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The original documents are located in Box 2, folder "1976/06/24 - Gown Presentation,
Smithsonian Institution" of the Frances K. Pullen Papers at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential
Library.
Copyright Notice
The copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of
photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material. Gerald Ford donated to the United
States of America his copyrights in all of his unpublished writings in National Archives collections.
Works prepared by U.S. Government employees as part of their official duties are in the public
domain. The copyrights to materials written by other individuals or organizations are presumed to
remain with them. If you think any of the information displayed in the PDF is subject to a valid
copyright claim, please contact the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.
Betty Ford in the gown going to the Smith-
sonian's First Ladies Hall, photographed at the
May, 1975, White House State Dinner the
Fords gave for the Shah of Iran.
Cut Out
For History
By Nina S. Hyde
A green chiffon gown
Mrs. Ford, like other First
owned by Mrs. Gerald Ford
Ladies, received a letter
will be added to the First
from the Smithsonian re-
Ladies Hall in the Smithso-
nian Institution's Museum
questing a gown shortly af.
of History and Technology
ter she moved into the
next week.
White House. Mrs. Ford de-
Chosen because it is one of
cided to make her donation
Mrs. Ford's favorite colors
now so it can be installed
(soft green) and cuts
before the July 4 peak tour-
(princess with a stand-
ist weekend.
up neckline), the gown was
For two months the cen-
worn to the White House
tral exhibits division of the
State Dinner for the Shah of
Smithsonian has been devel
Iran in May, 1975, and on
oping a mannequin to
other occasions.- Designed
"wear" Mrs. Ford's gown.
and made for Betty Ford by
Created from measurements
Frankie Welch of Alexan-
provided by the White
dria, the gown is sequined
House and working with a
chiffon, chosen to simulate
muslin of the dress, the
fabric Mrs. Ford brought
mannequin will be the same
home from China.
physical size as Mrs. Ford,
The First Ladies Hall. a
but will have the same clas-
popular visitors! attraction,
sical face of all the other
is also the most popular COS-
figures in the exhibits
tume collection in the coun-
Mrs. Ford's hairstyle and
try.
shoes have been sculpted
"It shares the glamour
and painted onto the manne-
that surrounds the position
quin. No other accessories
of the First Lady. It is a
will be shown since Mrs.
very personal glimpse of the
Ford did not carry a bag
First Lady," said Margaret
when she wore the dress.
Klapthor; curator of the di-
Often thought to be a col-
vision of political history at
lection of inaugural ball
the Smithsonian "That is
gowns worn by First Ladies,
why it is not in the division
less than half of the dresses
of costume and textiles, but
in the hall were, in fact,
in the political history sec-
worn to inaugural balls, ac-
COMMUNITY INSTRUCTION
WASHINGTON.DC
The Board of Regents
The Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution
and
The Director of the
National Museum of History and Technology
request the honor of your presence
at the presentation of
A Ball Gown
by
Mrs. Gerald R. Ford
to the Collection of the Dresses of the First Ladies
Thursday afternoon, June the twenty-fourth
Nineteen hundred and seventy-six
at three o'clock
in the First Ladies Hall
National Museum of History and Technology
Constitution Avenue at Fourteenth Street, Northwest
Washington City
Please present this card
THE FIRST LADIES HALL
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
ADVUNT
THE FIRST LADIES HALL
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
HEFOR EDGE THE
PER
SMITHSONIAN PUBLICATION 4640
WASHINGTON, D.C.
1965
THE STORY OF THE FIRST LADIES HALL
The First Ladies Hall in the Museum of History and Tech-
ground and furnishings typical of a certain period or of a single
nology, Smithsonian Institution, displays a collection of Dresses
administration within a period. Changing styles in White House
of the First Ladies of the White House that shows the changes in
decoration are shown in these settings, which are based wherever
American period costume from the administration of President
possible on written descriptions and pictorial evidence of the
Washington to the present day. The first dress received for the
White House.
collection was the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft,
Also on display in the First Ladies Hall is the most complete
then First Lady, who presented it to the National Museum in 1912.
collection of White House china outside the Executive Mansion.
Following the example of Mrs. Taft, each subsequent First Lady
This collection includes pieces of table service used in every admin-
has given a dress.
istration from the time of George Washington to the present.
The collection contains a dress representing the administration
of every President of the United States. When circumstances did
not permit the President's wife to act in the official capacity of
hostess of the White House, a relative or family friend usually
performed the social duties of the position.
The dresses are exhibited on plaster mannequins. The faces
are all sculptured from the same model, but the coiffure of each
lady has been copied from a picture or portrait to give individuality
to the figures. Inaugural gowns are designated on the individual
labels.
The collection is installed in period settings that display the
The text of this booklet was prepared by Margaret W. Brown
dresses in the type of surroundings in which they were originally
Klapthor, associate curator of political history, U. S. National
worn. In creating these settings, the Museum has, wherever pos-
Museum. Additional copies, priced at 50 cents, may be obtained
sible, used actual architectural details and furniture and fixtures
from the Editorial and Publications Division, Smithsonian
associated with the White House or the representative First Ladies.
Mary Todd Lincoln's gold bracelet
Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560.
Since each setting contains dresses representing a span of several
watch with cover of blue enamel
administrations, it has been necessary to select a style of back-
and chip diamonds.
1787-1809
WASHINGTON
ADAMS
JEFFERSON
To the left as you enter the First Ladies Hall is a room
To the right of the entrance doorway directly across from the
setting that presents Martha Washington seated beside her
drawing room setting of Washington's High Street residence
tea table in the second-floor drawing room of the Executive
in Philadelphia there is depicted a bedroom from the same house.
Mansion at 190 High Street in Philadelphia, the city that was
This room setting is presented to show some of the great variety
the capital of the United States from 1790 to 1800. The room
of President and Mrs. Washington's household furnishings now
is arranged with furniture and accessories that belonged to Presi-
in the collections of the National Museum. The most important
dent and Mrs. Washington and were used by them at Mount
pieces are the handsome Chippendale bed, which dominates
Vernon and at their various Presidential residences.
the room, and the wing chair that was in President Washington's
The mantelpiece is a replica of the drawing room mantel
bedroom at Mount Vernon. The fine Oriental export porcelain
in the Philadelphia house, and the rug with the Great Seal
water bottle and bowl and the dressing mirror also are from
of the United States was actually used in that residence. The
Mount Vernon. George Washington used the brass candlestick
furniture, silver Argand lamps, porcelains, silver, glass, mirror,
for illumination while drafting his Farewell Address to the
and oil painting were all owned by President and Mrs. Washing-
Nation.
ton. Most of these items are from the collection of Washington
Just inside a case on the wall beside the wing chair is a
relics purchased by the U. S. Government from the heirs of
pair of miniature portraits in oil of George and Martha Wash-
Nelly Custis Lewis in 1883.
ington painted by the American artist John Trumbull. The
In this setting are displayed gowns that belonged to Martha
engraved portrait of the Countess of Huntington on the back
Washington, to Abigail Adams, and to Martha Jefferson Ran-
wall is one that she personally sent to George Washington.
dolph, the daughter of President Jefferson. The dresses are
The woodwork used in the room setting is from a 1790 house
representative of the late 18th century.
in Kutztown, Pennsylvania.
At lower left on this page is shown
a cup and saucer of Martha Wash-
ington's "States" china. Names of
the fifteen States in 1796 appear
on the rims.
1809-1829
MADISON
MONROE
ADAMS
This setting represents a portion of a music room in the
Displayed in the room are dresses worn by (from right to
White House as it might have looked during the administra-
left) Dolley Payne Madison; Elizabeth Kortright Monroe; Maria
tion of President John Quincy Adams. A portrait of Mrs.
Monroe Gouverneur, who lived at the White House with her
Adams, by Charles Bird King, hangs to the left of the window.
parents and was married there in 1820; and Louisa Johnson
Mrs. Adams' harp, music stand, and books are in the room.
Adams. The Dolley Madison dress is the one she wore at the
These furnishings, as well as the handsome brocatelle curtains,
New Year's Day reception in 1816. Mrs. Benjamin Crownin-
are from the large Adams-Clement collection of relics from
shield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, left a contemporary
the John Adams and John Quincy Adams families. The piano,
account of the dress as "yellow satin embroidered all over with
made by Alpheus Babcock of Boston, is believed to have been
sprigs of butterflies, not two alike in the dress."
used in the White House during the administration of Presi-
dent John Quincy Adams. The label on the piano case is one
of the kind used by Babcock between 1822 and 1829.
Purple-bordered dessert plate of
china of President James Monroe.
Vignettes represent commerce, agri-
culture, art, science, and welfare.
1829-1845
JACKSON
VAN BUREN
HARRISON TYLER
The setting for this period presents a reception room as it
might have looked in the White House during the adminis-
tration of President Martin Van Buren. The wallpaper was
inspired by a contemporary description of a White House room
that told of "white paper sprinkled with gold stars and a gilt
border." The silk Oriental rug was a gift to President Van
Buren from the Imam of Muscat. The eagle-back side chair
was also in the White House during this period. Other fur-
niture and decorative accessories in the room are of a type that
was popular in this country in the early 19th century.
The dresses shown (from right to left) are those worn by Emily
Cup and saucer of gray, gold, and
Donelson, Mrs. Jackson's niece, and by Sarah Yorke Jackson,
white china brought to the White
wife of the President's adopted son, both of whom served as
House by Angelica Singleton Van
White House hostesses during the Jackson administration; An-
Buren during the administration of
gelica Van Buren; Jane Irwin Findlay, hostess for President
her father-in-law, President Martin
William Henry Harrison; and Julia Gardiner Tyler, second wife
Van Buren.
of President Tyler.
The dresses and the decor represent a transition from the Em-
pire to the Victorian styles. The dress of Emily Donelson is the
earliest inaugural gown in the collection.
1845-1869
POLK
TAYLOR
FILLMORE
PIERCE
BUCHANAN
LINCOLN
JOHNSON
The mid-19th century is represented by a Victorian parlor
the White House was being renovated during the administration
reminiscent of a White House room of the period. The wallpaper
of President Harry Truman. The white marble mantel was orig-
was reproduced from a small piece of original White House paper
inally installed during the administration of President Franklin
found under several layers of plaster and paneling secured while
Pierce. The richly carved, laminated rosewood furniture was
made by John Henry Belter, a cabinetmaker in New York City
from 1844 to 1863. The silver service on the table belonged to
Mrs. Lincoln.
Displayed in this setting are the dresses worn by Sarah
Childress Polk (at far right) ; Betty Taylor Bliss (at right of win-
dow), daughter of President Taylor; Abigail Powers Fillmore
(at left of window) ; Jane Appleton Pierce; Harriet Lane (in
front of mantel), niece of President Buchanan; Mary Todd
Lincoln (at left of table) ; and Martha Johnson Patterson, daugh-
Green-bordered dessert plate from
ter of President Andrew Johnson. This was the era of the hoop
the state china of President James
skirt in American period costume.
K. Polk.
100
THE
1869-1893
GRANT
HAYES
GARFIELD
ARTHUR
CLEVELAND
HARRISON
This setting shows the Blue Room as it looked during the ad-
ministration of President Ulysses S. Grant. Contemporary photo-
graphs show black and gold borders on the walls, similar to the
ones in this setting. The black marble mantel was installed in the
White House during President Grant's administration, but not in
the Blue Room. The gold furniture in the setting was purchased
for the Blue Room during President James Buchanan's adminis-
tration and was used in that room until 1902. The rug is an
adaptation of one shown in the earliest photographs of the Blue
Room. A portrait of President Grant by William Cogswell hangs
over the mantel. The cloisonné vases on the mantel were gifts
received by the Grants during their round-the-world tour.
In this setting (from right to left) are dresses of Julia Dent
Grant; Lucy Webb Hayes; Lucretia Rudolph Garfield; Mary Ar-
thur McElroy, sister of President Arthur; Rose Elizabeth Cleve-
land, sister of President Cleveland; and Caroline Scott Harrison
and her daughter Mary Harrison McKee representing the admin-
Plate from the service of Limoges
istration of President Benjamin Harrison. The lavish decorations
china made for use in the White
of the room and the heavily embroidered and beaded dresses
House during the administration of
characterize this period of the bustle.
President Benjamin Harrison.
a
WI
1893-1921
CLEVELAND
McKINLEY
ROOSEVELT
TAFT
WILSON
By the end of the 19th century, the Blue Room had been re-
Exhibited in this setting (from left to right) are the dresses of
decorated in a robin's-egg blue, and the style of decoration had
Frances Folsom Cleveland, Ida Saxton McKinley, Edith Kermit
changed to the more sophisticated elegance depicted in this setting.
Roosevelt, Helen Herron Taft, Ellen Axson Wilson, and Edith
The gold furniture purchased in 1859 was still in use, but up-
Bolling Wilson. The beautiful fabrics and elaborate styling of
holstery fabric had been changed to match the new color. A con-
the inaugural ball gowns of Mrs. McKinley, Mrs. Roosevelt, and
temporary photograph shows that the door was hung with a cur-
Mrs. Taft are worthy of special attention.
tain draped in the manner shown in the setting. The two eagle-
The dresses worn by the first Mrs. Wilson and the second Mrs.
design glass globes on the front branches of the gas chandelier
Wilson are representative of the transition period between the
were used in the White House during this period.
stylized fashions of the 19th century and the more fluid lines of
the 20th century.
Cut crystal water bottle in the "Rus-
sian" pattern from the state crystal
service cut for the administration of
President Theodore Roosevelt. This
pattern had been in use in the
White House since the administra-
tion of President Grover Cleveland.
to
1111
GOOD
JOY
FORD
-
1921-1965
HARDING
COOLIDGE
HOOVER
ROOSEVELT
TRUMAN
EISENHOWER
KENNEDY
JOHNSON
The last setting in the series, shown on the cover of this
The dresses of Florence Kling Harding (at far right in the
book, presents the East Room as it has looked during the 20th
cover photograph) and Grace Goodhue Coolidge are typical of
century. The wood paneling and pilasters, the two marble man-
the flapper fashions worn in the 1920's. Bringing the fashions of
tels, and one of the gold mirror frames were actually used in the
our First Ladies up to the present day are the dresses of Lou
East Room from the time of the restoration of the White House
Henry Hoover, Eleanor Roosevelt, Bess Wallace Truman, Mamie
in 1902 during the administration of President Theodore Roose-
Doud Eisenhower, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, and Claudia
velt until the renovation made during the administration of
(Lady Bird) Taylor Johnson.
President Truman.
The gold Steinway grand piano, given to the White House in
1903, was used in the East Room until the administration of
President Franklin D. Roosevelt. The gold furniture, used in the
East Room during the administration of President Herbert
Hoover, was retired to the National Museum in 1937.
Service plate from the state china
used in the White House from
President Woodrow Wilson's ad-
ministration to President Herbert
Hoover's administration.
PROPOSED REMARKS--Des Presentation, Smithsonian Institute,
June 24, 1976
Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to have one of my favorite
dresses in this very special collection. When I brought
visitors to this Hall, never in my wildest dreams did I
expect to ever be here myself.
I've often heard children in the hall point and ask:
who is that lady? That's the way I feel today. Surely,
the answer isn't Betty Ford. It's going to take a while to
get used to the idea I could come over to the Smithsonian
and see myself. I'm very thrilled.
Like SO many Americans, I've been educated and enter-
tained by the many wonders of the Smithsonian. I just want
to say thanks to all who work so hard to keep the Smithsonian
such a fascinating and growing treasure house. You really
are doing a fabulous job, and I'm very honored to become
part of the Institute.
#
#
#
Proposed Remarks, Dress Presentation, Smithsonian Institute,
June 24, 1976
Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my
favorite dresses to this very special collection. When
I brought visitors to the First Ladies Hall, never in
my wildest dreams did I expect to be here myself.
I've often heard a child point and ask: who is
that lady? That's the way I feel today, and surely
the answer isn't Betty Ford.
Me
in a museum. I'm
amazed. It's going to take me a while to get use to
the idea I would come over and see myself.
XM8WXWJXXMX
I want to thank Cengratulate ml all of you who work so hard to
keep the Smithsonian so exciting, I
entertaining and educat you really are
know how many hours of education and entertaindmnt
This marvelous complex entertains and educates visitors
doing a fabulous job
from all over the world, and I'm very thrilled to be
part of America's treasure house.
Thank you.
Proposed Remarks, First Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976
Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my
favorite dresses to this collection. Through the years,
I've brought many visitors to the First Ladies Hall.
Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think one of
my dresses would be here. This is an honor I never
expected, and standing here today
I still feel surprised to be part
of this Smithsonian exhibit. It's really quite a strange
feeling, but a thrill.
-0-
First Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976
Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one
of my favorite dresses to this marvelous collection.
Through the years, I've brought many visitors
to the First Ladies Hall. I can just imagine how
surprised I would have been at the idea of I would
someday be part of this collection. I certainly
never dreamed I would ever be First
Lady, and standing here today I feel just a little
a
awed at becoming part of *** Smithsonian exhibit.
-0-
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
NSTITUTION
THE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
The Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is
one of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and
Technology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's
with Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited
citizens of Washington, D.C. The first dress received for the collection
was the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft, the presiding First
Lady, who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their
descendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses
were soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a
dress representing the administration of every past President of the
United States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each
First Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves
are exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces
are all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied
from a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting
appearance to the entire group.
The collection is installed in a series of eight period settings
that give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of
surroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains
dresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles
in White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are
shown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the
White House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen-
tation of the changes in American period costume from the administration
of President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it
is of great interest to students of costume design.
The collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted
as hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives.
It was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances
did not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that
a relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President.
There are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were
not available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later
administrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.
Leaflet 73-3
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DESCRIPTION OF LADIES REPRESENTED IN OUR COLLECTION OF DRESSES
OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
NAME
HEIGHT OF MANNEQUIN
HAIR
EYES
Martha Washington
5' 5 1/2"
Brown
Hazel
Abigail Smith Adams
5' 3 1/2"
Dark Brown
Dark Brown
Martha Jefferson Randolph
5' 6"
Chestnut
Blue
Dolley Madison
5' 7"
Black
Blue
Elizabeth K. Monroe
5'41/2"
Black
Blue
Maria Monroe Gouverneur
5' 1 1/2"
Brown
Blue
Louisa Catherine Adams
5'61/2"
Brown
Dark
Emily Donelson
5' 4 1/2"
Auburn
Brown
Sarah Yorke Jackson
5'
Black
Dark Brown
Sarah Angelica Van Buren
5' 9"
Dark Brown
Dark Brown
Jane Irwin Findlay
5' 41/2"
Gray
Brown
Julia Gardiner Tyler
5' 5 1/2"
Dark Black
Hazel Gray
Sarah Childress Polk
5'7"
Dark Black
Dark
Betty Taylor Bliss Dandridge
5'2"
Brown
Blue
Abigail Powers Fillmore
5' 4 1/2"
Auburn
Blue
Jane Appleton Pierce
5' 1"
Dark
Dark
Harriet Lane Johnston
5' 8"
Blonde
Dark Blue
Mary Todd Lincoln
5' 4 1/2"
Brown
Blue
Martha Johnson Patterson
5' 4 1/2"
Light Brown
Blue
Julia Dent Grant
5' 4 1/2"
Graying Brown
Hazel
Lucy Webb Hayes
5' 4 1/2"
Dark Black
Dark Brown
Lucretia Rudolph Garfield
5' 3 1/2"
Brown
Brown
Mary Arthur McElroy
5' 4 3/4"
Dark
Dark
Rose Elizabeth Cleveland
5' 3 1/2"
Dark Brown
Dark Brown
Caroline Scott Harrison
5' 3 1/2"
Gray
Hazel
Mary Harrison McKee
5'2"
Brown
Brown
Frances Folsom Cleveland
5' 6"
Brown
Blue
Ida Saxton McKinley
5'53/4"
Gray
Blue
Edith Carow Roosevelt
5' 8"
Brown
Gray
Helen Herron Taft
5' 7 1/8"
Graying Brown
Dark Blue
Ellen Axson Wilson
5' 6 1/2"
Golden Brown
Brown
Edith Bolling Wilson
5' 7"
Dark Brown
Dark Brown
Florence Kling Harding
5' 5 1/2"
Gray
Blue
Grace Goodhue Coolidge
5' 8"
Brown
Hazel
Lou Henry Hoover
5' 8"
Gray
Blue
Anna Eleanor Roosevelt
5' 9"
Brown
Blue
Bess Wallace Truman
5' 5 1/2"
Gray
Blue
Mamie Doud Eisenhower
5' 5"
Brown
Blue
Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy
5' 7"
Brown
Brown
Claudia Taylor Johnson
5' 6"
Dark Brown
Brown
Patricia Nixon
5' 6"
Blonde
Brown
Leaflet 73-4
Smithsonian Institution
FIRST LADIES
Presidents' Wives and Hostesses
of the
White House
#
Y s s
Photographic prints (8"x10" contact including
border) are available for $1.25 each. These reproductions
are the best available from the portraits in the Library's
collections. However, they vary considerably according
to the quality of the original.
Orders are subject to a minimum charge of $2.00,
with minimum postage fees of $.25 for orders of $10.00 or
less, and $1.00 for orders over $10.00.
