscls, 1900 oilpaint, canvas, 55x47 on 3. In the Woods oilpaint, canvas, 73.5x55 cm 4. Silvery Moon in a Haze, 1932 oilpaint, canvas, 66x55 cm 5. The Church of Aune, 1927 oilpsint, canvas, 100x105 CM 6. Farms in the Valley pastel, 46x55 cm 7. My Home in the Mountains, 1928 pastel, 55x46 cm 13/06/89 08:26 USIS AMERICAN EMBASSY THE HAGUE 001 United States Information Service Lange Voorhout 102 2514 EJ's Gravanhage USIS Telephone: (0) 70-624-911 American Embassy, The Haque, The Netherlands Fax Number (070) 65 88 37 (within The Netherlands) (31) 70 65 88 37 (outside The Netherlands) Date: 13 June 1989 No. of Pages Including This Page: 4 To: White House Advance Office Peggy Dooley Spccchwriters Staff FAX 09-1-202-456-2820 From: USIS - The Hague William La Salle Subject: Provided, for your information, is the text of pamphlet used at Ambassador's Residence to introduced guests to the paintings there by American impressionist painter William Singer. PAINTINGS BY WILLIAM HENRY SINGER, JR. ON LOAN FROM THE STICHTING SINGER MEMORIAL FOUNDATION, LAREN, THE NETHERLANDS AT THE AMERICAN AMBASSADOR'S RESIDENCE TOBIAS ASSERLAAN 4 THE HAGUE 3 n. 13/06/89 08:27 USIS AMERICAN EMBASSY THE HAGUE 003 WILLIAM HENRY SINGER, JR. William Henry Singer Jr- was born in 1868 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania as the youngest son of steel magnate William Singer. As a child William was already very interested in drawing and painting, and although Singer Sr. had hoped that his son would succeed him In the steel factory, William chose the HrLs. In 1893 Singer met Anna Spencer Brugh whom he married two years later. Anna Singer has played an Important role in the artistic development of her husband. In 1900 the Singers traveled to Paris. However, they disliked the notse and bustle of the big city, and moved to rural Laren, in the Netwer 2.44 it.r.t the reputation #2 - The "Dutch Barbizon". In 1909 their house "The Wild Swans" was built. Until William's death in 1943, the Singers lived alternately in Laren and in Olden, Norway. William Singer's works characterize his love for nature. His impressionist paintings and pastels show a keen eye for color and composition, and his landscapes breath the seasonal atmospheres. The Norwegian landscape was Singer's major source of inspiration, but his works also Include Dutch and American scenes, as well as some still lifes. Brief History of the SINGER MUSEUM in Laren In 1954, Mrs. Anna Singer commissioned architect Wouter Hamdorff to add two wings to the Singer's country livuse "The WILL Owand", thus creating a cultural center where the Singer collection could be put on permanent exhibition as an humage to her late husband William Singer. The Singer collection, consisting of some 500 art works by William Singer, as well as Dutch, American and French artists, and the llew cultural center were donated by Anna Singer to the Singer Memorial Foundation. On May 12, 1956 the Singer Museum and adjacent concert hall were opened. The museum is located at Oude Drift 1, 1251 BS Laren. COUNTRY VISITED DATE OF VISIT PRESIDENT Egypt: 1974 June 12-14 Nixon Cairo, Alexandria Egypt: 1978 January 4 Carter Aswan Egypt: 1979 March 7-10 Carter Cairo, Alexandria, Giza Egypt: 1979 March 13 Carter Cairo ET Salvador: 1928 November 26 Hoover (E) Cutuco E1 Salvador: 1968 July 6-8 Johnson San Salvador Finland: 1975 July 29-August 2 Ford Helsinki France: 1918 December 14-25 Wilson Paris, Chaumont France: 1919 January 7- Wilson Paris February 14 France: 1919 March 14-June 18 Wilson Paris France: 1919 June 20-28 Wilson Paris France: 1943 November 20 Roosevelt, F.D. Algeria, Oran 26 COUNTRY VISITED DATE OF VISIT PRESIDENT France: 1943 December 9 Roosevelt, F.D. Senegal, Dakar France: 1945 February 18 Roosevelt, F.D. Algeria, Algiers France: 1957 December 16-19 Eisenhower Paris France: 1959 September 2-4 Eisenhower Paris France: 1959 December 18-21 Eisenhower Toulon, Paris France: 1960 May 15-19 Eisenhower Paris France: 1961 May 31-June 3 Kennedy Paris France: 1969 February 28- Nixon Paris March 1 France: 1970 November 12 Nixon Paris France: 1974 April 5-7 Nixon Paris France: 1974 December 14-16 Ford Martinique France: 1975 November 15-17 Ford Rambouillet 27 COUNTRY VISITED DATE OF VISIT PRESIDENT France: 1978 January 4-6 Paris, Normandy, Bayeux, Carter and Versailles France: 1979 January 4-9 Guadeloupe Carter France: 1982 June 2-7 Paris Reagan France: 1982 June 5-6 Versailles Reagan Germany: Potsdam 1945 July 16-August 1 Truman Germany, Federal Republic of: 1959 August 26-27 Bonn Eisenhower Germany, Federal Republic of: 1963 June 23-26 Bonn, Cologne, Frankfurt, Kennedy Wiesbaden, Berlin Germany, Federal Republic of: 1967 April 23-26 Johnson Bonn Germany, Federal Republic of: 1969 February 26-27 Nixon Cologne, Bonn, Berlin Germany, Federal Republic of: 1975 July 26-28 Ford Bonn, Linz Germany, Federal Republic of: 1978 July 13-15 Bonn, Wiesbaden-Erbenheim Carter Air Base, Frankfurt, Berlin Germany, Federal Republic of: 1978 July 16-17 Bonn Carter 28 COUNTRY VISITED DATE OF VISIT PRESIDENT Poland: 1972 May 31-June 1 Warsaw Nixon Poland: 1975 July 28-29 Warsaw, Krakow Ford Poland: 1977 December 29-31 Warsaw Carter Portugal: Lisbon 1960 May 19-20 Eisenhower Portugal: 1971 December 13-14 The Azores, Nixon Terceira Island Portugal: 1974 June 18-19 The Azores, Nixon Lajes Field Portugal: 1980 June 26 Lisbon Carter Romania: Bucharest 1969 August 2-3 Nixon Romania: 1975 August 2-3 Bucharest, Sinaia Ford Saudi Arabia: 1978 January 3-4 Riyadh Carter Spain: 1959 December 21-22 Madrid Eisenhower Spain: 1970 October 2-3 Madrid Nixon 36 WASHINGTON POST June 2, 1988 ALL THE PRESIDENT'S TRAVELS PRESIDENT REAGAN'S TRIPS ABROAD 1981 Mexico, Jan. 5: met with President Jose Lopez Portillo. Canada, March 10-11: met with Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau. Canada, July 19-21: Economic Summit. ! Mexico, Oct. 21-24: International Meeting on Cooperation and Development. 1982 Jamaica, April 7: met with Prime Minister Edward Seaga, Gov. Gen. Florizel Glasspole. Barbados, April 8: met with officials from Barbados, Antigua, Barbuda, Dominica, St. Kitts-Nevis, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. France, June 3-6: Economic Summit; also met with President Francois Mitterrand, Prime Minister Pierre Mauroy, Paris Mayor Jacques Chirac. Italy, June 7: met with Pope John Paul II in the Vatican and with Italian government officials in Rome. Britain, June 8-9: met with Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. West Germany, June 10-11: met with President Karl Carstens, Chancellor Helmut Schmidt and NATO Secretary General Josef Luns of the Netherlands. Mexico, Oct. 8: met with president-elect Miguel de la Madrid. Central and South America, Nov. 30-Dec. 4: visited Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, Honduras and met with officials in each country. 1983 Mexico, Aug. 14: met with President de la Madrid. Japan, Nov. 9-12: met with Emperor Hirohito, Prime Minister Yasuhiro Nakasone. South Korea, Nov. 12-14: met with President Chun Doo Hwan. WASHINGTON POST June 2, 1988 1984 China, April 26-May 1: met with senior leader Deng Xiaoping, President Li Xiannian, Premier Zhao Ziyang, General Secretary Hu Yaobang. Ireland, June 1-4: met with Prime Minister Garret FitzGerald. Britain, June 4-10: Economic Summit. France, June 6: visited Normandy, met with President Mitterrand. 1985 Canada, March 17-18: met with Prime Minister Brian Mulroney. West Germany, May 1-6: Economic Summit; also visited Bitburg war cemetery. Spain, May 6-8: met with King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez. France, May 8: met with European Parliament President Pierre Pflimlin. Portugal, May 8-10: met with President Antonio Eanes, Prime Minister Mario Soares. Switzerland, Nov. 16-20: first meeting with a Soviet leader, General Secretary Mikhail Gorbachev; also met with Swiss President Kurt Furgler. Beigium, Nov. 29: reported on U.S. Soyiet summit to officials from NATO countries. 1986 Mexico, Jan. 3: met with President de la Madrid. Grenada, Feb. 20: met with officials from Grenada, Antigua, Barbados, Dominica, Jamaica, St. Kitts-Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Trinidad-Tobago. Indonesia, April 20-May 2: met with officials from Indonesia, the Philippines, Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand Japan, May 2-7: Economic Summit. Iceland, Oct. 10-11: second meeting with General Secretary Gorbachev. 1987 Canada, April 5-6: met with Prime Minister Brian Mulroney. Italy, June 6-10: met with Pope John Paul II at the Vatican; Economic Summit in Venice. West Germany, June 12: met with Chancellor Helmut Kohl, Preident Richard von Weizsaecker, Bundestag President Philip Jenninger and West Berlin Mayor Eberhard Diepgen. 1988 Mexico, Feb. 13: met with President de la Madrid. Belgium, March 1-3: met with Belgian officials and representatives from the NATO countries. SOURCE: The White House PRESIDENT REAGAN'S TRIPS ABROAD (cont.) 1988 Finland, May 25-28 Soviet Union, May 29-June 2: fourth meeting with General Secretary Gorbachev Great Britain, June 2-3: met with Prime Minister Thatcher Canada, June 19-21: Economic Summit in Toronto Dams in The vulnerability of the Netherlands The Delta Project Over half of the Netherlands lies below sea level. Just how The outcome of this determination was the Delta Project. the Delta vulnerable the country is to flooding was demonstrated on the The Project's principal goal was to improve the safety of the night of 1 February 1953. The combination of a spring tide southwest Netherlands by considerably shortening and re- and a persistent, violent northwesterly storm recreated on a inforcing the coastline. It was decided that dams should be particularly large scale an event which happened many constructed across inlets and estuaries, considerably reducing 1 times over the centuries. Waves destroyed the dykes and the the possibility of the sea surging into the land once more. sea rushed into the polders. The results were catastrophic: Freshwater lakes would form behind them. Roads along the 1,835 people drowned and many thousands of cows, horses, dams would improve access to the islands of Zeeland and pigs and chickens were killed. The floods destroyed 47,000 South Holland. Dams could not be constructed across the New homes, as well as schools, churches and other buildings. Appro- Waterway or the Western Scheldt, as these important shipping ximately 500 kilometres of dykes were completely or partially routes to the seaports of Rotterdam and Antwerp had to be destroyed and 200,000 hectares of land was flooded. The har- kept open. The safety of these areas was to be guaranteed by des hit areas were the province of Zeeland, the southern part substantially reinforcing the dykes. of South Holland and the western part of North Brabant. The Delta Project is one of the largest hydraulic engineering The bewilderment and shock felt by people in the rest of the projects that has ever been carried out anywhere in the world. Netherlands when they learnt of the extent of the flooding New hydraulic engineering techniques were gradually develop- soon gave way to determination, and great efforts were made ed for the construction of the eleven dams and barriers of to reseal the breached dykes. The last breach, near Ouwerkerk various sizes which were built over a period of thirty years. on Schouwen-Duiveland, was resealed at the beginning of November 1953. Rarely have the people of the Netherlands In the early 1970s the realization grew that it was important tc been so united as when they decided that such a catastrophe preserve as much of the natural environment as possible, and should never happen again. this point of view has left its mark on the Delta Project. As a result