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Bolivian President 1990 [OA 4425]
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Bolivian President 1990 [OA 4425]
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Records of the White House Office of Speechwriting (George H. W. Bush Administration)
Mary Kate Grant Subject Files
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FOIA
MARKER
This is not a textual record. This is used as an
administrative marker by the George Bush Presidential
Library Staff.
Record Group/Collection:
George H.W. Bush Presidential Records
Collection/Office of Origin:
Speechwriting, White House Office of
Series:
Grant, Mary Kate, Files
Subseries:
Subject File, 1988-1991
OA/ID Number:
13877
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13877-015
Folder Title:
Bolivian President, 1990
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19
2
7
2
1/20 Cut down to lit
time available
The Visit of President Paz Zamora of Bolivia
It has been a great pleasure to meet today with President Jaime
Paz Zamora. This is the third time since he took office last
August that we have met to discuss issues of importance to our
two countries. We met first last fall in New York and then in
February in Cartagena, Colombia where, together with our fellow
presidents from Colombia and Peru, we launched what promises to
be a new era of intense international cooperation against
narcotics trafficking.
Our conversations today have been wide-ranging and productive.
They have dealt with the inter related and mutually dependent
topics of economic development and the strengthening of
democracy, as well as with the threat of international
narcotics trafficking to our democratic institutions and our
societies.
We are continuing to build on the progress begun in Cartagena.
-- - Bolivia and the United States signed an extradition treaty just
a few days ago*, which will help us prosecute and punish
international narcotraffickers. whose dirty business has created
so much suffering and sorrow in our hemisphere.
* expected to be done by May 8
- 2 -
- - The Congresses of Bolivia and the United States were among the
first to ratify the Vienna Drug Convention*. This in both a
practical and symbolic sense puts both our countries in the
forefront among a growing group of nations who have committed
themselves to cooperate in the fight against drugs.
But as both President Paz and I know, simply signing
international treaties and multilateral accords is the easy
part of the job. Attacking our domestic problems requires the
greatest courage, I want to salute President Paz Zamora. In
the first four months of this year Bolivia has eradicated more
acres of illegal coca than it did all last year. In fact, if
the current pace of eradication is maintained, Bolivia may,
byth the middle 01 the decade
four years, be able to eliminate all coca grown within
its borders for illegal use. That would be a remarkable
achievement.
C
Bolivia is making good THIS progress on the narcotics front because
ADOPTED
President Paz has emb embraced an integrated strategy of
eradication, interdiction, and alternative development to fight
the cocaine trade. We agreed to that approach at Cartagena and
its effectiveness is now being demonstrated in Bolivia.
Interdiction reduces the
- 3 -
price of the coca leaf. Development programs offer the coca
growers aiternative crops that can enable them to maintain
their livelihood,
THE UNITED STATES EAS BEEN
I have been equally impressed by what Bolivia has done during
the past decade to strengthen its democratic institutions and
during the past five years to carry out far reaching economic
reform. President Paz, both in New York and at Cartagena,
impressed upon me the importance of development assistance to
his country, something that the United States has long
supported. This fiscal year, the United States will provide
Bolivia about 90 million dollars in economic aid. For the next
fiscal year, I have asked Congress for over 150 million dollars
in economic assistance for Bolivia.
Given Bolivia's strong economic reform effort and its effort
to structure its economy away from any dependency on nargotics
trafficking, I strongly support President Paz Zamora' effort
to encourage the Multilateral Development Banks to continue,
and where possible increase, their programs in Bolivia. I also
encourage American companies to consider investment in
Bolivia. I am delighted that a U.S. - Bolivian Trade and
Investment Consultative Mechanism is being formed to spur those
efforts.
- 4 -
At dartagena a new spirit of hemispheric cooperation and
determination was born. And this "Spirit of Cartagena has
been nowhere more in evidence than in Bolivia and in the person
of my friend President Paz Zamora.
Mr. President, on behalf of the American people, I congratulate
you and your countrymen for political and economic successes.
I also thank you for your efforts in combatting the cocaine
trade. The United States is also making a tremendous effort to
defeat our domestic cocaine problem. It has been a pleasure to
talk with you and share your insights. Bolivia exemplifies the
progress that the countries of our hemisphere are making in the
political, economic and counternareotics fronts. We thank you
for your leadership and wish you a safe return home.
Bolivia
October 1986
OFFICIAL NAME: Republic of Bolivia
PROFILE
National holidays: New Year's Day, Car-
nival, Good Friday, Labor Day (May 1),
Corpus Christi Day, La Paz Day (La Paz only,
Geography
July 16), Independence Day (August 6), All
Area: 1.1 million sq. km. (424,162 sq. mi.);
Saints Day (November 1), and Christmas Day.
PERU
BRAZIL
about the size of Texas and California com-
Flag: red, yellow, and green horizontal
bined. Cities: Capital-La Paz (administra-
bands from top to bottom; the coat of arms is
La Paz
tive) 955,000; Sucre (judicial) 84,500. Other
centered on the yellow band.
BOLIVIA
cities-Santa Cruz (419,642 est.), Cochabamba
Sucre
(304,960 est.). Terrain: Mountains, high
Pacific
Economy
PARAGUAY
plateau, valleys, and tropical lowlands.
Ocean
Climate: Varies with altitude-from humid
GDP (1985): $4 billion. Annual growth rate
CHILE
and tropical to semi-arid and cold.
(1985): - 1.7%. Per capita income (1985):
$536. Inflation rate (1986): 10%.
ARGENTINA
Natural resources: Tin, natural gas,
People
petroleum, zinc, tungsten, antimony, silver,
Nationality: Noun and adjective-Bolivian(s).
lead, gold, iron, (also lithium, potassium, and
Population (1986 est.): 6.25 million. Annual
borax not yet exploited).
growth rate: 2.6%. Ethnic groups: Aymara
Agriculture (19.6% of GDP): Products-
25%, Quechua 30%, European 5%-15%,
potatoes, corn, sugarcane, rice, wheat, coffee,
mixed 25%-30%. Religion: Roman Catholic
beef, barley, and quinoa. Arable land-27%.
95%. Languages: Spanish (official), Aymara,
Industry: Types-manufacturing (9.8% of
Quechua. Education: Years compulsory-
GDP); mining (12.6% of GDP); also textiles,
ages 7-14. Attendance (1982)-82%.
food processing, chemicals, plastics, minerals
Literacy-75%. Health: Infant mortality
smelting and petroleum refining.
rate-123/1,000. Life expectancy-49 yrs.
Trade (1985): Exports-$663 million:
Work force (1.7 million): Agriculture-47%.
natural gas, tin, zinc, coffee, silver, tungsten.
Industry and commerce-19%. Services-23%.
Major markets-Latin American Integration
Government-11%.
Association (ALADI), US, European Com-
munity. Imports-$552 million: machinery
and transportation equipment, consumer
Government
products, construction and mining equipment.
Type: Republic. Independence: August 6,
Major suppliers-ALADI, US, Japan, Brazil.
1825. Constitution: February 2, 1967.
Official exchange rate (May 1986):
Branches: Executive-president and
1,960,000 pesos=US$1.
Cabinet. Legislative-bicameral Congress.
Fiscal year: Calendar year.
Judicial-five levels of jurisdiction, headed by
US economic aid (1985): $51 million.
Supreme Court.
Subdivisions: Nine departments.
Membership in International
Political parties: Nationalist Revolu-
Organizations
tionary Movement (MNR), Nationalist
Democratic Action (ADN), Movement of the
UN, Organization of American States (OAS),
Revolutionary Left (MIR), Nationalist Revolu-
Andean Pact, INTELSAT, Nonaligned Move-
tionary Movement of the Left (MNRI). Suf-
ment, International Parliamentary Union,
frage: Universal adult.
ALADI.
Central government budget:
Expenditures-26% of 1984 GDP.
280
BOLIVIA
68
60
BRAZIL
old
Rio Abuna
BOLIVIA
Guajare-Mirim
International boundary
RIO Madre de Dios RIO Bent
Rio Mamore
+
National capital
Railroad
Cobija
Road
+
International airport
12
O
50
100
150 Miles
O
50 100 150 Kilometers
Toual old
PERU
Guapora
Rio Mamore
Rio Paragua
BRAZIL
Trinidad
Santa Ana
LAGO
TITICACA
Puno
Pio Grande
Rio San Miguel
LA PAZ
C
+
Guaqui
Río Chapare
Puerto Villaroel
Cochabamba
Ichtlo
Montero
saguadero
Charaña
Santa Cruz
+
Tacna
Oruro
Mizque
Arica
Rio Lauca
LAGO
Puerto
DE
SUCRE
Suárez
POOPÓ
(Legal
capital only)
Potosi
20
20 OCEAN
Liquique
Uyuni
Villazon
Río Pilaya
Villa Montes
PARAGUAY
Tarija
PACIFIC
CHILE
Rig
La
Quisca
Pellco
ARGENTINA
Rio Parageap
68
BOUNDARY REPRESENTATION is
Antol gasts
NOT NECESSARILY AUTHORITATIVE
60
281
BOLIVIA
GEOGRAPHY
PEOPLE
Recently, an important body of baroque
music of the period has been found.
Landlocked Bolivia is bounded by Brazil,
Bolivia's ethnic distribution is estimated
Bolivian artists of stature in the 20th
Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, and Peru.
to be 55% Indian, 5%-15% European-
century include Guzman de Rojas, Arturo
La Paz is the administrative capital;
primarily Spanish, and 25%-30% mixed
Borda, and Maria Luisa Pacheco. Marina
Sucre is the constitutional and judicial
Indian and Spanish (mestizo). Among the
Nunez del Prado is an internationally
capital.
limited number of foreign residents are
known sculptor.
Crossing the country from the north-
about 700 Japanese and Okinawan fam-
Bolivia has a rich folklore-its popu-
ilies, who emigrated to Bolivia after
lar music is varied and distinctive of the
west to the southeast, a high plateau
(altiplano) parallels and splits the Andes
World War II and settled in the Santa
various regions. The Devil Dances at the
into two mountain chains (cordilleras)
Cruz area, plus a small but prosperous
"Carnival of Oruro" are recognized as
along its eastern and western sides. The
Mennonite community in the same
one of the great folkloric events in South
western mountain chain forms a
region.
America. The native carnival at
5,000-meter (16,500-ft.) high frontier
Bolivia is the least developed country
Tarabuco is also acquiring increasing
with Chile. The altiplano, about 800 kilo-
in South America. About two-thirds of
importance.
meters (500 mi.) long and 130 kilometers
its people, many of whom are subsist-
(80 mi.) wide, has an average altitude of
ence farmers, live in poverty. Population
3,650 meters (12,000 ft.) above sea level.
density ranges from less than one person
HISTORY AND
This area cradles Lake Titicaca at 3,800
per square kilometer in the southeastern
POLITICAL CONDITIONS
meters (12,500 ft.), the world's highest
plains to about 10 per square kilometer
navigable lake, and the lithium-rich
(25 per sq. mi.) in the central highlands.
Between 100 B.C. and 900 A.D. Aymara
Uyuni and Copipasa salt flats.
Bolivia's high mortality rate prevents
Indians, living at the southern end of
The high altitude gives the plateau a
the annual population growth rate from
Lake Titicaca, produced a highly
clear atmosphere and cool climate. The
exceeding 2.7%.
advanced culture now known from the
average temperature is 10°C (50°F).
Bolivia's capital, La Paz, has the
ruins at Tiachuanacu. In about 1450, the
Cereals are the altiplano's major
highest elevation of any capital city in
Quechua-speaking Incas added the area
agricultural products. Principal livestock
the world at 3,600 meters (11,800 ft.).
of modern highland Bolivia to their effi-
are sheep, alpacas, llamas, and vicunas.
The fastest growing major city is Santa
cient and rapidly expanding empire.
Mineral deposits, the backbone of
Cruz, the commerical and industrial hub
They controlled the area until the
of the eastern lowlands.
Spanish conquest in 1525.
Bolivia's economy, are found here, as
Almost 95% of Bolivians are Roman
During most of the Spanish colonial
well as most of the country's inhabit-
Catholic, but most Indians interweave
period, this territory (called "Upper
ants, main cities, and industrial centers.
In the Departments of La Paz and
pre-Columbian and Christian symbols in
Peru" or "Charcas") was ruled from the
their religious practices. Fewer than half
Viceroyalty of Peru, and the principal
Cochabamba, the yungas (hills and
of the people speak Spanish as their first
cities were Chuquisaco (now Sucre) and
valleys varying in altitude from 490 to
language. The literacy rate is low in the
Potosi. Bolivian silver mines produced
3,130 meters-1,600-9,000 ft.) and
rural areas.
much of the Spanish Empire's wealth,
valleys separate the high plateau from
and Potosi, site of the famed "mountain
the lowland plains. The temperature
of silver," was for many years the
averages about 21°C (70°F), and the
Cultural Achievements
largest city in the Western Hemisphere.
atmosphere is humid. Further south, in
Three periods of cultural development
As Spanish royal authority weakened
the Departments of Chuquisaca, Tarija,
have taken place in the territory of
during the Napoleonic wars, sentiment
and western Santa Cruz, the yungas flat-
Bolivia-the pre-Columbian, colonial, and
against colonial rule grew. Independence
ten out into more open and cooler
valleys that descend gradually toward
republican. From the pre-Columbian
was proclaimed in 1809, but 16 years of
the Chaco plains in the southeast.
period, important archeological ruins,
struggle followed before the establish-
The lowland plain (llano) region of
gold and silver ornaments, and ceramics
ment of the Republic, named for Simon
Bolivia covers the Departments of Beni,
and weavings remain of the great
Bolivar, on August 6, 1825.
Pando, and Santa Cruz. This is the most
Aymara civilization at Tiahuanacu. The
Independence did not bring stability.
later Inca conquest of the highlands of
For nearly 60 years, coups and short-
highly developed agricultural region in
what is now Bolivia left important ruins
lived constitutions dominated Bolivian
Bolivia. In the northeastern area, these
at Samaipata and Incallajta. The
politics. Preoccupied with remaining in
plains are part of the Amazon River
Quechua (or Inca) culture originated a
office, few presidents were able to rule
basin, containing tropical forests and
beautiful style in ceramics and weavings
effectively. Bolivia's weakness was
dense vegetation interspersed with open
savannas. Further south, the plains form
that has been preserved and developed
demonstrated during the War of the
part of the La Plata River basin and con-
to the present time.
Pacific (1879-84) when it lost its
stitute a northward extension of the
The Spaniards brought their tradi-
seacoast and the adjoining rich nitrate
tion of religious art which, through the
fields to Chile.
Argentine pampas. This sparsely popu-
hands of local Indian or mestizo builders
An increase in the world price of
lated part of Bolivia is rapidly develop-
and artisans, has left a rich and distinc-
ing. Large-scale cotton and sugarcane
tive heritage of architecture, painting,
farming and cattle raising predominate,
but interest in industrial development is
and sculpture. The colonial period pro-
increasing. Bolivia's major deposits of
duced not only the paintings of Perez de
petroleum, natural gas, and iron ore are
Holguin, Flores, Bitti, and others, but
also the works of skilled, unknown stone-
located in this region.
cutters, goldsmiths, and silversmiths.
282
BOLIVIA
silver brought Bolivia a measure of pros-
trations to preserve social order, the
Democratic Party agreed to participate
armed forces, the MNR, and other politi-
with these three in forming a govern-
perity and political stability in the late
1800s. During the early part of the 20th
cal groups collaborated in its downfall
ment, but in January 1983 six MIR min-
and installed Col. (later Gen.) Hugo
isters resigned in a policy dispute. The
century, tin replaced silver as the coun-
try's most important source of wealth.
Banzer Suarez as president.
MIR, led by Siles' coalition partner and
Political parties that reflected the inter-
Banzer ruled with the active support
Vice President Jaime Paz Zamora,
ests of the mine owners ruled until the
of the MNR and another political party
rejoined the government in late 1983.
from August 1971 to November 1974.
Increasing labor unrest and social
1930s with few outbreaks of violence.
Then, impatient with internal schisms in
tension, provoked by Siles' gross eco-
The lot of the Indians, who consti-
the governing coalition, he replaced the
nomic mismanagement and feckless lead-
tuted most of the population, remained
deplorable. Forced to work under primi-
civilian politicans with members of the
ership, forced Siles to agree to call
tive conditions in the mines and in nearly
armed forces and suspended political and
national elections for mid-1985 and relin-
feudal status on large estates, they were
labor union activities.
quish power on August 6, 1985, 1 year
denied access to education, economic op-
Although the economy grew impres-
before the expiration of his constitu-
portunity, or political participation.
sively during Banzer's 7-year presidency,
tional term. A total of 1,680,370 votes
demands for greater political and labor
was cast in the July 14, 1985 national
Bolivia's defeat by Paraguay in the
and municipal elections, which were
Chaco War (1932-1935) is generally con-
freedoms undercut his support. His deci-
sidered a watershed in the country's
sion to call elections in 1978 plunged
characterized by administrative irregu-
history. Great loss of life and territory
Bolivia into yet another perio I of
larities and deficiencies but were not
discredited the traditional ruling classes,
turmoil.
notoriously fraudulent. The Nationalist
General elections in 1978, 1979, and
Democratic Action (ADN) party of Gen.
while service in the army produced stir-
rings of political awareness among the
1980 were marked by varying degrees of
Banzer won a narrow plurality of the
Indians. From the end of the Chaco War
fraud and the failure of any candidate to
popular vote (32.8%), followed by 30.4%
until the 1952 revolution, the emergence
win a clear-cut majority. Meanwhile,
for Victor Paz Estenssoro's MNR, and
coups, countercoups, and caretaker
10.2% for former MIR Vice President
of contending ideologies and the
governments characterized political life.
Jaime Paz Zamora. Despite the ADN
demands of new groups convulsed
Bolivian politics.
Former MNR President Hernan
plurality of some 37,000 votes-because
The National Revolutionary Move-
Siles Zuazo and his left-of-center political
of the preference given to rural votes
ment (MNR) emerged from this ferment
coalition received a plurality of the votes
over urban votes in the apportionment of
as Bolivia's most broadly based party.
in the 1980 election, generally con-
seats in Congress-the MNR won more
Denied its victory in the 1951 presiden-
sidered the most honest of the three poll-
legislative seats than the ADN. In the
tial elections, the MNR plotted a revolt.
ings in 1978, 1979, and 1980. The mili-
congressional run-off, the MIR cast its
tary intervened, however, to prevent
lot with the MNR, resulting in the elec-
On April 11, 1952, the army sur-
rendered after 3 days' fighting in La
Siles from assuming the presidency. On
tion of the 77-year-old Paz Estenssoro to
July 17, 1980, Army Gen. Luis Garcia
a fourth term in office.
Paz, and Bolivia's social revolution
began. Under the leadership of Presi-
Meza Tejada carried out one of the most
dent Victor Paz Estenssoro and Hernan
ruthless and violent of Bolivia's many
coups. He declared the election results
GOVERNMENT
Siles Zuazo, the MNR introduced univer-
sal adult suffrage, carried out a sweep-
invalid, suspended Congress, prohibited
ing land reform, promoted rural educa-
political party activity, and curtailed the
The constitution promulgated in
tion, and nationalized the three great tin
functioning of labor unions. His military
February 1967 provides for traditional
government quickly became notorious
executive, legislative, and judicial
companies that for many years had
strongly influenced Bolivia's political and
for human rights abuses and involve-
powers. The traditionally strong execu-
ment in narcotics trafficking, rampant
tive, however, tends to overshadow the
economic life.
Twelve years of tumultuous rule
administrative corruption, and poor eco-
Congress, whose role is generally limited
divided the MNR internally and reduced
nomic management.
to debating and approving legislation ini-
its public support. A military junta, led
A military rebellion forced Garcia
tiated by the executive. The judiciary
by Gen. Alfredo Ovando Candia and the
Meza from office in August 1981. During
consists of the Supreme Court and
Vice President, Rene Barrientos Ortuno,
the ensuing 14 months, three other gov-
departmental and lower courts. Bolivia's
ernments of the armed forces tried to
nine departments have limited auton-
overthrew President Paz in November
1964 at the beginning of his third presi-
cope with Bolivia's expanding political
omy, although departmental officials
dential term. The junta continued the
and economic problems, and all failed.
have been appointed by the central
MNR's basic policies, however. In 1966,
Increasing social unrest forced the mili-
government for many years.