Negative numbers and names should be given when
ordering prints. Single-weight glossy prints will be
furnished unless double-weight semi-matte prints are
specified. Address requests and make remittances payable to:
Chief, Photoduplication Service
Library of Congress
Washington, D. C. 20540
25-15g
5
10
15
20
25
30
4
6
14
19
24
29
3
8
13
18
23
28
2
7
12
17
22
27
1
6
II
16
21
26
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
REGALD
ADMINISTRATION
FIRST LADIES
NEGATIVE NUMBER
1. Washington
*Martha Dandridge (Custis) Washington
LC-USZ62-25767
2. John Adams
*Abigail Smith Adams
LC-USZ62-25768
- Jefferson
Martha Wayles (Skelton) Jefferson
No portrait known
3
Jefferson
Martha Jefferson Randolph
LC-USZ62-25769
-
Jefferson
Maria "Polly" Wayles Jefferson Eppes
No portrait known
4. Madison
*Dolley Payne (Todd) Madison
LC-USZ62-25770
5. Monroe
*Elizabeth Kortright Monroe
LC-USZ62-25771
6. Monroe
Eliza Monroe Hay
LC-USZ62-25819
7. John Q. Adams
*Louisa Catherine Johnson Adams
LC-USZ62-25772
8. Jackson
*Rachel Donelson (Robards) Jackson
LC-US262-25773
9. Jackson
Emily Tennessee Donelson
LC-USZ62-25774
10. Jackson
Sarah Yorke Jackson
LC-USZ62-25775
11. Van Buren
*Hannah Hoes Van Buren
LC-USZ62-25776
12. Van Buren
Angelica Singleton Van Buren
LC-USZ62-25777
13. W. H. Harrison
*Anna Tuthill Symmes Harrison
LC-USZ62-25820
- W. H. Harrison
Jane Irwin Harrison
D.A.R.,Vincennes,Ind
14. W. H. Harrison
Jane Irwin Findlay
LC-USZ62-25778
15. Tyler
*Letitia Christian Tyler
LC-USZ62-25779
16. Tyler
Priscilla Cooper Tyler
LC-USZ62-25780
17. Tyler
Letitia Tyler Semple
LC-USZ62-25818
18. Tyler
*Julia Gardiner Tyler
LC-USZ62-25781
19. Polk
*Sarah Childress Polk
LC-USZ62-25782
-
Taylor
Margaret Mackall Smith Taylor
Spurious portrait
20. Taylor
Mary Elizabeth "Betty" Taylor Bliss (Dandridge)
LC-USZ62-25783
21. Fillmore
*Abigail Powers Fillmore
LC-USZ62-25784
22. Fillmore
Mary Abigail Fillmore
LC-USZ62-25785
23. Fillmore
*Caroline Carmichael (McIntosh) Fillmore
LC-USZ62-25786
24. Pierce
*Jane Means Appleton Pierce
LC-USZ62-25787
- Pierce
Abby Kent Means
Not available
25. Buchanan
Harriet Lane (Johnston)
LC-USZ62-25788
26. Lincoln
*Mary Todd Lincoln
LC-USZ62-25789
27. A. Johnson
*Eliza McCardle Johnson
LC-USZ62-25821
28. A. Johnson
Martha Johnson Patterson
LC-USZ62-25790
29. Grant
*Julia Dent Grant
LC-USZ62-25791
30. Hayes
*Lucy Ware Webb Hayes
LC-USZ62-25792
31. Garfield
*Lucretia Rudolph Garfield
LC-USZ62-25793
32. Arthur
*Ellen Lewis Herndon Arthur
LC-USZ62-25794
33. Arthur
Mary Arthur McElroy
LC-USZ62-25795
34. Cleveland
Rose Elizabeth Cleveland
LC-USZ62-25796
35. Cleveland
*Frances Folsom Cleveland
LC-USZ62-25797
36. B. Harrison
*Caroline Lavinia Scott Harrison
LC-USZ62-25798
37. B. Harrison
Mary Scott Harrison McKee
LC-USZ62-25799
38. B. Harrison
*Mary Scott Lord (Dimmick) Harrison
LC-USZ62-25800
39. McKinley
*Ida Saxton McKinley
LC-USZ62-25801
40. T. R. Roosevelt
*Alice Hathaway Lee Roosevelt
LC-USZ62-25802
41. T. R. Roosevelt
*Edith Kermit Carow Roosevelt
LC-USZ62-25803
42. Taft
*Helen Herron Taft
LC-USZ62-25804
43. Taft
Helen Herron Taft (Manning)
LC-USZ62-25805
44. Wilson
*Ellen Louise Axson Wilson
LC-USZ62-25806
45. Wilson
Helen Woodrow Bones
LC-USZ62-25807
46. Wilson
Margaret Woodrow Wilson
LC-USZ62-25817
47. Wilson
*Edith Bolling (Galt) Wilson
LC-USZ62-25808
48. Harding
*Florence Kling (DeWolf) Harding
LC-USZ62-25809
49. Coolidge
*Grace Anna Goodhue Coolidge
LC-USZ62-25810
50. Hoover
*Lou Henry Hoover
LC-USZ62-25811
51. F. D. Roosevelt
*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt Roosevelt
LC-USZ62-25812
52. Truman
*Elizabeth "Bess" Virginia Wallace Truman
LC-USZ62-25813
53. Eisenhower
*Mary "Mamie" Geneva Doud Eisenhower
LC-USZ62-25814
54. Kennedy
*Jacqueline Lee Bouvier Kennedy
LC-USZ62-25815
55. L. B. Johnson
*Claudia Alta "Lady Bird" Taylor Johnson
LC-USZ62-25816
56. Nixon
*Patricia Ryan Nixon
LC-USZ62-35648
*Wife
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
U. S. National Museum
Department of Civil History
Washington, D. C. 20560
PHOTOGRAPHS OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Black and white, 8 by 10 inch photographic prints of First Ladies
of the White House, as listed below, may be purchased from the Smithsonian
Institution, Washington, D. C. 20560, at 90 per print. An additional
25 cents should be added to each order to cover cost of mailing and
handling. Please order by negative number and make remittance payable
to the Smithsonian Institution.
Martha Washington, wife of President George Washington, from
the oil portrait by John Trumbull
26483
Louisa Catherine Adams, wife of President John Quincy Adams,
from the oil portrait by Charles Bird King
41241
Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), family friend and
hostess for President William Henry Harrison, from
a daguerreotype
37320
Abigail Powers Fillmore, wife of President Millard Fillmore,
from a photograph contemporary with her stay in the
White House
41283
Harriet Lane Johnston, niece and First Lady for President
James Buchanan, from a miniature on ivory by
J. Henry Brown
676-A
Julia Dent Grant, wife of President Ulysses S. Grant, in a
family scene painted by William Cogswell
663
Rose Elizabeth Cleveland, sister of and White House hostess
for President Grover Cleveland during his bachelorhood,
from a contemporary photograph
43829
Photographs of First Ladies (Presidents' Wives and Hostesses of the
White House) may be obtained from the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.
For a list of the negative numbers and instructions for ordering write to
the Photoduplication Service, Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. 20540.
SIL-3 rev.
10/67
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D.C. 20560
72-2401
MARTHA CUSTIS WASHINGTON (Mrs. George Washington)
First Ledy, 1789-1797.
Dress made of salmon-pink ribbed silk with a handpainted
design of wild flowers and insects of North America.
Brown satin bag made and embroidered by Mrs. Washington.
72-2402
ABIGAIL SMITH ADAMS (Mrs. John Adams)
First Lady, 1797-1801.
Dark blue Canton crepe dress trimmed with a border of
Chinese embroidery. The brooch contains locks of the
hair of John Adams, Abigail Adams and their son John
Quincy Adams.
72-2403
MARTHA JEFFERSON RANDOLPH (Mrs. Thomas Mann Randolph)
Daughter of President Thomas Jefferson and First Lady,
1801-1809.
Black wool shawl with a paisley border. A dress worn by
Mrs. Randolph has not been located.
72-2404
DOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON (Mrs. James Madison)
First Lady, 1809-1817.
Yellow satin Empire style dress decorated with Chinese
embroidery of butterflies, insects and flowers. Worn
in 1816 to a New Year's Day reception at the White House.
The sandlewood fan belonged to Mrs. Madison and the turban
head-dress was & costume accessory characteristic of
Mrs. Madison.
72-2405
ELIZABETH KORTRIGHT MONROE (Mrs. James Monroe)
First Lady, 1817-1825.
Dress of the 18th century sacque style made of cream color
taffeta brocaded in a floral design and trimmed with Point
de Venise lace and fly fringe. A Watteau pleated back and
& matching underskirt complete the outfit. The topaz
necklace was purchased by President Monroe when he was
Minister to France.
GERALD ASVUSIT FORD
72-2406
MARIA MONROE GOUVERNEUR (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur)
Daughter of President James Monroe, 1817-1825.
Dress made in France of blue taffeta embroidered with
wheat straw.
72-2407
LOUISA CATHERINE ADAMS (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)
First Lady, 1825-1829.
Late Empire style dress made of white net over white
satin and trimmed with satin bows and silver braid. The
linen handkerchief belonged to Mrs. Adams.
72-2408
*EMILY DONELSON (Mrs. Andrew Jackson Donelson)
Niece of President Andrew Jackson and First Lady,
1829-1836.
Bodice from her Inaugural Ball gown made of gold satin
brocaded in rosebuds and violets. The skirt is a
restoration decorated with lace owned by the wife of
President Jackson.
72-2409
SARAH YORKE JACKSON (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.)
Wife of the adopted son of President Andrew Jackson
and First Lady, 1836-1837.
Wedding dress made of white satin and mull embroidered in
a white floral design.
72-2110
ANGELICA SINGLETON VAN BUREN (Mrs. Abram Van Buren)
Daughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren and
First Lady, 1837-1841.
Blue velvet dress owned by Mrs. Abram Van Buren. The
dress is exhibited with its original hoop foundation and
lace bertha.
72-2411
*JANE IRWIN FINDLAY (Mrs. James Findlay)
Mother-in-law of Mrs. William Henry Harrison Jr.
Family friend of President and Mrs. William Henry Harrison.
First Lady, 1841.
Inaugural Ball gown made of brown velvet with leg-of-mutton
sleeves.
* Denotes Inaugural Dresses
GERALD FORD
72-2412
JULIA GARDINER TYLER (Mrs. John Tyler)
Second wife of President John Tyler and First Lady,
1844-1845.
Dress made of sheer white mull embroidered with silver
thread and silk floss in a flower design in rainbow colors.
Worn in 1841 when Miss Gardiner was presented at the
Court of Louis Philippe of France.
72-2413
*SARAH CHILDRESS POLK (Mrs. James K. Polk)
First Lady, 1845-1849
Inaugural Ball gown made of blue ribbed silk brocaded in
a poinsettia design and trimmed with satin ribbons
and lace.
72-2414
BETTY TAYLOR BLISS DANDRIDGE (Mrs. Philip Dandridge)
Daughter of President Zachary Taylor and First Lady,
1849-1850.
Daytime dress made of greenish-brown grenadine with a plaid
border. This dress is the last in the collection to be
made entirely by hand.
72-2415
ABIGAIL POWERS FILLMORE (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)
First Lady, 1850-1853.
Lavender taffeta dress trimmed with matching flounce
brocaded in a lavender and white floral design. The
handkerchief ring is an interesting costume accessory of
the period.
72-2416
JANE APPLETON PIERCE (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)
First Lady, 1853-1857.
Dress made of black tulle embroidered with silver thread
over black taffeta. A tulle and silver jacket and a lace
and net cap complete the ensemble.
72-2417
HARRIET LANE JOHNSTON (Mrs. Henry Elliott Johnston)
Niece of President James Buchanan and First Lady,
1857-1861.
FORD 2 LIBRARY
Wedding gown made of white moire taffeta. The bodice is
trimmed with white satin and Rose Point lace.
72-2418
MARY 10DD LINCOLN (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)
First Lady, 1861-1865.
Purple velvet dress piped with white satin and trimmed
with black and white lace and net. The matching fan was
owned by Mrs. Lincoln.
72-2419
MARTHA JOHNSON PATTERSON (Mrs. David T. Patterson)
First Lady, 1865-1869
Daughter of President Andrew Johnson
Woolen cloak in the style of an Arabian burnous ornamented
with gold braid and tassels. A dress worn by Mrs. Patterson
has not been located.
72-2420
*JULIA DENT GRANT (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)
First Lady, 1869-1877.
Inaugural Ball gown worn in 1873 and made of silver brocade
given to Mrs. Grant by the Emperor of China. The lace
fichu was worn to the first Inaugural Ball in 1869.
72-2421
LUCY WEBB HAYES (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)
First Lady, 1877-1881.
Dress worn to a White House dinner given in honor of the
Grand Duke Alexis of Russia in 1877. This elaborate dress
of the bustle period is made of ivory and gold brocaded
taffeta and ivory satin with lace, fringe, and bead trimmings.
72-2422
*LUCRETIA RUDOLPH GARFIELD (Mrs. James A. Garfield)
First Lady, 1881.
Dress made of lavender-gray satin trimmed with ribbons,
ruching and flounces of Brussels point lace. Worn to the
Inaugural Ball held at the Smithsonian Institution.
72-2423
MARY ARTHUR McELROY (Mrs. John McElroy)
Sister of President Chester A. Arthur and First Lady,
1881-1885.
Satin damask dress with a morning glory design and trimmed
with sequins and steel and jet beads. The original gray
color of the gown has mellowed to an off-white.
FORD LIBRARY A. GREATO
72-2424
ROSE ELIZABETH CLEVELAND
Sister of President Grover Cleveland and First Lady,
1885-1886.
Dress made of garnet silk velvet with panels of pink
faille and silver and gold braid trim.
72-2425
CAROLINE SCOTT HARRISON (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)
First Lady, 1889-1892.
Inaugural Ball gown of American design and manufacture.
The bodice and train are silver gray faille and the front
skirt panels are silver satin brocaded with a burr oak
design. Between the panels are pleats of apricot-color
silk veiled in lace. The dress is trimmed in silver and
gold fringe.
72-2426
*MARY HARRISON McKEE (Mrs. James R. McKee)
Daughter of President Benjamin Harrison and First Lady,
1892-1893.
Inaugural gown made of parchment-color satin brocaded with
a goldenrod design in olive and gold. The gold taffeta skirt
panels and the apple-green velvet neck and sleeve edging are
trimmed with amber and silver beads. The underskirt is
apple-green velvet.
72-2427
FRANCES FOLSOM CLEVELAND (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)
First Lady, 1886-1889 and 1893-1897.
Dress made of black satin and iridescent taffeta trimmed
with jet beads, black sequins, and a black overlay brocade.
A band of fur borders the skirt.
72-2428
IDA SAXTON McKINLEY (Mrs. William McKinley)
First Lady, 1897-1901.
Inaugural Ball gown made of heavy white satin trimmed
with pearl embroidery and Rose Point lace.
72-2429
*EDITH KERMIT ROOSEVELT (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)
First Lady, 1901-1909.
Dress worn to the Inaugural Ball in 1905. Made of robin's
egg blue satin brocaded with a design of swallows and gold
pin-wheels of ostrich feathers. The painted paper fan
belonged to Mrs. Roosevelt.
GERALD LIVERY
72-2430
*HELEN HERRON TAFT (Mrs. William H. Taft)
First Lady, 1909-1913.
Inaugural Ball gown of the Empire revival style made of
white silk chiffon embroidered in Japan. The embroidery
is 8 pattern of goldenrod in silver thread and crystal
beads. Lace trims the bodice.
72-2431
ELLEN AXSON WILSON (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson)
First Lady, 1913-1915.
Dress made of white velvet brocaded with a rose design
over an underskirt of white satin and lace. Trimmed
with net, rhinestones, steel beads, seed pearls and large
baroque pearls.
72-2432
EDITH BOLLING WILSON (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson)
Second wife of President Woodrow Wilson and First Lady,
1915-1921.
Dress worn on the trip to the Peace Conference in Paris
in 1918. The skirt and the tunic overdress are made of
black velvet with tulle sleeves and neckline. Trimmed
with jet sequins, bead tassels and green beads.
72-2433
FLORENCE KLING HARDING (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)
First Lady, 1921-1923:
Dress made of white satin trimmed with net, rhinestones,
crystal beads, and baroque pearls. The white satin train
is trimmed with black net. Worn to a reception at the
Pan American Building in Washington, D.C. soon after the
Inauguration.
72-2434
GRACE GOODHUE COOLIDGE (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)
First Lady, 1923-1929.
Rose chiffon velvet dress of the flapper period trimmed
with a rhinestone belt.
72-2435
LOU HENRY HOOVER (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)
First Lady, 1929-1933.
Pale green satin dress with rhinestone shoulder clips. The
silver filigree lorgnette was also owned by Mrs. Hoover.
SERALD FORD LIBRARY
72-2436
*ANNA ELEANOR ROOSEVELT (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)
First Lady, 1933-1945.
Dress worn to the third Inaugural Ball in 1941 and made
of flesh color satin trimmed with pearls of the same color.
72-2437
BESS WALLACE TRUMAN (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)
First Lady, 1945-1953.
Gown made of smoke gray mousseline de soie over light
gray taffeta and white mousseline de soie. Worn to a
State dinner given for Queen Juliana of the Netherlands
in 1952.
72-2438
*MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)
First Lady, 1953-1961
Inaugural Ball gown worn in 1953. Made of Renoir pink
peau de soie embroidered with pink rhinestones. Accompanied
by matching gloves, shoes and an evening bag trimmed with
pink rhinestones, pearls and beads.
72-2439
*JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)
First Lady, 1961-1963.
Inaugural Ball gown and cape made of white peau d'ange
veiled with white chiffon. The bodice is trimmed with
silver embroidery.
72-2440
CLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)
First Lady, 1963-1969.
Dress and coat ensemble worn to the Inaugural Ball in 1965.
Made of jonquil yellow double-woven satin. The coat is
trimmed with natural sable cuffs.
72-2441
*PATRICIA RYAN NIXON (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)
First Lady, 1969 -
Inaugural Ball gown and Jacket made of mimosa yellow silk
satin with the jacket, collar and cummerbund heavily
embroidered with Byzantine scrolls of gold and silver
bullion and hand-set Austrian crystal jewels.
*Inaugural gown
FORD & LIBRARY DERALD
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
PHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Processing fees for black and white photographs are listed on
the attached photographic services information sheet. The fee
for color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with
a $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides
with a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please
refer all questions concerning photographic orders to the
Photographic Services Division.
Dress worn by:
Negative No.
Slide No.
Martha Washington (Mrs. George Washington)
57614
72-2401
Abigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams)
57615
72-2402
Shawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thomas
Randolph), daughter of President Thomas Jefferson
57616
72-2403
Dolley Madison (Mrs. James Madison)
57617
72-2404
Elizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. James Monroe) Courtesy of the
President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.
57618
72-2405
Marie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur),
daughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the
President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.
57619
72-2406
Louisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)
57620
72-2407
*Emily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson), niece of
President Andrew Jackson
57621
72-2408
Sarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.), wife of
adopted son of President Andrew Jackson
57622
72-2409
Angelica Singleton Van Buren (Mrs. Abram Van Buren),
daughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren
57623
72-2410
*Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), hostess for
President William Henry Harrison
57624
72-2411
Julia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. John Tyler)
57625
72-2412
*Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk)
57626
72-2413
Betty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of
President Zachary Taylor
57627
72-2414
Abigail Powers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)
57628
72-2415
Jane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)
57629
72-2416
-2-
PHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Dress worn by:
Negative No.
Slide No.
Harriet Lane, niece of President James Buchanan
57630
72-2417
Mary Todd Lincoln (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)
57631
72-2418
Martha Johnson Patterson (Mrs. David T. Patterson),
daughter of President Andrew Johnson
57632
72-2419
*Julia Dent Grant (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)
57633
72-2420
Lucy Webb Hayes (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)
57634
72-2421
*Lucretia R. Garfield (Mrs. James A. Garfield)
57635
72-2422
Mary Arthur McElroy (Mrs. John McElroy), sister
of President Chester Arthur
57636
72-2423
Rose Cleveland, sister of President Grover Cleveland
57637
72-2424
*Caroline Scott Harrison (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)
57638
72-2425
*Mary Harrison McKee (Mrs. James McKee), daughter of
President Benjamin Harrison
57639
72-2426
Frances Folsom Cleveland (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)
57640
72-2427
*Ida Saxton McKinley (Mrs. William McKinley)
57641
72-2428
*Edith Carow Roosevelt (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)
57642
72-2429
*Helen Herron Taft (Mrs. William Howard Taft)
57643
72-2430
Ellen Axson Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson I)
57644
72-2431
Edith Bolling Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson II)
57645
72-2432
Florence Kling Harding (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)
57646
72-2433
Grace Goodhue Coolidge (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)
57647
72-2434
Lou Henry Hoover (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)
57648
72-2435
*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)
57649
72-2436
*Bess Wallace Truman (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)
57650
72-2437
*Mamie Doud Eisenhower (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)
57651
72-2438
*Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)
57652
72-2439
*Lady Bird Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)
57653
72-2440
*Patricia Ryan Nixon (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)
73315
72-2441
--Compiled by the Division of Political History,
The National Museum of History and Technology,
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, D.C. 20560
*Inaugural dresses
Leaflet 73-1
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT GEORGE WASHINGTON
MARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON
Martha Dandridge was born on a large plantation on the Pamunkey River in
Virginia on June 21 of the year 1731. She was the oldest child of Colonel
John Dandridge and Frances Jones Dandridge.
Martha had no formal education, but until she was 15 years old her days
were filled with lessons in housekeeping, music, dancing and sewing. She
entered society in the town of Williamsburg at the age of 15 and was a reigning
belle until she married Daniel Parke Custis, a wealthy planter with a fortune in
lands, slaves and money, in 1749. At his death a few years later, Martha was left
a wealthy widow with two small children.
A year after the death of her husband, Martha Custis first met Colonel
George Washington, just returned from the Braddock campaign and already well known
and respected in his native state. They were married in 1759. The bride is
described at this time as short, slight with brown hair and brown eyes.
George Washington and his wife, Martha, with the two young Custis children,
settled down at Mount Vernon where they lived the leisurely attractive life
customary of the Virginia planter. Their home became famous throughout Virginia
for its hospitality, with Martha as its hostess.
At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, George Washington became the
general of the Continental Army and Martha Washington began her life
as wife of a public servant. She followed her husband into camp
Martha Dandridge Custis Washington
page 2
during the long winters of the war, returning to Mount Vernon during
the summer campaigns. Her dignity and courage were an inspiration
to her husband and his troops and she contributed materially to
the comfort of the small army whenever she was in camp.
General and Mrs. Washington returned to Mount Vernon at the end
of the war to resume the quiet, leisurely life they enjoyed at their
home. But again Washington was called to serve his country, and
Martha Washington became the wife of the first President of the
United States. Lacking precedent for her manner of entertaining,
Mrs. Washington settled many questions of official etiquette with
common sense and dignity. She received her guests seated at her weekly
receptions, and it is thus we find her presented in our collection.
Accounts of Mrs. Washington describe her as a short person, with white
powdered hair, wearing fine clothes of satins, silks, and velvets, who
had the ability to give a homelike charm to the most formal occasion.
Martha Washington was not sorry to step down from her position after
eight years, as, she had felt as First Lady "more like a state
prisoner than anything else."
The last years of her life were spent at Mount Vernon, surrounded
by her husband and grandchildren but acting even then as a gracious
hostess for the many visitors who came to pay their respects to her husband.
The three years of her life which followed the death of George Washington
were spent at Mount Vernon in virtual retirement, and she was laid to
rest at his side in 1802.
Leaflet 72-24
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DRESS OF MARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON
First Lady 1789-1797
The dress which was worn by Martha Washington, the first of our
Presidential Hostesses, is made of faille in the more conservative
style of the late eighteenth century. It has a voluminous skirt and a
tightfitting bodice which laces down the back. The low neckline of the
dress is edged with an inch width of fine lace. Around the shoulders of
the figure is a soft, white shawl of Mechlin lace, and she wears lace
mitts on her hands. As Mrs. Washington was accustomed to wearing a
"Mob Cap" to all social functions, she is represented in this collection
with one of white lace on her head.
The material of this dress, which was probably purchased in London,
is salmon pink in color and the faille is hand-painted with a black-white
ribbon chain which forms medallion spaces all over the dress. Each
medallion is joined to the next with a emerald green square. In the larger
of the medallions are painted native wild flowers of North America--the
violet, buttercup, daisy, morning-glory, arbutus; and in the smaller
spaces are painted insects such as the grasshopper, spider, fly, ladybug
and the wasp.
Mrs. Washington holds in her hands a brown satin bag which she made
and which is embroidered in ribbon work. The name "Mrs. Washington"
in old-fashioned script is worked across the front of the bag.
Leaflet 72-30
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
NSTITUTION
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JAMES MADISON
DOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON
Dolley Payne was born in 1772 in North Carolina, the second
child of John and Mary Coles Payne of Virginia ancestry. In 1783,
while Dolley was still a little girl, her father joined the Society
of Friends and moved his family to Philadelphia to enable his
children to participate in the educational and religious benefits
available in the city of the Quakers. In Philadelphia, Dolley
was brought up in the strict discipline of the society and her maturing
beauty was hidden in the somber dress of the Quakers. But the discipline
and Quaker dress did not conceal the happy personality and warm heart
with which nature had blessed Dolley Payne. She married another young
Quaker when she was nineteen years old - John Todd, a rising lawyer
in Philadelphia. For three short years she lived the quiet secluded
life of a Quaker wife and mother, and then in 1793 John Todd died in
a yellow fever epidemic leaving Dolley a widow with a small son.
Meanwhile Philadelphia had become the capital of the newly formed
United States and Philadelphia streets were crowded with strangers,
the great and near great concerned with the management of the country.
No wonder the young widow attracted attention, as she is described as having
laughing Irish blue eyes, curling black hair, and warm-hued skin.
She attracted none other than the "great little Madison", one
-2-
of the most talented members of the Congress and a statesman of
wealth and social position. They were married in 1794 at the residence
of Dolley's young sister in Virginia. The bride was 23 at that time,
and her husband was over 20 years older. The wedding took place with
the approval and best wishes of President and Mrs. Washington and other
leaders of the young country who were particularly interested in
Mr. Madison's career.