the original plans were changed: not all of the inlets, 3 distributaries and estuaries between the Western Scheldt and the New Waterway have been transformed into freshwater lakes as was initially intended; there are now very distinct water systems, each with its own characteristic function. You can now drive along the roads constructed on top of the dams and visit all the major Delta works and water systems in a single day. It does not matter where your journey begins or which direction you take. There is no systematic route one 6 could follow to visit the dams and barriers in the same sequence in which the project was carried out. Yet the Delta Project was carried out in anything but a random order. Work began on the relatively simpler parts, so that the experience gained could be used during the construction of larger, more 2 difficult dams across inlets and estuaries with strong tidal cur- rents. That was how the Delta works progressed: new hydrau- lic engineering techniques were first applied on a small scale and then used in the larger projects. The last dam in the Delta Project was completed in the spring of 1987 and lies at the junction of the provinces of Zeeland, North Brabant and South Holland. Its completion marked the end of thirty years' construction work on a chain of dams and other hydraulic engineering works to protect the southwest Netherlands from flooding. The Hollandse IJssel The Veerse Meer The Grevelingenmeer Engineers from the Public Works Department first turned After the storm surge barrier in the Hollandse IJssel was The construction of the Grevelingen dam (completed in their attention to the Hollandse IJssel, a river with an open completed, a start was made on the first major dams in the 1965) entailed a more extensive use of the seabed protec- passage to the sea via the Nieuwe Maas. A storm surge bar- turbulent tidal inlets. In line with the principle of working tion techniques that had been tested in the Zandkreek and rier was built at Krimpen to protect one of the lowest lying from small to large, the first project was the Three Islands the Veerse Gat. The six-kilometre dam between Schouwen- and most densely populated areas of the Netherlands. Project, which entailed the construction of dams in the Duiveland and Goeree-Overflakkee crosses the channels on Under normal conditions, the gates of the barrier, which Zandkreek between North and South Beveland and in the either side of the Oude Tong sandbar. The section on the was completed in 1958, are raised 12 metres above the Veerse Gat between North Beveland and Walcheren. During sandbar itself was built by pumping sand onto it. The sou- waterlevel, so that there is no obstruction to shipping. If the the construction of the Zandkreek dam asphalt was used for thern channel was dammed using the same type of small tide rises to a dangerously high level, the gates can be lowe- the first time to cover the sill which would support the cais- caissons that had been used in the Zandkreek dam, but a red to dam the river. A lock allows ships to travel up or sons, huge concrete structures which can be positioned new technique was developed for the larger channel to the downstream when the barrier is closed. quickly to dam the tidal inlet. The Zandkreek dam was com- north: a cableway was spanned across the channel and cable pleted in 1960. cars tipped stone into the water. The seven caissons used a year later to dam the Veerse Gat A substantial part of the dam built across the Brouwersha- were even larger. Sluices in the caissons allowed the tide to vense Gat, which forms the western boundary of the Greve- ebb and flow without obstruction. This prevented the cur- lingenmeer, was also constructed on sandbars using the rent from becoming too strong while the mouth of the pumping method. The northern channel was dammed with channel was gradually being dammed. When all seven were sluice caissons. These remained open until the dam in the in position the steel sluice gates were closed simultaneously southern channel, which was constructed using a cableway, and the caissons filled with sand. A substantial part of the had risen well above the water level. Then the sluice gates dam had already been built on a sandbar in the Veerse Gat were closed and the dam across the two tidal channels was by pumping sand onto it. The Veerse Meer, the lake formed completed using sand. after the dam was completed, is partly brackish due to dilu- tion by rainwater. Land that has been reclaimed is now used The Brouwers dam was completed in 1971, and the area for farming or recreational purposes and a few sandbars behind it is now a lake, the Grevelingenmeer. The loss of the have been left entirely to nature. tide and the gradual reduction in the salt content of the water led to the death of many plants and animals. Within a few years, though, nature adapted to the new conditions. After a sluice had been constructed in the Brouwers dam to allow water to flow between the Grevelingenmeer and the North Sea, the lake developed into a very valuable area for nature conservation, the fishing industry and recreational purposes. A sluice has also been constructed in the Grevelin- gen Dam and the Grevelingenmeer can be 'flushed' with water from the North Sea to keep the salt and oxygen con- tent high. The Haringvliet The Eastern Scheldt The Storm Surge Barrier The Volkerak dam separates the Hollandsch Diep and the While the Haringvliet dam and the Brouwers dam were nea- A compromise was reached in 1976: a storm surge barrier, Haringvliet from the southern part of the Delta and pre- ring completion, preparations had already begun for the which would stay open under normal conditions but which vents fresh water from the Rhine and the Maas flowing construction of the dam across the mouth of the Eastern could be closed at very high tides. The construction of the southward. The Volkerak dam, completed in 1965, comprises Scheldt, the last, largest and also most complex part of the storm surge barrier meant a break with the policy that the the Hellegatsplein, a dam extending to Goeree-Overflakkee Delta Project. Three islands were constructed: Roggenplaat, Public Works Department and the hydraulic engineering and a second dam with a large lock complex extending in Neeltje Jans and Noordland. A pumped sand dam was built contractors in the Netherlands had pursued in working from the direction of North Brabant. A road bridge has been built between the latter two. In the remaining channels the first small to large and from relatively simple to complex. The from the Hellegatsplein to the Hoekse Waard. The dam to steel towers were built for the cableway, as it was planned storm surge barrier needed expertise that had yet to be Goeree-Overflakkee was built with pumped sand. Twelve to dam the Eastern Scheldt using this well-tried method. developed and experience that had yet to be gained. Exten- sluice caissons were needed to dam the southeastern chan- Its completion date was set for 1978. sive research was carried out to determine the feasibility of nel. building the storm surge barrier, taking full account of the At the end of the 1960s however protests were voiced interests of the environment, flood protection, and the The Haringvliet dam on the western side of the Haringvliet about the project. Scientists became aware of the special fishing and shipping industries. has two purposes. It must not only protect the waters significance of the flora and fauna in and around the The actual construction of the storm surge barrier also had inland from high tides, but must also discharge excess water Eastern Scheldt. The sandbars and mud flats exposed at low to be thoroughly studied. The solution was a barrier consis- from the Rhine and the Maas. The construction of the tide are important feeding grounds for birds, and the ting of pre-fabricated concrete and steel components that 4.5 kilometre Haringvliet dam therefore began with the estuary is a nursery for fish from the North Sea. Fishermen were assembled in the three channels at the mouth of the building of a large sluice complex. The 17 sluices can and action groups made sure that the scientific findings Eastern Scheldt. 65 colossal concrete piers from the barrier's discharge an enormous volume of water. Closing or opening were heard by the government and parliament. A heated backbone. A stone sill and a concrete sill beam were placed the sluices determines how much water has to be dischar- debate flared up. Opponents of the dam believed that the between each of the piers, and the openings could be closed ged by the alternative route via the New Waterway. By safety of the region could be guaranteed by raising the with steel gates. Concrete box girders were placed on top of channelling as much water as possible through the New height of the dykes along the Eastern Scheldt. The inlet the piers to form a road deck. Waterway to the North Sea, saltwater is prevented from would then remain open and saline. The equally vigorous penetrating deep inland and making the groundwater supporters of the solid dam, for example agricultural and The seabed also needed special consideration. A new techni- saline. The sluice complex in the Haringvliet dam is called water boards, appealed to the emotions of the Zeelanders, que was required to prevent the strong current in the the 'tap of the Netherlands' because of its vital significance asking whether the consequences of the flood disaster of mouth of the river from washing away the sand on which to the country's water management. The channel on the 1953, had already been forgotten. the piers were to stand. The solution was to place the piers southern side of the discharge sluices was dammed with on mattresses filled with graded layers of sand and gravel sand, and that on the northern side using the cableway which would allow water to flow through but trap the sand. method. The dam was completed in 1971. There is now no tide in the Haringvliet and it consist entirely of freshwater. The Zoommeer The Monument The construction of the storm surge barrier also required The storm surge barrier has narrowed the mouth of the The place where the Philips dam joins up with the Grevelin- the development of special equipment. The 'Mytilus' made Eastern Scheldt, and less water now enters and leaves the gen dam is typical of the Delta works. It is a point where its appearance in the estuary to compact the seabed, follo- estuary with the tide. Special measures had to be taken to three different water systems meet: the saltwater Grevelin- wed by the 'Jan Heijmans' which laid asphalt and dumped ensure that this reduction in tidal movement would not lead stones, the 'Cardium' which positioned the mattress, the genmeer, the freshwater Krammer/Volkerak and the estuary to a serious reduction in the difference between the high of the Eastern Scheldt, each with its own environment and 'Ostrea' to lift, transport and position the piers and the and low water levels. Partly for this reason two dams were its own function. The concrete anchor block, which was part mooring and cleaning pontoon 'Macoma'. These are very built in the Eastern Scheldt inland of the storm surge barrier. of the cableway used in the construction of the Grevelingen special ships designed for just one purpose: to construct the These reduced the area of the estuary and ensured an ade- dam, has been left as a monument to the new hydraulic storm surge barrier. New measuring instruments and com- quate tidal range despite the construction of the storm engineering techniques that have been developed. The puter programs were also developed, so that engineers surge barrier. Behind these two dams, the Oester dam and dams themselves symbolise the safety that the Delta Project