Gen. Barrientos campaigned for the
tary to convoke the Congress elected in
As a result of the July 14, 1985 elec-
1980 and allow it to choose a new chief
tions, Bolivian cities and towns are now
presidency and won the election. During
the latter's administration, Che Guevara,
executive. On October 10, 1982, 22 years
governed by elected mayors and councils
the famous guerrilla leader, was killed in
after his first term of office expired and
for the first time since 1951.
eastern Bolivia while attempting unsuc-
26 months after his second term should
cessfully to foment a rebellion.
have-begun, Hernan Siles Zuazo was
Principal Government Officials
Barrientos' death in a 1969 heli-
inaugurated president.
Siles' electoral coalition (the Demo-
President-Victor Paz Estenssoro
copter accident left a vacuum in Bolivian
politics. Three varied governments
cratic and Popular Unity-UDP) consisted
Vice President-Julio Garrett Aillon
lasted a total of 27 months. Alarmed by
of his own National Revolutionary Move-
The president and vice president were
the failure of the last of these adminis-
ment of the Left (MNRI) and two smaller
elected in the July 14, 1985 elections.
parties-the Movement of the Revolu-
tionary Left (MIR) and the Communist
UPDATE NOTE: Leadership changes may have
Party of Bolivia (PCB). The Christian
occurred here since the date of this entry. Check
the directory of officials beginning on pa
1 for
283
most recent information.
BOLIVIA
The following were sworn into President
Paz's second Cabinet on January 22, 1986.
Ministers
*
Foreign Affairs and Worship-Guillermo
Bedregal Gutierrez
Interior, Migration and Justice-
Fernando Barthelemy Martinez
Defense-Fernando Valle Quevedo
Finance-Juan L. Cariaga Osorio
Planning and Coordination-Gonzalo
Sanchez De Lozada Sanchez
Bustamante
Industry, Commerce and Tourism-
Roberto Gisbert Bermudez
Transportation and Communications-
Andres Petricevic
Social Services and Public Health-
Carlos Perez Guzman
Work and Labor Development-Walter
Rios Gamboa
Mines and Metallurgy-Jaime Villalobos
Sanjines
Peasant Affairs and Agriculture-Edil
Sandoval Moron
Energy and Hydrocarbons-Carlos
Morales Landivar
Urban Affairs and Housing-Juan
Franklin Anaya Vasquez
Aeronautics-Gen. Antonio Tovar
Pierola
Secretary General of the Presidency-
Juan Carlos Duran Saucedo
Integration-Fernando Caceres Dias
Information-Herman Antelo Laughlin
Ambassador to the Organization of
American States (OAS)-Armando
Antelo Badani
Ambassador to the United Nations-
Jorge Gumucio Granier
Ambassador to the United States-
Fernando Illanes De La Riva
Bolivia maintains an embassy in the
United States at 3014 Massachusetts
Avenue, NW., Washington D.C. 20008
(tel. 202-483-4410), and consulates in
San Francisco, Houston, Los Angeles,
Chicago, Miami, New York, and New
Orleans.
ECONOMY
Bolivia is among the poorest countries in
Latin America; its per capita gross
national product is the lowest in South
America. From 1972 until 1976, how-
ever, it achieved impressive growth in
View of El Prado, one of the main avenues in La Paz.
gross domestic product (GDP)-6%-7%
per year-due largely to an influx of
development credits from multilateral
and bilateral donors, as well as from
private foreign banks.
UPDATE NOTE: Leadership changes may have
occurred here since the date of this entry. Check
the directory of officials beginning on page 1 for
most recent information.
284
BOLIVIA
The country's foreign exchange
External Financing
earnings from all mineral exports
Bolivia's economy is constrained by a
dropped from $419.4 million in 1982 to
$347.3 million in 1983 and $263.7 million
large foreign debt, estimated at $3.7 bil-
lion at the end of 1985. In May 1984, the
in 1985. Natural gas sales to Argentina
democratically elected government of
totaled $375.7 million in 1984 and $372.6
Hernan Siles announced a moratorium
million in 1985, a slight drop from
$381.6 million, the highest ever, in 1982.
on payments of its $850 million debt to
the international banks. Nonetheless,
In late April 1986, the Governments of
debt service payments represented about
Bolivia and Argentina reached agree-
ment on the terms of gas sales to the lat-
56.9% of export earnings in 1985.
ter country for the next 6 months. The
volume will remain the same, but Bolivia
Trade with the United States
agreed to a price reduction of some 15%,
Bolivia recently renegotiated its official
which will reduce annual revenue to
debt through Paris Club negotiations
$347 million. About 33% of the value will
and is attempting to reschedule commer-
be available to Bolivia in cash (down
cial debt. The Paz government has made
from 50%), and the balance in counter
impressive gains in stabilizing the
trade. Bolivià has not exported
exchange rate, and the government is
petroleum (crude oil) since 1979, and un-
also in compliance with the terms of an
til 1983 only small quantities of gasoline
International Monetary Fund agreement.
were exported.
The steady decline of Bolivia's
petroleum and minerals exports has been
DEFENSE
the major factor in the country's ever-
growing current account and balance-of-
Bolivia's armed forces have played a
payments deficit. Daily petroleum pro-
major and often controversial role in the
Colorful Indian open-air markets sell
duction declined to an average of 19,856
country's history. Defeated in the 1952
fresh produce and authentic handicrafts.
barrels per day (b/d) in 1985 compared to
revolution, the army was at first
a peak production of 45,000 b/d in 1974.
drastically reduced in size and influence.
Bolivia's liquids production is composed
Most- of Bolivia's foreign exchange
of 60% condensates and 40% crude oil.
Later, however, the MNR rebuilt the
earnings come from mineral exports and
armed forces to counter the power of
The longstanding gas pipeline proposal
natural gas sales to Argentina. Bolivia
unruly militia units. This strategy back-
for future natural gas sales to Brazil
has experienced an economic crisis since
fired in 1964 when the military carried
could increase future export earnings,
1981; the GDP dropped nearly 10% in
out a coup against the MNR. For most of
but lack of interest on both sides has
1982. In 1985, President Paz undertook
the next 18 years, Bolivia's presidents
stalled the development of the project.
an impressive economic stabilization pro-
were military leaders. One of the last,
Future exploitation of Bolivia's large
gram designed to encourage internal
Gen. Luis Garcia Meza Tejada, held
salt flats of the altiplano could also
development and foreign investment.
power for just over a year from
increase export earnings.
1980-1982. His alleged involvement in
narcotics trafficking and serious human
Minerals and Hydrocarbons
Agriculture
rights abuses committed during his
Minerals and hydrocarbons lead Bolivia's
Bolivia's agricultural performance has
regime did much to discredit military
exports, with natural gas accounting for
rule. The armed forces adhered strictly
improved after the serious setbacks
47.5% of the country's total exports. Tin
to their constitutional role during the
originating from poor weather condi-
exports represented 68% of the value of
terms of elected President Hernan Siles
tions in 1982 and 1983. Annual produc-
the nation's total mineral exports in
Zuazo (1982-1985), and supported fully
tion of sugar, potatoes, corn, and rice
1984. In the last 4 years, tin production
the constitutional transition to another
has returned to historically normal
has dropped from annual levels of 30,000
elected president, Dr. Paz Estenssoro.
levels. The country remains, however, a
metric tons (mt) of metallic content in
Despite the country's occasionally uncer-
major importer of wheat.
1982 to 20,276 mt in 1984, and 16,270
Agriculture, including forestry and
tain political climate, Bolivia's military in
mt in 1985. Estimates of 1986 produc-
recent years has contributed responsibly
fishing, is the most important sector of
tion are in the 10,000 mt range.
to strengthening the country's still
the economy in terms of employment
COMIBOL, the state-owned mining cor-
(47%) and has enormous potential for
fragile democracy.
poration, is the largest mineral producer
Estimates of Bolivian armed forces
future growth. Domestic wheat produc-
in the country. ENAF, the state
tion is low, leading to annual imports of
troop strength are army 20,000, air
smelting corporation, has a tin-smelting
force 4,000, and navy, which patrols
about 300,000 mt. The year 1984 was
capacity of 30,000 mt per year, although
Lake Titicaca and various rivers, 2,500.
one of recovery, recording a growth of
its 10,000 mt low-grade smelter has been
In addition to its mission of external
18.7% in agricultural output. This recov-
hardly used since its firing in 1982. The
defense and internal security, the mili-
ery featured sizable gains in production
collapse of the international tin market
tary also participates in civic action
in October 1985 was a major blow to
of rice, potatoes, and corn. Growth in
1985 amounted to 3.1%. Exports in
Bolivia's economy. Estimates show that
Bolivian agricultural products totaled
low world tin prices could result in a $60
$34.6 million in 1985.
million loss in foreign exchange earnings
for 1986.
285
LIVIA
and provides transportation
abuses, and interruption of the demo-
to constitutional democracy. The United
Bolivia is a signatory of the
cratic process. The restoration of con-
States has a longstanding aid relation-
increasi
American Treaty of Reciprocal
stitutional democracy in 1982 alleviated
ship with Bolivia. Between 1946 and
has bee
Stance (Rio Treaty), an agreement
some of these concerns and greatly
1980, economic assistance totaled more
for the
the American states for mutual
improved Bolivia's diplomatic standing.
than $800 million, and grants made up
ruption
against aggression.
Since 1970, Bolivia has expanded its
almost half this sum.
accomp
links with the Soviet Union, various East
trade h
A major issue in bilateral relations is
European nations, and the People's
that nearly 50% of the raw materials
not onl)
EIGN RELATIONS
Republic of China. These include diplo-
utilized in producing the cocaine con-
tional I
matic relations, trade, cultural
sumed in the United States originates in
via traditionally has maintained nor-
exchanges, and limited economic
Bolivia. For generations the traditional
Princip
diplomatics relations with all hemi-
assistance.
practice of chewing coca leaves served to
Theric states except Chile. Relations
alleviate the rigors of life on the
Ambas
Chile, strained since Bolivia's
altiplano, but during the past decades an
Deputy
theat in the War of the Pacific (1879-83)
U.S.-BOLIVIAN RELATIONS
Big
its loss of the coastal province of
Defens
Pacama, were severed from 1962 to
The normally friendly relations between
Comma
in a dispute over the use of the
the United States and Bolivia were inter-
Ro
of the Lauca River. These were
rupted during the Garcia Meza regime.
Direct
remed in 1975 and broken again in
Following the unusually violent and
Politic
78 over the inability of both countries
repressive coup of July 17, 1980, the
Econo
reach an agreement that might have
United States withdrew its ambassador,
Consu
manted Bolivia a sovereign access to the
cut off security assistance and arms
Public
In the 1960s, relations with Cuba
sales, and suspended a substantial por-
H
There broken following Castro's rise to
tion of economic assistance.
Consu
Travel Notes
wer. The Siles government
In November 1981, after Garcia
M
plomatic relations in 1983.
Meza's replacement by a more moderate
Consult
During the Garcia Meza regime,
Customs: With regular passports, a 90-day
military leader, the U.S. Ambassador
St
tourist visa can be obtained at the airport.
Polivia's relations with many countries,
returned to La Paz. Resumption of U.S.
Restrictions on entry and exit by car are
reluding the United States, were
economic and security assistance pro-
I
numerous, and procedures for acquiring the
derained. Principal concerns focused on
grams took place after Bolivia's return
necessary documentation are time consuming.
Banc
the narcotics problem, human rights
of Ca
Climate and clothing: Temperatures in
591-
La Paz range from cool to cold; a coat or
are 1
sweater is useful year round. The rainy
season lasts from December to March. Santa
342;
Cruz is often hot and humid.
(25
Health: To adjust to the altitude, rest for the
first 3 days, eat lightly, and avoid alcohol and
cigarettes for the first week. Drink plenty of
UF
liquids in La Paz, where humidity is low.
have
Sanitation is poor. Do not eat unwashed fruit
Che
and vegetables or undercooked meats and
Eml
fish. Tapwater is not potable. Yellow fever
See
inoculation is recommended.
Telecommunications: Telephone service
within Bolivia is steadily improving, and
direct-dialing between most major cities and
between the US and some major cities is
possible. Telegraph service is also available.
Bolivia is 1 hour ahead of eastern standard
time.
Transportation: Flights from the US to
La Paz take 10-15 hrs. Overland travel from
neighboring countries is possible but com-
plicated. Taxis in La Paz are plentiful and
relatively inexpensive but must be hailed from
the street. Taxis usually must be shared.
San Francisco Church, used by many people as a reference point in the downtown area of La Paz.
286
BOLIVIA
increasing percentage of coca cultivation
has been diverted to the illegal market
Further Information
for the elaboration of cocaine. The cor-
ruption and disregard for law that
These titles are provided as a general indica-
Klein, Herbert S. Parties and Political
accompanied the growth of the illegal
tion of the material published on this country.
Change in Bolivia, 1880-1952. Cambridge:
trade have made narcotics trafficking
The Department of State does not endorse
Cambridge University Press, 1969.
not only a major domestic but interna-
unofficial publications.
Malloy, James M., and Richard S. Thorn, eds.
tional problem for Bolivia.
Alexander, Robert J. Bolivia: Past, Present
Beyond the Revolution: Bolivia Since 1952.
and Future of Its Politics. New York:
Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press,
Praeger, 1982.
1971.
Principal U.S. Officials
Arnade, Charles W. The Emergence of the
Bolivia: The Sad and Corrupt End of
Republic of Bolivia. Gainsville: University
the Revolution. Hanover: Univer-
Ambassador-Edward M. Rowell
of Florida, 1957.
sities Field Staff International, Inc., 1982.
Deputy Chief of Mission-Jeffrey R.
Dunkerly, James. Bolivia, Coup Etat. Lon-
Available from the Superintendent of
Biggs
don: Latin American Bureau, 1980.
Documents, US Government Printing Office,
Defense Attache-Col. John Stell
Fifer, J. Valerie. Bolivia: Land, Location and
Washington, DC 20402:
Commander, U.S. Military Group-Col.
Politics Since 1825. Cambridge: Cambridge
Robert Brown
University Press, 1972.
American University. Area Handbook for
Bolivia. 1974.
Director, AID Mission-David Cohen
Klein, Herbert S. Bolivia: The Evolution of a
U.S. Department of State. Bolivia Post
Political Counselor-William Lofstrom
Multiethnic Society. New York: Oxford
Report. February 1986.
University Press, 1982.
Economic Counselor-Ralph Buck
Consul General-Gerald Lueders
Public Affairs Officer, USIS-Myron
Hoffmann
Consular Agent Santa Cruz-Marilyn
McKenney
Consular Agent Cochabamba-William
Scarborough
The U.S. Embassy is located in the
Banco Popular del Peru building, corner
of Calles Mercado y Colon, La Paz (tel.
591-2-350251). U.S. consular agencies
are located in Santa Cruz (Calle Bolivar
342; tel. 591-3-330725) and Cochabamba
(25 de Mayo 365; tel. 591-4-225896).
*
UPDATE NOTE: Some personnel listed above may
have been shifted since the date of this entry.
Check personnel listings under the heading, U.S.
Embassies, Consulates, and Foreign Service Posts.
See CONTENTS for page number.
287
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BUREAU OF INTER-AMERICAN AFFAIRS
DEPARTMENT OF STATE
WASHINGTON, D.C.
FAX NUMBER (202) 647-4551
DATE: 5/1/90
FROM: H. LANE
ARA/AND
TO:
Stephani Blessey
White House
456-6218
Number of Pages:
(Including cover sheet) 2
REMARKS: Bio
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2024566218:# 2
Jaime PAZ Zamora
BOLIVIA
(Phonetic: pahs)
President (since 6 August 1989)
Jaime Paz Zamora is a charismatic and
pragmatic individual who has spent much of his
career in opposition to the government. At 50, he
has made the transition from radical student leader
to elected politician and claims to speak for the
"new majority" in Bolivia-he portrays himself as
a socially minded, center-left alternative to the
older generation of leaders who have dominated
political life in the country for decades. Paz, who
placed third with 20 percent of the popular vote in
the May presidential election, was catapulted to the
executive office by a last-minute coalition
agreement with conservative leader and former
President Hugo Banzer. In his recent public
statements, he has vowed to support issues of interest to the United States, such as economic
recovery and narcotics control. He has staffed his Cabinet with several business and finance
experts, and he has said that he will not significantly depart from the free-market economic
model instituted by his predecessor.
Paz was born on 5 April 1939. He has a philosophy degree from a Catholic seminary in
Argentina and degrees in political science and international relations from the Catholic
University of Louvain (Belgium). He has taught international relations at the University of
San Andrés in La Paz. In 1970, when his younger brother joined a guerrilla group and was
killed by the Army, Paz led an organization of independent Marxists into a newly formed
student front that became the forerunner of the MIR. A militant opponent of the Hugo
Banzer regime (1971-78), he remained in hiding or exile for the duration of the regime and
assisted Hernán Siles in creating the center-left Democratic and Popular Unity (UDP)
coalition. Paz was elected Vice President in June 1980, but a military coup prevented him
from taking office. He was in exile in Panama from 1980 until 1982, when a political
amnesty permitted him to return to Bolivia. He was reconfirmed as Vice President by
Congress in October 1982. During his unsuccessful bid for the presidency in 1985, he
obtained 10 percent of the vote.
Paz is scarred from severe burns suffered in an airplane crash in 1979 that killed
several other MIR members (he received medical treatment in Washington). He enjoys
outdoor activities; reading poetry, novels, and essays; and playing the guitar. He speaks
French. Separated from his wife (who is chief of international relations for the MIR), he has
two teenage sons.
17 August 1989
BOLIVIA
111
Bolivia lies wholly in the tropical zone and experiences every tempera-
ture, from the heat of its equatorial low lands to the Andes' cold. To focus,
therefore, on Bolivia's diverse land it is best to start with the inland sea
of Lake Titicaca (12,600 feet) and work east. The nation is developing eco-
nomically and socially in that direction, much as the United States pushed
its frontier westward.
Lake Titicaca is a major western boundary between Bolivia and Peru.
Stretching some 3,500 square miles, this deep (700 feet in places), clear
body of water sprouts a totora reed that greatly influences life around the
lake. The Aymaras fashion these reeds together into exceptionally strong
gondola-like boats to sail on this highest navigable lake in the world. These
thick reeds also become floating and inhabited islands. The pliable but du-
rable material breaks loose from lake beds and joins with other matter
gradually to form living space for autochthonous tribes. This reed is also
used for building simple furniture, for feeding livestock, and for making
other useful products.
Lake Titicaca rests on the "altiplano" (high plateau), shaped by the
Andes mountain range that hunches along the west coast of South Ameri-
ca and slices southeastward through Bolivia. This two-pronged mountain
range has formed between its peaks a rambling plain about 85 miles wide
and 520 miles long that cuts through southeast Peru and southwest Boliv-
ia. About 40,000 square miles of this bleak, cold, treeless, and windswept
plateau lies in Bolivia. However hostile this 30 percent of the nation's land
is, it supports 52 percent of the population and houses the major cities.
The otherwise impoverished altiplano and its mountain rims are streaked
BOLIVIA
with vast deposits of tin, copper, silver, tungsten, lead, zinc, and other min-
erals.
For centuries, the Aymaras have clung to this hostile land and have
generally resisted efforts to be resettled on the more fertile soil that
Highest Land of the Andes
abounds elsewhere in the country. Their diet consists mostly of a potato-
like tuber called "oca" and the nutritious "quinoa" cereal. They also grow
By
some nutritious cereals, and corn, which, when fermented, make an intoxi-
PETER MCFARREN
cating brew called "chicha."
The animal life on the altiplano includes the wool-bearing sheep, llama,
alpaca, and vicuna, along with the fur-bearing chinchilla and red fox. The
Peter McFarren, a native of Bolivia and resident of La Paz, has also lived
fabled vicuna, a rare and very delicate animal, still roams the high regions
in Cochabamba, Sucre, and the United States. He is a correspondent for
of the altiplano, but articles made from its scarce fleece are hard to find
the Associated Press in La Paz and a photographer. His photos and articles
because the government strictly prohibits its sale. You can, however, ob-
have appeared in The New York Times, Newsweek, and the Wall Street
tain rugs, ponchos, and a number of other articles made from llama and
alpaca wool.