Dolley, her young son and new husband went immediately to
"Montpelier", the Madison estate in Virginia, where they lived a quiet,
leisurely life until 1801, when James Madison was called to Washington
to be Secretary of State for President Thomas Jefferson. Already Dolley's
popularity was established with her Virginia kin and the trip to
Washington included visits at many of the homes at which she was so
welcome. In Washington the Madison home quickly became the center of
society for that gay city. Blessed with a desire to please and a
willingness to be pleased, she was soon loved by everyone and political
quarrels were soothed by her gracious tact.
As President Jefferson's daughters were often not available to
hostess at the White House, Mrs. Madison presided over many of the
receptions and formal dinners and Mr. Jefferson greatly depended on her
for assistance. In 1809 James Madison succeeded Jefferson as President
and Dolley Madison moved into the White House as First Lady. The eight
years of the administration which followed were years of stately gaiety
and a perpetual round of parties. Dolley was 37 years old, still
young in appearance and well accomplished in social knowledge.
Dolley Payne Todd Madison
- 3 -
She had discarded Quaker dress many years before and she now dressed
handsomely and "in the mode". Mrs. Margaret Bayard Smith, entertaining
chronicler of early Washington society, writes of her as follows:
"She looked like a Queen
It would be absolutely impossible for
anyone to behave with more perfect propriety than she did. Unassuming
dignity, sweetness and grace. She really in manner and appearance
answered all my ideas of royalty".
Dolley Madison's popularity withstood the increasing political
animosities of the last administration of her husband and the troubled
years of the War of 1812. Though she was forced to flee from the
White House before an invading army, she returned to the city and the
administration closed in a blaze of social glory.
The Madisons returned to Montpelier and lived there until the
death of President Madison in 1836. The next winter Dolley Madison
returned to Washington and again her home became one of the centers of
society in that city. She retained her great popularity to the end of
her life, and she died loved and respected by all in 1849.
The record made by the delightful personality of this unusual
woman has endured even to this day. She remains for each generation
one of the best known and best loved First Ladies of the White House.
Leaflet 72-25
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DRESS OF DOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON
First Lady, 1809-1817
Dolley Madison wore this dress in 1816 at a New Year's Day
reception held in their temporary home in Washington, D. C., at
19th and Pennsylvania Avenue, N. W. during the reconstruction of
the White House. Her dress was described by Mrs. Benjamin
Crowninshield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, as " yellow
satin embroidered all over with sprigs of butterflies, not two
alike in the dress; a narrow border in all colors; made high-
in-the-neck; a little cape, long sleeves and a white bonnet with
feathers." The exquisite multicolor Chinese embroidery also includes
insects and flowers. This dress exemplifies the Empire style
worn in the United States in the first quarter of the 19th Century.
Leaflet 72-31
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT ABRAHAM LINCOLN
MARY TODD LINCOLN
Mary Todd was born in Lexington, Kentucky in 1818, daughter of pioneer
settlers of the Blue Grass State. Her father, Robert Smith Todd, was a
leading citizen of his community. Her mother died when Mary was 7, and
her father married again in a short time. Mary had the advantages of a nice
home and pleasant social life and she was well educated in private schools.
As she grew up, she was described by her companions as "vivacious, nervous,
impulsive, excitable, with a charming personality, marred only by cutting
sarcastic wit which cut deeper than she intended". It was said that she
had clear blue eyes, long lashes, light brown hair with a glint of bronze,
and a lovely complexion.
When Mary Todd was 21 years old she went to Springfield, Illinois to live
with her sister, Mrs. Ninian Edwards. Here she met Abraham Lincoln, and two
years later after a stormy courtship and broken engagement, they were married.
Though the two were opposite in many ways, there was always between them the
strong tie of their mutual ambitions. The years in Springfield brought hard
work, a family of boys, and reduced family circumstances to the pleasure-loving
girl who had never felt responsibility before. Under the stress, there
appeared the first signs of mental disability that in later years changed her
whole personality.
Administration of President Abraham Lincoln
-2-
The Lincoln's first home was a room in a boarding house in Springfield.
After a year there, and another year in a rented home, they moved into a
modest house of their own, the famous house on 8th Street, in which they
lived until they left Springfield in 1861.
In 1846 Abraham Lincoln was elected to Congress and Mary and the
children spent a winter with him in Washington. It was her first taste of
Washington social life although, as wife of a poor Congressman from the
West with two small children, there was not much opportunity for her to
enjoy it. Lincoln returned to his law practice in Springfield after the
next election.
He was back in politics in 1858, helping to form the new Republican
party and he ran in the Illinois Senatorial race that year against
Stephen Douglas. Though Lincoln lost the election, he made some valuable
contacts and the series of debates, to which he had challenged Douglas, made
him well known both in the party and in the nation. In 1860 Abraham Lincoln
was chosen as Republican nominee for President of the United States and he
won the election. The faith of the young Mary Todd in the future of the man
she had chosen as her husband was amply justified.
The years Mrs. Lincoln spent in the White House were not happy ones,
though the position fulfilled her high social ambitions. It was not easy
for the woman who had been Mary Todd of Kentucky to make a place in Washington
during the Civil War years, despite her ample social qualifications, because
in a city of Southerners she was scorned as a traitor to her Southern birth.
Domestic bereavement and the horrors of war robbed the White House of many
Administration of President Abraham Lincoln
-3-
social pleasures. Apparently to compensate for the frustrations of her
social life, Mrs. Lincoln started an orgy of spending which lasted for the
whole four years and for which she was widely criticized.
When President Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, Mary Todd Lincoln was
shattered in mental and physical health and the next 17 years held nothing
but sorrow for her. With her son Tad she traveled constantly in search of
health and peace of mind, tortured with distorted ideas of her financial
situation. After Tad's untimely death in 1871, she slipped over into a
world of illusion in which she was always pursued by fear of poverty and
assassination. A misunderstood and tragic figure, she passed away in 1882
at her sister's home in Springfield, Illinois, the same house from which
she had walked as the bride of Abraham Lincoln, 40 years before.
Leaflet 72-26
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DRESS OF MARY TODD LINCOLN
First Lady, 1861-1865
The dress of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln is made of royal purple velvet
with the tight bodice and full skirt of the hoop-skirt period.
Mrs. Lincoln's fondness for clothes is displayed in the excellent
tasteshe used in selecting her wardrobe. Shades of lavender and
purple were her favorite colors and this dress is of a deep, rich
hue. The seams of the dress, skirt and bodice, the hem of the skirt,
and the bottom of the bodice are piped with narrow white satin cord.
The neck of the dress is trimmed with an elaborate fichu of black
Alencon lace with a white edge and the short puffed sleeves are made
of white net and Alencon lace.
Accompanying this dress is a fan made of purple taffeta and a
purple parasol, which was carried with the dress, is also displayed
in the case. The parasol was an indispensible accessory of dress of
the period and seldom did a lady go for a promenade or a drive without
her tiny parasol.
The wreath of flowers which encircles the head of Mrs. Lincoln's
figure recalls her favorite style of coiffure.
Leaflet 72-32
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
ADMINISTRATION OF CALVIN COOLIDGE
GRACE GOODHUE COOLIDGE
Grace Goodhue was born in Burlington, Vermont in 1879 the daughter of
Andrew and Lemira B. Goodhue. Her childhood, that of an only child, was
uneventful in the little Green Mountain town. It was at this time she first
heard of a school for teaching deaf children in Northampton, Massachusetts
from one of her father's friends and she determined to share this charitable
work. Toward this end she attended the University of Vermont, from which she
graduated in 1902 with her degree. She went to Northampton that same year
to teach at the Clarke School for the Deaf.
Calvin Coolidge met Grace Goodhue when she was a teacher at Clarke
School, when she was just in her early twenties, a lovely girl. They met
casually, went to the same boating, picnicking, dancing, whist-club set,
composed largely of members of the Congregational Church. They became engaged
in the early summer of 1905 and were married in October. For nearly a
year the Coolidges lived in a boarding house, then they moved into half of a
double house two weeks before their first baby was born. Mrs. Coolidge ran
the little house herself, doing all her own housework, and she budgeted
household expenses well within the income of a struggling young lawyer in a
small town.
To Grace Coolidge may be credited a full and proper share in her husband's
rise in politics. She worked hard, kept up appearances, did her part in
Grace Goodhue Coolidge
-2-
town activities, attended her church and played the game of the politician's
wife. She supplemented her husband's natural shyness with a gay friendliness
and managed the social life of the small family to offset the lack of social
graces enjoyed by Mr. Coolidge.
Four years later another son was born to the Coolidges, while Calvin
Coolidge was Mayor of Northampton. While he was a member of the State
Legislature and State Senate, and later as Lieutenant Governor, the Coolidge
family remained in their small home in Northampton, while Calvin rented a
dollar and a half room in Boston and came home on weekends. When he was
elected Governor, he continued to follow the same routine, as Massachusetts
was without an executive residence. On high days and holidays, Mrs. Coolidge
came down to Boston, but for the most part she remained in Northampton with
her boys.
They were still living in their duplex apartment in Northampton when
they went to Washington in 1921, when Calvin Coolidge was elected Vice President
of the United States. As wife of the Vice President, Grace Coolidge went
from the quiet life of a housewife to which she was accustomed into the
complexity of Washington social life, and she adapted herself SO quickly that
she became the most popular woman in the nation's capital. Much of her
popularity was due to her warm friendliness, her zest for life, and her innate
simplicity. She was quite a pretty woman, with sparkling brown eyes and
brown hair, a nice figure, and a pleasant smile.
With the death of President Harding in 1923, Grace Goodhue Coolidge
became the wife of the President of the United States and the First Lady of
Grace Goodhue Coolidge
-3-
the White House. The social life of the White House instituted by Mrs. Coolidge
was simple but dignified. Her time and her friendliness now belonged to the
nation and she was generous with both. Even under the sorrow of the sudden
and tragic death of her youngest son at the age of 14, she remained strong
and heroic, never allowing her personal grief to interfere with her duties
as First Lady. Her charm, tact and gaiety made Mrs. Coolidge one of the
most popular hostesses of the White House, and she left Washington in 1929
with the nation's respect and love.
When the Coolidges left the White House they returned to their duplex
house in Northampton. Mrs. Coolidge resumed her church activities, was
associated with the Red Cross and other organized community enterprises.
They later bought a large house on the outskirts of the town, a place known
as "The Beeches". In 1931 Mrs. Coolidge was voted one of America's greatest
living women, and she was presented a gold medal by the National Institute
of Social Sciences for her "fine personal influence exerted as First Lady of
the Land". Calvin Coolidge died at "The Beeches" in 1933.
Mrs. Coolidge maintained her home on the outskirts of Northampton until
her death in 1957.
Leaflet 72-27
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIA
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DRESS OF MRS. CALVIN COOLIDGE
First Lady, 1923 - 1929
The dress which represents the administration of Calvin Coolidge in the
collection is typical of the style of the period in which the dress was worn.
The only representative of the flapper period in the First Ladies' collection,
Mrs. Coolidge's dress always causes much comment among visitors to the Museum.
The bodice of the dress is perfectly plain with a low neckline and with
the waistline lowered almost to the hips. The low waistline is encircled by a
rhinestone belt which buckles at the front of the dress. The bodice blouses
out a bit at the waist. The skirt is made of three tiers of velvet. The
pointed train, which is yards long from the shoulder straps, adds to the formal
appearance of the dress.
This dress is one of the most typical of the period of fashion it
represents in the whole collection. American women, at this time, dressed
in short dresses for all occasions and evening dresses did not become ankle
length again until the 1930's. Mrs. Coolidge's good taste is displayed in
the truly lovely quality and color of the rose chiffon velvet out of which
the dress is made. The slippers which were worn with the dress are of the
same rose velvet with gold heels and rhinestone buckles. Mrs. Coolidge placed
her Pi Beta Phi Sorority pin upon the left breast of the figure soon after the
dress was installed in the case.
In 1945 Mrs. Coolidge sent to the Museum a string of pearls and an
ecru lace handkerchief to improve the installation of the dress.
Leaflet 72-33
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
ANNA ELEANOR ROOSEVELT
Anna Eleanor Roosevelt was born in New York City in 1884. She was the
daughter of Elliott Roosevelt, a younger brother of President Theodore Roosevelt,
and Anna Hall. Eleanor was early handicapped by a lack of beauty and an
awkward shyness which set her apart from her distinguished, elegant and charming
family. When her mother died in 1892, the children went to live with Grandmother
Hall and her father died only two years later. From that time young Eleanor's
companions were her aunts and uncles, years older than she, without much
companionship of children her own age. Most of her elementary education was
received at home, and when she was 15 she was sent to school in England. It was
Eleanor's first chance to develop without the constant supervision of her family.
Her confidence grew with her contact with other girls and she learned to widen
her activities and interests until she became interested in everyone and
everything.
The return to America after graduation brought Eleanor back to a life
circumscribed by the interest of New York society - a life in which she found
little interest and pleasure. Among her few close friends was a distant cousin,
Franklin Delano Roosevelt, whom she remembered from childhood parties. In the
Autumn of 1903, when Eleanor was nineteen, she and Franklin became engaged.
FORD is GREATO
Anna Eleanor Roosevelt
-2-
They were married in 1905 while Franklin was a law student at Columbia University.
The first years of married life were spent with Franklin Roosevelt's mother in
Hyde Park.
In 1910 Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected to the New York State Senate,
and his family moved to Albany for sessions of the legislature. Here Eleanor
started her long career as political helpmate of her husband, and home became
a center for Roosevelt's political associates. The years in Albany gave her
practice for the political life of Washington when her husband became Assistant
Secretary of the Navy in 1913. When. the World War began in 1917, in addition
to her home duties, the care of her children, and her social life, Mrs. Roosevelt
devoted long hours to volunteer war work.
In 1921 Franklin Roosevelt was stricken with poliomyelitis, and all of
Mrs. Roosevelt's energy and time were devoted to her husband's care. In an
effort to awaken his interest in politics again, she became active in the women's
division of the State Democratic Committee and also became an essociate member
of the Women's Trade Union. Meanwhile, her days were busy caring for her family
of five children and seeing that their life remained normal despite their
father's illness.
With his wife's encouragement, Franklin Roosevelt again entered politics
and was elected Governor of New York in 1928. From that day to the day of his
death, Mrs. Roosevelt's life was dedicated to helping her husband, and she
d
FORD
GERALD
became eyes, ears, and legs for him, a trusted and tireless reporter. Her own
social work continued with the establishment of the Val Kill furniture factory
at Hyde Park to give employment to men of the neigbborhood, and she became at
the same time part owner, vice principal, and teacher at Todhunter School for girls.
Anna Eleanor Roosevelt
-3-
When Mrs. Roosevelt came to the White House in 1933, she understood the
social conditions of the country better then any former First Lady. She had
developed a social consciousness, from her work in New York State, which resulted
in an eagerness to work and aid in the correction of poor social conditions. As
the wife of the President, she traveled to all parts of the country to bring
her husband useful information and became interested in every phase of social
reform. She kept in touch with the people of the country through a daily
syndicated column, "My Day", in which she expressed her opinions on every subject.
This made her a tempting target for enemies of her husband, but her integrity, her
graciousness, and her sincerity of purpose endeared her personally to thousands
of persons all over the globe.
She did not shirk official entertainments at the White House and until
the war year of 1941 she entertained at teas, receptions, and state dinners
with the charming friendliness and experience acquired during her husband's
distinguished career.
During World War II Eleanor Roosevelt's duties included an official position
as assistant director of the Office of Civilian Defense, expeditions to visit
service men on two war fronts, and acting hostess of the White House during
visits from political and military leaders of our allies.
Mrs. Roosevelt left the White House in 1945 after her husband's death and
returned to a small home which she maintained on the Hyde Park estate. From there
she continued to be influential in many reform movements. In 1945 she was
appointed U.S. representative in the general assembly of the United Nations and
B.
FORD
SERVICE
LIBRARY
Anna Eleanor Roosevelt
-4-
later became chairman of the Commission for Human Rights. In addition to her
daily newspaper column, Mrs. Rooseyelt published several books telling the
story of her life and her husband's career.
Eleanor Roosevelt died on November 7, 1962, in New York City and was
buried beside her husband at Hyde Park. President Kennedy and former
Presidents Eisenhower and Truman were at her burial, an honorable testimonial
to Mrs. Roosevelt's humanitarian contributions.
Leaflet 72-28
Smithsonian Institution
FORDS 12 07/30 LIBRARY
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
DRESS WORN BY MRS. FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
First Lady, 1933 - 1945
Mrs. Roosevelt is represented in our collection by her third
inaugural gown, a regal looking dress made of warm tinted satin.
The color of this gown varies from ivory to a deep peach color,
according to the light in which it is viewed. The skirt is cut on
the bias with a drape in the center front. The sweetheart neckline
of the gown and its intricately cut sleeves are trimmed with pearls
tinted to match the material of the dress. A double train from the
shoulders, narrow at the top and widening to several yards at the hem,
falls into the full skirt of the gown to drape into folds like one
single voluminous train. The simple, pleasing lines of this modern
dress make it worthy of comparison with the finest of the period
costumes.
Leaflet 72-34
Smithsonian Institution
GERALD FORD LIBRARY
THE GOWN OF MRS. DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER
as displayed in the
United States National Museum
Smithsonian Institution
By MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR
[Supplement to "The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House," by
Margaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.]
WASHINGTONIANS
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
1958
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER
MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER
M
AMIE GENEVA DOUD, the second child
up the ladder for her husband, with increas-
of John Sheldon Doud and Elivera
ing duties and responsibilities for her. Their
Carlson Doud, was born on November 14,
first child, a son, who was born in San An-
1896, in the town of Boone, Iowa, where her
tonio in September 1917 and named Doud
father was in the livestock commission busi-
Dwight, died of scarlet fever in 1921 when
ness. When she was nine months old the
the Eisenhowers were stationed at Camp
family moved to Cedar Rapids, where she
Meade, Md. The second boy, John Sheldon
spent her earliest childhood and started
Doud Eisenhower, was born in Denver in
school.
1922 during his father's tour of duty in
In 1904, when Mamie was still a little girl,
Panama.
her father retired and the family moved to
By 1941 Eisenhower was a colonel, and
Pueblo, Colo., settling in Denver in 1905
promotions came quickly after the war
in a substantial brick house on Lafayette
started. During her husband's duty at the
Street. Mamie received her elementary edu-
Pentagon early in the war, Mamie moved to
cation at a public school and then attended
Washington. When he went overseas to as-
Miss Walcott's, a private school for the
sume the command of the European Theater
daughters of Denver's families.
of Operations, she took a small apartment in
In 1910 Mr. and Mrs. Doud took the fam-
the Capital for the duration of the war.
ily to San Antonio, Tex., for the winter, in
The Eisenhowers remained in the Wash-
the hope that the milder climate would be
ington area until his retirement from the
beneficial to Mamie's older sister. They liked
Army in 1948. They then spent two years in
that city so well that they took a house there
New York while General Eisenhower served
for their winter residence. It was in San An-
as President of Columbia University. It was
tonio in October 1915 that Mamie Doud met
during this period that they purchased the
Dwight D. Eisenhower, a young second lieu-
farm at Gettysburg, Pa., which was the first
tenant who was serving his first tour of duty
home they had ever owned and a source of
at Fort Sam Houston. She was a pretty and
joy and relaxation to them during the ensu-
popular young girl of eighteen. It was not
ing years.
long, however, until "Ike" Eisenhower was a
In January 1951 General Eisenhower was
favorite not only with Mamie but with her
assigned the command of NATO forces in
family, too, and on St. Valentine's Day 1916
France. Mamie was again confronted with
they became officially engaged. They were
the problem of making a home in a foreign
married at the Doud home in Denver on July
country. At the villa at Marnes La Coquette
1, 1916.
she assumed the duties of hostess to promi-
For many years Mamie Eisenhower's life
nent people from all over the world and had
UD EISENHOWER
followed the pattern of other Army wives, at
her first experience at entertaining according
The dress Mrs. Eisenhower is wearing in this
a succession of Army posts in the continental
to diplomatic protocol.
hotograph is her second inaugural gown. Photo-
United States, and duty in Panama, France,
This was excellent practice for the next
graph courtesy of Mrs. Eisenhower.
and the Philippines, each move another rung
assignment, which was as First Lady of the
a
FORD
GERALD
LIBRARY
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER
White House when Dwight D. Eisenhower
formality which often surrounds such func-
was elected President of the United States in
tions as state dinners and official receptions.
1953. It is seldom that a First Lady has been
The Eisenhowers spend as much leisure time
so warmly welcomed by the American people.
as possible at their Gettysburg farm.
After years of deliberately choosing to stay in
Perhaps Mrs. Eisenhower's outstanding
the background, Mrs. Eisenhower found her-
characteristic is her femininity, which is evi-
self in the full glare of the spotlight, and she
denced in her love of home, her devotion to
reacted with the poise and dignity of one
her family, and her interest in clothes. Her
well suited to the position. Her genuine lik-
deep blue eyes, brown hair arranged with the
ing for people and her evident enjoyment of
now famous "Mamie bangs," and vivid smile
the many social and official obligations en-
have become as well known to the American
deared her to the public. Her friendly per-
public as her husband's familiar smile.
sonality and informality help to dispel the
DRESS OF MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER
First Lady of the White House, 1953-
Mrs. Eisenhower's first inaugural ball
box tooled in gold with the words "Mamie
gown was made by the New York designer
Doud Eisenhower, January 20, 1953," in-
Nettie Rosenstein and purchased through
scribed on it.
Neiman-Marcus of Dallas. It is of peau-de-
The complete ensemble of dress, accesso-
soie, Renoir pink with a mauve undertone,
ries, and jewelry was presented to the public
embroidered with over 2,000 pink rhine-
for the first time when Mrs. Eisenhower
stones. The dress has matching taffeta and
opened the First Ladies Hall on May 24,
crinoline petticoats under the bouffant skirt.
1955. The ensemble is exhibited in the pe-
The long pink gloves and shoes are of match-
riod setting that represents the East Room of
ing fabric. The evening bag, also designed
the White House as it has looked during
by Nettie Rosenstein, is of matching pink silk
most of the twentieth century. The soft pink
fabric on a silver frame and is solidly en-
color of the dress looks especially attractive
crusted with 3,456 pink rhinestones, pink
against the white and gold color scheme that
pearls, and beads.
predominates in the room.
With the dress Mrs. Eisenhower wore cos-
tume jewelry designed and made for her by
Trifari. The triple-strand choker necklace is
of simulated Orientique pearls interspersed
REFERENCES:
with round brilliants that are called rondels.
HATCH, ALDEN: Red Carpet for Mamie.
Mrs. Eisenhower prefers button earrings, and
New York, 1954.
these are fashioned like snowflakes. The
BRANDON, DOROTHY: Mamie Doud Eisen-
bracelet is a matching piece. The set was
hower, A Portrait of a First Lady. Garden
presented to her in a satin-lined white-kid
City, New York, 1954.
FURD UNITED
THE GOWN OF MRS. JOHN F. KENNEDY
as displayed in the
United States National Museum
Smithsonian Institution
By MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR
[Supplement to "The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House" by
Margaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.]
THE
INSTITUTIONAL DIF INSION SE:
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
1963
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY
JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY
[ACQUELINE LEE BOUVIER was born on
In Washington Jacqueline attended Holton
July 28, 1930, in Southampton, Long Is-
Arms for two years; then at the age of fifteen
land, N.Y., the first child of John Vernon
she went to Miss Porter's School at Farming-
Bouvier III and his attractive wife, Janet
ton, Connecticut. She made her debut in the
Lee Bouvier. Mr. Bouvier was a member of
summer of 1948, the year she graduated from
the New York Stock Exchange, and he and
Miss Porter's, and was honored with the title
his wife lived in New York in the winter and
of Debutante of the year.