working 30 to 40 metres below the surface could position the Philips dam, an area of fresh water has formed with a has brought to the southwest Netherlands. components with such precision that the maximum error permanent water level, the long Krammer/Volkerak and the would be just one centimetre. Zoommeer. Another reason for constructing the Oester and More Information Philips dams was that shipping on this important route The Cardium laid the first mattress in November 1982 and would no longer be affected by tidal movements. Further- the Ostrea placed the first pier in August 1983. Work pro- A permanent exhibition on the Delta Project and the history more, these dams prevent fresh water from entering the gressed quickly. There were virtually no technical setbacks; of flood defences in the Netherlands - the Delta Expo - salt water of the Eastern Scheldt. The size of the Zoommeer only the cost turned out to be higher than expected. The is housed in the Topshuis on the island Neeltje Jans in the was reduced by the completion of the Markiezaat dyke in mouth of the Eastern Scheldt. storm surge barrier was 30% more expensive than estima- 1983 and a canal was excavated to discharge excess fresh ted. On 4 October 1986 Her Majesty Queen Beatrix officially water from the lake into the Western Scheldt. The protec- Colophon opened the storm surge barrier. The Eastern Scheldt has tion provided by the storm surge barrier allowed the Oester remained open and flood protection has been achieved. On dam and the Philips dam to be constructed entirely of sand. Ministry of Transport and Public Works average the barrier has to be closed once a year because of Tidal currents in the estuary can largely be eliminated by Information Division storms. closing the barrier's gates. The Oester dam was completed Plesmanweg 5 - Den Haag in 1986 and the Philips dam in the following year. The Phi- june 1988 lips dam has an unusual lock complex with a salt/freshwater separation system that prevents salt water entering the Design: Dijkerman & van Waarden, Den Haag freshwater lake and fresh water entering the Eastern Scheldt whenever a ship passes through the locks. Photography: Aerocamera, Bart Hofmeester Ref. JX1705 d States Department of State A26 Jan. 1989 WH Key Officers of Foreign Service Posts Guide for Business Representatives January 1989 22 EQUATORIAL GUINEA-FIJI FINLAND-FRANCE 23 EQUATORIAL GUINEA FINLAND MALABO (E), Calle de Los Ministros; P.O. Box 597; Tel 2406, 2507; HELSINKI (E), Itainen Puistotie 14A, SF-00140; APO NY 09664; Workweek: Monday-Friday Tel [358] (0) 171931; Telex 121644 USEMB SF; Commercial Section Telex 125541 RSO: George Rodman AMB: Chester E. Norris, Jr. (resident in Yaonde) AMB: Rockwell A. Schnabel POL/ECO: Carl F. Troy ADM: Ruth L. Willow AID: Jay P. Johnson ADM/CON: George W. Indyke, Jr. DCM: Michael L. Durkee (resident in Yaounde) RSO: James W. Holt POL: William J. Kushlis AGR: Gordon S. Nicks ECO: Lawrence E. Butler (resident in Stockholm) COM: Kenneth L. Norton PAO: William P. Kiehl ETHIOPIA LAB: John P. Fernandez ODA: Col William A. J. Mackie ADDIS ABABA (E), Entoto St.; P.O. Box 1014; Tel [251] (01) 551002; CON: Elo-Kai Ojamaa USAF Telex 21282 AID: Willard J. Pearson FRANCE CHG: Robert G. Houdek RSO: (Vacant) DCM: Robert C. Frasure (resident in Nairobi) PARIS (E), 2 Avenue Gabriel, 75382 Paris Cedex 08; APO NY 09777; ECO/POL: Sharon K. Mercurio LAB: Harry J. O'Hara Tel [33] (1) 42-96-12-02, 42-61-80-75; Telex 650221 AMEMB POL: Ken Foster (resident in Nairobi) ADM: Gregory W. Engle AMB: (Vacant) W. Dennis Melton SCI: Allen L. Sessons IRS: DCM: Mark C. Lissfelt CON: Carol Rose (resident in Riyadh) AGR: Herbert F. Rudd POL: Peter Semler PAO: John T. Burns PAO: Charles E. Courtney ECO: William H. Edgar CUS: George C. Corcoran, Jr. FIN: T. Whittier Warthin ODA: Radm Norman Campbell FIJI COM: James A. Moorhouse USN LAB: John J. Muth SUVA (E), 31 Loftus St.; P.O. Box 218; Tel [679] 314-466 314069; ODC: Col Richard J. Beauregard CON: Donald K. Parsons USAF Telex 2255 AMEMBASY FJ ADM: Bruce W. Clark FAA: Robert T. Francis II RSO: Robert P. Nicholson RSO: William D. Clarke IRS: William Connett AMB: Leonard Rochwarger (resident in Canberra) DCM: Michael P. Owens AID: John B. Woods POL: Robert A. Benzinger PAO: Robert B. Laing ECO: Glen B. Miller ODA: Capt John S. Baldwin USA CON: Patricia A. Murphy (resident in Wellington) ADM: Craig S. Tymeson IMPORTANT: See page viii for Accepted Forms for Addressing Mail. Also see inside back cover for Telephoning a Foreign Service Post. FRANCE-GABON 25 24 FRANCE US MISSION TO THE ORGANIZATION FOR ECONOMIC MARSEILLE (CG), 12 Boulevard Paul Peytral, 13286 COOPERATION AND DEVELOPMENT (USOECD), Marseille Cedex; APO NY 09777; Tel (33) (91) 549-200; 19 Rue de Franqueville, 75016 Paris; APO New York 09777; Tel Telex 430597 [33] (1) 45-24-74-77; Telex 643964 F CG: R. Susan Wood ECO/COM: (Vacancy) CON: Jay T. Smith US REP: Amb. Denis Lamb DCM: Richard E. Hecklinger STRASBOURG (CG), 15 Ave. D'Alsace; 67082 Strasbourg ECON/FIN: John Lange CEDEX or APO NY 09777; Tel [33] [88] 35-31-04; Telex 870907 INT ECO: John P. Spillane LAB/MANPOWER/AG: Robert C. Friel AMERCON TRADE DIV: Ronnie C. Woody CG: Victor D. Comras ADM OFF: Michael L. Milligan SCI/ENV/INDUST: Robert K. Carr ENRG/SCI ADV: Frank J. Goldner FRENCH CARIBBEAN DEPARTMENT US REP DAC: Martin V. Dagata MARTINIQUE (CG), 14 Rue Blenac; B.P. 561, Fort-de-France DAC Chrmn: Joseph C. Wheeler 97206; Tel [596] 63-13-03; Telex 912670; 912315 MR IND/COM: Charles W. Wessner INVESTMENT ADV: James T. Heg CG: Mary Dell Palazzolo RSO: Andrew Koritko ENERGY ADV: James W. Eighmie, Jr. CON: Linda L. Gresham (resident in Bridgetown) PAO: Alfred Kennedy POL/ECO: (Vacant) PAO: Frank A. Chiancone STC: Robert R. Brungart LAB: Charles R. Hare (resident in Bridgetown) (resident in Bridgetown) ADM: Michael S. Hoza US OBSERVER MISSION TO THE UNITED NATIONS EDUCATIONAL, SCIENTIFIC AND CULTURAL ORGANI- ZATION (UNESCO), 2 Avenue Gabriel, 75008 Paris CEDEX 08; GABON APO NY 09777; Tel[33] (1) 42-96-12-02, 42-61-80-75; Telex 650-221 LIBREVILLE (E), Blvd. de la Mer; B.P. 4000; Tel [241] 762003/4, 743492; Telex 5250 GO OBSERVER: Richard T. Miller AMB: Warren Clark, Jr. ADM: Paul E. Rowe BORDEAUX (CG), 22 Cours du Marechal Foch, 33080 Bordeaux DCM: Kenneth M. Scott, Jr. RSO: Melissa McPeak Cedex; APO NY 09777; Tel [33] (56) 52-65-95; Telex 540918 POL: William D. Barrett PAO: William F. Melvin USCSUL ECO/COM: Ronald K. McMullen ODA: Col Paul J. Wenzel USA CON: Mark R. Jensen Judith M. Heimann CON: Pamela K. Roe (resident in Kinshasa) CG: LYON (CG), 7 Quai General Sarrail; 69454 Lyon CEDEX 3; Tel [33] (78) 246-849; Telex 380597 USCSUL CG: Stanislaus R.P. Valerga CON: David W. Merrell 56 PARAGUAY-PERU PHILIPPINES-POLAND 57 PARAGUAY PHILIPPINES ASUNCION (E), 1776 Mariscal Lopez Ave.; Casilla Postal 402; MANILA (E), 1201 Roxas Blvd.; APO San Fran 96528; Tel [63] (2) APO Miami 34036-0001; Tel [595] (21) 201-041/9 521-7116; Telex 722-27366 AME PH; Com. Off.: 395 Buendia Ave. Extension Makati; Tel [63] (2) 818-6674; Telex 22708 COSEC PH AMB: Timothy L. Towell AID: Peter R. Orr DCM: James F. Mack (resident in Montevideo) AMB: Nicholas Platt RSO: Phillip E. Jornlin POL: Rose M. Likins PAO: Alan A. Rogers DCM: Kenneth M. Quinn AGR: Lyle Moe ECO/COM: Hugo Llorens ODA: Ltc Robert W. Happe POL: John M. Yates AID: Malcolm H. Butler CON: Clarence A. Hudson, Jr USA ECO: Ralph R. Moore PAO: Robert F. Jordan ADM: Francine L. Bowman ODC: Col John E. Stetzinger COM: Theodore J. Villinski ODA: Col Richard J. Ryer RSO: Daryl L. Rashkin USA ADM: Robert A. MacCallum USAF AGR: Daniel A. Martinez IRS: Vincent Gambino CON: J. Norbert Krieg US MAG: Mg Thomas H. (resident in Brasilia) (resident in Sao Paulo) LAB: James P. Murphy Harvey, Jr. USA IRS: Marilyn Dearsman PERU ASIAN DEVELOPMENT BANK (Manila), 2330 Roxas Blvd.; P.O. Box 789; Tel [63] (2) 807251; Telex 7425071 LIMA (E), Corner Avenidas Inca Garcilaso de la Vega & Espana; P.O. Box 1995, Lima 100; APO Miami 34031; Tel [51] (14) 338-000; U.S. EXEC DIR: Victor H. Frank, Jr. Telex 25212 PE (USEMBGSO); Consular Section: Grimaldo Del U.S. ALT EXEC DIR: (Vacancy) Solar 346, Miraflores Lima 18; Tel [51] (14) 44-3621; Commercial Section: Larrabure Y Unanue 110, Lima 1; Tel [51] (14) 33-3200; CEBU (C), 3d FI., PCI Bank, Gorordo Avenue, Lahug; APO San USAID Tel 20335 PE (USAIDPR) Fran 96528; Tel [63] (32) 73486; Telex 712-6226 AMCON PU AMB: Alexander F. Watson RSO: Timothy Dixon PO: Franklin P. Huddle, Jr. POL: (Vacant) DCM: Douglas Langan AGR: Gary C. Groves CON: Laurent D. Charbonnet BPAO: (Vacant) POL: John Hamilton AID: Donor Lion ECON/COM: William H. Wright ECO: Russell Graham PAO: Charles Loveridge COM: A. Albert Alexander NAU: Ceasar Bernal CON: Donna Hamilton ODA: Capt William POLAND ADM: George Lowe, Jr. Shillingsburg USAF LAB: Maria Sanchez-Carlo MAAG: Col August Jannarone WARSAW (E), Aleje Ujazdowskle 29/31; AmEmbassy Warsaw, IRS: Vincent Gambino IAGS: Ltc Raymond Becerril c/o AmConGen (WAW), APO NY 09213; Tel [48] (22) 283041-9; (resident in Sao Paulo) USA Telex 813304 AMEMB PL AMB: John R. Davis, Jr. RSO: Thomas J. Comiskey DCM: Darryl Johnson SCI: Gary R. Waxmansky IMPORTANT: See page viii for Accepted Forms for POL: Terry R. Snell AGR: (Vacant) Addressing Mail. Also see inside back cover for ECO: Howard H. Lange PRESS/CULT: Stephen M. COM: Edgar D. Fulton Dubrow Telephoning a Foreign Service Post. CON: Phyllis Villegoureix-Ritaud ODA: Dennis G. Monroe ADM: Mark J. Lijek 58 POLAND-PORTUGAL PORTUGAL-RWANDA 59 US TRADE CENTER (Warsaw), Ulica Wiejska 20; Tel [48] (22) PONTA DELGADA, SAO MIGUEL, AZORES (C), Avenida D. 21-45-15; Telex 813934 USTDO PL Henrique; APO NY 09406-0002; Tel [351] (96) 22216/7; DIR: Edgar D. Fulton Telex 82126 AMCNPD P PO: Curtis M. Stewart CON: Rhonda L. VC: Hollis S. Summers Ferguson-Augustus KRAKOW (CG), Ulica Stolarska 9, 31043 Krakow; c/o AmConGen (KRK), APO NY 09213; Tel [48] (12) 229764, 221400, 226040, 227793; Telex 0325350 QATAR CG: Michael T. Barry ADM: Daniel F. Romano DOHA (E), Fariq Bin Omran (opp. TV station); P.O. Box 2399; POL/ECO: Steven L. Blake BPAO: John H. Brown Tel [974] 864701/2/3; Telex 4847 Workweek: Saturday-Wednesday CON: Michael D. Kirby AMB: Joseph Ghougassian PAO: Martin Quinn POZNAN (C), Ulica Chopina 4; c/o AmConGen (POZ), APO ECO/COM: (Vacancy) ATO: Pitamber Devgon NY 09213; Tel [48] (61) 529586, 529587, 529874; Telex 041-34-74 CON: Arnold Sierra (resident in Manama) USA PL ADM: Sandra Wenner IRS: W. Dennis Melton RSO: L. Andrew Dillard (resident in Riyadh) PO: Peter S. Perenyi BPAO: (Vacant) (resident in Riyadh) CON: Robert 0. Tatge ADM: William A. Heidt ROMANIA PORTUGAL BUCHAREST (E), Strada Tudor Arghezi 7-9, or AmConGen (Buch), APO NY 09213; Tel [40] (0) 10-40-40; Telex 11416 LISBON (E), Avenida das Forcas Armadas, 1600 Lisbon; APO NY 09678-0002; Tel [351] (1) 726-6600, 726-6659, 726- AMB: Roger Kirk. ADM: Mary C. Pendleton 8670, 726-8880; Telex 12528 AMEMB DCM: Henry L. Clarke RSO: William J. Maher POL: Michael E. Parmly AGR: Steve Washenko AMB: Edward M. Rowell RSO: Daniel M. Lafranchi ECO: James H. Williamson (resident in Belgrade) DCM: Wesley W. Egan AGR: Omero Sabatini COM: Kay R. Kuhlman PRESS/CULT: C. Miller Crouch POL: (Vacant) AID: David C. Leibson CON: Virginia C. Young ODA: Col George Strimbu USA ECO: John Curry PAO: Richard A. Virden COM: Carlos Poza ODA: Col Howard E. Lynch RWANDA LAB: Martin G. Brennan USAF CON: Arturo Macias MAAG: Col Kevin J. O'Neill USA KIGALI (E), Blvd. de la Revolution, B.P. 28; Tel [205] 75601/2/3 and ADM: Thomas M. Widenhouse 72126/7/8 OPORTO (C), Rua Julio Dinis 826, 3d Floor, 4000 Oporto; AMB: Leonard H.O. Spearman, Sr. RSO: Edwin Howard Tel [351] (2) 63094 and 690008 DCM: Sue Ford Patrick (resident in Bujumbura) ECO/COM/CON: Christopher