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Source Description

The robe is embroidered on the back with clouds and paired phoenixes (associated with female members of the imperial family). Single phoenixes and clouds occur at the shoulders. On the front, fragments of another large pair of phoenixes remain. The birds and clouds are set against a scrolling vine pattern embroidered with gold thread, of which only the gold leaf remains. The design was drawn and then embroidered with silk and gold threads on lengths of fabric (gauze backed with silk) before they were cut and seamed. The robe was then lined with silk batting between the layers for warmth. Toward the end of the Liao dynasty, rules for wearing Khitan-style dress (overlapping toward the left) became increasingly relaxed. This may explain the robe's front overlap toward the right, which accords with Chinese custom.

Scholar Source Context

Document identity
localId
158153
label
Woman's Robe
core
obj
dtoType
object
pageCount
1
Source metadata
id
158153
contentType
object
title
Woman's Robe
description
The robe is embroidered on the back with clouds and paired phoenixes (associated with female members of the imperial family). Single phoenixes and clouds occur at the shoulders. On the front, fragments of another large pair of phoenixes remain. The birds and clouds are set against a scrolling vine pattern embroidered with gold thread, of which only the gold leaf remains. The design was drawn and then embroidered with silk and gold threads on lengths of fabric (gauze backed with silk) before they were cut and seamed. The robe was then lined with silk batting between the layers for warmth. Toward the end of the Liao dynasty, rules for wearing Khitan-style dress (overlapping toward the left) became increasingly relaxed. This may explain the robe's front overlap toward the right, which accords with Chinese custom.
date
907–1125
rights
CC0
rightsUri
CC0
language
en
wikidata
Q79975913
genreSpecific
Garment
imageCount
1
source
import
dimensionsRaw
Overall: 130 x 177 cm (51 3/16 x 69 11/16 in.)
cul
China, Liao dynasty (907-1125)
accession
1995.2
Source extras
tec
Silk and gold thread: embroidery on silk gauze ground; silk lining, silk batting
tombstone
Woman's Robe, 907–1125. China, Liao dynasty (907-1125). Silk and gold thread: embroidery on silk gauze ground; silk lining, silk batting; overall: 130 x 177 cm (51 3/16 x 69 11/16 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund, 1995.20
collection
Textiles
citations
citation
Wardell, Anne E., "Royal Regalia", Cleveland Museum of Art. <em>Cleveland Art: The Cleveland Museum of Art Members Magazine</em>. Vol. 35 no. 08, October 1995
page_number
Mentioned & reproduced: p. 7
citation
Watt, James C. Y., Anne E. Wardwell, and Morris Rossabi. When silk was gold: Central Asian and Chinese textiles. 1997.
page_number
pp. 176-179, color reproduction, pp. 176, 177; detail reproduction color p. 179
citation
Shea, Eiren. "The Spread of Gold Thread Production in the Mongol Period: A Study of Gold Textiles in the China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou." J<em>ournal of Song-Yuan Studies</em> 50 (2021).
page_number
p. 381-415, illus. p. 366-72.
creditline
Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund
updatedAt
2026-05-29 08:13:02.289000
sourceId
158153
dept
Textiles
coll
Textiles
med
Silk and gold thread: embroidery on silk gauze ground; silk lining, silk batting
thumbnail_url
image_url
Single page context
seq
1
pageIndex
0
type
photo
mediaId
62858fa5900d7934