Long Island in the summer.
In the fall she entered Vassar College. The
Jacqueline's formal education began when
next summer she made the Grand Tour and
she was sent to Miss Chapin's School, a New
discovered the charms of Europe. In fact, she
York private school where she received a
was so delighted with her experiences that
good basic education. Throughout her school
she determined to spend her junior year of
days Jacqueline was an exceptionally bright
college studying in France at the Sorbonne.
student. She learned to read before she was six
The year she spent there living with a French
years old, and her retentive memory and the
family was to have a great influence on her
ease with which she absorbed knowledge,
life. It gave her a great sympathy for the
especially of those subjects in which she was
people of foreign countries, especially the
interested, made her stand out from her group
French, and broadened her cultural tastes and
in each successive step of her education. Side
interests far beyond those of the average
by side with her intellectual development
American girl of her age.
were her intense interest and increasing pro-
The next year Jacqueline continued her
ficiency in horsemanship. Under her mother's
college work at George Washington Univer-
expert guidance she began to ride almost as
sity, and it was during this year that she won
soon as she could walk, and at a very young
Vogue magazine's nation-wide Prix de Paris
age she was an active and competent par-
contest which offered the winner a six months'
ticipant in the many horse shows which were
job on Vogue in Paris and a similar time at
important to the social life of the Long Island
the New York editorial offices. She declined
community.
the prize because it meant still more time
Even during these early years Jacqueline's
away from home.
interest in the arts was evident. She began to
In 1952 Jacqueline became inquiring
write poetry and short stories, which she
photographer on the Washington Times
illustrated with her own imaginative draw-
Herald newspaper. The job required skill with
ings. Her interest in the dance was fostered
a professional camera, which Jacqueline soon
by ballet lessons and a library on the subject
acquired, and an ability to stimulate opinions
which she had started when she was very
on topical questions from persons of every
young.
age and walk of life on the local Washington
In 1942 Jacqueline's mother married Hugh
scene.
BOUVIER KENNEDY
D. Auchincloss, and their winter home be-
In June 1951 Jacqueline met Senator John
Photograph by Mark Shaw; courtesy of the White
came a handsome estate named Merrywood,
F. Kennedy of Massachusetts at a dinner party.
House.
located in Virginia across the Potomac from
She was then twenty-two and the Senator
Washington, with summers spent at Ham-
was thirty-five. Despite their mutual interest
mersmith Farm in Newport, Rhode Island.
in each other, their courtship was complicated
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY
by the busy careers in which they were in-
who is serving at a time of tense international
dividually involved. More than two years
crises. Her interest in the arts has inspired an
later their large wedding took place at New-
attention to cultural matters never before ex-
port on September 13, 1953.
perienced at the national level. She has de-
After her marriage Jacqueline Kennedy
voted a great part of her time and energy to
adapted herself to the new role of being the
the interests of young people and the en-
wife of one of the Nation's youngest and most
couragement of the arts. As First Lady, she
energetic political figures. Their first child,
has personally arranged for visiting heads of
Caroline, was born in 1957, and the second,
state to be entertained in the White House
John, Jr., was born after John Kennedy's
with programs presented by the finest per-
election to the Presidency in 1960.
formers. Noteworthy too is her continuing
With the inauguration of President John
personal effort to make the White House a
F. Kennedy in 1961, Jacqueline Bouvier
museum of history and decorative arts as well
Kennedy stepped into the most difficult career
as a family residence of elegance and charm.
of the many which have already enriched her
Despite her many private and public in-
life. To the role she has brought beauty, in-
terests Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy today still
telligence, and taste. Her knowledge of lan-
considers her role as wife and mother the
guages and appreciation of world cultures
most important of her many obligations.
have been an invaluable asset to a First Lady
DRESS OF JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY
First Lady of the bite House, 1961-
The white silk dress which Jacqueline Ken-
covering it puffs out like a cloud at the hip-
nedy wore to the inaugural ball on January
line.
20, 1961, was a striking complement to her
With the dress Mrs. Kennedy wore a floor-
dark hair and eyes and her slim, youthful
length cape of the same silk peau d'ange
figure. The dress was made by designer Ethel
veiled with a triple layer of silk chiffon,
Frankau of the Custom Salon, Bergdorf
which is fastened at the neck with an em-
Goodman, of New York City, based on ideas
broidered frog on the military collar.
and sketches from Mrs. Kennedy. It is made
Her costume was completed with twenty
of white peau d'ange (a very sheer silk, the
buttons, white, glacé kid gloves, and white
French name of which may literally be trans-
silk opera pumps with medium heels. With
lated as "angel's skin") with a bodice em-
this ensemble Mrs. Kennedy wore handsome
broidered in silver thread which is veiled with
diamond pendant earrings.
a sheer white chiffon overblouse.
The dress has a very slim, floor-length skirt
VIV
made of peau d'ange. The silk was veiled with
REFERENCES:
white chiffon giving it a soft shimmering ef-
fect. The collarless, sleeveless blouse, richly
THAYER, MARY VAN RENSSELAER, Jacque-
line Bouvier Kennedy. New York, 1961.
embroidered in metallic silver and brilliants,
Contemporary newspaper and magazine arti-
is fitted, but the transparent full overblouse
cles.
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT LYNDON B. JOHNSON
CLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) TAYLOR JOHNSON
When Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson became First Lady of the United States
in 1963, she told reporters that her role "must emerge in deeds and
not in words" During her administration, the "deeds" prompted many
words to describe the petite brunette First Lady in varying ways such
as "The Great Society's most effective translator", "America's Green
Thumb", and "the symbol of the beautification movement". Warm,
human, and compassionate are phrases that highlighted the descriptions
of Mrs. Johnson.
This is the Mrs. Johnson who emerged through speeches, tree-plantings,
hostessing Heads of State or youth groups at the White House, and some
half a dozen trips on her own each year, into various parts of the
country to urge Americans to make their land more attractive and liveable.
By serving as Honorary Chairman of Project Headstart, she demonstrated
her deep concern with the needs of the small children of the nation. When
the President urged Americans to rally behind a national program of
conservation and beauty, Mrs. Johnson organized a Committee for a
More Beautiful Capital, an example for civic beautification committees
1
throughout the land.
To promote one of the President's important objectives -- a greater
role for women -- she encouraged women to lend a hand in shaping world
understanding. She worked to define the role of women today which she
considered to be "the right to participate fully -- whether in jobs,
professions, or the political life of the community". She felt that her
Claudia Taylor Johnson
-2-
own role was to be preeminently a woman, a wife, a mother, a
thinking citizen.
Mrs. Johnson was born in Karnack, Texas, on December 22, 1912,
the daughter of Thomas Jefferson Taylor, a small town merchant-landowner,
and Minnie Patillo Taylor. The pages of history may list her as
Claudia Alta Taylor, but the First Lady became universally known as
"Lady Bird" or simply "Bird", a name given to her as a child. Mrs. Johnson
received a Bachelor of Arts on 1933 from the University of Texas and
a Bachelor of Journalism in 1934. Shortly thereafter, she met Lyndon
Baines Johnson, Secretary to Texas Congressman Richard Kleberg, and
became his bride on November 17, 1934. She was quickly introduced into
the ways of Washington life and spent the next 26 years in the public
eye as the wife of a Congressman, Senator, and Vice-President. Two
daughters, Lynda Bird and Luci Baines were born during those early years
in Washington. Mrs. Johnson entered the White House with a long record
of having been a partner in the political life of her husband. The two
Johnson daughters were married during their father's Administration with
Lynda's marriage to Charles S. Robb taking place in the East Room of the
White House. Mrs. Johnson left the White House in 1969 and moved back
to the LBJ ranch in Johnson City, Texas with her husband. There she devotes
her time to her home, the Johnson Library and to her financial interest
in the television business. Her first task on leaving the White House
was to work on a book about her years spent there which is titled
White House Diary. It was published in 1970.
Leaflet 72-29
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D.C. 20560
INSTITUTION
CLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) TAYLOR JOHNSON
First Lady, 1963 - 1969
The inaugural ball gown worn by Mrs. Johnson on January 20, 1965,
is made of jonquil yellow double woven satin. The gown, cut with
classic simplicity was designed by John Moore, the American couturier,
and was bought through Neiman-Marcus of Texas. The coat, designed
to be worn with the dress, is of matching fabric and has a standing
collar and three-quarter length sleeves trimmed with natural sable
cuffs. With the gown Mrs. Johnson wore yellow satin pumps, long
white gloves and a single strand of pearls and she carried an envelope
handbag of the dress fabric.
Leaflet 72-35
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
DRESS OF PATRICIA RYAN NIXON
First Lady, 1969 -
On January 20, 1969, Mrs. Richard M. Nixon attended the
Inaugural Ball wearing a mimosa silk satin gown with a long-
sleeve bolero jacket. The gown has a bell-shaped skirt, a
sleeveless bodice, and a small stand-up collar and narrow
cummerbund. The jacket, collar and cummerbund are all heavily
embroidered with Byzantine scrolls of gold and silver bullion
and embellished with hand-set Austrian crystal jewels.
The gown was designed by Karen Stark of Harvey Berin. To
complete the ensemble, Mrs. Nixon wore matching silk shoes,
forearm length gloves, and carried a small matching box handbag.
Leaflet 72-36
Smithsonian Institution
A Bibliography From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
SELECTED READINGS ON THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Brown, Margaret W., The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House,
Washington, 1952. (This is the Smithsonian Institution's own publication
about the famous collection of gowns. Each of the gowns is described
in detail and illustrated in color. Also included are a short biography
and a picture of each First Lady.) (OUT OF PRINT)
Bassett, Margaret, Profiles and Portraits of American Presidents and Their
Wives, Bond Wheelwright Co., Freeport, Me., 1969.
Holloway, Laura C., The Ladies of the White House, Funk & Wagnalls,
New York, 1886.
Jensen, Amy LaFollette, The White House and Its Thirty-five Families,
McGraw-Hill, New York, 1970.
Melick, Arden Davis, Wives of the Presidents, Hammond, Inc.,
New Jersey, 1972.
Sadler, 1948. Christine, America's First Ladies, Hastings House, New York,
BOOKLETS:
The White House: An Historic Guide. Published by the White House
Historical Association, 1634 I Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20006
The Living White House. Published by the White House Historical
Association.
ALSO:
The First Ladies Hall. Published by the
Smithsonian Institution Press, Publications
Distribution Section, Washington, D.C., 1973.
($1.50)
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
THE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
The Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is
one of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and
Technology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's
with Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited
citizens of Washington, D.C. The first dress received for the collection
was the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft, the presiding First
Lady, who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their
descendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses
were soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a
dress representing the administration of every past President of the
United States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each
First Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves
are exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces
are all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied
from a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting
appearance to the entire group.
The collection is installed in a series of eight period settings
that give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of
surroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains
dresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles
in White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are
shown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the
White House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen-
tation of the changes in American period costume from the administration
of President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it
is of great interest to students of costume design.
The collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted
as hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives.
It was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances
did not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that
a relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President.
There are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were
not available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later
administrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.
Leaflet 73-3
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN
Information From the
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560
INSTITUTION
PHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Processing fees for black and white photographs are listed on
the attached photographic services information sheet. The fee
for color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with
a $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides
with a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please
refer all questions concerning photographic orders to the
Photographic Services Division.
Dress worn by:
Negative No.
Slide No.
Martha Washington (Mrs. George Washington)
57614
72-2401
Abigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams)
57615
72-2402
Shawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thomas
Randolph), daughter of President Thomas Jefferson
57616
72-2403
Dolley Madison (Mrs. James Madison)
57617
72-2404
Elizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. James Monroe) Courtesy of the
President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va
57618
72-2405
Marie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur),
daughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the
President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.
57619
72-2406
Louisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)
57620
72-2407
*Emily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson), niece of
President Andrew Jackson
57621
72-2408
Sarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.), wife of
adopted son of President Andrew Jackson
57622
72-2409
Angelica Singleton Van Buren (Mrs. Abram Van Buren),
daughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren
57623
72-2410
*Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), hostess for
President William Henry Harrison
57624
72-2411
Julia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. John Tyler)
57625
72-2412
*Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk)
57626
72-2413
Betty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of
President Zachary Taylor
57627
72-2414
Abigail Powers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)
57628
72-2415
Jane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)
57629
72-2416
-2-
PHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE
Dress worn by:
Negative No.
Slide No.
Harriet Lane, niece of President James Buchanan
57630
72-2417
Mary Todd Lincoln (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)
57631
72-2418
Martha Johnson Patterson (Mrs. David T. Patterson),
daughter of President Andrew Johnson
57632
72-2419
*Julia Dent Grant (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)
57633
72-2420
Lucy Webb Hayes (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)
57634
72-2421
*Lucretia R. Garfield (Mrs. James A. Garfield)
57635
72-2422
Mary Arthur McElroy (Mrs. John McElroy), sister
of President Chester Arthur
57636
72-2423
Rose Cleveland, sister of President Grover Cleveland
57637
72-2424
*Caroline Scott Harrison (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)
57638
72-2425
*Mary Harrison McKee (Mrs. James McKee), daughter of
President Benjamin Harrison
57639
72-2426
Frances Folsom Cleveland (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)
57640
72-2427
*Ida Saxton McKinley (Mrs. William McKinley)
57641
72-2428
*Edith Carow Roosevelt (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)
57642
72-2429
*Helen Herron Taft (Mrs. William Howard Taft)
57643
72-2430
Ellen Axson Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson I)
57644
72-2431
Edith Bolling Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson II)
57645
72-2432
Florence Kling Harding (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)
57646
72-2433
Grace Goodhue Coolidge (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)
57647
72-2434
Lou Henry Hoover (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)
57648
72-2435
*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)
57649
72-2436
*Bess Wallace Truman (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)
57650
72-2437
*Mamie Doud Eisenhower (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)
57651
72-2438
*Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)
57652
72-2439
*Lady Bird Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)
57653
72-2440
*Patricia Ryan Nixon (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)
73315
72-2441
--Compiled by the Division of Political History,
The National Museum of History and Technology,
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, D.C. 20560
*Inaugural dresses
Leaflet 73-1
Smithsonian Institution
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
SIFL-318a
Rev. 2-17-76
Office of Printing and Photographic Services
Customer Services Branch
Washington, D.C. 20560
Photographic Policies and Charges
Effective March 1, 1976
The Customer Services Branch of the Smithsonian's Office of Printing and Photographic Services pro-
vides the public with the opportunity to purchase Smithsonian Institution photographs that have been approved
by curatorial units. If the picture you need is not already in its negative library, items in the Smithsonian
collections, with the approval of the responsible curatorial unit, often may be photographed to your requirements.
DELIVERY. Photographs normally are not kept in stock. They are printed to fill specific orders and thus
cannot be sent on approval. Although every effort will be made to complete your order promptly, the Smith-
sonian's own photographic requirements may take precedence. At least four weeks should be allowed for
delivery. Color, special photography, and large orders may require longer.
REPRODUCTION RIGHTS. Photographs supplied may not be reproduced without specific permission from
the Smithsonian Institution. If you anticipate publishing or other commercial use of Smithsonian supplied
photographs, request a copy of Smithsonian Institution form letter, SIFL-2940-A, "Reproduction Terms and
Fees," and form, SI-2940, "Permission Request."
RESTRICTIONS and LIMITATIONS. Photographic materials shall not be used to show or imply that the Smith-
sonian Institution endorses any commercial product or enterprise, concurs with the opinions expressed in, or
confirms the accuracy of any text used with these photographs.
ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHY. As there is considerable concern for the safety and handling of some of the
national treasures, the decision to permit new photography is in the purview of the responsible curatorial staff.
When it is the opinion of the curator that a sufficient number of photographs are on file, and new photography
is unwarranted, permission for any new photography may be refused. In such instances, requesters will be
limited to a choice of available photographs.
PHOTOGRAPHS ON PREMISES UNAUTHORIZED. No photographs for advertising or any other commercial
purpose may be taken on Smithsonian premises unless officially authorized.
PAYMENT and MINIMUM CHARGES. The minimum fee for any order is $3.50. All orders are sent postage
paid. Advance payment or a purchase order is required. Your check or money order will be deposited on
receipt. It should be made payable to the Smithsonian Institution. If total charges differ from the amount
paid in advance, a bill or refund will be sent to you. Due to the cost involved, $1.00 or less will not be refunded
unless specifically requested.
EDUCATIONAL DISCOUNTS. Students, teachers, and non-profit educational institutions may request a 10%
discount or a quantity discount, whichever is larger. Prepayment of the discounted total must be made with
a short accompanying statement on your school or institution stationary specifying your qualifications for
educational discount and the purpose for which the pictures will be used.
QUANTITY SALES DISCOUNT.
On individual prints of same negative:
5 to 10 prints of same negative
20% discount (on total item)
10 or more prints of same negative
30% discount (on total item)
USE OF OFFICIAL SI PHOTOGRAPHIC ORDER BLANK. All orders must be processed on form SI-318,
"Photo Order." These may be obtained from any unit of the Smithsonian Institution or by writing to the
Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and Photographic Services, Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
D.C. 20560.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. Additional information about our services, charges, or delivery may be obtained
by contacting the Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and Photographic Services, Smithsonian
Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560, telephone (202) 381-5164.
(over)
CHARGES
($3.50 minimum order)
COPIES FROM EXISTING NEGATIVES
Black & White Prints
Color Prints
4" X 5"
$3.50
4" X 5"
$ 7.00
8" X 10"
$3.50
8" X 10"
$10.00
11" X 14"
$7.50
11" X 14"
$20.00
16" X 20"
$8.50
16" X 20"
$30.00
35mm. duplicate of existing color slide (2" X 2")
$ 1.00
(Reduced prices available on certain slide sets)
4" X 5" duplicate color transparency, reproduction quality
$20.00
4" X 5" duplicate negative
Black & White
$ 3.50
Color
$ 7.00
35mm. microfilm, duplicate of existing reel-per frame
$ 0.05
Note: Specify type desired, positive or negative.
Two pages have been placed on each frame when practical.
"Xerox" or other office machine copies from existing negative mircrofilm-per page $ 0.15
ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHIC OR COPY WORK
(Performed to your specifications)
"Xerox" or other office machine copies of manuscripts-per page
$ 0.20
Note: Large orders may be microfilmed first and copies made from the microfilm.
(Allow 8 weeks.)
Original 35mm. negative microfilm of manuscripts-per frame
$ 0.15
Note: Books 8" X 10" or smaller normally can be photographed with 2 pages per
microfilm ($.05 per page).
Original Photography
When ordering new photographs to be taken, remit fee for one hour labor plus
price of photographs. You will be notified prior to work being performed if
our estimate exceeds this amount.
Photographer's rate per hour or fraction thereof
$15.00
(Payment of the labor rate does not grant you exclusive rights or automatic
reproduction privileges.)
Form SI-318 Rev. 11-26-73
Customer, complete only Section C of this form; please type or print-write numbers carefully.
SECTION A
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Organization use only
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PHOTO ORDER
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Captions required:
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Rec'd by
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Ship the below order to me at:
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NOTE: Reproduction rights-Photographs and
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materials on this order may not be reproduced
without prior permission from the SMITHSONIAN
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Please supply the following information: Glossy prints are standard-check here if matte is desired
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requested on this order are for reproduction or resale-Yes
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furnish the following information: Negative numbers and information on this order were obtained from
NOTE: This order form will be returned with your completed order. Additional information concerning your completed order
will be found in Section E below. Information on policies and charges are contained in forms SI-318A and SIFL-2940-A.