S. GSO: Robert F. Hannan, Jr. PO: Jacklyn A. Cahill CON: Kim M. White Wilson AID: James A. Graham ADM: Barbara Sand PAO: Kathleen Tormey 32 HONG KONG-ICELAND INDIA 33 HONG KONG INDIA HONG KONG (CG), 26 Garden Rd.; Box 30, FPO San Fran 96659-0002; NEW DELHI (E), Shanti Path, Chanakyapuri 110021; Tel [91] (11) Tel [852] (5) 239011; Telex 63141 USDOC HX 600651; Telex 031-65269 USEM IN; USIS Tel 331-6841 or 4251 CG: Donald M. Anderson ADM: D. Thomas Linville CHG: R. Grant Smith RSO: John Kaufmann RSO: Frank E. Juni DPO: Arthur L. Kobler AGR: Phillip C. Holloway POL: George F. Sherman SCI: POL/ECO: Kaarn J. Weaver Peter Hydemann ECO: Duane C. Butcher PAO: Robert E. Knopes AGR: Lyle J. Sebranek COM: Ying Price CON: John H. Adams CUS: John L. Rennish COM: Melvin W. Searls, Jr. AID: Robert N. Bakley LAB: William R. Salisbury PAO: Leonard Badyga CON: Leo Wollemborg ODA: Col Leon T. Hunt HUNGARY ADM: Bert C. Moore ODC: Col Scott Fisher USAF BUDAPEST (E), V. Szabadsag Ter 12; Am Embassy; APO NY 09213 ; Tel [36] (1) 126-450; Telex 18048 224-222; Commercial Devel Ctr: Telex 227136 USCDC H BOMBAY (CG), Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd. 400026; Tel [91] (022) 822-3611; Telex 011-75425 ACON IN AMB: Mark Palmer ADM: Wayne K. Logsdon DCM: Donald B. Kursch RSO: Kenneth Kayatin CG: John J. Eddy CON: John W: Vessey III POL: Thomas A. Lynch AGR: Robert Svec POL: Andrew C. Mann ADM: James L. Williams ECO: Sandra A. Dembski (resident in Vienna) ECO: David E. Thurman BPAO: Alan L. Gilbert COM: Stephan Wasylko ODA: Col Ruth Anderson USA COM: David A. Hughes CON: Elizabeth Barnett SCI: Thomas A. Schlenker PRESS/CULT: Robert McCarthy CALCUTTA (CG), 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, Calcutta 700071; Tel [91] (033) 44-3611/6; Telex 021-2483 CG: Kenneth C. Brill ICELAND CON: Richard D. Haynes POL/ECO: (Vacant) ADM: Stephen B. Hogard ECO/COM: James C. Newmann REYKJAVIK (E), Laufasvegur 21; FPO NY 09571-0001; BPAO: Bruce J. Kruetzer Tel [354] (1) 29100; Telex USEMB IS3044 CON: Fredericka Schmadel-Heard MADRAS (CG), Mount Rd. 600006; Tel [91] (44) 473-040/477-542 AMB: L. Nicholas Ruwe DCM: James K. Connell ADM: Joseph R. Manzanares CG: Thomas E. Timberman CON: Gilbert J. Sperling POL: Richard H. Zorn RSO: Christopher Lyons POL/ECO: Nancy C. Johnson ADM: Edward C. Pope POL/MIL: Clyde P. Berryman (resident in Copenhagen) COM: (Vacant) BPAO: John Challinor ECO/COM: Jay L. Dehmlow PAO: Hugh J. Ivory 50 NEPAL-NETHERLANDS ANTILLES NEW ZEALAND-NICARAGUA 51 NEPAL NEW ZEALAND KATHMANDU (E), Pani Pokhari; Tel [977] 411179, 412718, 411601; WELLINGTON (E), 29 Fitzherbert Ter., Thorndon, Wellington; Telex NP 2381 AEKTM P.O. Box 1190; FPO San Fran 96690-0001; Tel [64] (4) 722-068; Telex NZ 3305 AMB: Milton Frank ADM: Norma L. Kleiber DCM: Albert A. Thibaul RSO: Mark C. Boyett AMB: Paul M. Cleveland ADM: Landon C. Carter POL/ECO: Hunt Janin AID: David A. Wilson DCM: Alphonse F. La Porta RSO: Robert A. Conrad ECO/COM: Candy Green PAO: William C. Dawson POL: Donald L. Jameson (resident in Canberra) CON: Charles Parish, Jr. ODA: Col Charles L. Woodhurst ECO: Verne R. Dickey AGR: Evans Browne III USA LAB: Robert G. Loftis PAO: Michael J. Gould CON: Robert A. Callard ODA: Capt John S. Baldwin NETHERLANDS USN THE HAGUE (E), Lange Voorhout 102; APO NY 09159; Tel [31] (70) 62-49-11; Telex (044) 31016 AUCKLAND (CG), 4th FI., Yorkshire General Bldg.; CNR Shortland and O'Connell Sts., Auckland; Private Bag, Auckland; AMB: John S. Shad AGR: Norval Francis FPO San Fran 96690-0002; Tel [64] (9) 32-724; Telex NZ 3305 DCM: John H. Rouse PAO: C. William La Salle POL: Alan R. McKee CG: Edric Sherman CON: Linda M. Brown ODA: Capt Roger E. Carlson ECO: David Rehfuss USN COM: Bobette K. Orr COM: Harrison B. Sherwood ODC: Col Robert G. Hanus ADM: Timothy E. Roddy USAF NICARAGUA RSO: Robert J. Whigham LAB: Jesse Clear CUS: James W. Wilkie MANAGUA (E), Km. 4-1/2 Carretera Sur.; APO Miami 34021; Tel [505] (2) 666010, 666013, 666015-18, 666026-27, 666032-34 AMSTERDAM (CG), Museumplein 19; APO NY 09159; Tel [31] (20) 64-56-61 or 79-03-21; Telex 044-16176 CGUSA NL CHG: John P. Leonard RSO: Robert J. Kircher POL: John S. Boardman AGR: John Jacobs CG: Jake Dyels CON: Walter Davenport ECO: (Vacant) (resident in Guatemala) COM: George F. Ruffner CON: Wayne Griffith AID: (Vacant) LAB: C. Michael Konner PAO: Louis P. Falino NETHERLANDS ANTILLES (resident in Tegucigalpa) ODA: Ltc Ramon Fernandez- ADM: John W. Fuhrer Conte USA CURACAO (CG), St. Anna Blvd. 19; P.O. Box 158, Willemstad, Curacao; Tel [599] (9) 613066; Telex 1062 AMCON NA CG: Martin McLean AGR: Lloyd J. Fleck DPO: David Dreher (resident in Caracas) CON: William L. Rada PAO: Margaret Westmoreland RSO: K. Scott McQuire (resident in Paramaribo) (resident in Caracas) The Delta Project preserving the environment and securing Zeeland against flooding ill R The -08 11 14 /10 10 12 1013 11.13 40606 08 11 /10 - 08 08 10 if STATE 08 11 07 08 07 08 0808 12-14 05 06 05 06 PIT to 0 06 05 17 06 07 05 07 And © 1 The Hollandsche IJssel storm flood barrier, 1958 2 Zandkreek Dam, 1960 3 Veerse Gat Dam, 1961 4 Grevelingen Dam, 1965 5 Volkerak Dam, 1969 6 Haringvliet Dam, 1971 7 Brouwers Dam, 1971 8 Oosterschelde Dam, 1986 9 Philips Dam, 1986 10 Markiezaatskade quay, 1983 11 Oesterdam, 1986 12 Bathse drainage canal, 1987 CARDIUM 35' FV ABI 30' 13) FP ABI 45' 40' The Delta Project preserving the environment and securing Zeeland against flooding 3 A permanent struggle The Netherlands is locked in a permanent At the end of the last ice age, around 10,000 struggle for survival. The country's name is years ago, the North Sea was formed and the self-explanatory: large areas of the Nether- area we now know as the Netherlands came lands lie below sea level. Stronger dykes, into existence as marshland. The region was dams and dunes are continually being con- uninhabitable for many centuries, but with the structed to keep the sea at bay and to ensure passage of time peat bogs formed and people that this densely-populated country remains settled on the higher dunes, where they hun- habitable. Half of the Netherlands would be ted, fished and practised a little farming. They flooded if it were not for the line of defences also built embankments to live on during that has been built over the centuries and the periods of high spring tides. The first roads, equipment to pump ground water and river canals and harbours were built by the Romans. water out of the low-lying polders. The first dykes were built in the 10th century, and with them the defence of the land turned The struggle is just as pressing today. The into a counterattack against the sea. Dykes Netherlands is sinking in relation to sea level at were constructed to protect existing land from a rate of 20 centimetres per century. Not only is floods, and also to reclaim new areas from the the ground settling, but sea level is also rising as sea, the polders. Reclaiming land was a profit- the temperature of the earth increases, causing able means of investing money that had been the polar icecaps to melt. Human activities such made in commerce and shipping. as burning coal, oil and gas produce carbon dioxide, creating the greenhouse effect and The clergy in particular supported the creation causing the temperature of the earth to of new polders. The tools were very simple, no increase ever faster. more than spades and baskets, and the first dykes were low embankments that were easily breached by the sea. Excess water in the pol- ders was an additional problem and sluices had to be constructed to discharge it into the sea at low tide. With the invention of the windmill around 600 years ago, it became possible to keep increasingly deeper polders dry. Further- more, the mills could pump large ponds and lakes dry so that even more new land could be reclaimed. The dykes, however, remained a primitive form of protection, built according to traditional methods. It was not until the 19th century that new materials, techniques and tools such as concrete, stone embankments and steam-engines appeared. The Dutch fight a constant war against the rivers and the sea Large ponds and lakes are drained with windmills 4 Countless floods The flood disaster of The sea has had many opportunities in the past 1953 claimed 1,835 lives to determine the shape of the Netherlands. The line of coastal defences shows where the water overpowered the people. Every century has witnessed floods. Many were given names, for example the Saint Aechten's Day Flood in 1288, the Saint Elizabeth's Day Floods in 1404 and 1421, the Saint Felix's Day Flood in 1530 and All Saints' Day Flood in 1570. Although the Dutch fought back, they often had to surrender large areas of land to the sea. The Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe (Zeeland Flanders), the Verdonken Land van Reimerswaal (South Beve- land) and Zuidland (Schouwen-Duiveland), for example, were all lost to the sea. On balance, during the past centuries more land has been lost than reclaimed. Floods have not been confined to particular periods or enabled to occur only by the limita- tions of technology. They have also occurred in the 20th century, for instance in 1906 and 1916. The greatest flood disaster in the coun- try's history occurred on the night of 1 February 1953. The sea surged into many polders in the southwest Netherlands, innundating some 200,000 cows, horses, pigs and other livestock 200,000 hectares of fertile farmland and flood- died and over 47,000 buildings were damaged. ing many towns and villages. The dykes were destroyed in 67 places and breached in over The dykes had not been equal to the unprece- 400. 1,835 people drowned and 72,000 were dentedly high water level of 4 to 5 metres forced to evacuate the region; more than above AOD (Amsterdam Ordnance Datum, mean sea level as defined for Amsterdam). The flood was caused by a spring tide, when excep- tionally low and high tides are produced as the influences of the sun and moon reinforce each other, in combination with a persistent north- westerly storm. The storm reached its peak in the middle of the night, and an hour of continu- ous wind force 12 coincided with the high tide. The water piled up against the dykes, spilled over the top of them and then began to wash them away. Most people were asleep when the sea overtook them. A great deal of assistance was offered from abroad. The people of the Netherlands were determined not to surrender the flooded land. Their thoughts first turned to repairing the damage and then to preventing a reoccurrence of such a disaster. They quickly resealed the The dikes break in many dykes and pumped the water out of the pol- Astronomical tides VLISSINGEN places ders. The experience they had gained in 5m pumping the island of Walcheren dry after the 4m bombing of its dykes in 1944, in damming the 3m Brielse Maas in 1950 and in damming the 2m Braakman inlet in 1952 proved invaluable. 1m Caissons, large watertight concrete structures, N.A.P. were indispensable as a means of blocking off 1m the channels quickly. The last breach, near 2m Ouwerkerk, was resealed in November 1953. 