Journal.
After two years' study, a big drilling campaign was started on the High
Bolivia is a country of superlatives. Landlocked in the western part of
Plateau searching for oil. Researchers have already found natural gas and
the continent, it sprawls over 424,165 square miles and borders Peru on
it is now being supplied to Argentina.
the northwest, Brazil on the north and east, Paraguay on the southeast,
At the edge of this altiplano, La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, is encased
Argentina on the south, and both Peru and Chile on the west. It has the
in a basin at an altitude of about 11,900 feet. The discomfort of the thin
highest navigable lake in the world, the highest airport, the highest golf
air is more than repaid by the majestic beauty of the snow-capped moun-
course, the highest ski run, the highest capital, one of the newest and wild-
tains that encircle the city. Four of these peaks reach above 20,000 feet.
est frontiers, one of the oldest ruins, and what is said to be the highest
Spotted along the high mountain shelf southeast of La Paz are several
concentration of cosmic rays on earth. Bolivia is also a nation of contrasts,
cities whose existence can only be justified by mineral wealth. Oruro is
which led a French explorer-scientist to call it the "microcosm of our plan-
the first city along this high crest, standing at an altitude of 12,200 feet,
et." It has every type of geologically classified land, many types of people,
with a population of 95,000, most of whom are employed in mining. Fur-
flora, fauna, minerals, and tropical products.
ther south is Potosí, which retains its colonial air and art treasures from
The country's population, 6.7 million, is indigenous with a relatively
an age when the nearby Cerro Rico (Rich Hill) Mountain was one of the
small admixture of Spanish. It is probably the best example of the proud
first great-discoveries of the Spanish conquerors and which pumped the
heritage of a noble race of long-suffering, self-sacrificing people who live
equivalent of some 2 billion dollars into the Spanish treasury. The city
among the remnants of ancient civilization.
(population 113,000) is at 13,340 feet.
110
112
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
113
These and smaller cities are linked by a railroad from La Paz to Buenos
Aires, routed along a fairly level plateau that stretches between the two
The People
capitals. Other rail lines at Oruro connect La Paz with Arica, Chile, and
Cochabamba, Bolivia's third largest city with 317,000 people. Oruro is the
Approximately 50 percent of the Bolivian people are descendants of the
hub of these rail lines. There are also rail connections with São Paulo via
Aymara and Quechua pre-Columbian indigenous cultures. Twenty per-
Villazón from Santa Cruz.
cent of the population is mestizo and 25 percent white. Socially, the popu-
From this high plane, the land spills off into lush semitropical valleys
lation is in ferment. The once-stilted social structure of the nation was de-
to the north and east. These valleys, called "yungas," are drained by the
stroyed by the 1952 social revolution that took political control from a
Beni River system, which then empties into the Amazon River. This land
small white oligarchy and passed it to the indigenous majority, under
of present beauty and future development begins about three hours out
white and mestizo middle-class leadership. Aymara and Quechua people
of La Paz. The mean annual temperature of this healthy area is between
are commonly referred to as "cholos," a somewhat demeaning term ap-
plied to these farmers or mine workers. They are also referred to as "cam-
60.8 and 64.6 degrees, while the rainfall is between 27 and 31 inches yearly.
pesinos"-peasants-or "mineros"-miners.
The soil of the altiplano washes into the basins of this region, where
This population pattern, like many other things in Bolivia, is changing.
citrus fruits, cattle, and other products are raised, many of them going
Anthropologists have noted that the unique Bolivian ethnic and social
to La Paz. Extensive road-building and river-clearing programs are linking
composition of the Aymaras and Quechuas now discard some traditional
this region with the rest of the nation. Altiplano Indians and others who
ways, adopt western dress, extend their diet and consumption habits, and
formerly lived along the routes of these roads have to some extent already
have become more like the sophisticated minority.
been resettled by colonization projects that are introducing many natives
to the 20th century. A new route has been constructed to link the High
A Short History
Plateau consumer areas and the productive plain of Beni, which will en-
sure the incorporation of this jungle area into the economic life of the
Historians usually raise the curtain on Bolivia's history at Tiahuanaco
about A.D. 600, although dissenting conclusions date back as far as 7,000
country.
B.C. The Aymara Indians had developed a lesser civilization early at this lo-
Cochabamba, Sucre, Tarija, and Caranavi are the major population cen-
cation between La Paz and the southern end of Lake Titicaca, but the sec-
ters among these fertile valleys. As the center of a colonization area, Car-
ond one was influenced by the Nazca and Chimu civilizations of Peru,
anavi, about 150 miles north of La Paz, has grown from four huts to about
and from these mixtures a truly great civilization emerged. It was charac-
10,000 people. Cochabamba, with an average temperature of 64.6 degrees
terized by great buildings, massive monuments, ornate textiles, skillful
and situated at 8,570 feet, and eternal sunshine, is described as the best
pottery, and attractive metalwork.
living area in Bolivia. Sucre (population 86,000), still the nation's legal
This flowering civilization began to wither for some unknown reason.
capital, has retained much of its colonial color and charm. Its elevation
When the Quechua-speaking soldiers of the great Inca Empire of Cuzco
is 9,184 feet. The 60,000 inhabitants of Tarija are isolated, individualistic,
conquered the area about A.D. 1200, they found the Aymaras about their
cultured, European, and deeply religious, and have not changed much
decaying but still impressive ruins. The Incas held all Bolivia until the ar-
rival of the Spanish conquerors.
since declaring themselves an independent republic in 1825.
These valleys spread out into the tropical lowlands that sweep from the
In 1535, Diego de Almagro, Francisco Pizarro's partner in conquest,
found a site near what is now Oruro. Then four years later Pedro Anzurez
Andes foothills in the north to the southeast near Argentina and Paraguay.
found a place later named Charcas (Sucre), which became the Audiencia
With much of the land but few of the country's people situated here, this
de Charcas under the Vice royalty of Peru in 1559.
area is said to be Bolivia's future. Most of the area is dense tropical forests,
But Bolivia's destiny was shaped in 1545, with the discovery of Potosí
with some rough pasture, swamp, and scrub in the center. Seasonal rainfall
and the shadowing mountain of silver: "Cerro Rico." This find stirred
is high and the climate is usually hot, except when a cold, Antarctic-based
great interest back in Spain and inspired a splendor at Potosí that rivaled
wind from the southern steppes strikes in the tropical east around Santa
the pretentious display of Lima. As the vast reserves of silver were shov-
Cruz. These annoyances are called "surazos," and they strike several times
eled out of the Cerro Rico Mountain, a Crown mint established locally
yearly for two or three days.
converted the metal into coins for shipment to Spain. For decades, a favor-
The northern part of these tropical lowlands was developed in the 16th
ite Spanish description for untold wealth was, "Vale un Potosí (worth a
and 17th centuries by Jesuit priests. The Beni area provided Europe with
potosí).
excellent tropical fruits, nuts, and dried beef. This area fell into decay after
The autocratic but well-organized social system of the Inca conquest
the Jesuit priests were expelled and the trails to the outside world disap-
of other indigenous subcultures was destroyed by Spanish colonization.
peared. Today, primitive Indian tribes live in this area and resist contact
The native population was pushed off fertile plains onto infertile moun-
with the outside world.
tainsides or incorporated into a peonage system, despite the Spanish
Crown's decree against enslavement. Spanish colonial officials took over
The Santa Cruz area has developed rapidly over the last 20 years. Sugar
the best lands and lived in relative luxury. Criollos, people of Spanish an-
and cotton crops and cattle raising have progressed. Hunters, fishermen,
cestry born in the Americas, also lived fairly well but resented their exclu-
birders, and botanists come to the area and are accommodated in hotels
sion from high appointive offices dispensed back in Spain.
in Trinidad, capital of Beni and the only significant city in the tropical
The criollos and the mestizos were the first people in Latin America to
north. Riberalta is another beautiful town in Beni.
sound the cry for liberty from Spanish rule. The first revolutionary move-
114
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
115
ments developed in Chuquisaca, La Paz, and Cochabamba in the summer
The peasants (151,434 family heads were given land titles under the rev-
and fall of 1809. All were suppressed until 1825 when Bolívar in the north
olution's agrarian reform program) have tended to support the moderate
and San Martín pressed their simultaneous liberation campaigns along the
MNR majority. But the miners threw their support to the party's leftist
Andean spine.
sector. This sector has supported excessive labor demands that have occa-
General Sucre, one of Bolívar's top leaders, liberated the country at the
sionally brought the nation's economy to near disaster and incited political
Battle of Tumulsa on April 2, 1825. Formerly known as Upper Peru, the
turmoil.
country was named for Bolívar, the Liberator, in tribute to his leadership
In 1979, after a failed coup, Congress elected the first woman president,
in the cause of South American independence. After Sucre set up Bolivia
Lydia Gueiler Tejada, scheduled to serve until elections slated for 1980.
as an independent nation and departed, his top general took over and pro-
A military coup, however, interrupted the country's democratic evolution
claimed a Peruvian-Bolivian confederation in 1836. General Santa Cruz
again in 1980. In 1982, however, Hernán Siles Zuazo, a former president
was defeated by dissident Peruvians 3 years later and the confederation
and co-founder of MNR, came to power and, during his first year as Presi-
was dismembered.
dent, took serious action toward placing Bolivia among the continent's
Independence did little for the people of Bolivia-political control of
few democracies.
the nation switched from one greedy group to another. The new Creole
In 1985 Siles Zuazo, a leader of the 1952 revolution, turned the govern-
rulers lived lavishly from the profits of the vast but ill-used mineral wealth.
ment over to Victor Paz Estenssoro, 78. After the 1952 revolution Paz
Bolivia was a republic, but it was not a nation.
For about 161 years after independence, the government changed hands
Estenssoro was sworn in as president with Siles Zuazo as his vice presi-
dent. Paz Estenssoro implemented drastic economic reforms to end an in-
78 times, often through military coups.
Weak governments made Bolivia vulnerable to the aggressive designs
flation rate running at higher than 24,000 percent, the highest in the world.
of neighbors. Several border disputes have dominated the nation's history,
The peso was devalued by 95 percent, gasoline prices increased 10 fold,
subtracted one-fourth its territory and left it a landlocked country. Several
and wages were frozen. Surprisingly, there has been very little social un-
incidents seemed to work in a pattern-a neighbor would grab a piece of
rest. The peso is now stable and inflation has ended. At the same time,
Bolivian territory, then build the loser a railroad. So, Bolivia ended up
the threat of military coup has evaporated and Bolivia's government is
with several disjointed railroads and without its useful land. When Chile
considered one of the most stable in South America.
defeated Bolivia and Peru in the War of the Pacific (1879-83), she took
Elections were held in May 1989, and in August a new president was
Bolivia's Pacific Coast area and built a railroad from La Paz to Arica.
sworn in. The economy has begun to pick up, especially the mining sector.
When Argentina annexed some of the Chaco area, it too built a railroad
connecting the two nations. When Brazil annexed the rich Acre area in
Bolivia's Rich Earth
1903, it promised a railroad (not yet completed). But in the Chaco War
with Paraguay (1933-35), Bolivia had to surrender a large area without
From its earliest days, Bolivia's fortunes have risen or fallen with the
riches extracted from its bountiful earth. Even before the arrival of the
the benefit of a railroad.
But this war was to influence Bolivia's future greatly. Stunned by an
Spaniards, the Incas were already mining the land's precious silver. It was
embarrassing defeat, young officers and indignant intellectuals began ex-
this rich lode that quickly brought conquerors, colonists, adventurers, and
amining the nation's conscience and prescribing solutions. The result was
prospectors in search of fame and fortune in what became the greatest min-
the formation of the National Revolutionary Movement (MNR) that
ing operation in the New World. Known then as Upper Peru, the area
gained power in 1952 and launched the first fundamental reforms in the
quickly prospered and then just as quickly declined as the mines were de-
pleted of the valuable silver. But it wasn't long before those same rich hills
nation's history.
in the Eastern Cordillera were found to contain tin, and the country's fu-
ture course was shaped.
Social Revolution
For a while, Bolivia's economy and the welfare of its people were largely
Two events have symbolized this revolution and help explain the trou-
dependent on the price of its principal product in the world markets. And
bled nature of Bolivia's contemporary history. Returning from the Chaco
to a greater or lesser degree, the same is true today. But now the country
War with an understanding of the world beyond their immediate misery,
is also mining bismuth, zinc, lead, antimony, wolfram and tungsten, as
some Aymara and Quechua veterans began thinking about the lot of their
well as tin, gold, and silver; and the prospect of rich natural gas and petro-
people and ways to change it. Several veterans in the Cliza Valley, near
leum deposits are contributing substantially to the nation's economy and
Cochabamba, organized their fellow men into a union and began joint ef-
helping it to achieve its goal of diversification.
forts to build a school. When union members tried to buy this land they
No longer a one-product country, Bolivia is presently expanding its ex-
had tilled for generations, the planters responded by flooding the valley
ploration for petroleum. The collapse of the world tin market and the drop
and destroying the humble homes. Like-minded miners at Catavi on the
in petroleum prices have devastated Bolivia's export economy. Export
altiplano fared even worse. Hundreds were shot down by government
earnings have dropped from 1 billion dollars a year to less than 400 mil-
troops in 1942 while striking for better wages and improved working con-
lion. Mines are closing and thousands of miners are migrating to the cities
and tropical lowlands.
ditions.
Cliza Valley and Catavi became symbols. The peasants and the miners
Although mining has been and continues to be, along with natural gas,
emerged from the social revolution the two strongest political forces, each
a chief contributor to the nation's economy, it accounts for less than 10
armed and functioning as a militia because the traditional army had been
percent of the gross domestic product and represents less than 2 percent
destroyed in the 1952 revolution.
of the labor force. Nevertheless, tin still accounts for close to half of the
116
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
117
country's total mineral exports, in spite of the fact that gas production
became the "de facto" capital in the wake of the mining boom. Sucre has
has risen steadily in the past.
an interesting display of buildings of both the colonial and republican eras.
Industrially, Bolivia is still running behind economic goals it has set
Many Latin American revolutionary leaders studied here at one of the old-
for itself. While manufacturing is changing slowly from handcrafts to in-
est universities in Latin America.
dustrial goods, the growth in this area has been set back by the lack of
La Paz, Oruro, Cochabamba, Potosí, and Sucre are joined by railroad.
facilities and purchasing power. The country still depends in large measure
The only way to get to another important community, Tarija, in the south-
on prices paid for a very limited number of mineral products overseas.
east of these upland cities, is by a difficult road or by LAB. This settlement
Lately, Bolivia has been cooperating much more effectively with its
in the rich Guadalquivir River valley was founded in 1574 and has since
neighbors and integrating its economy with theirs through its membership
in the Andean Common Market and ALADI (Asociación Latinoameri-
remained an isolated island apart from the rest of Bolivia. Thus cut off,
cana de Integracion) and development of rail and gas projects with Brazil.
the people have grown a variety of fine crops for their own consumption,
developed an individualism that has made them as much Argentine as Bo-
livian, produced a supply of skillful farm hands for Argentine agriculture,
How to See Bolivia
and formed a pocket of advanced culture apart from the rest of the nation.
A visit to Bolivia usually begins in La Paz. After seeing the usual tourist
Returning to Cochabamba, one can continue eastward into the interior
sites around La Paz and the unusual tourist attractions farther north, the
of the nation or take a river trip north to Trinidad. This latter trip involves
Bolivia of the past and future still lies ahead in all its charm and challenge.
traveling 120 miles by road to Puerto Chipiriri, on a branch of the large
Oruro is a mining center 130 miles southeast of La Paz. The only tourist
Rio Grande. The boat trip up this river to Trinidad takes four days, and
attraction here is the dance and ceremony performed during the Devil's
the tourist might later fly back to La Paz or any other part of Bolivia.
Festival on the Saturday before Ash Wednesday. This involves an elabor-
The alternative of continuing eastward on the Cochabamba-Santa Cruz
ately costumed "bear" and "condor" clearing the way for a parade of simi-
Highway opens several other interesting possibilities.
larly costumed dancers led by alternate twosomes of Satan and Lucifer
The old 315-mile Cochabamba-Santa Cruz Highway demonstrates what
and St. Michael the Archangel and China Supay, the Devil's wife and sex-
20th-century communication can do for a nation still existing in the 19th
ual stimulant. After a leaping and shouting parade through town, the par-
century. This highway, completed in 1954 after nine years of construction
ticipants crowd into the main plaza and perform dramatic rituals in which
and a $50 million U.S. Export-Import Bank loan, actually united a nation
virtue, like hero over villain, prevails over sin. A mining theme is woven
that was falling apart and shaped an economy that was in serious trouble.
into the drama, in which the costumes represent a major portion of one's
From Cochabamba to Santa Cruz there is a new road that crosses
wealth.
through the Chapare coca leaf producing region. A good part of it is
Cochabamba is still a city of beauty, eternal spring and sunshine, but.
paved, and if you wish, you can begin a river trip on Puerto Villarroel
it has been caught in the cross fire of Bolivia's political turmoil and eco-
north to Trinidad.
nomic change. Once the prosperous center of a rich and vast area of plan-
The old Cochabamba-Santa Cruz Highway winds through the Cliza
tation agriculture, the social revolution's land reform program has sent
Valley, where the first important modern political movement among Indi-
many of the old planters into exile or other livelihoods, divided up the
ans began. Spurred by the 1952 social revolution, an indigenous peasant
big, absentee-owned plantations among peasants, and diverted other peas-
union in the valley community of Ucurena demanded that a planter return
ants to colonization projects in Eastern Bolivia. The most important tour-
land to peasants who had been evicted in the 1930s for union activity.
ist attraction is the townhouse of Tin Baron Simón Patiño, which has been
When the planter stalled, these groups began a march on nearby towns,
converted into a museum. The usual market here has the additional attrac-
and for a while civil war between rural and urban groups hovered over
tion of local Indian women with their unusual stovepipe hats. Newly dis-
the nation. Politics are still tense in this valley that someday might symbol-
covered ruins at Incallajta, about 65 miles from Cochabamba, will soon
ize the political awakening of the indigenous population in Central and
be open for tourists.
South America.
Potosí is nine and a half hours southward by train from Cochabamba
Continuing east, the traveler can forget politics and take up geology.
over one of the world's highest railroads, reaching an altitude of 15,809
In the next 300 miles he will travel through all four of the classified geolog-
feet at the junction of Condor. One of the first great cities of the Americas
ical areas. First, he will experience the tundra area of the valleys, with
with a population of about 150,000 early in the 17th century, Potosí has
its many flowers but no trees. Then comes the rain forest, with its mosses,
retained much of its colonial charm. Twisting, narrow streets pass aging
ferns, and damp, humid climate. Next, there's the desert with pipe-organ
mansions with colonial coats of arms, reminding one that this busy agri-
cactus, much sand, and little grass. Finally, near Santa Cruz, the tropical
cultural and mining center was once a majestic city. The city remains in
jungle breaks out in towering and verdant growth.
the shadow of "Cerro Rico," which pumped silver into the Spanish trea-
"This 311-mile trip is like traveling from Ecuador to Alaska," one geol-
sury in the early colonial period. The "Real Casa de Moneda" (Royal
ogist remarked after traveling over the road and examining its specimens.
Mint), built in 1542 and rebuilt in 1759, still stands but has been converted
tation. Here one finds every temperature zone and practically every kind of vege-
into a museum. Some of the old homes and churches have oil paintings
of considerable merit. Some 30 churches reflect good examples of Renais-
Arriving at the frontier community of Santa Cruz, one will quickly see
sance or Romanesque architecture.
its importance as a commercial and industrial center. Santà Cruz is now
Sucre is still the big oddity of Bolivia. This city, 109 miles northeast
the fastest growing city in Bolivia, and its prosperity is apparent in oil
from Potosí is the legal capital of the nation, but the Supreme Court Build-
fields, cotton plantations, sugar and lumber mills, and its busy airport, now
ing is the only vestige of what now unofficially belongs to La Paz. La Paz
an important arrival and departure point for international flights.
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SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
119
After Santa Cruz the visitor can decide whether to see more frontier
or return to La Paz. There is no tourist attraction on the road northward,
only an area undergoing rapid economic growth with cattle and tropical
farming and intense social change with colonization projects. If a highway
survey party cuts a small path through this jungle, colonists will line it
immediately and begin tilling its fertile soil. This area is truly a laboratory
for economic growth and social development. The center for this area's
development is Santa Cruz.