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sponding with us concerning this order please refer to our CSB-OPPS job number
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Page data
- Page
- 1
- Source index
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- Type
- document
- Media ID
- 4517e55f20e85743
- Size
- unknown
Document data
- ID
- 1069124
- Core
- doc
- Type
- document
DTO data
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"ocrText": "The original documents are located in Box 2, folder \"1976/06/24 - Gown Presentation,\nSmithsonian Institution\" of the Frances K. Pullen Papers at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential\nLibrary.\nCopyright Notice\nThe copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of\nphotocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material. Gerald Ford donated to the United\nStates of America his copyrights in all of his unpublished writings in National Archives collections.\nWorks prepared by U.S. Government employees as part of their official duties are in the public\ndomain. The copyrights to materials written by other individuals or organizations are presumed to\nremain with them. If you think any of the information displayed in the PDF is subject to a valid\ncopyright claim, please contact the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.\nBetty Ford in the gown going to the Smith-\nsonian's First Ladies Hall, photographed at the\nMay, 1975, White House State Dinner the\nFords gave for the Shah of Iran.\nCut Out\nFor History\nBy Nina S. Hyde\nA green chiffon gown\nMrs. Ford, like other First\nowned by Mrs. Gerald Ford\nLadies, received a letter\nwill be added to the First\nfrom the Smithsonian re-\nLadies Hall in the Smithso-\nnian Institution's Museum\nquesting a gown shortly af.\nof History and Technology\nter she moved into the\nnext week.\nWhite House. Mrs. Ford de-\nChosen because it is one of\ncided to make her donation\nMrs. Ford's favorite colors\nnow so it can be installed\n(soft green) and cuts\nbefore the July 4 peak tour-\n(princess with a stand-\nist weekend.\nup neckline), the gown was\nFor two months the cen-\nworn to the White House\ntral exhibits division of the\nState Dinner for the Shah of\nSmithsonian has been devel\nIran in May, 1975, and on\noping a mannequin to\nother occasions.- Designed\n\"wear\" Mrs. Ford's gown.\nand made for Betty Ford by\nCreated from measurements\nFrankie Welch of Alexan-\nprovided by the White\ndria, the gown is sequined\nHouse and working with a\nchiffon, chosen to simulate\nmuslin of the dress, the\nfabric Mrs. Ford brought\nmannequin will be the same\nhome from China.\nphysical size as Mrs. Ford,\nThe First Ladies Hall. a\nbut will have the same clas-\npopular visitors! attraction,\nsical face of all the other\nis also the most popular COS-\nfigures in the exhibits\ntume collection in the coun-\nMrs. Ford's hairstyle and\ntry.\nshoes have been sculpted\n\"It shares the glamour\nand painted onto the manne-\nthat surrounds the position\nquin. No other accessories\nof the First Lady. It is a\nwill be shown since Mrs.\nvery personal glimpse of the\nFord did not carry a bag\nFirst Lady,\" said Margaret\nwhen she wore the dress.\nKlapthor; curator of the di-\nOften thought to be a col-\nvision of political history at\nlection of inaugural ball\nthe Smithsonian \"That is\ngowns worn by First Ladies,\nwhy it is not in the division\nless than half of the dresses\nof costume and textiles, but\nin the hall were, in fact,\nin the political history sec-\nworn to inaugural balls, ac-\nCOMMUNITY INSTRUCTION\nWASHINGTON.DC\nThe Board of Regents\nThe Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution\nand\nThe Director of the\nNational Museum of History and Technology\nrequest the honor of your presence\nat the presentation of\nA Ball Gown\nby\nMrs. Gerald R. Ford\nto the Collection of the Dresses of the First Ladies\nThursday afternoon, June the twenty-fourth\nNineteen hundred and seventy-six\nat three o'clock\nin the First Ladies Hall\nNational Museum of History and Technology\nConstitution Avenue at Fourteenth Street, Northwest\nWashington City\nPlease present this card\nTHE FIRST LADIES HALL\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nADVUNT\nTHE FIRST LADIES HALL\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nHEFOR EDGE THE\nPER\nSMITHSONIAN PUBLICATION 4640\nWASHINGTON, D.C.\n1965\nTHE STORY OF THE FIRST LADIES HALL\nThe First Ladies Hall in the Museum of History and Tech-\nground and furnishings typical of a certain period or of a single\nnology, Smithsonian Institution, displays a collection of Dresses\nadministration within a period. Changing styles in White House\nof the First Ladies of the White House that shows the changes in\ndecoration are shown in these settings, which are based wherever\nAmerican period costume from the administration of President\npossible on written descriptions and pictorial evidence of the\nWashington to the present day. The first dress received for the\nWhite House.\ncollection was the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft,\nAlso on display in the First Ladies Hall is the most complete\nthen First Lady, who presented it to the National Museum in 1912.\ncollection of White House china outside the Executive Mansion.\nFollowing the example of Mrs. Taft, each subsequent First Lady\nThis collection includes pieces of table service used in every admin-\nhas given a dress.\nistration from the time of George Washington to the present.\nThe collection contains a dress representing the administration\nof every President of the United States. When circumstances did\nnot permit the President's wife to act in the official capacity of\nhostess of the White House, a relative or family friend usually\nperformed the social duties of the position.\nThe dresses are exhibited on plaster mannequins. The faces\nare all sculptured from the same model, but the coiffure of each\nlady has been copied from a picture or portrait to give individuality\nto the figures. Inaugural gowns are designated on the individual\nlabels.\nThe collection is installed in period settings that display the\nThe text of this booklet was prepared by Margaret W. Brown\ndresses in the type of surroundings in which they were originally\nKlapthor, associate curator of political history, U. S. National\nworn. In creating these settings, the Museum has, wherever pos-\nMuseum. Additional copies, priced at 50 cents, may be obtained\nsible, used actual architectural details and furniture and fixtures\nfrom the Editorial and Publications Division, Smithsonian\nassociated with the White House or the representative First Ladies.\nMary Todd Lincoln's gold bracelet\nInstitution, Washington, D.C. 20560.\nSince each setting contains dresses representing a span of several\nwatch with cover of blue enamel\nadministrations, it has been necessary to select a style of back-\nand chip diamonds.\n1787-1809\nWASHINGTON\nADAMS\nJEFFERSON\nTo the left as you enter the First Ladies Hall is a room\nTo the right of the entrance doorway directly across from the\nsetting that presents Martha Washington seated beside her\ndrawing room setting of Washington's High Street residence\ntea table in the second-floor drawing room of the Executive\nin Philadelphia there is depicted a bedroom from the same house.\nMansion at 190 High Street in Philadelphia, the city that was\nThis room setting is presented to show some of the great variety\nthe capital of the United States from 1790 to 1800. The room\nof President and Mrs. Washington's household furnishings now\nis arranged with furniture and accessories that belonged to Presi-\nin the collections of the National Museum. The most important\ndent and Mrs. Washington and were used by them at Mount\npieces are the handsome Chippendale bed, which dominates\nVernon and at their various Presidential residences.\nthe room, and the wing chair that was in President Washington's\nThe mantelpiece is a replica of the drawing room mantel\nbedroom at Mount Vernon. The fine Oriental export porcelain\nin the Philadelphia house, and the rug with the Great Seal\nwater bottle and bowl and the dressing mirror also are from\nof the United States was actually used in that residence. The\nMount Vernon. George Washington used the brass candlestick\nfurniture, silver Argand lamps, porcelains, silver, glass, mirror,\nfor illumination while drafting his Farewell Address to the\nand oil painting were all owned by President and Mrs. Washing-\nNation.\nton. Most of these items are from the collection of Washington\nJust inside a case on the wall beside the wing chair is a\nrelics purchased by the U. S. Government from the heirs of\npair of miniature portraits in oil of George and Martha Wash-\nNelly Custis Lewis in 1883.\nington painted by the American artist John Trumbull. The\nIn this setting are displayed gowns that belonged to Martha\nengraved portrait of the Countess of Huntington on the back\nWashington, to Abigail Adams, and to Martha Jefferson Ran-\nwall is one that she personally sent to George Washington.\ndolph, the daughter of President Jefferson. The dresses are\nThe woodwork used in the room setting is from a 1790 house\nrepresentative of the late 18th century.\nin Kutztown, Pennsylvania.\nAt lower left on this page is shown\na cup and saucer of Martha Wash-\nington's \"States\" china. Names of\nthe fifteen States in 1796 appear\non the rims.\n1809-1829\nMADISON\nMONROE\nADAMS\nThis setting represents a portion of a music room in the\nDisplayed in the room are dresses worn by (from right to\nWhite House as it might have looked during the administra-\nleft) Dolley Payne Madison; Elizabeth Kortright Monroe; Maria\ntion of President John Quincy Adams. A portrait of Mrs.\nMonroe Gouverneur, who lived at the White House with her\nAdams, by Charles Bird King, hangs to the left of the window.\nparents and was married there in 1820; and Louisa Johnson\nMrs. Adams' harp, music stand, and books are in the room.\nAdams. The Dolley Madison dress is the one she wore at the\nThese furnishings, as well as the handsome brocatelle curtains,\nNew Year's Day reception in 1816. Mrs. Benjamin Crownin-\nare from the large Adams-Clement collection of relics from\nshield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, left a contemporary\nthe John Adams and John Quincy Adams families. The piano,\naccount of the dress as \"yellow satin embroidered all over with\nmade by Alpheus Babcock of Boston, is believed to have been\nsprigs of butterflies, not two alike in the dress.\"\nused in the White House during the administration of Presi-\ndent John Quincy Adams. The label on the piano case is one\nof the kind used by Babcock between 1822 and 1829.\nPurple-bordered dessert plate of\nchina of President James Monroe.\nVignettes represent commerce, agri-\nculture, art, science, and welfare.\n1829-1845\nJACKSON\nVAN BUREN\nHARRISON TYLER\nThe setting for this period presents a reception room as it\nmight have looked in the White House during the adminis-\ntration of President Martin Van Buren. The wallpaper was\ninspired by a contemporary description of a White House room\nthat told of \"white paper sprinkled with gold stars and a gilt\nborder.\" The silk Oriental rug was a gift to President Van\nBuren from the Imam of Muscat. The eagle-back side chair\nwas also in the White House during this period. Other fur-\nniture and decorative accessories in the room are of a type that\nwas popular in this country in the early 19th century.\nThe dresses shown (from right to left) are those worn by Emily\nCup and saucer of gray, gold, and\nDonelson, Mrs. Jackson's niece, and by Sarah Yorke Jackson,\nwhite china brought to the White\nwife of the President's adopted son, both of whom served as\nHouse by Angelica Singleton Van\nWhite House hostesses during the Jackson administration; An-\nBuren during the administration of\ngelica Van Buren; Jane Irwin Findlay, hostess for President\nher father-in-law, President Martin\nWilliam Henry Harrison; and Julia Gardiner Tyler, second wife\nVan Buren.\nof President Tyler.\nThe dresses and the decor represent a transition from the Em-\npire to the Victorian styles. The dress of Emily Donelson is the\nearliest inaugural gown in the collection.\n1845-1869\nPOLK\nTAYLOR\nFILLMORE\nPIERCE\nBUCHANAN\nLINCOLN\nJOHNSON\nThe mid-19th century is represented by a Victorian parlor\nthe White House was being renovated during the administration\nreminiscent of a White House room of the period. The wallpaper\nof President Harry Truman. The white marble mantel was orig-\nwas reproduced from a small piece of original White House paper\ninally installed during the administration of President Franklin\nfound under several layers of plaster and paneling secured while\nPierce. The richly carved, laminated rosewood furniture was\nmade by John Henry Belter, a cabinetmaker in New York City\nfrom 1844 to 1863. The silver service on the table belonged to\nMrs. Lincoln.\nDisplayed in this setting are the dresses worn by Sarah\nChildress Polk (at far right) ; Betty Taylor Bliss (at right of win-\ndow), daughter of President Taylor; Abigail Powers Fillmore\n(at left of window) ; Jane Appleton Pierce; Harriet Lane (in\nfront of mantel), niece of President Buchanan; Mary Todd\nLincoln (at left of table) ; and Martha Johnson Patterson, daugh-\nGreen-bordered dessert plate from\nter of President Andrew Johnson. This was the era of the hoop\nthe state china of President James\nskirt in American period costume.\nK. Polk.\n100\nTHE\n1869-1893\nGRANT\nHAYES\nGARFIELD\nARTHUR\nCLEVELAND\nHARRISON\nThis setting shows the Blue Room as it looked during the ad-\nministration of President Ulysses S. Grant. Contemporary photo-\ngraphs show black and gold borders on the walls, similar to the\nones in this setting. The black marble mantel was installed in the\nWhite House during President Grant's administration, but not in\nthe Blue Room. The gold furniture in the setting was purchased\nfor the Blue Room during President James Buchanan's adminis-\ntration and was used in that room until 1902. The rug is an\nadaptation of one shown in the earliest photographs of the Blue\nRoom. A portrait of President Grant by William Cogswell hangs\nover the mantel. The cloisonné vases on the mantel were gifts\nreceived by the Grants during their round-the-world tour.\nIn this setting (from right to left) are dresses of Julia Dent\nGrant; Lucy Webb Hayes; Lucretia Rudolph Garfield; Mary Ar-\nthur McElroy, sister of President Arthur; Rose Elizabeth Cleve-\nland, sister of President Cleveland; and Caroline Scott Harrison\nand her daughter Mary Harrison McKee representing the admin-\nPlate from the service of Limoges\nistration of President Benjamin Harrison. The lavish decorations\nchina made for use in the White\nof the room and the heavily embroidered and beaded dresses\nHouse during the administration of\ncharacterize this period of the bustle.\nPresident Benjamin Harrison.\na\nWI\n1893-1921\nCLEVELAND\nMcKINLEY\nROOSEVELT\nTAFT\nWILSON\nBy the end of the 19th century, the Blue Room had been re-\nExhibited in this setting (from left to right) are the dresses of\ndecorated in a robin's-egg blue, and the style of decoration had\nFrances Folsom Cleveland, Ida Saxton McKinley, Edith Kermit\nchanged to the more sophisticated elegance depicted in this setting.\nRoosevelt, Helen Herron Taft, Ellen Axson Wilson, and Edith\nThe gold furniture purchased in 1859 was still in use, but up-\nBolling Wilson. The beautiful fabrics and elaborate styling of\nholstery fabric had been changed to match the new color. A con-\nthe inaugural ball gowns of Mrs. McKinley, Mrs. Roosevelt, and\ntemporary photograph shows that the door was hung with a cur-\nMrs. Taft are worthy of special attention.\ntain draped in the manner shown in the setting. The two eagle-\nThe dresses worn by the first Mrs. Wilson and the second Mrs.\ndesign glass globes on the front branches of the gas chandelier\nWilson are representative of the transition period between the\nwere used in the White House during this period.\nstylized fashions of the 19th century and the more fluid lines of\nthe 20th century.\nCut crystal water bottle in the \"Rus-\nsian\" pattern from the state crystal\nservice cut for the administration of\nPresident Theodore Roosevelt. This\npattern had been in use in the\nWhite House since the administra-\ntion of President Grover Cleveland.\nto\n1111\nGOOD\nJOY\nFORD\n-\n1921-1965\nHARDING\nCOOLIDGE\nHOOVER\nROOSEVELT\nTRUMAN\nEISENHOWER\nKENNEDY\nJOHNSON\nThe last setting in the series, shown on the cover of this\nThe dresses of Florence Kling Harding (at far right in the\nbook, presents the East Room as it has looked during the 20th\ncover photograph) and Grace Goodhue Coolidge are typical of\ncentury. The wood paneling and pilasters, the two marble man-\nthe flapper fashions worn in the 1920's. Bringing the fashions of\ntels, and one of the gold mirror frames were actually used in the\nour First Ladies up to the present day are the dresses of Lou\nEast Room from the time of the restoration of the White House\nHenry Hoover, Eleanor Roosevelt, Bess Wallace Truman, Mamie\nin 1902 during the administration of President Theodore Roose-\nDoud Eisenhower, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, and Claudia\nvelt until the renovation made during the administration of\n(Lady Bird) Taylor Johnson.\nPresident Truman.\nThe gold Steinway grand piano, given to the White House in\n1903, was used in the East Room until the administration of\nPresident Franklin D. Roosevelt. The gold furniture, used in the\nEast Room during the administration of President Herbert\nHoover, was retired to the National Museum in 1937.\nService plate from the state china\nused in the White House from\nPresident Woodrow Wilson's ad-\nministration to President Herbert\nHoover's administration.\nPROPOSED REMARKS--Des Presentation, Smithsonian Institute,\nJune 24, 1976\nMr. Ripley, I'm delighted to have one of my favorite\ndresses in this very special collection. When I brought\nvisitors to this Hall, never in my wildest dreams did I\nexpect to ever be here myself.\nI've often heard children in the hall point and ask:\nwho is that lady? That's the way I feel today. Surely,\nthe answer isn't Betty Ford. It's going to take a while to\nget used to the idea I could come over to the Smithsonian\nand see myself. I'm very thrilled.\nLike SO many Americans, I've been educated and enter-\ntained by the many wonders of the Smithsonian. I just want\nto say thanks to all who work so hard to keep the Smithsonian\nsuch a fascinating and growing treasure house. You really\nare doing a fabulous job, and I'm very honored to become\npart of the Institute.\n#\n#\n#\nProposed Remarks, Dress Presentation, Smithsonian Institute,\nJune 24, 1976\nMr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my\nfavorite dresses to this very special collection. When\nI brought visitors to the First Ladies Hall, never in\nmy wildest dreams did I expect to be here myself.\nI've often heard a child point and ask: who is\nthat lady? That's the way I feel today, and surely\nthe answer isn't Betty Ford.\nMe\nin a museum. I'm\namazed. It's going to take me a while to get use to\nthe idea I would come over and see myself.\nXM8WXWJXXMX\nI want to thank Cengratulate ml all of you who work so hard to\nkeep the Smithsonian so exciting, I\nentertaining and educat you really are\nknow how many hours of education and entertaindmnt\nThis marvelous complex entertains and educates visitors\ndoing a fabulous job\nfrom all over the world, and I'm very thrilled to be\npart of America's treasure house.\nThank you.\nProposed Remarks, First Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976\nMr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my\nfavorite dresses to this collection. Through the years,\nI've brought many visitors to the First Ladies Hall.\nNever in my wildest dreams did I ever think one of\nmy dresses would be here. This is an honor I never\nexpected, and standing here today\nI still feel surprised to be part\nof this Smithsonian exhibit. It's really quite a strange\nfeeling, but a thrill.\n-0-\nFirst Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976\nMr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one\nof my favorite dresses to this marvelous collection.\nThrough the years, I've brought many visitors\nto the First Ladies Hall. I can just imagine how\nsurprised I would have been at the idea of I would\nsomeday be part of this collection. I certainly\nnever dreamed I would ever be First\nLady, and standing here today I feel just a little\na\nawed at becoming part of *** Smithsonian exhibit.\n-0-\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nNSTITUTION\nTHE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nIN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY\nThe Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is\none of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and\nTechnology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's\nwith Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited\ncitizens of Washington, D.C. The first dress received for the collection\nwas the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft, the presiding First\nLady, who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their\ndescendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses\nwere soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a\ndress representing the administration of every past President of the\nUnited States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each\nFirst Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves\nare exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces\nare all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied\nfrom a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting\nappearance to the entire group.\nThe collection is installed in a series of eight period settings\nthat give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of\nsurroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains\ndresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles\nin White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are\nshown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the\nWhite House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen-\ntation of the changes in American period costume from the administration\nof President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it\nis of great interest to students of costume design.\nThe collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted\nas hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives.\nIt was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances\ndid not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that\na relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President.\nThere are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were\nnot available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later\nadministrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.\nLeaflet 73-3\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDESCRIPTION OF LADIES REPRESENTED IN OUR COLLECTION OF DRESSES\nOF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nNAME\nHEIGHT OF MANNEQUIN\nHAIR\nEYES\nMartha Washington\n5' 5 1/2\"\nBrown\nHazel\nAbigail Smith Adams\n5' 3 1/2\"\nDark Brown\nDark Brown\nMartha Jefferson Randolph\n5' 6\"\nChestnut\nBlue\nDolley Madison\n5' 7\"\nBlack\nBlue\nElizabeth K. Monroe\n5'41/2\"\nBlack\nBlue\nMaria Monroe Gouverneur\n5' 1 1/2\"\nBrown\nBlue\nLouisa Catherine Adams\n5'61/2\"\nBrown\nDark\nEmily Donelson\n5' 4 1/2\"\nAuburn\nBrown\nSarah Yorke Jackson\n5'\nBlack\nDark Brown\nSarah Angelica Van Buren\n5' 9\"\nDark Brown\nDark Brown\nJane Irwin Findlay\n5' 41/2\"\nGray\nBrown\nJulia Gardiner Tyler\n5' 5 1/2\"\nDark Black\nHazel Gray\nSarah Childress Polk\n5'7\"\nDark Black\nDark\nBetty Taylor Bliss Dandridge\n5'2\"\nBrown\nBlue\nAbigail Powers Fillmore\n5' 4 1/2\"\nAuburn\nBlue\nJane Appleton Pierce\n5' 1\"\nDark\nDark\nHarriet Lane Johnston\n5' 8\"\nBlonde\nDark Blue\nMary Todd Lincoln\n5' 4 1/2\"\nBrown\nBlue\nMartha Johnson Patterson\n5' 4 1/2\"\nLight Brown\nBlue\nJulia Dent Grant\n5' 4 1/2\"\nGraying Brown\nHazel\nLucy Webb Hayes\n5' 4 1/2\"\nDark Black\nDark Brown\nLucretia Rudolph Garfield\n5' 3 1/2\"\nBrown\nBrown\nMary Arthur McElroy\n5' 4 3/4\"\nDark\nDark\nRose Elizabeth Cleveland\n5' 3 1/2\"\nDark Brown\nDark Brown\nCaroline Scott Harrison\n5' 3 1/2\"\nGray\nHazel\nMary Harrison McKee\n5'2\"\nBrown\nBrown\nFrances Folsom Cleveland\n5' 6\"\nBrown\nBlue\nIda Saxton McKinley\n5'53/4\"\nGray\nBlue\nEdith Carow Roosevelt\n5' 8\"\nBrown\nGray\nHelen Herron Taft\n5' 7 1/8\"\nGraying Brown\nDark Blue\nEllen Axson Wilson\n5' 6 1/2\"\nGolden Brown\nBrown\nEdith Bolling Wilson\n5' 7\"\nDark Brown\nDark Brown\nFlorence Kling Harding\n5' 5 1/2\"\nGray\nBlue\nGrace Goodhue Coolidge\n5' 8\"\nBrown\nHazel\nLou Henry Hoover\n5' 8\"\nGray\nBlue\nAnna Eleanor Roosevelt\n5' 9\"\nBrown\nBlue\nBess Wallace Truman\n5' 5 1/2\"\nGray\nBlue\nMamie Doud Eisenhower\n5' 5\"\nBrown\nBlue\nJacqueline Bouvier Kennedy\n5' 7\"\nBrown\nBrown\nClaudia Taylor Johnson\n5' 6\"\nDark Brown\nBrown\nPatricia Nixon\n5' 6\"\nBlonde\nBrown\nLeaflet 73-4\nSmithsonian Institution\nFIRST LADIES\nPresidents' Wives and Hostesses\nof the\nWhite House\n#\nY s s\nPhotographic prints (8\"x10\" contact including\nborder) are available for $1.25 each. These reproductions\nare the best available from the portraits in the Library's\ncollections. However, they vary considerably according\nto the quality of the original.\nOrders are subject to a minimum charge of $2.00,\nwith minimum postage fees of $.25 for orders of $10.00 or\nless, and $1.00 for orders over $10.00.