3m 0 4 8 12 16 20 0 4 8 12 16 20 0 4 8 12 UUR 31 JANUARI 1 FEBRUARI 2 FEBRUARI Graph showing changes in water levels 1953 5 The attractions of delta regions People have always been attracted to coastal However, the human settlement, transporta- regions. River estuaries in particular are obvious tion, agriculture, fishing, trade and industry that places for settlements; the river provides a flourish due to the favourable conditions of the communication route to the hinterland and also delta are a threat to the ecosystem. The increa- supplies alluvium that forms fertile soil. The sing size of ships requires the dredging of distributaries that branch from a river as it deeper navigation channels and the construc- approaches the sea often form a triangular tion of larger harbours. Industry discharges shape on the map. The mouth of the river Nile waste into the water, and toxins discharged in Egypt is a very good example of this. The hundreds of kilometres upstream eventually The mud flats are a ancient Greeks called the mouth of the Nile a settle with the alluvium at the mouth of the feeding ground for "delta" after the fourth letter of their alphabet, wading birds river. Human activities put the ecosystem under which was written in the form of a triangle. pressure. Since the beginning of the 1970s there Nowadays the term delta is widely used to has been a growing awareness that this pres- describe many areas where a river enters a sea sure cannot continue to increase unabated and or a lake. Apart from the Nile, other famous that a balance needs to be struck between the deltas include those of the Ganges, the Missis- interests of ecology and the economy. sippi, the Rhone and the Yangtze. In the south- west Netherlands the estuaries of the Rhine, Maas and Scheldt also form a delta. Low, flat deltas are vulnerable regions, and the inhabitants have good cause to construct dykes and embankments to protect themselves against the sea. As villages and towns flourish, though, and their economic importance as centres of trade, shipping and industry increases, the need to construct better forms of protection also increases. Deltas often provide many of the conditions needed to support a rich and varied system of plant and animal communities. Algae and plants grow in the shallow, relatively warm water, which light can penetrate easily. Their growth and the supply of organic matter from the sea and minerals from the river enable deltas to act as nurseries for young fish. The driving force behind the delta's ecosystem is the tide. The regular exposure of mud flats and sandbars at low tide and their submergence at high tide is indispensable to the innumerable shellfish, Birds abound in the worms and other fauna that live on them. These Dutch delta in turn are essential to the thousands of birds Food chain in the that feed on them at low tide. The lower Eastern Scheldt animals and birds form a small food chain, one The oyster, a popular of the many that exist in the water, the mud elicacy from the waters flats and the higher-lying salt marshes. of the delta 6 Securer flood defences Shortly after the 1953 flood a specially In 1958, Parliament passed the Delta Act, which appointed committee presented proposals for set out plans to ensure the safety of the south- the prevention of another disaster in the west Netherlands, to the great enthusiasm of future. The proposals centred on improving the public. In addition to reducing the risk of safety by strengthening the coastal defences. A flooding by increasing the height of the dykes proposal to shorten the length of the coastline and shortening the coastline by 700 kilometres, was enthusiastically received, as, after all, the the Delta Project would also create consider- strength of a defensive line increases as its able economic benefits. It would improve water length decreases. This has been the principle management in a large proportion of the behind many other hydraulic engineering Netherlands and combat the penetration of salt works, an outstanding example of which is the water into the ground water. Freshwater lakes Barrier Dam which was constructed in 1932 would form and be an important source of across the mouth of the Zuyder Zee, now called water for farms. New recreational areas, parti- the IJsselmeer, to protect it from the incursions cularly for water sports, would be created. The of the North Sea. By constructing this single construction of dams would also considerably dam, the length of the coastline was reduced improve the road network in the southwest by 300 kilometres and the danger of flooding in Netherlands. a large area of the country was entirely elimi- nated. One of the Project's drawbacks was that the The committee recommended that the tidal saltwater fishing industry and the shellfish channels in the Rhine, Maas and Scheldt Delta farms would disappear. The oyster and mussel should be dammed near the coast and that the farms centred on the town of Yerseke were an dykes along the sea and the rivers in the rest of important source of income in the Eastern the country should be raised to allow for a Scheldt region, but would be destroyed after water level of five metres above AOD at the the inlets were dammed. Shellfish cultivation Hook of Holland. This would reduce the fre- would have to be transferred to other areas. In quency of inland flooding to an average of those days very little consideration was paid to once every ten thousand years and flooding in the environment; flood protection and the the inlets to once every four thousand years, economy were the main issues. which seemed quite safe enough for the time being. The New Waterway and the Western Scheldt had to be kept open to shipping due to their economic importance to the ports of Rotterdam and Antwerp. The surrounding dykes would therefore also be raised to the same height as those in the Delta. The sea walls must be able to hold back water levels of 5 meters + Normal Amsterdam Level (NAP) Oyster beds in Yerseke New water sport areas created by the Delta Plan 7 Fewer dykes The original plans for the Delta Project entailed the construction of huge dams in four tidal inlets, the Veerse Gat, the Eastern Scheldt, the Brouwershavense Gat and the Haringvliet, which would reduce the length of the sea- dykes in the region from over 700 kilometres to just 25 kilometres. In addition, three dams were also planned further inland in the Volkerak, Grevelingen and Zandkreek channels. The Volkerak dam would separate the freshwater and saltwater environments, and the dams in the Grevelingen and Zandkreek would elimin- ate uncontrollable currents in the tidal area. The Krammer locks in the Some unusual civil engineering structures Philips Dam would be needed for specific purposes. A storm A birds eye view of the surge barrier was to be built in the Hollandse western delta area IJssel to protect the low-lying but densely- populated region of South Holland. A large sluice complex was to be built in the Haringvliet dam to discharge any excess water from the Rhine and the Maas into the North Sea. Locks were also to be built in several dams for commercial ships and pleasure craft. 8 New techniques The Delta Project was a challenge to Dutch Prefabrication became a common technique hydraulic engineers. It was evident that past and in addition to new materials, new equip- experience and existing techniques would not ment was also very valuable. Sluice caissons be sufficient to enable dams to be constructed were developed. A cableway with gondolas was across the wide and deep tidal channels. The developed to tip stone into the channels. tidal range in the Delta is approximately three Hydrodynamic study techniques were refined metres and the water flows in and out twice a by developing laboratory tests. The computer day with powerful currents shifting enormous gradually made its entrance. Measuring techni- quantities of sand. Weather conditions in the ques and weather forecasts became more estuaries are often unfavourable and North Sea accurate. The Delta Project would take 25 years storms produce powerful waves. New techni- to complete. A new age was dawning for ques had to be developed quickly so that the hydraulic engineering. Delta Project could be carried out. The towering caissons were adapted and improved. Man-made fibres were used for the first time to protect the seabed and to clad the dykes. The traditional seabed protection method, which involved covering the seabed with large osier mats made of willow wood and weighted with stone, was gradually replaced. Changes took place step by step. It was decided Scale model in the hydro- to implement the Delta Project by working dynamic laboratory from small to large so that technological Model of storm flood progress would keep pace with the growth in barrier currents experience. The implementation of the Delta Project The storm surge barrier in the Hollandse IJssel 1958 The implementation of the Delta Project began with the construction of a storm surge barrier across the river the Hollandse IJssel, which forms an open passageway to the sea via the Nieuwe Maas. The barrier was built just to the east of Rotterdam and completed in 1958. It protects the lowest-lying region of the Netherlands from flooding. The 80 metre wide barrier consists of four piers towering over 44 metres above AOD, two gates suspended between the piers, a shipping lock and a road bridge. Under normal conditions the gates are raised high above the water so as not to impede shipping, but when the water level is dangerously high they can be lowered, effectively damming the river. When the barrier is closed ships can pass through the lock. Storm flood barrier in the Hollandse IJssel 10 The Zandkreek dam 1960 The Delta Project really got underway with the construction of the dams. First on the agenda was the Three Islands Project, which would connect the islands of Walcheren, North Beveland and South Beveland with each other. Work began in 1959 on a dam with a lock between North and South Beveland in the Zandkreek channel. The 830 metre long dam was constructed using caissons and completed in May 1960. By this date the construction of the dam across the Veerse Gat between Walcheren and North Beveland was progressing well. Around 70 million m³ of water flowed through the Veerse Gat with each tide. The Zandkreek Dam with lock The Veerse Gat dam 1961 A new technique was needed to dam the Veerse Gat. The usual caissons were adapt and what are known as sluice caissons we Veerse Gatdam developed. Sluice caissons have sealable The last caisson is almost openings so that at first water can flow place at the Veerse Gat Dam through them freely while a dam is being constructed. Seven sluice caissons, each a An open caisson being high as a seven-storey building, were place transported to the last the 320 metre wide channel on a sill made gap in the dike tipped stone. The dam was completed in A 1961. The sluices were closed at slack wa between low and high tide. The closure of first inlet had been completed and a lake, t Veerse Meer, had been created. A dyke wa quickly laid over the caissons to finish th work. ITALIE 12 10 The Grevelingen dam 1965 A start had been made in 1958 on the six- kilometre dam across the Grevelingen channel between Schouwen-Duiveland and Goeree- Overflakkee, which would ultimately incorporate a lock and harbours near Bruinisse. A substantial part of the dam was constructed on the Oude Tonge sandbar using the well-tried method of dredging sand. Two channels remained open. The small southern channel was dammed using solid caissons placed on a sill constructed from new materials - nylon and mastic asphalt. A new method was used to dam the larger, northern channel: a cableway with gondolas suspended from steel cables nine centimetres thick was spanned across the channel and used to gradually dam it by tipping 170,000 tons of Cableway above stone. The dam was completed in 1965 and a Grevelingen road along the top opened to traffic. assageway through the Grevelingen Dam Bulldozers and diggers on the future Grevelingen Dam 13 The Volkerak locks The Volkerak dam 1969 Taking advantage of the new techniques, the Volkerak channel between the Haringvliet and Hollandsch Diep channels was dammed to improve water management and the transport network. The work, which commenced in 1957, consisted of a dam across the Hellegatsplaten (a series of sandbars) and the Hellegatsplein (an artificial island), a bridge spanning the 1200 metres across the Haringvliet, and a large lock and sluice complex and a solid dam at the mouth of the Volkerak. The dam across the Hellegatsplaten and Hellegatsplein, the Hellegats dam, was constructed entirely of sand. The Volkerak was dammed in the spring of 1969 using 12 sluice caissons. By that date the locks, built near the town of Willemstad, were already being used by ships on the busy Scheldt-Rhine shipping route. 