There is still plenty of unexplored frontier in Bolivia. A tourist can trav-
el from Santa Cruz to Corumba, Brazil, by railroad and see unfurled before
him the beauty of the tropics, the smell of the jungle and birdlife that at
River
BOLIVIA
times seems to etch a rainbow in the sky. Over this 406-mile railroad, one
Abuna
passes villages populated by former primitives, some of whom have be-
come civilized only in the past decade. Until several years ago, uncivilized
Cobija
PANDO
cousins of these residents occasionally attacked the communities with bow
and arrow. Now these people have disappeared farther into the jungle
BRAZIL
brush to avert what they consider the annoyance of modern civilization.
Trees and Birds
Beni River
Púpuya
Mahogany trees here spread skyward in majestic dimensions, housing
Mtn.
1)
communities of many-hued birds. At times, several duplexes or two-room
LA PAZ
BENI
Alcoche
Trinidad
bird dwellings can be seen dangling from a single limb and sometimes a
Caranavi
tree will enfold as many as 50 bird nests.
Puerto
Mapiri
Acosta
These birds often have several colors arrayed in attractive patterns.
Sorata
Lake
Illampu
When they fly in formations against the late afternoon sky, it is truly some-
Mtn.
thing to remember. The many types of parrots (some very talkative) often
Coripata
Chulumani
Concepción
fly in groups, whereas the many big-beaked toucans usually fly in pairs.
LA PAZ
Illimani
COCHABAMBA
SANTA
CRUZ
Another interesting tree in the area is a cotton tree, that reaches some
Mtn
Cochabamba
100 feet upward and sprouts a bulb of cottonlike material as large as a
cantaloupe and which can be used for making cloth. There is an abundance
Oruro
SANTA
CRUZ
Sajama
Santa Cruz
of other flora that-with the fauna-makes this, the heartland of a conti-
Mtn.
Puerto
Lake
nent, something beautiful to see.
ORURO
Poopo)
Cabezas
Suarez
In the mid part of the train ride from Santa Cruz to Corumba, an unusu-
Sucre
al type of topography stretches over about 10 miles. Beautiful mountains
Potosi
Monteagudo
rise abruptly like polished stones from what is otherwise level jungleland.
SUCRE
Camiri
These small, stonelike mountains near San José have several colors, which,
POTOSÍ
in the reflection of the noonday sun, provide another-world atmosphere.
Upon reaching Corumba, on the Paraguay River, you can take a steam-
PARAGUAY
Tupiza
er down the river to Asunción, Paraguay, or Buenos Aires. By entering
TARIJA
Tarija
Bolivia by rail from Arica, the traveler therefore could continue crossing
IILE
Villazon
the continent overland by following the route outlined above. It's rough
but rewarding.
ARCHAEOL OGICAL SITE
ARGENTINA
MOUNTAIN PEAK
150 Miles
250 Kilometers
SCALE
120
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
121
you must stop by the nearest immigration office to get an exit visa. Cigarettes and
no more than two bottles of alcohol are allowed. Cameras and typewriters can be
brought in without much problem. Be especially careful about what you take out;
FACTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
many tourists who have tried to smuggle out a little bit of cocaine or marijuana
have ended up spending years in jail. There is a $10 airport tax on international
flights.
WHAT IT WILL COST. Bolivia has managed to control an inflation rate that
GETTING TO BOLIVIA. By air. Lloyd Aereo Boliviano (LAB), Miami to Santa
reached 15,000% in 1985. As a result, prices have stabilized and the dollar has lost
Cruz and La Paz with connecting flights to other cities. Eastern Airlines, Miami
some of its purchasing power. Even so, there are many bargains to be found in Boliv-
to La Paz. Lufthansa, Frankfurt to Puerto Rico, Quito, and La Paz (a nice flight
ia, especially in handicrafts, silver, and gold. A good meal costs around $10. A mod-
to enjoy the beaches of San Juan on your way). LAB airlines, Rio de Janeiro and
erately priced hotel costs $25 for a double room with private bath.
São Paulo to Santa Cruz and La Paz; Buenos Aires to Santa Cruz; Santiago to Arica
and La Paz; Panama to Santa Cruz and La Paz; Caracas to Santa Cruz; Asuncion
SOURCES OF INFORMATION. Information on Bolivia is provided at the of-
to Santa Cruz and La Paz; Cuzco to La Paz; Lima to La Paz. La Paz is also served
fice of the Consulate General, 211 E. 43rd St., Rm. 802, New York, NY 10017 (tel.
by Varig from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, as well as Aero Peru and Lineas Aereas
212-687-0530) or at the Bolivian Embassy, 3014 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Wash-
Paraguayas. Check with your local travel agent for new schedules and prices to
ington, DC 20008 (tel. 202-483-4410).
and from La Paz. The new, ultra modern Viru-Viru airport in Santa Cruz opened
in 1985.
WHEN TO GO. Due to its closeness to the equator Bolivia has every climate
and terrain imaginable. Temperature is largely determined by altitude. There is a
CURRENCY. The boliviano has replaced the peso as the official monetary unit
rainy season that runs from Oct. to Mar. and a dry season that runs from Apr.
of Bolivia. Six zeros have been eliminated from the old peso bills, and new boliviano
to Sept. Rains can be heavy in the rainy season but only last an hour or two. During
bills are in circulation.
the dry winter season the skies in most of Bolivia are dark blue. In the mountainous
The official and black market exchange rates are around 2.70 bolivianos to the
regions of the country it is 50° to 70°F under the sun, with temperatures dropping
dollar at press time. Since the government implemented an austerity program, the
to freezing at night. Carnival takes place in either Feb. or Mar. when the heavy
large disparity that existed between the official and black market rates has been
rains are nearly over. If interested in road travel, it's not advisable to travel by land
eliminated. It is possible to legally change dollars on the sidewalks of Av. Bolívar
during the rainy season due to deteriorated road conditions.
and other areas of downtown and El Prado. Money can also be changed at "Casas
de Cambio" located throughout La Paz and other cities. Traveler's checks may
WHAT TO TAKE. For the city of La Paz and the highlands, woolen sweaters
often be difficult to change unless you have some contact. Hotels base their prices
and a windbreaker are recommended. During the day the temperature may reach
on the official rate, which is revised daily. As of January 1, 1987, the government
70°F. but it drops in the evening. During the rainy season an umbrella or raincoat
changed the currency to eliminate the use of six zeros. Dollars can also be used
is necessary. The sun in the mountains is very strong so be sure to bring a good
for many transactions. Most hotels and stores now accept VISA credit cards or
sunscreen and wear a hat. In Santa Cruz, Trinidad, and other tropical regions, light
American Express. Other cards are usually not accepted.
clothing is worn year-round. Jackets are expected at fancy restaurants, but informal
Prices, unless noted otherwise, are in U.S. dollars.
clothing should do for most places.
HOTELS. Most Bolivian cities have good to excellent hotel accommodations.
SPECIAL EVENTS. The Oruro carnival scheduled for the Sat. before Ash
Always try and make your reservations in advance for hotels, especially if you're
Wednesday, and the "Pujllay" carnival in Tarabuco, scheduled for Mar., are impor-
planning on visiting Oruro, La Paz, or Santa Cruz during Carnival. Breakfast is
tant cultural festivals very much worth visiting. Also recommended is the Fiesta
usually not included in hotel rates.
de la Cruz (Feast of the Cross) that takes place the first weekend in May. In Acho-
Hotel rates are based on the official dollar exchange rate. Since a slightly higher
calla, a village located one hour from La Paz, hundreds of area residents dance
rate can be found on the black market, you can save some money by buying bolivia-
wearing elaborate costumes and the Aymara Kusillo mask. La Fiesta de la Cruz
nos on the black market. Credit card payments are made based on the official rate.
is also observed in Copacabana and other communities. It is one of the most impor-
Price ranges given in this chapter are for double occupancy: Deluxe, $65 and
tant feast days. On San Pedro, which falls on June 28-29, many villages, among
up; Expensive, $30-$60; Moderate, $20-$30; Inexpensive, under $20.
them Achacachi, Curva, Carabuco, and Tiquina, have festivals in honor of San
Pedro. The feast of Santiago, celebrated July 25, features native dances and proces-
RESTAURANTS. Restaurants have been classified as follows for dinner for one
sions. Gran Poder, celebrated in La Paz late May or early June, has thousands of
person, excluding drinks, service charge, tax, or tip: Deluxe, $20 and up; Expensive,
dancers performing "La Diablada," Morenada, and a host of dances typical of the
$10-$20; Moderate, $5-$10; Inexpensive, under $5.
highland. On San Juan, held on June 24, La Paz and other Andean cities are lit
up by fires to fend off the cold of winter. Several communities hold celebrations
Bolivian Food and Drink. One of Bolivia's little known secrets is its great culi-
in honor of San Juan. The Alacitas' fair of miniatures in honor of the Ekkeko, the
nary tradition. Some day the cooking of the Andes should receive the credit it de-
Aymara Indian patron of abundance, takes place at the end of January in La Paz.
serves. Corn, potatoes, and quinoa, a high protein grain, are native to the Andes.
Miniature handicrafts, household goods, houses, vehicles, and figures are sold at
Bolivians have developed thousands of dishes based on these and other products.
the fair. For the opening La Paz residents stock up on miniature pesos and dollar
Unfortunately, few hotels will provide a good idea of the richness of Bolivian
bills and have them blessed at a church with the hope that the year will be plentiful.
cuisine. Often the best way to be introduced is through Bolivian friends.
Alasita fairs also take place in other cities.
For a mid-morning snack, nothing beats "salteña," a hearty stew of beef, peas,
Check with the Bolivian Tourist Agency at Edificio Ballivian, Calle Mercado,
potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and a spicy sauce wrapped in a dough and baked.
tel. 367 463 for other festivals planned during your visit.
Served piping hot, it is popular at mid-morning celebrations.
Bolivian soups are second to none. Try a creamy peanut soup with pieces of
TRAVEL DOCUMENTS AND CUSTOMS. U.S., U.K., and Canadian visitors
chick-peas, cabbage, potatoes, and peas, or a pumpkin soup/stew served during
require passports. Tourist cards are issued at airports or train stations and are valid
Easter with chunks of corn, melted cheese, and fava beans. Also worth trying are
for 30 days. They can be extended at the immigration office located on the Plaza
"chairo," a hearty soup made with beef, chunks of dehydrated potatoes, fava beans,
de Estudiantes in La Paz, tel. 370 475. in La Paz. If you stay longer than 30 days
and potatoes; "sopa de papa lisa," made from small, yellowish potatoes native to
122
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
123
the highlands; and "sopa de quinoa," made from the quinoa grain that can also
tion of foreign-language books and magazines (in La Paz, on Calle Mercado). La
be used in thousands of dishes ranging from granola, bread, stews, casseroles, and
Paz has five dailies-Presencia, Hoy, El Diario, and Ultima Hora are sold in the
puddings.
morning, Jornada in the afternoon. In Santa Cruz you can purchase El Mundo o
La Paz and other cities also make an excellent French-style bread. In La Paz
El Deber and El Día; in Cochabamba, La Opinion and Los Tiempos. Bolivian dailies
the typical bread is known as "marraqueta." Baked early morning and afternoon,
carry a good amount of foreign news.
the "marraqueta" is tops.
If visiting Sucre, at the airport try the chorizos, a pork sausage flavored with,
ELECTRIC CURRENT. La Paz runs on 220 and 110 current. The rest of Bolivia
green onions, fresh oregano, parsley, nutmeg, garlic, etc. For lunch or dinner be
is 220. Current is 50 cycle A.C.
sure not to miss ckocko, a spicy chicken dish flavored with wine and a local corn
brew. Also worth trying is fritanga, a pork dish flavored with fresh mint and ground
USEFUL ADDRESSES. The U.S. Embassy is located on the Calle Colon, cor-
hot red pepper sauce that is accompanied by hominy. For an appetizer or even main
ner with Mercado. The U.S. consulate at 1285 Calle Potosi (350-120) is open morn-
dish nothing beats the pastel de choclo or humintas made from ground corn.
ings. The Canadian consulate is at Av. Arce 2342 (375-224). The British Embassy
In La Paz try the fricasse, a spicy pork and hominy stew served at the Hotel
is on the Avenida Arce 2732 (329-401).
Plaza. If interested in something mild, try the Lake Titicaca salmon trout or excel-
The tourist Information center is in the Mariscal Ballivián Building, 18th Floor,
lent grass-fed filet mignon from the Beni or highlands accompanied by one of the
200-odd varieties of potatoes.
Calle Mercado between Loayza and Colón (367-464, and 358-213).
In Santa Cruz or Trinidad, try a fresh heart of palm salad or a good juicy steak
Useful telephone numbers in La Paz: Airport information, 810-122; Immigration,
accompanied by rice with melted cheese and black beans. A delicious accompani-
370-475; Bus terminal, 367-274; Police, 110; Tourist police, 367-441.
ment is fried plantain or yuca.
In terms of fruit it is hard to equal the variety found in Bolivia. Because of the
HEALTH AND SAFETY. Despite Bolivia's reputation as an unstable, coup-
country's proximity to the equator, in Andean cities you will find a wide selection
prone country, it is one of the safest countries to visit in South America. Bolivia
of valley and tropical fruits. Try chirimoya, a green and black-pocketed fruit with
has gone through five massive devaluations in as many years, numerous strikes,
a creamy white filling-it makes great ice cream or mousse. Also worth trying are
roadblocks, and marches but during that period not one person has been killed from
the tumbo, a sweet-acid fruit, orange-colored bananas, and most fruits common
politically related violence. Since Victor Paz Estenssoro took over Aug. 6, 1985,
to the U.S. and Europe.
strikes have decreased and political unrest been reduced to a minimum. Foreign
Bolivia also has a thriving beer and wine industry. Beer made by Germans or
diplomats who have served in other Latin American posts say Bolivia is one of the
their descendents is superb, as many Europeans and Americans have attested to.
safest and friendliest countries in the Third World. Bolivia is a friendly and hospita-
Good and flavorful beer is sold throughout the country.
ble country.) Muggings are very rare but be careful of pickpockets, especially on
Bolivia's wine industry is based in Tarija, Camargo, and other southern Bolivian
crowded buses or in airports and railroad or bus stations. Be sure to carry your
regions. Best are Coinca, Kohlberg Fundador, and San Pedro Cavergnet.
wallet in an inside pocket or body-belt and women should carry their purse close
Once you've adjusted to the altitude, be sure to try singani, a distilled spirit made
to their bodies.
from grapes. It is served as a pisco sour or "chuflay," a mixture of "seven-up," sin-
Water in most cities is treated, but to be on the safe side drink only bottled water
gani, and lemon juice.
and avoid eating salads or raw vegetables in restaurants. Avoid the purchase of
cooked food from street stands or in markets.
TIPPING. Restaurants add 11% tax but not gratuities to the bill; waiters will
In the altitude of La Paz, Potosi, and the Altiplano take it easy the first couple
expect a 10% cash tip.in addition. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, but for long
of days-avoid alcohol, heavy foods, and too much activity. Drinking coca tea is
distances or when hired for long periods in the city, a tip may be given according
recommended to help adjust to the altitude. Some of those who've best adjusted
to the service received. At airports plan on tipping baggage handlers $.50 for every
to the altitude are the elderly-so don't stay away from La Paz and other highland
piece of luggage.
areas for fear of the altitude.
BUSINESS HOURS AND HOLIDAYS. Shops open at 9 or 9:30 A.M., close at
GETTING AROUND BOLIVIA. By air. Lloyd Aereo Boliviano, the national air-
noon and reopen at 2:30 P.M., to close again at around 7 P.M. Many shops are also
line, serves most Bolivian cities. To reach tropical cities and towns Transporte Aereo
open on Sat. mornings.
Militar (TAM) also provides regular passenger service. During the Dec. to Mar.
Banks open at 9:00 A.M. and close at 11:30 A.M., reopen at 2 P.M. and close at 4:30
rainy season flights may be cancelled or delayed due to bad weather.
P.M. The post office is open from 9 A.M. to noon and 2:30 until 7 P.M.
Lloyd Aereo passengers embarking in Miami should look into a month-long pass
National holidays: Jan. 1 (New Year's Day), Monday and Tuesday of Carnival,
for unlimited air travel in Bolivia.
Good Friday, May 1 (Labor Day), Corpus Christi (movable), Aug. 6 (Independence
By train. Trains link La Paz with Peru, Chile, Argentina, Potosi, Sucre, Oruro,
Day), November 2 (Day of the Dead), Dec. 25 (Christmas).
and Cochabamba. Trains are often delayed, especially during the rainy season.
There is also train service between Santa Cruz and Brazil or Argentina.
TELEPHONES AND MAIL. Pay phones exist in many cities and can be used
By bus. There is good bus service between major cities. Crowded buses often
with the old 5-peso coins usually sold nearby. With the increased circulation of boli-
serve rural communities. During the rainy season avoid bus travel on unpaved
viano coins this situation may change. Hotels and ENTEL, the state long-distance
roads, especially the road linking Santa Cruz to Cochabamba. Buses to Oruro and
telephone company, offer long-distance service. Direct-dial is available from La Paz
Cochabamba leave regularly. Tickets must-be purchased ahead of time for inter-city
to many Bolivian cities. Information is 104 in La Paz. The domestic long-distance
bus travel. Bus departures are usually on time. Be sure to bring food along.
operator is 101. A long-distance operator can be reached at 356-700.
By boat. Boat service is available from Huatajata on the shores of Lake Titicaca
Mail service is fairly reliable to the U.S. and Europe. Urgent packages can be
to Copacabana and Puno, Peru. Crillon tours and Transturin Trimaran Service,
sent through DHL, Calle Loayza 250, tel. 340-887; IML Courier Ed. Mcal Ballivi-
Turismo Balsa, and Atlas Tours offer boat service on the lake. Fremen Tours offers
an of 1209, tel. 350 472; Choice Sky courier Ed. Avenida, Av. 16 de Julio, tel. 328
boat service on the eastern Bolivian rivers.
841, La Paz.
By car. In La Paz Kolla Motor offers 4-wheel-drive vehicles. Taxis can be hired
by the hour in front of hotels; they provide service to Lake Titicaca, Oruro, and
NEWSPAPERS. Bolivia does not have an English-language newspaper but mag-
other regions. Bernardo Luna (323-741) offers 4-wheel-drive vans and taxis for out-
azines such as Newsweek and Time are sold in many kiosks and at Amigos del Libro,
of-city trips; he is an excellent driver with a good knowledge of rural roads.
with branches in La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz, which offers a good selec-
In Cochabamba, Barrons (22774) provides Toyota jeeps.
124
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
125
FLORA AND FAUNA. Bolivia has a remarkable variety of flora and fauna. In
the Andes you will find llamas, alpacas, vicunas, armadillos, condors, etc. To the
southeast of La Paz in Comanche there is also the 30-foot-high Puya Raimundi
plant that takes one hundred years to flower. In Lake Titicaca there are salmon,
trout, Pejerrey, large frogs (with export-quality legs), and a wide variety of birds.
In the tropical part of Bolivia, which covers nearly two-thirds of the country,
there is a rich and varied wildlife and fauna. There are monkeys, wild turkeys, pigs,
Exploring Bolivia
ocelots, piranhas, and alligators as well as several million head of cattle.
LA PAZ
At dawn mist and clouds can be seen rising from the lower valleys until
the sun peers from above the Andes and bathes the surrounding hills with
hues of red, ocher, and blue. At dusk, as the sun settles on the Altiplano
flatlands surrounding the valley of La Paz, a reddish glow envelops the
city's greatest landmark, the snowy peaks of the 21,000-foot Illimani
Mountain.
With the Andes and deep blue skies as a backdrop, Aymara Indian
women, children in tow, sell their wares at roadside market stalls facing
tin- and straw-covered adobe homes. Whether landing on the 13,000-foot-
high El Alto airstrip or crossing Lake Titicaca by boat, the barren plateau
known as the Altiplano is a visitor's first introduction to the city of La
Paz.