\nNegative numbers and names should be given when\nordering prints. Single-weight glossy prints will be\nfurnished unless double-weight semi-matte prints are\nspecified. Address requests and make remittances payable to:\nChief, Photoduplication Service\nLibrary of Congress\nWashington, D. C. 20540\n25-15g\n5\n10\n15\n20\n25\n30\n4\n6\n14\n19\n24\n29\n3\n8\n13\n18\n23\n28\n2\n7\n12\n17\n22\n27\n1\n6\nII\n16\n21\n26\n31\n32\n33\n34\n35\n36\n37\n38\n39\n40\n41\n42\n43\n44\n45\n46\n47\n48\n49\n50\n51\n52\n53\n54\n55\n56\nREGALD\nADMINISTRATION\nFIRST LADIES\nNEGATIVE NUMBER\n1. Washington\n*Martha Dandridge (Custis) Washington\nLC-USZ62-25767\n2. John Adams\n*Abigail Smith Adams\nLC-USZ62-25768\n- Jefferson\nMartha Wayles (Skelton) Jefferson\nNo portrait known\n3\nJefferson\nMartha Jefferson Randolph\nLC-USZ62-25769\n-\nJefferson\nMaria \"Polly\" Wayles Jefferson Eppes\nNo portrait known\n4. Madison\n*Dolley Payne (Todd) Madison\nLC-USZ62-25770\n5. Monroe\n*Elizabeth Kortright Monroe\nLC-USZ62-25771\n6. Monroe\nEliza Monroe Hay\nLC-USZ62-25819\n7. John Q. Adams\n*Louisa Catherine Johnson Adams\nLC-USZ62-25772\n8. Jackson\n*Rachel Donelson (Robards) Jackson\nLC-US262-25773\n9. Jackson\nEmily Tennessee Donelson\nLC-USZ62-25774\n10. Jackson\nSarah Yorke Jackson\nLC-USZ62-25775\n11. Van Buren\n*Hannah Hoes Van Buren\nLC-USZ62-25776\n12. Van Buren\nAngelica Singleton Van Buren\nLC-USZ62-25777\n13. W. H. Harrison\n*Anna Tuthill Symmes Harrison\nLC-USZ62-25820\n- W. H. Harrison\nJane Irwin Harrison\nD.A.R.,Vincennes,Ind\n14. W. H. Harrison\nJane Irwin Findlay\nLC-USZ62-25778\n15. Tyler\n*Letitia Christian Tyler\nLC-USZ62-25779\n16. Tyler\nPriscilla Cooper Tyler\nLC-USZ62-25780\n17. Tyler\nLetitia Tyler Semple\nLC-USZ62-25818\n18. Tyler\n*Julia Gardiner Tyler\nLC-USZ62-25781\n19. Polk\n*Sarah Childress Polk\nLC-USZ62-25782\n-\nTaylor\nMargaret Mackall Smith Taylor\nSpurious portrait\n20. Taylor\nMary Elizabeth \"Betty\" Taylor Bliss (Dandridge)\nLC-USZ62-25783\n21. Fillmore\n*Abigail Powers Fillmore\nLC-USZ62-25784\n22. Fillmore\nMary Abigail Fillmore\nLC-USZ62-25785\n23. Fillmore\n*Caroline Carmichael (McIntosh) Fillmore\nLC-USZ62-25786\n24. Pierce\n*Jane Means Appleton Pierce\nLC-USZ62-25787\n- Pierce\nAbby Kent Means\nNot available\n25. Buchanan\nHarriet Lane (Johnston)\nLC-USZ62-25788\n26. Lincoln\n*Mary Todd Lincoln\nLC-USZ62-25789\n27. A. Johnson\n*Eliza McCardle Johnson\nLC-USZ62-25821\n28. A. Johnson\nMartha Johnson Patterson\nLC-USZ62-25790\n29. Grant\n*Julia Dent Grant\nLC-USZ62-25791\n30. Hayes\n*Lucy Ware Webb Hayes\nLC-USZ62-25792\n31. Garfield\n*Lucretia Rudolph Garfield\nLC-USZ62-25793\n32. Arthur\n*Ellen Lewis Herndon Arthur\nLC-USZ62-25794\n33. Arthur\nMary Arthur McElroy\nLC-USZ62-25795\n34. Cleveland\nRose Elizabeth Cleveland\nLC-USZ62-25796\n35. Cleveland\n*Frances Folsom Cleveland\nLC-USZ62-25797\n36. B. Harrison\n*Caroline Lavinia Scott Harrison\nLC-USZ62-25798\n37. B. Harrison\nMary Scott Harrison McKee\nLC-USZ62-25799\n38. B. Harrison\n*Mary Scott Lord (Dimmick) Harrison\nLC-USZ62-25800\n39. McKinley\n*Ida Saxton McKinley\nLC-USZ62-25801\n40. T. R. Roosevelt\n*Alice Hathaway Lee Roosevelt\nLC-USZ62-25802\n41. T. R. Roosevelt\n*Edith Kermit Carow Roosevelt\nLC-USZ62-25803\n42. Taft\n*Helen Herron Taft\nLC-USZ62-25804\n43. Taft\nHelen Herron Taft (Manning)\nLC-USZ62-25805\n44. Wilson\n*Ellen Louise Axson Wilson\nLC-USZ62-25806\n45. Wilson\nHelen Woodrow Bones\nLC-USZ62-25807\n46. Wilson\nMargaret Woodrow Wilson\nLC-USZ62-25817\n47. Wilson\n*Edith Bolling (Galt) Wilson\nLC-USZ62-25808\n48. Harding\n*Florence Kling (DeWolf) Harding\nLC-USZ62-25809\n49. Coolidge\n*Grace Anna Goodhue Coolidge\nLC-USZ62-25810\n50. Hoover\n*Lou Henry Hoover\nLC-USZ62-25811\n51. F. D. Roosevelt\n*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt Roosevelt\nLC-USZ62-25812\n52. Truman\n*Elizabeth \"Bess\" Virginia Wallace Truman\nLC-USZ62-25813\n53. Eisenhower\n*Mary \"Mamie\" Geneva Doud Eisenhower\nLC-USZ62-25814\n54. Kennedy\n*Jacqueline Lee Bouvier Kennedy\nLC-USZ62-25815\n55. L. B. Johnson\n*Claudia Alta \"Lady Bird\" Taylor Johnson\nLC-USZ62-25816\n56. Nixon\n*Patricia Ryan Nixon\nLC-USZ62-35648\n*Wife\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nU. S. National Museum\nDepartment of Civil History\nWashington, D. C. 20560\nPHOTOGRAPHS OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nBlack and white, 8 by 10 inch photographic prints of First Ladies\nof the White House, as listed below, may be purchased from the Smithsonian\nInstitution, Washington, D. C. 20560, at 90 per print. An additional\n25 cents should be added to each order to cover cost of mailing and\nhandling. Please order by negative number and make remittance payable\nto the Smithsonian Institution.\nMartha Washington, wife of President George Washington, from\nthe oil portrait by John Trumbull\n26483\nLouisa Catherine Adams, wife of President John Quincy Adams,\nfrom the oil portrait by Charles Bird King\n41241\nJane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), family friend and\nhostess for President William Henry Harrison, from\na daguerreotype\n37320\nAbigail Powers Fillmore, wife of President Millard Fillmore,\nfrom a photograph contemporary with her stay in the\nWhite House\n41283\nHarriet Lane Johnston, niece and First Lady for President\nJames Buchanan, from a miniature on ivory by\nJ. Henry Brown\n676-A\nJulia Dent Grant, wife of President Ulysses S. Grant, in a\nfamily scene painted by William Cogswell\n663\nRose Elizabeth Cleveland, sister of and White House hostess\nfor President Grover Cleveland during his bachelorhood,\nfrom a contemporary photograph\n43829\nPhotographs of First Ladies (Presidents' Wives and Hostesses of the\nWhite House) may be obtained from the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.\nFor a list of the negative numbers and instructions for ordering write to\nthe Photoduplication Service, Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. 20540.\nSIL-3 rev.\n10/67\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D.C. 20560\n72-2401\nMARTHA CUSTIS WASHINGTON (Mrs. George Washington)\nFirst Ledy, 1789-1797.\nDress made of salmon-pink ribbed silk with a handpainted\ndesign of wild flowers and insects of North America.\nBrown satin bag made and embroidered by Mrs. Washington.\n72-2402\nABIGAIL SMITH ADAMS (Mrs. John Adams)\nFirst Lady, 1797-1801.\nDark blue Canton crepe dress trimmed with a border of\nChinese embroidery. The brooch contains locks of the\nhair of John Adams, Abigail Adams and their son John\nQuincy Adams.\n72-2403\nMARTHA JEFFERSON RANDOLPH (Mrs. Thomas Mann Randolph)\nDaughter of President Thomas Jefferson and First Lady,\n1801-1809.\nBlack wool shawl with a paisley border. A dress worn by\nMrs. Randolph has not been located.\n72-2404\nDOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON (Mrs. James Madison)\nFirst Lady, 1809-1817.\nYellow satin Empire style dress decorated with Chinese\nembroidery of butterflies, insects and flowers. Worn\nin 1816 to a New Year's Day reception at the White House.\nThe sandlewood fan belonged to Mrs. Madison and the turban\nhead-dress was & costume accessory characteristic of\nMrs. Madison.\n72-2405\nELIZABETH KORTRIGHT MONROE (Mrs. James Monroe)\nFirst Lady, 1817-1825.\nDress of the 18th century sacque style made of cream color\ntaffeta brocaded in a floral design and trimmed with Point\nde Venise lace and fly fringe. A Watteau pleated back and\n& matching underskirt complete the outfit. The topaz\nnecklace was purchased by President Monroe when he was\nMinister to France.\nGERALD ASVUSIT FORD\n72-2406\nMARIA MONROE GOUVERNEUR (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur)\nDaughter of President James Monroe, 1817-1825.\nDress made in France of blue taffeta embroidered with\nwheat straw.\n72-2407\nLOUISA CATHERINE ADAMS (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)\nFirst Lady, 1825-1829.\nLate Empire style dress made of white net over white\nsatin and trimmed with satin bows and silver braid. The\nlinen handkerchief belonged to Mrs. Adams.\n72-2408\n*EMILY DONELSON (Mrs. Andrew Jackson Donelson)\nNiece of President Andrew Jackson and First Lady,\n1829-1836.\nBodice from her Inaugural Ball gown made of gold satin\nbrocaded in rosebuds and violets. The skirt is a\nrestoration decorated with lace owned by the wife of\nPresident Jackson.\n72-2409\nSARAH YORKE JACKSON (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.)\nWife of the adopted son of President Andrew Jackson\nand First Lady, 1836-1837.\nWedding dress made of white satin and mull embroidered in\na white floral design.\n72-2110\nANGELICA SINGLETON VAN BUREN (Mrs. Abram Van Buren)\nDaughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren and\nFirst Lady, 1837-1841.\nBlue velvet dress owned by Mrs. Abram Van Buren. The\ndress is exhibited with its original hoop foundation and\nlace bertha.\n72-2411\n*JANE IRWIN FINDLAY (Mrs. James Findlay)\nMother-in-law of Mrs. William Henry Harrison Jr.\nFamily friend of President and Mrs. William Henry Harrison.\nFirst Lady, 1841.\nInaugural Ball gown made of brown velvet with leg-of-mutton\nsleeves.\n* Denotes Inaugural Dresses\nGERALD FORD\n72-2412\nJULIA GARDINER TYLER (Mrs. John Tyler)\nSecond wife of President John Tyler and First Lady,\n1844-1845.\nDress made of sheer white mull embroidered with silver\nthread and silk floss in a flower design in rainbow colors.\nWorn in 1841 when Miss Gardiner was presented at the\nCourt of Louis Philippe of France.\n72-2413\n*SARAH CHILDRESS POLK (Mrs. James K. Polk)\nFirst Lady, 1845-1849\nInaugural Ball gown made of blue ribbed silk brocaded in\na poinsettia design and trimmed with satin ribbons\nand lace.\n72-2414\nBETTY TAYLOR BLISS DANDRIDGE (Mrs. Philip Dandridge)\nDaughter of President Zachary Taylor and First Lady,\n1849-1850.\nDaytime dress made of greenish-brown grenadine with a plaid\nborder. This dress is the last in the collection to be\nmade entirely by hand.\n72-2415\nABIGAIL POWERS FILLMORE (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)\nFirst Lady, 1850-1853.\nLavender taffeta dress trimmed with matching flounce\nbrocaded in a lavender and white floral design. The\nhandkerchief ring is an interesting costume accessory of\nthe period.\n72-2416\nJANE APPLETON PIERCE (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)\nFirst Lady, 1853-1857.\nDress made of black tulle embroidered with silver thread\nover black taffeta. A tulle and silver jacket and a lace\nand net cap complete the ensemble.\n72-2417\nHARRIET LANE JOHNSTON (Mrs. Henry Elliott Johnston)\nNiece of President James Buchanan and First Lady,\n1857-1861.\nFORD 2 LIBRARY\nWedding gown made of white moire taffeta. The bodice is\ntrimmed with white satin and Rose Point lace.\n72-2418\nMARY 10DD LINCOLN (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)\nFirst Lady, 1861-1865.\nPurple velvet dress piped with white satin and trimmed\nwith black and white lace and net. The matching fan was\nowned by Mrs. Lincoln.\n72-2419\nMARTHA JOHNSON PATTERSON (Mrs. David T. Patterson)\nFirst Lady, 1865-1869\nDaughter of President Andrew Johnson\nWoolen cloak in the style of an Arabian burnous ornamented\nwith gold braid and tassels. A dress worn by Mrs. Patterson\nhas not been located.\n72-2420\n*JULIA DENT GRANT (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)\nFirst Lady, 1869-1877.\nInaugural Ball gown worn in 1873 and made of silver brocade\ngiven to Mrs. Grant by the Emperor of China. The lace\nfichu was worn to the first Inaugural Ball in 1869.\n72-2421\nLUCY WEBB HAYES (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)\nFirst Lady, 1877-1881.\nDress worn to a White House dinner given in honor of the\nGrand Duke Alexis of Russia in 1877. This elaborate dress\nof the bustle period is made of ivory and gold brocaded\ntaffeta and ivory satin with lace, fringe, and bead trimmings.\n72-2422\n*LUCRETIA RUDOLPH GARFIELD (Mrs. James A. Garfield)\nFirst Lady, 1881.\nDress made of lavender-gray satin trimmed with ribbons,\nruching and flounces of Brussels point lace. Worn to the\nInaugural Ball held at the Smithsonian Institution.\n72-2423\nMARY ARTHUR McELROY (Mrs. John McElroy)\nSister of President Chester A. Arthur and First Lady,\n1881-1885.\nSatin damask dress with a morning glory design and trimmed\nwith sequins and steel and jet beads. The original gray\ncolor of the gown has mellowed to an off-white.\nFORD LIBRARY A. GREATO\n72-2424\nROSE ELIZABETH CLEVELAND\nSister of President Grover Cleveland and First Lady,\n1885-1886.\nDress made of garnet silk velvet with panels of pink\nfaille and silver and gold braid trim.\n72-2425\nCAROLINE SCOTT HARRISON (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)\nFirst Lady, 1889-1892.\nInaugural Ball gown of American design and manufacture.\nThe bodice and train are silver gray faille and the front\nskirt panels are silver satin brocaded with a burr oak\ndesign. Between the panels are pleats of apricot-color\nsilk veiled in lace. The dress is trimmed in silver and\ngold fringe.\n72-2426\n*MARY HARRISON McKEE (Mrs. James R. McKee)\nDaughter of President Benjamin Harrison and First Lady,\n1892-1893.\nInaugural gown made of parchment-color satin brocaded with\na goldenrod design in olive and gold. The gold taffeta skirt\npanels and the apple-green velvet neck and sleeve edging are\ntrimmed with amber and silver beads. The underskirt is\napple-green velvet.\n72-2427\nFRANCES FOLSOM CLEVELAND (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)\nFirst Lady, 1886-1889 and 1893-1897.\nDress made of black satin and iridescent taffeta trimmed\nwith jet beads, black sequins, and a black overlay brocade.\nA band of fur borders the skirt.\n72-2428\nIDA SAXTON McKINLEY (Mrs. William McKinley)\nFirst Lady, 1897-1901.\nInaugural Ball gown made of heavy white satin trimmed\nwith pearl embroidery and Rose Point lace.\n72-2429\n*EDITH KERMIT ROOSEVELT (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)\nFirst Lady, 1901-1909.\nDress worn to the Inaugural Ball in 1905. Made of robin's\negg blue satin brocaded with a design of swallows and gold\npin-wheels of ostrich feathers. The painted paper fan\nbelonged to Mrs. Roosevelt.\nGERALD LIVERY\n72-2430\n*HELEN HERRON TAFT (Mrs. William H. Taft)\nFirst Lady, 1909-1913.\nInaugural Ball gown of the Empire revival style made of\nwhite silk chiffon embroidered in Japan. The embroidery\nis 8 pattern of goldenrod in silver thread and crystal\nbeads. Lace trims the bodice.\n72-2431\nELLEN AXSON WILSON (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson)\nFirst Lady, 1913-1915.\nDress made of white velvet brocaded with a rose design\nover an underskirt of white satin and lace. Trimmed\nwith net, rhinestones, steel beads, seed pearls and large\nbaroque pearls.\n72-2432\nEDITH BOLLING WILSON (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson)\nSecond wife of President Woodrow Wilson and First Lady,\n1915-1921.\nDress worn on the trip to the Peace Conference in Paris\nin 1918. The skirt and the tunic overdress are made of\nblack velvet with tulle sleeves and neckline. Trimmed\nwith jet sequins, bead tassels and green beads.\n72-2433\nFLORENCE KLING HARDING (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)\nFirst Lady, 1921-1923:\nDress made of white satin trimmed with net, rhinestones,\ncrystal beads, and baroque pearls. The white satin train\nis trimmed with black net. Worn to a reception at the\nPan American Building in Washington, D.C. soon after the\nInauguration.\n72-2434\nGRACE GOODHUE COOLIDGE (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)\nFirst Lady, 1923-1929.\nRose chiffon velvet dress of the flapper period trimmed\nwith a rhinestone belt.\n72-2435\nLOU HENRY HOOVER (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)\nFirst Lady, 1929-1933.\nPale green satin dress with rhinestone shoulder clips. The\nsilver filigree lorgnette was also owned by Mrs. Hoover.\nSERALD FORD LIBRARY\n72-2436\n*ANNA ELEANOR ROOSEVELT (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)\nFirst Lady, 1933-1945.\nDress worn to the third Inaugural Ball in 1941 and made\nof flesh color satin trimmed with pearls of the same color.\n72-2437\nBESS WALLACE TRUMAN (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)\nFirst Lady, 1945-1953.\nGown made of smoke gray mousseline de soie over light\ngray taffeta and white mousseline de soie. Worn to a\nState dinner given for Queen Juliana of the Netherlands\nin 1952.\n72-2438\n*MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)\nFirst Lady, 1953-1961\nInaugural Ball gown worn in 1953. Made of Renoir pink\npeau de soie embroidered with pink rhinestones. Accompanied\nby matching gloves, shoes and an evening bag trimmed with\npink rhinestones, pearls and beads.\n72-2439\n*JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)\nFirst Lady, 1961-1963.\nInaugural Ball gown and cape made of white peau d'ange\nveiled with white chiffon. The bodice is trimmed with\nsilver embroidery.\n72-2440\nCLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)\nFirst Lady, 1963-1969.\nDress and coat ensemble worn to the Inaugural Ball in 1965.\nMade of jonquil yellow double-woven satin. The coat is\ntrimmed with natural sable cuffs.\n72-2441\n*PATRICIA RYAN NIXON (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)\nFirst Lady, 1969 -\nInaugural Ball gown and Jacket made of mimosa yellow silk\nsatin with the jacket, collar and cummerbund heavily\nembroidered with Byzantine scrolls of gold and silver\nbullion and hand-set Austrian crystal jewels.\n*Inaugural gown\nFORD & LIBRARY DERALD\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nPHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nProcessing fees for black and white photographs are listed on\nthe attached photographic services information sheet. The fee\nfor color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with\na $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides\nwith a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please\nrefer all questions concerning photographic orders to the\nPhotographic Services Division.\nDress worn by:\nNegative No.\nSlide No.\nMartha Washington (Mrs. George Washington)\n57614\n72-2401\nAbigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams)\n57615\n72-2402\nShawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thomas\nRandolph), daughter of President Thomas Jefferson\n57616\n72-2403\nDolley Madison (Mrs. James Madison)\n57617\n72-2404\nElizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. James Monroe) Courtesy of the\nPresident James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.\n57618\n72-2405\nMarie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur),\ndaughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the\nPresident James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.\n57619\n72-2406\nLouisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)\n57620\n72-2407\n*Emily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson), niece of\nPresident Andrew Jackson\n57621\n72-2408\nSarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.), wife of\nadopted son of President Andrew Jackson\n57622\n72-2409\nAngelica Singleton Van Buren (Mrs. Abram Van Buren),\ndaughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren\n57623\n72-2410\n*Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), hostess for\nPresident William Henry Harrison\n57624\n72-2411\nJulia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. John Tyler)\n57625\n72-2412\n*Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk)\n57626\n72-2413\nBetty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of\nPresident Zachary Taylor\n57627\n72-2414\nAbigail Powers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)\n57628\n72-2415\nJane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)\n57629\n72-2416\n-2-\nPHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nDress worn by:\nNegative No.\nSlide No.\nHarriet Lane, niece of President James Buchanan\n57630\n72-2417\nMary Todd Lincoln (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)\n57631\n72-2418\nMartha Johnson Patterson (Mrs. David T. Patterson),\ndaughter of President Andrew Johnson\n57632\n72-2419\n*Julia Dent Grant (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)\n57633\n72-2420\nLucy Webb Hayes (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)\n57634\n72-2421\n*Lucretia R. Garfield (Mrs. James A. Garfield)\n57635\n72-2422\nMary Arthur McElroy (Mrs. John McElroy), sister\nof President Chester Arthur\n57636\n72-2423\nRose Cleveland, sister of President Grover Cleveland\n57637\n72-2424\n*Caroline Scott Harrison (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)\n57638\n72-2425\n*Mary Harrison McKee (Mrs. James McKee), daughter of\nPresident Benjamin Harrison\n57639\n72-2426\nFrances Folsom Cleveland (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)\n57640\n72-2427\n*Ida Saxton McKinley (Mrs. William McKinley)\n57641\n72-2428\n*Edith Carow Roosevelt (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)\n57642\n72-2429\n*Helen Herron Taft (Mrs. William Howard Taft)\n57643\n72-2430\nEllen Axson Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson I)\n57644\n72-2431\nEdith Bolling Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson II)\n57645\n72-2432\nFlorence Kling Harding (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)\n57646\n72-2433\nGrace Goodhue Coolidge (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)\n57647\n72-2434\nLou Henry Hoover (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)\n57648\n72-2435\n*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)\n57649\n72-2436\n*Bess Wallace Truman (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)\n57650\n72-2437\n*Mamie Doud Eisenhower (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)\n57651\n72-2438\n*Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)\n57652\n72-2439\n*Lady Bird Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)\n57653\n72-2440\n*Patricia Ryan Nixon (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)\n73315\n72-2441\n--Compiled by the Division of Political History,\nThe National Museum of History and Technology,\nSmithsonian Institution\nWashington, D.C. 20560\n*Inaugural dresses\nLeaflet 73-1\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT GEORGE WASHINGTON\nMARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON\nMartha Dandridge was born on a large plantation on the Pamunkey River in\nVirginia on June 21 of the year 1731. She was the oldest child of Colonel\nJohn Dandridge and Frances Jones Dandridge.\nMartha had no formal education, but until she was 15 years old her days\nwere filled with lessons in housekeeping, music, dancing and sewing. She\nentered society in the town of Williamsburg at the age of 15 and was a reigning\nbelle until she married Daniel Parke Custis, a wealthy planter with a fortune in\nlands, slaves and money, in 1749. At his death a few years later, Martha was left\na wealthy widow with two small children.\nA year after the death of her husband, Martha Custis first met Colonel\nGeorge Washington, just returned from the Braddock campaign and already well known\nand respected in his native state. They were married in 1759. The bride is\ndescribed at this time as short, slight with brown hair and brown eyes.\nGeorge Washington and his wife, Martha, with the two young Custis children,\nsettled down at Mount Vernon where they lived the leisurely attractive life\ncustomary of the Virginia planter. Their home became famous throughout Virginia\nfor its hospitality, with Martha as its hostess.\nAt the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, George Washington became the\ngeneral of the Continental Army and Martha Washington began her life\nas wife of a public servant. She followed her husband into camp\nMartha Dandridge Custis Washington\npage 2\nduring the long winters of the war, returning to Mount Vernon during\nthe summer campaigns. Her dignity and courage were an inspiration\nto her husband and his troops and she contributed materially to\nthe comfort of the small army whenever she was in camp.\nGeneral and Mrs. Washington returned to Mount Vernon at the end\nof the war to resume the quiet, leisurely life they enjoyed at their\nhome. But again Washington was called to serve his country, and\nMartha Washington became the wife of the first President of the\nUnited States. Lacking precedent for her manner of entertaining,\nMrs. Washington settled many questions of official etiquette with\ncommon sense and dignity. She received her guests seated at her weekly\nreceptions, and it is thus we find her presented in our collection.\nAccounts of Mrs. Washington describe her as a short person, with white\npowdered hair, wearing fine clothes of satins, silks, and velvets, who\nhad the ability to give a homelike charm to the most formal occasion.\nMartha Washington was not sorry to step down from her position after\neight years, as, she had felt as First Lady \"more like a state\nprisoner than anything else.\"\nThe last years of her life were spent at Mount Vernon, surrounded\nby her husband and grandchildren but acting even then as a gracious\nhostess for the many visitors who came to pay their respects to her husband.\nThe three years of her life which followed the death of George Washington\nwere spent at Mount Vernon in virtual retirement, and she was laid to\nrest at his side in 1802.\nLeaflet 72-24\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDRESS OF MARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON\nFirst Lady 1789-1797\nThe dress which was worn by Martha Washington, the first of our\nPresidential Hostesses, is made of faille in the more conservative\nstyle of the late eighteenth century. It has a voluminous skirt and a\ntightfitting bodice which laces down the back. The low neckline of the\ndress is edged with an inch width of fine lace. Around the shoulders of\nthe figure is a soft, white shawl of Mechlin lace, and she wears lace\nmitts on her hands. As Mrs. Washington was accustomed to wearing a\n\"Mob Cap\" to all social functions, she is represented in this collection\nwith one of white lace on her head.\nThe material of this dress, which was probably purchased in London,\nis salmon pink in color and the faille is hand-painted with a black-white\nribbon chain which forms medallion spaces all over the dress. Each\nmedallion is joined to the next with a emerald green square. In the larger\nof the medallions are painted native wild flowers of North America--the\nviolet, buttercup, daisy, morning-glory, arbutus; and in the smaller\nspaces are painted insects such as the grasshopper, spider, fly, ladybug\nand the wasp.\nMrs. Washington holds in her hands a brown satin bag which she made\nand which is embroidered in ribbon work. The name \"Mrs. Washington\"\nin old-fashioned script is worked across the front of the bag.\nLeaflet 72-30\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nNSTITUTION\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JAMES MADISON\nDOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON\nDolley Payne was born in 1772 in North Carolina, the second\nchild of John and Mary Coles Payne of Virginia ancestry. In 1783,\nwhile Dolley was still a little girl, her father joined the Society\nof Friends and moved his family to Philadelphia to enable his\nchildren to participate in the educational and religious benefits\navailable in the city of the Quakers. In Philadelphia, Dolley\nwas brought up in the strict discipline of the society and her maturing\nbeauty was hidden in the somber dress of the Quakers. But the discipline\nand Quaker dress did not conceal the happy personality and warm heart\nwith which nature had blessed Dolley Payne. She married another young\nQuaker when she was nineteen years old - John Todd, a rising lawyer\nin Philadelphia. For three short years she lived the quiet secluded\nlife of a Quaker wife and mother, and then in 1793 John Todd died in\na yellow fever epidemic leaving Dolley a widow with a small son.\nMeanwhile Philadelphia had become the capital of the newly formed\nUnited States and Philadelphia streets were crowded with strangers,\nthe great and near great concerned with the management of the country.\nNo wonder the young widow attracted attention, as she is described as having\nlaughing Irish blue eyes, curling black hair, and warm-hued skin.