14 The Haringvliet dam 1971 It took 14 years to construct the Haringvliet dam, which extends 4.5 kilometres between Goeree and Voorne. A unique design was developed as the dam had to remain open for the purposes of water management and the discharge of excess water from the Maas and the Rhine: a sluice complex with a channel width of 1,000 metres and a lock for fishing boats. The 17 sluices can be closed with steel gates on both the sea and the river side. The gates were made in an excavated construction site surrounded by an encircling dyke - similar to a polder - in the middle of the Haringvliet. The sluice complex temporarily functioned as sluice caissons, and the dam was completed in 1970 by tipping 100,000 concrete blocks using a cableway. A road built along the dam was opened in 1971. rench with Haringvliet sluices under construction Drainage sluices in the Haringvliet Dam 15 Brouwers Dam Cableway at the Brouwershavense Gat The Brouwers dam 1971 The final rehearsal for the last part of the Delta Project, the Eastern Scheldt, was the construction of a dam across the 6.5 kilometre wide and 30 metre deep Brouwershavense Gat between Goeree and Schouwen. Work began in 1962 using various well-tried methods. Sand dams were dredged on the shallow Kabbelaarsbank and Middelplaten sandbars. The northern channel, Springersdiep, was dammed using sluice caissons, which had been constructed in a special construction dock in the Grevelingen. The southern channel, the Brouwershavense Gat, was dammed using the cableway method. The dam was completed at the end of 1971, creating a new lake, the Grevelingenmeer. A sluice was built into the dam ten years after its completion in order to flush the Grevelingenmeer with water from the North Sea to keep the salt content of the lake at an appropriate level. 16 The most difficult project The Eastern Scheldt dam, 1986 According to the original plans the dam across the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt inlet would have been completed in 1978, 25 years after the flood disaster. The construction of this dam, extending eight kilometres between Schouwen and North Beveland, would be the most difficult part of the Delta Project. The inlet had an average tidal range of three metres and its deepest channel was 40 metres deep. 1,100 million m³ of water flowed through the channels at each tide, considerably more than the 350 million m³ that flowed through the Brouwershavense Gat. Work commenced in 1967. The construction islands Roggenplaat, Neeltje Jans and Noordland were built on three shallow sandbars. Neeltje Jans and Noordland were later linked to each other by a three-kilometre dam. Approximately five kilometres of the dam had been completed by the end of 1973. Three channels remained open, the Hammen, Schaar van Roggenplaat and Roompot channels, with a total width of three kilometres. According to the plans they were to be dammed using the cableway method and prefabricated concrete blocks. Steel towers for the cableway had already been erected in the channels, but they were never to be used. There was an increasing body of public opinion in the Netherlands which felt that the Eastern Scheldt should remain open to conserve the environment and the fishing industry. Social pressure forced though a radical change in the Delta Project. SCHOUWEN HAMMEN ROGGENPLAAT SCHAAR VAN ROGGENPLAAT NEELTJE JANS DAMVAK GEUL NOORDLAND Roompot lock ROOMPOT Tidal channels NOORD BEVELAND and damextensions in the Eastern 0 1500m Scheldt Increasing environmental awareness The technical progress that had been achieved during the implementation of the Delta Project had not occurred in isolation. There had been a general and rapid growth in the economies of the western industrialised nations. Standards of living and levels of consumption had increased. The growth of opportunities, knowledge and power seemed to know no bounds. Cities were expanding, the road network was growing Sting-ray constantly, communications links were bringing far-away places closer to home and man was walking on the moon. With its emphasis on flood protection, increases in scale and the use of the very latest techniques, the Delta Project was a part of this era. In the second half of the 1960s opinions about the environment changed. There was a growing awareness that the global assault on the envi- ronment could have catastrophic results. The idea gained ground that there had to be limits to growth, and the optimistic view of the future began to fade. This ultimately led to a fresh approach being adopted for the Delta Project. The construction of a solid dam across the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt lost the general support it had once commanded. If the dam were built, the Eastern Scheldt would no longer be a tidal inlet, the salt water would become fresh and instead of rising and falling with the tides the water level would be con- stant. Moreover, the plant and animal commun- ities would be transformed and the shellfish would disappear. More and more people realised that the Eastern Scheldt was an area of exceptional value and became concerned about the effects that damming the inlet would have on the flora and fauna. Scientists, nature conservationists and fishermen spearheaded the protest against a solid dam. Their alternative was to raise the height of the surrounding dykes. Politicians initially refused to consider the plans. They had promised to dam the Eastern Scheldt, and they would keep their word. The fight to keep the Eastern Scheldt open, however, gradually received wider support, even in political circles. How people believed the inlet should be made safe became a yardstick for measuring their environmental awareness. The government decided to commission a special committee to perform a new study. In 1974 the committee The Eastern Scheldt recommended a compromise: the Eastern estuary holds an Scheldt should be kept open most of the time abundance of lobster but closed whenever there was a risk of flood- Demonstration against ing. plans to seal off the Eastern Scheldt completely Hermit crab Seals return to the Eastern Scheldt estuary 18 Unique wildlife area The Eastern Scheldt is a rich and unique wildlife The Eastern Scheldt is a nursery for fish such as area. It is a tidal inlet entirely free of the in- sole, cod, plaice and herring, which breed else- fluence of freshwater rivers and is thus com- where but grow in the tidal inlet, and also a pletely saline. The tides generate fast-flowing breeding ground for others such as gar, currents as the water from the North Sea flows anchovy and pout. There are over 75 different into the inlet through channels up to 40 metres species of fish in the inlet. The Eastern Scheldt deep and two kilometres wide. Sandbars and enjoys an international reputation for its bird- shallows lie between the channels. In the more life. Many thousands of birds rest there during inland section of the Eastern Scheldt the chan- migration or come to spend the winter, the nels become narrower and shallower. The clean summer or the breeding season. There is an water, with its high salt content and relatively abundance of food; the water is pure and rarely warm temperature, provides unusual condit- freezes in winter. The area is particularly impor- ions. tant for water birds. The Eastern Scheldt is home to ducks, geese, oystercatchers, plovers All kinds of plants and animals that usually live and avocets. Many rare plants and animals live only in more southerly climes can be found in on the bed of the inlet. There are also mussels the Eastern Scheldt. The ecosystem is highly and oysters, which are economically very impor- developed, with many organisms, both common tant. and uncommon. Many valuable species of flora and fauna live on the stone and concrete-clad dykes, for example lichens, snails, sea acorns, sponges, anemones, crabs and starfish. There are dozens of varieties of seaweed, including some rare ones. The Eastern Scheldt is a rich store of food, plankton being the most impor- tant resource. A million tons of vegetation is produced each year, most of which sinks to the bottom where creatures living on the bed take full advantage of it. In their turn, fish, crusta- ceans and birds feed on the creatures living on the bed. irds on the salt marshes Sea anemone Mussels 19 Along the edges of the Eastern Scheldt there are extensive mud flats, which appear to be barren but are in fact teeming with life. Birds in particular take advantage of them. Towards the dykes, where the mud flats have gradually silted up, salt marshes have formed. Saltwater plants grow on the undulating land between the low and high tide marks, which is drained by count- The surface area of salt less streams. Some sections of the salt marshes marshes and mud flats in the Eastern Scheldt are so high that they are submerged only estuary is reduced by the during spring tides. There is a rich and colourful storm flood barrier diversity of plants. Glasswort and sea aster are harvested for human consumption. A few of the salt marshes are grazed by sheep. The salt marshes form one of the few natural land- scapes remaining in the Netherlands. This too is one of the unique features of the Eastern Scheldt. 20 The half-open dam At the end of 1974 Parliament recognised the importance of keeping the Eastern Scheldt open and decided to change the plans for the Delta Project. It was not an easy decision to take and there were many opponents to it, so a compromise had to be reached. The plan for a solid dam was abandoned and the engineers were requested to design a reliable method of protection that would also preserve the valu- able environment. A design for the half-open dam had to be worked out subject to several conditions: it had to be technically feasible; the additional costs had to be kept to a minimum; and the area around the Eastern Scheldt had to be protected from flooding by 1985. The hydraulic engineers were confronted with an entirely new problem, one at the very limits of their technical know-how. As there would no longer be a dam by 1978, the government provided funds to reinforce the weak dykes Creation of pitchings on bordering the inlet. The reinforcement of the the dike dykes considerably improved the safety of the area before the new barrier was completed. Pushing back the frontiers The engineers' problem was to design and con- placed in the three channels, Hammen, Schaar struct a reliable, open barrier that would allow van Roggenplaat and Roompot, and firmly the tide to enter the Eastern Scheldt each day. anchored with masses of stone, and 62 steel Such a project had never been carried out gates that could be raised or lowered would be anywhere in the world. The knowledge and placed between the piers. Under normal condit- experience gained during the implementation ions the gates would be raised SO that the tidal of the previous parts of the Delta Project were movement in the inlet would be largely no longer sufficient and there was little time retained, thus preserving the environment. The available. Of the various solutions that were gates would be lowered during storms when proposed the engineers decided on a storm exceptionally high waterlevels were expected, surge barrier across the mouth of the Eastern damming the Eastern Scheldt from the North Scheldt. Parliament agreed to the project in Sea and guaranteeing protection from flooding. mid-1976. The idea behind the storm surge barrier was simple: 65 concrete piers would be As the storm surge barrier would reduce the tide to some extent, it would be necessary to compartmentalise the Eastern Scheldt by build- Location of the ing dams inland of the barrier. This would compartimentalisation works reduce the tidal area so as to maintain a suffic- ient difference in level between high and low tide, namely an average tidal range of 3.2 metres at Yerseke, which was important for the fishing industry. It also guaranteed that the Scheldt-Rhine shipping link would be non-tidal, as the Netherlands government had promised Belgium. Compartmentation had the additional advantage of separating salt water from fresh water, which was desirable for efficient envi- ronmental conservation and water manage- ment. Freshwater peripheral lakes were formed behind the Philips dam in the northeast and the Oester dam in the southeast. A discharge canal was dredged, leading to the Western Scheldt, to control the level and quality of these lakes. For technical and environmental reasons a further dyke was constructed near Bergen op Zoom, which also created a new lake. The final part of the compartmentation works made the canal through South Beveland suitable for pushed barges. 