The Altiplano hides the presence of a thriving metropolis of one million
inhabitants that opens up at its edge. Without warning, the plateau breaks
and reveals below a deep jagged valley covered with adobe and brick
homes clinging to the hillside. Skyscrapers, rising to meet the jagged hills
of the valley, cast shadows over adobe, stone, and brick homes, cobble-
stoned streets and tree-lined plazas that hide rich and colorful traditions
growing out of centuries of Spanish conquest, revolution, and Aymara fol-
kore. And only three hours away by car, on the eastern slopes of the
Andes, are banana and orange groves.
Before the sun is out, men, women, and children, wearing bowler hats
and multilayered skirts known as polleras, begin their daily trek by foot
or bus to the center of La Paz. By the time the sun has risen, Aymara-
speaking vendors are in place in the markets, ready to offer a wide variety
of vegetables, fruits, whole pigs, clothing, household goods, and steaming
hot coffee.
Aymaras live in the surrounding hills and market areas. Below are the
homes and workplaces of a Creole class that has identified itself more with
its European forebears than with the Indians who make up 70 percent of
the country's population. The city then descends several thousand feet to
the neighborhoods of Obrajes, Calacoto, and Irpavi, where diplomats and
wealthy Bolivians, including many in the military, live in sumptuous
homes.
If you are arriving by plane, it is a good idea to take it easy the first
day because of the rarefied air. Those who reach La Paz by crossing the
lake from Puno, Peru, however, should be accustomed to the altitude. It
is wise to drink and eat lightly at first, but drink plenty of mate de coca,
a brew made from the coca leaves, to help fend off the effects of the alti-
tude.
To get your bearings and capture some of the color, bustle, and contrast-
ing life-styles found in La Paz, start your visit by taking a walking tour
of downtown. With most good hotels located in the center, you'll only
be a few blocks from the city's main avenue, Avenida 16 de Julio, better
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
126
127
known as El Prado, with its promenade of trees, flowers, and monuments.
days and Saturdays, at least thirty blocks near Buenos Aires are filled with
In the evening it will be jammed with traffic and people returning from
stalls offering contraband goods at low prices.
work. On Sundays the Prado is filled with families out for a stroll. You
Above the Buenos Aires are hundreds of workshops that make the elab-
will also see old homes, with elaborate iron latticework and balustrades,
orate costumes, masks, and trinkets used for the Gran Poder festival, the
which managed to survive the 1970s building boom that transformed the
city's most important folkloric expression. In June thousands of dancers
skyline of La Paz.
pay homage to the Gran Poder-a god that is a mixture of pagan and
El Prado becomes Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz going upward. At the
Catholic beliefs-in a colorful orgy of dancing, music, and drinking that
upper end of Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz, before it becomes Avenida
attracts hundreds of thousands of spectators.
Montes, is the San Francisco church, built in 1549. Its stone carved portico
On the Calle Gallardo No. 1080, one block above Buenos Aires, is a
shows a fine example of the baroque Spanish architecture, combined with
small workshop that used to belong to the late Antonio Viscarra, a master
native craftsmanship, that flourished in Bolivia during the sixteenth, sev-
maskmaker who devoted sixty-five of his seventy-four years to making
enteenth, and eighteenth centuries. The facade is decorated with carved
elaborate plaster and cloth masks representing the devil, his blue-eyed,
images of birds of prey, masks, pine cones, and parrots. The church offers
blond mistress, and a parthenon of saints, African slaves, and Incas that
one of the finest examples of religious colonial architecture to be seen in
perform for the Gran Poder, Diablada, and other festivals. Fortunately,
South America.
his daughter and son-in law Carlos Fuentes carry on this tradition. For
A visitor can spend several days exploring the roads and alleys that
around fifteen dollars you can purchase an elaborate horned devil's mask
branch off from the San Francisco church. Bordering it is the Calle Sa-
that took a month to make. Or you can purchase beautiful miniature re-
garnaga, lined with dozens of small shops stocked with leather goods,
productions of larger masks.
weavings, alpaca sweaters, silver, and antiques. Vendors on the street sell
After several hours of visiting this area you should be ready for a break.
old coins, irons heated with charcoal, silver or pewter ware, and small
Many Paceños, as residents of La Paz are called, take time off at mid-
stone carvings made by the Aymara or Quechua people who inhabit the
morning to eat the salteña, a hearty beef, olive, hard-boiled egg, potato,
Altiplano. Sweaters range in price from twenty to fifty dollars, depending
and pea stew wrapped in a dough that is Bolivia's contribution to haute
on the quality.
cuisine. They are sold throughout the city, but be careful where you get
Adjacent to San Francisco is a handicraft gallery sponsored by the Cath-
them if you want to avoid getting sick. The most delicious ones are served
olic church. Open Monday to Friday from 10 A.M. to 1 P.M. and 2:30 to
for around 50 cents at the Salteñería Super Salteña on Av. Sanchez Lima
7 P.M., and Saturday and Sunday in the morning, you'll find weavings,
and on Calle Socabaya. They are also available in the basement of the
sweaters, and handcrafted Bolivian instruments such as the quena, zam-
Hotel Plaza, the Confitería Arabesque on Calle Loayza corner of Mercado.
poña tarka, and charango, a stringed instrument with a backing made from
Salteñas Potosinas and Salteñas Miriam, both on Av. 6 de Agosto, and
the carapace of an armadillo. At Rumillajta you can purchase these instru-
Filippo Lipi on Plaza Abaroa, are also worth trying.
ments of professional quality for three to thirty dollars. Be sure to ask the
An alternative mid-morning break is a visit to the popular Cafe La Paz,
vendors, who are young, accomplished musicians, to try them out for you.
located on the corner of Ayacucho and Camacho. This quaint old cafe
A block above San Francisco on the Calle Linares to the right, and espe-
is a hangout for politicians, businessmen, tourists, and labor leaders. It
cially as you go along until you reach Calle Santa Cruz, you will find Ay-
was also Nazi war criminal Klaus Barbie's favorite spot until he was ex-
mara-speaking women wearing the traditional bowler hat offering medici-
pelled from Bolivia in 1983. They serve the best espresso in town, iced
nal cures still used by the callawayas, the ancient medicine men who
coffee, and lima juice-made from a non-acidy citrus fruit grown in the
attended the Inca courts and used quinine to cure malaria long before it
tropics-and cheese pastries.
was adopted by Western medicine. Roadside stands offer herbs for curing
Because of the altitude, it is wise to eat the main meal at lunch and have
rheumatism, stomach pains, etc. Also available are llama fetuses, incense,
a light supper. A siesta after lunch is enjoyed by many.
small bottles with sweet syrups, nuts, wool, copal, and grease-items that
An afternoon tour could include a visit to the Galeria Emusa, located
are used for white magic ceremonies and to protect a dwelling from evil
on the Prado. The city's most important gallery offers a wide and often
spirits. For about two dollars you can purchase a bag of offerings to the
beautiful assortment of Bolivian art and sculpture. Emusa is open week-
goddess of the earth, the pachamama, and be assured of a bountiful year.
days 10 A.M. to 1 P.M. and 4 to 7 P.M. Another private gallery to visit is
Whenever construction on a home begins, these ingredients are burned
Galeria Arkani on Calle Belisario Salinas which also has an excellent
and the ashes buried in the corner during a ceremony known as the "chal-
framing shop. Centro Portales (upstairs from Galería Emusa), Casa de
la." The Tuesday after Carnival most Bolivians challan, or bless their be-
la Cultura (across the street from San Francisco), and Salón Municipal
longings by sprinkling alcohol and streams of colored paper.
Cecilio Guzmán de Rojas (Calle Colón, between Camacho and Mercado)
The Sagarnaga continues up to market areas, where shoeshine boys,
also have varied art exhibits worth visiting.
vendors, and peasants offer their wares. Tucked away in courtyards and
Another alternative is to take an all-day tour offered by numerous travel
alleys are tambos, where bananas, oranges, and coca leaves are available.
agencies found in La Paz for about $18 (including lunch). Half-day tours
Coca leaves, from which cocaine paste is made, are widely used in restau-
will cost around $12. You can also hire a private taxi by the hour.
rants as a tea, or chewed by peasants to help fend off the effects of hunger
Heading downhill from the Prado you will pass the university and high-
rise apartments before reaching the neighborhood of San Jorge and the
and tiredness.
If walking the streets tires you, take a taxi for about a quarter or a bus
presidential residence. The road bends and continues downward until it
for even less up to Buenos Aires avenue. It competes with the downtown
reaches the neighborhood of Obrajes and Calacoto, which are several de-
business area as the most thriving commercial area of La Paz. On Wednes-
grees warmer because of the drop in altitude.
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
128
129
From Calacoto head to La Florida, take the road bordering a river to
Aranjuez, cross the La Paz River, and continue toward Mallasa and the
74
CARRASCO
BUSCH
PAUDENCIO
Valley of the Moon, named because of the rock and dirt formations that
exist there. If you continue eastward, the roads descends to La Palca and
OMERO
other fertile valleys where vegetables and fruits, including peaches, apri-
I
ANUE
ROOS
cots, and plums, are cultivated.
On your way back be sure to visit the square facing the city stadium
AND
GUTIE
where a replica of a Tiwanacu courtyard can be found containing authen-
ARCE
tic stone monoliths and figures that date to the third to twelfth centuries.
APT
From there you'll be five minutes away by car from the Plaza Murillo,
DIORADO
GERR
where the presidential palace and congress are located. Before constitu-
BAT.
Rio Choqueyapu
nida
tional rule returned to Bolivia in October 1982, the palace was often guard-
Plaza
AV. ITURRALDE
Uyuni
AVENIDA
ed by tanks and machine-gun-toting soldiers.
ILLIMANI
In front of the presidential palace is a statue of former President Gual-
berto Villarroel. In 1946 a mob attacked the presidential palace, dragged
SAAVEDRA
ZAPAT
Villarroel to the square, and hung him from a lamp post; a nearby statue
commemorates the event. Diagonally across from the presidential palace
CALDERON
TELMO
SORZANO
N
RALES
DONY
VENIDA
SIMON
PARQUE
is congress, which has a visitor's gallery from which you can see democra-
cy at work.
VAID
Next to the presidential palace is the cathedral, built in 1835. Facing
it on the corner of Calle Socabaya and Comercio is the National Ar Mws
HTC which #2 but it 1775 is is Systems R the these as
: que bunding = is 822 The exterior and the courtyard are ornamented
with carved floral designs. In the center of the patio is an alabaster foun-
COROIL
BALLIVIAN
ONENE
EGGA
STRONGE
20
tain surrounded by plants. The three floors of the museum contain some
of the painting and scuptural treasures of Bolivia. The first floor is devoted
LOAYZA
INDABURO
CAMACHO
CRUZ (PRADO)
CANADA
AVENID
to exhibits of contemporary Bolivian and foreign artists; the second to the
MERCAD
000
colonial works of the grand master of Andean colonial painting, Melchor
12
10
Plaza
Sucre
Perez Holguin and his disciples; and the third to a permanent collection
of Bolivian artists. One room is devoted to the sculptures of Marina Nunez
BCLIVAR
Plaza
Murillo
UCHOOL
STATE
GRAU
Del Prado, whose abstract stone representations of Aymara and Quechua
AYAC
MARIS
UNITED
Indians have earned her a worldwide reputation. Art buffs can visit her
SOCABAYA
MARISCAL
ANTE
former home, which now houses an exquisite collection of masks, colonial
FLORES
silverware, and several hundred of her sculptures. The museum is located
on Calle Ecuador 2034.
SANISES
(PRADO/A
COCH
JENARO
GEN
M
OTIOZ
The National Art Museum (tel. 371-177) is open Tuesday through Fri-
CHINCHA
Plaza San
Francisco
RODRIA
day 9:30 A.M. to 12:30 P.M. and from 4 to 7 P.M.; Saturday it is open only
in the morning. Admission is about fifty cents, twenty-five cents for stu-
ALTO ALIANZA
MONTES
SICHAR
Paz
dents. None of the museums in La Paz offer English-speaking guides.
CAR
EREDES
After leaving the museum take a stroll down the Comercio street and
AVENIDA
CALDERON
take a right on the Calle Yanacocha until you reach the corner of Ingavi.
PISAGUA
30
Around the corner is the Ethnographic and Folklore Museum, a beautiful
MAX
eighteenth-century structure that is a repository of weavings, masks, feath-
AV
ers, and other objects of Bolivia's great cultural traditions. The museum
offers a permanent exhibit on the Ayoreos, an Indian group from the Ama-
zon area of the country, and on the Chipayas, who inhabit the most deso-
late area of the Altiplano and have maintained a distinct language and
Points of Interest
3) Mercado Artesanal (handicraft
culture. Tickets are available for ten cents. It is open Monday through
1) Witchdoctor's Market
2) San Francisco Church
market)
4) Museo Costumbrista
5) Casa de Murillo
6) Municipal Theater
7) Folkloric and Ethnographic
8) National Museum of Art
10) Palacio Presidencial
11) Congreso Nacional
12) U.S. Embassy
13) Mercado Camacho
14) National Tourist Office
17) Prehistoric Tiahuanaco Park
Friday, 8:30 to 11:45 A.M. and 2:30 to 5:45 P.M. On weekends it is open
10 A.M. to noon.
Museum
9) Cathedral
15) Biblioteca Municipal
16) Museo Tiahuanaco
18) San Andres University
19) City Tourist Information Center
From the museum head up one block, take a left, and go two blocks
until you reach Calle Jaen, a narrow, cobblestoned street that houses four
museums. They are open Monday through Friday, 9:30 A.M. to noon and
2 to 6:30 P.M., Saturdays and Sundays 10 A.M. to noon. Admission tickets
for the four museums can be purchased at the Museo Costumbrista for
about a dollar. Saturdays admission is free. Calle Jaen is itself very interest-
130
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
131
ing; as one of the best-preserved colonial streets in La Paz it will give the
plano is ablaze with street lights, and from the Altiplano above with bril-
visitor a glimpse into Bolivia's colorful but often turbulent past.
liant stars that sparkle in the clear La Paz sky.
The Murillo Museum was once the home of the War of Independence
hero Don Pedro Domingo Murrillo, after whom the city square is named.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR LA PAZ
In 1810 he was hanged by the Spanish for his anti-crown activities. The
colonial-style building houses a handsome collection of Bolivian handi-
GETTING AROUND LA PAZ. By bus. Buses-called micros-serve most city
crafts, art, and furniture. If you start to your left, you'll enter a room filled
neighborhoods. Fares within the city center are about 10 cents. To outlying neigh-
borhoods fares are higher. Fares are paid as you board the bus. Watch out for pick-
with over forty masks, several of which are the work of Antonio Viscarra
pockets who may slash purses.
or his grandfather. Also shown- are miniature representations of some of
By taxi. Taxis in La Paz will pick up 4 to 5 passengers and follow fixed routes,
the traditional dances of the Bolivian highlands and several display cases
i.e., down Avenida 6 de Agosto, up Avenida Arce, etc. Fares within the city center
showing diminutive hats, shoes, furniture, canned foods, and street ven-
are about 25 cents. If traveling to Obrajes or Calacoto, check the fare before board-
dors. The objects are from Alacitas, a traditional fair that takes place for
ing. Radio-dispatched taxi service is comfortable and efficient; fares are $3-$5 for
two weeks at the end of January. Bolivia's president and church officials
trips within the city (call 371111, 369994, 322424-37, 355554, or 355555). Tourist
taxis are also available in front of hotels. They charge an hourly rate of about $5
make their yearly pilgrimage to bless over twenty blocks of stands offering
or according to distance traveled. Be careful you are not overcharged at the air-
candied fruits, sweets, handicrafts, plaster saints and animals, miniature
port-an express trip to the city should cost no more than $8: If you share a taxi
pesos and dollar bills, and local dishes. The day the fair. is inaugurated,
with four others, expect to pay about $2.
city residents stock up on thousands of dollars worth of fake bills and min-
iatures and pray that during the year their wishes will come true.
HOTELS. For definitions of price categories, see "Facts at Your Fingertips."
From the courtyard in the Murillo Museum a stairway leads up to sever-
Deluxe
al exhibit halls. In the first room is a collection of silver masks, utensils,
Hotel Plaza, Av. 16 de Julio (378-300). Elegant, located on the Prado. 165
peacocks, and saddles that belonged to Bolivia's aristocracy. In other halls
rooms. Offers sauna, swimming pool, rooms with a view of the Illimani and an ele-
are examples of colonial furniture and the room used by Pedro Domingo
gant rooftop restaurant that serves excellent Lake Titicaca salmon trout, Bolivian
Murillo.
dishes-try fricasse if interested in something spicy. In basement, Bolivar Travel
Farther up the street is the gold museum that houses pre-Columbian
offers friendly service, and Millma sells excellent handicrafts, sweaters, and weav-
ings.
gold and silver ornamentations, Inca and pre-Inca ceramics, and a descrip-
Hotel La Paz (formerly Sheraton), Av. Arce (356-950). 345 rooms, offering a
tion of Indian metallurgy.
panoramic view of the city and the surrounding Andes mountains. Good for large
Next to the museum is the Museo Litoral that houses documents, photo-
conventions, conferences. Has an indoor pool, sauna, exercise room. Ten-minute
graphs, and paintings relating to the 1867 War of the Pacific when Bolivia
walking distance from Prado. La Lana located on the main floor offers export quali-
lost its outlet to the sea. Bolivia is likely never to forget this loss and stages
ty Alpaca sweaters that cost 3 to 4 times as much in New York.
marches, commemorative events, and international appeals in an effort to
Expensive
recover access to the Pacific.
Hotel Gloria, Calle Potosí (370010). 79 rooms. Only a block from the San Fran-
At the end of the Calle Jaen is the Museo Costumbrista, an elegant colo-
cisco Church, this hotel offers good accommodations and a rooftop restaurant.
nial-style structure exhibiting ceramic figures representing historical
Hotel Libertador, Calle Obispo Cárdenas (343363). 53 rooms. Five-minute walk
events and local customs. In one case is the Indian guerrilla leader Tupac
from the Prado, on a side street.
Katari, who was quartered by the Spanish in 1781 near La Paz. Other
Moderate
displays show the lynching of Murillo in 1810 and the traditional festivities
Copacabana, Av. 16 de Julio (352-242). Located on the Prado, across from the
of San Juan, when tens of thousands of fires and fireworks displays light
Plaza. 64 rooms.
up La Paz on what is said to be the coldest night of the year, June 23.
Crillon, Plaza Isabel La Catolica (352-121). 70 rooms. Five minutes by taxi from
Several cases show popular drinking places, markets, dances, and outings
the center. Once the city's old world hotel.
dating to the time when La Paz was a provincial city of less than fifty thou-
Eldorado, Av. Villazon (363-403). 64 rooms. Located across from the university.
sand inhabitants. You'll learn that the first auto made it across the Andes
Sucre, Av. 16 de Julio (355-080). Located on the Prado. Large rooms, snack
in 1913 and that by 1919 trolleys crisscrossed the city.
shop, and restaurant.
A visit to La Paz would not be complete without a visit to a peña, where
Inexpensive
folkloric groups perform first-rate Andean music for tourists and local res-
Alem, Calle Sagárnaga 334 (367400). Next to Hotel Sagárnaga, near peñas and
idents. Worth visiting are Pena Naira, Calle Sagarnaga No. 161, Pena
handicraft shops. Very near San Francisco Church.
Marko Tambo on the Calle Jaen, La Casa Del Corregidor, Calle Murillo
España, Av. 6 de Agosto 2074 (354643). 30 rooms. A block down the university
No. 1040, El Guitarrón, Calle Chuquisaca corner Unión, and Cactus, Av.
and a couple of blocks from El Prado. Price includes breakfast.
Manco Kapac half a block from Plaza Eguino. Admission costs about five
Sagárnaga, Calle Sagárnaga 326 (358757). 35 rooms. A few steps from Bolivian
dollars, and they all offer restaurant service. Penas begin after 9. in the
handicraft shops and from several peñas. Very near San Francisco Church.
evening and last until past midnight. Be sure to bring a sweater along since
RESTAURANTS. For definitions of price categories, see "Facts at Your Finger-
after the sun sets the night air becomes brisk. Reservations are recom-
tips."
mended.