\nShe attracted none other than the \"great little Madison\", one\n-2-\nof the most talented members of the Congress and a statesman of\nwealth and social position. They were married in 1794 at the residence\nof Dolley's young sister in Virginia. The bride was 23 at that time,\nand her husband was over 20 years older. The wedding took place with\nthe approval and best wishes of President and Mrs. Washington and other\nleaders of the young country who were particularly interested in\nMr. Madison's career.\nDolley, her young son and new husband went immediately to\n\"Montpelier\", the Madison estate in Virginia, where they lived a quiet,\nleisurely life until 1801, when James Madison was called to Washington\nto be Secretary of State for President Thomas Jefferson. Already Dolley's\npopularity was established with her Virginia kin and the trip to\nWashington included visits at many of the homes at which she was so\nwelcome. In Washington the Madison home quickly became the center of\nsociety for that gay city. Blessed with a desire to please and a\nwillingness to be pleased, she was soon loved by everyone and political\nquarrels were soothed by her gracious tact.\nAs President Jefferson's daughters were often not available to\nhostess at the White House, Mrs. Madison presided over many of the\nreceptions and formal dinners and Mr. Jefferson greatly depended on her\nfor assistance. In 1809 James Madison succeeded Jefferson as President\nand Dolley Madison moved into the White House as First Lady. The eight\nyears of the administration which followed were years of stately gaiety\nand a perpetual round of parties. Dolley was 37 years old, still\nyoung in appearance and well accomplished in social knowledge.\nDolley Payne Todd Madison\n- 3 -\nShe had discarded Quaker dress many years before and she now dressed\nhandsomely and \"in the mode\". Mrs. Margaret Bayard Smith, entertaining\nchronicler of early Washington society, writes of her as follows:\n\"She looked like a Queen\nIt would be absolutely impossible for\nanyone to behave with more perfect propriety than she did. Unassuming\ndignity, sweetness and grace. She really in manner and appearance\nanswered all my ideas of royalty\".\nDolley Madison's popularity withstood the increasing political\nanimosities of the last administration of her husband and the troubled\nyears of the War of 1812. Though she was forced to flee from the\nWhite House before an invading army, she returned to the city and the\nadministration closed in a blaze of social glory.\nThe Madisons returned to Montpelier and lived there until the\ndeath of President Madison in 1836. The next winter Dolley Madison\nreturned to Washington and again her home became one of the centers of\nsociety in that city. She retained her great popularity to the end of\nher life, and she died loved and respected by all in 1849.\nThe record made by the delightful personality of this unusual\nwoman has endured even to this day. She remains for each generation\none of the best known and best loved First Ladies of the White House.\nLeaflet 72-25\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDRESS OF DOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON\nFirst Lady, 1809-1817\nDolley Madison wore this dress in 1816 at a New Year's Day\nreception held in their temporary home in Washington, D. C., at\n19th and Pennsylvania Avenue, N. W. during the reconstruction of\nthe White House. Her dress was described by Mrs. Benjamin\nCrowninshield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, as \" yellow\nsatin embroidered all over with sprigs of butterflies, not two\nalike in the dress; a narrow border in all colors; made high-\nin-the-neck; a little cape, long sleeves and a white bonnet with\nfeathers.\" The exquisite multicolor Chinese embroidery also includes\ninsects and flowers. This dress exemplifies the Empire style\nworn in the United States in the first quarter of the 19th Century.\nLeaflet 72-31\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT ABRAHAM LINCOLN\nMARY TODD LINCOLN\nMary Todd was born in Lexington, Kentucky in 1818, daughter of pioneer\nsettlers of the Blue Grass State. Her father, Robert Smith Todd, was a\nleading citizen of his community. Her mother died when Mary was 7, and\nher father married again in a short time. Mary had the advantages of a nice\nhome and pleasant social life and she was well educated in private schools.\nAs she grew up, she was described by her companions as \"vivacious, nervous,\nimpulsive, excitable, with a charming personality, marred only by cutting\nsarcastic wit which cut deeper than she intended\". It was said that she\nhad clear blue eyes, long lashes, light brown hair with a glint of bronze,\nand a lovely complexion.\nWhen Mary Todd was 21 years old she went to Springfield, Illinois to live\nwith her sister, Mrs. Ninian Edwards. Here she met Abraham Lincoln, and two\nyears later after a stormy courtship and broken engagement, they were married.\nThough the two were opposite in many ways, there was always between them the\nstrong tie of their mutual ambitions. The years in Springfield brought hard\nwork, a family of boys, and reduced family circumstances to the pleasure-loving\ngirl who had never felt responsibility before. Under the stress, there\nappeared the first signs of mental disability that in later years changed her\nwhole personality.\nAdministration of President Abraham Lincoln\n-2-\nThe Lincoln's first home was a room in a boarding house in Springfield.\nAfter a year there, and another year in a rented home, they moved into a\nmodest house of their own, the famous house on 8th Street, in which they\nlived until they left Springfield in 1861.\nIn 1846 Abraham Lincoln was elected to Congress and Mary and the\nchildren spent a winter with him in Washington. It was her first taste of\nWashington social life although, as wife of a poor Congressman from the\nWest with two small children, there was not much opportunity for her to\nenjoy it. Lincoln returned to his law practice in Springfield after the\nnext election.\nHe was back in politics in 1858, helping to form the new Republican\nparty and he ran in the Illinois Senatorial race that year against\nStephen Douglas. Though Lincoln lost the election, he made some valuable\ncontacts and the series of debates, to which he had challenged Douglas, made\nhim well known both in the party and in the nation. In 1860 Abraham Lincoln\nwas chosen as Republican nominee for President of the United States and he\nwon the election. The faith of the young Mary Todd in the future of the man\nshe had chosen as her husband was amply justified.\nThe years Mrs. Lincoln spent in the White House were not happy ones,\nthough the position fulfilled her high social ambitions. It was not easy\nfor the woman who had been Mary Todd of Kentucky to make a place in Washington\nduring the Civil War years, despite her ample social qualifications, because\nin a city of Southerners she was scorned as a traitor to her Southern birth.\nDomestic bereavement and the horrors of war robbed the White House of many\nAdministration of President Abraham Lincoln\n-3-\nsocial pleasures. Apparently to compensate for the frustrations of her\nsocial life, Mrs. Lincoln started an orgy of spending which lasted for the\nwhole four years and for which she was widely criticized.\nWhen President Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, Mary Todd Lincoln was\nshattered in mental and physical health and the next 17 years held nothing\nbut sorrow for her. With her son Tad she traveled constantly in search of\nhealth and peace of mind, tortured with distorted ideas of her financial\nsituation. After Tad's untimely death in 1871, she slipped over into a\nworld of illusion in which she was always pursued by fear of poverty and\nassassination. A misunderstood and tragic figure, she passed away in 1882\nat her sister's home in Springfield, Illinois, the same house from which\nshe had walked as the bride of Abraham Lincoln, 40 years before.\nLeaflet 72-26\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDRESS OF MARY TODD LINCOLN\nFirst Lady, 1861-1865\nThe dress of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln is made of royal purple velvet\nwith the tight bodice and full skirt of the hoop-skirt period.\nMrs. Lincoln's fondness for clothes is displayed in the excellent\ntasteshe used in selecting her wardrobe. Shades of lavender and\npurple were her favorite colors and this dress is of a deep, rich\nhue. The seams of the dress, skirt and bodice, the hem of the skirt,\nand the bottom of the bodice are piped with narrow white satin cord.\nThe neck of the dress is trimmed with an elaborate fichu of black\nAlencon lace with a white edge and the short puffed sleeves are made\nof white net and Alencon lace.\nAccompanying this dress is a fan made of purple taffeta and a\npurple parasol, which was carried with the dress, is also displayed\nin the case. The parasol was an indispensible accessory of dress of\nthe period and seldom did a lady go for a promenade or a drive without\nher tiny parasol.\nThe wreath of flowers which encircles the head of Mrs. Lincoln's\nfigure recalls her favorite style of coiffure.\nLeaflet 72-32\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nADMINISTRATION OF CALVIN COOLIDGE\nGRACE GOODHUE COOLIDGE\nGrace Goodhue was born in Burlington, Vermont in 1879 the daughter of\nAndrew and Lemira B. Goodhue. Her childhood, that of an only child, was\nuneventful in the little Green Mountain town. It was at this time she first\nheard of a school for teaching deaf children in Northampton, Massachusetts\nfrom one of her father's friends and she determined to share this charitable\nwork. Toward this end she attended the University of Vermont, from which she\ngraduated in 1902 with her degree. She went to Northampton that same year\nto teach at the Clarke School for the Deaf.\nCalvin Coolidge met Grace Goodhue when she was a teacher at Clarke\nSchool, when she was just in her early twenties, a lovely girl. They met\ncasually, went to the same boating, picnicking, dancing, whist-club set,\ncomposed largely of members of the Congregational Church. They became engaged\nin the early summer of 1905 and were married in October. For nearly a\nyear the Coolidges lived in a boarding house, then they moved into half of a\ndouble house two weeks before their first baby was born. Mrs. Coolidge ran\nthe little house herself, doing all her own housework, and she budgeted\nhousehold expenses well within the income of a struggling young lawyer in a\nsmall town.\nTo Grace Coolidge may be credited a full and proper share in her husband's\nrise in politics. She worked hard, kept up appearances, did her part in\nGrace Goodhue Coolidge\n-2-\ntown activities, attended her church and played the game of the politician's\nwife. She supplemented her husband's natural shyness with a gay friendliness\nand managed the social life of the small family to offset the lack of social\ngraces enjoyed by Mr. Coolidge.\nFour years later another son was born to the Coolidges, while Calvin\nCoolidge was Mayor of Northampton. While he was a member of the State\nLegislature and State Senate, and later as Lieutenant Governor, the Coolidge\nfamily remained in their small home in Northampton, while Calvin rented a\ndollar and a half room in Boston and came home on weekends. When he was\nelected Governor, he continued to follow the same routine, as Massachusetts\nwas without an executive residence. On high days and holidays, Mrs. Coolidge\ncame down to Boston, but for the most part she remained in Northampton with\nher boys.\nThey were still living in their duplex apartment in Northampton when\nthey went to Washington in 1921, when Calvin Coolidge was elected Vice President\nof the United States. As wife of the Vice President, Grace Coolidge went\nfrom the quiet life of a housewife to which she was accustomed into the\ncomplexity of Washington social life, and she adapted herself SO quickly that\nshe became the most popular woman in the nation's capital. Much of her\npopularity was due to her warm friendliness, her zest for life, and her innate\nsimplicity. She was quite a pretty woman, with sparkling brown eyes and\nbrown hair, a nice figure, and a pleasant smile.\nWith the death of President Harding in 1923, Grace Goodhue Coolidge\nbecame the wife of the President of the United States and the First Lady of\nGrace Goodhue Coolidge\n-3-\nthe White House. The social life of the White House instituted by Mrs. Coolidge\nwas simple but dignified. Her time and her friendliness now belonged to the\nnation and she was generous with both. Even under the sorrow of the sudden\nand tragic death of her youngest son at the age of 14, she remained strong\nand heroic, never allowing her personal grief to interfere with her duties\nas First Lady. Her charm, tact and gaiety made Mrs. Coolidge one of the\nmost popular hostesses of the White House, and she left Washington in 1929\nwith the nation's respect and love.\nWhen the Coolidges left the White House they returned to their duplex\nhouse in Northampton. Mrs. Coolidge resumed her church activities, was\nassociated with the Red Cross and other organized community enterprises.\nThey later bought a large house on the outskirts of the town, a place known\nas \"The Beeches\". In 1931 Mrs. Coolidge was voted one of America's greatest\nliving women, and she was presented a gold medal by the National Institute\nof Social Sciences for her \"fine personal influence exerted as First Lady of\nthe Land\". Calvin Coolidge died at \"The Beeches\" in 1933.\nMrs. Coolidge maintained her home on the outskirts of Northampton until\nher death in 1957.\nLeaflet 72-27\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIA\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDRESS OF MRS. CALVIN COOLIDGE\nFirst Lady, 1923 - 1929\nThe dress which represents the administration of Calvin Coolidge in the\ncollection is typical of the style of the period in which the dress was worn.\nThe only representative of the flapper period in the First Ladies' collection,\nMrs. Coolidge's dress always causes much comment among visitors to the Museum.\nThe bodice of the dress is perfectly plain with a low neckline and with\nthe waistline lowered almost to the hips. The low waistline is encircled by a\nrhinestone belt which buckles at the front of the dress. The bodice blouses\nout a bit at the waist. The skirt is made of three tiers of velvet. The\npointed train, which is yards long from the shoulder straps, adds to the formal\nappearance of the dress.\nThis dress is one of the most typical of the period of fashion it\nrepresents in the whole collection. American women, at this time, dressed\nin short dresses for all occasions and evening dresses did not become ankle\nlength again until the 1930's. Mrs. Coolidge's good taste is displayed in\nthe truly lovely quality and color of the rose chiffon velvet out of which\nthe dress is made. The slippers which were worn with the dress are of the\nsame rose velvet with gold heels and rhinestone buckles. Mrs. Coolidge placed\nher Pi Beta Phi Sorority pin upon the left breast of the figure soon after the\ndress was installed in the case.\nIn 1945 Mrs. Coolidge sent to the Museum a string of pearls and an\necru lace handkerchief to improve the installation of the dress.\nLeaflet 72-33\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT\nANNA ELEANOR ROOSEVELT\nAnna Eleanor Roosevelt was born in New York City in 1884. She was the\ndaughter of Elliott Roosevelt, a younger brother of President Theodore Roosevelt,\nand Anna Hall. Eleanor was early handicapped by a lack of beauty and an\nawkward shyness which set her apart from her distinguished, elegant and charming\nfamily. When her mother died in 1892, the children went to live with Grandmother\nHall and her father died only two years later. From that time young Eleanor's\ncompanions were her aunts and uncles, years older than she, without much\ncompanionship of children her own age. Most of her elementary education was\nreceived at home, and when she was 15 she was sent to school in England. It was\nEleanor's first chance to develop without the constant supervision of her family.\nHer confidence grew with her contact with other girls and she learned to widen\nher activities and interests until she became interested in everyone and\neverything.\nThe return to America after graduation brought Eleanor back to a life\ncircumscribed by the interest of New York society - a life in which she found\nlittle interest and pleasure. Among her few close friends was a distant cousin,\nFranklin Delano Roosevelt, whom she remembered from childhood parties. In the\nAutumn of 1903, when Eleanor was nineteen, she and Franklin became engaged.\nFORD is GREATO\nAnna Eleanor Roosevelt\n-2-\nThey were married in 1905 while Franklin was a law student at Columbia University.\nThe first years of married life were spent with Franklin Roosevelt's mother in\nHyde Park.\nIn 1910 Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected to the New York State Senate,\nand his family moved to Albany for sessions of the legislature. Here Eleanor\nstarted her long career as political helpmate of her husband, and home became\na center for Roosevelt's political associates. The years in Albany gave her\npractice for the political life of Washington when her husband became Assistant\nSecretary of the Navy in 1913. When. the World War began in 1917, in addition\nto her home duties, the care of her children, and her social life, Mrs. Roosevelt\ndevoted long hours to volunteer war work.\nIn 1921 Franklin Roosevelt was stricken with poliomyelitis, and all of\nMrs. Roosevelt's energy and time were devoted to her husband's care. In an\neffort to awaken his interest in politics again, she became active in the women's\ndivision of the State Democratic Committee and also became an essociate member\nof the Women's Trade Union. Meanwhile, her days were busy caring for her family\nof five children and seeing that their life remained normal despite their\nfather's illness.\nWith his wife's encouragement, Franklin Roosevelt again entered politics\nand was elected Governor of New York in 1928. From that day to the day of his\ndeath, Mrs. Roosevelt's life was dedicated to helping her husband, and she\nd\nFORD\nGERALD\nbecame eyes, ears, and legs for him, a trusted and tireless reporter. Her own\nsocial work continued with the establishment of the Val Kill furniture factory\nat Hyde Park to give employment to men of the neigbborhood, and she became at\nthe same time part owner, vice principal, and teacher at Todhunter School for girls.\nAnna Eleanor Roosevelt\n-3-\nWhen Mrs. Roosevelt came to the White House in 1933, she understood the\nsocial conditions of the country better then any former First Lady. She had\ndeveloped a social consciousness, from her work in New York State, which resulted\nin an eagerness to work and aid in the correction of poor social conditions. As\nthe wife of the President, she traveled to all parts of the country to bring\nher husband useful information and became interested in every phase of social\nreform. She kept in touch with the people of the country through a daily\nsyndicated column, \"My Day\", in which she expressed her opinions on every subject.\nThis made her a tempting target for enemies of her husband, but her integrity, her\ngraciousness, and her sincerity of purpose endeared her personally to thousands\nof persons all over the globe.\nShe did not shirk official entertainments at the White House and until\nthe war year of 1941 she entertained at teas, receptions, and state dinners\nwith the charming friendliness and experience acquired during her husband's\ndistinguished career.\nDuring World War II Eleanor Roosevelt's duties included an official position\nas assistant director of the Office of Civilian Defense, expeditions to visit\nservice men on two war fronts, and acting hostess of the White House during\nvisits from political and military leaders of our allies.\nMrs. Roosevelt left the White House in 1945 after her husband's death and\nreturned to a small home which she maintained on the Hyde Park estate. From there\nshe continued to be influential in many reform movements. In 1945 she was\nappointed U.S. representative in the general assembly of the United Nations and\nB.\nFORD\nSERVICE\nLIBRARY\nAnna Eleanor Roosevelt\n-4-\nlater became chairman of the Commission for Human Rights. In addition to her\ndaily newspaper column, Mrs. Rooseyelt published several books telling the\nstory of her life and her husband's career.\nEleanor Roosevelt died on November 7, 1962, in New York City and was\nburied beside her husband at Hyde Park. President Kennedy and former\nPresidents Eisenhower and Truman were at her burial, an honorable testimonial\nto Mrs. Roosevelt's humanitarian contributions.\nLeaflet 72-28\nSmithsonian Institution\nFORDS 12 07/30 LIBRARY\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nDRESS WORN BY MRS. FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT\nFirst Lady, 1933 - 1945\nMrs. Roosevelt is represented in our collection by her third\ninaugural gown, a regal looking dress made of warm tinted satin.\nThe color of this gown varies from ivory to a deep peach color,\naccording to the light in which it is viewed. The skirt is cut on\nthe bias with a drape in the center front. The sweetheart neckline\nof the gown and its intricately cut sleeves are trimmed with pearls\ntinted to match the material of the dress. A double train from the\nshoulders, narrow at the top and widening to several yards at the hem,\nfalls into the full skirt of the gown to drape into folds like one\nsingle voluminous train. The simple, pleasing lines of this modern\ndress make it worthy of comparison with the finest of the period\ncostumes.\nLeaflet 72-34\nSmithsonian Institution\nGERALD FORD LIBRARY\nTHE GOWN OF MRS. DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER\nas displayed in the\nUnited States National Museum\nSmithsonian Institution\nBy MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR\n[Supplement to \"The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House,\" by\nMargaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.]\nWASHINGTONIANS\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\n1958\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER\nMAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER\nM\nAMIE GENEVA DOUD, the second child\nup the ladder for her husband, with increas-\nof John Sheldon Doud and Elivera\ning duties and responsibilities for her. Their\nCarlson Doud, was born on November 14,\nfirst child, a son, who was born in San An-\n1896, in the town of Boone, Iowa, where her\ntonio in September 1917 and named Doud\nfather was in the livestock commission busi-\nDwight, died of scarlet fever in 1921 when\nness. When she was nine months old the\nthe Eisenhowers were stationed at Camp\nfamily moved to Cedar Rapids, where she\nMeade, Md. The second boy, John Sheldon\nspent her earliest childhood and started\nDoud Eisenhower, was born in Denver in\nschool.\n1922 during his father's tour of duty in\nIn 1904, when Mamie was still a little girl,\nPanama.\nher father retired and the family moved to\nBy 1941 Eisenhower was a colonel, and\nPueblo, Colo., settling in Denver in 1905\npromotions came quickly after the war\nin a substantial brick house on Lafayette\nstarted. During her husband's duty at the\nStreet. Mamie received her elementary edu-\nPentagon early in the war, Mamie moved to\ncation at a public school and then attended\nWashington. When he went overseas to as-\nMiss Walcott's, a private school for the\nsume the command of the European Theater\ndaughters of Denver's families.\nof Operations, she took a small apartment in\nIn 1910 Mr. and Mrs. Doud took the fam-\nthe Capital for the duration of the war.\nily to San Antonio, Tex., for the winter, in\nThe Eisenhowers remained in the Wash-\nthe hope that the milder climate would be\nington area until his retirement from the\nbeneficial to Mamie's older sister. They liked\nArmy in 1948. They then spent two years in\nthat city so well that they took a house there\nNew York while General Eisenhower served\nfor their winter residence. It was in San An-\nas President of Columbia University. It was\ntonio in October 1915 that Mamie Doud met\nduring this period that they purchased the\nDwight D. Eisenhower, a young second lieu-\nfarm at Gettysburg, Pa., which was the first\ntenant who was serving his first tour of duty\nhome they had ever owned and a source of\nat Fort Sam Houston. She was a pretty and\njoy and relaxation to them during the ensu-\npopular young girl of eighteen. It was not\ning years.\nlong, however, until \"Ike\" Eisenhower was a\nIn January 1951 General Eisenhower was\nfavorite not only with Mamie but with her\nassigned the command of NATO forces in\nfamily, too, and on St. Valentine's Day 1916\nFrance. Mamie was again confronted with\nthey became officially engaged. They were\nthe problem of making a home in a foreign\nmarried at the Doud home in Denver on July\ncountry. At the villa at Marnes La Coquette\n1, 1916.\nshe assumed the duties of hostess to promi-\nFor many years Mamie Eisenhower's life\nnent people from all over the world and had\nUD EISENHOWER\nfollowed the pattern of other Army wives, at\nher first experience at entertaining according\nThe dress Mrs. Eisenhower is wearing in this\na succession of Army posts in the continental\nto diplomatic protocol.\nhotograph is her second inaugural gown. Photo-\nUnited States, and duty in Panama, France,\nThis was excellent practice for the next\ngraph courtesy of Mrs. Eisenhower.\nand the Philippines, each move another rung\nassignment, which was as First Lady of the\na\nFORD\nGERALD\nLIBRARY\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER\nWhite House when Dwight D. Eisenhower\nformality which often surrounds such func-\nwas elected President of the United States in\ntions as state dinners and official receptions.\n1953. It is seldom that a First Lady has been\nThe Eisenhowers spend as much leisure time\nso warmly welcomed by the American people.\nas possible at their Gettysburg farm.\nAfter years of deliberately choosing to stay in\nPerhaps Mrs. Eisenhower's outstanding\nthe background, Mrs. Eisenhower found her-\ncharacteristic is her femininity, which is evi-\nself in the full glare of the spotlight, and she\ndenced in her love of home, her devotion to\nreacted with the poise and dignity of one\nher family, and her interest in clothes. Her\nwell suited to the position. Her genuine lik-\ndeep blue eyes, brown hair arranged with the\ning for people and her evident enjoyment of\nnow famous \"Mamie bangs,\" and vivid smile\nthe many social and official obligations en-\nhave become as well known to the American\ndeared her to the public. Her friendly per-\npublic as her husband's familiar smile.\nsonality and informality help to dispel the\nDRESS OF MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER\nFirst Lady of the White House, 1953-\nMrs. Eisenhower's first inaugural ball\nbox tooled in gold with the words \"Mamie\ngown was made by the New York designer\nDoud Eisenhower, January 20, 1953,\" in-\nNettie Rosenstein and purchased through\nscribed on it.