21 Step-by-step construction The storm surge barrier was constructed step The barrier is very heavy and the seabed had to by step. Solid foundations were needed in the be compacted to a depth of 15 metres using a sandy bed of the Eastern Scheldt, where enor- specially designed vessel, the Mytilus, to mous quantities of sand are continuously being increase its bearing capacity. The Mytilus drove moved, changing the location of sandbars and four steel tubes into the bed, which were channels. The bed where the piers were to vibrated to force water out from between the stand had to be improved. The first operation grains of sand, eliminating quicksand and thus was to lay block mattresses made of concrete strengthening the bed. It took three years to blocks attached to polypropylene sheets to compact the bed in this manner. Bed protec- protect the seabed around the area where the tion, improvement and depth compaction, piers were to stand. At the site itself, clay strata however, were not enough to ensure that the were were dredged out and replaced with sand piers could be placed safely. A foundation had covered with a layer of gravel to prevent it to be constructed on the reinforced bed to from being scoured out during storms. prevent the sand from being washed away and to guarantee that the piers would stand evenly. The Mytilus sea-bed compression vessel 22 Polypropylene mattresses Polypropylene mattresses filled with graded layers of gravel were used in the foundations. They were made at a factory that had been specifically built for their production. Two kinds of mattresses were made, lower mattresses 200 metres long, 42 metres wide and 36 centi- metres thick, and upper mattresses measuring Mat factory on the Neeltje Jans artificial 60x31 metres. 65 mattresses of each kind were island needed. As the mattresses were produced in the factory they were rolled onto huge floating drums and then placed on a specially-designed vessel, the Cardium, which laid them. The seabed was first levelled using the extra-wide suction nozzle on the bow of the Cardium before the vessel rolled the mattresses into position. It sounds a simple operation, but the mattresses had to be laid with extreme preci- sion, which is not so simple in a turbulent tidal inlet. Furthermore, they could only be laid during the short period of slack water between low and high tide, which lasts for just one hour. If a mattress had not been fully unrolled before the tide turned, it would have been destroyed by the force of the ebb tide. Fortunately, this never occurred. When the mattresses were being laid the Cardium was assisted by another specially- designed vessel, the Jan Heijmans. This vessel held the ends of the mattresses in place and sealed the seams between them with layers of stone. The piers were placed 45 metres apart, so there was a three-metre seam between them and the 42 metre wide mattresses. Laying the mattresses was a critical stage in the con- struction of the storm surge barrier: it deter- mined the evenness of the seabed and the strength of the barrier. he Cardium mat-laying vessel with the The mattresses are filled with graded layers of lan Heijmans stone and sand and gravel and act as filters, trapping the asphalt tipper sand in place on the seabed but allowing water The Cardium rolls off to flow through them. The mattresses were laid a mat quickly. In some sections a block mattress was laid on top of them to smooth out any uneven- ness. Another special mattress, a gravel ballast mattress, was finally laid over the seams to prevent the stone from being washed away. The final result was a flat "carpet", more level than most football pitches, across a 200 metre section of the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt. 23 The backbone of the barrier The 65 enormous piers from the backbone of the barrier. They were constructed in three large construction docks 15 metres deep, which were kept dry by 320 underwater pumps. The piers are colossal structures made of pre- stressed concrete to keep their weight to a minimum. They are 30 to 40 metres tall and have a dry weight of up to 18,000 tons. The height of the piers depended upon their ultimate position in one of the channels. A purpose-built factory produced 450,000 m³ of concrete over four years. The piers were hollow and were filled with sand when they Serial construction of pillars were in position. They are not featureless monoliths but contain many notches and inden- Pillars in a building dock tations where the other concrete components and the steel gates are attached. It took just under one and a half years to construct each pier. As all the piers had to be completed in only four years, they were produced in stag- gered batches with work beginning on a new pier every two weeks. At the peak of activity 30 piers were being constructed simultaneously. 24 Unusual vessels When all the piers in a construction dock were Work on the piers was far from over once they completed, the dock was flooded and the had been placed. They still needed to be grou- encircling dyke was opened so that they could ted, which involved filling the space between be transported to one of the channels in the the foot of the pier and the foundation mouth of the Eastern Scheldt. This operation mattress with grout, a mixture of sand, cement too required unusual vessels. The Ostrea was and water, to achieve a perfect bond with the designed and built to lift the piers in the con- mattress. Once this operation was completed, struction dock, transport them to the channels the lower sections of the piers were filled with and then place them with great precision on sand to increase their stability. They were then the mattresses. The Macoma was specially built covered with a layer of concrete to protect to moor the Ostrea while it was placing the them from damage. The foot of the piers was piers and to clean the site immediately before- protected by stone/asphalt bags, each weighing hand. The piers were positioned with pin-point 30 to 40 tons. These were necessary as each accuracy at slack water using very sophisticated pier had to be embedded in a sill made of The Ostrea crane vessel measuring equipment. It took a year to place dumped stone. and the Macoma them all. mooring and cleansing pontoon shortly after a pillar has been installed The turn of the tide, the right time to install the pillars Ten-ton stones The sill increased the piers' stability and also helped dam the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt The ultimate intention was that only that part of the barrier which could be closed by gates was to remain open. The sill was constructed of graded layers of stone. Lighter stones were placed at the bottom and huge blocks weighing as much as ten tons (10,000 kilogrammes) were placed on top. These blocks have to be so heavy in order to withstand the powerful currents that would build up if one of the gates refused to close during a storm. The largest stones could not be dropped into position as the risk of their damaging the piers was too great. The Trias was therefore designed to lay the top layer of stone. This vessel was equipped with a large crane with a long extendable arm that was used to place the heavy stones accurately. Five million tons of stone were used in the con- struction of the sill. It had to be imported over a period of four years from Germany, Finland, Sweden and Belgium as it was not available in the Netherlands. When the work on the foundations, the piers and the underwater sill was finished, a large part of the battle had been won, although there was still a lot of work to be done to complete the barrier. In order of assembly, service ducts, pier capping units, gates, sill beams and upper beams had to be installed. Stone deposits at the These are all indispensable components for the edge of the storm flood efficient operation of the storm surge barrier. barrier The concrete service duct, each section of The Trias top-layer which was 45 metres long, was placed on the tipping vessel in action piers by the floating crane Taklift 4. A major road now runs over the top of the service duct, The Taklift IV crane vessel with a road bridge box while part of the space inside it has been used girder in its hoist to house the operating and control equipment for the gates. Ever increasing currents The capping units were made of prestressed concrete and were installed to increase the height of the piers to accommodate the gate structure. The height of the 124 upper members varies from 4.3 to 10 metres and their weight from 250 to 450 tons. 62 concrete sill beams - hollow box girders 39 metres long, 8 metres wide and 8 metres high - were built in a con- struction dock to connect the piers to each other under water. After they had been posi- tioned between the piers, thus reducing the cross section of the channel and causing the speed of the current to increase, they were filled with sand. Above the water level the piers were connected to each other by concrete upper beams, which form the upper limit of the opening in the barrier. The steel gates were designed to hold back the Between the dam and waters of the North Sea during storms. Their the pier lies a quarry stone dam height varies from 5.9 to 11.9 metres depending upon their position in the barrier. The largest nstallation of sill beams gate, weighing 480 tons, is located in the in trench deepest channel, the Roompot. The gates were The Taklift hangs a lock installed between the piers using the Taklift 4. hatch in place When the gates are raised the Eastern Scheldt is open and sufficient water can flow into it to Positioning of lock atches is precision work ensure a tidal range of 3.2 metres at Yerseke, the centre of the shellfish industry. That is just over three-quarters of the original tidal range and enough to preserve the existing wildlife and the fishing industry. 