La Carreta, expensive, Calle Batallon Colorado # 32 (355891), offers good
On a clear night, as you walk back to your hotel or if you head to the
steaks. Hotel Plaza offers a cafeteria, the rooftop restaurant Utama (expensive), and
Monticulo Park in Sopocachi, you'll see the moon hovering over the eter-
the elegant Arcon de Oro (deluxe). Good Bolivian food, especially fricasse, sajta
nal snows of the Illimani. The entire canyon up to where it meets the Alti-
de pollo and saice, and lake trout served at the Utama (378311). La Suize, expensive,
132
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
133
Avenida Arce (across the street from the Sheraton), has excellent beef and fondue
Fremen Tours, across from Cine 6 de Agosto, Av. Arce, offers river excursions
as well as Swiss specialities. Serves lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommend-
and tours in the Highlands and tropics. Turismo Ensueno, Ed. Ballivian, Calle Mer-
ed (353150). For some of the best beef dishes in town, try the Churrasqueria El
cado, has good service.
Paititi Tours, Av. Arce 2630 (329625 and 353558). Offers excellent organized
Arriero, Casa Argentina, Av. 6 de Agosto 2535. Refugio Restaurant, expensive,
adventure tours in the Andes, the Altiplano, the jungle, and the valleys. Fully
Calle 20 de Octubre and Plaza Abaroa (355-651). El Yotala, moderate, Calle San-
equipped trekking, mountain climbing, boat and jeep trips.
chez Lima between Guachalla and R. Gutierrez (341897), serves good spicy Sucre
Gaviota Tours, Calle Loayza, Castilla building (351596). Trips to Tiwanacu,
fare, including ckocko, fritanga, and saice. The German club, expensive, behind the
Lake Titikaka, Chacaltaya, Yungas, Oruro, and other Bolivian Departments.
Hotel Plaza, offers Continental food. Giorgissimos, expensive, Calle Loayza near
Gacela Tours, Hotel Crillon (352121). Arranges tickets and organizes tours to
corner with Camacho (324456) has good Bolivian and beef dishes. El International,
Tarabuco, Tihuanacu, Lake Titikaka, Yungas, and Chacaltaya.
inexpensive, at Calle Ayacucho 206, offers daily fixed menus. Restaurante Monaco,
Diana Tours, Calle Sagárnaga 328 (358757). City tours, trips to Tiwanaku, Lake
Av. Villazon 1958 (365-014), has a fixed menu and a la carte meals. For take-out
Titikaka, Moon Valley, Chacaltaya, Yungas, Zongo, Puno, Cusco.
snacks such as humintas-corn and cheese wrapped in husks and cunape-cheese
pastries-we recommend Don Julio's, just below Plaza de Estudiante. Cafe La Paz,
MUSEUMS AND CULTURAL CENTERS. Most museums are open Mon.-Fri.,
inexpensive, at Calle Camacho and Ayacucho, has excellent coffee as well as break-
9 A.M.-noon, 2-6 P.M. Sat. and Sun. 9 A.M.-noon. Call ahead to confirm hours.
fast and tea pastries. For saltenas, try Super Saltenas, Sanchez Lima and Plaza
Museo Costumbrista, Plaza Riosinio at the end of Calle Jaen. Miniature scenes
Abaroa; El Arabesque, Loayza and Juan de La Riva; and the Hotel Plaza snack
of old La Paz.
shop. Cafeteria Verona, moderate, Colon corner with Mariscal Ayacucho, for
Museo Pedro Domingo Murillo, Calle Jaen. Exhibits masks, weavings, miniature
meals, snacks, and fixed menu lunches. Quick, inexpensive, on Plaza Isabel La Ca-
handicrafts, silverware, etc.
tolica, has the best hamburgers in town. Stefanos, moderate, Aspiazu corner 20
Museo Nacional de Arte, Plaza Murillo across the street from the Cathedral.
de Octubre, has good pizzas and homemade pastas. Pizzeria Morelo, moderate,
Fine collection of colonial paintings and contemporary art.
Edificio Santa Teresa, across from the Sheraton (360671), has good pizzas. Califor-
Museo Tiwanaku, Pasaje Tiwanaku behind the Hotel Plaza. This recently re-
nia Donuts, moderate, Av. Camacho 1248, good doughnuts, hamburgers, and
stored museum exhibits priceless pre-Columbian artifacts.
snacks. Charlie's, expensive, Plaza Isabel La Catolica, excellent shrimp stew and
Museo de Etnografia y Folklore, Calle Ingavi 916. Permanent exhibit on Chi-
other dishes. Mocambo, expensive, Av. Arce, excellent Spanish food. La Dolce Vita,
paya and Ayoreo Cultures.
expensive, Calle Strongest good Italian food. Pronto, expensive, Calle Jauregui 2248
Museo del Oro, Calle Jaen. Exquisite collection of pre-Columbian gold, silver,
(one block from Hotel La Paz) good homemade pastas. Luigi's Pizza, Av. 20 de
and ceramic artifacts.
Octubre, best pizzas. Café Bonn-Bonn, Av. Sanchez Lima 2191, great European
Goethe Institute, Aven. 6 de Agosto (374 453). Cultural programs, lectures, con-
pastries.
certs on Bolivian and West German subjects. German library.
Centro Boliviano Americano, Parque Zenon Iturralde (342 582). U.S. and Bolivi-
USEFUL ADDRESSES AND NUMBERS. Police, 110; Bus station, 353510,
an cultural programs, films, and concerts. Library with U.S. periodicals and books.
352510; Airport information, 810 122; Central train station, 353510; Long distance
Alianza Francesa, Calle Guachalla, corner 20 de Octubre and coffee shop
calls, 356700; General Hospital, 376 192.
Tourist Information Center: Mariscal Ballivián Building, 18th floor, on Mercado
(325022). Bolivian and French cultural programs.
Galeria Emusa, El Prado, 1607 (328931). Best art gallery in town.
between Loayza and Colón.
Teatro Municipal. Calle Sanjines, corner with Indaburo. Concerts and theater.
Medical and dental care: house calls are made in Bolivia. Dr. Ciro Portugal, Ed
Casa de la Cultura. Plaza Perez Velasco. Art exhibits, cultural programs, and
Mariscal Ayacucho (360 393). Dr. Ovidio Suarez, gynecologist (351501). Dr. Esper-
concerts.
anza Aid U.S.-trained dentist speaks English (320081). Clinica Alemana, 6 de Agos-
Galeria Arkani, Calle Belisario Salinas. First-rate art exhibits and framing cen-
to. The Methodist Hospital on Calle Obrajes 12 (783511).
ter.
Exchange houses: Sudamer, Calle Colón 256; América Ltda., Av. Camacho
1233; Cáceres Ltda., Calle Potosí, Hotel Gloria; D'Argent, Ed. Ballivian, Calle Mer-
SHOPPING. For visitors interested in handicrafts, silver and gold jewelry, and
cado (across from Amigos del Libro); Colle Tobias, Calle Socabaya (across from
fine alpaca ware, La Paz is the place to shop. Galeria Millma in the Hotel Plaza
Ministry of Labor).
offers beautiful Indian weavings, wall hangings, natural dyed alpaca and cotton
Mail, telephone, and telex: Central mail office, Calle Potosí corner with Ayacu-
sweaters, scarves, and ponchos. It is run by two Americans who are authors of two
cho. ENTEL, the national telecommunications company, is located on Calle Aya-
books on Bolivian weavings. They make most of their alpaca and cotton goods at
cucho between Mercado and Camacho. Offers long-distance telephone, telegram,
a workshop located two blocks away on the Calle 20 de Octubre 1824 and a store
and telex service. Hotel offers same services and mail service. For additional infor-
on Calle Sagarnaga 225. The woolens can also be purchased through the Peruvian
mation, dial 104.
Connection catalog. Adam, on Av. 6 de Agosto 2135, sells alpaca and cotton sweat-
TOURS. Crillon Tours, Ave. Camacho 1223 (320222). Runs hydrofoil service
ers for all kinds of tastes. Another fine store: El Huso, at two locations, El Prado
on Lake Titicaca from Huatajata to Tiquina, Sun Island, Copacabana, and July
1615, and Av. 6 de Agosto corner of Pedro Salazar. El Antiquario, 1615 el. Prado.
(Peru), connecting with further transportation to Puno and Cuzco. Crillon Tours
Algo Mas, 1615 El Prado, sells the best Bolivian handicrafts. Artensanias Bolivi-
also offers a comfortable hotel and museum about the people who inhabit Lake Titi-
anas, Av. Arce (across from Hotel La Paz) sells good, quality handicrafts and al-
caca at Huatajata.
paca dresses. On the Calle Sagarnaga, Galeria San Francisco next to the church
Balsa Tours, Ave. 16 de Julio on the Prado (356566).
of the same name offers a wide selection of antiques, alpaca goods, weavings, and
Transturin, Calle Camacho (363654). Offers bus and boat service to Puno with
old coins. Punchay Artesanias, Calle Santa Cruz 156, belongs to a group of musi-
connections to Cusco.
cians. They sell music, weavings, and alpaca sweaters. Schohaus, at Calle Colon
Bolivar Travel, basement of the Hotel Plaza (350 145). Tawa tours, Calle Sa-
260 (just below the U.S. embassy), offers elegant pewter. Good silver and pewter
garnaga, above Pena and restaurant Naira (329814), offers adventure and trekking
ware at the Edificio Mariscal Ayacucho, Calle Loayza, and Kings in the Hotel
tours in the Andes and tropics, where they have their own camps.
Sucre. Chocoholics should be sure to try the Breick bitter, milk, or milk chocolate
Club Andino Boliviano, Calle Mexico 1638 Casilla 5879 (365 Offers guided
sold throughout the city-real chocolate flavor that beats Hershey's. Good choco-
trips to Chacaltaya ski slopes as well as trekking and mountaineering information.
late can also be found at Clavel's on the Prado.
For a guide to climb the Andes, contact Bernardo Guarachi, a veteran climber who
Film and processing. Slide and black and white film costs 3 to 4 times more than
in New York. Fuji and Kodak print film can be bought at bargain prices at the
speaks German.
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Miamicito-the city's black market. Foto Linares, Calle Loayza corner with Juan
Located four hours by bus from La Paz or three by private vehicle, Sora-
de la Riva, offers color processing and a good selection of photo supplies and equip-
ta has two comfortable places to stay. The Hotel Prefectural offers private
ment. Best service in town. Casa Kavlin, Potosi 1130, sells film and does color pro-
rooms with bathrooms and hot showers, a swimming pool, and a view of
cessing. Casa Capri, corner of Colon and Mariscal Santa Cruz, processes print film.
Kodachrome film cannot be processed in South America. Rolando Calle, at casa
the Illampu. To capture a bit of the historic flavor of Sorata, you can stay
Fuji, Calle Potosi, repairs most camera equipment; open mornings.
at the Hostal Casa Gunther, the former residence of a German merchant
who became wealthy trading in gold and selling imported crystals, fabrics,
NIGHTLIFE. Nightclubs: Onix, Av. 6 de Agosto 299 (342787). Lively and
and household goods to wealthy gold miners who passed through Sorata
crowded disco. Pacha, Av. 6 de Agosto, Santa Teresa building (350745). Baccara,
en route to La Paz. The hostal offers large bedrooms, clean communal
Av. 20 de Octubre 1822 (324039). Chelzy, Av. 20 de Octubre 2072. Forum, Calle
hot showers and bathrooms, and a lovely garden of palm trees and flowers.
Victor Sanjines, corner Ricardo Mujia. La Mansion, Av. Ballivian (Calacoto).
They also serve upon request a breakfast which includes homemade jams,
Bars and Pubs: Matheus, on Calle Guachalla corner of Av. 6 de Agosto. Jazz
and a hearty lunch and dinner. For more information on Casa Gunther
and nice pub setting. Horno Bar, Av. 20 de Octubre 2072. Jazz, cozy atmosphere.
and Hotel Prefectural, check with travel agencies.
Juan Sebastian Bar, Calle Ecuador 2620. Rancho Suizo, Calle Aspiazu (above Calle
Residents of Sorata make some charming stuffed dolls, wall hangings,
Ecuador). Grammofon Bar Lírico, Calle Belisario Salinas 536.
Peñas: Bolivian folklore for visitors and locals. All offer restaurant service.
and dresses from handwoven wool. These can be found on the main square
Naira, Calle Sagárnaga 161 (350530). Marka Tambo, Calle Jaén 710 (340416). La
by asking for Senorita Diana or Artesanias Sorata.
Casa del Corregidor, Calle Murillo 1040 (363633). El Guitarrón, Calle Chuquisaca
Sorata is the starting point for climbing the Illampu. For the daring,
corner Unión (368050). Kutimuy, Calle Murillo 947 (352351). Los Escudos, Av.
there is an Inca trail that begins near Sorata, crosses the Andes, and drops
Mariscal Santa Cruz corner with Calle Ayacucho (322028). Cactus, Av. Manco
to the tropical gold mining region of Tipuani. Over a four-day trek you
Kapac, half a block from Plaza Eguino.
will travel from snow to jungle on a stone-paved Inca highway that crosses
crystal-clear mountain streams and lagoons. This trail has been used since
the time of the Incas to carry gold, coca leaves, and other products to the
highlands. On the trail you are likely to encounter herds of llamas or mules
EXCURSIONS FROM LA PAZ
taking potatoes, corn, and other goods to the tropics. For the trip it is nec-
essary to take a sleeping bag, tent, and food supplies, including coca leaves
to chew along the way.
Tiwanacu
Lake Titicaca
Bolivia's most important archaeological sight, Tiwanacu, is located fifty
miles to the west of La Paz. It was once the center of one of the most an-
If you did not arrive via Lake Titicaca, a trip there is a must. A paved
cient cultures in the Americas. Its monumental stone figures, stone court-
road will take you to the lake, past farming villages and farms where rows
yard, and sun gate give a glimpse of a civilization that mysteriously sur-
of potatoes, barley, fava beans, and quinua are grown. During the October
faced around 600 B.C. and disappeared around A.D. 1200. Now located
through December planting season a visitor will see Indians using teams
twenty miles from Lake Titicaca, it is believed to have once been near the
of oxen to plow the fields, much as their ancestors did.
shores of the lake.
An hour-and-a-half after leaving La Paz, you will reach the 13,000-foot-
There are no guides available at the site, so it is best to take one of the
high waters of Lake Titicaca. Totora reed and wooden boats used for fish-
many tours provided by travel agencies in La Paz.
ing or travel are visible from the shore. In Huatajata you can rent a boat
The most imposing monument is the Gate of the Sun, which is thought
and visit Suriki or other islands. Four residents of Suriki built the "Ra
to be a solar calendar. It is part of an elaborate observatory and courtyard
Two" for the Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl. Two of the builders
that contain monoliths, the door of the Puma, and a subterranean temple.
have a small souvenir shop in Suriki, an island famous for its totora reed
It lacks the sheer splendor of Machu Picchu, but provides a glimpse into
boats and furniture.
the ancestry of the Aymara people, many of whom still inhabit the area.
If you enjoy seafood you can eat some delicious salmon trout at the Inti
Raimi restaurant in Huatajata or at the Hotel Titicaca, which also offers
Sorata
comfortable accommodations and is located between the village of
Huarina and Huatajata. Reservations for Hotel Titicaca can be made at
Legend has it that this charming valley town was the site of the biblical
the Hotel Libertador in La Paz (355080). In Huatajata, Crillon Tours also
Garden of Eden. The perpetually snow-covered, 22,000-foot-high Illampu
offers a first-class hotel, Inca Utama, and has a sunset to sunrise excursion
Mountain looms over Sorata and the surrounding corn, potato, and wheat
on the Sacred Lake. Reservations can be made at Av. Camacho 1223, tel.
fields. The town, once a flourishing commercial center and the gateway
372970.
to the gold mining region of Tipuani and Mapiri, is laid out in the classic
Lake Titicaca sprawls for some 3,500 square miles and forms part of
Spanish design, with two well-kept parks and a grid pattern of narrow,
the boundary between Bolivia and Peru. The Islands of the Sun and Moon
cobblestoned streets. Two streams carrying the melt-off from Illampu meet
also hold an important place in the history of the Inca civilization. The
below the village. Sorata, located at 2,450 meters above sea level, is in the
Island of the Sun has the remains of Inca palaces, gardens, and temples.
temperate zone and is an ideal place to visit for a weekend. During the
The Island of the Moon offers a look at the remains of the Temple of the
December to March rainy season it may rain for an hour or two, but nor-
Moon and a great view of the Andes.
mally it is sunny. The remains of elegant estates that once housed rich
If you continue past Huatajata, you will reach the Tiquina crossing.
landowners or gold miners still exist near Sorata.
Cars, buses, and trucks are loaded on wooden barges and ferried across
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Check with the tourist office on hours when visits to Portales and Pairu-
Restaurante Taquina. Moderate. At the brewery of the same name. An hour trip
mani can be made.
toward the mountains, this restaurant with a view of the Cochabamba Valley is
Fifteen minutes after leaving Cochabamba you will encounter dairy
open weekends. It serves good beef, lamb, and duck dishes. Their beer is first rate.
farms and villages with centuries-old homes.
If you have a day to spare, hire a car and head out to the Valle Alto.
TOURIST INFORMATION. Tourist information center on Plaza 14 de Septiem-
Twenty minutes out of Cochabamba on the road to Santa Cruz, veer to
bre, in the Prefectura building (23364). Maps of the city and a guidebook sold at
Amigos del Libro, Av. Heroines 3712.
the right by the Angustura dam. In another thirty minutes you'll reach
Travel agencies in town include: Exprinter, Plaza 14 de Septiembre; Gitano
Tarata, an old village with adobe homes and overhanging balconies that
Tours, Calle Ayacucho (29570); Delicias Tours, Av. Heroínas; Carve Tours, Av.
has changed very little in recent decades. In December there is a colorful
Heroínas; Taus, Calle General Achá; Viajes Fremen, Calle 25 de Mayo.
feast with dancers using masks from La Diablada. Check with the Cocha-
bamba tourist office for feast dates. Instead of veering right at the dam,
MUSEUMS. Not to be missed is the Archaeological Museum located at the end
you can also head out to Cliza, Punata; and Arani. These villages are also
of Calle Calama. There are over 25,000 pieces on exhibit.
served by buses that leave from Av. San Martin, near the railway station.
The market in Cliza is on Sunday, in Punata on Tuesdays. The Valle Alto
SHOPPING. Adam is an association sheltering the four main artisan organiza-
tions in Cochabamba that deal in alpaca products. More than 3,000 artisans, most
is famous for its pottery and dairy products. Small white flags that hang
of them farmers, belong to this association. In its sales room, on Calle Jordán 0148,
in front of adobe homes indicate the sale of chicha, a fermented corn brew.
you can buy sweaters, scarves, tapestries, rugs, ponchos, and ornaments. Amerindia,
For camping, hiking, and fishing, a visit to Mount Tunari is recom-
Av. San Martín 6064, offers hand knitted alpaca goods, coats made of alpaca materi-
mended. It is thirty-eight miles from Cochabamba on the road to
al, alpaca wool, wool rugs and tapestries, wood carvings, handbags, and leather
Morachata-Independencia. The climate is cold but the scenery is spectacu-
goods. Fotrama, Av. Heroinas near the post office, sells some of the finest alpaca
lar.
items in Bolivia. Andea, Calle Calama, offers alpaca goods and makes the thickest
Another farming village worth visiting is Quillacollo, located only eight
and finest alpaca rugs in Bolivia. Near the railway station is a sprawling black mar-
ket that sells electronic gadgets, film, cameras, and clothing. Best to go on Wed.
miles from Cochabamba. The Sunday market is very colorful.
or Sat. You can find Kodak and Fuji film for two dollars a roll, video cameras,
If interested in Inca ruins, a weekend trip to Incallajta is a must. A four-
tape recorders, etc. Facing the railway station is a market that offers fruits, vegetà-
wheel-drive vehicle is needed to reach these ruins, which are located seven-
bles, handicrafts, handwoven wool blankets, alpaca sweaters, and other goods. Be
ty-five miles from Cochabamba on the road to Santa Cruz. It is recom-
sure to bargain the prices down.
mended that you take along a guide who knows the road. Two temples
and several dwellings remain at Incallajta. Be sure to bring food and warm
ORURO
clothing.