\nNeiman-Marcus of Dallas. It is of peau-de-\nThe complete ensemble of dress, accesso-\nsoie, Renoir pink with a mauve undertone,\nries, and jewelry was presented to the public\nembroidered with over 2,000 pink rhine-\nfor the first time when Mrs. Eisenhower\nstones. The dress has matching taffeta and\nopened the First Ladies Hall on May 24,\ncrinoline petticoats under the bouffant skirt.\n1955. The ensemble is exhibited in the pe-\nThe long pink gloves and shoes are of match-\nriod setting that represents the East Room of\ning fabric. The evening bag, also designed\nthe White House as it has looked during\nby Nettie Rosenstein, is of matching pink silk\nmost of the twentieth century. The soft pink\nfabric on a silver frame and is solidly en-\ncolor of the dress looks especially attractive\ncrusted with 3,456 pink rhinestones, pink\nagainst the white and gold color scheme that\npearls, and beads.\npredominates in the room.\nWith the dress Mrs. Eisenhower wore cos-\ntume jewelry designed and made for her by\nTrifari. The triple-strand choker necklace is\nof simulated Orientique pearls interspersed\nREFERENCES:\nwith round brilliants that are called rondels.\nHATCH, ALDEN: Red Carpet for Mamie.\nMrs. Eisenhower prefers button earrings, and\nNew York, 1954.\nthese are fashioned like snowflakes. The\nBRANDON, DOROTHY: Mamie Doud Eisen-\nbracelet is a matching piece. The set was\nhower, A Portrait of a First Lady. Garden\npresented to her in a satin-lined white-kid\nCity, New York, 1954.\nFURD UNITED\nTHE GOWN OF MRS. JOHN F. KENNEDY\nas displayed in the\nUnited States National Museum\nSmithsonian Institution\nBy MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR\n[Supplement to \"The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House\" by\nMargaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.]\nTHE\nINSTITUTIONAL DIF INSION SE:\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\n1963\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY\nJACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY\n[ACQUELINE LEE BOUVIER was born on\nIn Washington Jacqueline attended Holton\nJuly 28, 1930, in Southampton, Long Is-\nArms for two years; then at the age of fifteen\nland, N.Y., the first child of John Vernon\nshe went to Miss Porter's School at Farming-\nBouvier III and his attractive wife, Janet\nton, Connecticut. She made her debut in the\nLee Bouvier. Mr. Bouvier was a member of\nsummer of 1948, the year she graduated from\nthe New York Stock Exchange, and he and\nMiss Porter's, and was honored with the title\nhis wife lived in New York in the winter and\nof Debutante of the year.\nLong Island in the summer.\nIn the fall she entered Vassar College. The\nJacqueline's formal education began when\nnext summer she made the Grand Tour and\nshe was sent to Miss Chapin's School, a New\ndiscovered the charms of Europe. In fact, she\nYork private school where she received a\nwas so delighted with her experiences that\ngood basic education. Throughout her school\nshe determined to spend her junior year of\ndays Jacqueline was an exceptionally bright\ncollege studying in France at the Sorbonne.\nstudent. She learned to read before she was six\nThe year she spent there living with a French\nyears old, and her retentive memory and the\nfamily was to have a great influence on her\nease with which she absorbed knowledge,\nlife. It gave her a great sympathy for the\nespecially of those subjects in which she was\npeople of foreign countries, especially the\ninterested, made her stand out from her group\nFrench, and broadened her cultural tastes and\nin each successive step of her education. Side\ninterests far beyond those of the average\nby side with her intellectual development\nAmerican girl of her age.\nwere her intense interest and increasing pro-\nThe next year Jacqueline continued her\nficiency in horsemanship. Under her mother's\ncollege work at George Washington Univer-\nexpert guidance she began to ride almost as\nsity, and it was during this year that she won\nsoon as she could walk, and at a very young\nVogue magazine's nation-wide Prix de Paris\nage she was an active and competent par-\ncontest which offered the winner a six months'\nticipant in the many horse shows which were\njob on Vogue in Paris and a similar time at\nimportant to the social life of the Long Island\nthe New York editorial offices. She declined\ncommunity.\nthe prize because it meant still more time\nEven during these early years Jacqueline's\naway from home.\ninterest in the arts was evident. She began to\nIn 1952 Jacqueline became inquiring\nwrite poetry and short stories, which she\nphotographer on the Washington Times\nillustrated with her own imaginative draw-\nHerald newspaper. The job required skill with\nings. Her interest in the dance was fostered\na professional camera, which Jacqueline soon\nby ballet lessons and a library on the subject\nacquired, and an ability to stimulate opinions\nwhich she had started when she was very\non topical questions from persons of every\nyoung.\nage and walk of life on the local Washington\nIn 1942 Jacqueline's mother married Hugh\nscene.\nBOUVIER KENNEDY\nD. Auchincloss, and their winter home be-\nIn June 1951 Jacqueline met Senator John\nPhotograph by Mark Shaw; courtesy of the White\ncame a handsome estate named Merrywood,\nF. Kennedy of Massachusetts at a dinner party.\nHouse.\nlocated in Virginia across the Potomac from\nShe was then twenty-two and the Senator\nWashington, with summers spent at Ham-\nwas thirty-five. Despite their mutual interest\nmersmith Farm in Newport, Rhode Island.\nin each other, their courtship was complicated\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY\nby the busy careers in which they were in-\nwho is serving at a time of tense international\ndividually involved. More than two years\ncrises. Her interest in the arts has inspired an\nlater their large wedding took place at New-\nattention to cultural matters never before ex-\nport on September 13, 1953.\nperienced at the national level. She has de-\nAfter her marriage Jacqueline Kennedy\nvoted a great part of her time and energy to\nadapted herself to the new role of being the\nthe interests of young people and the en-\nwife of one of the Nation's youngest and most\ncouragement of the arts. As First Lady, she\nenergetic political figures. Their first child,\nhas personally arranged for visiting heads of\nCaroline, was born in 1957, and the second,\nstate to be entertained in the White House\nJohn, Jr., was born after John Kennedy's\nwith programs presented by the finest per-\nelection to the Presidency in 1960.\nformers. Noteworthy too is her continuing\nWith the inauguration of President John\npersonal effort to make the White House a\nF. Kennedy in 1961, Jacqueline Bouvier\nmuseum of history and decorative arts as well\nKennedy stepped into the most difficult career\nas a family residence of elegance and charm.\nof the many which have already enriched her\nDespite her many private and public in-\nlife. To the role she has brought beauty, in-\nterests Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy today still\ntelligence, and taste. Her knowledge of lan-\nconsiders her role as wife and mother the\nguages and appreciation of world cultures\nmost important of her many obligations.\nhave been an invaluable asset to a First Lady\nDRESS OF JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY\nFirst Lady of the bite House, 1961-\nThe white silk dress which Jacqueline Ken-\ncovering it puffs out like a cloud at the hip-\nnedy wore to the inaugural ball on January\nline.\n20, 1961, was a striking complement to her\nWith the dress Mrs. Kennedy wore a floor-\ndark hair and eyes and her slim, youthful\nlength cape of the same silk peau d'ange\nfigure. The dress was made by designer Ethel\nveiled with a triple layer of silk chiffon,\nFrankau of the Custom Salon, Bergdorf\nwhich is fastened at the neck with an em-\nGoodman, of New York City, based on ideas\nbroidered frog on the military collar.\nand sketches from Mrs. Kennedy. It is made\nHer costume was completed with twenty\nof white peau d'ange (a very sheer silk, the\nbuttons, white, glacé kid gloves, and white\nFrench name of which may literally be trans-\nsilk opera pumps with medium heels. With\nlated as \"angel's skin\") with a bodice em-\nthis ensemble Mrs. Kennedy wore handsome\nbroidered in silver thread which is veiled with\ndiamond pendant earrings.\na sheer white chiffon overblouse.\nThe dress has a very slim, floor-length skirt\nVIV\nmade of peau d'ange. The silk was veiled with\nREFERENCES:\nwhite chiffon giving it a soft shimmering ef-\nfect. The collarless, sleeveless blouse, richly\nTHAYER, MARY VAN RENSSELAER, Jacque-\nline Bouvier Kennedy. New York, 1961.\nembroidered in metallic silver and brilliants,\nContemporary newspaper and magazine arti-\nis fitted, but the transparent full overblouse\ncles.\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT LYNDON B. JOHNSON\nCLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) TAYLOR JOHNSON\nWhen Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson became First Lady of the United States\nin 1963, she told reporters that her role \"must emerge in deeds and\nnot in words\" During her administration, the \"deeds\" prompted many\nwords to describe the petite brunette First Lady in varying ways such\nas \"The Great Society's most effective translator\", \"America's Green\nThumb\", and \"the symbol of the beautification movement\". Warm,\nhuman, and compassionate are phrases that highlighted the descriptions\nof Mrs. Johnson.\nThis is the Mrs. Johnson who emerged through speeches, tree-plantings,\nhostessing Heads of State or youth groups at the White House, and some\nhalf a dozen trips on her own each year, into various parts of the\ncountry to urge Americans to make their land more attractive and liveable.\nBy serving as Honorary Chairman of Project Headstart, she demonstrated\nher deep concern with the needs of the small children of the nation. When\nthe President urged Americans to rally behind a national program of\nconservation and beauty, Mrs. Johnson organized a Committee for a\nMore Beautiful Capital, an example for civic beautification committees\n1\nthroughout the land.\nTo promote one of the President's important objectives -- a greater\nrole for women -- she encouraged women to lend a hand in shaping world\nunderstanding. She worked to define the role of women today which she\nconsidered to be \"the right to participate fully -- whether in jobs,\nprofessions, or the political life of the community\". She felt that her\nClaudia Taylor Johnson\n-2-\nown role was to be preeminently a woman, a wife, a mother, a\nthinking citizen.\nMrs. Johnson was born in Karnack, Texas, on December 22, 1912,\nthe daughter of Thomas Jefferson Taylor, a small town merchant-landowner,\nand Minnie Patillo Taylor. The pages of history may list her as\nClaudia Alta Taylor, but the First Lady became universally known as\n\"Lady Bird\" or simply \"Bird\", a name given to her as a child. Mrs. Johnson\nreceived a Bachelor of Arts on 1933 from the University of Texas and\na Bachelor of Journalism in 1934. Shortly thereafter, she met Lyndon\nBaines Johnson, Secretary to Texas Congressman Richard Kleberg, and\nbecame his bride on November 17, 1934. She was quickly introduced into\nthe ways of Washington life and spent the next 26 years in the public\neye as the wife of a Congressman, Senator, and Vice-President. Two\ndaughters, Lynda Bird and Luci Baines were born during those early years\nin Washington. Mrs. Johnson entered the White House with a long record\nof having been a partner in the political life of her husband. The two\nJohnson daughters were married during their father's Administration with\nLynda's marriage to Charles S. Robb taking place in the East Room of the\nWhite House. Mrs. Johnson left the White House in 1969 and moved back\nto the LBJ ranch in Johnson City, Texas with her husband. There she devotes\nher time to her home, the Johnson Library and to her financial interest\nin the television business. Her first task on leaving the White House\nwas to work on a book about her years spent there which is titled\nWhite House Diary. It was published in 1970.\nLeaflet 72-29\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D.C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nCLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) TAYLOR JOHNSON\nFirst Lady, 1963 - 1969\nThe inaugural ball gown worn by Mrs. Johnson on January 20, 1965,\nis made of jonquil yellow double woven satin. The gown, cut with\nclassic simplicity was designed by John Moore, the American couturier,\nand was bought through Neiman-Marcus of Texas. The coat, designed\nto be worn with the dress, is of matching fabric and has a standing\ncollar and three-quarter length sleeves trimmed with natural sable\ncuffs. With the gown Mrs. Johnson wore yellow satin pumps, long\nwhite gloves and a single strand of pearls and she carried an envelope\nhandbag of the dress fabric.\nLeaflet 72-35\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nDRESS OF PATRICIA RYAN NIXON\nFirst Lady, 1969 -\nOn January 20, 1969, Mrs. Richard M. Nixon attended the\nInaugural Ball wearing a mimosa silk satin gown with a long-\nsleeve bolero jacket. The gown has a bell-shaped skirt, a\nsleeveless bodice, and a small stand-up collar and narrow\ncummerbund. The jacket, collar and cummerbund are all heavily\nembroidered with Byzantine scrolls of gold and silver bullion\nand embellished with hand-set Austrian crystal jewels.\nThe gown was designed by Karen Stark of Harvey Berin. To\ncomplete the ensemble, Mrs. Nixon wore matching silk shoes,\nforearm length gloves, and carried a small matching box handbag.\nLeaflet 72-36\nSmithsonian Institution\nA Bibliography From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nSELECTED READINGS ON THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nBrown, Margaret W., The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House,\nWashington, 1952. (This is the Smithsonian Institution's own publication\nabout the famous collection of gowns. Each of the gowns is described\nin detail and illustrated in color. Also included are a short biography\nand a picture of each First Lady.) (OUT OF PRINT)\nBassett, Margaret, Profiles and Portraits of American Presidents and Their\nWives, Bond Wheelwright Co., Freeport, Me., 1969.\nHolloway, Laura C., The Ladies of the White House, Funk & Wagnalls,\nNew York, 1886.\nJensen, Amy LaFollette, The White House and Its Thirty-five Families,\nMcGraw-Hill, New York, 1970.\nMelick, Arden Davis, Wives of the Presidents, Hammond, Inc.,\nNew Jersey, 1972.\nSadler, 1948. Christine, America's First Ladies, Hastings House, New York,\nBOOKLETS:\nThe White House: An Historic Guide. Published by the White House\nHistorical Association, 1634 I Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20006\nThe Living White House. Published by the White House Historical\nAssociation.\nALSO:\nThe First Ladies Hall. Published by the\nSmithsonian Institution Press, Publications\nDistribution Section, Washington, D.C., 1973.\n($1.50)\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nTHE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nIN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY\nThe Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is\none of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and\nTechnology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's\nwith Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited\ncitizens of Washington, D.C. The first dress received for the collection\nwas the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft, the presiding First\nLady, who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their\ndescendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses\nwere soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a\ndress representing the administration of every past President of the\nUnited States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each\nFirst Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves\nare exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces\nare all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied\nfrom a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting\nappearance to the entire group.\nThe collection is installed in a series of eight period settings\nthat give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of\nsurroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains\ndresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles\nin White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are\nshown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the\nWhite House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen-\ntation of the changes in American period costume from the administration\nof President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it\nis of great interest to students of costume design.\nThe collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted\nas hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives.\nIt was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances\ndid not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that\na relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President.\nThere are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were\nnot available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later\nadministrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.\nLeaflet 73-3\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN\nInformation From the\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nWASHINGTON, D. C. 20560\nINSTITUTION\nPHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nProcessing fees for black and white photographs are listed on\nthe attached photographic services information sheet. The fee\nfor color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with\na $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides\nwith a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please\nrefer all questions concerning photographic orders to the\nPhotographic Services Division.\nDress worn by:\nNegative No.\nSlide No.\nMartha Washington (Mrs. George Washington)\n57614\n72-2401\nAbigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams)\n57615\n72-2402\nShawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thomas\nRandolph), daughter of President Thomas Jefferson\n57616\n72-2403\nDolley Madison (Mrs. James Madison)\n57617\n72-2404\nElizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. James Monroe) Courtesy of the\nPresident James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va\n57618\n72-2405\nMarie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur),\ndaughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the\nPresident James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va.\n57619\n72-2406\nLouisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams)\n57620\n72-2407\n*Emily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson), niece of\nPresident Andrew Jackson\n57621\n72-2408\nSarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr.), wife of\nadopted son of President Andrew Jackson\n57622\n72-2409\nAngelica Singleton Van Buren (Mrs. Abram Van Buren),\ndaughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren\n57623\n72-2410\n*Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), hostess for\nPresident William Henry Harrison\n57624\n72-2411\nJulia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. John Tyler)\n57625\n72-2412\n*Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk)\n57626\n72-2413\nBetty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of\nPresident Zachary Taylor\n57627\n72-2414\nAbigail Powers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore)\n57628\n72-2415\nJane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Franklin Pierce)\n57629\n72-2416\n-2-\nPHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS OF DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE\nDress worn by:\nNegative No.\nSlide No.\nHarriet Lane, niece of President James Buchanan\n57630\n72-2417\nMary Todd Lincoln (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln)\n57631\n72-2418\nMartha Johnson Patterson (Mrs. David T. Patterson),\ndaughter of President Andrew Johnson\n57632\n72-2419\n*Julia Dent Grant (Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant)\n57633\n72-2420\nLucy Webb Hayes (Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes)\n57634\n72-2421\n*Lucretia R. Garfield (Mrs. James A. Garfield)\n57635\n72-2422\nMary Arthur McElroy (Mrs. John McElroy), sister\nof President Chester Arthur\n57636\n72-2423\nRose Cleveland, sister of President Grover Cleveland\n57637\n72-2424\n*Caroline Scott Harrison (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison)\n57638\n72-2425\n*Mary Harrison McKee (Mrs. James McKee), daughter of\nPresident Benjamin Harrison\n57639\n72-2426\nFrances Folsom Cleveland (Mrs. Grover Cleveland)\n57640\n72-2427\n*Ida Saxton McKinley (Mrs. William McKinley)\n57641\n72-2428\n*Edith Carow Roosevelt (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt)\n57642\n72-2429\n*Helen Herron Taft (Mrs. William Howard Taft)\n57643\n72-2430\nEllen Axson Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson I)\n57644\n72-2431\nEdith Bolling Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson II)\n57645\n72-2432\nFlorence Kling Harding (Mrs. Warren G. Harding)\n57646\n72-2433\nGrace Goodhue Coolidge (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge)\n57647\n72-2434\nLou Henry Hoover (Mrs. Herbert Hoover)\n57648\n72-2435\n*Anna Eleanor Roosevelt (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt)\n57649\n72-2436\n*Bess Wallace Truman (Mrs. Harry S. Truman)\n57650\n72-2437\n*Mamie Doud Eisenhower (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower)\n57651\n72-2438\n*Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (Mrs. John F. Kennedy)\n57652\n72-2439\n*Lady Bird Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson)\n57653\n72-2440\n*Patricia Ryan Nixon (Mrs. Richard M. Nixon)\n73315\n72-2441\n--Compiled by the Division of Political History,\nThe National Museum of History and Technology,\nSmithsonian Institution\nWashington, D.C. 20560\n*Inaugural dresses\nLeaflet 73-1\nSmithsonian Institution\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nSIFL-318a\nRev. 2-17-76\nOffice of Printing and Photographic Services\nCustomer Services Branch\nWashington, D.C. 20560\nPhotographic Policies and Charges\nEffective March 1, 1976\nThe Customer Services Branch of the Smithsonian's Office of Printing and Photographic Services pro-\nvides the public with the opportunity to purchase Smithsonian Institution photographs that have been approved\nby curatorial units. If the picture you need is not already in its negative library, items in the Smithsonian\ncollections, with the approval of the responsible curatorial unit, often may be photographed to your requirements.\nDELIVERY. Photographs normally are not kept in stock. They are printed to fill specific orders and thus\ncannot be sent on approval. Although every effort will be made to complete your order promptly, the Smith-\nsonian's own photographic requirements may take precedence. At least four weeks should be allowed for\ndelivery. Color, special photography, and large orders may require longer.\nREPRODUCTION RIGHTS. Photographs supplied may not be reproduced without specific permission from\nthe Smithsonian Institution. If you anticipate publishing or other commercial use of Smithsonian supplied\nphotographs, request a copy of Smithsonian Institution form letter, SIFL-2940-A, \"Reproduction Terms and\nFees,\" and form, SI-2940, \"Permission Request.\"\nRESTRICTIONS and LIMITATIONS. 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You will be notified prior to work being performed if\nour estimate exceeds this amount.\nPhotographer's rate per hour or fraction thereof\n$15.00\n(Payment of the labor rate does not grant you exclusive rights or automatic\nreproduction privileges.)\nForm SI-318 Rev. 11-26-73\nCustomer, complete only Section C of this form; please type or print-write numbers carefully.\nSECTION A\nSI Curatorial or\nOrganization use only\nName\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nCost\nControl\nDept\nCenter #\nPHOTO ORDER\nMuseum\nFor Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and\nCaptions required:\nYes\nNo\nPhotographic Services\nComments:\nSmithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560\nSECTION B\nSI ACCOUNTING DIV USE ONLY\nSECTION C\nCUSTOMER REQUEST\n$\nRec'd by\nDate\nComments:\nShip the below order to me at:\nOrganization or firm\nName of individual\nNOTE: Reproduction rights-Photographs and\nStreet Address\nmaterials on this order may not be reproduced\nwithout prior permission from the SMITHSONIAN\nCity\nState\nZip\nINSTITUTION.\nCountry\nPlease supply the following information: Glossy prints are standard-check here if matte is desired\nThe materials and services\nrequested on this order are for reproduction or resale-Yes\nNo\nIf Section A of this form has not been completed please\nfurnish the following information: Negative numbers and information on this order were obtained from\nNOTE: This order form will be returned with your completed order. Additional information concerning your completed order\nwill be found in Section E below. Information on policies and charges are contained in forms SI-318A and SIFL-2940-A.\nNEGATIVE/SLIDE\nCOL #1 X COL 2 If COL 3\nCOL 4\nLINE\nNUMBER\nDESCRIPTION\nSIZE\nNo of\nPrice per\nTotal\nQuantity\nprints\nprint\nPrice\nDiscount\n1\n2\n3\nthis Moisten and\n4\n5\npayable SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\n6\n7\n8\nopew\n9\n10\n11\n12\n13\n14\nA\nTotal Col #1 (total number of prints ordered)\nB\nTotal Col #3 (total amount of order)\n$\nc\nTotal Col #4 (total discount based on quantity of prints per line Item)\n$\nD\nEducational discount\n$\nE\nSelect larger of allowable discount as shown on Line c or D (not both) and enter\n$\nF\nNet amount due (Line B minus E) Make check payable to the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\n$\nSECTION D\nCustomer Service Branch\nSECTION E\nOPPS processing use only\nAdvice to customer regarding completed order\nAmount rec'd\n$\nDate rec'd OPPS\nCSB-OPPS Job Number\nCost of order\n$\nCompleted order inspected by\nDifference\n$\nCompleted order forwarded to: Customer\nUnit\nDate\nPlease remit amount shown as difference above Refund as shown above as differ-\nNOTES:\nence will be mailed to you O. Your order is complete except as noted. When corre-\nsponding with us concerning this order please refer to our CSB-OPPS job number\nshown in this section.\nSmithsd ajan Institution\nino THE\nFOLD ON THIS LINE 4th\nFROM:\nPLEASE\nName\nPLACE\nStreet\nSTAMP\nCity\nHERE\nState\nZip\nCountry\nTO:\nFOL D ON THIS LINE 2nd\nSection M\nSMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION\nFOLD ON THIS LINE 1st\nWASHINGTON, D.C. 20560\nUSA\nExpedite:\nPhotographic Order\nFOLD ON THIS LINE 3rd"
}