27 Gates closed The gates consist of plating and tubular steel girders. The plating, which is on the Eastern Scheldt side, needs to be just one centimetre thick to withstand storms. The gates have been designed to resist the loads caused by different water levels on either side and can be raised or lowered in fast flowing water under adverse weather conditions. Each gate is opened or closed with the aid of two hydraulic cylinders, varying in length from 21.8 to 34.5 metres. The gates can be moved at a speed of three milli- metres per second, which means that it takes an hour to open or close the largest gate. The storm surge barrier is operated from the Tops-huis, the central control building standing high above the North Sea at some distance from the barrier. On average the barrier has to be closed once a year due to extremely high water levels. The Tops-huis also accommodates the Delta Expo, a permanent exhibition on 2,000 years of hydraulic engineering. On the southern part of the Neeltje Jans construction island the Roompot lock was built because ships can no longer pass freely through the mouth of The Ir. J.W. Tops-huis, the Eastern Scheldt. A road has been built on a the storm flood barrier viaduct above the barrier. service building The storm flood barrier is On 4 October 1986 Her Majesty Queen completely computer- Beatrix officially declared the storm surge controlled barrier in the Eastern Scheldt open. Queen Beatrix opens the Eastern Scheldt storm flood barrier. Standing with her are Transport and Public Works Minister Dr. Neelie Smit (left) and J. van Dixhoorn, the Director General of Public Works zee veilig 28 Other uses The storm surge barrier was constructed to provide greater protection from the sea and to preserve the unique and valuable environment of the Eastern Scheldt. This has largely deter- mined how and when the barrier is operated, and the steel gates will be kept open whenever possible. In principle the barrier is closed only when it is predicted that the high water level will exceed 3.25 metres above AOD. A danger level has also been decided upon, as the sea is often unpredictable and the water level can rise suddenly. If the water rises above the danger level the gates will close automatically. A warn- ing system has been developed that makes use of long-range weather forecasts. Opening or closing the barrier will affect the safety of the flood defences along the Eastern Scheldt (strong dykes are still necessary) and also the environment, the fishing industry, water management and shipping. When the barrier is operated, therefore, as much account as possible will be taken of conditions in the Eastern Scheldt. The barrier can of course be operated for other purposes in addition to flood prevention. Since this could endanger the environment, however, it has been decided that when the water level is not dangerously high the gates will be closed only to prevent oil or chemical pollution from entering the Eastern Scheldt, to limit the effects of dyke collapse and to prevent drift ice damag- ing the dykes. The storm surge barrier was also closed during the construction of the compart- mentation dams in 1986 and 1987 to moder- ate the effect of the tide. Reducing the tidal current made it possible to construct the Oester and Philips dams using sand. 29 New peripheral lakes The compartmentation dams necessitated by the building of the barrier were constructed on the border between the provinces of Zeeland and North Brabant. Interconnected peripheral lakes formed as a result of the construction of the Oester and Philips dams. From north to south these lakes are the Krammer/Volkerak, the Zoommeer and the Markiezaatsmeer. A sophisticated salt/freshwater separation system has been built into the Krammer lock complex to prevent the fresh water of the lakes mixing with the salt water of the Eastern Scheldt. Water can be discharged from the Zoommeer via the Bath canal into the Western Scheldt so that the level of the peripheral lakes is kept constant. The Oester and Philips dams were constructed using sand and are the largest sand dams in the world to have been constructed in Philips Dam flowing water. The Philips dam 1987 The Philips dam was constructed between Sint Philipsland and the Grevelingen dam. A large lock complex, the Krammer locks, was built on a construction island in the middle of the dam. Two locks were built for commercial shipping and are suitable for four-barge push-tows. A separate lock was built for pleasure craft. A salt/freshwater separation system was built into the lock complex to prevent large quantities of salt water entering the freshwater Krammer/Volkerak whenever a ship is locked through from the Eastern Scheldt, and conversely to prevent dilution of the Eastern Scheldt with fresh water. It works on the principle that salt water is denser than fresh water. During the lockage of ships to the Krammer/Volkerak the salt water of the Eastern Scheldt is replaced with fresh water, and the procedure is reversed for ships travelling in the opposite direction. This system has also been used in the Kreekrak locks to prevent the brackish and polluted water from the industrial area around Antwerp entering the Zoommeer. 30 The 10 Markiezaat dyke 1983 A special dyke had to be constructed to prevent strong currents building up during the construction of the Oester dam, which would have caused problems for shipping and weakened the banks. This dyke was built along the edge of the submerged former marquisate of Bergen op Zoom; hence its name, the Markiezaat dyke. A serious set-back occurred during the construction of this dyke, which extends five kilometres between the Kreekrak locks and the Molenplaat near Bergen op Zoom. 1982 it had been virtually Markiezaatskade quay completed and only the finishing work needed to be done when a storm surge 3.7 metres above AOD breached the dyke. The dyke was finally completed a year later. A freshwater lake has formed behind the Markiezaat dyke, most of which will remain a wildlife area. The Oester dam 1986 The Oester dam was built between Tholen and South Beveland. Extending nearly 11 kilometres, it is the longest of all the dams in the Delta. It separates the Scheldt-Rhine shipping route from the Eastern Scheldt, so that this important link is now non-tidal. The dam lies close to the Scheldt-Rhine link in the most easterly section of the inlet and therefore the majority of the Eastern Scheldt remains tidal. A lock, the Bergsche Diep lock, has been built in the dam near Tholen for pleasure craft and fishing boats moving between the Zoommeer and the Eastern Scheldt. The dam was built in an area where man had often done battle with the sea in the past. The composition of the bed was so erratic that it had to be improved in many places. The Oester Dam with the Bergse Diep lock 31 A simple technique A sluice has been built in the Grevelingen dam just south of the point where it meets the Philips dam. It uses a simple principle: that of the siphon. It does not need expensive gates. The siphon allows water to flow between the Grevelingenmeer and the Eastern Scheldt. The siphon and the discharge sluice in the Brouwers dam enable the Grevelingenmeer to be flushed with water to keep its salt content at an accep- table level. Water from the land inland of the compartmen- tation dams drains into the peripheral lakes and the level and quality of these lakes have to be controlled. Inlet sluices have been constructed in the Volkerak dam and when necessary water from the Rhine and Maas can enter the peri- pheral lakes via the Hollandsch Diep. As there are often toxins in the rivers, though, the river water is only rarely allowed to enter the peri- pheral lakes; otherwise the beds of the Kram- mer/volkerak and the Zoommeer would be covered with a layer of highly polluted alluvium. The Bath Discharge Canal 1987 The eight-kilometre Bath discharge canal has Bathse drainage sluice been excavated across the neck of South Beveland to discharge excess water from the The mouth of the canal rivers and polders. It runs parallel to the running through Zuid Beveland at Hansweert Scheldt-Rhine link and can discharge 8.5 million³ of water per day. At the outlet in the Western Scheldt there is a sluice made of concrete tunnels that forms part of the sea wall. The sluice gates are closed when the water level in the Western Scheldt is high, thus preventing salt water from the Western Scheldt entering the Zoommeer. The existing canal running through South Beveland was also improved as part of the compartmentation works. New locks were built at Hansweert, the canal was widened and a lock-free mouth was created near Wemeldinge. 32 The Delta project completed The bold programme of hydraulic engineering The Netherlands was willing to spend a lot of works in the Delta produced enormous changes money on the Delta Project. The cost of ensur- affecting people, animals, plants and the land- ing protection from flooding, radically improv- scape. Dams, locks and roads were constructed ing the communications network, distributing and new lakes and residential and recreational the scarce supplies of fresh water more effi- areas were created. Sweeping changes have ciently and preserving the unique ecosystem occurred in the age-old rhythm of ebb and came to Fl. 12,000 m. The work in the Eastern flow. The environment has altered in many Scheldt was the most expensive part of the places and in many ways. In addition to protect- Delta Project, costing Fl. 8,000 m. ing the southeast Netherlands from flooding and producing economic benefits, the imple- During the official opening ceremony of the mentation of the Delta Project increasingly took storm surge barrier, Queen Beatrix declared the account of ecological requirements. A delta is a Delta Project completed. The work in the south- very rich and varied system of plant and animal west Netherlands may be over, but there is still communities: an ecosystem that is also econo- a lot of work for the hydraulic engineers. Shal- mically important and very sensitive to human lows and sandbars are developing in front of intervention. the dams and headlands, and gradually becom- ing higher, promoting the formation of new channels. This area can offer new opportunities to the fishing industry and the environment. Plans are therefore already under consideration in connection with the Delta Project for the future of this area. The steady rise of the sea level also indicates that the protection of the Netherlands against the sea will remain a permanent struggle. Dutch hydraulic engineers believe that the knowledge and expertise they gained in the thirty years it took to complete The last lock hatch is put the Delta Project should also benefit other in place countries in addition to the Netherlands. The storm flood barrier is complete Colophon Ministry of Transport and Public Works Information Division Plesmanweg 5 - Den Haag January 1989 D67 Design: Dijkerman & van Waarden, Den Haag Photography: Aero camera Bart Hofmeester, Willem Diepraam, Peter de Ruig, Delta-phot, Rijkswaterstaat reprografie en Aeroview Lithography: Duolitho b.v., Zoetermeer Printed: De Lange van Leer, Deventer A - pier B - sill beam C - - upper beam E D gate c E - traffic road F sill G - foundation D B A F G Philips dam locks 65,7 Volkerak locks 168 Kats lock 5,9 Scheldt-Rhine link Canal through Walcheren Canal through South-Beveland 57 Kreekrak locks 97 Shipping routes in the southern Delta area in millions of tonnes capacity Haringvliet Mytilus Volkerak locks Siphon sluice Grevelingen Cardium m Philipsdam Jan Heijmans Oesterdam Trias Bath discharge canal Kreekrak locks Western Scheldt Taklift 4 Macoma and Ostrea Location of the compartimentalisation works Eastern Scheldt 1100 milj. m³ Western Scheldt 1100 milj. m³ Brouwershavense gat 360 milj. m³ Haringvliet 260 milj. m³ Veerse gat 70 milj. m³ Tidal volumes The flooded land in the 1953 storms. Meters vm Metres Fms 0 1 2 Voet Feet 65 80 85 95 40 20 90 50 60 25 55 30 45 70 10 15 75 35 O 5 3 4 25 20 27 24 26 23 29 19 28 22 17 21 16 12 14 10 13 18 15 11 4 6 8 5 2 9 7 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 TT 16 THE 12 12 TITLE 12 14 03 of 03 05 I's 90 07 05 07\ 307