HOTELS. Hotel Terminal, at the bus terminal (53209), moderate. The best hotel
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR COCHABAMBA
in town. Hotel Prefectural, Calle Aldana (60588), moderate. Run by the govern-
ment. For inexpensive lodging, Hotel Lipton, Av. 6 de Agosto corner Rodríguez
HOTELS. Hotel Portales, Cochabamba, and Ambassador are the best.
(41583); Hotel Repostero, Calle Sucre; and Hostal Osber, Calle Murguía.
Gran Hotel Cochabamba. Expensive. On the Plaza Ubaldo Anza, better known
as the Recoleta (43300). Offers a swimming pool, tennis courts, lovely gardens, and
one of the finest restaurants in Bolivia.
Hotel Portales. Expensive. Av. Pando 1271 (43159, 45269) 120 beds. A brand
SUCRE
new hotel with swimming pool, suites with Jacuzzis, and two restaurants (tel.
43159, 45269).
Hotel Ambassador. Moderate to Expensive. Calle España (48777). 105 rooms.
On the cathedral towers of the city of Sucre, sixteen life-size statues keep
Considered one of the best in the city. Located three blocks from Plaza 14 de Sep-
watch. Twelve of them are the Apostles, and the four figures closest to
tiembre.
Moderately priced hotels include: Hotel Boston, Calle 25 de Mayo (28530); Hotel
heaven are, of course, the Saints of Sucre. So runs the story of the Cathe-
Colón, Plaza Colón (48101); Hotel Emperador, Calle Colombia (27638); Hotel Las
dral statues, as told by the residents of this colonial city of 86,000 inhabi-
Vegas, Calle Esteban Arce (29217).
tants located 420 miles from La Paz. Sucrenses have always held a special
Inexpensive hotels include: Hostal Claudia, Calle Hamiraya (47844); Hotel
view of themselves, and the city's colorful history has tended to reinforce
Gemas, Calle Nataniel Aguirre (27683); Hotel Venecia, Av. Aroma (26165); Resi-
it.
dencial Brasilia, Calle Brasil (22107); Residencial Buenos Aires, Calle 25 de Mayo
Sucre's colonial architecture and museums are a reminder of the history,
(29518); and Residencial Internacional, Calle Junín (48304).
culture, and tradition that have thrived in this 9,000-foot-high city and
influenced a wide region of southern America. Visitors can explore centu-
RESTAURANTS. Hotel Cochabamba restaurant, expensive. Best in town. Good
ries-old churches and museums that exhibit priceless colonial paintings,
menu selection.
furniture, and religious figures adorned with gold and jeweled garments.
Restaurant Victor, on the Prado, expensive. Good food but overpriced.
Casa de Campo. Half a block from Plaza de la Recoleta on Calle Aniceto Padilla.
And in March of every year, the traditional folklore of the surrounding
Moderate. Good Bolivian cuisine and barbeque.
Quechua inhabitants comes alive in Tarabuco with one of the most impor-
La Estancia. Half a block from Plaza de la Recoleta on Calle Aniceto Padilla.
tant indigenous festivals in Latin America.
Moderate. Excellent beef dishes.
A twenty-minute drive from the airport serviced by modern jets will
La Huella. Plaza Quintanilla. Moderate. Excellent barbeque.
take you to the city's heart, the Plaza 25 de Mayo. There, veterans of the
Parrillada La Senda. Calle Adela Zamudio 1783 (in the Cala Cala area). Moder-
1932 war with Paraguay spend their days seated on well-kept benches,
ate. Barbeque and different kinds of beef dishes.
watching a parade of students in white uniforms, Quechua peasants offer-
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ing their wares to tourists, shoeshine urchins, ice-cream vendors blowing
rich in symbolism, depicting mythical gods and Christian effigies. Only
their horns, and children playing on the bronze lions surrounding the
the sound of passing vehicles and a television tower on the Sica Sica moun-
monument to the great Latin American "Libertador" Antonio Jose de
tain that overlooks the city remind one of the present. The tourist bureau,
Sucre.
located four blocks from the Plaza on Calle Alberto No. 401, can arrange
Stately palm and ceibo trees which in August and September bloom
a tour between two and five P.M. if you wish to visit the roof and courtyards
with red "gallitos," or little roosters, shield the Plaza from the blazing
of San Felipe Neri Church. English-speaking guides are only available
midday sun that beats down except for brief periods during the November
through tourist agencies.
to February rainy season. The sidewalks, bordered by well-groomed trees,
If you return to the Plaza by the same street you will face the portals
are swept before dawn every day with palm branches by Quechua-speaking
of the baroque-style Cathedral, famous for a Virgin covered by a multimil-
men and women.
lion-dollar garment endowed with gold, diamonds, emeralds, and pearls
Sucre, founded by the Spaniard Pedro de Anzurez in 1538, is often
donated by wealthy residents during the colonial period, which dates from
called "La Ciudad Blanca" (the White City) for its cleanliness and for the
1538 to 1825, when the Republic of Bolivia was born.
houses and churches that are whitewashed every year by government
Adjacent to the Cathedral is a museum displaying colonial paintings,
edict, and is referred to as the "City of Four Names"-Charcas, Chuquisa-
volumes of parchment, and desks inlaid with mother-of-pearl. In the eigh-
ca, La Plata, and Sucre. The intellectual ferment that has characterized
teenth and nineteenth centuries musicians performed classical works com-
Sucre over the centuries comes alive every fall when students return to
posed by Creole artists trained by Spanish clergy. These musical manu-
study at a university founded twenty-four years before Harvard, in 1624.
scripts, preserved at the National Archives on the Calle Espana, have been
The University of San Xavier was the font of liberal ideas which gave birth
commercially recorded and bring to life once again the great cultural activ-
to the first cry of independence on the continent.
ity that once took place in Sucre.
After you check in at one of Sucre's four comfortable colonial-style hos-
A walking tour of Sucre would not be complete without the traditional
tels or the Hotel Municipal, head for the Plaza, where 1940 Buicks and
afternoon tea consisting of ice cream, fruit milk shakes, and pastries. On
Studebakers and modern Toyota taxis are available for a quick tour of the
the Plaza and side streets are several confiterias open for this occasion.
city at around four dollars an hour. Because of Sucre's small size, most
Be sure not to miss the delicious cuñapes, and cheese pastries served hot
points of interest are within walking distance from the center.
at the Confiteria Las Vegas on the Plaza.
Wherever you go, you will find that tradition is still an important part
If you are in the mood for something religiously sweet head up the Calle
of life here. Only three doors from the Plaza on the Calle España, Jaime
San Alberto until you reach Calle Camargo and the Santa Teresa Convent
Soliz still cuts hair with hand clippers and shaves with blades sharpened
whose nuns until recently spent their adult lives cloistered behind three-
on leather straps, much as his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather
foot-thick adobe walls. Between ten and twelve in the morning nuns and
did.
novices sell candied figs, oranges, apples, and limes, reciting "Ave María
Before making the rounds of museums and Roman Catholic churches
Purísima."
and monasteries, spend a few hours walking around to savor a bit of
Two blocks from the Plaza on the Calle Calvo you'll reach a small but
Sucre's past and its remains. Imagine a time when gilded horse-drawn car-
precious museum adjacent to the Convent of Santa Clara that was founded
riages trod through the city's cobblestoned streets carrying women dressed
in-1639. Ensconced within its thick adobe walls is a valuable collection
in the latest Parisian fashions, or a time when men in black velvet outfits
of the works of Melchor Perez Holguin, one of the three most important
tailored in Granada or Toledo, Spain, walked the streets followed by their
Latin American colonial painters, and his teacher the Italian paintor Ber-
indentured Quechua peasants. Or picture the Plaza before the 1952 revolu-
nardo Vitti. They also have on exhibit clerical silver and gold embroidered
tion that abolished peonage and ended the rule of the Tin Barons, when
garments, statuary, furniture, and other items. The museum is open from
life in the square reflected the social and professional divisions of the city.
10:00 to 11:30 A.M. and 3:00 to 5:30 P.M. If you're an early riser, you might
Progressives and students gathered on the far side of the Cathedral while
enjoy attending the 7:00 A.M. mass (8:00 A.M. on Sundays) that includes
doctors, lawyers, and businessmen sat shielded by palm trees opposite the
choral works sung by the Santa Clara nuns.
House of Liberty (Casa de la Libertad), where Bolivia was founded and
As dusk approaches, walk up from the Convent or Plaza toward the
the constitution drawn up. The local blue bloods, descendants of the Span-
eucalyptus-covered Churuquella mountain until you reach the Recoleta
ish and Creole aristocracy once enriched by the silver mines of Potosi or
Monastery founded in 1601 by the Franciscans. Paintings of religious fig-
by government posts, sat and conversed on benches lined up adjacent to
ures line the hallways around patios and lovely gardens with roses and
the Cathedral. Quechua-speaking peasants were relegated to the Plaza's
geraniums in bloom. An adjoining restored chapel still contains intricately
inner circles, unless they were servants attending the children of the well-
carved choir seats that once were occupied by Franciscan monks. The only
to-do.
two monks who remain offer tours between 10 A.M. and noon and from
Two blocks from the square on the Calle Nicolas Ortiz is the San Felipe
2 to 5 P.M.
Neri Church built in the seventeenth century. Its size testifies to the power
A square with a stone fountain and sun clock borders the monastery
the Roman Catholic church once held in Latin American society. The
and offers a view of the city, with its fifteen colonial churches, whitewashed
views from domed roofs and towers, made with bricks bonded with silver
homes, tiled roofs and parks surrounded by rolling farmlands and ragged
from the mining city of Potosi, afford a marvelous panorama of countless
mountain peaks that disappear into the horizon. At dusk, the horizon
churches, said to have numbered one to a block during the colonial period.
takes on hues of red, orange, and gray that disappear with the advent of
The extension of the graceful curves of ceramic roofs shield the tiny win-
darkness, leaving the city lighted by a canopy of stars.
dows and balconies from the summer rains and piercing winter sun. Porti-
In the early morning you will enjoy a pleasant and lively trip to the colo-
cos, balconies, and archways, visible in the corners of older buildings, are
nial-style market located two-and-a-half blocks from the Plaza. There,
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143
Quechua women are up before dawn arranging stalls of fresh vegetables,
fruits, and canned goods. They are protected from the morning chill by
Tarabuco
delicately woven capes with abstract animal designs. A dollar will buy you
fifty oranges-a great value if you can figure out what to do with them.
The most colorful side trip from Sucre is to the town of Tarabuco at
Vendors at a row of stalls serve fresh vegetables and fruit juices and steam-
a distance of sixty kilometers in the Yamparaez province. Its Sunday mar-
ing hot "api," a pungent brew of ground red corn, sugar, cinnamon, and
kets attract peasants from the region who are famous for their conquista-
lemon which goes well with freshly fried cheese pastries called "empana-
dor-style leather helmets and multicolored handwoven ponchos, "chus-
das." Be careful with eating unwashed fruits and vegetables, but hot drinks
pas" (bags for carrying coca leaves and money), "chumpis" (skirts), and
like api should give you no problem. A command of Spanish words would
musical instruments. The most popular is the "charango," a string instru-
help in bargaining with the vendors, but with prices so low all you will
ment whose back is formed by the carapace of the armadillo with hair
miss out on is some of the fun of shopping in a Latin American country.
that is said to grow even after the animal's death.
Sucre is best known for its colonial past. There are so many monuments
In March of every year, thousands of peasants from the area of Tarabu-
that remind one of its heritage that a selective list will have to suffice. A
co join tourists and Sucre residents in the celebration of the "Pujllay,"
or carnival, one of the best traditional festivals in Latin America. The
visit to the "Casa de la Libertad" on the Plaza is a must. This historical
event celebrates the Battle of Jumbate which took place on March 12,
museum houses documents and artifacts related to Bolivia's struggle for
1816, when the Indians of the area defeated the Spaniards. Area residents
independence. As you pass through heavy wooden doors and proceed
dancing to music played on the "charango," "zampoña," "tokoro,"
along the hall to the left you will reach a room where the August 6, 1825
"pinkillos," and bel-spurs; a lively mass sung in Quechua; and the linger-
Declaration of Independence is on exhibit. In another hall lined with
ing taste of spicy native dishes washed down with the corn brew known
carved pews the Declaration of Independence was signed. Depending on
as chicha make a visit to the Pujllay a must.
your time and interest you could spend hours examining the many docu-
ments and relics of Bolivia's turbulent past.
Monteagudo
The Caserón de la Capellanía, on Calle San Alberto near the corner of
Potosí, is Sucre's center for tourist development. In this seventeenth-
The road from Tarabuco winds southeast, toward valleys and moun-
century building you'll find art exhibitions, handicraft shops, workshops.
tains that gradually take on shades of green and a tropical air. Monteagu-
Tourist information is also available here.
do, an eight-hour bus ride in-good weather, is a region populated by the
The University Museum on Calle Bolívar 698 exhibits fine weavings,
Chiriguanos, a sub-group of the Guaranis who inhabit southern Bolivia
archaeological artifacts, and colonial paintings and furniture. You might
and Paraguay. Landslides and swollen rivers isolate the region from Sucre
find especially interesting three mummified bodies that were once buried
during the winter rainy season but in the dry season the frontier town of
in a chamber attached to the Santo Domingo chapel. Within hours after
Monteagudo is readily accessible. The area encompasses vast zones of
they were discovered in the late 1940s the city was rife with rumors of
semitropical virgin land that offer good fishing and adventure. After a few
bodies buried alive during the Inquisition and for days thousands stood
days in this tropical region one can appreciate the fact that years ago. Che
in line to view the well-preserved bodies of a couple and child. Local resi-
Guevara fought a losing guerrilla war not far from Monteagudo.
dents still talk of torture chambers and of adulterous women forced to
New hotels with private bathrooms and hot showers have opened up.
ride in the streets bare-chested on mules. According to Don Gunnar Men-
doza, the director of the National Archives, wealthy families often built
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR SUCRE
special altars inside churches and then sealed them off after burial.
HOTELS. Hotel Municipal. On Av. Venezuela 1050 (21074). Moderate to Ex-
pensive. Elegant hotel, offers comfortable rooms and swimming pool. Remodeled
EXCURSIONS FROM SUCRE
in 1985.
Several new hostels opened recently that cater to tourists and national visitors,
all at moderate prices: Hostal Colonial, on Plaza 25 de Mayo (24709); Hostal Li-
La Glorieta
bertad, Calle Arce 99 (23101); Hostal Sucre, Calle Bustillos 113 (21411); Hostal
Los Pinos, Calle Colón 502 (24403); and Hostal Cruz de Popayán, Calle Loa 881
A ten-minute ride toward the valley of La Florida will take you to "La
(31706). Hostels serve breakfast but usually not lunch or dinner.
Glorieta," a grandiose monument to Sucre's past. At the end of the nine-
For inexpensive lodging, Residencial Bolivia, Calle San Alberto 42 (24346); Resi-
teenth century, the wealthy industrialist Don Francisco Argandoña built
dencial Oriental, Calle San Alberto 43 (21644); and Residencial Bustillo, Calle Ra-
velo 158 (21560).
a miniature estate with Venetian-style canals, lovely gardens, and foun-
tains over which towered an exotic residential palace built in a conglomer-
RESTAURANTS. The best in town is El Solar, Moderate. Calle Bolivar 800
ation of Moorish, Spanish, and French architectural styles. Doña María
(24341). At this colonial-style restaurant you can dine on delicious, spicy Sucre
Clotilde Argandoña became known as "La Princesa de la Glorieta," a title
dishes or on more traditional fare. Be sure to try the singani, a fine grape-distilled
bestowed by the Pope-for a price-in recognition of her work with aban-
liqueur produced south of Sucre in Camargo or Tarija. The Plaza, moderate, over-
doned and orphaned children. Today, the canals are gone, the gardens are
looking the main square, offers continental and some local dishes. La Posta, at the
Hotel Municipal, moderate, offers continental and local dishes.
in ruins, and the grounds are occupied by army cadets. Even so, what re-
mains is a reminder of the vanished splendor of "La Glorieta" and its
TOURIST INFORMATION. Tourist information center at Caserón de la Capel-
epoch.
lanía, Calle San Alberto 413 (25994 and 25983). A visit to the San Felipe Neri
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145
Church can be arranged through them. University tourist office at Calle Nicolás
Ortiz 182 (23763).
Because of the altitude, it is advisable to take it easy the first day, before
Tour agencies include: Candelaria Tours, Calle Bolívar 634; Fremen, Plaza 25
making a round of museums, churches, mines, and outlying sights. A drive
de Mayo; Hidalgo Tours, Calle Bustillo 124; Solarsa Tours, Calle Arenales 212;
around Potosí by taxi (about two dollars an hour) is a good initial intro-
Teresita's Tours, Calle San Alberto 13; Turismo Balsa, Plaza 25 de Mayo.
duction, especially until one's system is better suited to the rarefied air.
You will frequent cobblestoned roads that once carried Spanish royalty
USEFUL NUMBERS. Police, 110; Bus Station, 22029; Train Station, 31115;
and that now barely allow passage of four-wheeled vehicles. Starting at
Airport information, 24445; Long distance calls, dial 105; Radio taxi, 32144 and
the Plaza facing the Cathedral you can head toward the mountain of Poto-
21509. ENTEL, the telecommunications office (long distance telephone, telex, and
sí, passing what is left of ninety-odd churches built three or four centuries
telegram service), at Calle España corner of Urcullo. Post Office at Calle Argentina
ago and, farther up, the scattered remains of colonial mining operations.
50. Car Rental, Rent a Car Sucre on Av. Hernando Siles 945.
The symmetrical lines of the Cerro Rico, crisscrossed by over 5,000 tun-
nels, disappear as one approaches, distorted by mounds of rocks and debris
CULTURAL ACTIVITIES. The Sucre and Tarabuco regions have a thriving in-
accumulated over centuries of mining.
digenous cultural life. On religious feast days processions pass through the streets
To the left of the Cerro Rico the road heads toward a chain of moun-
of Sucre. In Tarabuco, the Pujllay is one of the most colorful festivals in South
tains containing seven lagoons that date to the sixteenth or seventeenth
America. The U.S.- and West German-financed Centro Cultural Masis has been
researching and fomenting native cultural expressions in the Sucre and Tarabuco
centuries. Water channeled down the mountain once powered rustic silver
regions. At their center at the Calle Colon 138 (23403) you can purchase records
processing plants built by the Spaniards and their Indian and black slaves.
of their latest European tour and see a nice collection of native instruments.
Remains of these stone plants still dot the landscape.
A city of Potosí, with some 90,000 inhabitants, opens up below, bor-
SHOPPING. If you want to purchase weavings and handicrafts, you'll find a
dered by a chain of ocher-colored mountains that contain a few thermal
fine selection at the Sala Expo-Venta Artesanal in the Caserón de la Capellanía,
hot springs and legends of wealth, hardship, and intrigue linked to the
Calle San Alberto 413, at Artesanías Bolivia, Calle Argentina 31, and at Artesanías
rise and fall of the city.
Candelaria, Calle Bolívar 634. The best weavings originate in Potolo, Macha, Cal-
Despite the harsh climate, the residents are easygoing and very hospita-
cha, and Candelaria. Antiques at Anticuario de Fernando Linale, on Calle España
ble. Women wearing multilayered skirts and pilgrim-type hats can be seen
109, and at El Arcón, on Calle San Alberto 121. Traditional string instruments at
walking the streets or selling "tawa tawas chambergos" or "sopaipillas"-
Gerardo y José Patzi, on Calle Destacamento 130, 59 and Trifón Pimentel, on Calle
delicious sweet pastries typical of Potosí-for around twenty cents. Dur-
Junín, 1190. Sucre is also famous for its miniature dolls and fruit baskets made from
ing Corpus Christi the residents of the city, dressed in their best attire,
dough.
take part in a religious procession. The city streets are lined with women
vendors who sell these pastries. The treats are taken home and eaten in
the evening with hot chocolate.
It is advisable to drink plenty of "mate de coca" (coca tea) throughout
POTOSÍ
your stay to help fend off the effects of the altitude. It is from this leaf
that cocaine is made, but the leaf itself is harmless and a staple at any hotel.
In 1650, Potosí was the largest city in the Americans, with a population
After a relaxing first day and early retirement, the visitor should be in good
of 160,000, and one of the most important urban centers in the world, re-
shape to visit the Casa de la Moneda early in the morning. Just off the
Plaza 10 de Noviembre, a carved doorway that allowed a horse, mule, or
nowned for its silver mines, its magnificent colonial architecture, churches
llama to enter opens onto a courtyard where a stone water fountain and
glistening with gold, theaters that presented the best of European produc-
a colorful laughing mask built by a Frenchman can be seen. For around
tions, as well as for its extravagance and vice. In 1553, sixty-seven years
before the pilgrims' landing at Plymouth Rock, Potosí was decreed an Im-
fifteen cents a Spanish- or English-speaking guide-if you request one-
will give a three-hour tour of the Casa de la Moneda.
perial City by Charles V, King of Spain.
This museum, which takes up an entire city block, has walls that in some
Today, the echoes of its fabulous colonial past can still be seen in its
places are four feet thick. First built in 1572 and then rebuilt between 1753
churches, bearing elaborate baroque facades, private homes with wooden
and 1773, it was established to control the minting of the colonial wealth.
balconies looking over the narrow, winding streets, and a host of fine mu-
The sturdy yet graceful structure is of stone, wooden beams, brick, and
seums, among them the "Casa de la Moneda" that has served the Spanish
domed tiled roofs. One room contains eight-foot-high wooden gears and
Empire, as a mint, fortress, and prison since it was first built in 1572.
wheels once operated by Indian and black slaves and used for laminating
It is a city of contrasts. Some of the residents, dressed in fine, handwoven
silver ingots in the process of minting coins. Adjacent to this room are
wool garments, carry on the cultural traditions of their Quechua Indian
displayed the thousands of coins produced there for the Spanish crown
ancestors. Others, wearing modern clothing, are the Creole descendants
or for several Latin American nations.
of the Spanish and Indians who were drawn to the city by the silver mines.
The Casa de la Moneda also contains more than 100 colonial paintings
They can be seen mingling in the markets, attending mass in the baroque
and the works of the celebrated twentieth-century Bolivian painter Cecilio
churches, sitting in the city square, or walking the narrow streets of Potosí,
Guzman de Rojas. Also worth seeing is an archaeological and ethnograph-
bound by an understanding of the Quechua language but separated by
ic collection, sculptures, exquisite furniture, and historical artifacts.
class and cultural barriers.
A morning at the Casa de la Moneda should test anybody's stamina.
Nestled at the foot of the Cerro Rico (rich mountain) on a 14,000-foot-
A coca followed by lunch is advisable. The best place to eat in Potosí is
high plateau surrounded by mountains and valleys that are part of the
El Mesón, across from the Cathedral on the corner of Calle Tarija and
Andes' eastern edge, Potosí is a must on your visit to Bolivia.
Linares, which offers steaks, soups, and tasty local dishes such as fritanga
146
SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
147
and asado borracho. If you plan on spending two or three days in Potosí,
Bolivia and, according to weaving experts, in the world. Unfortunately,
ask them to specially prepare a traditional and delicious peasant dish
the finest examples have been exported abroad, and what is now available
called "kala purka," a hearty corn soup served in a ceramic bowl with
is not equal.
a steaming-hot volcanic stone in the middle that cooks the soup. Also try
The narrow Quijarro street a block from the market that leads to the
the ckocko, a spicy chicken dish served with olives and native corn. For
Plaza was designed with bends to break the impact of wind gusts. There
a little over two dollars for most dishes, you should be able to enjoy a deli-
are several hatmakers on this quaint old street, among them Antonio Villa
cious lunch in a quiet colonial-style ambience.
Chauarría, house number 1141, who carries on a tradition that is slowly
A siesta is a custom still enjoyed by many. Since most stores and busi-
disappearing. During the day, though, with the sun shining, it's a pleasant
nesses remain closed until 2:30 or 3 P.M., you won't miss much if you take
walk back to the Plaza and to the Santa Teresa Convent located three
a brief nap.
blocks down from the Plaza on the Calle Chichas. It is only open from
An afternoon visit could include a trip to the market on the Calle Bolí-
4 to 6 P.M., so you must plan your visit well since it is one of the important
var, where you'll be surprised to see a wide variety of tropical fruits that
museums in Potosí. A donation of around ten cents is requested for a tour
appear out of place at 15,000 feet above sea level.
that takes about an hour.
There are regions in the department of Potosí that produce grapes,
After entering the thick wooden doorway of the Santa Teresa Convent,
peaches, and apples. Oranges and bananas are brought by truck from La
the present will seem centuries away. The small museum within the con-
Paz or from the south of Sucre. Much of the produce sold at the market
vent belongs tò an order of cloistered nuns and contains a fine collection
comes from surrounding valleys inhabited by Quechua Indians.
of colonial paintings, altars, and furniture.
Near the entrance to the market on Calle Oruro are several stands that
An old wooden turnstile near the entrance is still intact, used since the
sell elegant local handcrafted silverware. For about ten dollars you can
seventeenth century by nuns to keep their faces safely protected from male
purchase a lovely sugar bowl or a set of serving utensils. You might also
visitors. If a male had to enter for any reason, the nuns vanished to a sec-
find of interest some silver pins made from spoons called "topos." They
ond courtyard, out of sight and sound of the intruders. Even today, if you
are still used to fasten the traditional handwoven shawls used by the Que-
go there for a tour or to purchase the delicious milk, coconut, and peanut
chua-speaking women of the region. Silverware and pewter are also a real
candies on sale for about two dollars a pound, you'll only get to hear their
bargain.
prayers and voices.
Silver was the raison d'etre for Potosí, and the residents did not hesitate
This museum offers an interesting, if somewhat morbid, view of a reli-
to make use of it. The sinks and pitchers in the bathrooms of some homes
gious life-style that to some extent has adapted itself to the contemporary
were made from sterling silver. One old-timer recalls attending elegant
world. In one room are displayed sharp, star-shaped iron instruments used
banquets where the food was served on silver platters and on imported
to inflict pain on the penitent nuns. One blouse is embroidered with wire
ceramic trays. Some homes were furnished with Persian rugs and English
mesh that has sharp prongs sticking out against the flesh. The fact that
and French pieces that were transported across the Andes from the coastal
they are now museum items indicates, no doubt, that they are no longer
city of Arica by mule or llama. When the silk or flannel clothing of the
of use, although one nun recalled using the artifacts a number of years
well-to-do was soiled, it was simply (or so it seemed) transported by mule
ago. The same room has leather containers used for transporting sugar
or llama back across the Andes and the ocean to France where it was ex-
from the Santa Cruz region of Bolivia and for storing grains and dry goods.
pertly dry-cleaned.
Adjacent to this room is the dining room, with a main table that con-
It is said that all the silver mined here could have paved a road from
tains a skeleton resting on a bowl of ashes, a reminder that "ashes to ashes,
Potosí to Spain. It is not known exactly how much silver was extracted
we will become." It does not make for the most appetizing place to drop
from the Cerro Rico, but it was enough to fill the coffers of the Spanish
in for lunch.
crown and provide the flowering of painting, music, architecture, and liter-
In the choir room you'll find gold and silver embroidered garments used
ature in Potosí, Sucre, and the surrounding regions of South America. By
by the priests, and beneath the wooden floorboards dozens of nuns have
the nineteenth century, however, Potosí was in decline as the silver veins
been buried. Even in death they were kept isolated from men.
became exhausted, leaving only museums and buildings as reminders of
Other rooms contain a valuable collection of colonial paintings, particu-
the past.
larly those by Melchor Pérez Holguín, one of three major Latin American
Behind the market is the Church of San Lorenzo, which offers some
colonial painters, and gold-leafed altars that were donated by wealthy resi-
of the finest examples of baroque carvings in Potosí, if not in all of South
dents.
America. Elaborate arrangements of flowers, garlands, and mythical and
Once you're used to the climate you may want to visit the mines. You
indigenous figures are represented on high relief stone carvings made by
can either hire a private taxi or catch the number 5, 7, A, or K buses at
Indian artisans. Even though it is closed to the public except for special
the Plaza early in the morning (check with the tourist office for exact time).
occasions, it is worth seeing the church's exterior. To get into the court-
After paying about five cents, you will join hundreds of miners as they
yard that faces the church you might have to pay the attendant a few pesos.
head up the Cerro Rico to begin the 8 A.M. work shift.
Four blocks from the imposing San Lorenzo church, on the corner of
After leaving the center of town, the buses start climbing the Cerro
Calle Sucre and Modesto Omiste, a collection of handmade weavings,
Rico, passing caves and remnants of excavations that began in the six-
belts, ponchos, silverware, and antiques is for sale. The quality ranges from
teenth century and that are still sifted through by independent miners or
not very good to first-rate, so you have to shop around to make sure you
women. The mountain, resembling a giant anthill, has also served as a
get what you want. For anywhere from twenty to fifty dollars you can
tomb for hundreds of thousands of miners.
purchase lovely weavings that may each take as long as six months to
In the late sixteenth century, the great Inca chieftain, Huainca Capac,
make. The department of Potosí produces some of the finest weavings in
ruler of an empire that spread 2,000 miles from Quito, Ecuador, to Chile,
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SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
149
visited the mountain of Potosí and ordered that silver found within be
Santa Cruz, the capital of the rich department of the same name; was
made into jewels for his court. But just as his workers were beginning to
founded in 1561 by the Spanish Captain Nuflo de Chavez. Since the de-
mine the valuable veins of silver, they heard a thunderous voice that said
partment of Santa Cruz borders Brazil on the east, there is a strong Brazil-
in Quechua: "Do not dig, it is not meant for you; God has saved it for
ian presence in the area, especially during Carnival. Beautiful women
others." And so it was that shortly thereafter the first contingent of Span-
wearing elaborate costumes that are often similar to those seen in the Rio
ish explorers arrived in this desolate and cold region of Bolivia and estab-
de Janeiro Carnival parade through the streets in à orgy of music, dancing,
lished the first Spanish settlement at the foot of Cerro Rico in Potosi. They
and drinking. The weekend after Carnival, women with their identities
set in motion a stampede of Spanish adventurers that forever altered the
concealed behind masks frequent the city's nightclubs, picking who to
landscape of the region. The Quechua-speaking descendants of Huainca
dance and have a good time with. It is the day women get back at their
Capac were uprooted from their lands, enslaved, and put to work mining
unfaithful husbands.
the silver.
Cruceños, as residents of Santa Cruz are called, are easygoing and
In less than twenty minutes, the buses will reach Pailabiri, the principal
friendly. Short sleeves, miniskirts, and sandals are the norm due to the
mining encampment on the mountain. After paying a one dollar entrance
tropical climate. In the evenings or when cold fronts hit the area, a sweater
fee at the office of the "superintendencia" to the right of the main entrance
might be necessary. Outdoor restaurants and nightclubs are popular, the
to the camp, you will be given protective headgear, boots, and lamps. At
nightlife is exciting, and the hotel accommodations are among the best
8:30 in the morning you will enter the mine on an electric-powered wagon.
in Bolivia.
You'll have a chance to walk through dark and humid tunnels and descend
A modern airport inaugurated in 1985 now links Santa Cruz with neigh-
via elevators into mine shafts where the miners work almost naked because
boring countries and other Bolivian cities. There are several flights a day
of the intense heat. With the silver reserves almost exhausted, tin has be-
connecting Santa Cruz with Cochabamba and La Paz as well as regular
come the principal mineral extracted from the mine.
service to Trinidad and Sucre. The road between Cochabamba and Santa
The miners you encounter will be chewing the coca leaf to fend off hun-
Cruz is often in terrible condition, so it is best to fly.
ger and exhaustion. A few leaves are also deposited on altars in the name
Worth visiting is the Santa Cruz zoo, which has a fine selection of native
of the goddess of the earth, the "Pacha Mama," the "Tio" or "Supay,"
animals and birds in a nicely-designed setting. One should also stop in at
the devil responsible for keeping the miners safe-or in peril. The famous
the Basílica Menor de San Lorenzo on the main square. The present-day
carnival festival of Oruro that takes places in February or March of every
structure was built between 1845 and 1915 on the ruins of a seventeenth-
year centers around the figure of the Tio or Supay, who is the basis for
century cathedral. The Cathedral Museum housed in the Basílica has an
a rich and colorful folkloric tradition that is a mixture of Quechua and
interesting collection of religious objects, sculptures, paintings, and silver
Christian religious beliefs.
work; many of the items are as much as four centuries old.
A week before carnival, a centuries-old ritual is repeated in the mines,
On the main square next to City Hall is the Casa de la Cultura Raul
when a llama is sacrificed and its blood sprinkled throughout the entrance.
Otero Reich. It has cultural exhibits and a permanent show of area handi-
This is supposed to evict evil spirits and assure that a rich silver vein will
crafts. If interested in art, be sure to ask for the works of the painter Kura-
be found.
moto (one of the country's best) and sculptor Marcelo Callau.
The area around Santa Cruz is a real paradise for hunting and fishing,
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR POTOSÍ
as well as photographic safaris. Check with the tourist information center
for arrangements.
HOW TO GET THERE. Rail and bus lines offer regular connections from La
Paz and Sucre, and thus a chance to see some of Bolivia's varied mountain scenery.
The slow journey by land (5 hours from Sucre and 12 from La Paz) also gives the
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR SANTA CRUZ
visitor a chance to get accustomed to the high altitude.
HOTELS. La Quinta, deluxe (42244). Located in a residential neighborhood on
HOTELS. Several good hostels with private baths have opened in the last few
Calle Aruma, Barrio Urbari. Offers apartments with private baths, kitchens, restau-
years. Best is Hostal Colonial, inexpensive, located a five-minute walk from the Casa
rant, and swimming pool. Great for families. Los Tajibos, deluxe (30022). Located
de la Moneda and main square (24265).
a ten-minute ride from downtown on Av. San Martín. Offers beautiful swimming
pool, gardens, tennis courts, and large, comfortable rooms. Gran Cortez, moderate
to expensive (31234). Good, friendly service and comfortable rooms. Swimming
pool. Hotel Las Palmas, moderate to expensive (30366). Modern, with swimming
pool. Hostal Cañoto, moderate (31052). On Calle Florida. Hotel Tropical Inn, mod-
SANTA CRUZ
erate (46666). On Calle España. Hotel Bolivia, inexpensive (36292). On Calle Li-
bertad. Hotel Colonial, inexpensive. (33156). On Calle Buenos Aires.
Twenty years ago oxen pulled carts through the mud streets of Santa
RESTAURANTS. Domenicos, expensive, Av. San Martin, Centro Comercial el
Cruz de la Sierra. In the rainy season, city streets were covered with mud.
Chuubi (49616). Offers international cuisine in an elegant setting. El Arriero, mod-
Only the Plaza was paved. Today, Santa Cruz, at an altitude of 1,460 feet
erate, Av. Cristobal de Mendoza (49315) and a branch at Av. San Martin Equi-
above sea level, has boomed to become a thriving metropolis of at least
petrol. Offers excellent Argentine beef. Brazzery la Boheme, moderate, Calle Rene
320,000 people and the vanguard of Bolivia's economic expansion. Mod-
Moreno 56 (33245) offers French and German food. Floresca, Av. Velard, moder-
ate, corner of Irala (24453) international cuisine. La Empalizada, moderate, Barrio
ern office buildings exist side by side with adobe homes with curved tiled
Cooper 3, specializes in grills. Excellent food. Los Patos, moderate, located at Km
roofs. The city has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years
2 on highway to Cochabamba (22373). Good duck and beef dishes. Don Miguel,
perhaps unlike any other Latin American city.
moderate, on Av. Uruguay, has some of the best beef in town. Restaurant Nagasaki,
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SOUTH AMERICA
BOLIVIA
151
moderate, Calle Ingavi 290 (40238), serves Japanese and continental cuisine. La
which separates the region from La Paz and the Bolivian highlands.
Pascana, open-air snack-shop on the main square. La Buena Mesa, moderate, Cris-
Today, regular flights and a road usable only during the dry season are
tobal de Mendoza 583 (31284), has good beef dishes. El Carruaje, moderate, Av.
opening up the area to tens of thousands of highland settlers.
Mutualista next to Grigota movie theater, good service. El Boliche Creperia, mod-
erate, one block from the plaza, has excellent crêpes. La Cascada, moderate, across
from the bus terminal, offers good beef dishes.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR TRINIDAD
TOURIST INFORMATION. Tourist information center at Calle René Moreno
HOTELS. Hotel Ganadero, moderate-expensive (21099). This is a modern hotel
215, corner with Suárez de Figueroa (48644). Travel agencies include: Condor
with a rooftop pool and a view of the tropical city of Trinidad and outlying low-
S.R.L., Plaza 24 de Septiembre: Sudamer Tours, Plaza 24 de Septiembre; Tajibos
lands. Also recommended in La Poza del Bato, a motel-type lodging near the city
Tours, Hotel Los Tajibos. Hunting, fishing and safari trips organized at El Aven-
square. For inexpensive lodging, Hotel Avenida, Av. 6 de Agosto (20044); Hotel
turero, on Calle Libertad 360 (26763).
Bajío, Calle Nicolás Suárez (20203); and Hotel Monte Verde, Av. 6 de Agosto 725
(22750):
SHOPPING. Santa Cruz artisans produce fine handicrafts in wood, ceramics,
leather, cotton and straw. Try shopping at Artesanía Boliviana, Calle Ballivián 17;
RESTAURANTS. Hotel Ganadero offers restaurant (Continental menu) and bar
Artesanía Inka Products, Av. Cañoto corner of Landivar; Artesanía Mon-Atelier,
service. Restaurant Carlitos, Plaza Ballivián; the Club Social restaurant, Plaza Bal-
Calle René Moreno 18; and Artesanías Nacionales, Calle Sucre 40.
livián; and Fonda Colonial, on Av. 6 de Agosto, all offer varied menus. Excellent
Beni beef at El Canchón de Mamita, Av. Sucre; El Compadre, Calle Calama; Pacu-
NIGHTLIFE. Mau Mau, open only during Carnival. Twelve thousand spectators
muto, Calle Nicolás Suárez; and La Estancia, Av. Pedro Muiba. Excellent fresh
gather for the queen's coronation and shows: Calle 21 de Mayo corner with Andres
fish and rustic outdoor restaurants can be found on the Mamoré river banks, a few
Ibanes (21867 or 31687). For a drink, Doña Icha, bar, on Calle René Moreno 230.
miles from the city. Check with the tourist information center.
La Cueva del Ratón, Calle Velasco y La Riva, a hangout for youths. Tiberio, Calle
Independencia y La Riva, luxury bar. Paladium, piano bar and dancing, on Av.
TOURIST INFORMATION. Prefectural building on Plaza José Ballivián.
Monseñor Santistevan 180. Mauna Loa, 3r anillo, entre Av. Paraguazy y Av. Mutu-
alista, for an elegant variety show.
RADIO TAXIS. Cañoto (51320) or Taxi amarillo (33333) have a fleet of taxis.
TRINIDAD AND THE BENI DEPARTMENT
Trinidad, a tropical city of 40,000 established by the Jesuits in the late
seventeenth century, is what Santa Cruz was like twenty years ago. Most
of the streets are still unpaved, and horses and carts are still a favorite
way to travel.
Traditionally, Trinidad has been the center of Bolivia's cattle industry.
Cattle were introduced by the Jesuits in 1675. Horses followed, and beni-
anos, as residents of the Beni are known, became expert horsemen. The
Beni is largely made up of fertile grasslands that provide a natural breeding
ground for cattle. In recent years farmers using the latest in agricultural
technology have diversified into rice farming. Beef is flown from the Beni
to La Paz and mining centers on World War II vintage planes. Pilots who
fly across the Andes-often without radar-are considered among the
best-if not the craziest-in the world.
In many regions of the Beni, indigenous native groups survive as farm-
ers, ranch hands, and artisans. Yucca, rice, bananas, cotton, and sweet
potatoes are the most popular crops in the Beni.
Trinidad and the Beni are worth visiting if you are interested in adven-
ture and a change of pace. While Trinidad has excellent hotel accommoda-
tions, the rest of the Beni department lacks modern-day comforts-save
for some exceptions. Rurrenabaque, for example, is a small village at the
western end of the Beni department. Recently the five-star Tacuara Hostel
has been opened: ideal for its excellent accommodations and beautiful sur-
roundings.
The Beni elite used to send their children to study in Brazil and Europe.
Area residents identified more with Brazil and Europe due to the Andes,